I wonder if it is possible to find a man in our country who grows tulips for his beloved with his own hands? It's about not about the flowers in the beds, which the husband planted several years ago, when his wife instructed him to do so. This question about tulips in pots on the window, grown specially for March 8th. We hope that after carefully reading this article, many men will try to conduct a flower experiment. If they strictly follow the advice, then their loved ones will receive the most unusual and beautiful gift for the holiday in the form of luxurious tulips.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - selection of planting material
If you have a summer house, then when digging tulips from the ground, choose the largest and strongest bulbs. Their size should be at least 3.5 cm. Dig up tulips in July, when the leaves of the plants are completely dry. Dry the selected bulbs under a canopy and then transfer them to dark room with a temperature of 18-20 degrees.
You can replace digging and drying home tulips by purchasing seed material from a specialized store. Ask the seller to tell you which varieties are best for indoor growing. You can also order bulbs through the online store. Pay attention to the varieties of tulips: Abu Hassan (red-brown), Hibernia (white), Parade - Record (bright red), Aristocoat (bluish with a white border along the edges of the leaves), Maya (yellow). These flowers are considered the best for early spring forcing and are resistant to diseases.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - cooling the bulbs
At the beginning of September, move the bulbs to a place where the humidity and temperature are kept at this level: 85-90% and +5 degrees. An excellent solution in this case would be to place the bulbs on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. Here planting material keep for 30 to 35 days. Thin nylon socks or cut pieces of tights are suitable for storing in the refrigerator - the bulbs will “breathe” in them.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - planting bulbs
At the beginning of October, plant the bulbs in the ground.
- Select pots or containers. Keep in mind that the bulbs will need to be planted 1-2cm apart.
- Place 1 cm of drainage (small pebbles) at the bottom of the pot, and 3 cm of soil on it, which you prepare from a mixture of peat and coarse river sand(take equal amounts of sand and peat).
- Place the bulbs on the prepared cushion and lightly press them into the soil. Make sure that the bulbs do not touch each other.
- Lightly water the bulbs room temperature. Its approximate consumption is 50 ml per onion.
- Cover the moistened bulbs completely with coarse sand.
- Make a solution of 1 liter of water and 1 g of calcium nitrate (sold in garden stores). With this solution, thoroughly pour the sand with the bulbs inside.
- Move pots or containers to a dark, cool, damp place. A basement with a temperature of +5 degrees and a humidity of 85% is suitable. If you don't have a basement, place the pots on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.
- Check the soil periodically for dryness. If the sand is too loose, lightly moisten it plain water, but do not overfill. At large quantities Bulbs may rot in water.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - forcing flower stalks
Sometime in early January you will see tender, pale green sprouts in the pot. At this time, keep the tulips in the refrigerator and water them periodically. Within a month, the sprouts should grow to 3-4 cm. Do not be alarmed by their pallor - this is due to the lack of adequate lighting.
On February 4-7, remove containers or pots with sprouts from the basement or refrigerator and place them in a bright (eastern) window. Keep the temperature in the room at 17-18 degrees. Monitor soil moisture and active sun. Water once a week and with a very small amount of water. Protect plants from the sun using a protective screen made of thick white paper.
If the window on which you placed the tulips faces north or west, then additionally illuminate the plants with a special phytolamp.
How to grow tulips by March 8th - some useful tips
To make your first experience of growing tulips on a window successful, remember the following:
- Do not feed tulips with any additional fertilizer. It is enough for them that they received their portion of calcium nitrate when planting the bulbs.
- Be sure to keep the bulbs in the cold for at least one month (see point 2). If you shorten this time, the flower stalks will grow very low and the buds will become small.
- Always protect plants from direct sun rays. At the stage of leaf growth, the sun can damage the plant by producing a lot of leaves, but the bud will not grow. At the stage of bud development, the sun will harm the tulip because it will bloom very early, i.e. The heat will cause the flower to bloom prematurely.
If you follow all the rules, beautiful and strong tulips will bloom for Women's Day. In the same way as tulips, you can grow other bulbous plants. These are hyacinths, daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops.
Many people are engaged in forcing tulips by March 8th professionally - you've probably heard of such a business. Indeed, if you plant bulbs of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths in pots 6-10 weeks in advance and keep them in a cool and dark place, they will grow faster than their counterparts in open ground. This way you can predict forcing at home by February 14, March 8 and Easter. This is your personal spring, which has come long before its due date.
Materials:
- Bulbs of hyacinths, daffodils and other early flowering plants from garden center(or prepared in the fall on your site)
- Containers - anything will do, from enamel bowls to jam jars or small galvanized buckets
- Universal primer or primer for bulbs
- Fine gravel or broken pieces clay pot
- Black trash bag, burlap or old cloth
- Twigs and twine to tie up the stems
- You will also need a dark, cool place where you place the containers with the bulbs.
Crocus, hyacinth, daffodil (eg miniature varieties like Tete-a-Tete, and taller early flowering varieties such as Paperwhite), miniature iris (eg Iris reticulata), mouse hyacinth (Muscari), Scilla siberica.
Snowdrops it is also possible to kick out early using this method. But it's better to spot a spot in your garden where groups of snowdrops have already taken root, and transplant a few into a container in the fall, rather than planting store-bought snowdrops, because the latter can take several years to take root and grow.
Choosing a container for bulbs
Jam jars are well suited for distillation. Glass allows you to see the roots and this will help tell you how the plants grow and how they absorb water. Clay pots always look great, especially old ones. If you are starting to plant by March 8, as a gift, the container better be new and attractive.
Plain white enamel bowls, dishes or cups are also good, but like jars, they do not have drainage holes. To prevent water from accumulating at the bottom of these containers, place a handful of fine gravel or a few pieces of broken clay pot in the bottom and try using special mineral fibers for bulbs instead of compost. The fibers perfectly absorb moisture and will not allow developing bulbs to rot.
- Place a layer of compost or mineral fibers for bulbs in the bottom of the container (on a layer of gravel or broken pot fragments if you are using them). Layer thickness - 4 cm for larger bulbs (daffodils and hyacinths), and 2–3 cm for small bulbs(snowdrops, crocuses or scylla).
- Place the bulbs on a layer of soil. You can place them quite close together to create a dense carpet of flowers, but try to make sure they don't touch each other as this can cause them to rot.
- Cover the tops of the bulbs with compost or mineral fibers for bulbs so that only their tops protrude slightly above the soil surface. Once the shoots emerge, it can be difficult to tell one variety from another, so label them immediately after planting.
- Place containers on a plastic or metal tray or individual trays and water until the soil is moist but not wet.
- Place the containers with the bulbs in a cool (+8-9°C) but dry place. Cover the pots with a large black garbage bag (don't wrap it), a rough canvas, or two or three layers of fabric so that the bulbs are not exposed to light.
- Check the bulbs about every week. If the compost or planting fiber is dry, water it a little. When the shoots grow 3–5 cm, you can move the containers to a bright, cool windowsill. Most bulbs need about 8-10 weeks in a dark, dry place. Daffodils will grow faster and may only take 5-7 weeks.
- After removing the covering material from the bulbs, do not immediately place them in a place that is too warm or brightly lit so that they can get used to the new conditions. To develop further, shoots during this period will need 6–8 hours of daylight.
- The bulbs will now grow quite quickly and the shoots may become too long. So tie up the shoots using twigs and twine, or carefully wrap the twine around a clump of leaves two or three times and tie the shoots together to provide support.
If forcing bulbs is too difficult or too time-consuming for you, there are other ways to decorate your home with spring flowers. If you bring home cut branches fruit trees, the heat will cause the flower buds on them to bloom earlier.
Materials:
- Secateurs or strong scissors
- Branches or stems with flower buds, cut from any varieties of cherry, plum or apple tree
- Newspaper (optional)
- Bathtub half filled with warm water (optional)
- Vases and jars in which you will place flowering branches
- It will be great if you notice a flowering plant near your home in the spring or autumn, because in winter it can be difficult to determine what is in front of you from the bare branches.
- Use pruning shears to cut a few branches from trees or shrubs.
- You can simply place the collected twigs in water and leave them in a warm, well-lit place. Depending on what stage of development they were in when you cut them, the buds will begin to open within one to two weeks.
- To speed up the process even more, fill the bathtub halfway with warm water, wrap the twigs in newspaper and place them in the bathtub. Leave the branches in warm water for 20–30 minutes, then remove them from the water and remove the newspaper. Lightly tap the cut ends of the branches with a large stone, small hammer, or other heavy object to force more of the vessels through which water circulates in the shoots (called xylems) to open up and absorb water from the vase.
- Place the vase in a warm, well-lit place, and within a few days your branch will bloom.
Forcing in pots lives for a few days, less than cut tulips or daffodils with hyacinths. Whatever bouquet you choose for March 8 flower shop, it will still be similar to others that your mother, sister, or friend will receive as a gift on March 8th.
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Girls, what to do with tulip bulbs? My husband bought several tulips with bulbs that I would like to keep for the dacha - some lilac ones with fringes at the tips and just huge yellow ones. To dry and put in the refrigerator? How much stem should I leave?
girls.. I want to give my friend a gift for her birthday - a bouquet of daffodils.. but bad luck - not Two weeks ago I was in Ikea, there were gorgeous pots with forced daffodils (also And in our Auchan there are baskets with 9 bulbs of double daffodils (these stalks are already so green ...
Good afternoon, I bought hyacinth bulbs. I want to receive flowers by March. Two weeks ago I was in Ikea, there were gorgeous pots with forcing daffodils (not yet. Last year my husband gave me a gift. I bought them for March 8th for myself and my daughter, and next year I would like them to bloom in the area.
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Needed for gifts at work, about 200 pots. We bought them in pots and bloomed at home for two weeks. Forcing bulbous plants at home. You can buy daffodil bulbs in almost any flower shop, there are many offers on the Internet.
I spilled it with epin the other day, the result is 0 so far. I also want to try planting this way, I just dug up the bulbs in this one. Plant the hyacinth bulb again in mid-autumn at the same time as the tulips - then it will bloom next spring.
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March 8 is coming soon, Gifts. - gatherings. Child from 3 to 7. Education, nutrition, daily routine, visits kindergarten and the relationship with OBI, the hyacinths in pots are just blooming, although by March 8th they will be there. For 49 rubles. very beautiful gift. well they...
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This means that the onion is enough big size to give good forcing in the spring, for example by March 8th. And in "VAZA" this was supposed to be in a pot. If you have questions, ask. The experience in forcing bulbs on March 8 is enormous.
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They grew beautifully and, just in time for Women's Day, revealed themselves in all their glory. So my question is, do you know whether tulips care when they are planted in a room? Those. If I plant them in October, for example, and place them in the window, is there a high probability that they...
Large bulbs are suitable for forcing. I planted it in December, and by March 8th my first yellow tulip bloomed. Forcing bulbs for Christmas. about tulips The actual forcing includes rooting of planted bulbs (about 15 days) and forcing (3 weeks).
Hyacinth is one of the best forcing bulbous plants. Blooms when forced in winter and early spring. Forcing hyacinths is also possible in special glasses of water in which a mixture of mineral fertilizers is dissolved.
In this article we continue to select potted plants for forcing by March 8th. You have already learned how to grow primroses, cinerarias, violas and daisies. But there is another luxurious potted plant that is ideal for forcing in a cold greenhouse - this is calceolaria. Because of the original flowers they call it shoes, people immediately pay attention to it. Growing calceolaria is fun, it grows well, and it can be transplanted without any fuss. She is in demand on the market; everyone likes her delicate, bright, unusual shoes. If you have never grown calceolaria from seeds for sale on March 8, try it, you will definitely succeed!
To prevent calceolaria from causing much trouble, you need to follow a few simple rules.
1. Remember - this shade-loving flower, she does not tolerate direct sunlight at all, but loves a bright location.
2. You should not keep blooming calceolaria in a room where the temperature is above 15 degrees. She needs coolness high temperatures the plant quickly ages and is attacked by pests.
3. You need to make sure there is enough water. If you grow calceolaria in an apartment or on a balcony, take care of the humidity and the plant will not shed buds, which it usually does when in a dry room. Place the pots on damp pebbles or expanded clay.
4. Calceolaria loves abundant watering, but make sure that the water from the hose does not get on the leaves, otherwise this will lead to various spots. She also does not tolerate stagnant moisture in pots. In a greenhouse, it is better to place calceolaria on capillary mats or on a moisture-absorbing bedding.
Sowing
Before sowing, we check the quality of the peat substrate. To do this, be sure to carry out a pH test for acidity - with a meter or litmus strips. For good growth plants, it should have an indicator of 5.5 - 6.5. To avoid fungal diseases at the initial stage of cultivation and damage to seedlings by scaricides, the soil can be heated. Pour some substrate onto a baking sheet and put it in the oven. Stir occasionally and check the temperature with your palm. As soon as you feel that it is hot enough, take out the baking sheet and pour the soil into a bucket, which we cover with a lid, wrap it up and leave it until the contents cool. After this, the substrate must be sifted, poured into a container, compacted a little and moistened from a spray bottle with a solution of Cultimar 3 ml per 1 liter of water. The seeds of calceolaria are very small, actually dust, for this it is better to mix them with dry sand or talcum powder and scatter them evenly over the soil. If you purchased dragees, spread them out and do not sprinkle them. Moisten the seeds or pills with a solution of Cultimar 3 ml per 1 liter of water and place the container in an incubator or cover with glass and place under a lamp in a bright, warm room. You can wrap it in film. For calceolaria to germinate, a temperature of +20 C is required; ventilate the crops several times a day and, if necessary, moisten them with water from a spray bottle.
Seedling care
Tiny seedlings appear in about 10–15 days and require careful care. Sprouts are easily washed out of the ground, so you need to water them carefully with a fine sprayer, try not to dry them out, but also don’t overly moisten them. After a couple of days, open and take the container to a bright, cool room.
In order for the seedlings to take root without loss, spray them with a solution of Cultifort Raiz 3 ml per 1 liter of water. It is designed to stimulate the root system and protect tender seedlings from fungal diseases.
After three days, spray with a solution of Foliquino 2 ml + BVC 2021 2 ml per 10 liters of water. This will promote the friendly growth of green mass in case of insufficient lighting and negative stress factors.
Picking
Calceolaria grows quickly, as soon as a couple of main leaves appear, you can plant them in 6 x 6 x 6 cassettes. It is better to use the substrate of the same composition as when sowing. Before picking, we spill the soil with a solution of Cultimar 3 ml per 1 liter of water and the next morning we plant one sprout per cell. At the end of the process, pour 3 ml of Cultimar solution per 1 liter of water under the spine, to which you can add 2 ml of the anti-stress stimulant Cultifort-AM 11%.
Caring for seedlings after picking
We place the cassettes on racks covered with moisture-absorbing fabric or on capillary mats and, at first, keep the temperature at + 18 C, at night - up to + 15 C. While the calceolaria is taking root, water it carefully at the root, without getting it on the leaves. As soon as it takes root and the roots appear in the holes on the bottoms of the cells, we wet only the litter. It will absorb as much moisture as it needs.
We periodically apply foliar fertilizing using a fine sprayer. effective drugs.
10 days after picking, spray with Cultimar solution 5 ml per 1 liter of water. This will ensure rapid and friendly growth of the vegetative mass of plants. In a short period of time it will relieve stress and activate the full absorption of nutrients.
After a week, pour a solution of Microvital L 2 ml per 10 liters of water into the root, you can add it to a drop if you have had drip irrigation. The drug has a long-lasting effect, during which nutrients are used by plants according to their needs.
7 days after feeding Microvital L we repeat foliar treatment solution of Cultimar preparations 5 ml + S Progen Growth 5 g per 1 liter of water.
Transshipment
Approximately one and a half to two months after picking, we transfer the grown plants into pots No. 10 or No. 12. It is advisable to use the substrate of the same composition as when sowing and the first picking. After transferring, pour 3 ml of Cultimar solution per 1 liter of water into the root. It will renew and stimulate root system.
After 7-10 days, treat the leaf with a solution of S Progen Growth 5 g per 1 liter of water. During this period, S Progen Growth will continue the development of green mass and increase the plants' resistance to root rot.
As they grow, the pots with calceolaria need to be moved apart so that they do not stretch out and the leaves do not touch each other, and once a week they should be sprayed with Cultinet 5 ml per 1 liter of water, to which you can add any insecticide, for example Vertimek or Teppeki. Preventative treatment should be carried out regularly, since calceolaria is a tasty morsel for aphids and whiteflies. And, as you know, it’s better to prevent it than to not know where to run later.
Stimulation
To lay many buds and to maintain a compact appearance, we carry out the first stimulation with a solution of the drug Floron 0.5 ml per 1 liter of water. We do this at night. After 7 days we repeat the treatment. This drug is a kind delicious compote for flowering plants, provoke and stimulate quality continuous flowering, stimulates the formation of flower buds. With its help, you can force any capricious plant to bloom, and at the same time it will expel buds throughout its entire life, and not for a certain period of time. 7 days after the second treatment with the Floron stimulator, spray the calceolaria with a solution of Cultifort-AM 11% 3 ml + Cultinet 3 ml per 1 liter of water. This will relieve stress after treatment with stimulants and at the same time protect your plants from pests.
Bloom
As soon as the buds appear, foliar feeding with a solution of Enermax 0.5 g per 1 liter of water is recommended. In three days we will foliar feeding solution of drugs S Progen Size 2 g + Brentax KCa 20 g per 1 liter of water. The first drug promotes luxurious and uniform flowering, the second prolongs flowering. In order for calceolaria to bloom profusely and for a long time, we reduce the temperature in the room to +14 C. We do not allow the substrate to dry out, but we also do not allow moisture to stagnate in the pots.
When sown in early September, calceolaria will bloom in early February (if sown in early September). The flowers bloom unevenly, starting from the crown and gradually covering the entire bush in tiers. At this stage, for a complete and abundant flowering, plants require a lot of useful microelements, so once every 7 days we fertilize with a solution of S Progen Size 2 g + Brentax KCa 20 g per 1 liter of water, carefully spraying on the leaves, avoiding contact with the flowers.
All fertilizers, stimulants, calceolaria seeds for cultivation by March 8, you can purchase from us in the online store www.site
If you have any questions, ask! We will be happy to answer them for you! Good luck!
Surely every gardener has at least once encountered callas that are grown as a potted plant.
Few people thought that it is possible to plant calla lilies in the garden, the main thing is to provide them with proper care.
How to grow callas in open ground
During flowering, calla lilies are quite beautiful. Each peduncle lives for a month.
If you decide to grow calla lilies, then provide enough space for them. Plants prefer open clearings, but in the heat of the day they need saving shade. It’s good if shrubs or trees grow nearby.
The soil for growing calla lilies is fertile. The soil, which is poor in composition, is enriched with humus and peat. Before planting, the soil must be drained, since plants do not tolerate stagnant moisture at the roots.
Among other things, calla lilies have their own characteristics that need to be taken into account when planting:
The rhizomes are planted shallowly, barely covered with soil, to avoid rotting;
Sprouts appear only after a month, callas take a long time to grow their root system;
The tubers of the plant are quite fragile and must be handled with care.
Grow callas in middle lane It’s not difficult for Russia, but for the winter the tubers must be dug up and stored in a cold place.
How to plant callas in the garden (photo)
Tubers are planted in open ground in the spring, when the threat of frost has passed. Autumn planting plants are not provided.
As a rule, callas are planted in mid-May, having previously prepared the tubers.
1. Planting material is kept in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes.
2. Dry the tubers and cut out all affected areas, including healthy tissue.
3. All sections are treated with brilliant green.
The pickled tubers are planted on a bed, which is first dug up with mineral fertilizers. The depth of planting of tubers is about 5-10 cm. Larger bulbs are buried deeper, and smaller ones are placed almost on the surface of the soil. The distance between plants in the flowerbed is 30 to 40 cm.
After planting calla lilies, be patient. Remember that the plant does not sprout for a long time until a good root system is formed. All this time there is no need to water the bed; the moisture that remains after planting will be enough.
There is another way to plant calla lilies, which is often used by gardeners. In mid-March, the tubers are planted in bowls and watered well. Any flower soil sold in stores will do. A month before planting the plants in the flowerbed, the pots are taken outside for hardening. Callas are replanted together with a lump of earth using the transshipment method.
How to care for calla lilies in the open ground
Caring for calla lilies is a breeze. All the plants need is watering and loose soil.
Water the flowers moderately but regularly. During the dry season, watering is increased. In addition, after each watering, the soil around the bush is carefully loosened, trying not to damage the roots.
Calla lilies are fertilized only if the soil on the site is poor. Mineral fertilizers are suitable for fertilizing, the solution of which is used to water the flowers once a month. If the holes were filled with fertilizers when planting, then there is no need to additionally feed the callas.
Rest period
In Russian conditions, callas are grown as annual plant, since they cannot tolerate harsh winters. Therefore, every autumn the tubers are dug up and stored until planting.
After flowering, the tubers are removed from the ground, washed well and dried in a ventilated area. At the same time, they try not to remove the leaves, since during this period the nutrients sink into the tubers. The tubers are dried for about 1.5 weeks, until the leaves themselves dry out and separate from the roots.
After 10-15 days, the tubers are inspected and damaged or diseased ones are removed. For the rest, small roots are cut off so that the tubers do not begin to germinate ahead of schedule. If children are formed, they are left together with the mother plant, without being separated.
Store the bulbs in a cool room where the temperature does not rise above +7C. If this condition is not met, then you can forget about the calla lilies blooming. Many gardeners store tubers in basement, but it must be dry. It is very important to monitor air humidity so that the plants do not start to grow or begin to rot. Inspect tubers regularly and select suspicious ones.
You can store rhizomes in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. First, each tuber is wrapped in paper and placed in a bag. The duration of the rest period is from 1.5 to 2 months.
Calla lily propagation
Callas reproduce by babies that form on the roots mother plant. They are carefully separated from the tubers and grown in a bowl or in a garden bed.
One tuber can produce up to 30 babies. They are separated and placed in bowls with loose soil. The depth of planting of children is 5-6 cm. They use nutritious soil, which is pre-mixed with mineral fertilizers.
After emergence, the nodules are planted at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. In the room where callas are grown, the temperature is maintained at 15-17 degrees. Young calla lilies are cared for in the same way as adult plants. Children water regularly, but little by little, and loosen the soil in the pot.
As soon as the callas grow and produce a second leaf, the plants are fed with complex fertilizers. They must contain nitrogen and potassium. The frequency of feeding is once a month. The first year young plants are grown in room conditions without a dormant period, and next summer the tubers are transferred to the standard scheme.
What variety of calla lilies should be planted on the site (photos of varieties)
Only three types of calla lilies are involved in the breeding of new varieties:
Ethiopian;
Remanna;
Elliott.
Ethiopian calla is a large rhizomatous plant that does not have a bulb. The height of the peduncle of this plant reaches 1 meter. The Ethiopian calla prefers moist soil; it does not have a pronounced dormant period and does not shed its leaves. Among this variety, the following varieties are the most popular:
Green goddess - plant height is about 90 cm, the cover is green;
Pearl is a low-growing variety that is easy to grow in pots;
Nikolay - a green blanket, large, up to 12 cm in diameter, peduncle height up to 1.5 meters.
Calla Rehmann - plant height barely reaches 70 cm. The peduncle cover is pale Pink colour With lilac shade. The underground part is represented by a tuber that resembles a gloxinia tuber. Calla sheds its leaves and requires a dormant period for regular flowering. Popular varieties:
Evening - a black and purple bedspread;
Indian summer - a garnet-colored blanket;
Chameleon is a peach-colored peduncle with golden tints.
Calla Eliotta - peduncle cover yellow color, large. The height of the plant is about 50 cm, the leaves are large, heart-shaped with specks. Varieties:
Vermeer - wavy peduncle cover of dark cherry color;
Yellow corner - bright plants, leaves with yellow specks;
Black-eyed beauty - lemon-colored blanket, speckled leaves.
Other types of calla lilies growing in wildlife not suitable for garden growing.
Calla plant (lat. Calla), or Zantedeschia (lat. Zantedeschia)- genus perennial plants family Araceae, or Aronicaceae. Calla flower grows in damp places South America and in Africa, from Nigeria to Tanzania. It is a relative of such a plant as calla lily, or marsh calla, the only representative of its genus, whose range is located in the Northern Hemisphere. Zantedeschia is sometimes called Ethiopian calla lily, or Richardia. The flower received the name “zantedeschia” from the German botanist Kurt Sprengel, who named it in honor of his friend the Italian botanist Giovanni Zantedeschi, but most often zantedeschia is still simply called calla lily. The attractiveness of this plant for gardeners is not only in its very large, showy leaves and unusual shape flower, but also that calla lilies can be grown both in the garden and at home, in a pot.
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Planting and caring for callas (in brief)
- Landing: tubers are planted in early May.
- Bloom: from June to early October.
- Excavation: in September.
- Storage: in an earthen coma in a dry room at a temperature of 5-7 ˚C.
- Lighting: in the morning there is bright light, in the afternoon there is light partial shade.
- The soil: well drained, fertile, pH slightly acidic to acidic.
- Watering: moderate, but regular, abundant in dry seasons.
- Feeding: Fertilizers are applied to the soil only during planting.
- Reproduction: vegetative, depending on the type - tubers or dividing the bush. Seed propagation is ineffective and unreliable.
- Pests: aphids, thrips, mole crickets, beetles and wireworms.
- Diseases: rhizoctonia, root rot, penicillosis, pythium, Erwinia group of bacteria.
- Properties: the plant contains poisonous alkaloids. The juice, if it comes into contact with the skin, causes irritation, and if it enters the body, it causes vomiting, numbness and convulsions.
Read more about growing calla lilies below.
Calla flowers - features
Growing calla lilies, like any other plant, requires following the rules of agricultural technology, but the main feature of these flowers is that they are grown and how garden callas- in courtyards, and in apartments, in pots, like indoor callas. But general rules Growing and caring for callas, no matter where they grow, there are still:
- callas require shallow planting, that is, the rhizomes are barely covered with soil to avoid rotting;
- What laymen call a calla flower is actually the covering leaf or spathe that wraps the spadix of the inflorescence. In fact, calla flowers are small and inconspicuous, although very fragrant;
- after planting, calla lilies do not sprout until they have formed their root system, so do not be nervous if there are no sprouts for a month;
- When digging up tubers, be careful: they are easily damaged;
- calla is a living barometer: droplets of water appear on its cover and the tips of its leaves before the rain, like tears;
- a pot for calla lilies, especially Ethiopian, is preferably porous so that it can evaporate excess moisture. In addition, Ethiopian calla loves privacy and does not tolerate neighbors in its own pot;
- each calla flower blooms for about a month;
- occasionally upper layer calla lilies in a pot should be carefully removed, trying not to damage the roots, and replaced with fresh nutrient substrate.
Growing garden calla lilies
Callas decorate the garden so much with their majestic flowers that many gardeners are happy to grow them on their farms. The clearings where calla lilies grow look like an Arabic ornamental painting: the rhizomes annually produce young shoots of leaves, and elegant arrow-peduncles rise among them...
In the photo: Purple callas
Callas prefer open, spacious areas and fertile soils, but it is advisable to shade them during the hottest hours of the day: in the scorching sun, the leaves wither, burn and dry out, so it is important that bushes or trees grow nearby, which will provide the callas with saving shade in the afternoon. The soil must be acidic or at least slightly acidic, it is required good drainage, because stagnation of water in the roots is detrimental to the plant.
The optimal composition of soil for calla lilies: earth, sand, peat and leaf humus in equal proportions.
Planting callas and caring for the garden
Planting calla lilies in spring
Garden callas are planted in early May. Pre-planting material is kept for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate, then carefully examined and, if necessary, rotten areas are cut out to healthy tissue, and the wounds are lubricated with brilliant green. A complex mixture is added to the soil on the site. mineral fertilizer at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m², the area is dug up. Then the tubers are immersed in prepared holes to a depth of 5-10 cm at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other (depending on the size of the bulb), buried, and the planting site is well watered.
Fertilize calla lilies with a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as Kemira-Lux. Apply fertilizer to the soil along with water every fifth watering of the plant.
In the photo: Pink calla
Calla lily propagation
Calla lilies are propagated by seeds (this method is unreliable, and you will have to wait a very long time for results), tubers and dividing the bush. Calla lilies are propagated by dividing the bush as follows: In the fall, when digging, the calla lily shoot with part of the rhizome is separated and transplanted into a pot with earth mixture, and in the spring they are transplanted into open ground. If only the Ethiopian calla and its varieties are propagated by dividing the bush, then the remaining callas are propagated by tubers: in the fall the tubers are dug up, stored for the whole winter, and in the spring they are planted in open ground.
In the photo: growing calla lilies at home
Callas after flowering
There are differences in caring for tuberous callas and rhizomatous callas. For Ethiopian calla, rhizomatous, the dormant period begins in the very heat - at this time growth slows down, then stops, the calla turns yellow... At this time, watering should be reduced, and the plant should be taken to the balcony or garden in a well-lit place where it is not drops of rain will come out. In the first half of July, the plant is taken out of the pot, all old leaves and shoots are removed and transplanted into a pot with a new nutrient mixture, placed in a bright place and they begin to water and feed the calla, preparing it for the next flowering. This is the cycle of rhizomatous potted calla lilies.
Garden calla lilies remain on the site until autumn; in September, the rhizomes are dug up and stored with a ball of earth in a cool, dry room with moderate, infrequent watering.
In the photo: Calla in a pot
After flowering, tuberous calla lilies gradually turn green and droop, the leaves turn yellow and dry. Garden tuberous callas are carefully dug up in the third decade of September, trying not to damage the tubers, freed from the soil, washed and kept for a couple of weeks at a temperature of 5-10 ºC, waiting for the beneficial nutrients to pass from the leaves to the tubers. After this, dead leaves are easily removed.
In our latitudes, callas are not left in the ground for the winter. When the leaves die, they are removed, the tubers are washed well, kept for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate, washed again and placed in a dark, dry place to dry, then the tubers are stored, packed in paper bags, at a temperature of 5-7 ºC: in a city apartment for this Vegetable drawers in the refrigerator are suitable.
In the photo: calla tubers
Rhizomes Ethiopian calla lilies, if you do not have the opportunity to keep it in a cool room after digging, dry it slightly and, after cutting off the leaves, store it in the same way as tubers.
Don’t forget to check weekly how the tubers and rhizomes of calla lilies are feeling: whether they have begun to dry out and wrinkle from too much warm temperature or, conversely, rot from high humidity.
If you grew calla lilies in a pot, then during the dormant period you can not remove them from the pot, but simply take them out onto a cool veranda or loggia. If you, without giving your beauty a couple of months to rest, continue to water and in every possible way provoke further growth, you can deplete the calla and it will not bloom.
Types and varieties of calla lilies
There are only eight species of calla lilies in the genus, but only three are grown in culture, and they also served as material for breeders to develop different varieties:
These are tall white callas (peduncles up to a meter or more in height), the underground part is a rhizome, and not a bulb, like other species. Ethiopian kala is moisture-loving; it does not shed its large, shiny green leaves even during the dormant period. The most popular varieties:
- Nicholas– the length of the peduncle is up to one and a half meters, the leaves are dark green, arrow-shaped, the petioles are long. The blanket is green below and outside, diameter 8-12 cm;
- Pearl – low-growing variety, height up to half a meter, suitable for growing in pots;
- Schone Zweibrückerin– the length of the peduncle is up to 1 m, the leaves are heart-shaped, light, the bottom of the spathe is dark green, the diameter of the upper part is 10-15 cm;
- Green goddess– majestic green callas of rare beauty, reaching a height of 90cm.
In the photo: Ethiopian calla (Calla aethiopica)
Calla rehmannii
This is a low calla lily (up to 70 cm in height) with a pink cover (lilac-burgundy or red-pink) and narrow green leaves. The underground part of the plant is a tuber, similar to that of begonia or gloxinia. In autumn it loses its leaves and requires rest in winter time. Popular varieties:
- Chameleon– low calla lily, grown both in a pot and in the garden, bedspread peach color with golden shimmers;
- Evening– satin black and lilac calla;
- Indian summer– red calla, with a garnet hue.