Video about Ethiopian calla. How to fertilize Ethiopian calla lilies, how to care for them at home. When calla lilies have a dormant period and a flowering period. When to take calla lilies outside, when and how to propagate them.
Ethiopian calla – video
We have been growing calla lilies for decades. In this case, it is an Ethiopian calla with a white cover around the flower. When grown, callas prefer loose, moist soil. The soil must necessarily contain either peat, humus, or manure - this is at the discretion of each gardener. We use both peat and humus to ensure that the soil is moist and has a very high moisture permeability.
Calla lily care includes loosening, watering, fertilizing and maintaining temperature regime(room ventilation). In general, Ethiopian calla is a marsh plant, so it constantly requires high humidity of both soil and air. That is why we keep the soil constantly moist - we provide abundant watering of the callas, abundant loosening of the soil and fertilizing if necessary. Callas love various fertilizers, but most of all – potash and nitrogen. You can use superphosphate, potassium sulfate and ammonium nitrate - these are the simplest and most affordable fertilizers.
For flowering callas A period of rest is extremely necessary, without which the callas simply may not bloom in the end. In traditional agricultural technology, this is the summer period. In June, callas have a dormant period, then you need to reduce watering of callas. Water the plants 2-3 times a month; the leaves begin to die off, but it is necessary to continue watering so that 1-2 leaves do not die off, which is necessary so that when the dormant period ends, the plant comes to its senses as quickly as possible and begins to grow. It follows from this that what fewer leaves remains on the calla during the dormant period, the later the inflorescences begin to form, and the later the calla will bloom.
Calla lilies can easily spend their dormant period in open ground, i.e. on summer time you can dig up the plant and replant it in your garden, or simply take the pot or tub out to Fresh air.
If you grew calla lilies at home, during the dormant period it is better to move them to the garden and plant them in open ground. But it will not bloom in the summer, because calla lilies, as we have already said, enter a dormant period at this time. And in August-September the dormant period ends, the calla will need to be dug up, the baby separated, planted in a pot and taken indoors, i.e. bring back home.
This kind of vacation is even preferable for calla lilies - in an apartment there is a greater chance of catching spider mites. By the way, you can fight mites with standard insecticides and acaricides - actellik, for example.
Now the question of dividing calla lilies– you should not ignore the importance of this procedure, because otherwise the calla lilies may not bloom. It is necessary to separate the children from the mother plant in the fall. We dig up the calla lilies and separate the baby from it. If the plant has a lot of children, then the flower will not form and develop. We separate all the children and plant the calla lilies in the ground (there is no need to deepen them, but the neck of the rhizome should not rise too much above the soil). If the plant is deeply buried in the substrate, then the calla inflorescences (formed in the leaf) may begin to rot. If calla lilies are planted too high above the soil, the root system may lack moisture, which leads to an increase in the formation of inflorescences and a deterioration in their development.
No wonder flower growers call calla lilies winter flower. In any case, Ethiopian calla, which we grow according to a method that has been proven for decades, blooms in winter and spring, and rests in summer. Of course, amateurs really want to shift this natural schedule and make calla lilies bloom from June to August. It is possible that modern colored varieties and hybrids are adapted to such conditions.
Today we will talk about popular flowering plant which came to us from South Africa. We will talk about the nuances of cultivation at home and wintering Ethiopian calla lilies. If you call this plant universal, you will be one hundred percent right. They decorate homes and include them in bouquets. This is an excellent greenhouse plant.
Content:
Several features of the Ethiopian calla lily:
- Big sizes.
- Wide, succulent, shiny leaves.
- Heart-shaped bright green leaves.
- The original structure of the flower is an inflorescence-cob on the arrow.
- The beginning of flowering is the second half of the winter period.
- The plant is pleasing to the eye gorgeous flowers one and a half to two months.
So, let's move on to the main issues.
A few words about calla lilies
There are varieties of calla lilies in which the flowers (more precisely, the flower cover) do not white, and colored. However, they do not come from the Ethiopian calla lily, but often from the flowering yellow flowers calla lilies Elliot and calla lilies Remana, whose flowers start out pink and later turn purple-violet.
These species do not have roots, like the Ethiopian calla, but tubers. They are planted in February. Plants develop relatively quickly and after 60 days they are already blooming. Recently, tubers of these unusual calla lilies can be bought in specialized stores.
Typically these varieties bloom during the summer. In the fall, callas fade, their tubers are taken out of the ground, dried and stored for two or two and a half months at a temperature of 12-15 degrees, then planted again in the ground.
Did you know! Calla Ethiopian used to have the botanical name “Calla”? Later this name changed, and this genus of plants was named after the physicist F. Zantedeschia (1773-1846) - “Zantedeschia”. There was a time when this plant was called "ricardia".
Cultivation at home
Experienced flower growers classify the plant we are considering as an unpretentious inhabitant of window sills.
Lighting
The plant develops well and grows in bright, diffused light. In winter, you cannot do without supplementary lighting with phytolamps, since the minimum duration of illumination is 12 hours.
The correct solution would be to “register” the plant on the windowsill of a window facing east and west. A plant on a south-facing window will require protection from direct rays of the sun, which are harmful to it.
Temperature
The dormant period of Ethiopian calla lilies is summer, the flowering period is winter. The average optimal temperature during these periods is 19 degrees.
Watering
An actively growing plant requires moderate watering. It is necessary to avoid drying out the earthen coma. More abundant watering is necessary for blooming flower. Calla lilies that have finished blooming require less water.
Watering the plant is allowed with soft, well-settled 20-degree water.
Air humidity
We're talking about a high-humidity lover who needs to be sprayed every day. Periodic warm showers are also recommended.
Place an open container of water near the plant. True, it is better to use a tray with wet expanded clay.
Soil features
Everything is simple with soil. The plant feels great in neutral universal soil for indoor plants. In order to save money, you can prepare your own soil mixture consisting of rotted turf, foliage, peat, soil, and sand. Everything is taken in equal parts.
Some gardeners grow the plant hydroponically.
Fertilizer
An actively growing plant is fed every 14 days. Priority is given to liquid fertilizer with the least amount of nitrogen, which is negatively associated with flowering. The more phosphorus, the more abundant the flowering.
Wintering conditions
Ethiopian calla is a plant with pronounced growth cycles. Usually, under favorable conditions, it begins to bloom already on the eve of Christmas. The flowers then last until summer.
Then a period of rest begins, indicated by yellow leaves. Watering is now limited and then stopped completely. Now the pot with the plant can be moved to a protected place on the balcony or in the garden. The soil can even dry out completely. Natural precipitation is usually enough to keep the tuber in the substrate from drying out completely. On the balcony, you need to lightly water the plant from time to time.
After a dormant period of about 4-6 weeks, the knobby tuber is removed from the pot, the soil is shaken off and planted in fresh soil. A heavy mixture is suitable for planting. If using ordinary flower earth, you can not mix it with a large number of compost or clay. Mixed soil is also suitable. At first, the tuber is kept moderately moist. However, as soon as shoots begin to appear, the plant is watered more abundantly and fertilized from time to time. The plant needs a relatively large amount of nutrients.
If the calla lilies are still under open air, before the onset of frost, it is moved into the room and kept at a temperature of 9 degrees. Later the temperature can be increased to 14 degrees. It is very important at this time that the plant is in a bright place. Calla tolerates small portions of sun well. Under favorable conditions, calla lilies begin to bloom again by the end of winter or spring.
According to the Horoscope to Zodiac sign Leo (July 23 - August 23) Flower astrologers include the following plants: acalypha bristly; aphelandra protruding; Calceolaria hybrid; camellia japonica; gardenia jasmine; impatiens (impatiens): Waller, Holst, Peters, linearifolia, Hawker; mimosa bashful; royal pelargonium; Chinese rose; ; Zantedeschia ethiopica (calla lily).
Recently, flowering and decorative foliage crops have become increasingly popular among connoisseurs of indoor plants. Zantedeschia ethiopica (Zantedeschia aethiopica ). This plant has many names: Ethiopian calla (Calla aethiopica), Richardia africanica ( Richardia africana), calligraphy etc. It is included in genus Zantedeschia Spreng ., including 8 types.
Zantedeschia came to us from the tropics of South Africa, where it grows on damp, well-lit river banks and wetlands, reaching truly impressive sizes there. It is considered a close relative of the marsh whitefly and calamus that live in our area. In my own way appearance this plant is extremely similar to Alocasia, which is widespread in floral practice and belongs to the same Araceae family.
Types and varieties of calla lilies
Thanks to the exceptional grace and severity of the lines, the exquisite (ideally white) bedspread, breeders in the last half century have paid a lot of attention to this flower culture. They created varieties as for open ground (southern regions) and for indoor use(in the conditions of our North-West). By the way, New Zealand is called the world leader in the selection and production of calla lilies intended for cutting, as well as in the production of its tubers.
In addition to varieties Zantedeschi Ethiopian(with a white cover) calla lilies are also cultivated in warmer latitudes Elliott ( Z. elliottiana Engl.) with a yellow blanket of inflorescences and calla lilies Remani ( Z. rehmanii Engl.) with a pink blanket and spotted leaves. Interspecific hybrids have cream and orange colored spathes; Through the efforts of breeders, pink shades have even been brought to carmine and lilac. Very interesting varieties, characterized by fragrant flowers, unfortunately, in retail sales and greenhouse conditions are rare.
The varieties most often offered for indoor keeping are (the length of the peduncles, the length of the bedspread and the color are indicated in brackets): Little Jam (Little Ge)(up to 50 cm, 5-8, white) , Nikolai (Nikolai) (up to 150, 12-15, white, green at the base), Pearl von Zweibrücken (Perle von Zweibrucken) (up to 90, light yellow-green at the base), Schöne Zweibrückerin (Schone von Zweibrucken) (more than 100, blanket 15 cm in diameter, dark yellow at the base), Pearl von Stuttgart (Perle von Stuttgart) (up to 70 cm). Zantedeschia Elliott, with its yellow spathe and spotted leaves, is considered to be suitable only for growing in greenhouses and greenhouses.
To start a calla lily, an evergreen semi-marsh plant, a gardener will need, first of all, quite spacious room(easier to say, a small greenhouse is preferable). A small apartment, which is quite typical for the conditions of our city, is very unsuitable for this purpose.
At the same time, less known high grades zantedeschia ethiopica, but for its knobby rhizomes you will still need a container of decent volume, installed on a wide and deep tray. The plant also really needed high humidity air, rest period and additional lighting. So, you must admit, this plant is not very suitable for a small living room (especially a bedroom).
Calla lilies have cord-like, fleshy roots that extend from a succulent tuber. Its large (up to 60-80 cm) wide shiny leaves, arrow-shaped or heart-shaped, are located on long (15-30 cm) basal delicate bright green juicy petioles.
This plant looks wonderful when it has a peculiar large snow-white flower, blooming at the end of a high arrow. Although in reality it is not a flower, but a kind of asymmetrical sheath of white or yellowish color and 10-15 cm in diameter on a yellow elongated inflorescence - a spadix, consisting of very small inconspicuous flowers with a delicate smell, a little reminiscent of vanilla.
IN room conditions Zantedeschia ethiopica usually blooms in the second half of winter(quite rarely - from October) to May (but more often in spring - to April) for 1.5-2 months (in warm greenhouses usually in winter); Cut flowers can last the same amount of time. The appearance of an arrow is a sign of the beginning of new growth (when wintering in warm room it is usually celebrated in January-February, later in cool weather); at this time the plant is replanted, creating a temperature of at least 15°C.
Blooming calla lilies every week feed a solution of mineral fertilizer, where phosphorus and potassium predominate. Excess nitrogen causes rapid growth of leaves to the detriment of flower development. If fruits set, it is better to remove them so as not to deplete the plants. By the way, in its homeland its flowering, as a rule, coincides with a short period of rain.
Gradual return to active life Calla lilies start in August. After a good rest, it develops powerful leaves and then blooms again.
For successful development, it is better for the plant to choose a sufficiently light, but it is also possible to have a semi-shaded room, which must be protected from sun rays, moderately cool: it develops well at 10...12°C, for example, on a north-facing window. In winter, the optimal temperature is even 8...10°C with very moderate watering.
But during flowering the temperature is desirable up to 14...16°C (in a warmer room the quality of flowers decreases). During this period, calla lilies are watered abundantly and their foliage is often sprayed. To increase the humidity of the soil and surrounding air, experienced flower growers Place the pot with the plant in a deep tray, always filled with water. As the plant ages, it develops a herbaceous trunk and produces larger flowers.
After the end of flowering, calla lilies begin to rest period. It falls between mid-May and July. At this time, the leaves turn yellow and plant growth stops, although the roots continue to develop. Watering is stopped, but if possible, it is advisable to take it out into the fresh air (possible until autumn). This can be a balcony or loggia, but with moderate heat, without piercing winds and direct sunlight.
Calla Reproduction
During this period you can begin to transplantation or reproduction. The transplanted flower needs a room with a temperature of at least 15°C. After the plant has rooted, watering is increased and gradually brought to abundant watering.
Calla lilies are propagated quite easily and quickly (especially if the plant is cultivated in large pots) with the help of sufficiently tall offspring. They are nodules with small, weak leaves, which still need to be removed, as they weaken the tubers and delay further flowering of the plants. These nodules form in large numbers around the plant throughout the year.
The queen cells are carefully broken out from the bare rhizomes" kids"0.5-1.5 cm thick, which are placed for growing - each in a separate container. You can get 12-25 of them from an adult plant. It is better to do this in a small greenhouse (the air temperature should be approximately 14-16 ° C and humidity 80-85%). high temperature and lack of light, the leaves of young calla lilies stretch out, break easily, acquire a light green color, and subsequently the number of flowers decreases sharply. At good conditions next spring they are able to bloom.
Sometimes whole for reproduction root tubers are divided into several parts so that there is one kidney for each, but two are better. According to some flower growers, it is better to break them carefully than to cut them with a knife. Bare broken areas are sprinkled with coal (or treated with a solution of potassium permanganate) and dried for 3-4 days before planting.
The plant requires shallow landing: The rhizome should be slightly covered with soil. On initial stage soil substrate with "delenki" they are weakly moisturized. Watering is increased only with the appearance of the first shoots. Sometimes, when transplanting, parts of tubers break off, which remain in the soil and produce after a period of very unexpected places small sprouts. With normal care, such a small piece - a "division" with one developed bud - produces a flower within a year.
Young calla blooms on next year , but with the beginning of flowering it is periodically reinforced foliar feeding- solutions of microelements (boron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, potassium iodide, copper) and often sprayed with clean water.
Calla can be propagate by seeds, which are sown immediately after harvest. Until emergence, the temperature is maintained at about 20°C. When picking, each plant is transferred to a separate container. The following year, the seedlings are given a dormant period for two summer months.
At the time of buying a healthy tuber must be elastic and must have live apical buds with light yellowish and not wrinkled skin in the upper part. Too dried (unsuitable for propagation) tubers look wrinkled, with buds without signs of living tissue and skin that has turned gray over the entire surface. Before planting, the tubers can be stored for some time in the refrigerator (vegetable compartment).
In March(but no later than April) them the peace is interrupted and planted, choosing a sufficiently spacious container for this: this culture does not like cramped containers, which is why it may not bloom. In addition, one must keep in mind that from a small nodule in appearance a whole thicket of half-meter-long leaves can appear. Soil substrate should be rich in nutrients (turf, leaf soil, compost - 1:1:1), add a tablespoon of superphosphate to 3 liters of the mixture. The tuber is planted to a depth of at least 10 cm, since shallower planting leads to lodging of the leaves.
The pot is placed on a wide and deep tray. To bring the culture closer to natural conditions, you can pour water into this pan, maintaining its constant level at a height of 5-7 cm.
The first to emerge from the soil are scale-like leaves. They begin to be sprayed regularly, otherwise the tips will dry out, which gives the plants a rather untidy appearance, and flowering may also be delayed. Also begin water feeding mineral fertilizers. At the beginning of the season, fertilizing with nitrogen is preferable, and during flowering - with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
For long-term maintenance the soil substrate must be very nutritious(slightly acidic, rich in humus), therefore its composition includes humus, turf and peat soil(in proportion 2:1:1); It would be ideal to add one part of the swamp land here. Some gardeners add a little manure or compost to the soil.
Experienced flower growers specializing in this group of plants recommend keeping in mind when purchasing them greater variability in the color of the bedspread. They warn that its color may fade in low light, resulting in a deep yellow or pink color, as happens in photographs in advertising brochures, is often impossible (even in a sufficiently lit place).
It should also be taken into account that all (without exception) varieties the color of the spathe turns green after pollination, and the original one (white or pink) disappears. Such a transition is a vital necessity for the plant, since it must use the spathe as an additional source of photosynthesis products (for successful seed ripening.). But experts urge not to be upset: various shades the colors will still create a pleasing harmony to the eye.
Note that Calla lilies' leaves are not devoid of decorativeness. In some varieties leaf blades decorated with silver-white or pink translucent spots that create unusual game light if you place the plants against the sun. The leaves of only a number of varieties of calla Remani are less attractive (with a wedge-shaped base and without spots). Based on the condition of the leaves of his plant, as if using a living barometer, the gardener can monitor changes in pressure: when it decreases (i.e., before rain), droplets of water appear at the tips of the leaves and inflorescence covers.
In greenhouses, calla lilies are kept in pots and in the ground.(under optimal conditions for it, it lives up to 10 years), but in the last decade it began to be bred exclusively for first-class cutting: flowers are stored in a vase in cut form for up to 1.5-2 months, if you change the water weekly and trim the petiole by 0.5 cm.
If the indoor air is too dry, it can settle on the plant. spider mite . It is also possible that aphids.
A. Lazarev, candidate biological sciences, senior researcher at the All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection
Ethiopian calla (calla aethiopica) is one of the most beautifully flowering indoor plants, belonging to the Araceae family. Its natural habitat is the swampy areas of South Africa.
Features and varieties
Ethiopian calla is perennial, having a stem-like rhizome, but classified as herbaceous. Its basal leaves are large, reaching a length of 30-45 cm and a width of 20-25 cm, the shape of the leaves is thyroid-heart-shaped, heart-shaped at the base.
The leaves rise on straight long petioles 15-30 cm high, and the height of the peduncle depends on the variety and can range from 40 to 150 cm. How should the plant be cared for in order to home calla lily did it bloom regularly and please the eye with its appearance?
There are many varieties of calla lilies that grow quite successfully at home and can even reproduce. They differ from each other in the size of the leaves and the color of the flowers and cover.
Among all the variety, we can note the most popular among amateur gardeners houseplants Calla genus, they include:
- "Green Goddess"– has a two-color veil, the center of the “funnel” of the flower is white, and its outer slightly elongated part is green, matching the color of the leaves;
- “Pink mist” - the base of the bedspread and the ear of the flower itself are pink;
- "Red Desire"– a flower variety with a white veil and a red inflorescence-cob;
- “White Sail” is the most common variety; its feature is a very wide inflorescence.
Growing Ethiopian calla lilies at home as a potted plant will make your interior attractive and give you many positive emotions, provided you follow all the rules of care.
Care
Ethiopian white calla in indoor culture is quite unpretentious flower, since very little is required for her to feel normal.
So for regular and abundant flowering, as well as good health, the flower requires bright but diffuse lighting lasting 12-14 hours, so in winter time additional lighting in the form of phytolamps will be required.
When placing a flower in an apartment best place for him there will be western and eastern windows, but on south side it will be too hot and will need to be shaded from the scorching sun.
The optimal temperature during flowering and dormancy is 18-20 degrees, but at the beginning of the growing season it is advisable to reduce it to 16 °C. Sudden temperature changes and drafts are strictly contraindicated for the plant.
As for watering, it should be moderate during the period of active plant growth, and abundant during flowering. During this period, the soil should always remain moist, but not wet. For irrigation you need to use soft, settled water. In addition to watering, homemade Ethiopian calla lilies must be provided with a daily warm “shower”, since it is very important for it high humidity air. The pot can be placed on damp expanded clay or placed next to a container of water.
The composition of the soil is not particularly important for calla lilies, the most important thing is that the soil should be nutritious, moisture- and breathable. This can be a universal neutral soil for flowering indoor plants.
For those who want to make their own soil mixture, flower growers recommend taking turf, leaf, peat, humus soil and sand in equal quantities.
The plant blooms from October to May. The flowers have a long flowering period, which can last up to one and a half months. Flowers cut in the state of half-opened buds remain in water for a very long time - about two weeks. At the end of April, flowering begins to fade and by June it stops completely. During the period of flowering and active growth, the flower needs to be fed with a solution of liquid fertilizers.
In this case, the nutritional mixture should be chosen correctly. So, when calla blooms, it needs to be given more phosphorus, and in the growth phase - nitrogen.
Reproduction and transplantation
Regardless of how old the flower is, it needs annual replanting. It is best to do this immediately after the end of the dormant period, that is, in July - August. The flower must be removed from the old substrate, cleaned of dry leaves and planted in a new one. earth mixture. At the same time, it is important to ensure that the root collar of the flower is not too deep into the soil.
Pots must be selected small size, since the roots should not be too spacious. The plant reproduces by separating lateral rhizomatous shoots during annual replanting. In this case, the young separated shoots are dried for 1-2 days and then planted in small separate pots.
The plant can also reproduce by seeds, only for this they must be freshly harvested; however, seed propagation is used for breeding purposes.
After sowing the seeds in boxes, they are placed on racks. For maximum seed germination, it is necessary to maintain a room temperature of 20-22°. After the seedlings have grown a little and become stronger, you can begin picking. 2 months after picking, young plants are transplanted into pots. Caring for young Ethiopian calla lilies involves watering it abundantly and maintaining optimal temperature 15-18°.
Diseases and pests
The main cause of diseases affecting Ethiopian calla lilies is improper care. The most common mistake home gardeners make is over-watering during the dormant period.
From the Araceae family, it is striking in its huge size of dense arrow-shaped leaves and monumentality. long peduncle, crowned with a yellow inflorescence-cob, wrapped in a funnel-shaped bract-veil - snow-white, yellow or pink. As an encrypted conspirator, calla (Calla) has several other names - calla, and Richardia, and Zantedeschia. In nature, calla lilies grow in the swampy areas of South Africa. This is perennial herbaceous plant with a fleshy tuberous rhizome, about 80 cm high; basal leaves on a high grooved petiole reach 40 cm in length and 25 cm in width. There are many varieties of calla lilies, in which the length of the peduncles ranges from 40 cm to 1.5 m - therefore, there are high, medium and low forms of calla lilies.
Calla is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and high ecological plasticity - it grows and blooms with significant fluctuations in light, humidity and temperature. The location in the house for calla lilies is chosen from sunny to semi-shaded: in summer it is better in partial shade, and in autumn - closer to the window. In the summer, calla lilies can be taken out into the garden, to a protected place. At the end of October - beginning of November, the first flower stalks appear on the calla lilies and flowering continues until May; in June-July there is a dormant period. To imitate the natural growth conditions of calla lilies in nature, during the dormant period, watering is reduced - watered once every 10 days. At the end of the dormant period, you need to remove the clod of earth from the pot, clean the calla lily from old leaves and soil, separate the shoots and dormant buds (baby with a diameter of 0.5-1.5 cm) for reproduction. After this, the calla lilies are planted in the same pot in fresh soil (a mixture of turf, leaf, humus, trophy soil and sand in equal parts), placing the rhizome shallow.
Caring for calla lilies at home
Temperature:
Room temperature is optimal for normal height plants. In summer, you can take the calla lilies outside, protecting the plant from the scorching sun.
Lighting:
Calla is a very light-loving plant, so the pot with calla is placed in a dry, well-lit place.
Humidity:
Air humidity is quite important criterion. At room temperature more than 20 degrees, calla needs spraying.
Watering:
Proper watering is an important condition for good growth and development, so they need to be watered regularly and often. In order for the flower to grow well, it must be watered regularly and fertilizers must be added to the soil at least once a month.
The soil:
The calla flower feels good in slightly acidic soil, which you can prepare at home yourself. To do this you will need deciduous soil, peat and some sand. It is recommended to transplant adult flowers late autumn, In November.
Bloom:
If you want to achieve year-round flowering, then the amount of fertilizing must be increased. However, you need to make sure that the flower does not receive too much. For example, a large amount of nitrogen in the soil negatively affects the leaves - they turn black around the edges. When flowering ends, the covers of the flowers turn green and droop, the leaves turn yellow and gradually dry out.
Reproduction:
Ethiopian calla reproduces by suckers and division of the rhizome. The offspring are separated from the mother plant and planted in pots. Water, spray and feed with nitrogenous fertilizers until buds appear, and during flowering - with fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.
When dividing the rhizome, a bud must be present on each separated part. The cuts are processed charcoal and plant each one in its own pot. There is no need to water until sprouts appear. After the sprouts appear, care is no different from caring for an adult plant.
“Colored” callas are propagated by tubers, which are simply separated from the mother plant. If the tubers do not separate easily, then there is no need to touch them. These tubers are not yet ready for independent life. It is better to leave them on the mother plant until they are old enough.
Complexity:
Ultimately, caring for calla lilies is not that difficult. It must be taken into account that care for different types Calla lilies vary. For example, white callas require more moisture, and their growth does not slow down during the period of dormancy and lack of flowering.