How thick can you put a Mauerlat on aerated concrete? How to independently attach a Mauerlat to an aerated concrete wall. General information about the material

Good afternoon or evening!

I see that you carefully approach the solution to the problems of each issue, I really liked it, so I decided to apply!
So there is no such problem, but there is psychological discomfort (more on that a little later), due to the fact that there is no armored belt.
Read more.
The house is built as follows.

The soil on which the foundation stands is sand and clay (because when the piles were drilled, this mixture (light in the form of sand) came out).
By groundwater, the water in the summer stands at about 4 meters (according to the person who sold the plot), but when the piles were made to a depth of about 2.4 m there was no water; a ditch has been dug behind the site for collecting spring water and output beyond the road, 1.5 meters deep.
The site is flat (the slope is insignificant 10-5 cm by 8 meters), but there is a mountain 300 meters in front of it, and behind it 200 meters there is Railway(highway to Moscow via Perm) sometimes a slight vibration is felt.
Foundation 7.15 m by 8.12 m with a lintel in the form of a cross inside the house, grillage 60 cm (height) * 40 (width) cm (40 in the ground + 20 above it), piles were made every 1.1-1.3 from each other (from edge to edge of the pile) with a diameter of 40 cm by 2 m from the bottom point of the grillage, not excluding the lintel (an approximate view of the foundation is attached), 10" reinforcement was used.
It was poured in October last year (2012), concrete grade M200 (diagram attached).
This year I started building walls (June 2013).
Then the roofing material is laid in 2 layers, the base is made of three M150 bricks (with 2 vents per room).
Next came our gas block (600*188*300). The first floor is 13 rows, about 2.4 m, floor beams (10 pieces) are placed on them, since the first floor has 5 walls, the beams were located as follows: the back of the house (where there is no bay window) beams 150 * 150 where - then 4 meters each, supported on the wall and partition by 30 cm (over the entire width of the block), the front part of the house (with a bay window) beams 100*150 5 meters each, and one from the bay window to the partition 6 m, all supported on each side by 30 cm (wrapped with roofing felt).
Next, the attic was erected with side walls 1.2 meters high and gables 2.3 meters high.
The blocks were placed on glue.

This is the denouement.
I started thinking about how to install a monsard roof, what to attach it to, and so I went online to read about what and how. I read that an armored belt is needed (I had never heard of this before, I thought the gas block was laid like a brick and that’s why I didn’t go on the internet and the builders said the house would stand for 100 years) and the neighbors didn’t make it and screwed the beam to the block, but here you are wearing an armored belt was needed between the first and second floors and at level 1.2 from the second floor before erecting gables, fittings and luggage between the rows of aerated concrete blocks. What a wonderful material, it’s like shaking a child over it. But it’s too late, everything has been erected. “It’s your elbow, but you won’t bite it,” Well, I started asking on the forums what and how, but everyone kept shouting at me, it’s going to fall apart, take it all apart and do it again. I decided to ask you for advice. There is no extra money to break everything and do it again.

This is the psychological moment. They scared me with all sorts of horror stories. I was thinking of erecting a broken armored belt (along the sloping surfaces of the gable walls) in 3 fiberglass reinforcement 8-thick with a bandage of 1 m, a belt width of 25 cm and a height of 20 cm, on it a beam of 100 * 150 mm with a stud pitch of 1.5 meters, then build an attic with a rafter pitch of 600-700 mm (board 50 * 150). A view of the rafters and an approximate view of the roof are attached. What can you say about this situation, maybe something needs to be strengthened, maybe it’s not necessary? How to build an attic from a gas block 600 * 188 (height) * 300 (width)?

Installing a Mauerlat is not difficult, but it requires some skills and accurate calculations. A competent owner can easily handle this on his own. Let's try to figure out what and how best to attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete, and also talk about the importance of waterproofing.

What is the Mauerlat fastening like?

In the process of building a house, the Mauerlat is given Special attention– he is entrusted with an important mission in the roof structure. The rafter system puts a very large load on the walls, to avoid this, beams are installed around the perimeter, and rafter legs are attached to them - thus, the load is evenly distributed on the walls of the house.

Fixing the Mauerlat can be done in three ways, using studs, anchors or steel wire. Typically the method depends on the overall dimensions of the building or home. Experts have long come to the unanimous opinion that fastening the Mauerlat to aerated concrete should be accompanied by the creation of an armored belt. Then the structure will be ideally strong and rigid, less susceptible to shrinkage.

Because wooden logs Mauerlat are responsible for reliable fixation of rafter beams - they must be secured as efficiently and powerfully as possible. Otherwise, they will not be able to take on part of the load properly.

Parameters of suitable timber for the role of Mauerlat

Bars are well suited for this deciduous trees(most often oak). The recommended size is 10x10, but larger is possible - 15x15. Be sure to treat the wood antiseptic to protect against rotting. Using a direct lock and additional nails for reliability, the mauerlat is fastened together, evenly covering the top of the walls.

Important: it happens that you have to take “raw” wood, in such cases, do not forget that for 5 years you will need to tighten the anchor nut annually due to frequent shrinkage of the wood - take care of the possibility of adjusting it. Over time, this will not be necessary.

Before installing the Mauerlat, the top of the walls must be covered with a layer of waterproofing, otherwise the wood will begin to deteriorate upon contact with the wall surface. For this, you can use ordinary roofing felt, but modern builders still do not recommend it - it is better to choose a high-quality bitumen-polymer material. It will provide more reliable waterproofing.

Fastening with anchors

It is this fastening that is used with the armored belt - together they create
very durable and reliable design. The armored belt is a kind of frame made of 12 mm reinforcement, which fits into a special gutter.

What you will need:

Reinforcement 10-12 mm thick to create a frame.

Rods 6 mm thick, for transverse intersections of armored belts

Concrete grade M-200
U-shaped blocks - they will be a container for reinforcement and concrete

U-blocks will help you lay out a groove on the surface of the walls without resorting to cutting aerated concrete - just install the blocks along the upper edge of the walls.

You should end up with a continuous “ditch” - for this you need to place blocks with sawn-off sides in the corners.

Then, install a reinforced belt into the resulting gutter.

Attach a threaded anchor to the belt; to do this, use wire, and stretch fishing line or thick thread as guides.

Now you can fill it all with concrete.

After the concrete has dried, apply a waterproofing layer.

Important: the anchors must protrude beyond the concrete - you will put the Mauerlat on them. Pouring the concrete mixture should occur without interruption, so to speak, in one go at once, the required amount.

Despite the existence of other methods of fastening to aerated concrete, the use of a reinforced belt cannot be compared with any other in terms of quality and power.

Metal studs - where this type of fastening is appropriate

This option is good for absolutely small houses or other buildings where there is no heavy load on the aerated concrete walls. Well, or for some reason it is not possible to build an armored belt. In other cases metal studs They are quite weak and cannot withstand excessive pressure, so experts do not recommend using them for attaching the Mauerlat to the walls of large buildings.

Stages of work:

To insert studs into aerated concrete, you must drill holes in it at a distance of one to one and a half meters.

Insert SPT 12 studs into the aerated concrete.

Then the hairpin needs to be filled with solution.

Before putting the Mauerlat on the studs, install a layer of waterproofing - you can use roofing felt, but as mentioned above, it is better to use a more modern material.

Place the Mauerlat timber on the insulation, placing it on the washers.

Tighten the nuts.

At the junction points, the Mauerlat is tightened with staples.

Important: it happens that during the work there are already gables - it is better to remove them. Lay the bars along the edges of the walls, then file the rafter legs - this way, you will be able to redirect the thrust from the rafters to the beam.

Fastening the Mauerlat with wire without an armored belt

This method is much simpler than the first two, but less durable and strong - it is well suited where you need to fasten the Mauerlat to aerated concrete as quickly as possible. Used in the construction of small, simple buildings. If in the method with construction studs an armored belt is installed if necessary, then everything happens without it in any case. Its advantage is that for the work you only need steel wire.

Work process:

At the stage of wall construction during installation aerated concrete blocks, you need to insert the wire between the joints of the bricks and embed it. This should be done so that its middle is tightly secured with blocks. It is advisable to start installing the wire somewhere three or four rows before the wall is completed.

The steel wire must be long. Keep in mind that part of it will be under the bricks, and the ends must penetrate the hole in the beam, braid it, and then they must be tightly tightened and secured. Thus, the Mauerlat will be able to quite confidently hold the entire structure rafter system, taking part of the load from the walls onto yourself.

Do not forget that the Mauerlat must be fastened in such a way that it remains free space between the beams and the outer edge of the wall is at least 5 cm.

Wooden boards must be sanded well to avoid cracks or knots.

Waterproofing is one of the important points– if it is not laid, then moisture will form between the wood and aerated concrete, and it will very quickly ruin the timber.

"Raw" wood is allowed, but it must comply building regulations.

As you can see, attaching the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt or with it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. But in any case, it would be useful to consult with experienced builder.

Video

When arranging a roof with one or more slopes, it becomes necessary to install a rafter system. However, it is impossible to lay rafters directly on the walls - for this purpose they use a Mauerlat, which redistributes the load. If the walls of a building are constructed from a porous material such as aerated concrete, it is not always possible to lay a reinforcing belt under the Mauerlat. In this article we will talk about how to secure the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt using various methods, we will describe in detail the technology and subtleties this process.

Why do you need a Mauerlat?

So, the Mauerlat is very important element structure, which takes the main weight of the rafter system and distributes it evenly over the entire plane of the load-bearing walls. As a rule, it is made of a material similar to rafters - most often wooden beams. However, a steel rafter system will require a Mauerlat made from an I-beam or channel.

The following materials are used to make the Mauerlat:

Wooden beams with a cross section of 100x100 mm, 150x150 mm, and also 200x300 mm. In this case, you can take a hardwood tree that has undergone antiseptic treatment. The timber is laid around the perimeter of the building. The logs are joined using the locking method or using nails. Wooden frames for roofs they are most often erected in private construction.
Rolling profiles– I-beams in the shape of the letter H or channels in the shape of the letter P are used somewhat less frequently. At the same time, the height steel profiles may vary between 7-12 cm.

Whatever material you choose, it is attached to the surface of the walls. There can be several ways to attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete. After fixing this element, the rafter legs are installed. It is worth noting that the Mauerlat not only redistributes the load, but also prevents the rafter system from moving in the horizontal plane.

Since aerated concrete is a rather fragile material and does not tolerate increased loads, many craftsmen prefer to pour a reinforcing belt along the upper edge of the walls. At the same time, to reduce costs and labor costs, there are some methods for securing the Mauerlat without an armored belt. It is also worth knowing whether a Mauerlat is needed if there is an armored belt, what the advantages and disadvantages are.

Please note that there must be at least 30-50 cm from the ceiling to the top edge of the mauerlat so that the space under the roof can be well ventilated and access to load-bearing structures roofs for maintenance and repair.

Methods of fastening to aerated concrete

It is worth noting that laying the Mauerlat on aerated concrete is much more difficult than, say, on a brick wall. Usually it is laid at a distance of 5 cm from the outer edge of the wall.

The following elements can be used to lay and fix the Mauerlat:

steel wire;
anchor bolts;
chemical anchors;
steel studs.

Fixing the Mauerlat on a reinforcing belt or on brick wall performed using anchor bolts.

After the beam is installed, the rafter leg is pulled to it and wound with twisted steel wire with a cross-section of 3 mm. 6 cm below the beam you need to install a short piece on which the rest of the wire will be fixed. Alternatively, the wire can be wrapped around the floor slabs for secure fixation.

If we're talking about about the roof complex design, then it is recommended to fasten the Mauerlat beam to aerated concrete using a reinforced concrete belt. It will provide not only greater reliability of the structure, but will also allow the load to be evenly distributed.

The Mauerlat bars are secured to each other using an oblique cut and then secured with nails or bolts. Staples or steel plates attach corner connections additional rigidity.

Fixing the Mauerlat using wire

Before attaching the Mauerlat to aerated concrete using steel wire, it must first be fixed in the thickness of the wall. This should be done while laying the last rows of gas blocks - the wire is placed under them.

The installation technique in this way looks like this:

A couple of rows before the end of the masonry, a twisted one of several more is placed between the blocks. thin wire, with a cross section of 6 mm.
In this case, the central piece of wire will be placed in the thickness of the masonry, and the ends will hang down on both sides of the masonry. The length of the ends is made such that they are enough to wrap freely around the beam.
There should be so many pieces of wire that it is enough to tie all the rafter legs.

How to secure with studs

It would be advisable to attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt on studs only in cases where it is planned to use lightweight roofing materials in houses small area. Therefore, the expected load on the walls will be small.

In addition, in this situation, the Mauerlat beam itself will serve as an armored belt. Although there are conflicting opinions regarding this type of installation of a Mauerlat on aerated concrete, practice shows that it has a right to life. This technique ensures a sufficient level of reliability and stability of roofing structures.

To work you will need the following components:

metal studs SRT-12, which are also called “ dovetail»;
timber beam with a cross-section of 20x30 cm - although the thickness depends on the size of the constructed wall of the building.

The sequence of work for laying the Mauerlat on aerated concrete without an armored belt looks like this:

Along the entire length load-bearing wall in its upper part, recesses are drilled at a distance of 100-150 cm.
Pins for the Mauerlat are placed in the finished holes and secured with non-shrink mortar or cement laitance.
Waterproofing from a double layer of roofing felt is laid on the block wall. At the locations of the pins, holes are pierced in the material so that it tightly covers the surface of the metal. This stage helps protect the wood from rotting due to moisture.
Next, recesses are drilled in the Mauerlat along the diameter of the studs with a pitch that coincides with their location.
Now the mauerlat beam is put on the studs and secured with nuts and washers.
After installing the beams, the abutting end parts are tightened with metal staples.
Next, the rafter legs are installed directly.

The process of attaching the roof to aerated concrete will look somewhat different if the studs are mounted into a reinforcing belt.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Before pouring cement mixture Studs are installed in the formwork under the armored belt in increments of up to 1 m.
They are fixed to the frame with knitting wire or plastic ties.
Align the location of the studs along all axes.
The formwork with reinforcement and studs is filled with a cement composition.
After the reinforcing belt has completely hardened, the Mauerlat beam is placed on the protruding studs and tightened with nuts.

Application of chemical anchors

By chemical anchor we mean a liquid injection mass made on the basis of a polymer resin, which quickly hardens and firmly fixes the metal rods in the thickness of the Mauerlat.

The advantage of this material is the absence of bursting stress, so fragile aerated concrete does not collapse. If mechanical anchors fix parts by expanding the dowel, then adhesive composition chemical anchor fills the pores of aerated concrete and holds the rod motionless.

The process of attaching liquid dowels looks like this:

A recess for the anchor is drilled in the gas block. The size of the recess should be larger than usual anchor bolt.
Remove dust and debris from the hole, for example, with a vacuum cleaner.
The adhesive composition is poured into the hole.
Next, a threaded metal rod is inserted into the glue - an M 12-14 pin or a piece of reinforcement.
Complete crystallization polymer composition occurs in 1/3 hour if the ambient temperature is above 20 ℃.
Once the glue hardens, the pin will be securely fixed. It is noteworthy that such fasteners are stronger than mechanical ones.

Installing a roof Mauerlat on a wall made of aerated concrete using liquid dowels has a number of undoubted advantages:

The fastening does not lose strength for more than 50 years.
Due to the polymer structure of the glue, this method of fixation is widely used at the edges of walls, where there is a risk of the gas block splitting.
The chemical anchor has good chemical resistance.
Even damp weather and wet surfaces of the joining elements do not prevent the installation of these fasteners.
Installation of the roof mauerlat on aerated concrete blocks can be carried out without filling the armored belt, since the reliability of fastening a chemical anchor is much higher than that of a mechanical one.
Chemical composition The anchor is ideally combined with the porous structure of aerated blocks.
To install liquid dowels, holes of a shallower depth are required than in the case of mechanical anchors - there the depth is 2-3 rows.

However, it is impossible to carry out welding work– overheating of the metal rod will lead to disturbances in the polymer structure of the material, causing it to lose strength.

Fastening on mechanical anchors without armored belt

Finally, the last way to attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete is the use of traditional mechanical anchor bolts.

The anchor consists of:

internal steel rod with applied thread;
outer casing - the spacer part of the mechanism.

The principle of operation of the anchor is the gradual deformation of the outer body as the nut on the bolt is tightened. In this way, the bolt is firmly fixed in the drilled hole.

Installation anchors it happens like this:

Along the last row of blocks, beams are laid out along the walls.
Holes for mounting bolts are made along the entire length of the beam in 1 m increments. Please ensure that the anchors are placed at the corners of the building and at the junction of two pieces of timber.
Using a special drill, a hole is made through the laid Mauerlat in the gas block to the depth of the anchor. In this case, the depth of the hole should be no less than the thickness of 2-3 rows of masonry.
An anchor bolt is inserted into the hole made. It is advisable to use products with a length of at least 50 cm and thread M 12-14.
Finally, put a washer on the bolt and tighten the nut as tightly as possible. As a result of compression, the anchor body contracts and expands the material. So the bolt is securely fastened into the thickness of the wall.

Attaching the Mauerlat to aerated concrete is quite simple. Careful preparation of all components plays a primary role: wooden beams, fastening elements, reinforcement cage, reliable waterproofing. Let's look at the order of work.

Attaching the Mauerlat to aerated concrete

Before directly attaching the Mauerlat, you should prepare the base. Reinforcing belt – required condition when arranging the roof, if the walls are made of aerated concrete or any similar material.

The reinforced concrete strapping belt prevents the pushing of aerated concrete blocks and allows the dynamic and static forces coming from the roof to be evenly distributed completely over the wall area.

Arrangement of a reinforcing belt

Minimum size concrete tape is 200x150 m. It is attached to the inner surface of the wall.

Installation steps:

construct formwork around the perimeter of the house. The gables must be treated;
u-shaped blocks create a reinforced concrete belt;
A frame is assembled from reinforcement 10 mm thick. The reinforcement should protrude by 4 cm;
To rigidly fasten the Mauerlt to the aerated concrete, threaded studs are installed at intervals of 1 m. Their diameter is 14mm;
the blocks are filled with concrete grade M-200;
After a week, you can remove parts of the formwork and attach the Mauerlat.

Important: at the stage of preparation for the start of work, builders are required to calculate the number of studs and the future distance between them. Attachment points wooden structure to the rafters and the connection points with the reinforcing belt should be located in different places. Check that the number of rafter legs and studs is the same.

Preparing a wooden structure

The beams are treated before installation antiseptics, preventing wood rotting. A log or beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm is wrapped in waterproofing material. Bitumen-polymer waterproofing material is suitable for this purpose. Ruberoid is not used.

High-quality materials will create a durable structure. The tree should not have knots or cracks. Humidity must comply with building codes.

If the developer uses “raw” wood, it should be possible adjust the anchor nut.

This operation is performed once a year for 5 years. During this period, intensive shrinkage of wet wood occurs. As the beams dry, you will have to tighten the nut less and less.

In this photo you can clearly see one of the ways to attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete walls.

How to properly attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete?

Use an anchor with a washer and nut. Anchor shape: T- and L-shaped. Thread: M12 or M14. According to international building codes, in earthquake-prone areas the distance between adjacent anchors should not exceed 1 - 1.2 m.

Mechanical type of fastener

Procedure:

dowels are inserted into the prepared holes;
screw in the fastening element;
the teeth of the harpoon are firmly pressed into the aerated concrete;
the surface expands;
the structure is securely fixed.

Great option Installing a Mauerlat on aerated concrete has only one drawback - high cost. 1 anchor and a special dowel with a harpoon costs more than 3 thousand rubles.

Another video on how to attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete.

Mauerlat installation

Another method is used to firmly secure the Mauerlat in aerated concrete walls. Will need capsule with chemical . Its cost is much lower - 150 rubles. for a unit.

Reliable fixation of the structure is achieved through the penetration of chemicals into the pores of the material. Additionally concrete surface receives heat and waterproofing.

Final stage

After installing the Mauerlat on aerated concrete, proceed to installation of truss structure. There are two ways.

First option

the boards are cut to 1/3 of the board depth;
nails and metal corners will allow you to securely fasten the rafters;
nails (2 pcs.) are hammered crosswise from the sides;
an additional nail is driven in from above;
The fastening angles finally secure the joint.

Second option

cutting is not done in the rafters;
a special support block is hemmed from below, resting on the Mauerlat;
nails are driven in as in the first option.

The support beam has a length of 1 m. The second option is suitable for rafters that have a low height.

Fastening the tie beam can only be done after accurate calculations and preparation quality materials. Purchasing bars of inadequate quality from high humidity may lead to damage to the strength of the structure.

To attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete wall use anchors with special dowels or chemical method installations. Be sure to follow thermal insulation of a reinforcing belt made of extruded polystyrene foam.

Compliance with the requirements will allow you to securely fasten the Mauerlat and create a strong rafter structure.

The Mauerlat is attached to aerated concrete or foam concrete, as a rule, using a reinforcing belt located in the upper part of the wall structures. It is this that becomes the support for the Mauerlat and provides greater strength to the entire house.

Why do you need an armored belt?

As is known, aerated concrete is characterized by high sensitivity to local loads. That is, if the permissible pressure of the drill used to create holes in the block is exceeded, there is a high probability that it will become cracked or even crack. To prevent such changes, an armored belt is installed; it also helps to avoid sliding and deformation of the blocks, which is caused by uneven pressure total weight.

What you need to know

The functions of the Mauerlat are to connect the building frame and the rafter system, as well as to divide the load from the roof structure along all walls. Mostly wood is used to make fasteners. The best option is a timber made of hardwood, the surface of which is coated with an antiseptic composition.

It is desirable that the fastening of the Mauerlat to the aerated concrete wall be continuous along the entire perimeter of the wall structures. For fixation individual elements a straight lock of suitable size is used. To ensure rigidity, nails are driven in; as a result, the beams form a single system for installing rafters, connected to adjacent elements. The bars must be with inside masonry, while there should be at least 5-6 cm to the outside. To support the Mauerlat, a brick parapet is made along the outer edge of the wall, the individual parts of which are fastened with a direct lock.

Methods for attaching Mauerlat to aerated concrete walls

It is possible to use several techniques suitable for different conditions:

fixation with studs built into the masonry;
anchoring based on armored belt;
fastening the Mauerlat to aerated concrete with wire.

In the latter option, the wire is laid between the bricks in such a way that there is a middle part, A external sides were outside. The length should be sufficient to freely thread through the beam and then tighten it. The number of strappings must correspond to the number of rafters. Using metal wire, the Mauerlat is then secured to the wall.

Reinforced belt

Fastening the Mauerlat to aerated concrete with an armored belt is the most preferable, since the blocks have an insufficiently dense structure and the difficulty of installing fasteners of any kind. It is worth noting the advantages of using a reinforced belt. First of all, this is leveling the upper part of the walls and strengthening the entire structure of the house; when arranging it, clamps for the Mauerlat are created in advance. The easiest way to implement it is to use U-shaped block elements in the form of a gutter along the perimeter of the external wall structures, and there should be no interruptions. Next, a cut is formed on the corner parts. To assemble the frame, reinforcement with transverse jumpers is used, then it is laid in a gutter and then poured concrete mixture. To ensure solidity, the mass is poured in one go. Before that on reinforced belt anchors with wire are secured. Special meaning has careful level matching. The studs are also fixed on the frame along a line in accordance with the tensioned cord, in a vertical position. Just as in the case of using steel wire, the number of rafter legs and anchor clamps must match. It is necessary to first determine the optimal location of the elements in order to avoid coincidence with the places where the rafters are fixed.

Fastening the Mauerlat to aerated concrete using studs

This option is optimal for small buildings and roofs that have a lightweight structure, when there are no significant loads on the roof and walls. There are two types of studs: these are bolts that form single design with a steel square, or elements in the form L-shaped. They are secured by laying the blocks several rows before the top, and the length should be enough for the lock nut and the thickness of the bars. The process is similar to the anchor method: the timber is put on studs when the masonry hardens and is fixed with nuts. There are also other methods of attaching the Mauerlat to aerated concrete, but they are used less frequently due to their lower reliability.

Sufficient rigidity and reliability of fastening is achieved by tying the bolts to the frame and additionally walling them with concrete. It is enough to put the power plate on the studs and tighten it to the blocks using nuts.

If it is necessary to attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt, monolithic plugs and pillows in the walls are used. Their dimensions should be within 400 mm, they are recesses with a structure made of thin reinforcement or metal rods, and it is on this that the anchors are fixed.

Peculiarities

The use of anchors and studs requires preliminary creation of holes. A number of difficulties may arise here. For example, the fasteners may not be level enough, even if a cord and level are used; the most difficult thing to work with is liquid concrete. First of all, the exact location of the fasteners is set; points are marked on a board with a flat surface upper parts bolts, subsequently they are transferred to the Mauerlat, in which the corresponding holes are drilled. Next, the beam is fixed to the wall. The base of the rafters is fixed with bolts; washers and nuts are additionally used.

Fastening the Mauerlat to aerated concrete should be carried out after selecting the fastening method and preliminary planning of the number and locations of the fasteners. First of all, reliable insulation is formed between concrete and wood. This is necessary due to the development of intensive rotting of the wood; to prevent this process, waterproofing material is used, laid in two layers. It can serve as modern options, and the usual ones, such as polyethylene or roofing felt.

When using wire, it is enough to make holes at a distance of no more than 35 cm for all fasteners, thread the wire, and twist the ends in such a way as to obtain the maximum connection between the wall and the Mauerlat.

It is worth noting that saw blades should not be used with an angle grinder, since this tool not suitable for wood. Failure to comply with this rule may result in injury during operation.

Sliding Mate

The installation of the rafters is carried out after the Mauerlat is tightly secured. Rafter structure can have hinged or rigid fixation, selection suitable option depends on the requirements that must be met by the mounting points of the Mauerlat to aerated concrete, the general configuration and type of structure (hanging or layered).

The hinged version can have different interfaces. The most common is a rigid mount, with no possibility of displacement or rotation. A sliding coupling is also used to ensure the beam moves and rotates in relation to the beam. Last option reduces thermal expansion of wood and shrinkage of the building, all of which prevents the transfer of thrust loads to wall structures.

Three techniques are used to create a sliding mate:

the use of a special metal fastener to connect the rafters;
moving the beam beyond the walls and fixing it with a plate;
creating a groove in the rafter board and installing it on the mauerlat using a corner, staples or nails.

Hard mating

Concrete and wooden buildings, as well as structures made of timber. Due to the fact that both frame and timber houses are characterized by noticeable shrinkage, in the absence of the possibility of simultaneous displacement of the building frame and roof, there is a possibility of significant stress causing damage to the structure of the walls and rafters. To create a rigid connection, support bars with a length of within 1 meter are required, fixed to rafters, nails and steel angles. The rafter beam with the beam must rest against the Mauerlat structure in accordance with the pressure line. This helps prevent perpendicular displacements. Angles and nails eliminate lateral movement, and the latter must be driven in at an angle on both sides, so that they intersect in the beam. A third nail is driven through the beam, which should have a vertical direction.

Conclusion

Attaching the Mauerlat to aerated concrete has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account when arranging, in this way problems with the operation of the roof can be prevented. In the absence of experience and relevant knowledge to create a project and subsequent installation of a rafter system, it is advisable to contact professionals who guarantee reliable roof, which long years will protect the house from cold and precipitation. During construction, you should not save at this stage of work, as this may cause additional financial investments and time costs.