The so-called “eurolining”, in contrast to the usual wooden lining, manufactured according to the European standard DIN 68126. Modern technologies wood processing gives it a natural and environmentally friendly safe material increased moisture resistance, extend its service life and greatly facilitate installation.
Required Tools
In order to correctly fasten the eurolining without the help of professionals, you will need:
- hammer drill,
- electric jigsaw,
- drill,
- hammer,
- ruler with level,
- mounting thread,
- wood screws,
- clampers.
How to calculate area and volume
The coverage area is calculated based on the working width of the panel, equal to 88 mm. And if, as a rule, there are no difficulties with the ceiling area, then the surface of the walls, for ease of calculation, is divided into separate rectangles.
One of the sides of the resulting sectors must correspond to the length of the board. The other will have an arbitrary value, depending on the location of the window or doorway.
Attention: if you use in the calculations not the working, but the actual width of the board, equal to 96 mm, the error will be as much as 7%.
Installation of eurolining
There is a simple and does not require home handyman special qualification instructions. It outlines step by step how to properly attach eurolining. The manual includes several points - from preparing the walls to finishing.
You can look at the process in detail using the video tutorial:
Preparation
Before installing wooden paneling with your own hands, you must first arrange the optimal electrical wiring diagram in the room. Wires that after completion finishing works will be hidden under panels, placed in special channels (corrugated), made from non-flammable material.
Packages with boards should be opened and kept at room temperature from 24 to 72 hours. Such acclimatization is necessary for “getting used to” natural material to the microclimate of the room, humidity and temperature.
Subsequently, seasoning the wood will help to avoid shrinkage or, conversely, expansion of the panels at the joints. How much will change over time appearance sheathing also depends on how the eurolining is secured.
Since the panels are made from solid wood, they differ noticeably from each other in color and texture. Therefore, even before installation, it is recommended to select the most effective sequence of boards, depending on the chosen laying direction.
The direction, as is known, can be:
- horizontal,
- vertical,
- diagonal
- or combined.
Attention: when finishing the ceiling, placing the panels along the rays of light falling from the window allows you to visually increase the volume of the room. A transverse arrangement will visually shorten the room.
Installation of sheathing
- Sheathing boards are attached to supporting rails with a cross-section 20X45 or 30X45 mm.
- The type of wood is not decisive for the manufacture of sheathing. The main thing is that it is artificially dried material.
- The recommended distance between slats is 0.4-0.8 m.
- Correct installation is checked using a level, as in the photo:
The direction of the lathing depends on how the eurolining is attached:
- with vertical cladding, the slats must be installed horizontally - from wall to wall. It is better to start from the top, gradually moving down;
- When the panels are horizontal or diagonal, the slats are attached to the floor and ceiling.
Thermal insulation
You can use mineral wool as insulation when covering a room with your own hands. It perfectly fills the space between the wall and the lining.
If additional vapor or waterproofing is necessary, a water-repellent film is stapled over the cotton wool - with the silver side facing inward. As you can see in the photo, this can be Izospan, Tyvek or similar waterproofing materials.
Laying heat and waterproofing layers
Kleimers
Eurolining is fastened using hidden clamps - clamps. Such fasteners are not noticeable from outside, it does not interfere with the expansion or shrinkage of the tree, and helps to avoid splitting of the panels. Galvanized steel, from which fasteners for eurolining are made, is reliably protected from corrosion.
Clamps are sold in sets of 100 or 200 pieces along with self-tapping screws or galvanized nails. Approximately 20 clamps will be needed per square meter of eurolining.
The price of packaging depends on the completeness. When purchasing, pay attention to the thickness of the plate, the presence of coating and the elasticity of the retainer.
Clamps for eurolining
Particular attention is paid to securely fastening the first panel with self-tapping screws. Next, the protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the board, and its base is nailed or screwed to the supporting rails.
Each successive plank with its tenon fits into the groove pressed by the clamp, covering fastener. The last board is cut and adjusted to the required size.
Attention: if the fastening of the eurolining is horizontal, the planks are placed with the tenon facing upward to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the grooves.
Finishing
Upon completion of the sheathing, it is recommended to treat the surface with an antiseptic, which will protect the wood from rotting and fungus. If desired, you can use stain or wax to brighten the wood texture. A coating made with matte varnish looks good in the interior.
Conclusion
As you can see, for a home craftsman it will not be special labor figure out for yourself how the eurolining is attached. The advantages of the workflow include ease and speed of installation. In addition, after completion of work, a minimal amount of garbage and waste remains in the room.
Some people believe that there is no difference between lining and eurolining - and this is an erroneous assumption. In fact, these concepts have many similarities, but there is also a difference, just one, but it can be called significant.
The fact is that eurolining, unlike conventional wood panels, is manufactured according to European standards, namely DIN 68126. Such panels are high-quality, waterproof and durable material compared to analogues, which are carefully checked during manufacturing.
Tools
It is possible to fasten the eurolining yourself; there is nothing particularly complicated in this process.
List of tools needed when working with lining:
- fasteners closed type(these include clamps);
- , used for attaching hidden fasteners;
- perforator, drill, jigsaw, hammer;
- level used throughout the entire installation process.
Calculation of volume and area
Important! If in your calculations you use the actual width of the material, and not the working one, then the error in such calculations will be more than 5%.
Installing eurolining
To the question of how to properly fasten eurolining, you can answer the instructions, for which you will not need any additional knowledge and skills, the main thing is to follow the steps exactly and carry them out without deviations.
If you find it difficult to take advice aurally, but you perceive it better visually, then watch the video, which shows the entire process of installing wood panels in detail.
Preparatory process
If you decide to install and create a wooden structure with your own hands, then you should know some rules that will help you quickly cope with the task.
To start:
- spend everything electric wires and wiring that is necessary to provide electricity to a room or room, place them in special corrugations. They are made of material that does not burn, this will ensure the safety of living in such a room;
- Don't forget that anyone finishing material needs acclimatization, which means that the room where you will spend construction works, it is necessary to submit the material one day before the start of the work process.
If the question arises - how to fasten the eurolining, then in the instructions you will find all the answers, including a list fastening elements, which will be needed for such a process. It should also be taken into account that the sequence of arrangement and direction of the panels affects the appearance of the entire structure.
Eurolining can be located:
- horizontally,
- vertically,
- diagonally,
- combined arrangement.
Advice! If you visually want to increase the volume of space in the room, then the material on the ceiling should be located along the window.
Installing the sheathing
- The sheathing is made of small bars, onto which it will subsequently be attached;
- The material of the beams does not matter, the main thing is that the wood is saturated protective compounds for the durability of the entire structure;
- The frequency of fastening the sheathing beams should not exceed 0.8 meters;
- All fasteners must be checked constantly using a building level (photo below).
The sheathing is installed depending on how the eurolining is attached:
- If the eurolining is placed vertically on the wall, then the sheathing should be horizontal;
- If the sheathing material is attached to the wall horizontally or diagonally, then the sheathing must be vertical.
We insulate the walls
To keep the room you decide to cover warm, you can insulate it yourself. Insulation must be installed before you begin installing the eurolining - between the wall and the sheathing.
If the room must be isolated from water and moisture, it is necessary to use, in addition to cotton wool, a special film that will serve as protection against water and moisture. The photo below shows the method of its application.
Hidden fasteners
Eurolining can be fastened with various fasteners: nails, clamps, self-tapping screws. The best option from those listed are clamps, because this type of fastener is considered hidden.
Another advantage of the selected element is that the fasteners for eurolining are completely protected from rust, because the material from which it is made does not lend itself to a process such as corrosion.
If we consider the cost of all fastening materials, then we can say that the highest price is the clampers, but the result with the use of such elements is better.
Do not forget! If the eurolining is fastened horizontally, then the tenon on the panel should be at the top, but not vice versa.
The difference between “eurolining” and wooden lining is that it is produced according to the European standard DIN 68126. Improved and modernized wood processing technologies make this environmentally friendly and safe material highly resistant to moisture. Significantly simplify installation and extend service life.
To install the eurolining yourself correctly you will need necessary tools:
- electric jigsaw;
- ruler with level;
- hammer;
- perforator;
- wood screws;
- mounting thread;
- drill;
- clampers.
You can calculate the coverage area using the width of the working panel, which is 88 mm. Difficulties with the ceiling area arise quite rarely, but for ease of calculation, the surface of the walls is divided into separate rectangles. The length of the board should be equal to one of the sides of the resulting sectors. Depending on how the window or doorway is located, the other side will be of arbitrary size.
Be careful when using in calculations not the working width, but the actual width of the board, which is 96 mm; its error will be 7%.
Eat simple instructions, which does not require a specific classification of the master. It describes in detail how to properly secure the lining. It includes several points - from wall preparation to final finishing.
PREPARATION
Before you install wood paneling you need to do it indoors in advance best option electrical wiring. After the finishing process is completed, the wires will be hidden under the panels. These wires are placed in special channels called corrugations, which are made of non-flammable material.
Boxes with boards must be opened and kept in this condition for 24 to 72 hours. This is necessary so that the material can get used to the given climate, temperature and humidity in the room. As a result, shrinkage or expansion of the panels at the joints can be avoided.
The appearance of the lining will change over time depending on how you fasten the eurolining. The differences in color and texture are very noticeable, as they are made from solid wood. Therefore, before installation, you need to select the most suitable sequence of boards, it depends on the chosen laying direction. Directions can be: diagonal, vertical, combined and horizontal.
Attention: when finishing the ceiling, panels located along the incident rays of light from the window can significantly increase the volume of the room.
INSTALLING THE LATTING
- It doesn’t matter what type of wood is used for the sheathing, the main thing is that this material is artificially dried;
- Sheathing boards are attached to load-bearing slats with a cross-section of 20 by 45 or 30 by 45 mm;
- Using a level you can check the correct installation;
- The distance between the slats should be 0.4-0.8 m.
The direction of the lathing depends on how the eurolining is attached:
- The slats are attached to the ceiling and floor in a diagonal or horizontal position;
- It is necessary to install the slats horizontally with vertical cladding, from wall to wall. It's better to start at the top and gradually move down.
THERMAL INSULATION
If you are sheathing the room yourself, use mineral wool as insulation. Cotton wool fills the space between the lining and the wall well.
For additional hydro- or vapor barrier, a water-repellent film is attached on top of the wool with a stapler, with the silver side facing inward. This can be Tyvek, Izospan or other waterproofing materials.
KLEIMERS
Clamps are hidden clamps that are used to secure eurolining. From the outside, this fastener is invisible, does not cause the wood to expand or shrink, and helps to avoid splitting of the panels. Fasteners for eurolining are made of galvanized steel, which is located under reliable protection from corrosion.
Galvanized nails, screws and clamps are sold in sets of 100 and 200 pieces. About 20 clamps are needed for one square meter eurolining. The price of the package depends on the completeness. When purchasing, pay attention to the elasticity of the retainer, the presence of coating and the thickness of the plate.
Pay attention to the first panel when fastening with self-tapping screws. Then the protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the board, and the base is screwed or nailed to the supporting rails. Each subsequent strip and fastener fit into the groove pressed by the clamp with its tenon, covering it with itself. The last board is adjusted and cut to the required size. Hitting the end with a hammer if the boards are joined with some force is not recommended. Hitting with a hammer can split a tenon or groove. In these cases, a piece of slats is placed under a hammer.
Attention: if horizontal mount eurolining, then place the planks with the tenon facing up to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the grooves.
FINISH
When you complete the sheathing, treat the surface with an antiseptic; it protects the wood from fungus and rot. To brighten the wood texture, use wax or stain. The interior looks beautiful with a matte varnish coating.
Let’s conclude that it won’t be difficult to figure out for yourself how the eurolining is attached. The good thing about the workflow is that installation can be done quickly and easily. And another plus is that at the end of the work there is very little waste and garbage in the room.
Lining is an excellent universal material for final finishing. ceiling surfaces, internal and external walls. This cladding is also perfect for finishing door leaves in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern each time.
What particularly impresses is the ease of working with this material. You can easily handle clapboard cladding on your own.
But first you should always use teaching aid. This could be an instruction for installing the lining with your own hands.
Using instructions
Detailed instructions are one of the most best helpers in the process of learning any business. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is beneficial, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Sheathing wood panels belongs precisely to this category.
For greater understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, as an additional visual material A photo of the installation of the lining would be suitable. And of course, one cannot help but ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.
It is important to take advantage of everyone educational materials study all the details, master the technology. Then, already confident that no problems will arise, you can calmly begin work.
Stages of cladding
Step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists of performing the following steps:
Execute preparatory work. The lining is being prepared for installation. Impregnated with special compounds such as antiseptic and fire retardant. For subsequent processing, use stain or paint of the required color.
After the paint composition has dried, a lathing made of wooden slats or a beam with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. The fastening spacing of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation slab. To fasten the slats, screws or self-tapping screws are used.
The position of the slats or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the casing depends on this.
The installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. This is the basis for the initial procedure for attaching the frame.
Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Horizontal installation Do-it-yourself lining makes the room seem more spacious.
In the resulting cells, when using timber, heat-insulating slabs are installed. Upon completion of the work, the entire working area is covered with plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.
The final stage is finishing wooden panels. The room takes on a finished look.
Technology correct installation lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is strictly observed during the entire period of work.
The process goes in the following order:
- wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
- the paneling is attached to wooden blocks or slats. The grooves are positioned down. To make the panels even, make a bottom adjustment using a trim piece wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the sheathing and the floor.
Differences in fasteners and their characteristics
Fasteners are used for fixation. The tenons of subsequent sheathing elements are inserted into the grooves and secured with specially selected parts. These can be staples, clamps, or regular nails and screws. Each of these elements of rigid fixation has its own meaning.
Nails driven into grooves are the most accurate, almost invisible type of fastening. The clamps are characterized as high-quality fixation. Staples require use mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.
Technique for aligning panels
The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. Along the line of its joining with the corner they lay decorative plinth. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out to be a very beautiful appearance.
A similar finishing with plinths is carried out along all lines where the wall surfaces meet the ceiling, along wall corners and protrusions.
The procedure for covering the ceiling
Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The only difference is in the initial order of the panels.
Layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows that appear between the facing elements are hidden.
Photo of lining installation
In this article, we will tell you about the stages of installing the lining and explain how to make a competent selection of materials. You will also learn the difference between installing lining on walls and installing it on the ceiling.
Preparatory stage
This stage is only needed if wooden lining () is used. Then, before you start working with the material, you need to let it stand in the room for at least a day - the wood should dry out and acquire room temperature. Only after this can you cut the lining required length. If this time is not maintained, the boards may not fit tightly to each other.
For this purpose, take a film made of polyethylene, foil or roofing felt. The installation of this material is carried out on slats, which must first be nailed to the wall. The width of the slats is taken less than 3 cm, and they are nailed to the wall in increments of 1 meter. Small holes are punched at the bottom and top of the vapor barrier to improve ventilation.
Important! This stage is not strictly necessary, but is highly desirable for premises exposed to high humidity from the street side.
How to make sheathing for lining
Using a screwdriver, we install slats with a cross section of 20×40 mm horizontally in increments of 40-50 cm, regularly checking with a level whether they are installed correctly. Using slats allows you to level the wall (so that the boards fit comfortably), as well as create a gap between the wall and the lining, which is needed to create ventilation.
If the wall is uneven, then you need to put something under the sheathing (or take a thicker sheathing). The mounting wedge, a piece of wooden beam or plywood. The sheathing is secured with long-length self-tapping screws and dowel nails. The bottom slats are 5 cm from the floor, since the bottom will be attached floor plinth, and the top ones - the same amount from the ceiling.
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Installation of the sheathing should also be done around openings, windows and doors. It is worth noting that the battens are made of plastic and metal. More information about installing the sheathing can be found here:
Combination of sheathing and vapor barrier
If a vapor barrier was not used, then the sheathing is installed directly to the wall.
If it was used, then the fastening of the sheathing slats depends on how exactly the vapor barrier was attached: if the slats on which the vapor barrier was attached were vertically fixed, then the sheathing slats should be fastened horizontally and vice versa. The sheathing is fastened to the slats on which the vapor barrier is located using long self-tapping screws.
Insulation is placed in the resulting space. It is usually used as insulation mineral wool. To prevent the insulation from sagging over time under the influence of moisture, it is advisable to secure it with polypropylene twine, which is usually attached to wooden slats using a construction stapler.
You can also install another layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation, which should be secured rough side to the insulation. This is not necessary, but it is highly advisable for a room whose walls may be exposed to moisture. Sometimes (especially when covering the outer part of buildings with clapboard), another sheathing is installed on top of the insulation.
The sheathing should be located both around window and doorways. You can also use plastic or metal sheathing.
Advice! If the room is warm enough, then installing insulation is not necessary. When using MDF or plastic lining Often, insulation is not taken at all; communications are placed in the space between the sheathing and the lining.
Installation of the first wooden lining
The first lining is attached to the wall vertically from the corner of the room: a hole is made at the beginning thin drill, and then secured with self-tapping screws along the entire height.
Info! If a wooden block-house lining is attached, then the installation of the first lining begins horizontally from the top of the room, and such lining must be constantly leveled to a stretched line or a horizontal level.
If a plastic lining is attached, then the first lining is fastened together with the molding (plastic strip).
It is worth noting that plastic PVC The lining differs from the well-known PVC panels in the absence of a seam when connecting (PVC panels are sometimes called seamless polymer lining). Therefore, PVC lining is attached to the wall in almost the same way as PVC panels are attached, except that each plastic piece is stapled to the sheathing.
Methods of fastening and how to fasten the lining
There are several options for how to properly fasten the lining: using clamps, self-tapping screws or nails. Best option(albeit longer and more expensive) - installation using clamps. Because in this case, the surface of the lining does not deteriorate, and, if necessary, it can be dismantled without damage.
How to attach lining to clamps
A clamp is installed in the groove of the installed lining. It is pushed into the groove of the lining with a hammer and then nails are driven into the holes of the clamp.
This clamp fastening of the lining is quite strong. Installation of the next one will be carried out in the same way: a new one is inserted into the groove of the fixed lining, carefully hammered in (so that there are no gaps between the boards) and again secured with clamps.
How to nail lining with nails or self-tapping screws
The fastening method using nails or self-tapping screws, unlike the previous one, “injures” the material.
Nailing of the lining with the help of finishing nails (with a small head) can go from the front part of the board obliquely from the longitudinal tongue (but not in the middle, otherwise cracking may occur).
This method has one more disadvantage - nails or screws will be visible on the front surface.
You can nail the ridge of the lining board if it comes with an offset profile. In this case, each subsequent board will cover the attachment point and it will not be visible.
Important! Regularly check with a level that the lining is installed level. There is no need to fit the boards very tightly together, otherwise they may swell when exposed to moisture and move away from the wall.
Installation of fittings
After the lining is installed, you need to close the edges. A plinth or fillet is best suited for this. This element is fastened to the wall using small nails.
If plastic lining was used, then the fittings sit on glue.
Lining surface treatment
This stage applies only to wooden lining as it must be covered special composition, protecting against insects and moisture. For this purpose, antiseptics, bio-moisture protective compounds are used, and sometimes flame retardants are used - a composition that reduces the likelihood of ignition. With the help of coating you can give various shades(varnish is used for this), and it should be updated every few years.
Features of fixing lining to the ceiling
If the frame on which the lining will be attached is wooden, then creating such a frame is almost the same as lathing on a wall. In this case, the distance between the slats of such a frame can be made slightly larger.
If the frame is metal, then instead of lathing, more a complex system hangers on which the guide profile will be attached. Weight Limit In this case, the design of such a ceiling can be increased by a large number of suspensions.
As you have already seen, installing lining with your own hands is a completely feasible task that anyone can cope with with proper preparation and our step-by-step instructions. To conclude the review, watch the video. Good luck!
Differences between lining and eurolining
- Eurolining has the best quality wood
- Has a more complex profile
- Eurolining has a deeper tongue-and-groove fastening
- Has ventilation channels
- More expensive than regular lining
The process of attaching eurolining does not differ from covering it with ordinary lining, even though eurolining has higher requirements for board moisture and the quality of surface treatment, so pay special attention to this.
How to attach lining video
Wall decoration with clapboard
https://youtu.be/c7b-jUo1nTc
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic lining - video
How to properly attach the lining in a bathhouse
Wall decoration with clapboard is possible as standard in wooden house, V ordinary apartment, on the balcony, as well as in the bathhouse. Covering the steam room with clapboard is perhaps the best and affordable solution. Installing lining in a bathhouse has its own distinctive features. The best wood for a steam room is ash, oak, birch, aspen, pine, spruce, cedar or larch. Before covering the bathhouse with clapboard, you need to treat it with special antifungal agents (antiseptics) twice.
The process of attaching the lining to the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse does not differ from the standard one; you can nail the lining to nails or self-tapping screws, or attach it to clamps.
Important! After laying in a bathhouse, the lining cannot be coated with varnishes and paints.
You will find useful tips for laying lining in a steam room in this video: