Which garlic is best for planting? How to choose garlic for planting before winter? Ways to get a harvest

Purslane is a well-known, widespread weed all over the world, which has a number of qualities for which all gardeners unanimously hate it. One of them is ineradicability. Purslane is so resilient that even one seed can be the beginning of this weed taking over an area. To remove purslane from the garden and garden, patience, knowledge and precision in carrying out measures to destroy it are required. In this article we will look at methods of combating purslane on the site.

The first half of spring is stingy flowering plants. Yes, primroses are already pleasing, but there is a very special plant that you can’t help but be moved by. This is a perennial evergreen ground cover of aubrieta. I think those who saw the low cushions, or, as they say, curtains of this plant during flowering, probably wanted to have it in their garden. And I hasten to please you, aubrieta is a very unpretentious and easy-to-care plant. Although, there are some peculiarities.

Delicious lamb cabbage soup with sweet peppers, tomatoes, potatoes and, of course, cabbage! It takes quite a lot of time to prepare this dish, but this does not mean that you will have to stomp around in the kitchen all day. Prepare vegetables and meat - wash, chop, place in bowls. Then sauté the vegetables and add the lamb. When the soup boils, you can go about your business for about 1.5 hours, then add potatoes and cabbage and cook for another half hour.

If you have an apple tree growing in your garden, naturally you want to get as many tasty fruits from it as possible. Often, beginning gardeners believe that the more magnificent the tree, the greater the harvest. But that's not true. So that the apple tree gives the rich quality harvest In order for the fruits to be large and juicy, each branch must receive enough light and air. When the amount of light falling on the branches is reduced to 30 percent, fruit buds do not form on the trees.

Ferns are one of the categories that are actively gaining popularity. indoor plants. Their luxurious leaves with unique patterns and soothing, mysterious shades of green look so elegant that it is difficult to resist the beauty of ferns, even if they are not suitable place. Along with unpretentious ferns, they are becoming more common and rare, original views. And among them is a bizarre epiphyte polypodium with unusual leaves and colors.

Bigos in Belarusian - a hot dish from sauerkraut and meat, which is prepared in many countries: Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Ukraine and Belarus. Each country has its own cooking characteristics, but the base is approximately the same everywhere - a mixture of pickled and fresh white cabbage, pork belly and smoked meats. Bigos takes quite a long time to prepare, but the result is worth it. From not the most pleasant aroma You can easily get rid of stewed sauerkraut by following my recommendations.

Gardeners, waking up from hibernation, missed gardening work, and hands reach out to the tools. But it is important to approach the issue of pruning ornamental plants competently. It’s not for nothing that they say “measure seven times and cut once.” Our article will help you figure out how to give plants the right spring “hairstyles,” which of your green pets will be happy to respond to a new haircut, and for which garden residents it is better to wait a while with pruning.

Cucumbers are the favorite crop of most gardeners, so they grow on our vegetable beds everywhere. But quite often, inexperienced summer residents have many questions about their cultivation and, first of all, in open ground. The fact is that cucumbers are very heat-loving plants, and the agricultural technology of this crop in temperate climate zones has its own characteristics. We will tell you everything you need to know about growing cucumbers in open ground in this article.

May days They delight you with warmth and the opportunity to spend more time on the plots. But the long-awaited month of arrival of stable heat cannot boast of balance lunar calendar. In May there are periods favorable for work only in ornamental garden or only in the garden, are quite long, and there are quite a few days suitable for any plants. The lunar calendar for May 2019 requires planning and skillful distribution of planting and sowing times.

Snack cake- simple and tasty! This cake is from chicken liver with vegetables and delicious sauce will decorate a modest family holiday or Sunday lunch. Liver pancakes, also known as the layers of our cake, are very easy to prepare; liver dough is easiest to make in a blender. Pancakes are fried for several minutes on each side. The cream (sauce) for the snack cake is made from sour cream, mayonnaise and herbs. If you grind dill with salt, the cream will turn a light green color.

Despite the popularity of the popular nickname “bottle palm,” it is very difficult to confuse the genuine hiophorba bottle palm with its relatives. A real indoor giant and quite a rare plant, hyophorba is one of the most elite palm trees. She became famous not only for her special bottle-shaped trunk, but also for her very difficult character. Caring for hyophorba is no more difficult than ordinary indoor palm trees. But the conditions will have to be selected.

Warm salad with funchose, beef and mushrooms - delicious dish for the lazy. Funchoza - rice or glass noodles - is one of the easiest to prepare among its pasta relatives. Just pour boiling water over the glass noodles and leave for a few minutes, then drain the water. Funchoza does not stick together and does not need to be watered with oil. I advise you to cut long noodles into smaller pieces with scissors so as not to inadvertently snag the entire portion of noodles in one sitting.

Surely, many of you have come across this plant, at least as a component of some cosmetic or food products. It is “masked” under different names: "jujube", "unabi", "jujube", " Chinese date“, but all this is the same plant. This is the name of a crop that has long been grown in China, and was grown as a medicinal plant. From China it was brought to the Mediterranean countries, and from there jujube began to slowly spread throughout the world.

May chores in the decorative garden are always associated with the need to use every free minute as productively as possible. This month, flower seedlings are planted and seasonal decoration begins. But you shouldn’t forget about shrubs, vines, or trees. Due to the imbalance of the lunar calendar this month with ornamental plants It works best in early and mid-May. But the weather does not always allow you to follow the recommendations.

A close relative of onions is garlic. Of course, it has peculiarities of planting, care, storage and preparation for planting, just like any other plant. vegetable crop. But there is nothing difficult about growing garlic. We'll figure out. There are bolting and non-bolting, winter and spring varieties of garlic - it depends on biological features plants. Non-shooting garlic reproduces only by cloves, while shooting garlic also reproduces by aerial bulbs (bulbs).

Shooting varieties are winter varieties. They give a good harvest when planted before winter. Among the non-shooting varieties there are winter and spring varieties. Planting spring garlic in the fall leads to poor rooting of cloves, thinning of crops, and crop shortages. However, there are varieties that grow well in autumn and during spring planting.

The main thing when growing winter garlic is to create conditions for a good overwintering. This is ensured the right choice places for planting, timing of sowing, depth of seeding. The crop should be placed on fertile land with a flat surface, free of weeds, and not flooded by autumn or melt waters.

The best predecessors are crops that clear the field early, under which they bring organic fertilizers: cucumbers, zucchini, early cabbage, salad, legumes. Garlic is a good predecessor for all crops except onions, since they are affected by the same pests and diseases.

Preparing a bed for planting garlic

The soil in the garden bed is cultivated in advance so that it settles somewhat. Directly under plowing or digging, you can add humus (40-60 t/ha) and mineral fertilizers. The rate of mineral fertilizers per 1 hundred square meters: 30-40 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate, 15-20 g of potassium chloride. Saltpeter is not applied in the fall, only in the spring.

Preparation of planting material - garlic cloves, bulbs

To plant winter or spring garlic, three types of planting material are used:

teeth,
aerial bulbs (bulbs);
sets (one-toothed plants grown from aerial bulbs).

Only garlic heads with healthy cloves are selected. All diseased, shriveled or sprouted bulbs are discarded. Large or medium-sized cloves are the most suitable material for planting.

Cloves prepared for planting are pickled and disinfected with a 1% solution copper sulfate or 3% TMTD suspension for 10-15 minutes. If disinfection is not carried out, then it is useful to soak them for 12-24 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Such preparation promotes the health of planting material and protects it from diseases.

Planting garlic in the fall before winter - timing

In order for garlic to take root but not germinate, it must be planted before winter two to three weeks before the onset of a steady cold snap. Optimal time planting winter varieties of garlic before winter is the third ten days of October in Kuban. With more early boarding, for example, in September, the sprouted cloves go into winter with 2-3 true leaves. To prevent the leaves from being damaged by frost or cold winds, the plants are hilled, and in early spring transverse harrowing to free the neck of plants.

When planting later, the cloves do not have time to take root - there is a greater sparseness of the crops due to the influence of cold winds and frosts.

Check the dates for planting garlic with.

Aerial bulbs are sown in autumn or early spring. From them grows the so-called sets - these are not cloves, but small roundish onions. If you plant aerial bulbs in the fall, then most of them will shoot in the summer, but when planted in spring, there is no shooting, but round one-toothed bulbs (apples) are formed. They are planted in the fall, as they do not store well until spring.

Spring varieties are planted in early spring, as soon as it is possible to go into the field, since they are very demanding on soil moisture and low temperatures at the beginning of growth. When planting is delayed, the growth and development of plants is delayed, the yield is reduced, and the commercial quality of the products deteriorates.

Norm and scheme for planting garlic

Garlic is usually planted in rows, the distance between which is 20-30 cm. The cloves are placed at a distance of 6-8 cm, but this distance depends on their size: for large ones - the distance is greater, for small ones - they are planted closer to each other. One or two days before planting, the heads should be disassembled into teeth. If this is done, for example, a week before sowing or even earlier, then they will lose a certain percentage of germination.

How many cloves will be needed to plant, for example, 1 sq. meter of vegetable garden, it’s hard to say. The planting rate depends on the size of the cloves you are planting. Typically, agronomist experts cite the figure as 130-380 cloves per 1 m2. They get the first figure based on their average weight of one clove of 3 g, and the second - if it weighs 7 g.

Larger teeth produce larger heads. It is not worth planting cloves weighing less than 3 g, as small heads will grow from them.

At what depth should I plant? This depends, firstly, on the size of the cloves, and secondly, on the timing of planting.

In autumn, before winter, winter varieties are planted. Large cloves are planted no deeper than 5-7 cm. Smaller cloves are planted no deeper than 4-5 cm. But whether planting in spring or autumn, you need to make sure that the layer of soil on top is at least 3-4 cm. You can cover the beds with a small layer of soil. layer (5-7 cm) of mulch - straw or dry grass.

Spring varieties are planted in spring. The depth of planting spring garlic is 4-5 cm. Also make sure that the layer of soil above the cloves is at least 3-4 cm. This will ensure optimal conditions For good rooting, to form heads of the correct shape.

Caring for garlic plantings, fertilizing

One of the secrets of growing garlic is feeding.

In early spring, after the snow melts, as soon as the first warm days arrive, it would be a good idea to feed the crops with nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea (1 tablespoon/10 liters of water). Approximately 5 liters of solution should be used per 1 m2.

In April, when the seedlings have grown, fertilizing is carried out twice, for example, this is mid and late April. The first fertilizing should contain more nitrogen. Its composition can be as follows: half a liter of chicken manure + 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska per bucket (10 l) of water. The second feeding should contain more phosphorus and potassium. The composition is as follows: 1 tbsp. spoon of double superphosphate + 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate + 1 teaspoon of urea per bucket (10 l) of water. We also consume approximately 5 liters of solution per 1 m2.

Be sure to loosen the soil between the rows the next day after fertilizing, loosen it again after a week or a week and a half, if the soil is dry, water it. Garlic loves loose soil without oxygen, which must be supplied to the roots and bulbs of the plant, so loosen the soil between the rows after each watering or after rain. By the way, if there is no rain, then watering should be done at least weekly. Water abundantly - 12-15 liters per 1 m2.

Mulching between rows can make the gardener's work easier. Mulch will retain moisture, and the soil under the mulch always remains loose.

In order for you to grow large heads, the arrows must be broken off in time. Try to break or cut them, and do not pull them up - this can inadvertently pull out the entire onion or damage it root system. Break the arrows when they have reached a length of 12-15 cm; the breaking point should be as close as possible to the rosette of leaves. If you break it at a shorter length, it will continue to grow - you won't get a large head.

Breaking out the arrows is a special agricultural technique that allows not only to increase the size of the head, but also accelerates their maturation.

By the way, do not throw away the broken arrows - they can be used when canning preparations, as a seasoning for food.

For example, add finely chopped garlic arrows to boiled potatoes, after you have drained the water, lightly dry them. Add butter or sour cream, stir and serve. Once upon a time, a long time ago, I read this recipe - it was called “Phytoncidal Potatoes”. Since then it has been one of our family's favorite dishes.

Finely chopped arrows can be added to boiled hot pasta or noodles - this is also tasty and healthy, especially in the spring, when vitamins are so lacking.

Harvesting garlic, when to do it

Usually at the end of July, garlic leaves begin to turn yellow. This means it's time to clean up. There is an unwritten rule among gardeners: it is better to remove sooner rather than later. Even a 5 day delay matters. When cleaning earlier, it is left for outdoors under a canopy for ripening. Don't pick off the leaves yet. At the same time, nutrients from the leaves enter the bulbs, which increase their mass. In this case, the heads are dense, covered on top with dry integumentary scales, and have a good attractive appearance. And if you are literally 3-5 days late with cleaning, then the scales covering the heads burst, the teeth crumble, and the head itself becomes loose. This garlic will not be stored for long.

But I would like to say separately about the timing of cleaning. There are many varieties that have different ripening periods, which means they should not be harvested all at once, but one by one. No matter how many times I talk to gardeners I know, almost no one knows what variety they grow. By the way, me too. But the differences in the variety can be seen by the color of the outer shell of the head and the number of cloves in the bulb. I try to sort the heads before planting in order to at least approximately plant the varieties separately.

How do you know when it's time to remove garlic from the beds?

Very simple. I always leave a few arrows, I don’t cut them all off when they start to grow. At first, during growth, the arrows bend bizarrely and are curly. But as soon as I noticed that the arrow had straightened and was standing vertically up, this was the first sign that it was time to dig up the garlic.

There is another sign - the flower heads, which have already formed bulbs, have burst - remove them for now.

Thus, knowing these signs of ripening, no matter where you live, you will never be late to harvest garlic on time. Although everyone's cleaning time will be different.

Ripening and storage of air bulbs (bulbs)

To next year you had your own garlic to plant, leave some of the plants with arrows in the garden, do not break them out. These plants with the arrows left should be left in the garden for another one to two weeks after harvesting the main crop. Then the arrows with air bulbs are cut off. You can tie them in small bunches and hang them under a canopy (not in the open sun) to dry. This is how garlic arrows with air bulbs are stored for 20-30 days. During this time, there is an outflow of nutrients from the arrows into the bulbs, they become covered with dense scales, become light straw or lilac color(color depends on variety). The bulbs become very large and the shell bursts. If you are going to plant them in the fall, before winter, then clean them and sort them by size. And if the bulbs are intended for spring-summer planting, then it is best to continue storing them in bunches until spring, since when cleaning and sorting in the fall, the bulbs are injured, can dry out, and lose their germination capacity. They should be stored in a cool, dark place.

Ripe, mature, well-dried heads with intact scales are selected for storage. Best temperature for storage at home - +18°C. It is better to store garlic in mesh bags, braids or cardboard boxes.

How can you get single clove garlic?

To obtain one-toothed bulbs, aerial bulbs can be planted in autumn or spring. It should be remembered that when sowing in autumn, some of the bulbs freeze and rot. Therefore, sparse seedlings are obtained. With early spring sowing, seedlings appear on the 10-20th day, usually amicably. Sowing scheme: distance between rows is 20 cm, continuous planting of bulbs along the row. Care consists of watering followed by shallow loosening and fertilizing with complex fertilizers. Single-toothed bulbs are removed as soon as the leaves begin to lie down. After ripening (10-12 days), drying, cut off the roots and dried leaves. Single-toothed mushrooms are stored at a temperature of 16-18°C, relative humidity 70-75%.

One last thing... Avoid planting garlic from greengrocers or supermarkets, as you risk causing serious contamination in the process of growing garlic. viral diseases to your site.

It's not that difficult to grow large garlic in your own garden. To do this, it is enough to know some secrets of growing large heads of garlic in the garden, which will help you get big harvest.

winter, planted in garden beds in autumn;
spring - for spring planting.

There are also 2 large groups: shooters and non-shooters. In the first, instead of seeds, small single-toothed bulbs are formed - bulbs, often used for planting. Mostly arrows produce winter crops, but sometimes this feature is also found in spring plants.

You can grow large garlic from winter varieties. However, such a harvest does not last long - by the end of winter the vegetable begins to deteriorate.

In summer garlic, the bulbs of which rarely turn out big size, the shelf life can reach two years.

Everyone decides which variety to choose depending on their needs: winter varieties are planted for sale, but spring varieties are planted for long-term use.

Landing dates

Planting dates depend on the variety:

winter garlic planted at the end of September – mid-October, so that before the onset of frost it has time to take root, but does not germinate to the surface. Only in this case will he be able to calmly endure the cold and produce a large harvest;
summer variety They begin to grow after the snow melts in early to mid-April. It tolerates cold and can germinate even at a soil temperature of 6 °C. Good garlic can be obtained upon early boarding. It should be taken into account that the head must form before the onset of hot weather, otherwise the bulbs of spring varieties will not be large.

Garlic needs to be planted and grown properly to produce large heads.

Growing large garlic in the garden

Garlic is a light-loving crop that does not tolerate wetlands.. Without knowing how to grow it correctly, it is difficult to achieve good results.

Several factors influencing the size of the future harvest:

Choosing a place: it should be open so that nothing blocks the sun necessary for the sprouts.
Bed dimensions: they should be wide enough (75 cm) for easier processing and high (8 cm) to prevent water accumulation.
Planting scheme: make fairly wide row spacing (20 cm) and a slightly smaller distance between planted cloves in a row (10 cm), so that in the future it will be convenient to care for the crop. Distribute tightly planting material– garlic – should not be used, since the forced struggle for space and resources will not allow it to gain the required weight.

Preparing the bed

One of the secrets is how to get good harvest– preparing beds for future plants. For winter crops, the site is carefully dug up 2-3 weeks before planting so that the soil has time to settle. If this is not done, then gradually, as the soil moves, the garlic cloves will become buried. This will negatively affect the size of the harvest and its shelf life.

For spring planting, the bed is also prepared in the fall so that the introduced elements have time to transform into a form digestible for sprouts. The soil is dug up to the depth of a shovel and fertilized if necessary. It is important to loosen the soil well so that there is enough oxygen in it. After digging, the area is leveled and disinfected with a manganese solution. Then cover with film and leave until planting.

Fertilizers need to be applied if the soil quality is not optimal for the crop. The soil should be:

neutral;
sandy loam;
loose.

Reduce soil acidity by liming (a glass of lime per 1 m2). Loosen the structure with peat, sawdust and sand. They increase fertility by adding fertilizers: 5–6 kg of humus per 1 m2, for the same area - 1 liter of manure and ash. Organics are replaced with complex ones mineral fertilizers in an amount of 30–40 g per 1 m2.

It is important that the soil in the garlic bed is fertile, air- and moisture-permeable.

Preparation of planting material

The secrets of growing large garlic include preparing the heads for planting. It is possible to confuse winter tines with spring varieties. It's easy to distinguish them:

the first are characterized by the presence of a central rod around which an even number of lobules are distributed: 4, 6, 8;
in the second, the number of teeth can be different, they often differ in shape, and there is no rod in the center.

To increase the immunity of future plants during preparation seed material The following points must be observed:

Discard all damaged, rotten and moldy heads.
Fused, small teeth and a small number of them (2–3) indicate the degeneration of the variety and low yield. Therefore, for planting it is better to take bulbs with large slices.
Before planting, disinfect the heads by immersing them in a solution of copper sulfate (1%) or potassium permanganate (1%) for 20–30 minutes. For the same purpose, use the following solution: 0.3 kg wood ash mix with water (2 l), boil, cool, separate the light part, into which the planting material is immersed for an hour.

Special preparation requirements for the spring variety:

a month before planting, the heads are sent to a cool place (-3 - +2 ° C);
within 24 hours, the seed material is removed and disinfected;
soak for 12 hours in a growth stimulator (potassium humate or Epine).

To speed up growth, spring varieties are germinated. To do this, the teeth are placed in a moistened fabric bag, which is wrapped in polyethylene for two days.

How to plant garlic

In order for garlic to grow large, certain rules must be followed when planting it.

Features of spring planting:

water only dry soil; garlic cloves are planted in wet soil without watering;
planting depth – 3 cm;
mulch with peat until sprouts appear.

Autumn planting rules:

planting is done on time: the cloves should take root, but not sprout;
To prevent the bulb from rotting, sand or ash is poured into the grooves, and the beds are not spilled;
Garlic should be planted to a depth of 5 cm (the larger the clove, the deeper) to reduce the risk of freezing;
after all necessary measures the soil is leveled and mulched with peat or rotted sawdust in a layer of at least 3 cm;
In winter, the top is covered with leaves or spruce branches (before snow falls), and during the melting period the shelter is dismantled.

Secrets of large garlic

Compliance certain rules growing crops will help increase productivity. Garlic grown in open ground will be large if:

plant it on time;
choose the right variety;
be sure to update planting material once every 3 years, growing from bulbs;
In bolting species, pinch off the arrows at the right time;
in spring varieties, tie leaves to stimulate the outflow of nutrients from the foliage to the head;
produce proper care for garlic (watering, fertilizing, mulching).

Compliance with crop rotation

the best predecessors for garlic in the country are green manure (alfalfa, clover, oats, mustard), strawberries, pumpkin, cucumbers, peas, zucchini, cabbage;
It will not be possible to get a high yield from nightshade crops (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants) and root vegetables (beets, radishes, onions, garlic): in this case, the likelihood of plant disease increases, as well as a decrease in the size of the heads.

If you plant the crop next to tomatoes or peppers, the harvest will be larger.

You should not sow a garden bed for several years in a row with the same crop, so as not to reduce the yield. Large garlic will only be produced if the planting location is changed annually.

Caring for garlic beds

Caring for growing garlic after planting involves mulching the soil. It allows:

maintain moisture;
reduce the amount of watering;
exclude weeding and loosening.

After the shoots grow to 20 cm in length, they are shortened to 5 cm: they can be cut off with a sharp tool or broken off, leaving a stump required length. The main thing is to remove top part- the rudiment of the future inflorescence. This will increase the supply of nutrients to the bulb.

20–30 days before harvesting (winter varieties - until mid-July, spring varieties - in the first week of August), the soil is raked away from the heads. This is done to redirect some of the nutrition to the bulb and thereby increase its size. The soil is removed special device so that the cloves are halfway out of the soil.

Watering

Since garlic is a moisture-loving plant, it grows well in moist soil. That's why important point In crop care, proper watering is important.

The basic rules are as follows:

Most of all, the vegetable needs moisture in the spring, when the root system is actively forming (the first 3 weeks after planting): during this period it needs to be watered abundantly (15 liters per 1 m2) every 5–7 days;
the volume and frequency of watering depend on the weather: at moderate temperatures, 10–12 liters are used per 1 m2 with a break of 1–1.5 weeks; in hot weather, 15 liters are poured over the same area with an interval of 5–6 days; and on rainy days, moisturizing soils stop;
after the procedure, it is necessary to sprinkle the bare heads with earth;
It is advisable to use warm water that has been left in the sun for some time.

Under no circumstances should overwatering be allowed, as in such an environment fungal diseases develop and the bulbs deteriorate.

Feeding

If you feed the plants in time, you can grow garlic with large heads. The winter variety is watered with urea in the spring after the snow melts and then fertilized as needed. Poor soils are enriched with nutrients 1–2 times a month until the end of the growing season.

When growing spring garlic, fertilizing is applied twice:

The first feeding is done in early spring with a solution of bird droppings (1 kg per bucket of water) or mullein (in the same amount per 8 liters of water).
In mid-summer, water with a solution of ash (a glass in a bucket of water).

The gardener must follow one important principle: the amount of fertilizer applied should be in moderation. Excess organic matter contributes to yellowing of the foliage and cessation of bulb growth. A large number of minerals will negatively affect their taste and quality.

Diseases and pests

A number of pests and diseases can ruin the pleasure of growing a crop. Garlic is attacked by nematodes, mole crickets, centipedes, onion moths and other insects.

Help save plants from pests traditional methods:

spraying twice a month with infusion of tobacco (0.25 kg) and ground pepper (2 tsp): pour 3 liters hot water, stand for three days, then strain, dilute with water to 10 l, stir liquid soap(2 tbsp.);
pollination with a mixture of pepper, tobacco and wood ash 2 times a month.

The plant is susceptible to the following diseases:

bottom rot (the bulb rots, the roots die, the foliage turns yellow);
false powdery mildew(the process of head maturation stops);
white rot (the above-ground part of the plant dies and the bulbs rot);
bacterial rot (teeth spoil).

To prevent the development of diseases, before planting, the seed is treated with a solution of ash, copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

Harvest and storage

Winter varieties ripen in early August. When the lower leaves turn yellow, begin harvesting. You cannot delay this, otherwise the heads will begin to dry out and crumble. This product may have a reduced shelf life.

Spring varieties are harvested at the end of summer - beginning of autumn, when the feathers turn yellow and begin to lie down, and the bulbs are already formed.

After collection, the plants are dried for 1.5 weeks, shaking off the soil. Next, the roots and part of the stem are cut off, leaving the stem 5 cm long for winter crops and 2 cm long for spring crops. The largest specimens are selected for seed material.

Storage conditions are as follows:

temperature: 16–20 °C for spring varieties, 2–4 °C for winter varieties;
humidity: average.

Features of growing garlic from bulbs

Garlic is considered a perennial (three-year) crop, but is often used as an annual, which is why it gradually degenerates. To avoid this, you need to regularly update the seed.

When planting winter bulbs, leave a few arrows on the sprouts grown from large cloves. Seeds are formed on them - single-toothed ones. When it is time to harvest, the plant is tied into a bundle and hung to dry. During this period, plastic substances flow to the bulbs from the green mass of the plant, promoting growth. After the stems have completely dried, they are carefully separated.

Bulbs are planted both in spring and autumn in pre-prepared soil. They are buried 3 cm, as they are very small. Dig out when the leaves begin to turn yellow. Then they dry it: first for a couple of days in the sun, then under a canopy. One-toothed trees planted in the fall will yield a good harvest with proper care.

If you haven't planted garlic this fall, now is the time to do so. Moreover, you can plant both winter and spring garlic before winter - it will grow larger and ripen earlier than that planted in the spring. Galina Kizima shares the secrets of planting garlic.

There is winter garlic, which is planted before winter, and there is spring garlic, which is planted in the spring. The difference between winter and spring garlic is that winter garlic contains a future flower arrow in the tooth, which is clearly visible on the cross section of the tooth in the form of a darker circle. Spring garlic does not bolt. It reproduces only by cloves.

Externally, they are easy to distinguish: the spring one has two rows of small teeth, and the winter one has one row, usually of 4–6 large teeth. Winter garlic, accordingly, produces a flower arrow in mid-summer, but the seeds ripen only in southern regions. But at the end of the arrow, at the end of July, small bulbs form, which are used for propagation of garlic along with cloves.

Spring garlic is propagated only by cloves, since it produces neither seeds nor bulbs. Spring garlic has one advantage over winter garlic: it can be stored well in the winter in an apartment.

Both spring and winter garlic work well only on fertile soil, moisture- and breathable, with an alkaline pH above 7. In addition, they need a sunny location, although they can tolerate slight shading.

Do not try to grow garlic on clay, soils poor in organic matter, or acidic soils, in the shade, on too wet lands.

Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, is not afraid of frost, and sprouts early in the spring, since after planting the garlic root system has time to grow well in the fall.

Winter garlic is propagated vegetatively, planting cloves in open ground in the fall. As a rule, gardeners use their own planting material, but sometimes they buy garlic for planting in stores or from individuals and, flattered by the beautiful appearance heads of garlic, buy southern garlic. After planting, it sprouts almost immediately, overwinters poorly and often rots in the soil during winter thaws or during prolonged autumn rainy weather. In my experience, southern and imported varieties of garlic are unsuitable for growing in the North-West region.

If the cloves have no signs of disease, they can be planted immediately. If there are any doubts about diseases, then soak the cloves for half an hour before planting in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" to prevent rot diseases.

Garlic in the North-Western region is planted simultaneously with tulips, in late September - early October to a depth of about 8 cm. If too late landings(end of October in the North-West region) the root system does not have time to grow, and the garlic sticks out of the ground when frost sets in early. But even in this case, if in the spring you bury it again in the soil by about 5 cm, it will produce a harvest, but somewhat later than usual.

For many years I have been planting garlic a little differently. I prepare the bed around mid-August, two weeks before planting. I add compost (a bucket) or peat mixed with sand and ash (a bucket of peat, a third of a bucket of sand, a liter jar of ash) for each meter of planting. I lightly dig with a Fokin flat cutter to a depth of no more than 7-8 cm. On the eve of planting, I water it well with the Fitosporin solution to disinfect the soil. I do not use potassium permanganate.

Before planting, which I do on August 25-27, I make holes 12-15 cm deep with a special peg. If you want to get larger teeth, make markings of 15x15 cm and even 20x20 cm. But I find that large teeth are inconvenient when using and I prefer to grow garlic that has teeth average value, so I make markings according to the 10x10 cm pattern.

In each hole I pour a tablespoon of coarse river sand, I lower one large granule of AVA fertilizer at a time, then I lower a large clove of garlic and again pour a tablespoon of sand into the hole. After this, I cover the plantings with soil. Sand introduced into the holes creates micro-drainage around the clove, and then around the growing head of garlic, and therefore relieves it from waterlogging.

Garlic does not sprout from such a great depth in the fall (with the exception of imported or southern varieties). But even if it sprouts, don’t worry, it will overwinter just fine. Garlic planted in August manages to grow a good root system over the long autumn and sprouts early in the spring. Plants stand like a powerful wall, strong, green and easily cope with any weather conditions. They do not require any feeding throughout the season. This type of garlic ripens a month earlier than the one planted in September-October.

Growing winter garlic

When garlic, planted in any way, has a flower shoot, it should be broken out immediately. No amount of twisting or tying the tops will get rid of the shoots, but it will harm the plant because the leaves stop working normally. In addition, the resulting damage and tears in the tissue become infected, which can lead to garlic disease.

One or two most strong plants must be left with the arrow so that the bulbs grow. As soon as the cap on the flower shoot bursts, the plant must be removed from the ground along with the head, shake off the soil from the roots and hang it upside down to dry. Then the bulbs can be removed. They will be needed to improve the health of their planting material.

Growing garlic from bulbs

Over time, garlic degenerates and needs to be renewed. To do this, you can leave a few large shoots of garlic in the summer, and sow the seeds from the ripened bulbs into the ground in the fall. Next year the heads will grow into one clove. We plant them before winter, and in the summer we get a full harvest.

After the lower leaves of the garlic have turned yellow, you can dig it up, preferably with a pitchfork rather than a shovel. The heads should be shaken off the soil and, tied into loose bunches, hung in the attic or loft to dry. When the nutrients from the leaves are completely transferred to the head, the leaves will dry out.

If at cleaning garlic, if you find mold or rot on it, or anything else suspicious, then clean the heads of excess scales. Immediately cut off the tops and roots, dip the heads in the Fitosporin solution for half an hour and only then dry them by laying them out in one layer in the attic.

You cannot dry onions, garlic or hazel grouse together with tulips, because due to the pungent smell of the bulbs, the tulips will not form a flower bud, and they will not bloom the next year.

How to store garlic at home

Plants need to cut off their roots, remove excess husks, braid them and hang them in the kitchen for winter storage. You can cut off the dried tops, leave stumps 2-3 cm high, and hold the bottom of each head over a candle flame to lightly scorch it. This will protect the head from premature loss of moisture. Then put the dried garlic into three-liter jars, tie the hole with a cloth and store it on the windowsills. There is no need to store garlic in the refrigerator - it usually spoils faster.

Sometimes it is recommended to store garlic, separated into individual cloves, in jars, sprinkled with salt. Nothing except unnecessary waste salt, this method does not work, because the salt takes all the moisture from the teeth, and they quickly dry out and wrinkle.

Growing spring garlic

Planting spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only the cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ripe for planting. Do not plant in waterlogged soil - the cloves may rot in wet and cold soil. So there is no need to rush, although garlic is cold-resistant and can be planted in the North-West as early as the end of April.

Caring for spring garlic is the same as for winter garlic. They have common pests and diseases with onions.

Spring garlic is dug up later than winter garlic, closer to autumn. But don't leave it in the soil for too long. As soon as the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, dig them up immediately, because the head may crumble into separate teeth in the soil.

You can store spring garlic right on top of the kitchen shelf or cabinet.

I, in contrast to the generally accepted practice of planting spring garlic in the spring, plant it in the fall at the same time as tulips. Then its teeth will be almost the same size as those of winter, and, as expected, in two rows.

Comment on the article "How to plant garlic before winter? Planting garlic: winter and spring"

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In order for garlic planted before winter to not only overwinter in the open ground without loss, but also to produce excellent results, it is necessary to approach the issue of choosing seed material with all responsibility. You can learn how to choose the right garlic for planting before winter from our article.

What kind of garlic can be planted before winter?

As you know, winter garlic can be planted in two ways: cloves and single cloves grown from airy bulbs. Planting garlic with seeds (bulbs) implies a two-year cycle for obtaining seed, that is, if you plant them before winter, you cannot expect a quick harvest. But at the same time, this method of planting garlic also has its undeniable advantages. Firstly, air bulbs do not come into contact with the ground, therefore, they are not infected by diseases or pests living in the soil. Secondly, this is an excellent way to renew seed material and avoid variety degeneration. Thirdly, planting garlic bulbs before winter can significantly reduce the cost of purchasing seed, because when planting garlic cloves, quite a lot of them are consumed.

Which garlic is best to plant before winter?

When choosing garlic for planting before winter, it makes sense to buy only local planting material collected within a radius of no more than fifty kilometers from the planting site. Wherein Special attention It is worth paying attention to purple-striped varieties, as they are less whimsical, have better winter hardiness and ultimately give best harvest. The heads of planting garlic should be large, free of damage or signs of spoilage, and all cloves in them should be approximately the same size. You should not plant heads that have only 3-4, even very large cloves, as this indicates the degeneration of the garlic.