What kind of paint is needed to paint a bathtub? How to paint a bathtub. Recovery methods. Enamelling. The pouring bath method, the benefits of coating and bowl preparation. Enameling process

Cracks in the enamel and yellow spots- not a death sentence for an old home bath. The former gloss and perfectly smooth surface can be restored. And it’s quite possible to do this on our own, without turning to the services of companies offering assistance in the restoration of bathtubs. How to paint the inside of the bathtub? There are several options at home. Let's try to figure out what is better: enamel, acrylic, bath in a bath or spray painting. Although the artisans, it seems, have already made their choice. They recommend that beginners who decide to paint a bathtub for the first time should opt for acrylic. Painting with enamel will require experience.

When to paint a bathtub

After several years of service, any bath needs updating. Yellow spots, smudges and rust may appear on it, which even the most powerful detergents cannot cope with. Moreover, in some places the enamel begins to crack. The owner has to choose: either change the bathtub or install it on its inner surface acrylic liner, the so-called bath in the bath. This technology is widespread in the world. But you can’t call it cheap - its cost is close to buying and installing a new bathtub. In addition, such work can only be entrusted to professionals who have experience and all the necessary equipment.

Bathtubs made of cast iron have a fairly long service life and are not exposed to rust; it would be a shame to throw away such a bathtub just because of the appearance of yellowness

At the same time, you can update the bathtub on your own and with relatively little money. financial investments. You can do this using:

There are many advantages to painting:

  • this option is the cheapest and simplest;
  • it allows you to experiment and change the color of the bathroom;
  • with it there is no need to dismantle the bathtub, and, therefore, there is no need to carry out cosmetic repairs in the room after finishing work.

Painting also has disadvantages:

  • if the work is done poorly, the paint will not last long - it will again begin to turn yellow and crack;
  • painting will not completely hide dents and chips;
  • The work process will be very lengthy, and during this time the household will not only have to give up water procedures, but also endure the smell of paint.

However, all this can be solved. The main thing is to strictly follow the work plan.

Preparing the surface for painting

Each bath requires a personal approach. Restoration work and preparation for it are no exception.

Preparing an iron bath for painting with enamel

Before painting, the bathtub must be prepared for work. Inner surface cast iron bath must be completely free of residual grease and traces limescale. To combat them, the most common alkaline agent is suitable. For example, the traditional Pemolux. On the contrary, it is recommended to refrain from using substances containing chlorine.

Product with a little added water:

  • Apply with a sponge to the surface of the bath and spread evenly;
  • remains in this form for 15–20 minutes;
  • after this period it is washed off.
  • electric drill or grinding machine;
  • medium-grain sandpaper;
  • a pair of gloves, a respirator and goggles that protect against dust.

A power tool will help you remove old layer paints

In this case, the power tool is unlikely to reach internal corners bathroom and drainage points. This is where sandpaper comes into play.

The result of the manipulations performed with an electric drill or grinder The surface should become matte and rough to the touch. There is not much left to do before painting begins:

  • fill the remaining cracks and chips;
  • vacuum the surface of the bathtub, clearing it of the smallest grains of dust;
  • rinse again, this time with an acidic solution;
  • allow to dry (if you need to speed up the process, dry the surface with a hairdryer).

All chrome and nickel plated parts should be removed to prevent exposure to harmful components.

Preparing a bathtub for acrylic painting

Acrylic painting also requires special preparation. Otherwise, within a few days after the work, an emergency may occur - the paint will begin to peel off. To prevent this from happening, you must:

  • conduct general cleaning in the room, clearing dust from the walls and ceiling above the bathroom, which will minimize the threat of tiny dust particles getting into the paint;
  • clean the bathtub itself from deposits, grease and dirt, especially problem areas for this you will have to use a grinding machine;
  • remove all areas with enamel beginning to peel off;
  • rinse and dry the bath thoroughly construction hairdryer, and then wipe with a napkin.

Getting moisture under the paint can ruin the whole job.

Even a minimal amount of water will be destructive and lead to irreversible processes. Drying the bathtub at the preparation stage should be given the closest attention. It is also important to ensure that after applying acrylic nothing falls into the freshly painted bathtub.

Experienced masters share very useful advice: You must remove from the bathroom in advance any small objects that may be accidentally touched.

How to paint a bathtub with enamel

In its properties, enamel is similar to glass-like coatings. When the bath is filling hot water, such paint does not heat up so much. And this quality is an advantage of the enamel, because it eliminates the risk of peeling due to strong heating.

To paint a bathroom (both cast iron and steel) with enamel, you don’t have to be a professional painter. Anyone can cope with this task House master. The main thing is to choose the right paint that is suitable for a room with high humidity. When choosing enamel in a store, it is important to find on the jar an indication of two main points:

  • high moisture resistance;
  • increased level of adhesion (or cohesion).

Enamel can be not only white. Those who love radical changes can choose something completely new color scheme- paint the bathtub instead of white in soft blue, soft pink or yellow.


Paint before applying to cast iron surface It is advisable to warm it up - this will increase its effectiveness

As a rule, manufacturers indicate on the cans whether heating of the paint is necessary or not. This can be done using a water bath by simply placing the jar in a container of hot water for about half an hour. All algorithms for preparing the composition for coloring are described in the instructions. Substances are added to the bucket not all at once, but one by one. In this case, the paint should not be prepared in advance, but right before painting, so that it does not begin to dry out. In just an hour, a bucket of paint may become unusable, and it will no longer be possible to lay it on the surface in an even layer.

When painting a cast iron bathtub, it is necessary to apply several layers of paint. It is advisable to have three of them. Each new layer is applied only after the previous one has set and completely dried. The second and third layers should begin in the place where the very first was laid. This way the paint will lie more evenly.

It is necessary to paint, wetting the brush abundantly, in vertical stripes from the bottom to the edge. Followed by rubbing to the sides.
A flat brush with natural bristles that will not leave streaks is suitable for this work. It is important to prevent bristles that have escaped from the brush from sticking to the bathtub. To do this, you should have tweezers at hand while working, with which you can carefully pick up the fallen bristles. You can’t do this with your hand, or even touch the surface to be painted.


Temperature changes are very harmful for fresh paint and high humidity

When painting with enamel, it is important to monitor the appearance of smudges. They can occur approximately 10 minutes after passing the brush over a specific area of ​​the bath. They need to be monitored and removed before they dry out.

During work, the door to the bathroom will have to be closed, and it is also better to do the same with the windows in the apartment. After all, air circulation while painting the bathtub is extremely undesirable. It can bring with it fine dust, which will ruin the whole job.

After the work, the bathroom must be closed for a day. It is advisable not to go inside for at least 10–12 hours. It will take 2 to 5 days for the enamel to dry completely. You should not use the bathroom until this moment.

It is better to take the first bath after a week or 10 days.

There's no need to rush. This has been proven by many years of experience, because baths by applying new epoxy enamel It has been restored for more than two decades.

Acrylic painting

Using acrylic, you can create a smooth enamel coating up to 4 mm thick on the walls and 6 mm on the bottom. It will be especially smooth and absolutely glossy when applying paint to the surface using the pouring method. This coating will not be slippery. In addition, it will receive protection from mechanical and chemical influences.

Among the construction advantages of acrylic are:

  • the strength of the hardened coating;
  • long service life of the material;
  • easy care - acrylic can be washed using detergents, they should not damage the surface;
  • the possibility of polishing, which may become relevant over time when small scratches appear on the surface of the bathtub.

Liquid acrylic has gained popularity among craftsmen relatively recently; it has been actively used for the restoration of bathtubs over the past ten years.

At the same time, the most difficult thing in the work, according to the masters, is preparing the paint. It is important to keep the ratio exactly acrylic base to another component - a liquid hardener. Their consistency differs greatly, so mixing the two parts can be quite labor-intensive.


To obtain the desired shade, a tinting paste is added to the polymer; only compositions that are compatible with each other are used.

Meanwhile, you need to mix thoroughly and very efficiently. So that hardened areas do not appear on the painted surface later. By the way, using a mixer when stirring the composition is not suitable. After all, it will not allow the part of the composition that is on the walls of the paint container to be mixed.

You can work with either a brush or a roller. It is best to give them a spiral direction - from the edges of the bath to its drain. Movements should be light, without pressure. The main thing is to prevent bubbles from appearing. They need to be noticed in time and removed immediately with a clean brush.

In addition, when painting, the appearance of drips and sagging is inevitable. Their formation should be monitored 3–5 minutes after a specific area of ​​the bathtub has been painted.

Another option for painting with acrylic is this: the paint is applied to the surface of the bathtub using a special plastic cup and an ordinary spatula. From a glass, the paint is evenly poured onto the walls of the bathtub, and the process is only slightly adjusted with a spatula, which is also useful for treating hard-to-reach areas, for example, the corners of the bathtub.


You can remove drips and sagging using a smearing brush stroke upwards

Painting with acrylic will take on average about 3 hours. You can start using the bathroom carefully within a day, provided that it has dried when the thermometers in the apartment showed no lower than +25°C. If the house is a little cooler, the first use will have to be postponed for another day.

It is important to remember that it is better not to use a washbasin located next to a painted bathtub for some time. After all, just a couple of accidentally arriving drops will immediately destroy all the work.

Using a spray can

It's less durable option. With such a bathtub repair, it is guaranteed to last only a year, and then problems in the form of yellow stains and chips may begin again.


The container must first be shaken: its contents will become uniform in consistency thanks to the metal ball inside

For professionals, this painting method has a number of advantages:

  • the employee does not need additional tools and equipment;
  • spray paint dries faster;
  • using a spray can you can achieve a perfectly flat surface - stripes and relief will be eliminated.

In addition, the choice of paints in cylinders is very wide, and they are suitable for bathtubs of any material. As for the technology, everything is simple: painting the bathtub must be carried out strictly according to the instructions included with the can.

All work is carried out wearing a respirator. At the very beginning, the craftsmen paint the most difficult places - hard-to-reach surfaces of the sides. Next you can start working on the sides and bottom of the bathtub.

To get a quality result, it is important to remember some rules for spray painting:

  • during operation it should be at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the surface to be painted;
  • painting should proceed smoothly and under no circumstances stop;
  • skipping sections and leaving something for later is strictly prohibited, since such squares and rectangles will stand out against the general background;
  • It is important to avoid smudges, because to eliminate them you will have to interrupt painting.

It is advisable to apply up to 3 layers of paint. This is done as the layers dry. Non-professional craftsmen are not advised to rush the process - the better the lower layers set, the longer the new coating will last. By the way, the layers should not be too thick. After all, the thickness of the paint will not affect the quality and degree of adhesion.

For those who are going to paint the bathtub using a spray can, it is better to immediately buy one in reserve from the store. Often, even with the most accurate calculations, just one thing is missing. And while painting the bathtub, there will, alas, be no opportunity to interrupt the process and go to the store again.

After painting the bathtub using a spray can, as with other painting methods, it is recommended to close it for a day. The paint should harden as much as possible.


Coating the bathtub with a new layer of paint will make its surface more resistant to microorganisms

To extend the life of the bathtub, the main thing is to take care of it and not forget about the simplest rules:

  • never soak laundry in it with washing powder;
  • do not wash it with aggressive detergents;
  • Do not leave a bathtub filled with water for a long time.

Replacing a bathtub is an expensive proposition that not every family can afford. Moreover, such a step will entail the start of a major renovation in the entire bathroom, which will result in much greater expenses and create many additional problems. Therefore, painting - best option in all respects: it will save your budget, the bathtub will delight you with an excellent view and will last for many more years.

This article will talk in detail about how to paint a bathtub at home with a detailed examination of the various stages of painting.

Almost every person at some point is faced with the need to renovate their bathroom. This room is used regularly for bathing, washing, washing, etc., so the bath may lose its original appearance over a fairly short period of time. appearance. In this case, you have to think about how to paint a cast iron bathtub.

Similar thoughts visited every person who was faced with the loss of an attractive appearance in their bathroom.

If you have sufficient finances, you can replace the bathtub with a new one, or install a shower cabin instead, but most often such a replacement requires refurbishment of the entire bathroom, which creates a large number of additional difficulties.

At the same time, instead of cosmetic repairs and replacement of the bathroom, you get a full-fledged major renovation premises.

It should also be noted that bathtubs made of cast iron have a fairly long service life and are not exposed to rust; it would be a shame to throw away such a bathtub just because of the appearance of yellowness. That is why the best way out of the situation is to paint a cast iron bathtub.

Choosing bath paint

You don't have to be an expert to understand that to paint a bathtub you need special bathtub paint - cast iron or another material.

The main manufacturers of bath paints are:

  • Dulux – currently undisputed leader in the field of paint and varnish coatings production. The product most suitable for the bathroom is “DuluxRealifeKitchen&Bathroom”;
  • Tikkurila is a well-known Finnish manufacturer from Finland.
    The ideal product for the bathroom is the Luja paint system, which includes a moisture-proofing primer and topcoats: semi-matte and semi-gloss;
  • Jobi is a well-known brand from Germany with excellent recommendations due to the meticulous German approach to product quality and affordable prices.
    In the bathroom, it is recommended to use “JobiWaschFest” - a particularly durable washable paint for use in difficult rooms.

Conventional paints, in addition to rather low resistance to moisture, also have a low degree of adhesion, which leads to paint peeling off the surface of the bathtub after a short period of time after painting. To avoid such consequences, special paint for cast iron bathtubs is used in the form of a three-component paint composition.

The paint components are mixed immediately before being applied to the surface of the bathtub, prepared in advance. After application, the paint dries with the evaporation of the solvent it contains, i.e. chemical calcination of the paint is carried out.

Today, construction stores sell not only white, but also blue or light green bath paint. These colors are preferred by most buyers, as they allow not only to decorate the bathtub, but also to disguise minor stains on it.

Preparing the bathtub for painting

Removing old enamel

After the choice of how to paint the cast-iron bathtub has already been made, we begin the preparatory work:

  1. First of all, fat and limescale deposits are removed from the surface of the bathtub.
    Alkaline detergents are usually used for this. Degreasing is also carried out after the old paint is removed.

Useful: you can check the quality of cleaning by simply wetting the surface of the bathtub.

If the wetting layer is smooth and no streams or drops of water are formed, then degreasing has been completed successfully.

  1. Next, the old enamel is removed. It can be removed entirely or by removing only upper layer, resulting in a rough bath surface.
    The enamel is removed using special tool equipped with abrasive attachments, such as an electric drill or sander.

Important: before using such tools, you should prepare goggles, a respirator and gloves to protect your eyes, hands and lungs from dust.

  1. In some places it is not possible to remove enamel with a drill; in this case, use hand tool (wire brush or sandpaper).

Applying paint

Applying paint

After cleaning the surface, thoroughly wash off all dust and dry it; you can use a regular hairdryer for this. The dried surface is primed and the paint composition begins to be applied.

Please note that during painting, all doors and windows must be closed for 5 hours after painting to prevent dust from entering the painted surface.

Useful: experts advise increasing this period to 24 hours, which eliminates the negative impact of temperature and humidity changes on the drying process of the applied paint.

About painting your own bathtub

It is quite difficult to unequivocally answer the question of whether it is worth painting and doing it yourself. Some people have no other options for solving the problem of a yellowed bathtub, some want to save money, and others are interested in experimenting.

Regardless of the specific reason, we should not forget that when painting a bathtub, you can only use special compounds, using the usual oil or alkyd paint will only worsen the situation.

Additionally, it is important to keep in mind that not every old bath can be repainted. For example, if in addition to yellowing there is also cracking of the enamel, it will not solve the problem. You will have to change the enamel layer, but this will only help for a short time.

In addition, it is clear that it is impossible to personally give a bathtub the same durable and high-quality coating as at the factory. Therefore, before performing staining, you should take into account that this procedure will have to be repeated after several years.

Important. Under no circumstances should you polish the walls of the bathtub. Those areas that did not need cleaning and remained as smooth as possible can be covered with Scotch Brite. It differs in grain size from P180 to P1000. Manufacturers have made it possible to easily determine its degree using different colors. Green (as hard as possible) is necessary to treat areas of the bath before applying putty. The red is used as a primer and the gray is used before the final coat of paint is applied. For perfect adhesion, each dried layer must be wiped with Scotch Brite.

In accordance with all of the above, before deciding to paint the bathtub, you should carefully weigh the pros and cons; perhaps replacing the bathtub will be a more preferable option.

Has your old bathtub lost its presentable appearance, but buying a new product is not in your plans? An excellent solution to this problem is to paint the bathtub yourself. You just need to prepare everything you need for work, read the manual and consistently follow each step of the instructions received.

First of all, prepare your safety equipment. You will need:

  • respirator. An ordinary “petal” will not work for this type of work. Buy a good respirator with a built-in organic absorber cartridge;
  • latex gloves;
  • apron;
  • flute brush. The tool must be made exclusively of natural bristles. Optimal size brushes – 7-10 cm. Brushes must not come into contact with anything greasy before starting work, including hands;
  • grinding attachment for electric drill and electric drill;
  • tweezers;
  • painting knife;
  • acetone. Solvent 646 can be used instead of cetone. The use of white spirit is unacceptable, as well as other solvents that contain saturated hydrocarbons;
  • rags. Any fabric that does not leave lint, for example, cotton, will do. Microfiber cloths also work great. These are usually used for wiping glasses.

What to paint with?

Can be used to paint bathtubs acrylic or epoxy paint. Epoxy enamels have been widely used for over twenty years. The disadvantage is that the technology for preparing the mixture and applying the finished composition to the bathtub material is quite complex.

Beginners should give preference acrylic paints. In terms of durability, such compositions are not inferior to epoxy enamels. Some difficulties arise during the preparation stage. acrylic composition, however, it is much easier to apply compared to epoxies. Acrylic also loses to epoxy in terms of cost.

Thus, if you have some painting skills, buy and use epoxy paint. If you just want to return your bathtub to a presentable appearance as quickly as possible, give preference to alkyd enamels.

Repair before painting

Quite often there are situations when the bathtub requires not only painting, but also real repairs. If your bathtub is leaky, follow these instructions.

First step. Prepare a piece of fiberglass. Instead of fiberglass, you can use women's tights. Select the size of the material so that it can cover the existing hole 4-5 times with a clamp on the sides.

Also prepare glue on epoxy based.

Second step. Wash your tights thoroughly, preferably in washing machine. If fiberglass is used, the material must first be boiled. Boiling will remove any remaining wax traditionally found on fiberglass. Boil for an hour and a half, draining a small part of the top layer of boiling water every 10-20 minutes.

Third step. Using a drill with a sanding attachment, sand the chip and approximately 15 cm of coating around it. At the chip site, all enamel must be removed. Grind around the damage so that the enamel smoothly runs down to the metal.

Fourth step. Collect dust with a vacuum cleaner and thoroughly degrease the treated surface using solvent or acetone.

Fifth step. Prepare epoxy-based glue and apply it to the grease-free area.

Sixth step. Apply a patch of tights or fiberglass to the damaged area, covering the chip by 2-4 cm on each side. Remove bubbles with an end brush. Allow the epoxy to cure completely.

Seventh step. Apply a second layer of epoxy and place a second patch on top with a gap of 2-4 cm in relation to the bottom patch. Apply up to 5 patches using this pattern.

Allow the epoxy glue to dry completely, remove the edges of the patches flush using sandpaper and proceed with further restoration work.

The method is extremely simple and very effective. If the “hole” is deep, you can pre-fill it with cold welding glue.

Preparing for work

Before you start painting your bathtub, there are a number of important preparatory steps you need to take.

Preparing the premises

Remember: solvents, paints and other similar substances contain various aggressive inclusions. Therefore, before starting painting and restoration work, remove everything from the room except the bathtub, toilet, sink and other earthenware items.

Wrap the washing machine thoroughly in polyethylene and always seal the cracks with adhesive tape.

Remove the shower and cover the taps with plastic.

Initial bath preparation

Clean the surface of the bathtub from any existing dirt. Any active detergent will help you with this. Place a line of this product at the bottom of the container. Moisten the mound with a little water to create a sort of slurry. Take a simple new sponge and spread the resulting mixture to the upper edges of the bathtub walls.

For maximum effective cleaning containers, you can use oxalic acid. Be careful and wear a respirator, gloves (preferably rubber) and an apron.

Leave the paste on the walls for about 10-20 minutes, rinse it off and fill the container with water to the brim. Hold the water for 20-30 minutes, drain it and begin abrasive processing.

Processing with abrasives allows you to make a smooth surface embossed. The resulting microrelief will contribute to much better grip paint composition with the treated surface.

Remove the trim from the overflow and drain holes. Take a drill with a sanding attachment and carefully sand the surface of the bathtub. Your task is to get rid of any kind of dirt and make the surface matte.

Run your fingernail over the treated surface. If it “stretches” - everything is ready. If the nail slips, continue polishing.

Additionally, you can check the bathtub with a flashlight - if the walls of the container give off shiny spots, the bathtub is not sanded well enough.

Final stage of preparation

Finally, the surface of the bath is removed from dust and degreased.

First step. Vacuum the bathtub thoroughly.

Second step. Dampen a rag with solvent and wipe the area around the drain holes. Proceed to the next step only after there are no traces left on the rag.

Third step. Return the drainage holes removed in the previous stages of work.

Fourth step. Pour about a liter of active detergent with an acid or alkaline base into the container and, with a clean household sponge, rub the product in an even layer to the upper edges of the container. Leave the bathtub with the applied grout for one and a half hours.

Fifth step. Fill the bath with water and leave again for an hour and a half. The container should become noticeably warm at this time. If the heat is low, add a little more detergent. Wait for the water to cool and drain it from the bathtub. Be careful - pull out the cork only by the chain; do not plunge your hand into the container. If there is no chain, tie a strong rope or fishing line to the cork in advance.

Sixth step. Refill the bathtub with water and leave for another hour and a half. It is recommended to repeat this washing 3-4 times.

Seventh step. Dry the empty bathtub using a hair dryer. It is not recommended to leave it to dry on its own - dust from the walls and ceiling will settle on the bathtub, which is extremely undesirable.

At the end, all that remains is to check the quality of the work performed. Open the shower and run the bath. If the liquid flows down in an even layer and does not come out in drops, the degreasing has been carried out efficiently.

Additionally, check the cleanliness of the surface. Wipe the bathtub with a cloth soaked in solvent. If there are no marks left on the rag you use, everything is fine. Remove the strapping of the drain holes and proceed directly to painting the container.

First step. Prepare the coloring composition according to the instructions on the pack. Depending on the chosen manufacturer, the composition of the paint will differ, so it is impossible to provide any universal recipe for preparing the compound.

If the manufacturer recommends preheating the base before adding hardener, preheat in a water bath. Do not add all the hardener provided by the manufacturer to the base at once - you simply will not have time to finish painting the bathtub. The base of the coloring composition must be divided into small portions of approximately 250 ml. First divide the hardener into the same number of portions.

After adding the hardener, all portions of the composition must be mixed as thoroughly as possible. Additionally, add 10-15 ml of regular dibutyl phthalate to each serving and mix thoroughly.

Second step. Start painting the container using a flute brush. Wet the brush liberally with paint and begin to cover the surface of the bathtub with vertical stripes from bottom to top. Once applied, rub each stripe out to the sides as far as you can. Apply the next strip so that the horizontal overlap of the rubbing is about 50%.

New brushes inevitably produce bristles. You cannot remove it with your hands. Use tweezers or a painting knife for this.

Apply the first coat of paint completely and leave it for 15-20 minutes.

Third step. Apply a second coat of paint. Start processing from where you started applying the first layer. Work in the same direction. This way you will get a coating with the most uniform structure.

Don't use the bathroom for about a week. The longer you can avoid getting the bathtub wet, the lower the risk of peeling. paint coating in future.

Acrylic is easier to work with than epoxy enamel. For DIY painting For acrylic baths, you can use not only brushes, but also rollers. Most the best option– paint from the edges of the container to the drain. Punch any bubbles that form with a brush. After the starting layer has hardened, apply a second coat of paint.

In general, the recommendations are the same as for finishing using enamel. The only difference is that their own plasticizers are used to prepare the acrylic composition. Otherwise, follow the paint manufacturer's instructions.

Bathing in an updated bath is a pleasure

Good luck!

Video - Painting a bathtub with your own hands

Over time, every bath, including luxurious and expensive ones, loses its attractive appearance. This happens because over the years, with regular use, the top layer (enamel) becomes thin. As a result, scratches, yellow, red smudges, and unevenness appear. Therefore, swimming in such a bathtub is not very aesthetically pleasing, and it also spoils the interior of the entire room.

This often leads owners to think that old bath needs to be replaced with a new one. But such an acquisition is not cheap, and dismantling old plumbing almost always involves damage to the finishing elements. So, how and with what to paint a bathtub at home? A compromise solution is cosmetic restoration of the surface of the product. For bathtubs made of metal, tin or cast iron, an enamel spray is perfect, after applying which the bathtub will look fresh and perfect, just after purchase.

How to paint the inside of a cast-iron bathtub at home, without the help of specialists? On initial stage you need to buy materials and draw up a painting plan.

Do-it-yourself bath surface restoration

During the work you will need the following materials:

  • primer;
  • enamel;
  • a degreaser such as acetone;
  • rubber gloves;
  • sandpaper;
  • mask;
  • napkins made from natural material;
  • sponges;
  • construction tape;
  • detergents;
  • polyethylene protective film.

How to choose paint

A positive result depends on the method of application, as well as the choice of dye. It should be noted that you cannot save on paint, because for a small amount you will get a low-quality product, which will ultimately lead to repainting and new waste.

What paint should I paint my bathtub to make it look like new? Professionals with significant experience advise choosing epoxy enamel. The paint is available in aerosol form and has excellent characteristics. It is better to select a manufacturer that is well-known and has proven itself in the market building materials. Reputable companies value their name, so their products meet all standard quality standards.

Is it possible to restore the surface of a bathtub at home?

Many owners of old bathtubs doubt whether they will be able to qualitatively renew its surface without the help of professionals. As a rule, this question becomes relevant if it is planned to carry out renovations in the entire room, and the budget is limited, which does not make it possible to allocate funds for the purchase of a new bathtub. In such cases optimal solutions To return the surface of the bathtub to its previous ideal, uniform appearance, paint the bathtub yourself with special enamel.

Even the oldest, scratched, enamel-peeled cast iron bathtub can be restored to its original appearance with a quality coating. In fact, those bathtubs that were installed many years ago are especially durable. But, as shown long years exploitation of them weak point is the enamel covering the entire internal surface.

Over time, the coating of the product wears off or becomes thinner, which leads to chips and various defects. Besides, take it in such a bath water treatments It’s not easy, it’s not aesthetically pleasing, but it’s also risky. After all, a lot of dirt accumulates in microcracks, and a lot of harmful microorganisms take root.

Therefore, for thrifty owners, the most profitable option is to paint the bathroom with enamel. Any owner of “well-worn” plumbing equipment can carry out such a difficult undertaking if desired. To save money, you do not need to resort to the help of a professional builder specializing in the restoration of cast iron bathtubs.

Save on painting the bathtub

If you are seriously thinking about restoring your own bathtub and what you can use to paint the bathtub yourself, then the question will arise: will this venture be financially justified? Restoring a bathtub will cost you several times less than purchasing a new one. Thus, you will not only save money, but also increase the service life of the product several times! In addition, restoring damaged plumbing to its previous appearance will not take a lot of time, and the result will certainly please you.

A bathtub coated with a high-quality aerosol will look no worse than new! And the prices for everything necessary materials- relatively low when compared with the cost of a new high-quality product. Do you want your updated plumbing to last as long as possible? Follow these rules:

  • soak your laundry in the bath as little as possible;
  • If possible, do not use detergents with high content chemical substances that have a negative impact on the enamel coating;
  • Do not leave the bathtub filled with water for a long time.

And remember, absolutely every bathtub can be restored! During the restoration process, be patient, careful, and remember to use high-quality materials.

In fact, changing enamel is not a difficult task, however, it requires care, because... water can penetrate into micropores. If you have time and want to save money family budget, then prepare everything you need and start painting. But remember that every rule must be strictly followed.

Do-it-yourself sanding of the bathtub surface

Inventory preparation

Before you start work, you must have the following attributes with you:

  • paint for plumbing;
  • degreaser;
  • grinding apparatus;
  • large brush;
  • sandpaper;
  • vacuum cleaner;
  • latex gloves;
  • special glasses;
  • protective mask.

Let's start painting

Even a novice builder should understand that high-quality painting of a bathtub with enamel, reviews of which are only positive, largely depends on the choice of a certain type of paint. The most common shades: white, light green, pale blue. There is an opinion that colored enamel can hide minor imperfections that are more noticeable on a white surface.

The paint comes with a hardener; it must be mixed with the enamel before painting. Experts recommend not mixing these 2 components at once, but doing this process in stages. This is necessary to prevent premature hardening of the enamel, so it should be applied to the surface gradually.

DIY bathtub painting with enamel

Stages of bathtub restoration

  1. Degreasing. At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to remove limestone and greasy deposits. You can cope with this task using strong solutions containing alkali.
  2. Removing old coating. The process is carried out using special grinding equipment. By the way, in order to save your budget, you can not buy it, but rent it at a hardware store. If you still haven’t resolved the issue with the machine, then you can remove the old layer using hard sandpaper, but you will waste a lot of time.
  3. ABOUT cleaning the bathtub from enamel residues. Preparing for painting. Remaining particles old paint should be washed off with water. If during this you see moisture collecting on the bathtub, this means that the degreasing step was performed poorly and must be repeated.
  4. Dry the interior with a hairdryer. To ensure trouble-free operation in the future, as well as to eliminate the ingress of old enamel residues, the walls of the bathtub must be carefully treated with a special hairdryer.
  5. Coloring. You can proceed to the most important process and paint the bathtub with enamel. The technology for restoring cast iron bathtubs involves painting the surface (from the sides down). The paint must be applied in 2 stages. The bottom is painted at the very end.

Finally, you need to dry the surface for 24 hours. In this case, all doors and windows in the home must be tightly closed. This is necessary so that debris, dirt, and dust brought in from the street do not get on the painted walls of the bathtub. Better yet, do not swim in the updated product for at least 7 days in order to new bath completely dried, and the coating adhered firmly to it.

At the end of the renovation, you can complete the transformation by painting the outside of the bathtub and replacing the old legs with original and beautiful ones. Thanks to this, your bath will acquire a chic, aesthetic look.

Acrylic painting

Now we’ll find out how to paint a bathtub with acrylic at home. To paint acrylic, mix it with a hardener. Then the resulting mixture must be immediately applied to the surface, because it hardens quickly. At the same time, you should have sponges and shreds made of natural material on hand, with which you will wipe away any stains that have formed as necessary.

There are some peculiarities in the process of restoring a bathtub with acrylic. For example, the bottle that contained the hardener can be used as a watering can, through which resourceful “restorers” pour acrylic onto the walls of the bathtub. It is better to start applying acrylic from the upper far sides, going in a circle to the closest edge. It is also necessary to carefully monitor the evenness of the filling. The stream should be carried out slowly, measuredly, making sure that the areas are completely covered.

To make it convenient to close the drain-overflow, you should remove the sieve from the plug, and then place cardboard tubes in the hole, which will be 10 cm above the surface. Thanks to this, during the process of pouring acrylic you will not have difficulties with the lower level, as well as the distribution of layers .

  1. When painting the bathtub, do not allow moisture to get into it. Therefore, it is better to remove the tap and shower or move it to a washbasin.
  2. For convenience, the work area should be arranged in such a way that there are no third-party objects nearby that interfere with the painstaking process.
  3. Before applying acrylic, the bathtub must be thoroughly dried. warm air. For these purposes, it is better to use an industrial special hair dryer, which can be rented at a hardware store. But if such equipment is not available, then use a home hairdryer, however, it needs to be given a rest from time to time, because... its motor is weaker, so it may burn out.
  4. If you notice large defects on a surface that has not yet been treated with acrylic, then it is better to putty them so that they are not noticeable after painting.

That's all. Now you know how to paint a bathtub yourself, as well as how to update its design and save on repairs.

Do-it-yourself restoration of the bathtub surface Do-it-yourself bathtub painting with enamel

A cast iron bathtub is a symbol of a bygone Soviet era, when every apartment was equipped with this unpretentious, simple, but high-quality plumbing fixture. Some owners of “Stalinka” or “Khrushchev” buildings still use old-style washing containers, as they are of high quality, strength, and durability.

The service life of a cast iron bathtub is at least 50 years, however, time, as well as active use, leave their mark on its surface. Yellowing, chips, and abrasions on the enamel spoil the appearance of the bowl, but it is irrational to replace it because of these small defects, because to restore the whiteness of the product, you can simply paint it yourself. In this article we will tell you what bath paint is used at home, as well as how the coloring is done.

Defects in old cast iron bathtubs

A cast iron bathtub has excellent performance characteristics, it retains heat for a long time and has sufficient strength. A special feature of plumbing products made from this alloy is their heavy weight, which can reach 150 kg. This bowl can be used for more than 50 years, it will not lose its qualities, unlike modern acrylic and steel models. However, service life enamel coating much less, even with careful care, traces of intensive use remain:


Note! Even with analogues made of acrylic and steel, cast iron bathtubs are very popular because they have a long service life and durability. Replacing an old washing container with new model made from the same material will cost the homeowner 15-20 thousand rubles. Paint for a cast-iron bathtub can restore the whiteness and smoothness of the product for 3-5 times less if you work with your own hands.

Types of paints

It is logical to assume that painting at home is done with special paints. Strict requirements are imposed on coloring compositions: they must withstand constant contact with water, exposure to high and low temperatures, as well as strong detergents. To restore and restore the original appearance of an old bowl with your own hands, you need to select high-quality moisture-resistant paint that can be used to paint cast iron. Bath paint of this type comes in 2 varieties:


Important! The quality of coloring directly depends on the correct preparation of the compound. The base of the mixture has a viscous, thick consistency, and the hardener, on the contrary, is liquid. Therefore, in order to combine the components, it is necessary to mix them for a long time and thoroughly until a homogeneous fluid substance is formed.

Dyeing technology

The process at home with your own hands cannot be called simple. The technology consists of the following stages: preparing the room, preparing the surface, preparing the compound, applying paint and drying. The most labor-intensive operation is considered preparatory work, since it takes a lot of time and effort. The quality and durability of the new coating depends on the correct preparation of the surface. Painting is performed in the following sequence:


Experienced craftsmen say that the most important part of the technology for painting old cast iron bathtubs is drying. When painting is completed, the bathroom area is closed to prevent dust from entering. Polymerization of acrylic or epoxy enamel takes 3-7 days, during which it is not recommended to use the bathtub. For the first day it is better not to even enter the room. The more time passes from painting to the first wash, the more durable the coating will be.

Video instruction