How to ground an instantaneous water heater. Rouzo connection diagram without grounding

In order to ground a boiler in a private house as best as possible, you need to make a high-quality grounding loop and connect it correctly.

To do this you will need the following tools and materials:

  • Metal corner or profile with a side width of 5 cm. It will take about 18 meters for the electrodes and their connections.
  • Metal wire or strip, at least 3 mm wide for connecting grounding to the shield.
  • Electric welding, which will be used to weld the circuit structure.
  • Grinder for cutting corners and wire. A hammer drill for drilling a hole in a house to introduce grounding.
  • Sledgehammer, which will be used to hammer the profile into the ground.
  • Three-core cable for conducting electricity in the house from the panel to the outlet.
  • Modern socket with grounding terminal. Automatic machine corresponding to power storage water heater.
  • Screwdriver, probe, knife.


First of all, you need to choose a place for the future placement of the circuit. It should be no further than five meters from the shield. The main thing is that people and pets do not walk on top, since in the event of a breakdown the electricity will go into the ground around it. If someone passes there at this time, he will be shocked. You can do it yourself from above this place decorative decoration made of stones or specially enclose it with a fence.

Contour collection

We cut the corner into six strips of three meters each. We cut one side of three of them at an acute angle with a grinder; in the future it will be much easier to drive them into the ground. We dig a triangular ditch in the ground, with a side length of a little more than three meters and a depth of 30-50 cm. We install profiles in the corners of the resulting triangle with the points down and, using a sledgehammer, drive them almost to the entire length, leaving 10 centimeters on top.

We weld the driven corners together with the remaining three. In essence, the circuit is ready. It is shaped like a chair with three legs buried in the ground, as in the photo. Now you should connect to the shield.

We make a ditch with our own hands from the nearest corner of the contour to the place in the house where the shield is located. We drill a through hole in the base of the house. The wire is welded on one side to the corner of the contour and is led into the house along a ditch through a hole made in the base.

This cannot be done using wire, as it will rot over time.


A screw is welded to the end of the wire, which is located in the house, with the head down. After this, we bury the contour and wire. It's good if you install it in soft soil or clay, they conduct current well due to their high salt content. If the circuit is installed in sand, the installation site must be watered with saline solution.

Connection at home

A bare piece of wire is wound around a screw welded to the wire and secured with a nut. And they are already bringing him to the screen. A separate circuit breaker is installed in the panel and a three-wire wire is routed to the socket.

The characteristics of the machine and the cable cross-section are selected according to the power of the boiler. If the device has a power of 2-3.5 kW, a 10 amp machine will do and copper cable with a cross-section of 2 mm, for storage water heater power from 3.5 to 4.5 kW - a 16 ampere machine and a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm, higher - 25 amperes, a cross-section of 3 mm and higher.

It is important to connect the cable wires correctly so that you and a professional electrician can correctly understand the location of the phase, neutral and ground by color. The ground is connected to a yellow, green or green-yellow wire. Zero is connected to the blue wire, and phase to the third. It is usually white, brown or black. It is important to buy a socket with a grounding terminal.


Next, the wire is laid in a box or ditch in the wall, and a socket is installed. It should be located at a distance of 50 cm from the body of the water heater and 80 cm from the floor. It is prohibited to install sockets above bathtubs and showers.

Safety precautions

All electrical work should be carried out with the current turned off. In any case, before touching any wire, you should check it with a probe. It is prohibited to connect grounding to any pipes.

If the house is not grounded and the boiler is not connected to it, there are two potential dangers:

  1. Any electrical breakdowns they will go to the water and shock the one who uses it. This puts you and your loved ones at risk.
  2. Stray currents will gradually destroy the boiler body and lead to rusting of its metal elements.

If you did everything correctly, grounding should protect you from electric shocks and premature breakdown of the boiler. Just in case, you can call specialists who, with the help special devices check the resistance of your circuit.

Here is a video about grounding in a private house:

For a person accustomed to comfort, the absence hot water even for a few hours it seems like a disaster. Huge variety of household heating devices, in conjunction with at an affordable price, make the purchase and installation of devices in a simple way solve the problem of hot water supply. However, during installation, inexperienced users, through negligence or ignorance, “forget” to ground the water heater.

Storage water heaters - boilers

What results from violating the rules for connecting to the electrical network, lack of grounding, and how to properly make protection against electric shock with your own hands is described in the article.

Why is a water heater grounded?

The water entering the water supply system is a good conductor, and electric heating devices in apartments and private houses operate on electricity. Regardless of the type of electrical appliance (flow-through or storage), the liquid comes into contact with the heating element.

Boiler contact group - yellow-green wire for grounding the housing

In case of burnout of conductors, destruction of the heater housing, contact of the phase housing with the housing, contact between water and the exposed wire cannot be avoided. The liquid becomes a conductor for leakage current. In cases where the user touches the ungrounded metal body of the device or exposes parts of the body to the flow of water, the electric current will flow along the path: 220 V phase - water heater water - human body - earth (through water). A noticeable impact, often resulting in death, is inevitable.

In another case, a potential difference may occur between two electrical appliances (you can often find the not entirely correct name “stray currents”) located in the same room. In this case, touching the devices at the same time also leads to a noticeable tingling sensation. Grounding in such cases serves to equalize the potentials of the circuits. In addition, the presence of “extra” potentials on devices accelerates their destruction.

Methods and principles of grounding

There are two different ways protection from defeat electric shock– protective grounding and grounding. Out of ignorance, authors often call them in one word, grounding.

What is the difference? In the case of “real” grounding, the metal body of the electrical device is connected by a separate conductor to a special circuit. We will tell you below how to make it in a private home or country house.

Block diagrams of grounding and grounding connections

In this case, the operating voltage that reaches the device is discharged along the following path: electrical installation housing - conductor - grounding bus - ground. According to the rules of electrical installations, the resistance of such a circuit should not exceed 4 ohms, which is much less than the resistance of human skin. Thus, all the current will go to the ground. If the current values ​​are high, the circuit breaker will trip and the power supply to the consumer’s electrical installation (as electrical appliances are correctly called) will be turned off.

In case of grounding, there is an additional wire in the socket (painted yellow-green) and is called a PE conductor. The grounding wire in the heater is connected to dangerous parts of the electrical appliance, which can become a source of current leakage. In case of integrity violation heating element, when a phase hits the housing, the current will flow along the path: phase wire – device body (heater) – grounding protective wire – apartment distribution panel. If the rated current is exceeded, the protection device will operate.

The choice of grounding type for any type of water heaters in an apartment depends on the organized power supply circuit of the residential building.

How not to ground electrical appliances

There are several seemingly simple ways to organize protection in your apartment, but the use of which is strictly prohibited:

  • Connecting the third wire in the outlet to the plumbing or heating pipes running through the kitchen or bathroom.

Prohibited grounding to a water pipe

  • In case of phase breakdown on the heater body or washing machine all dangerous potential will end up on the entrance riser. A neighbor who opens the water is doomed to receive an electric shock. Moreover, this method does not work in case of replacing a part. metal pipes plastic analogues - “grounding” will not fulfill its function.
  • Combining the neutral and grounding contacts in the socket. A zero break in such cases leads to the appearance dangerous voltage on the buildings of all consumers connected to the apartment network.
  • Grounding of several devices in series one after another. If a fault occurs in one device, all others will be exposed to dangerous voltage.
  • Connection of several wires to one bus terminal. Each device must have a separate contact.
  • Independent production of grounding devices and connecting a bus to them. Such devices can disrupt the operation of the entire energy supply system at home and fail to fulfill their intended purpose at all.

Electrical wiring diagram of an apartment building

Until 1998, according to the standards in force at that time, most houses were powered using the so-called TN-C circuit or a circuit with a solidly grounded neutral.

A four-core cable was installed in the house, which had 3 phases and one neutral conductor. In an apartment, such a system is easy to identify - all sockets do not have a protective contact, they are two-pin.

In houses modern construction The power supply is supplied by a five-core cable (TN-S wiring), in which the working and protective neutral wires are separated. The sockets have a protective contact, just like when using the TN-C-S circuit. There are other grounding schemes.

Grounding organization diagrams

"The picture shows possible options power supply and grounding diagrams. If you do not have exact information about what kind of circuit is organized in your home, contact an energy specialist management company».

How to ground a water heater in an old house

In houses old building To organize grounding, you will have to perform a number of works and spend money on purchasing materials.

Purchase a single-core copper wire with a cross-section of at least 4 mm 2, which on one side is connected to the ground contact on the electrical appliance. The other end of the wire is connected to the bus in the interfloor panel. It is advisable to lay the wire in a groove to avoid damage. To connect, solder a contact to the ends of the wire to tighten it under the bolt.

Using an RCD

Another way to protect yourself from electric shock is to install a residual current device (RCD) or a differential circuit breaker.

The device is installed separately on the water heater or on the common electrical wiring input.

The essence of the devices, in short, is as follows. The device is installed in the gap of both conductors (phase and neutral), through which power is supplied to the premises. At normal conditions operation, the currents flowing through the phase and neutral conductors are equal. The power remains connected.

If a leakage current occurs through one of the wires, the values ​​of the flowing currents will become different. A residual current device or differential circuit breaker will disconnect both conductors from the consumer.

RCD connection diagram

For installation in residential premises, provision is made for the installation of disconnect devices that are triggered by a leakage current of 30 mA. The response time of the devices does not allow you to receive an electric shock that is dangerous to health.

What to do in private houses

Any property owner can install an individual grounding system in a private home or country house.

Important! If there is not enough specialized knowledge, we strongly recommend that you contact an electrician from the village management company (the board of the dacha society). This will help avoid mistakes when construction work and when connected.

In any case, it is better to carry out the general construction part yourself - this will save a significant amount of money.

Construction part of manufacturing individual grounding

Manufacturing procedure:

  1. Having retreated 1.5 - 2 meters from the foundation of the house, they dig a trench in the shape of an equilateral triangle with a side of 2 - 2.5 m. The depth of the recess is 60 cm, the width is 40 - 50 cm. Between the triangle and the wall of the house they also dig a recess for connecting the bus to the distribution shield.
  2. At the corners of the triangle, pins made of metal reinforcement with a diameter of 12–14 mm are driven into the ground, leaving 5–10 cm above the bottom of the trench.
  3. The driven pins are connected to each other by welding a metal strip 4 mm thick and 40 mm wide. The same strip, welded to the pins, is placed on the wall of the building.
  4. The trench is buried.
  5. Bolts with a thread diameter of 8-10 mm are welded to the strip placed on the wall - grounding wires from household electrical appliances (boilers, washing and dishwashers, various machines).
  6. Single-core heater grounding terminal copper wire with a section of 4 mm 2 or an aluminum section of 6 mm 2 are connected to a bolt welded to the busbar. The connection is made “under the bolt”.

So, connecting household water heaters and other energy-intensive appliances to a protective grounding system is caused by the need to comply with safety regulations.

The device saves the lives of users in case of malfunctions of electrical appliances and minimizes the likelihood of fires. An easy-to-implement grounding system will help avoid tragedies when using electrical appliances.

In order to ground a boiler in a private house as best as possible, you need to make a high-quality grounding loop and connect it correctly.

To do this you will need the following tools and materials:

  • Metal corner or profile with a side width of 5 cm. It will take about 18 meters for the electrodes and their connections.
  • Metal wire or strip, at least 3 mm wide for connecting grounding to the shield.
  • Electric welding, which will be used to weld the circuit structure.
  • Grinder for cutting corners and wire. A hammer drill for drilling a hole in a house to introduce grounding.
  • Sledgehammer, which will be used to hammer the profile into the ground.
  • Three-core cable for conducting electricity in the house from the panel to the outlet.
  • Modern socket with grounding terminal. Automatic device corresponding to the power of the storage water heater.
  • Screwdriver, probe, knife.


First of all, you need to choose a place for the future placement of the circuit. It should be no further than five meters from the shield. The main thing is that people and pets do not walk on top, since in the event of a breakdown the electricity will go into the ground around it. If someone passes there at this time, he will be shocked. You can make a decorative decoration from stones on top of this place with your own hands or specially enclose it with a fence.

Contour collection

We cut the corner into six strips of three meters each. We cut one side of three of them at an acute angle with a grinder; in the future it will be much easier to drive them into the ground. We dig a triangular ditch in the ground, with a side length of a little more than three meters and a depth of 30-50 cm. We install profiles in the corners of the resulting triangle with the points down and, using a sledgehammer, drive them almost to the entire length, leaving 10 centimeters on top.

We weld the driven corners together with the remaining three. In essence, the circuit is ready. It is shaped like a chair with three legs buried in the ground, as in the photo. Now you should connect to the shield.

We make a ditch with our own hands from the nearest corner of the contour to the place in the house where the shield is located. We drill a through hole in the base of the house. The wire is welded on one side to the corner of the contour and is led into the house along a ditch through a hole made in the base.

This cannot be done using wire, as it will rot over time.


A screw is welded to the end of the wire, which is located in the house, with the head down. After this, we bury the contour and wire. It's good if you install it in soft soil or clay, they conduct current well due to their high salt content. If the circuit is installed in sand, the installation site must be watered with saline solution.

Connection at home

A bare piece of wire is wound around a screw welded to the wire and secured with a nut. And they are already bringing him to the screen. A separate circuit breaker is installed in the panel and a three-wire wire is routed to the socket.

The characteristics of the machine and the cable cross-section are selected according to the power of the boiler. If the device has a power of 2-3.5 kW, a 10-amp machine and a copper cable with a cross-section of 2 mm are suitable; for a storage water heater power from 3.5 to 4.5 kW - a 16-amp machine and a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm, higher – 25 amperes, cross-section 3 mm and above.

It is important to connect the cable wires correctly so that you and a professional electrician can correctly understand the location of the phase, neutral and ground by color. The ground is connected to a yellow, green or green-yellow wire. Zero is connected to the blue wire, and phase to the third. It is usually white, brown or black. It is important to buy a socket with a grounding terminal.


Next, the wire is laid in a box or ditch in the wall, and a socket is installed. It should be located at a distance of 50 cm from the body of the water heater and 80 cm from the floor. It is prohibited to install sockets above bathtubs and showers.

Safety precautions

All electrical work should be carried out with the current switched off. In any case, before touching any wire, you should check it with a probe. It is prohibited to connect grounding to any pipes.

If the house is not grounded and the boiler is not connected to it, there are two potential dangers:

  1. Any electrical breakdowns they will go to the water and shock the one who uses it. This puts you and your loved ones at risk.
  2. Stray currents will gradually destroy the boiler body and lead to rusting of its metal elements.

If you did everything correctly, grounding should protect you from electric shocks and premature breakdown of the boiler. Just in case, you can call specialists who, using special instruments, will check the resistance of your circuit.

Here is a video about grounding in a private house:

25-05-2008, 03:39

We have a Khrushchev building where there is no grounding in the wiring. Is it possible to install a water heater in such conditions?
We read on the Termex website that it seems that connection without grounding is prohibited...is that true? Are we out of luck now?
...The flow-through did not work out due to the low voltage to the apartment, now there is no grounding....:(
How did you get out of such situations? Hot water is very hot! :091:

25-05-2008, 18:50

no one connected water heaters in Khrushchev houses and ships???:010: :(

25-05-2008, 19:19

I have had Ariston in my old stock for 8 years now
there is no "land" by definition
t-t-t, no incidents
I changed it under warranty (the tank was leaking), so this special attention no one complained and they changed it without any problems :)

25-05-2008, 19:33

I have it connected without grounding, my parents do too
nothing so far everything TTT is fine

25-05-2008, 21:08

25-05-2008, 21:12

I have an RCD and a storage heater :)

25-05-2008, 21:33

Grounding was “invented” in order not to receive a current discharge......You can install it without it......You live or don’t live.....Or you can connect it to a pipe, then it will either kill you or neighbor, it's up to you.........

Volodya Volodya

25-05-2008, 21:36

If you want to take your own life, you can do it without grounding. You can see about the connection here http://www.thermex.ru/prod_how2.php3?title=how%20to connect%20a water heater, and they also advise installing an RCD. “Perhaps yes,” they are bad advisers. There is a lot about water heaters and connections on the forum: http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=47:3666-24
and here http://www.ivd.ru/document.xgi?id=6045&gid=393&hid=138&oid=138. You can, however, turn it off when you wash, but what if you forget? What if a teenage child forgets?

26-05-2008, 10:12

If you want to take your own life, you can do it without grounding.
no, such a desire did not seem to be recorded among family members... thank God..:)

I have an RCD and a storage heater :)

Grounding was “invented” in order not to receive a current discharge......You can install it without it......You live or don’t live.....Or you can connect it to a pipe, then it will either kill you or neighbor, it's up to you.........

26-05-2008, 10:17


26-05-2008, 10:31

Can. You just need to call a competent specialist.
RCD - Residual Current Device, turns off when the current starts to “flow” in the wrong place. Saves lives.

As I understand it, it’s possible just with an RCD.

Pronya Pavlova

26-05-2008, 11:26

I am of course conscious from a safety point of view, but... in ships and Khrushchev buildings there is no grounding by definition - so what? No one there has washing machines or hot water heaters? don't tell me my slippers

Pronya Pavlova

26-05-2008, 11:28

I am extremely far from electricity and physics. therefore, the questions, apparently, will be stupid... why didn’t these..hmm..builders provide for this grounding then?..and what should I do now? Can the lack of grounding be somehow corrected? or do we now only have to live and be afraid??:001:

Because when they built Khrushchev houses and ships, they didn’t even dream of washing machines (as they are now), dishwashers and boilers...

26-05-2008, 11:33

no, such a desire did not seem to be recorded among family members... thank God..:)
Thanks for the bunch of links, I'll try to get through them.:010:

What is an RCD? some kind of thing that can be placed in ungrounded places?

I am extremely far from electricity and physics. therefore, the questions, apparently, will be stupid... why didn’t these..hmm..builders provide for this grounding then?..and what should I do now? Can the lack of grounding be somehow corrected? or do we now only have to live and be afraid??:001:
Need an electrician. Everything should be done by specialists, IMHO. There is no “ground” in the apartment - there is in the panel on the staircase, there is no panel on the stairs - there is in the basement or on the first floor. Electron damage electric shock in the bathroom... Those who have washed themselves “successfully” will no longer be able to make claims...

26-05-2008, 12:07

Termex's store on Blagodatnaya is called "turnkey", consult there. They work on weekends. Indifference in this matter will not be tolerated. You don’t take wet clothes out of the washing machine while standing barefoot in the bathroom under running water, do you? (Rhetorical question:))) Otherwise, options would also be possible...
T-T-T. God bless all the people who don't care!

26-05-2008, 12:31

26-05-2008, 12:35

I can give you the phone number of a specialist who can connect Thermex and other plumbing fixtures. The master is already very experienced in years. He takes money in moderation.
And me, please... :091:

26-05-2008, 12:42

As I understand it, it’s possible just with an RCD.

I’ve been thinking hard, it turns out that the washing machine and dishwasher (and refrigerator??:009:) also need to be connected through an RCD? does this thing connect to the whole apartment at once? or do you need to connect your own RCD to each device?? :009:
help me put things in order in my head!:091:

A so-called fire protection RCD is installed throughout the entire apartment - it cuts off all power supply in the event of a current leak and possible fire; it does not save a person from electric shock, since the rating is 300 mA (a current of no more than 30 mA is considered safe).
Next - all potentially dangerous consumers (especially those in which “wet” processes occur) water heaters, washing machines, dishwashers, sockets in the bathroom, etc. - they are connected along their lines through an RCD with a nominal value of no more than 30 mA.
Why everyone? So that when a malfunction occurs, it is the culprit who is switched off, and not all consumers en masse, then you won’t be able to find the cause.
The refrigerator is not a particularly dangerous electrical consumer.

Example: the common horse-house episode about killing a person in a filled bathroom by throwing a working hair dryer into it does not work if a working RCD is correctly installed on the outlet line in the bathroom :))

26-05-2008, 22:35

A so-called fire protection RCD is installed throughout the entire apartment - it cuts off all power supply in the event of a current leak and a possible fire; it does not save a person from electric shock

How does this not save?:001: but what does it save?:009:

Many thanks to everyone who responded!:flower:, although the answer to my question - what will replace grounding for us - did not work out... or did I just not understand it?..:009:

Tagiyev, thank you very much for the master, :flower: but we have nothing to connect yet - now. My husband can do a great job on his own - two. He installed all the electricity in my apartment from scratch, and today he assembled the panel and connected the meter. An electrician with a license arrived, checked everything, was surprised at the correctness and sold the work completion certificate for 500 rubles.. :) We just don’t quite understand how to deal with grounding, but otherwise we have full order! :008:

27-05-2008, 09:15

how does this not save?:001: what does it save?:009:

Saves an RCD with a nominal value of no more than 30 mA:ded::))
In a barren building, the so-called “earth” - the PE conductor, is usually pulled into the apartment from the floor board body, this is provided that the floor boards are connected in the riser by a metal connection, and there is still some kind of grounding near the house.

All electrical appliances require grounding high power. Typically, this requires connecting a special contact to the plug and socket. But the water heater is grounded using the terminal that the device is equipped with.

Why is grounding done?

When installing a boiler, you should remember that the lack of grounding can cause current leakage when a phase is shorted. And the water that passes through the heater contains electric charges. As a rule, the boiler is connected to metal or metal-plastic pipes, which causes the accumulation of stray currents and charged particles in the device. This process causes corrosion on the walls of the device and premature wear of the water heater.

But the main danger in the absence of grounding is the high probability of electric shock to a person using water from the boiler. Anyone who is at least a little familiar with basic physical concepts knows that water is an excellent conductor, and the possibility of getting an electric shock if the insulation is damaged is 100%.

Therefore, one of the most important issues when installing a boiler is how to make grounding for a water heater in order to prolong the operation of the device and protect your family and friends.

Stages of work execution

Before you start work, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

  • metal pin (3 pcs.): diameter – 1.6 cm, length 150 cm;
  • steel wire: diameter – 0.6 cm;
  • bolt (M10) with washer and nut – several pieces;
  • drill (perforator);
  • drill with a pobedit tip: diameter – 0.8 cm;
  • inverter welding equipment;
  • machine for sharpening parts;
  • hammer;
  • set of wrenches.

Before grounding a water heater in an apartment, you should inspect the body of the device. As a rule, included with electric boilers Comes with a set: fork, nuts and studs with washers. It is necessary to check the electrical network coming from the distribution board located on the floor: all metal parts must be connected to the grounding system. After this, you can install an outlet equipped with a grounding element.

The socket must be located at a distance of at least 50 cm from the water heater, and not lower than 80 cm above the floor surface.

Next, a cable is laid from the switchboard to the socket. The copper cores in a three-core wire should have a diameter of 1.5 mm. It is advisable to lay the cable hidden, for this you need to first groove the walls or floor. If for some reason it is not possible to hide the wire, then it can be stretched in a special plastic trench. The cores at both ends of the cable are disconnected for connection to the terminals of the distributor and socket.

All work related to the connection can be started only after the apartment has been de-energized.

When connecting a wire to a socket, it is necessary to observe the color of the elements being connected. That is, the cable wiring must match the color of the socket wiring. The conductors connected to the switchgear are fixed using a special bolt. After all connections have been made, you should turn on the automatic distributor and check the functionality of the socket using a voltage indicator.

Grounding a water heater in an apartment, equipped with its own protection system, is done by connecting a wire to a special terminal located on the boiler.

Grounding a water heater in a private house or country house

Recently, very often water heaters are installed in dachas and private homes. This best option, for uninterrupted supply of hot water used for the needs of residents of country or cottage villages.

Before grounding the water heater, it must be installed on a solid surface, secured with special fasteners. The boiler is best installed on panel or brick load-bearing walls. A water heater located outdoors should be protected from exposure external factors canopy

Grounding a water heater requires compliance with a certain algorithm of actions.

It is necessary to dig a hole not far from the distribution board, but at a distance of at least 5 meters from residential buildings. The ditch, 50 cm deep, should have the shape of an equilateral triangle.

Electrodes about 2 meters long are dug into the corners of the pit. The grounding element in this case is any metal objects: rod, profile, angle, etc. (rod diameter - from 15 mm, pipe or angle wall thickness - from 4 mm)

The electrodes are connected to each other using metal profile laid along a ditch. The parts of the resulting structure must be joined using welding machine. The conductor running from the grounding to the shield is made of the same profile.

A conductor made of steel, copper or aluminum wire, the cross section of which depends on the electrically conductive characteristics of the element. The entrance to the switchboard is equipped with a copper or steel busbar located inside or outside the device.

After graduation installation work you should carefully fill the structure with earth with the addition of stones, gravel or crushed stone and check the circuit resistance, which should not exceed 4 ohms. Next, you should pour water into the boiler and check the operation of the device.

Do not turn on an empty water heater. Before starting the system, you must fill the container with water.

A galvanized profile with a large cross-section used as a grounding conductor is less susceptible to rust and corrosion.

Avoid installing a ground loop in areas where the pipeline is located.

It is advisable to dig the electrodes below the soil freezing level. But the length of the elements should not be more than 3 meters.

The distance between the electrodes depends on their length. The longer the elements, the farther apart they are placed.

The connection of the profile and electrodes is carried out only with a welding device. This requirement must be strictly followed.

The area where the grounding is laid must be out of the reach of children and animals.