Doing major renovation apartment, office or home, you will definitely face the need plastering works. This process is very labor-intensive and requires professional skills. Therefore, it would be better to entrust this work to specialists. But if, in order to save the repair budget, you decide to finish the walls yourself, then before mixing the solution, read the information given in our article, complete guide on plastering walls with your own hands.

Plastering walls can be done in several ways.

1. In the plane, using the rule (without beacons). This option is suitable if the walls are generally quite smooth, without drops or strong deviations.
2. Alignment of walls according to beacons. The second method is suitable if the walls have significant deviations and unevenness.

Requirements for plaster

The basic requirements for the quality of plastering work are set out in SNiP III-21-73. It is especially important to know them if you decide not to do the work yourself, but to hire workers. The quality of work is divided into 3 parts: for simple, improved and high-quality plaster.

1. With simple plastering, vertical deviations are allowed no more than 3 mm per 1 m, but no more than 15 mm over the entire height of the room. Thus, the maximum wall deviation for ceilings of 2.5 m is 7.5 mm. Smooth unevenness is acceptable for every 4 square meters. m. - no more than 3 pieces. Their height or depth should not exceed 5 mm. Horizontally, the maximum deviation is 3 mm per 1 m.
2. SNIP for improved plaster requires stricter compliance with tolerances. Vertically - no more than 2 mm per 1 m, but no more than 10 mm over the entire height of the room. The presence of smooth irregularities is acceptable - no more than 2 pieces. for 4 sq. m., less than 3 mm deep. For each meter horizontally, a deviation of no more than 2 mm is permissible.
3. The most stringent requirements in SNIP are specified for high-quality plaster. Vertical deviations should be less than 1 mm per 1 m, but not more than 5 mm per room height. The maximum allowed presence of 2 irregularities per 4 square meters. m., less than 2 mm deep. At 1 m horizontally, a deviation of no more than 1 mm is permissible.

Aligning walls with beacons


It is in this way that significant unevenness in the wall can be removed. Beacon profiles will serve as a limiter so that the work is completed perfectly evenly with a tolerance of 1 mm/sq.m.

Cost of work

The price for plastering work starts from 600 rubles. per sq. m. Let's calculate how much you can save if you don't hire workers.

First of all, you need to buy a hammer drill and a 2 m long bubble level. All the rest Consumables will be indicated below. 6,000 rubles will be enough for all these accessories, so you will save after leveling one wall of 15 square meters. m.

If you need to level walls with an area of ​​90 square meters. m., then the savings will be at least 30,000 rubles! You will have the entire tool forever, and if you already have it, then it would be a sin not to use it. If we plaster the walls ourselves, we will definitely be confident in their quality.

Choosing a mixture for plaster

To better understand the process of leveling walls, look at the following on plaster:

• The last stage is grouting the plaster. To make this easier, it is better to start grouting before the solution dries. To do this, you need to dilute the plaster in small portions to a thinner consistency. Before grouting, moisten a small area of ​​the wall about 1 square meter.
• Apply the solution to the malka and spread it in a thin layer. Then level this square with a hammer at a 45 degree angle, using strong pressure.
• Continue smoothing the square until the solution stops accumulating on the flour, while removing any excess. The surface should be flat and smooth.
• Repeat these steps, but smooth each new square overlapping the previous one. Try to work without breaks, being distracted only by mixing the solution.

Note! If you are laying tiles, the minimum layer of plaster should be 10 mm. In addition, there is no need to grout, since for maximum adhesion of the tiles to the wall it will be necessary to create artificial unevenness.

The result of the work is shown in the photo:

Plastering facades

Plastering external walls (facades) using lighthouses uses almost the same technology as indoors. The main thing here is to comply temperature regime. The temperature outside should be above zero.

For facades, a mixture based on cement and sand is usually used. For greater durability, you can attach to the facade metal mesh and plaster over it. It is especially important to use a mesh if the walls of the house are made of sand-lime brick.

We have looked in detail at how to properly plaster walls using beacons. Now you can do this work yourself without any problems. Don't be discouraged if you don't succeed the first time, everything comes with experience, and you will definitely learn how to make the walls perfectly even. We also recommend that you read our article about.

Quite often, modern craftsmen began to use plaster to make the finishing layer. In this case, the surface must be subjected to special treatment to give it a good appearance or the necessary texture.

This process is called grouting plaster, and it is performed both when applying the material and after it hardens.

Types of work and their execution

To begin with, it must be said that professional craftsmen They treat this stage of work very responsibly. The fact is that it cannot be carried out along certain guides or guided by markings. All work is carried out under visual control with properly selected lighting.

Smooth surface

• Conventional grouting of walls after plastering involves creating a perfectly smooth surface onto which dye or varnish can be applied. Similar techniques are also used when choosing wallpaper as a finishing coating.
• It must be said that gypsum mixtures are best grouted due to their viscosity. In this case, cement mortars can crumble greatly, and to eliminate this phenomenon, professional craftsmen recommend adding a small amount of plasticizer to the mortar when mixing it.

• The question of how to grout plaster also deserves special attention, since it causes a lot of controversy among craftsmen. However, the answer is quite simple, especially if you encounter such work every day.
• The fact is that in order to apply an even layer, which in itself will be perfectly smooth, it is best to use a metal grater. In this case, to work with the hardening surface, it is worth using a tool made of polyurethane. It is strong enough not to wear off in one go and will not damage the plaster as it is malleable.

• Produce this work when the surface of the plaster begins to harden. In this case, you can lightly moisten the grater with water and begin vertical and horizontal movements, the purpose of which is to smooth out small particles, distributing them evenly over the entire area.
• Professional craftsmen recommend using a primer instead of water after plastering. It will serve as an excellent binder and create a kind of film. At the same time, the installation instructions say that in this case the surface must be treated completely so that there are no dry spots left.

Advice!
Special attention must be paid to the corners.
When working in their location, it is better to use measuring instruments in the form of corners.
Otherwise, even a small defect will be noticeable in this area.

Decorative surface

• If everything is clear with a flat and smooth surface, then the question of how to rub plaster when creating decorative systems is quite difficult to answer. This is due to the fact that there is great amount various types of similar materials that have their own unique installation method. Also, when grouting, some craftsmen use homemade instrument, which creates unique coatings.

• Considering this feature, for example, it is worth considering the process of installing bark beetle plaster in order to understand the manufacturing principle.
• It’s worth noting right away that such a surface is very easy to create with your own hands, which is why craftsmen so often use such compositions.

• First, using a metal float, apply the composition to the wall. It should be said that it contains quite large inclusions of auxiliary elements that begin to scratch the layer. Therefore, the work is done in small jerks so that continuous lines are not obtained.
• As a result, such scratches very much resemble marks in wood from a bark beetle. However, the surface itself remains rough and is not suitable for indoor installation. Therefore, it must be treated with a plaster float.

• It is worth noting that a special tool is needed for such a wall. Its price is not very high, since it is actually sandpaper or a mesh for grouting putty. However, it is best to purchase special device to hold replaceable abrasive segments.
• This work should be done only after the surface has completely hardened, so as not to damage the previously created pattern.

• After this, a brush or brush is passed over its surface to remove all debris and dust from the furrows.
• On final stage professional craftsmen advise treating with a primer to fix the relief, protecting it from the shedding of small particles. Also, such an action will significantly reduce the level of absorption of the material, which will significantly reduce the cost of dyes or glue during subsequent stages of installation.

Advice!
Start working with decorative species coatings are best from places that are not conspicuous or will not be visible.
This way you can practice the application technique and grouting.

Conclusion

By watching the video in this article, you can get more detailed information about how such a procedure is performed and find out all its features. Also based on the text presented above, it should be concluded that there are several options for producing this work, which directly depend on appearance final product.

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Selecting a trowel for grouting plaster

One of the stages of plastering work is the selection of a trowel (grinding block). This tool can be either wooden or polyurethane. In general, a plaster float consists of a blade (sponge or felt material) and a handle. In this case, the handle of the trowel for grouting plaster should be such that when working with it, your fingers pass through the grater freely, i.e., matched to your hand.

The best grout option gypsum plaster a wooden grater is considered manually, to the handle of which a fabric base is fixed (using wooden pins or other ordinary hardware). It should be remembered that when abrading the canvas, hardware or wooden pins, if the process is carried out diligently, can leave scratches on the surface being rubbed. In this regard, they (fastening elements) must be methodically periodically deepened into the fabric base.

For best result The fabric base of the timber for rubbing the plaster layer can in particular cases be upholstered with felt or felt material.

On a note: correct selection using a tool will save not only your energy, but also time. For example, when the wall surface is small, it is better to use a sanding bar. In cases where the wall area is large and flat, it is advisable to use an electric surface grinder. More complex uneven surface It is best to sand with a powerful eccentric sander. However, in any case, smoothing the corners will have to be done manually.

Stages of grouting plaster

Of course, after the final layer of plaster is applied, the question arises of how to rub it in. After all, when the walls are mainly covered with plaster, it is impossible to eliminate the smallest irregularities. In this regard, it is recommended to properly and reliably wipe down the surface of walls or ceilings after working with a spatula or trowel in two stages:

1. Rough grouting of the plaster layer;
2. Smoothing.

Depending on what you plan to use to cover the rubbed area of ​​the room surface in the future, the quality of grinding may vary. For example, if it is being prepared for painting, then it will need to be polished several times (first rough with sandpaper with a grit of up to 60, and then with a sanding mesh with a grit of 100 to 120). These actions help give the sanded area a perfectly smooth surface. However, if you plan to wallpaper the sanded surface in the future, then the second stage of grouting the plaster can be omitted.

Rough work

This stage of grinding the surface coated with plaster is carried out as follows:

1. The layer of plaster on the treated area is slightly moistened with water from a spray bottle.
2. A grater or a block with wooden surface do a rough grout, that is, grind the rough wall or ceiling with circular movements counterclockwise. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the pressure force so as not to tear off the covering layer ( finishing layer plaster).
3. Using a grater with felt, which will need to be slightly moistened with water, use direct movements to perform the final mashing (the so-called “run-up” mashing).

In places where the area to be processed is small (between the door jamb and the corner), it is recommended to use a grater; this is the same sponge grater, only smaller in size.

After rough sanding the plaster, you can begin smoothing its surface.

Smoothing the plaster layer

Rubbing by smoothing is done with a grater with a flat rubber or metal layer. In this case, a grater with an elastic band is used when grinding the surface prepared for subsequent coating of the plaster layer with adhesive paint, and with a metal layer - with ordinary oil paint.

The smoothing of the plastered surface itself is carried out by the following steps:

1. First, using a grater with a metal or rubber layer, carefully make vertical movements from the ceiling to the floor.
2. Then, with perpendicular, that is, horizontal, movements, the same grater is used to manipulate from one edge of the surface to be treated to the other.

In no case is it allowed to make circular movements with a tool during the final smoothing of the plaster surface; it is prohibited to smooth the surface in reverse order. Until the vertical movements of the grinding tool are completed over the entire surface to be treated, proceed to horizontal stroke forbidden.

If the plaster was grouted on the ceiling, then smoothing should be carried out initially in the direction of the line of window openings, and only after that - across.

If all the manipulations performed when plastering the walls or ceiling were carried out correctly, the surface in the room being repaired should be very, very smooth and beautiful.

You can verify the correctness of the work performed:

1. Using lighting, direct the light of the lamp along the wall and inspect the treated surface, that is, see the resulting result.
2. By applying a building level to the surface, accurately determine whether there are any irregularities on it somewhere. In this case, all the shortcomings can be eliminated using the same grinding block (grater).

Before troweling the plaster, it is imperative to take measures to ensure that the smallest specks of dust that inevitably appear when plastering surfaces do not penetrate into other rooms of the residential building. For this it is recommended:

1. Thoroughly wrap all furniture in the room with protective plastic film, securing its edges with tape.
2. Cover the window openings with the same film, that is, secure it similarly to tape along the entire length and width of the openings.
3. On front door hang an unnecessary towel moistened with water, and also additionally put similar material under the threshold and cover the door opening with another towel;

Among other things, you need to take care of yourself: while plastering the surface, you must wear special safety glasses and a mask. Before washing, dirty clothes stained with dust must be thoroughly shaken out.

Upon completion of the plaster grouting, it is recommended that the entire treated surface be cleaned of fine dust before painting or wallpapering using a regular vacuum cleaner or soft brush.

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What is grout?

Grouting is the final stage of plastering work, which consists of eliminating the smallest errors, leveling and smoothing the surface by rubbing the dried mortar with a special tool. When using decorative plaster, the main purpose of the grout is to form a certain relief of the working plane.

Before grouting, a “covering” is applied to the base - the finishing layer of plaster mortar. The base layer, or primer, is very durable and therefore difficult to process, while the covering ensures uniform filling of uneven surfaces and maximum smoothness when grouting. Rub the plaster after the mortar has set, but before it dries completely.

Tools for work

In principle, only one tool is used to grout plaster - a grater, which is a rectangular blade with a handle. Graters differ in size and material of manufacture, and depending on this they are used for a certain type of work.

Types of graters	Characteristics
	A wooden grater is suitable for cement and gypsum plaster; it makes it possible to smooth the surface as much as possible and eliminate minor irregularities. You can make it yourself from an ordinary block. However, it has significant disadvantages - the wood is saturated with moisture, which complicates the work, Bottom part washes out quickly, after drying the fabric may become deformed
	As a rule, plastic floats are used to distribute the plaster mixture in small areas, followed by the formation of a smooth or embossed surface texture. Their use requires certain skills in plastering
	Easy to use, lightweight and durable. Features low abrasion, suitable for all types of plasters
	Affordable, easy to use and lightweight grater, but very short-lived. Mainly used for final sanding of plaster layers.
	The working surface of such graters is made of sponge of varying densities, as well as latex and rubber. Used to form a decorative texture on the surface, finishing smoothing
	Metal floats are designed to compact the plaster layer, forming a perfectly smooth base for painting.

Preparing the coating solution

The coating solution is mixed in the same proportions as for the base layer:

• cement mortar – part cement and 3 parts sand;
• cement-lime – 1 part cement and slaked lime, 3 parts sand.

The only difference is that the finest sand is used for covering, with a grain size of no more than 1.5 mm.

Coarse sand is allowed only if the base is plastered under the tiles. For high-quality grouting, the solution must have normal fat content: thin mixtures do not have sufficient strength and crumble when processing the surface, and excessively fatty ones are poorly leveled and leave streaks.

Advice. It is not difficult to determine the fat content of a plaster mortar: if it sticks heavily to the trowel, it is a greasy mortar, and you need to add sand; if it does not stick at all, it is a skinny mortar that does not have enough cement. A normal solution mixes easily, has a uniform consistency, and leaves an even thin mark on the trowel.

The sand is sifted through a sieve with a mesh size of no more than 1.5x1.5 mm.

Pour cement into the mixing container, add sifted sand and mix dry. Next, add water in small portions to achieve the desired consistency.

When mixing cement-lime mortar, the lime dough should also be strained through a sieve. The presence of even small grains will lead to the formation of marks on the surface, and it will not be possible to achieve perfect smoothness.

Procedure for grouting

Applying the coating

Step 1. The plastered surface is moistened using a sprayer. This increases the adhesion of the cover to the primer layer. It should be moistened evenly, without gaps and not too much so that water does not flow from the wall in rivulets. This should be done 15-20 minutes before applying the solution. If the working area is large, you should divide it into squares and wet only the area that will be processed.

Step 2. To apply the covering you will need a trowel and metal rule, or a wide spatula.

The solution is poured in small portions onto the wall, starting from the top, after which it is distributed as a rule over the entire plane. The rule must be pressed well with your hands so that the solution is more tightly packed into the slightest irregularities. Excess mixture should be removed. The thickness of this finishing layer should not exceed 2 mm.

Step 3. When the covering has set slightly, take a grater and begin to rub the surface. Some plasterers prefer to grout at the same time as applying the mortar.

There is no fundamental difference here, and this does not affect the result in any way, the main thing is to thoroughly rub the composition along the plane to eliminate unevenness. Let's take a closer look at both options.

Dry grout

So, if you decide to wait for the plaster to set, the grouting process is performed as follows: take a polyurethane or metal trowel, moisten it with water, press it to the surface and smooth the plaster in a circular motion. There is no need to press hard on the grater - this can rip off the fresh solution and you will have to repair the scratches, but there is no point in rubbing too lightly.

Perform movements with equal effort, slowly moving along the plane from top to bottom or horizontally. At the joints of the walls, apply the trowel cloth parallel to the corners and rub vertical movements, and not in a circle. Where elevations are noticeable, the tool is pressed harder; on depressions, on the contrary, the pressure is reduced. During operation, solution accumulates on the side of the grater, so it must be cleaned off periodically.

When grouting a large area, the cover can dry out quickly, making it more difficult to work with. To soften the coating, it is periodically moistened with water. You can use a spray bottle or place a bucket of water next to it and prepare a wide brush with long bristles. The same brush is convenient for removing excess solution from the grater.

Grout with mortar

If grouting is carried out with the application of a mortar, the procedure will be as follows: make the mortar a little thinner than the plaster mixture, scoop a little directly onto a grater, apply the tool to the wall and, with pressure, distribute the composition over the plane. The grater must be held at an angle to the surface. Having smeared the solution, press the float blade against the wall and thoroughly rub everything in a circular or arcuate motion. Try to rub intensively, applying even efforts, then smoothing will occur faster and with better quality.

This type of application requires very little solution, but grouting takes a lot of time, and it is better to do the mixing in small portions to avoid hardening. When processing one plane, the intervals between grouting adjacent areas should be minimal - take a break only to prepare the solution. While moistening each subsequent square, slightly moisten the already rubbed edges - this will increase the adhesion of the solution and transitions will not be visible at the border of adjacent areas.

Grouting "round" and "running"

Treating the surface with circular movements is called “circular” grouting. This method allows for good compaction plaster layer, get rid of all the tubercles and depressions. But it still does not provide ideal smoothness, since the circular movements of the grater leave noticeable arc-shaped marks. Of course, under tiles or textured paint such a basis is quite suitable, but under regular paint these irregularities are clearly visible. Where the smoothest possible surface is required, it is necessary to perform grouting in another way - “running”.

Grouting “in a circle” must be carried out on wet plaster and immediately after grouting “in a circle”. Only if these conditions are met can you achieve excellent results. There is no need for a solution here, and moistening is performed only when necessary. Another important point– the grater must be absolutely clean, smooth, with rounded edges. If the tool is not cleaned of the solution, the hardened crumbs will leave scratches on the surface, as well as sharp edges of the blade.

For convenience, the surface is treated in small areas– about 1 m2. The grater is pressed against the wall and moved up and down along the plane with measured, precise movements. While grouting, try not to lift the tool from the plaster, and maintain the same pressure all the time. Horizontal or circular movements are not allowed here - only vertical ones.

Smoothing the surface

Smoothing is the final, but optional, stage of surface troweling. Some master plasterers replace grout with it, but only if factory-made ones are used. plaster mixtures High Quality. For smoothing, use a grater covered with felt or rubber, or metal. In general, the process is reminiscent of grouting, only the surface is processed twice: the first time the movements are performed strictly vertically from top to bottom, the second circle is horizontal.

Grouting decorative plaster

The pattern of decorative plaster is formed in two ways - during application and after the solution has set. In the first case, smooth trowels are used for grouting, which make it possible to remove sharp protrusions on the surface and soften the relief of the pattern; in the second, both smooth and textured trowels can be used, depending on the composition of the plaster.

1 way

The solution is applied to the prepared base with a spatula or trowel, making strokes in a certain order or randomly. There is no need to level or smooth anything, the main thing is that the layer of plaster is laid in approximately the same layer over the entire area, and there are no missing areas. After application, you need to wait 20 minutes until the solution sets so as not to stick to the instrument. Next, take a grater, moisten it with water, apply the cloth to the surface and, with light pressure, very carefully perform movements in one direction.

If you press too hard, the plaster will smooth out and the pattern will be blurry. And this way only the sharp protrusions will be smoothed out, the indentations will take on a slightly more rounded shape. Periodically, the grater needs to be moistened for easier gliding.

Method 2

The plaster is applied in a layer of 2-3 mm and carefully distributed over the plane with a metal spatula or rule. The surface should be as smooth as possible, without traces of a spatula, transitions or other defects. Allow the solution to dry a little (15-20 minutes) and begin grouting. It is more convenient to use a plastic grater here. Grouting is done in strips no more than 1.5 m wide.

Movements can be circular, vertical, horizontal, oblique and even zigzag, but always in one direction. This is the only way a clear pattern will appear on the surface.

Be sure to moisten the grater, and while working, periodically clean it from adhering plaster - its particles fall into the recesses and smear the pattern. Perform movements carefully, trying not to touch areas that have already been covered. After processing one strip, immediately begin rubbing the next one. To prevent transitions between the stripes from being visible, moisten the joints well with water. Do not allow interruptions in work, as the plaster dries quickly and it will be impossible to form the desired pattern.

After finishing the grouting, you should wait until the surface is completely dry and treat the walls with a foam float. Such grinding will give the coating smoothness, remove excess particles of the solution, and at the same time will not damage the design at all.

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Tool

Used for work special tool- grater. Exist different kinds of this device:

The tool is prepared in advance. If a used grater is used, it should be thoroughly cleaned of all contaminants. When purchasing a new tool - especially one made from fragile materials - it is advisable to make sure that the base is perfectly flat and free of damage.

Peculiarities

It is necessary to take into account certain nuances that will help achieve the desired result:

• To obtain a perfect coating, the coating method is used. This method involves applying a thin layer of a solution of similar composition to a dried plastered surface. The thickness should not exceed 2 mm. This option is suitable in situations where the previously used mixture included large fractions. This is typical for rough cement compositions.

• Grouting of walls after gypsum-based plastering can be carried out without covering. Due to the structure of the solution, the coating is smooth and without preliminary manipulations.
• Exist various options final alignment. Each of them is selected based on what facing material will be applied in the future.

In any case, the work will require a sufficient amount of strength and extreme accuracy.

Standard grout options

If the plastered surface will be used as a base, then there are several basic options for performing the work.

Dry grouting

This process begins after the initial setting of the coating. A metal or polyurethane type of grater is used for work.

Dry grouting of plaster using a metal float

The technology is as follows:

In this way, it is possible to obtain a wall that, after drying, will be ready for installation. ceramic tiles or wallpaper sticker.

“Catch-up” method

How to rub plaster for subsequent painting of the surface? If you use exclusively the previous method, it will be impossible to completely get rid of the smallest flaws. For such a case, the “acceleration” option is used. This procedure begins as soon as dry grouting is completed.

For the distillation method, a grater with rounded edges is used.

For work, a special grater with rounded edges is used; the surface is not wetted. An important nuance is that movements should be carried out only in one direction - vertically. That is, the coverage is divided into conditional sections, approximately 1 square. m, the grater is placed in the selected place, pressed and successive movements up and down are made. All walls are gradually being processed.

Movements when grouting plaster in acceleration

Naturally, get perfect result is possible only when plastering initially follows the rules.

Wet grout

There is another option for grouting - directly using a plaster solution. The principle is this:

1. A little of the prepared mixture is put on a grater. It is important to consider that its structure should be quite liquid.
2. The tool is applied at an angle to the surface, the composition is evenly distributed.
3. The sole of the grater is cleaned of excess.
4. Next, the tool blade is installed on the coating and arc-shaped movements are made.

On a note! This option requires a sufficient amount of time. You should also moisten adjacent areas if they dry out.

Decorative grouting methods

Grouting plaster with floats, provided that the composition used is used as a decorative one, is carried out using two methods. In both cases, the tool is selected individually. To obtain a soft relief, purchase a device with a smooth sole, and for a more expressive texture, use special textured graters.

The process of grouting textured plaster

Method one

You can wipe down the coating as follows:

1. The prepared plaster solution is applied to the base. In this case, the mixture is not smoothed. But it is important to observe one condition - the layer must be located evenly, without missing sections.
2. It is necessary to wait some time to allow the composition to set. It’s easy to check the readiness; if you press a spatula to the surface, the mixture should not stick.
3. The grater is slightly moistened and moved with light pressure in one direction. Do not apply strong pressure; this can smooth out the relief being created. The main thing is to remove excessively protruding areas.

The result will be a coating with a texture that is close in appearance to natural.

Method two

The principle is:

1. The selected composition is laid in a layer of no more than 3 mm. Unlike the previous option, it is spread evenly over the surface, you need to get an almost even coating.
2. After preliminary drying of the solution, grouting is performed. In this case, movements can be multidirectional.
3. The grater is sometimes moistened and excess composition is removed.

On a note! If you use a textured tool, the relief will be even more pronounced.

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Grouting plaster - practical guide with explanations

How and why plaster is grouted, what tool is used for these purposes. You will learn about this and much more from the article and not only get acquainted with the technology finishing, but you can also do the work described with your own hands.

Why is grout needed?

Illustrations	Reasons for grouting concrete walls and gender
	Leveling the plastered surface. Tightening rough plaster as a rule does not allow ensuring optimal quality for subsequent application of putty. By rubbing, you will level the surface, reduce the consumption of putty and simplify the work associated with its application.
	Grouting putty (grinding). After the last finishing layer is applied to the wall to be finished, you need to wait for the putty to dry, and then remove all the unevenness. For grinding, use a grater with sandpaper or a diamond mesh.
	Application of decorative plaster. There are ways decorative design, in which the required texture of the applied mixture is given with a special grater. By working with a grater, you can apply horizontal, vertical and even circular patterns. A typical example is bark beetle plaster.

Grouting technology

Illustrations	Technological methods for performing grouting
	Manual method. Manual processing of plaster is used on surfaces with small area. The manual method is suitable both for smoothing rough plaster and for applying mixtures with a decorative effect.
	Mechanized method. This method involves the use of mechanical equipment with a rotating disk. Advantage mechanical method, in comparison with manual, this is higher productivity and better surface quality. The mechanical method, like the manual one, is suitable for both ordinary and decorative plaster. But using a rotating disk when decorative finishing allows you to apply only a circular pattern.

Grouting tool

Illustrations	Hand tools and their description
	Wooden grater. This is a classic solution that has long been used in plastering work. The advantage of the tool is its durability, since the grater blade does not wear out for many years. The disadvantage of the tool is its heavy weight, which makes your hands tired after prolonged use.
	Foam grater. This is the modern version wooden instrument with the same configuration, but with less weight. The disadvantage of the tool is its short lifespan, since the foam sole wears out quickly. However, the low price of the tool allows you to replace it as needed. The most common and easy-to-use grater size is 120×240 mm.
	Sponge grater. This universal tool, which is used for wet leveling (washing) of plastered surfaces and tile joints.
	Metal smoother. Essentially, this is the same grater, but made of polished stainless steel. Due to the smooth sole, such a tool does not rub the plaster, but smoothes it out. Therefore, it is preferable to apply a semi-liquid putty or covering mixture using a trowel.
	Putty spatula. A wide spatula (from 40 cm) is used for smoothing gypsum plaster.
	Water spray. During leveling, the plaster layer gradually dries out, and therefore the sole of the trowel and the surface to be treated are regularly moistened with water.
	Lighting. To achieve acceptable quality of plaster you need good lighting. To do this, a spotlight is installed on the side of the surface to be leveled. With the correct direction of light, all missed irregularities will be visible.

Illustrations	Tools for mechanized grouting
	For vertical surfaces. Such plastering and troweling machines are used for finishing walls. The device is lightweight, since the machine has to be held in your hands during the entire working time. Devices of this type use an electric motor with a low degree of vibration, which greatly simplifies the leveling of plastered surfaces.
	For horizontal surfaces (floor screeds). These machines are characterized by increased dimensions and weight, and are used for smoothing floor screed in large rooms. The use of such units is advisable on almost dry substrates.

Methods for manual grouting of cement-sand plaster

For manual plastering work, two methods of surface treatment are used - circular grouting and spreading. The difference between the two methods is the direction in which the grater is pulled.

With the circular method, the tool is guided in a circular motion with slight pressure. When processing a surface during acceleration, the tool moves up and down.

Practice shows that it is more difficult to grind in a straight line than in a circle, but the result of the work done will be more accurate. If you need a perfectly flat surface, both methods are combined - first the grouting is done in a circular manner, and then the smallest irregularities are removed by smoothing.

Mechanized grouting

The work is performed on a dried cement surface, on average 2-5 hours after applying the solution. The surface is wetted with water and then wet cement screed we go through it with a trowel.

Smoothing the screed is performed in several passes. The number of passes is determined by the evenness of the base. In case of significant unevenness, we lay a covering in the pits - a cement-sand mixture, diluted to a creamy consistency.

Smoothing out uneven surfaces vertical walls is performed on the same principle as working on a screed. Large irregularities are filled with a mixture made thicker than the covering solution. During smoothing, we periodically moisten the cement surface using a spray bottle. As the disk, covered with felt or felt, fills, we clean off the sludge - the adhering mixture.

Smoothing gypsum plaster

Gypsum plaster, unlike cement plaster, is not rubbed off, but smoothed over. This can be done with a metal trowel or a wide spatula.

The tool is applied to the plastered surface at an angle of 20-30 degrees and pulled in the direction from bottom to top. Next, the tool is moved horizontally from right to left, and then from left to right.

The work is carried out on a still damp surface, so sludge will accumulate along the edge of the trowel - do not shake it off, as it will fill small depressions.

Grouting decorative plaster

The “bark beetle” is rubbed down - a decorative mixture that includes stone backfill (granite chips with a small fraction). During grouting, the crumbs are moved with a float through the thickness of the plaster, as a result of which straight or curved patterns appear on the surface.

By giving one direction or another to the grater, you can give the necessary direction to the crumbs and, as a result, form a pattern. By moving the grater vertically, you will get a vertical, straight “bark beetle”. By moving the grater in a circle, you will get a circular “bark beetle”. The direction of the pattern in the circular “bark beetle” will depend on which direction the movements are directed - from left to right or from right to left.

Let's sum it up

Grouting plaster is a very useful skill that is indispensable when carrying out finishing works both inside and outside the house. If you still have questions about leveling plaster surfaces, ask them in the comments to this article.

May 17, 2018

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Beginners often ask the question, what do they use to rub down the walls after plastering? Covering and grouting the surface treated with plaster is the final stage of the work. Sometimes grouting is replaced by smoothing, and the same tool is used for the job. The tool certainly affects the quality of the coating, but the composition of the mixture is no less important. How to rub over the plaster to make it look attractive?

Usually, for the finishing coating, sand with a fine fraction is added to the solution, which should be of normal fat content. If you plan to tile the wall, you can add coarse sand to the solution. In this case, the wall will be rough and will provide better adhesion between the materials.

If you add gypsum to a lime-based solution, you will get a decrease in the strength of the plaster.

The greasy mixture, after applying it to the surface, will cause many streaks left from the tool and training. This plaster is best used for the smoothing process. An area treated with thin mixtures does not last long and is difficult to grout.

If this is your first time deciding to do the repairs yourself or you don’t have the time, it is recommended to use ready-made mixtures that can be purchased in specialized stores. For beginners, this option will be the most acceptable, since due to the poor quality of the solution that you prepare yourself, you will have to redo everything in the future.

Grouting methods

How to grout correctly cement plaster everyone who plans to do the repairs themselves needs to know. There are two ways to grout a plastered surface using trowels: in a circular manner and in a sweeping manner. These two operations belong to the general procedure for plastering walls and ceilings.

It is worth knowing that you can only use circular grouting if you do not need a smooth surface. For high-quality coverage it is necessary to resort to both methods.

Circular grouting

To carry out this procedure, press the grater against the wall, while making circular movements with your hand. It is better to make movements in one direction - counterclockwise. It will be easier for you to make sure that the edge of the grater removes all the hills in the area. At this time, the removed solution will fill the small holes on the wall and thus level the surface to be treated.

Experience suggests that the tool must be pressed harder in the place where there are tubercles. And vice versa, reduce the force of pressure on the grater in places where depressions occur. At first glance, the technique seems simple, but it requires some training.

During the working process, a solution accumulates on the side of the instrument, which is best removed from time to time. Otherwise, it may fly off into your face since you are working very close to the surface being treated. There is also no need to dump excess solution on the floor. It can be put together on a spatula and used to fill chips and holes.

When grouting a plastered surface using floats, there are some nuances. This process requires patience and precision. Over time, the plaster sets and becomes more difficult to grout. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly moisten the already dry surface with water using a brush, broom or brush.

Even with great effort, traces of the grater remain on the surface. You can leave them if you don’t need completely smooth walls. For ideal surface treatment, it is necessary to carry out the work using the distillation method.

Competitive grouting

Using this type of grout, you can achieve a completely flat surface, which is prepared mainly for painting. It is important to perform this procedure on wet plaster, and, preferably, immediately after grouting in a circular manner. This work is best done in small sections.

Using a perfectly level grater, move your hand up and down without lifting the tool from the wall. To prevent scratches from the tool on the surface, its edges should be rounded. And do not forget to monitor the moisture content of the coating.

Experts know how to grout plaster to give it the best effect. They start grouting with a wooden or polyurethane float. After this, you can use a grater with a felt attachment to best quality processed plane. For further painting, the walls are treated with a metal float, which gives it a glossy appearance.

At expensive repairs Using a high quality mixture, many craftsmen use smoothing plaster instead of grouting. At the same time, they use the same tool, only of better quality. This surface treatment operation should only be performed on smooth and damp plaster. The smoothing procedure is carried out first in the vertical direction and then in the horizontal direction.

When the plaster has been applied to the surface and the walls have received preliminary leveling, all that remains is to apply the finishing layer with a putty mixture in order to prepare for wallpapering, painting or other decoration.

Find out further in the article what you need to do this as correctly as possible and without resorting to the services of workers.

In the photo - a wall ready for wallpaper after puttying and applying primer

WHAT THE INDUSTRY OFFERS US

So, how to treat walls after plastering? Each putty option is used in certain areas, which often overlap.

Let's take a closer look at the materials.

1. Cement is a dry mixture in bags, which is used for sealing joints and finishing leveling brick and concrete walls for painting. Can be used externally as a solution on water based. With its help you can create a layer of 2-7 mm, its price is the lowest.

Preparation of cement putty

1. Gypsum - crushed gypsum powder which contains some additives. Environmentally friendly “breathable” material, which is used only for interior decoration. Before use, dilute with water until thick as sour cream. Three types are offered:
   • fugue - does not shrink, is used for sealing gypsum board joints;
   • starting - has a coarse grind, which makes it possible to create a layer of 5-20 mm. Can replace plaster when leveling walls using plaster guide rails (beacons). Does not shrink when dried;
   • finishing - a mixture of very fine grinding, makes it possible to create a layer of 0.5-3 mm. Shrinks greatly when drying, so thicknesses greater than 2 mm must be done with caution.

Applying gypsum putty

1. Acrylic - offered in thick form ready mixture in an airtight container. It is very plastic, makes it possible to obtain ideal smoothness, which is very important for further painting of the surface, and forms a thin layer.

Working with acrylic putty

There are some features of its composition.

For example, when the wall will subsequently be covered with wallpaper, it is not advisable to use this putty:

• there is no need to lay out the surface underneath them like that;
• the acrylic layer under the liquid glue may become soft and come off the wall along with the wallpaper.

HOW TO PREPARATE A SOLUTION FOR GYPSUM PUTTER

Please note that you must know how to prepare the gypsum mixture correctly, since the surface must be treated immediately. After 40 minutes the material will become hard and impossible to work with.

Tools for work

Prepare a clean, wide container, such as a plastic bucket, and fill it one-third full cold water. Add putty to it with a trowel until it stops sinking. Mix the solution until smooth using a drill with a mixer attachment. After this, the latter should be washed immediately.

Tip: do not apply the mixture to the surface immediately, let it sit for about 5 minutes.

HOW TO CORRECTLY LEVEL SURFACES WITH PUTTY

Let's consider the sequence of plastering work and the technique for carrying it out.

1. Assess the curvature of the walls to understand how to level them. To do this, prepare a rule more than a meter long or a piece of drywall.
2. Apply them to surfaces with your own hands in different directions and different places. This way you can determine where the work surface has dips or bulges:
   • when the differences are large, more than 50 mm, you will have to;
   • if the differences are 10-50 mm, they can be leveled with spatulas using the starting mixture;
   • If the wall curvature is no more than 10 mm, use only finishing putty.

To seal a smooth plaster surface, it will be enough to apply 1-2 layers of finishing or acrylic mixture.

Checking walls for curvature using a building level

Advice: before treating the wall, decide whether you will have electrical installations before or after plastering. It depends on the method of laying the cable - hidden or open.

CORRECTLY APPLY PUTTY

The basic technology will be proposed below, so each master develops his own with practice. However, without primary knowledge it will be quite difficult to achieve this.

Prepare the corners for plastering the walls, making them as even as possible:

• internal - for this you can use paper tape with two aluminum strips. It makes it quite easy to make the corners perfectly straight;
• external - a perforated aluminum corner, which is secured with plaster mortar, is perfect.

Sealing corners

When applying the putty layer there is no need to use beacons or reinforcing mesh. However there are others specific features, which should be known and taken into account.

For example, using tools:

• the basic rule is that you should definitely clean it using hard brushes after use and rinse with water;
• You need to use two spatulas at the same time - the main and auxiliary. The first is intended for applying the solution to the surface, the second is for collecting putty from a container and removing excess from the main tool.

Advice: don’t be afraid to use, after some practice you will understand that it is more convenient to work with them.

Technique

1. The subsequent layer should be applied after the primer has dried, which most often should be applied to the surface. Due to it, the adhesion between materials is significantly increased.
2. Apply finishing materials, just like plaster, follows from the corners - internal or external.
3. Pull the putty from a dry place to a wet place, i.e. the newly applied layer. This technology makes it possible not to leave tool marks on the leveled areas.

Surface filling technique

1. If the unevenness of the plaster layer is wavy and placed horizontally, the putty should be applied in vertical stripes, and vice versa.
2. Use an auxiliary spatula to distribute the solution along the blade of the main tool. Then stretch it in a wide motion across the surface. Then remove the excess from the spatula and use a clean blade in the opposite direction to compact and level the surface.

GRINDING

The last stage is surface grinding. For gypsum putty use sanding mesh or sandpaper large rooms. Work should only be carried out when the surface is completely dry.

If you need to wipe plaster mortar, let's look at it in more detail. Below is a step-by-step description of the work, explaining how to wipe down the walls after plastering.

Prepare:

• wooden grater;
• brush to remove dust;
• hammer;
• ironing board

1. Wait until the plaster is slightly dry before starting grouting. It is recommended to use a wooden grater because plastic ones are not as effective or durable.

Tip: make sure that the mixture is still damp at the time of grouting so that it does not need to be moistened with water.

1. Make sure that when the wood is abraded, drive the nails deeper in time, for which use a hammer. Hold a grater in one hand and a brush in the other, which should be used to remove emerging and settling dust from the surface. Grouting movements should be circular counterclockwise, not longitudinal. That's what it's called - circular grouting.
2. During the process, the float cuts off various bumps and fills the depressions on the surface of the plaster with them. Therefore, it is not desirable that the material does not dry completely and still has the ability to set.

Surface grinding

1. Press the grater blade at the points of large tubercles, and in flat areas it should be slightly reduced.

Tip: do not throw away the solution that settles on the edges of the grater. Clean it into a container; it will come in handy when you need to grease a surface somewhere.

1. Remember simple rules grout:
   • Clean the solution from the edges of the grater in a timely manner, otherwise it will fall off on its own and scatter in different directions;
   • moisten the cover with water when it is very dry and can no longer be processed, but do not allow the solution to become very thin due to splashes.

1. The final stage of preparing the surface after scraping with a float is the use of special trowels that will improve the final result and make it smoother. To do this, it is recommended to use tools with a rubber base. average size. When preparing a wall for painting, it is recommended to use a special metal trowel.

Using a wide spatula

PUTTY LAYERS

A difficult question is how many layers should be applied to the surface, which cannot be answered unambiguously. If you manage to cope with one, great, there’s no point in continuing. There are often places where you have to apply more layers than others.

Tip: do not rush to apply the next layer, wait until the previous one is completely dry.

Treating walls after plastering with putty, although it is a complex and even somewhat creative stage of any repair, it will be possible to master the initial skills of working with two spatulas after half an hour to an hour. After this, you will do everything almost automatically.

CONCLUSION

After applying the plaster layer, there are several ways to further develop the repair - prepare the surface for wallpapering, painting, decorative plaster or under tiles. In each situation you need to act differently.

This article discussed the main actions after plastering the walls. The video in this article will help you find additional information on this topic.