Dismantling a toilet is not the most pleasant task. However, this procedure is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Anyone can reinstall it; it is enough to know how the entire structure is attached to the floor and pipes. Special attention need to pay attention to the tank. In this article we will tell you how to replace a toilet in an apartment.
Hygiene
It is important to protect yourself before work. After all, replacing the toilet yourself can lead to various infections. For example, if there are unhealed scratches on your hands, bacteria can get there.
During dismantling, fragments fly off from the old unit, which can injure the technician.
In addition to your hands, you should also protect your eyes, where infection can also easily get into.
- You must definitely wear gloves on your hands.
- Eyes are protected with glasses.
- The dismantled device must be treated with an antiseptic to minimize the number of dangerous bacteria. You can use bleach or bleach.
What types of device are there?
Toilets can be almost new or Soviet. The difference between them lies in the nature of the fastening.
- New products are usually installed using plastic fasteners. During dismantling, such fasteners are cut off. Tubes in new products also plastic or metal-plastic, and it’s easy to disconnect them.
- Soviet products of this type are built directly into the floor. As a rule, the attachment point is filled with cement. To dismantle such a unit, you will have to break it. However, these devices are very old, and you shouldn’t feel sorry for them. Using a handy tool, you can easily remove them. The pipes that connect old Soviet toilets to communications are sometimes made of steel. These pipes will have to be unscrewed or cut down.
Preliminary work
Dismantling
Having determined the type of fastening, you can begin to work.
- With the old Soviet fastening method, you must first remove the bolts. They can be unscrewed or simply broken. Most often, they are no longer susceptible to the influence of the tool, so it is easier to break off the heads. Then you will have to break out the toilet itself. It is very firmly mounted into the sewer pipe, because in those days they made it to last for centuries. Having completed dismantling, you need to clear the work area for installation of a new unit.
- If the model is relatively new, then you won’t have to break anything. You need to unscrew the bolts, which most likely are not too rusty yet. Next, you need to disconnect the plastic pipe from the sewer system.
Before installation
After dismantling the toilet is completed, you can proceed to preparing the site for the new unit.
- The place needs to be cleared construction waste, fragments of old materials and dust.
- The sewer hole must be covered plastic bottle so that nothing gets in there. The issue is also being closed.
- At the dismantling site, it is necessary to make markings for new toilet. Marks are first made on the floor for the bolts. Then you should drill using diamond drill holes.
- You can mount a new product on the prepared place; for this you should purchase a special mounting kit. The kit usually includes:
- 2 plastic dowels;
- 2 long screws;
- washers and gaskets;
- screw caps.
Choice
Choosing a toilet is a very important undertaking. After all, it will stand in place for more than one year. Therefore, you need to choose the kit that best meets all the requirements.
If complex structures break down, they most likely cannot be repaired on their own.
Most often, people do not consider choosing this device a difficult matter. The list of requirements for it is limited to convenience, lightness and, sometimes, color. Most buyers don't go further than this. But besides external characteristics, each model has its own technical indicators. Leading companies in the plumbing market regularly update the lineup products, producing more and more interesting new products. Focusing only on appearance and the convenience of the toilet, you may soon encounter problems that will not be easy to solve. Before you make a replacement, you need to think about some characteristics.
- When choosing a device, you need to take into account the size of the bathroom or toilet. For big ones spacious premises It is recommended to purchase designs with a bidet and a tank. If the size of the bathroom is very small, then you can organically fit a toilet without a tank into the space. Such models have a special built-in flushing system. They are very convenient and will save space in the room.
- The material used to make the unit is very important. By purchasing cheap products, the consumer runs the risk of receiving low-quality ceramics, which will very soon ruin all the pleasure of the purchase. Of all the offers for the home, it is better to choose models made of porcelain and earthenware in the middle price segment.
- Of great importance internal form bowls. Some of the models have a special surface that protects against splashing.
- The design of the flushing device is also important. It is selected taking into account the features of the communication system in the house. There are three types of such structures: vertical, oblique and horizontal. To do right choice, you need to look at the features of the flushing device in your system.
- Today there are many models of cisterns. It is necessary to take into account the noise level of the tank, its capacity and other indicators. You should also pay attention to the location of the tank relative to the toilet itself.
It is known that it is easiest to establish the most simple models. Usually they also do not cause any particular problems during operation. Choosing too complex design, the consumer may later regret his choice. In the simplest models, most problems are associated with the drain tank, which is not difficult to repair.
Video
Replacing the toilet may be necessary when changing the design toilet room or in case of a simple breakdown of a plumbing fixture. The work of professional plumbers is quite expensive. In addition, it is difficult to coordinate the time of the operation. To avoid such problems, you can change the toilet yourself. Read on to find out how to do this.
Removing an old toilet
The toilet can be:
- floor-mounted, that is, installed on the floor of the toilet room;
- suspended, that is, attached to one of the walls of the toilet room.
The choice of dismantling method depends on the type of installed toilet.
Removing a floor-standing toilet
Before proceeding with the installation of a new plumbing product, it is necessary to dismantle the previously installed toilet. The work is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The water flowing into the drain tank is blocked. To do this, just close the valve on the water pipe;
- The water line is disconnected from the toilet tank. To complete the job, you will need a wrench of the required size or an adjustable plumbing wrench;
- All water is drained from the tank. To avoid spillage, soak up any remaining liquid with a soft cloth;
- The toilet tank is removed. To do this, you need to unscrew the fixing bolts located in the bottom of the drain container;
- at the next stage it is necessary to determine the method of connecting the toilet outlet and the sewer pipe. Currently, the connection is equipped with a rubber collar sealed with sealant. Previously, the joint was sealed with cement mortar:
- if the joint is equipped with a cuff, then for dismantling it is necessary to carefully cut the layer of sealant and remove the seal from the sewer hole;
- if the joint is covered with cement screed, then to disconnect the toilet from the sewer you will need a hammer and chisel. Cement strainer using tools, it is crushed into small pieces and gradually removed.
The work of removing cement must be carried out extremely carefully so as not to damage the sewer inlet. Otherwise, when installing new plumbing pipes will need to be replaced.
- After disconnecting the toilet from the sewer, you can begin to directly dismantle the plumbing product. The toilet can be attached to the floor:
- using fixing bolts. In this situation, a screwdriver and wrench. The decorative caps are removed from the bolts, after which they are quite easy to unscrew;
- with help epoxy resin. In this case, it will be practically impossible to dismantle the plumbing without damage. To remove the toilet, you need to slightly rock the product in different directions until the retaining adhesive seam is partially destroyed. When performing work, you can slightly help with third-party tools, such as a knife;
- using taffeta (wooden spacer). Removing a toilet from taffeta is quite simple. It is necessary to unscrew the fixing bolts. However, after dismantling the plumbing, it is necessary to remove wooden spacer and fill the vacated space with a cement-concrete mixture.
You can begin installing new plumbing after the solution has completely hardened, which takes up to 7 days.
- The place where the toilet is installed and where the plumbing is connected to the sewer pipe is cleared of debris and other contaminants.
Removing a wall hung toilet
You can replace a wall-mounted toilet with your own hands in the shortest possible time. To dismantle an old plumbing product, you must:
- slightly loosen the bolts securing the toilet to the installation;
- disconnect the plumbing fixture from the drain tank and sewer;
- completely remove the toilet from its mountings.
It is more convenient to do the work of dismantling a wall-hung toilet together, since it is impossible for one person to simultaneously loosen the fixing bolts and maintain the plumbing fixture at the same level.
Installing a new toilet
Method of installing a new toilet, as well as dismantling old design, depends on the type of plumbing product.
Installation of a floor-standing toilet
How to change a floor-standing toilet and install a new product in place of the dismantled plumbing? The work process consists of the following steps, which are recommended to be carried out in the order indicated:
- toilet assembly. It is necessary to attach the cistern to the bowl and install its fittings:
- during installation, you must be guided by the attached diagram;
- the tank is installed on a rubber o-ring;
- The tank is fixed with special screws included in the sanitary ware kit. Each screw must be equipped with an individual rubber gasket to seal the connection;
- attached to the toilet outlet rubber cuff, necessary for connecting plumbing to the sewer inlet. When installing the cuff, it is recommended to use silicone sealant, which allows you to obtain a stronger and more durable connection;
- the assembled plumbing fixtures are placed in the chosen location. Checks whether the device can be connected correctly to sewer network. Markings are made on the floor for mounting bolts;
To avoid installing the toilet in the future wrong place It is recommended not only to determine the area where the fasteners are located, but also to outline the body of the toilet leg with a marker. Additional markings will allow you to clearly install the toilet in the chosen location.
- in the marked area, holes for fastenings are drilled;
- dowels are installed;
- The toilet is finally installed in place and the plumbing is connected to the sewerage system and water supply. After installation, it is recommended to seal the connection between the floor and the toilet leg with sealant.
Replacing a toilet on video from step by step instructions The execution of the work is presented below.
Installation of a wall hung toilet
Installation, subject to preliminary installation of the installation, is carried out in several simple steps:
- the toilet is connected to the sewerage system and the drain tank;
- The toilet is fixed with mounting bolts.
Knowing simple rules and the instructions presented in the article, you can replace the old toilet with a new one without any difficulties.
Replacing a toilet is required when the old product becomes unusable. More often, dismantling an old toilet and installing a new one is in demand in older buildings, where all communications need to be updated. Replacing the toilet tank and other parts yourself is not difficult. However, it requires basic skills in working with tools (a hammer drill, a drill, etc.) and the ability to fill and lay tiles. Read how to install a toilet in a private house with your own hands and watch the video tutorial below.
Removing an old toilet
Dismantling and installing a toilet in a private house or apartment is a familiar task for plumbers, but for ordinary people this procedure can become a real problem.
The question often arises of how to remove a toilet that is out of order. Toilet removal includes:
- Turning off the water.
- Disconnecting the water supply from the toilet cold water. Dismantling of the flexible connection is carried out using an adjustable wrench. If it is made of metal: cut off a piece of pipe and unscrew it, attach a flexible liner.
- Dismantling the old device: free the old product from the fasteners (unscrew the screws, knock down the cement).
- Then you need to drain the toilet by tilting it back a little.
- Disconnect the device from the corrugation and bell, for which the latter is cut down to required sizes, and install a new corrugation.
In general, this dismantling of the toilet can be considered complete. Dismantling an old toilet is not so easy, since not every product can be easily removed. It happens that the device is already wobbly and can be removed by simply disconnecting it from the sewer riser and from the water supply. But in “Khrushchev” buildings everything is often much more complicated.
Plumbing fixtures often end up embedded in the floor. And it is almost impossible to get it out of there intact, so first they break it. This is how a toilet is replaced in a Khrushchev-era apartment. Many homeowners still do the same. Therefore, the question often arises: how to change a toilet with your own hands?
Replacing a toilet with your own hands requires certain steps and caution. Dismantling a toilet that has served its useful life involves removing cast iron tee. The latter is equipped with two outlets: 10 cm each for the device itself, 7.5 cm each for other sewer pipes. Since it will be fulfilled complete replacement pipes to plastic ones, then a 5 cm bend will be necessary so as not to install the reduction in a metal tee.
Dismantling the tee is advisable due to its large dimensions. After all plastic product much more compact. Dismantling of the existing tee is carried out with the utmost care, careful loosening and so as not to cause harm to another tee located in the sewer riser. Now you know how to dismantle the toilet or change the product yourself.
Please note: not every leak of the device requires its replacement; often it is enough to change only the corrugation or the tank.
Replacement of individual equipment
Before you take it off old toilet and check to replace it, maybe its complete dismantling is not required. Sometimes it is enough to change only a few failed elements: change the drain, corrugated pipes, tank or fittings.
Let's look at how to install a flush cistern on a toilet if it needs to be replaced:
- First, the water supply is turned off.
- Then the water is drained from the tank.
- After this, unscrew the hose from the valve or tank, and then remove the mounting bolts of the toilet tank.
- We dismantle the old tank.
- The installation site of the new drain tank is thoroughly cleaned of any traces of rust.
- Now the new tank is bolted to the toilet shelf and sealed with gaskets.
- When the replacement of the old toilet cistern is completed, fittings are installed in it, which is also sealed.
- Lastly, a flexible hose is screwed to the float valve and the water supply is turned on.
5 simple steps on how to change the corrugation on a toilet:
- First of all, you need to pump out the water from the pipe, lifting it slightly towards the drain.
- Then you need to remove the old corrugation by removing the dried sealant, cement and the old outlet in the socket with a chisel.
- After this, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer pipe and outlet from any dirt and debris.
- Wipe the inner edges of the bell with a dry, clean cloth and apply a sealing solution.
- Then we apply sealant to one edge of the corrugation and install it all the way into the sewer socket. We put the other edge on the toilet flush and seal all the connections.
That's all the subtleties of installing a corrugated pipe on a toilet. If desired, everyone can replace it themselves, putting a little effort and diligence into this matter.
Watch a video tutorial on how to replace the fittings in a cistern:
Preparatory work for installation
Regardless of what will cover the floor (tiles or regular screed), you need to wait time for the mixture to dry on the floor surface. This will take about a week. This is due to the fact that the toilet is fixed using fasteners and dowels, which require a reliable and solid base. In this situation, the hardened solution will act as a similar base.
Next, you should prepare those participating in the communication installation process. The area where the drain will be connected must be cleared of various contaminants and salt deposits in advance. Otherwise, it will not be possible to connect the toilet with sewer riser as needed. That is, the corner or corrugation in the outlet cup will not fit tightly, and a leak will definitely appear.
A tap should also be installed at the connection point of the drain tank so that it is possible to carry out repair and cleaning work without completely turning off the water.
DIY toilet installation
Installing, replacing or assembling a toilet yourself consists of the following steps.
- Before installing the toilet, install a plastic tee in the outlet of the sewer riser. This action should not cause difficulties if the outlet glass has been thoroughly cleaned. If the tee is fitted too tightly, it is recommended to lubricate it with any detergent.
- Next comes installing the toilet in its original position and connecting it using corners or a corrugated hose to the riser outlet. At this stage, it is necessary to evaluate how well it will fit into the bathroom in this position: is there enough space to open the door inside, will it be comfortable for a person sitting. This position is outlined with a pencil or marker. Having marked the points of attachment of the product to the floor surface, the toilet bowl is removed.
- At the designated points, drill holes for toilet mounting dowels. Usually their sizes are 10-12 mm. It often happens that the kit does not contain a 12 mm drill (the dowels are exactly 12 mm), then you should, without hesitation, boldly change the dowel to 10 mm. A drill with a diameter of 10 mm is used. A 12 mm dowel bolt is also suitable for smaller volumes of parts.
- Having placed the dowels in the holes, connect the device to the riser. Make a slight tilt of the toilet to the side. Silicone sealant is applied along the previously drawn line, and the installation of the toilet is completed by placing it back.
- The installed plumbing fixtures are pressed very carefully with bolts to prevent pinching. After this, the bolts are covered with decorative caps.
- Then the tank is attached to the toilet. The tank itself does not require assembly, since this has already been done at the factory. At the same time, do not forget to use the rubber gaskets included in the kit.
- Tighten the clamping bolts in the toilet one by one. The first is clamped so much that a clear distortion of the tank is felt. Next, press with your hand from above and align, tightening the second bolt.
- To connect the tank to the water supply, use a high-quality hose. It is not recommended to choose rubber products with a metal shell for these purposes. Rust can corrode the casing, causing the hose to break in this place. It is most advisable to purchase reliable metal plastic or products in metal corrugation.
- After connecting the device to the water supply, unscrew the tap and wait until the tank is filled. Control the drain.
- When the drain connections are moistened, the hose or corners are removed and wiped dry. After treating them with silicone, they are put on again.
At this point, the installation or assembly of the toilet with your own hands is considered complete.
You may need to install or replace a toilet under a variety of circumstances: moving, renovation, or unexpected breakdown. If you don’t have time to wait for a plumber or want to save money, then it’s quite possible to do it yourself.
Tools and accessories
Before replacing the toilet, you need to make sure that everything you need is at hand.
- Toilet with cistern. It is better to opt for monoblocks, in which the toilet itself is attached to the cistern. They are well adjusted to each other, there is no need to worry about leaks. A rubber seal - trapezoid - between the tank and the toilet is included in the kit. If the tank and toilet are purchased separately, then you definitely need to buy it. Bolts for screwing the toilet to the floor are also often included in the kit; if they are not available, then select fasteners of a suitable diameter, usually 10 cm long.
- Hoses and pipes. You will need a flexible hose in a metal braid of sufficient length to connect the tank to the water supply, as well as a corrugated pipe to connect the toilet to the sewer. They need to be paired with rubber gaskets and a sealing collar for the corrugated pipe. Flexible pipes allow you to slightly vary the installation location of the toilet and make this work easier, although water supply and drainage can also be done using polypropylene pipes.
- Thin piece of thick rubber 1-2 mm thick for the backing under the toilet to prevent cracking of the tiles on the floor.
- Tool: hammer drill with 10 mm concrete drill, keys, screwdriver, pliers. If the pipes are metal, then you will need a grinder or a hacksaw.
Preparation: removing the old toilet
Before work, remember to turn off the cold water supply and empty the drain tank. Water supply pipe and sewage pipe are disconnected.
The old toilet is unscrewed from the floor. If the joint has been coated with cement or glue, you need to clean it off as much as possible with a screwdriver or chisel. If the toilet is very firmly glued to the base, you may need to carefully break it with a sledgehammer. To completely remove all the water from the toilet siphon, the device is tilted back.
If others are planned renovation work in the toilet, then the toilet is installed after their completion. When replacing only this device, you still need to try to level the floor underneath it using rubber pads or cement mortar.
Installing a toilet
First you need to mark the installation location. Most toilets come with a paper template that makes this easy to do. If it doesn’t exist, then you can simply make it yourself, and drill holes along it and insert dowels into them. A thin layer of rubber is placed under the base of the toilet, the toilet itself is placed and the hex head screws are tightened. It is important not to overtighten them so that the tiles do not crack. The toilet must stand firmly, without swaying or moving. The joint between the toilet and the floor is sealed with silicone sealant to prevent water and dust from entering it.
The joints between the toilet and the sewer pipe with the corrugation are coated with sealant, then gaskets moistened with water are placed, and the pipe is attached to them. The end of the pipe can be connected to the toilet outlet pipe before installing the device, this will make it easier further work in a cramped room. You can connect the toilet to the sewer inlet using only a cuff, if you place it close to the wall.
Toilet models come with 3 types of drain pipe placement: parallel to the floor, at an angle of 30-40 degrees and into the floor. The latter are rare and are installed mainly in private homes. When choosing a toilet, you need to take into account what type of connection the sewer pipe is designed for, then installing the toilet will be easy.
When the toilet is securely fixed, you can install it on it. A rubber trapezoid is placed on the platform at the rear, and the tank itself is bolted together using rubber washers. First, the bolts are inserted inside the tank, and then pass through the holes in the toilet and tightened with nuts from below. The drain hole of the tank must exactly coincide with the hole in the toilet.
The internal structure of the tank differs among different models, and when assembling it, you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. Finally, using a flexible hose with nuts at the ends, water is connected from water pipe to the tank fitting. The connections are glued with sealant or FUM tape, tightened with a wrench and checked for leaks.
After installation, it is necessary to carry out several test flushes to ensure that no water is leaking.
Advice. If you plan to replace the toilet in an old house, then make sure that the water in the apartment can be turned off. Otherwise, you will have to wait for help from a plumber and turn off the water in the basement.
How to install wall hung toilet, .
By understanding the technology for installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and get the job done to the highest possible quality. The toilet can be mounted traditional way or more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a positive effect on the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions for completing each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With a solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to manufacture toilets with a length of 575 mm) | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Children's | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
Set for work
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
In the case of installing a toilet on an installation, the listed list will be expanded with the corresponding set. Everything you need can be purchased at any plumbing store.
Removing the old toilet
First step . Turn off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step. Unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If that doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step. We dismantle the toilet mountings.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer.
In older buildings, drains are usually secured using cement coating. To destroy it we use a hammer and chisel. We need to crack the cement and carefully rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and become loose. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring Sixth step. We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
Important! Sewage gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account as you work.
Getting ready for installation
The base for installing the toilet must be level. There are several options for the development of events, namely:
- if the floor is tiled and does not have differences in level, we do not carry out any preliminary measures to level the base;
- If the floor is tiled and is not level, we install the toilet using choppers. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, the choppers are driven into them at a level, and then the toilet is attached to the choppers using screws;
- if it is planned to replace the tiles, we will dismantle them old cladding and fill in a new screed if the old one has differences in level;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to the pipes. The sewer line is cleared of debris and various deposits; we install a tap on the water supply line (if it was missing before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
Installation procedure for a regular toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Markings on the floor for fasteners Second step. We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step. We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.
Fifth step. We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with a wall outlet
Prices for components for toilets and urinals
Accessories for toilets and urinals
If the release is made into the wall, we work like this:
If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following:
Helpful advice! If the toilet connection is drain pipe is performed using corrugation; in most cases, sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.
Seventh step. We are installing the tank. Drain mechanisms, as a rule, are sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (assembly procedure for different models may vary slightly).
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:
Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.
Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use.
Modern version installations. A special wall installation is used in which the tank mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and flush button remain visible.
We install a wall-mounted toilet on the installation
Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is installation of the frame
We install a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable using brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet bowls.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
Second stage - hanging the tank
The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- Place the drain button at approximately a meter distance from the floor;
- between the fastening points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm;
- We hang the wall-mounted toilet at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
- between the cistern and the wall we maintain no more than 15 mm distance.
The third stage – we install the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are detected, do the following:
Stage four - install the tank
First we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost everything modern models tanks allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing a toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank using a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, will you want to destroy the frame casing in order to replace such a hose in five minutes? That's it!
The best way to connect is to use plastic pipes. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that’s not always the case.
We connect the outlet of our toilet to the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the flush and move the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may vary depending on the product model. Let us clarify these points in separately and follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Fifth stage – covering the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it in a double layer. First we do the following:
- screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet (included in the kit);
- We close the drain holes with plugs (also included in the kit) so that they do not become clogged with dust and debris;
- We make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We attach the sheathing sheets to the frame using special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening pitch at 30-40 cm. The structure will have small sizes and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.
We cover the drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Helpful advice! Before tiling the box, we install a plug and cuff at the future location of the drain button. Usually they are included in the kit.
Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet
Stage six - installing the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on pins (we installed them at the previous stages of work). These steps can be done in reverse order, as you prefer. Tighten the fastening nuts.
Important! The tile that will come into contact with the surface must first be covered with a layer of silicone sealant(you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The installation instructions remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Keep your knee position firmly in place. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the plumbing product and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the markings.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into the drain pipe and secure the plumbing product using bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. The installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installing a wall-mounted toilet model.
Seventh step. We insert the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for permanent use.
Read our new article- and also find out what types there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Good luck!
Video - DIY toilet installation