How to bury a water container. Installation of barrels for sewage. Metal containers - advantages and disadvantages

Making a toilet out of a barrel in your country house with your own hands is quite simple. You just need to find a container of suitable volume, which is made of reliable materials, and install it in a pre-dug hole. After constructing a booth made of wood or brick, you will get an outdoor bathroom. It can be used at any time of the year. At the same time, it has all the necessary characteristics that an outdoor bathroom for a summer cottage should have.

Country toilet

Characteristics of a bathroom using a container

One of the most successful design schemes cesspool for a toilet in the country is one where a container without a bottom is installed in the hole. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to pump out the accumulated liquid, since it is absorbed into the soil. Due to the small amount of waste, they have time to penetrate into the ground. Moreover, their volume should not exceed 1 m 3 per day. If you neglect this recommendation, waste will accumulate in the cesspool from the container. This will lead to the formation of an unpleasant odor in the area.

This option for arranging a cesspool is not suitable for dachas where high level groundwater. In this case, all sewage will penetrate into the soil, where it will contaminate the drinking source.

That's why the best way out The solution to the current situation is to install a volumetric sealed barrel. It will act as a septic tank.

In this case, it is necessary to regularly pump out the liquid using special equipment. To avoid doing this too often, you need to install a large capacity container.

To reduce the size of the septic tank, in this case it is recommended to install a complex structure.

It involves installing two or even three containers where waste will accumulate. Moreover, the last of them can be made without a bottom.

In this case, it is necessary to additionally use aerobic or anaerobic strains of microorganisms. They are added to the first container, where they break down biological waste. As a result, solid particles settle to the bottom. The already purified liquid is transferred to the next container. It, passing through an additional filtration layer of sand, enters the soil without polluting it.

Also, when choosing a scheme for arranging a cesspool, you need to choose the right material from which the barrel will be made. It is best to use metal or plastic containers. Each of these types of materials has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account before the installation process.

Metal containers - advantages and disadvantages

Metal containers that you can install yourself have a number of significant disadvantages that directly affect the durability of the constructed structure. These include:

low corrosion resistance of the material. After 3-4 years, such a container becomes unsuitable for use, since it is impossible to repair it;
in most cases, this option for arranging a cesspool can be expensive. Metal containers are quite expensive;
complexity of installation. If you use a large container with massive walls, it is quite difficult to install it without the help of special equipment;
You can only use containers whose wall thickness reaches 15-16 mm. They are often very difficult to find.

The advantages of this material include their resistance to frequent temperature changes. He's not afraid very coldy when deep layers of soil freeze. Also, such a container is heavy, which will more securely fix it in the ground.

Plastic containers

For constructing a cesspool with your own hands, plastic is considered more good material than metal.

It has many advantages:

long service life. Plastic can be used for arranging a cesspool for a toilet in a country house for 40 years;
due to their light weight, these containers are very easy to install without the help of outsiders or special equipment;
plastic is resistant to the harmful effects of biological fluids or special chemical compounds that are used to process waste;
prevents wastewater from penetrating through the walls of the container into the soil;
the cost of such a container is quite low;
The plastic is very durable and will not collapse under pressure from soil or runoff.

The disadvantages of this material include its instability to exposure low temperatures. To fix this, the plastic walls of the container must be insulated with a layer mineral wool. Also, a plastic barrel can float due to its light weight.

To prevent this, its walls must be securely fixed in the ground.

How to choose the right place to install a bathroom?

When choosing a place to install a toilet with your own hands in the country, you must adhere to the following rules:

The first stage is the arrangement of a cesspool from a container

When constructing an outdoor toilet from a plastic barrel with your own hands, you must first dig a pit of suitable dimensions. In this case, the use of a galvanized metal container is also allowed. But you need to take into account that it has a much shorter service life.

The pit for a toilet that you build yourself should have a depth that is 25-30 cm greater than the height of the container. This is necessary to create a filtration field, which will help clean the waste, and clean liquid without harmful impurities will be absorbed into the soil. Also, this pit should be 10-20 cm wider than the tank. This gap is needed to fix the tank inside the pit.

When the hole is dug, fill its bottom with a layer of fine crushed stone 20 cm thick. Lay sand on top by another 10-15 cm. In this case, each layer must be carefully compacted so that no voids form. After this, you need to install a barrel without a bottom so that its upper edge rises 7-8 cm above the ground surface. In the future, this will greatly facilitate dismantling the container.

You need to fill the sides of the walls with crushed stone. It should reach 2/3 of the height of the container. Place a layer of clay on top to the ground level. When the hole is completely filled, cover the surface of the soil with fine gravel. Also, add an additional layer of sand on top, reaching the level of the top edge of the container.

Pouring the foundation

In parallel with installing a container without a bottom with your own hands, or after that, you need to start building a foundation for the future toilet. This construction phase consists of the following processes:

Construction of the above-ground part of the street toilet

After constructing the foundation for the outdoor toilet with your own hands and installing the container, you need to start building the booth. This process consists of the following steps:

You need to lay a piece of roofing felt on the surface of the foundation.
A wooden beam measuring 100x100 mm should be used for bottom trim bases under the floor. Before this, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution.
To build solid foundation, install the bars around the perimeter of the structure and in the middle of the long side of the structure, attach them with nuts, having previously placed them on metal pins.
Using 40 mm thick boards, build the floor of the future toilet. In this case, it is necessary to leave a hole under the toilet where the container is located.
Attach 4 wooden columns to the corners of the base. Two of them should have a height of 2 m, and the other two should have a height of 2.2 m. Choose bars with a cross section of 100x50 mm. They need to be attached using metal corners and wooden spacers. Before final installation of the frame, check the verticality of the posts.
On the front wall under the doors, install additional columns of the same section. The width of the opening should be 0.7 m and the height 1.97.
Fasten the racks on the other side with a vertical jumper at a level of 1.77 m, which will also serve as the base for the roof.
Along the structure, leaning on the installed jumpers, attach two rafter legs.
As roof sheathing, use 40 mm thick boards, which must be attached to the rafters using regular nails.
Install to the grid covering using screws OSB sheet, which will act as a base for the roofing material.
Use a soft coating as a cover. bitumen shingles or roofing felt. It is necessary to choose materials that will not create additional load on the structure.
For wall cladding, use a tongue-and-groove or half-tongue board 2-4 cm thick.
To prevent the inside of the building from being hot in summer and cold in winter, you need to make thermal insulation with your own hands. To do this, install foam sheets in the inner plane of the frame. After this, you need to additionally sew up the walls with another layer of board.
For all wooden elements apply a special impregnation that will protect their surface from the harmful effects of moisture and other negative factors external environment. You can also additionally use fire retardants.
Install doors on the curtains. You can equip them with a small window to illuminate the interior space during the daytime.

Interior design of an outdoor bathroom

Before interior work Inside the room you need to lay a cable for the lighting device. This can be done with your own hands by entering the electrical wiring through a mast, which must be attached to back wall bathroom. At the same time, its height is 2.5 m. Cable routing should be carried out open method. The wire cross-section must be at least 2.5 mm 2. For lighting, use a lamp with a power of 40 W or less.

To construct the seat, use bars with a cross-section of 30x60 cm. Build a frame 400 mm high from them, and attach them using self-tapping screws. The finished structure must be sheathed with plywood or OSB board. In this case, you must remember to leave a hole in the place where the plastic container is installed. As a final step, attach the seat with cover, which is used for regular toilet. When everything is ready, paint the interior and exterior of the bathroom with paint or varnish, which will extend its life and help keep the wood in its original condition.

So in a simple way you can build it yourself outdoor toilet using a regular container made of plastic or metal.

Video: Septic tank: types, principle of operation and installation

When constructing cesspools or local treatment facilities Quite often they use ready-made containers from various materials. This approach makes it possible to somewhat simplify the installation process and save on the construction of pit walls.

A sewer barrel allows you to get a sealed tank for collecting and processing sewage with minimal financial costs.

Such containers have been used quite widely over a number of years. The main reason was that metal barrels for sewerage, as well as tanks of various sizes, were quite easy to purchase at residual value during the collapse of many industrial enterprises.

At the present stage, purchasing a metal container of significant volume is quite problematic and expensive, so most often standard household 200-250 liter metal barrels are used to install small drainage pits.

Due to the fact that the volume of such a sewerage structure will be limited, the feasibility of using such material exists only when constructing a pit on summer cottage, where it is not expected permanent residence and the volume of waste will be insignificant.

These barrels are highly durable and can withstand significant mechanical loads.

But it is also worth considering that metal constructions have and whole line disadvantages that significantly limit their scope of application:

Low resistance to corrosion and rotting. Most household barrels are made of thin sheet metal, which, together with the aggressive properties of sewage and groundwater, significantly reduces the working life of the sewer storage device.
The limited volume will lead to the need to constantly remove collected wastewater from the pit. At the same time, the issue of their disposal will definitely arise; it is inappropriate to call sewage disposal equipment for 200 liters.

By and large, metal household barrels can be used as casing pipe for a small drainage well. In this case, you can even dock 2-3 barrels, which will increase the volume of the device. The metal will prevent the pit walls from crumbling, and the removed bottom and staggered holes will ensure moisture filtration.

Of course, using a metal tank will allow you to build a septic tank that meets all the requirements. Some manufacturers produce similar installations, but such a device will have significant weight, which entails the need to use lifting equipment during installation.

Plastic containers for sewage

Plastic barrels for sewerage are quite popular today. Finding a vessel with a capacity of up to 3-4 cubic meters is not difficult, and such a volume is already enough to construct a full-fledged overflow septic tank.

The advantages of barrels made of polymer materials Experts attribute the following properties to them:

Resistance to corrosion processes, due to which such a container can be used for up to 30-50 years.
High mechanical strength, which is practically not inferior to metal containers.
Almost all types of plastic used are resistant to aggressive chemical compounds included in sewage and groundwater.
The plastic container ensures the tightness of the septic tank; it does not require additional waterproofing.

For the sake of objectivity, it is worth mentioning significant disadvantage push the barrels.

Despite its light weight, it has a significant volume. It is this factor that can lead to the container being pushed to the surface under the influence of groundwater or frost heaving of the soil.

In this regard, the installation of a septic tank from a plastic barrel requires additional measures for its fastening.

Before burying a barrel under the sewer, it is worth determining its optimal location on the site. There are a number of quite tough sanitary requirements according to permissible distances to residential buildings, site boundaries, and water supply sources. If possible, you should entrust the choice of installation site to an experienced specialist who will be able to take into account all the nuances of the site and the placement of buildings and communications.

The plastic barrel is installed in a pre-prepared pit, the dimensions of which must exceed the dimensions of the container. This will allow you to insulate the structure if necessary and secure the container securely.

The depth of the pit should ensure that the barrel is installed so that the level of the inlet hole coincides with the depth of the supply sewer pipe:

A sand or crushed stone cushion with a thickness of at least 20 cm is placed at the bottom of the pit.
After this, it is necessary to concrete the base, and it is worth installing a frame with anchors or hinges for subsequent fastening of the container.
After the foundation has gained sufficient strength (5-7 days), you can begin installing the barrel into its working position.
The container is secured to the foundation using a bandage of cables or steel strips.
If necessary, insulate the septic tank using polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam.
Before backfilling the soil, it is necessary to fill the container to a certain level. In this case, it is worth following the manufacturer’s recommendations; containers made of different polymer materials may have their own backfilling characteristics.
All incoming and outgoing communications are connected to the barrel, ventilation pipe, after which it is finally covered with soil.

When securely fastened and observing other technological requirements for installation plastic barrel can serve as a septic tank for quite a long time. Today, polymer containers are considered one of the most the best materials for these structures.

It is not enough to supply water to the house; after use it needs to be disposed of somewhere. It’s hard to carry it out with buckets, and it’s somehow pointless: the water comes into the house on its own, and then you have to carry it out on your own two feet. You need at least basic sewerage for your home or cottage. The option of simply removing the pipe from the house and draining the water onto the ground or a small hole will not suit everyone. It doesn't look very good, and bad smell from this puddle or hole is almost guaranteed. What to do?
So, we will need: an old metal or plastic barrel, a certain amount of sewer pipes (at least 6 meters, preferably 110mm PVC), a tee, an outlet, about 0.5 cubic meters of medium-fraction crushed stone, a shovel and several hours of our precious time.
We choose a place for our drainage well. Preferably, no closer than 5 meters from the house, no closer than 20-25 meters from the well or borehole and below them along the groundwater flow. Digging a hole with a diameter larger diameter barrels at least 0.5 m (diameter of a standard barrel 0.6 m, height 0.9 m, volume 0.2 cubic meters) and a depth of about 1.5 m (deeper is better). We make holes in the walls of the barrel, if it is metal, then with a grinder, if it is plastic, then with a wood saw with a fine tooth. We make a hole for the incoming sewer pipe in the wall, near the bottom of the barrel. We fill the bottom of the hole with at least 20 cm of crushed stone and place the barrel upside down, oriented the hole for the pipe towards the house.
Now you need to dig a trench under the sewer pipe, bringing it to the place you need. The pipe must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per meter towards the barrel. It can be brought into the house either under the foundation or through a hole in it. There is no need to insulate the pipe; the water flowing through it will warm it up perfectly. Not far from the barrel, we place a tee with a small piece of pipe extending above the surface of the ground to circulate air inside the barrel and allow air to exit the sewer when it is filled from the house (so that the air from the barrel does not go into your house). We insert the pipe into the barrel through the hole made for this. We fill the gap between the barrel and the wall of the pit with crushed stone to the full height of the barrel. It is advisable to put some kind of non-rotting material at the bottom of the barrel (a piece of old slate is perfect). We fill both the trench and the hole with soil, compacting it thoroughly. We make a hole in the floor or wall of the house, finally introducing the sewer into the house. Further at your discretion. On a piece of pipe sticking out of the ground not far from a buried barrel, you can put a plastic mushroom, which is difficult, but can be found in stores.
And now the nuances.
This is exceptional drainage sewer for the home, it will not cope with fecal waste, it cannot be cleaned or maintained in any way, and it is not intended for this. This sewer can be used for drains from the kitchen or bathhouse. Drainage wells from a septic tank have the same device.
The microclimate for bacteria that process wastewater depends on the depth of the pit. Ideally, the depth of the pit should be: depth of soil freezing + height of the barrel + height of the crushed stone cushion (for the Leningrad region: 1.2 m + 0.9 m + 0.2 m = 2.3 m). But digging so deep is difficult and not necessary. The effluent also warms the barrel.

If the soil at the site where the sewage system is installed is clayey, and the water leaves the barrel slowly, then the sewage system for your home can be slightly improved. To do this, you need to lay another sewer pipe, or better yet, a drainage pipe. This pipe may discharge water into a drainage ditch at the border of the site, or it may lead nowhere, ending in a dead end. The purpose of this pipe is to divert excess water from the barrel, thus increasing the area of water absorption into the soil (irrigation area). The pipe is laid in a trench on a crushed stone bed and is also covered with crushed stone and then with soil. The depth of the trench is greater than that of the supply pipe, and the slope is directed away from the barrel. Naturally, the sewer pipe will have to be damaged by a number of holes in the lower part to improve water flow, making it like a drainage pipe. This is not required if the pipe is placed in a drainage ditch.

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To be honest, I’m a little surprised that someone’s sewer system can freeze. Sewer pipes, in principle, cannot freeze, there...

Reviews (38) on “The simplest drainage system for a summer residence.”

Thank you for the useful article and adequate answers. I’ll start doing it tomorrow. I hope the pipe in our Transbaikalia will not freeze. Of course, I agree with you that a significant inclination needs to be done. By the way, I don’t understand whether the pipe will be enough for 50 or is it necessary for 100?

Depends on the distance and characteristics of the problem being solved. It is better to make 110th PVC, it is more reliable, although more expensive. At distances of up to 5 (five) meters, you can make 50 (fifty dollars), but, preferably, also PVC (not always available in stores) - as it is more durable and frost-resistant. This is, after all, an external sewage system, not an internal one.

1. What can happen to the 50th pipe? Silt up, get greasy, get soapy? Or will it clog up tightly?
2. Red (I mean for external wiring) or will it be gray (for internal wiring), since it will only be used in the summer? The store said that it is better to look for black (Soviet) - LDPE - polyethylene high pressure. What do you say?
3. My plot has a slope. Along the fence just downhill. I realized that it was better to dig it in.
4. Soil - loam. Where are they usually sent? rainwater from the roof? To another hole?

Answers, Vladimir.
1. And not only that, Vladimir, especially in loams, even on the surface. For example, it can be bent by swelling of the soil so that the slope in some area is broken. The consequences are the same, it will clog in general... If it doesn’t break.
This also happens with a 110-pipe, but much less often, of course, if the basic installation rules are followed.
2. It definitely won’t work for “internal wiring.” You need PVC for external sewerage. For internal sewerage PP is usually used. You won’t dig it up for the winter...
A “black pipe” is usually a HDPE pipe, not a LDPE pipe (I haven’t heard anything about LDPE pipes until now, maybe I don’t have enough experience). In principle, you can do it if you find it, but problems may arise with connecting pipes to bends (turns) and exiting the house. If you are not a “specialist”, then it is better not to experiment.
4. Rainwater is usually directed into the drainage system around the house, which discharges it into a drainage ditch. Other pipes are used there - “drainage”, corrugated plastic pipes with perforation and protection with geotextile.
In loamy soil, it is necessary to make at least a small irrigation field for house drains (a small drainage system is just for this purpose). Because loamy soils do not absorb water well. On the other hand, if you are “on the go,” then the usual crushed stone sprinkling around the barrel (simplified drainage system) should be enough for a long time.

Of course, you can put rainwater drains into this sewer system, but... Then there will be a high probability of damage to pipes by autumn and spring waters during “crossing zero”, because you do not control the volume and composition (maybe with ice) of these waters. That's why they do it drainage pipes perforated, i.e. “leaky” so that the water can drain away on its own. And if you install drainage pipes instead of sewer pipes, then these holes will quickly become clogged with house drains (“silt and get dirty”) and will not work. This is not to mention the possible unpleasant odors along the entire 20 meters of the pipe. So better sewerage separately, and rainwater drainage separately.

Thanks for answers. I will think.
And the last question:
It is impossible for me to go outside through the basement (floor slabs and 60-cm concrete blocks on the foundation).
I'll just poke holes in the side of the frame and then proceed with external wiring. Accordingly, I don’t want to make holes at 110. I will go out 50. 110 PVC will go on the ground.
How to connect the exit through the log house and PVC-110 external wall Houses? This is three meters in a straight line and all five with turns.

I didn’t quite understand the question, Vladimir. Inside the house you use fifty dollars for the interior, i.e. PP pipe. You let it out into the street through the wall of the log house, just carefully “seal” the gaps, there should be no drafts. And then move on to the 110th PVC, and you are driving it. From the exit of the log house to the 110th PVC you can use the same fifty dollars, only not far. For example, lower it with turns down to the foundation (it’s hard to say, without imagining the possible route), then an oblique tee with a revision, just in case, into which to insert an eccentric transition from fifty dollars to a hundred. And the 110th went.
In principle, it is permissible to install a fifty-kopeck piece on the street “in plain sight” (if I understand correctly, this is the problem), but it is advisable that it is also a PVC pipe, otherwise there may be the same problems as “under the fence”. Yes, and it needs to be fastened well and carefully, leaving gaps for thermal expansion. Fifty dollars of PVC is sold, but not everywhere, you'll have to look for it.
AND general advice, just in case you are a fireman, avoid right angles. If necessary, make them prefabricated, for example, 45 plus 45, with inserts between them. Right angles get clogged well, but are difficult to clean.

Yes, you understood everything correctly. It’s just that not a single salesperson in stores (I visited about five) has come across PVC-fifty. I will search further. From the exit from the log house to the location of pipe 110, I need to walk about five fifty meters along the wall (from below there is an entrance to the garage). We need to find PVC.
But the old Soviet black pipes that were previously laid in apartments (50) are not PVC by any chance? They were still standing cisterns suspended above your head

No, Vladimir, “old Soviet black pipes” are polypropylene, very rarely polyethylene low pressure, the dye was just different. Look in specialized stores, at construction bases, where they sell professional 4- and 6-meter sewer pipes, possible without bells. I'll tell you how to connect them, it's not difficult. There are tips for everything on the Internet. Look in the store at the address: Ufa, Oktyabrya Avenue, 97, “All Instruments” store. They promise three-meter 50 mm PVC for 202 rubles, however, for electricians. As a last resort, you can put internal PP pipes 50 mm, you just need to watch them. Check in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!
I know this store and have been there. This is an online store. All goods must be ordered and received upon arrival of the goods. I'll definitely check their website.
Just a passing question: will I finally find fifty dollars? PVC pipes. But all sorts of turns and other things also need PVC? This is probably completely unrealistic. I'll look on the Internet and on their website.
Thank you again for your attention.

Hello again, Vladimir.
I ask your forgiveness. Having “scoured” the Internet in search of fifty dollars worth of PVC, I actually discovered that these pipes are only available in St. Petersburg and Moscow, and not always of local production. I live almost in St. Petersburg. Therefore, well, buy fifty dollars of PP, just look not for the standard cheap 1.8 mm PP, but for 2.0 or 2.2 mm, at least some margin of safety. In principle, fifty rubles of PP are installed in non-critical sections of the sewer system, without thinking about the consequences. You will just have to keep an eye on this area, as I already wrote, mainly in the spring, at the opening of the dacha season.
The PVC I found in Ufa is unlikely to be suitable, they are for protection electrical wires. Their wall thickness is only 1.5 mm. Why the search engine gave them to me as a sewer(!) is a mystery to me. So make fifty dollars of PP from the house to the fence. This is not possible, but if you really need it, then...

Thank you for this article for the advice. I just had a situation where I bought myself a multistage pump. A plumber arrived and installed it. Everything worked like clockwork and there was no problem. When I was tired the next day and looked into the mine, there was water there and the water almost flooded the pump. But if I had a water drain, this would not have happened. You will need to redo your mine.

Recently, the construction of country houses and holiday cottages has been experiencing a real boom. And this is no wonder, because every city dweller from time to time is drawn to the city - to take a break from the hustle and bustle and breathe fresh air. It is no secret that construction, one way or another, is associated with many problems, including the issue of draining groundwater from the foundation. Also, considerable damage can be caused by melt and storm drains. Due to the fact that soil waterlogging is a fairly common phenomenon, it is necessary to take a number of measures to combat water stagnation. So, in areas with good landscape, it is extremely necessary surface drainage. To collect water in areas it is necessary to install special storage tanks horizontal, as well as storm or drainage pipes.

Many people who are just starting to build their country houses, a fair question arises: what exactly are these containers for? The answer is quite simple and concise - they are beneficial. Firstly, these containers allow you to accumulate water underground, preventing leaks. Secondly, the water that gets there can be successfully used for irrigation or some other household needs. After all, it undergoes a fairly “decent” cleaning through soil layers. Moreover, it is not necessary, as is usually the case, to install a pressure pump with a surface reservoir for irrigation purposes, which will take up additional space. A pump of a type that can be immersed in a buried container will suffice. The only negative regarding watering from this container is that the temperature of the water in it, as a rule, is no higher than five degrees, which may not be good for some types of trees.

Besides, horizontal containers made of plastic, can be buried to any convenient depth, and the holes in them, with a diameter of 65 cm, allow you to carry out the necessary maintenance of the tanks without any problems. The plastic itself, from which these containers are made, is known to be not subject to the destructive effects of moisture, and therefore does not rot. Also, if it is installed not in the ground, but on the surface or close to it, you can not be afraid of the harmful effects of the July sun or January frost. Therefore, we can conclude that these containers are quite convenient and at the same time durable during their operation.

It would also be useful to mention the fact that the stiffening ribs of such a container, which make the body more elastic, create additional resistance to external influences, as a result of which it does not lose its shape (does not deform). These properties allow you to use these containers and how underground water tanks, and as containers for sewerage in small treatment systems. As statistics show regarding consumer preferences, many summer residents bury tanks made of either carbon fiber or metal in the ground. The main criterion, as a rule, is the price of the material, so in this case it is more advisable to deal with carbon plastic, because in its own way technical properties it surpasses even steel in strength and stability, and is quite inferior to it in weight and price.

It is known that underground plastic water containers are the basis for household wastewater treatment plants. At the same time, they are no less good in quality drainage wells, and, in drainage systems of any complexity. If you need to store water in larger quantities, you can connect several containers plastic pipes, build an entire underground bunker. This approach is the most optimal compared to just a huge tank, since a system of several containers is more mobile and easier to maintain.

In order to use a horizontal container as a storage tank, you first need to dig a pit under its dimensions. Then comes the filling concrete slab, the mass of which must necessarily be greater than the weight of the container with water. Next, you can install a container that needs to be secured with slings made from a material that does not contain iron - nylon slings are best suited. The next step will be to connect the necessary pipes to the container and fill the entire structure with a mixture of sand and cement. If necessary, you can equip this container with a special sensor.

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We want to bury a container for water and container for sewerage...which ones to take, please tell me who has encountered this :)
Official response from SIVTRADE LLC:
For sewerage, containers from the section "Underground Tanks" (http://baktrade.ru/catalog/emkosti-podzemnye) or "Septic Tanks Underground" are suitable for you. domestic waste"(http://baktrade.ru/catalog/emkosti_pod_bytovye_stoki). They can be buried in the ground. Any container will suit you for water, but it will be more convenient to bury a cylindrical one, lowering it into concrete rings with waterproofing (this is important!). Otherwise, the rings will leak water, and you will have to keep the container filled at all times to prevent groundwater from squeezing the tank.
Sincerely, SIVTRADE LLC
drainage container required