To repair barrels, flasks, buckets, watering cans, and cans, I use a primer to protect the bottom of cars. You can also use bitumen, but you need to heat it up and sometimes add diesel fuel. It must be used quickly, because... in a small container it thickens quickly. The primer, even if it has thickened (dried), you need to add gasoline and leave it for a day. If you urgently need it, you can dilute it with stirring to the desired consistency in a couple of hours. There is no need to rush when working with primer. And you also need roofing felt or roofing felt. You may need bolts, washers, and nuts.
In 2011, we bought used 200 liter barrels for 200 rubles and 100 liter barrels for 100 rubles.
In a 100 liter barrel, I cut out the top of the barrel with a chisel and placed it in a greenhouse.
In a 200 liter barrel I also started cutting out the top, I had already cut 5 cm, but I changed my mind and cut out a hole for the bucket in the cylindrical part. And around the punched gap I coated it with primer. From several pieces of roofing felt I made one of the required thickness and length. Each piece was coated with primer and inserted into the cut slot using a screwdriver with a wide flat slot. The protruding ends of the roofing felt were pressed in different directions to the plane of the barrel. When it dried, I missed it again. I primed both barrels, inside and out. I just needed to sand the paint, because... The primer didn't stick well to it. This year we will have to prime again.
In barrels, flasks, buckets, watering cans, if there are holes small sizes You need to drill holes according to the size of the hole. Take a bolt with a nut, two metal washers. Outside diameter washers are 10-20 mm larger than the hole diameter. Make four (or six) washers from roofing felt (you can use rubber, paronite, etc.). The outer diameter is equal to or slightly larger than the metal washers. The internal diameter of these washers is equal to the diameter of the bolt or slightly less. We put a metal washer on the bolt, then 2 washers made of roofing felt. Insert the bolt into drilled hole. Place 2 roofing felt washers on the bolt, then a metal washer. Throw on the nut and tighten the connection.
Plastic buckets may burst around the bottom over time. Until the bottom fell off at all, I cut out a circle from felting felt, with a diameter of 4 centimeters larger than the diameter of the bottom. On the cut out circle I drew a circle equal to the diameter of the bucket. I made radial cuts to the circumference. The bottom of the bucket and the circle on one side were coated with primer. The circle was glued to the bottom of the bucket. You can also seal the bottom of metal buckets if they are very rusty. The outside should be primed, and they will serve for many more years.
In some plastic 5-liter buckets, the bottoms burst in straight lines. I glued strips of felt felt onto the primer. These buckets can be used for more than just water.
In watering cans with a narrow neck, where a hand cannot fit through the hole, in canisters, we illogically drill a hole. Then we insert a wire of small diameter, but quite rigid, folded in half to the neck from the outside. Attach the bolt with washers and carefully pull the end of the bolt out. We unhook the wire, carefully put on the washers, and put on the nut. While screwing the nut, hold the bolt with tweezers (or some other suitable tool), first under the nut, then over the nut and tighten.
If your barrel stands vertically and in some places the walls or bottom are, as they say, “a little alive.” My friend used them for another 2-3 years as follows. Took plastic bag, a little larger than a barrel, he put it inside, bending the edges of the bag onto the outer wall of the barrel. Of course, the thicker the polyethylene of the bag, the better.
Plastic buckets, cans and tanks - things on summer cottage necessary. Often, in a dacha setting, it is not possible to replace an old burst plastic container with a new product, but, if desired, it can always be repaired. How this can be done is described below.
If the bottom of a plastic bucket has burst, there is no use trying to seal it. No glue will withstand the long-term pressure of liquid poured into a container, and over time, a crack in the plastic will certainly spread.
You can repair a broken bucket much more reliably by sealing the crack in it with another suitable piece of plastic.
For this you will need:
large and powerful soldering iron;
plastic tape, which, for example, can be cut from an unnecessary PET bottle, or a plastic clamp;
any detergent.
It is necessary to seal the crack both inside and outside the bucket, and it is recommended to start from the inside, since there the edges of the crack can be placed on top of each other quite tightly, resting them against the surface on which the bucket stands.
If you start working with outside cracks, then its edges will spring, fall through and it will be difficult to place them tightly on top of each other.
However, for ease of perception, we will still consider how to seal a crack on a plastic bucket from its outer side, keeping in mind that inside the container it is already closed.
So, in order to seal a plastic bucket:
1. Its surface around the crack is thoroughly washed and degreased.
2. Turn on the soldering iron, wait for it to warm up and move its tip along the crack with smooth movements left and right, without pressing on the plastic so as not to burn it. Thus, melting the plastic at the edges of the crack, the soldering iron tip passes along its entire length.
3. Lay down sequentially plastic tape onto the crack, starting from a point slightly further from its origin. In this case, the tape is heated with a soldering iron so that the melted plastic fills the crack cavities, that is, figuratively speaking, it is sealed.
4. After soldering the cracks, a seam is obtained, which is additionally smoothed with a hot soldering iron, moving its tip along this kind of “welded” line.
This is how you can easily and without any special tricks seal a crack in a plastic bucket or any other container made of plastic. Inside the bucket, the seam is made using the same technology.
All that remains is to check whether it is leaking after repair.
Video of the process of sealing a crack on a plastic bucket:
Insert a plastic bag into the bucket.
The small size of the crack will prevent water from leaking through the bag. If the bucket is stationary, then this is the best method in terms of simplicity and implementation. This is how I repaired it plastic barrel. The instillation of molten polyethylene begins to proceed when deformed.
I haven’t tried to seal plastic buckets myself, but I have seen how it’s done. Take an ordinary plastic bag and, using a soldering iron, seal the crack with it, smearing it. You can also do this with a piece of plastic using a soldering iron. At the dacha they watered with such a bucket: the water did not leak.
Try sealing it using cold welding. If it holds water in the car radiator, then it will probably hold plastic. But I tried to melt it, but it doesn’t work, some of the plastics now being produced are incorrect))) You’ll excuse me, previous authors.
So, how to repair a hole or crack in a plastic bucket? I don’t know, what about soldering plastic, small holes in a plastic bucket can still be soldered somehow, but large cracks are unlikely to be done well. There are other options for how to seal a crack in a plastic bucket, I don’t deal with such nonsense myself, so I read it on the forum. To do this, you need to take some extra piece of plastic, then put it in some container (not a plastic one), fill it with acetone, close the lid and wait a little until the piece of plastic softens. Then add Moment glue and quickly seal everything.
And also, in special stores they sell liquid plastic in tubes; you can also use it to seal a crack in a plastic bucket or whatever you have...
Some advise applying epoxy glue to a degreased surface and fiberglass on top, and for reliability it is better to do this twice.
I would try to use a regular soldering iron in this situation! Carefully soldering the crack on both sides!) True, molten plastic would not have a very beneficial effect on the tip of this device!)
Hardware stores sell so-called welding for plastic products. The surface to be sealed must be cleaned of dust, degreased with alcohol and dried thoroughly. After this, prepare the welding: mix a small amount of the mixture according to the instructions and apply it to the crack with neat, precise strokes. Level the seam with a knife or spatula and allow time for shrinkage and drying. Do not deviate from the instructions, follow safety precautions and everything will work out as it should.
I had such a problem with a basin. A hole formed and I cauterized it with a soldering iron. The plastic melted and sealed the hole. It's been in service for 4 years now. I also repaired a bucket at the dacha. I simply covered the hole with chewed gum and smeared it across the bottom. All so-called repairs were done from the outside of the vessel. Everything lasts for more than one year.
cold welding for plastic. Clean the surface from dust and dirt and dry. Mix the mixture for no more than 5-6 minutes with your fingers. It is better to wear gloves. Use a spatula to seal the seam in the bucket.
I once repaired a hole, quite a big one, in a plastic bucket using an old soldering iron. I selected a piece of plastic that was suitable in consistency and quality, and, heating it with a soldering iron, spread it over the hole, starting from the edges, gradually, allowing it to harden. The only problem is that overheated plastic becomes more fragile in this way. But for some time this was enough.
I think that if it’s just a crack that hasn’t yet opened up and turned into a hole, you can simply run a soldering iron along the crack from the inside and outside. This should be enough to ensure strength and restore tightness)
I tried sealing plastic products by melting and dripping onto the damage. Thus, it was impossible to seal anything. Then I just started soldering holes in the plastic with a soldering iron. This method can help seal the hole.
take a mesh from, say, a car speaker, cut off the required size a little wider than the crack and solder it on the inside of the bucket so that the mesh is not soldered deep by about 1-2 mm. solder a small piece of another plastic over that place, as if you flood this area and it will hold water, and you can sit upside down.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44
like this - provided that all the pieces are selected. Don’t suggest going to a car service center for bumpers - it’s very expensive and in general I want to try it myself
Ann 14-01-2010 11:49
I myself did not believe that a broken plastic shelf from a refrigerator could be stupidly glued together with a heat gun, and it would continue to work perfectly. They just taped the seam and that’s it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and “plaster” it with a layer of glue to make it stronger.
Well, of course you need to look at what kind of plastic, some stick just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13
How many pieces?
Sometimes epoxy on a fabric base works.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17
I don't know yet
TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22
Dichloroethane is a good adhesive...
How to turn an ordinary plastic bucket into a gorgeous basket
if you first dissolve part of this plastic in it... but provided that this plastic dissolves in this substance...
Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40
When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something appears very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket
buy a heat gun and apply heated glue through fiberglass or other reinforcement. Old buckets are made of polyethylene, everything will stick together.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42
Originally posted by Sportsist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm curious - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Is the mesh brass?
yes, how... stupidly you take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - glue it right along the seam, it sets quickly, after assembling it, glue the mesh on the inside, fiberglass along the seams.
alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43
Forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, the plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then there is a high probability of polyethylene, or polypropylene, and EDC will not take it.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13
Dichloroethane most likely won’t work here... What is a heat gun? In my understanding, this is a Chinese piece of junk for 50 rubles, which spits hot-melt adhesive (hot-melt adhesive in rods)
alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18
yeah, that's it, the casing will be heavily loaded with heat? if yes, then there is dandyl heat-resistant compound
Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49
How much heat is the casing on outboard motor? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. You should try hot glue with mesh.
makarkharp 14-01-2010 15:24
I saw somewhere on motorcycle sites a comprehensive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that it was even duplicated here... search, maybe you’ll find it.
alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25
then there is a supply, take rods from 160 and that’s it.
I have experience in repairing two FUCKING holes in the plastic of the radiator using Dandil compound, heat-resistant, black. It collapsed like a monolith, and endured the shaking blows with honor.
Sportsman 14-01-2010 17:26
from 160 what is it? Temperature? Price?
alchemist 14-01-2010 17:43
temperature, the price of a kilo of rods in Leroy Choate is about 110 rubles, extrostronk
Sportsman 15-01-2010 09:44
I don’t know what Leroy is, I’ll look at our radio stores to see what they have
op-tu-mat 15-01-2010 22:31
which one did you mean?
demon 15-01-2010 22:40
cyanoacrylate type Loctite 401
Home▲▼
DIY plastic bumper repair
Even the most experienced driver cannot be insured against damage to the bumper of your car. If not you, then you. If it can be resolved through the insurance company, good. If the insurance doesn’t work, then there are two options: trust the professionals (here, too, it often happens) and shell out a considerable amount, or repair the bumper yourself.
It all starts with assessing the damage. Usually a bumper is not very expensive, especially if you buy a Chinese analogue. If the bumper is damaged quite seriously, then restoring it is out of the question - it will cost more. Repair work It is advisable to restore a plastic bumper if there is a small crack or cracks, scratches, chips, dents, or if a replacement cannot be found at all.
Before repairs, it is advisable to remove the bumper for convenience. The entire restoration process, right down to painting, can be conveniently performed on a separate stand.
Procedure
— Remove the damaged bumper;
- Wash it well;
- Delete paintwork damaged area;
— Clean the outer and inner surfaces with a coverage of 10-15 mm on the sides from damage. The paint layer removed during cleaning must be at least 0.2 mm, since upper layer surfaces often change their properties during operation, which can affect the quality of our repair seam;
— Drill the ends of the cracks (this will prevent their further growth). This is the same as when repairing cracks and chips on the windshield with your own hands;
- Carry out the actual repairs - we will consider the methods below;
— Primer and painting will be required in most cases.
To repair a bumper with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools:
— Car hair dryer. This is a special device, in appearance and principle of operation no different from a regular hair dryer. The only difference is that the flow of hot air from such a hair dryer has more high temperature and may soften or melt the plastic.
— Soldering iron. You can use any soldering iron, preferably a more powerful one. Rosin and tin are not required, this is not the case.
— Metal mesh. These are sold in specialized stores. The mesh will allow you to hold pieces of plastic together. You can use an old air filter.
— Priming. A regular can of automotive primer will do just fine. If you have a compressor and a spray gun, then that's even better. Choose for yourself - it doesn’t matter.
— Putty. No matter how perfect you are at sealing the cracks, you will still need putty. The exception is if this place is not visible.
— Sandpaper. For rubbing putty numbers 40 and 80, and for rubbing primer already 800.
— Any rag. It will be needed when washing the bumper and when working with a hairdryer, because straightening hot plastic with bare hands is not always comfortable. It is also good to use gloves.
— A piece of an old bumper. It will be needed in exceptional cases when there is not enough plastic.
It may be advisable to buy a repair kit, which includes such items as sandpaper, various touch-up paints, and fillers. Such kits are not that expensive and may turn out to be cheaper than taking everything separately, since the kits use small packaging - why do you need a whole bottle of primer for a small crack? Also putty, etc.
Bumper repair
First, a high-quality inspection is carried out in good lighting. Determine how many cracks, scratches, chips and dents there are on your bumper. We immediately calculate the amount of mesh, putty and other Supplies. It is best to do this before purchasing consumables and missing tools.
Now let's carefully examine the inside of the bumper. There you need to find extruded (in some cases melted) information about the material of the product. Depending on the type of marking, the following conclusions can be drawn:
PP type designations (PPTV20 and analogues) – the bumper is made of propylene;
mark PUR – polyurethane bumper;
PAG 6 (GF, ABS) – designation of hard plastics.
But this is not a complete list of materials from which car bumpers are made. You can also find parts made of fiberglass and similar carbon fibers, but markings are applied to them very rarely and the most that can be found is information about the manufacturer. But if your bumper is made of hard (thermosetting) plastic or carbon fiber, then repair plastic bumpers This type of repair is different from repairing products made from other materials.
Cracks.
If there is a crack on the bumper, then we will need a soldering iron and a mesh. Turn the bumper over so the wrong side is facing you and cut the mesh. It is worth making oblong pieces 2-3 centimeters wide and the cracks long in size. Bring the edges of the crack together and solder one end of the mesh. We need to drown it in plastic, but don’t get too carried away, you can just make a hole. After this, the end of the mesh should be covered with molten plastic. Next, in this way, we solder the entire crack.
Let's evaluate the outer side of the bumper. If everything is ideal there, then there is no need to do anything. Otherwise, we pass through the mesh and along outside. The main thing is to hide the ends of the mesh so that nothing sticks out. When you sharpen the putty with sandpaper, you will regret the protruding mesh hairs.
Small cracks, instead of mesh, can be reinforced with staples from a furniture stapler. The size of the paper clips should be chosen so that their legs do not pierce the body. If there are no suitable staples, then you can take others and shorten them by desired length. Use tweezers when soldering fittings, this way you will protect yourself from burns.
We place the staples perpendicular to the seam at a distance of 1-2 cm along the entire length of the fracture. We also fuse barely visible cracks and branches. Otherwise, in the future, due to vibration, they will develop into splits. To protect the staples from corrosion, completely cover them with heated plastic, pulling it from adjacent areas. After you fuse the bumper along inside, the front surface should take its original shape.
If the cracks on the bumper are large or there are fasteners nearby (places where the bumper is attached to the body), since the nearby surface of the bumper often breaks, it is advisable to tighten the crack with screws before soldering. A fairly simple but very effective method is proposed.
We take a hanger - it’s exactly called a “metal hanger for attaching guides”, these are available in any hardware store. We need it to tighten the crack with screws.
We cut it with a hacksaw or a grinder as shown in the photo, depending on the type of crack in the bumper. Usually parts 1 or 2 are used - the holes used are painted blue. Although it happens that when two cracks come together, piece of iron No. 3 is used. Below is an example of the location of the plates on a bumper crack.
In the figure, the working holes for the bolts are shown in blue. We drill holes in the bumper for the screws, put a plate on the back side, insert a screw into the holes and secure the entire structure with nuts.
If you are repairing a bumper for the first time, then be sure to carry out this procedure from the inside (and it’s better not the first time either).
Place a plate on the crack. Through the holes in the plate, drill holes in the bumper with a drill with a diameter of 3.6 to 3.8 mm. Drill so that the drill bit is closer to the outer edge of the plate hole.
the drilled hole in the bumper must be countersinked so that the screw head “sinks” into the bumper. If there is no countersink, you can use a drill instead, with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the screw head. When countersinking, do not overdo it, do not countersink right through! But you also don’t need to make the hole too small. And one more thing - you can countersink by hand, just with your hand, make a couple of turns with a large drill in the hole drilled for the screw - and the desired angle for the head is ready.
We check the quality of the soldering. Stagger around the crack after it dries.
How to repair a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister
If everything is flimsy, you will have to resolder it. However, this cannot be allowed; everything must be done for sure. After healing the crack, the surface of the bumper should also be degreased and covered with fiberglass and then putty.
Dents
If the dent turns out without a scratch, that is, the paintwork remains intact, you are very lucky. You can straighten it in minutes. This will complete the restoration of the bumper. All you need to do is wet a regular rag, turn on the hairdryer and heat the dent on the back side. They usually warm up for no more than thirty seconds. Then we wrap a damp rag around the fist and begin to bend the plastic back. We do everything carefully and without using much force. The main thing is not to push everything out. You can do several approaches with a break of ten minutes, allowing the plastic to cool.
In the case where, in addition to the dent, there is also a crack, we perform the same actions, but with the expectation of further puttying and painting the surface.
Chips and scratches
You can fight them with sandpaper. We take the largest one (number 40) and start rubbing. It is necessary to sharpen the pits, turning everything into a more or less flat surface. The hole, in fact, increases in diameter, but loses in depth. Then we will fill this depth with putty. It is advisable to use body bars if available, but you can also rub with the palm of your hand.
Detailed instructions for removing chips and scratches on a car - for those who need it.
A good result is obtained by using liquid plastic that matches your type of plastic on the bumper. Be sure to consult with the seller, first writing down the type of material of your bumper.
Apply masking tape (preferably self-adhesive fiberglass tape) to the front surface of the bumper. Mix the adhesive and thickener on the cardboard. Apply the resulting mixture onto the masking tape. This is done to level the surface of the bumper. Next, the masking tape is removed, and the surface is again cleaned and sanded. Apply to this place liquid plastic. After the plastic has hardened, you need to sand the surface.
Putty
Let's prepare the putty by adding a hardener to it. After this, we will immediately apply to the place of dents (if the paintwork is damaged), cracks, scratches or chips. This is done naturally after the above-mentioned measures to eliminate breakdowns.
You should wait ten minutes before starting work. Let's take it sandpaper number 80. Using movements directed towards the left and right edges of the bumper, begins to rub in the putty. Sooner or later you will come to the desired result. Of course, you should respect the geometry of the body if the breakdown occurs in some not very convenient location. You can apply several additional layers of putty to make the surface more even.
We prime
Let's take a rubber rag, wash the bumper and let it dry. Last time Let's check the result. If you are happy with everything, then you can start priming. We take the cans or turn on the compressor. You need to apply the primer with movements directed, again, towards the left and right edges of the bumper. Basically, you need to draw a horizontal line when spraying.
Let the soil dry completely. After this, you will need to take eight-hundredth sandpaper and wash it thoroughly. This is done with a bottle of water. No matter how local the damage is, the entire bumper is completely washed out. It should become matte after drying. And the first layer of primer will be completely washed away, leaving only gray dots in the marks and pores on the putty.
Let's apply another layer of primer, which we will also wash off. Check the evenness of the surface under the lamp. There should be no small pores or marks left. The surface at this stage should be perfectly flat.
Now the bumper is completely ready for painting. We advise you to paint everything as soon as possible.
Repair of plastic bumpers made of thermosetting plastics and fiberglass
On the one hand, this method does not require great skills and abilities from you, but on the other hand, you must strictly follow all the instructions. Only in this case can you achieve a good result.
Procedure for carrying out repairs:
we combine the cracked parts, fix them with any quick-drying glue;
prepare the epoxy resin for further use;
take a brush and coat the area of the crack ranging from 5 cm wide from the inside of the bumper;
soak epoxy resin fiberglass mat and lay it on the prepared area. If such material is not available, the mesh used to seal plasterboard joints may be suitable. In the latter case, you will have to apply another layer of epoxy.
It should be noted that during this procedure it is necessary to repeatedly apply fiberglass layer by layer so that the approximate thickness of the glued patch corresponds to the thickness of the bumper in this area. The front side of the product remains unglued. The putty used to hide solder marks and other irregularities must be designed specifically for plastic in any case. Next, you should paint the finished bumper and screw it into place. If you believe the statistics and try the method in practice, then in subsequent operation, if cracks appear on it, then in some other place, but definitely not in the place of the seam we sealed.
In any case, you should not forget that the bumper is, first of all, the face of the car and requires proper care and timely repairs. Will this be do-it-yourself repair or repairing a bumper at a car service center - it’s up to you.
I haven’t tried to seal plastic buckets myself, but I have seen how it’s done. 5. The neck is glued to the bath using hot glue. Lightly trim the edges of the holes with a drill larger diameter, there should be no burrs! 4. In the intended circle, drill 5-7 drain holes with a diameter of 4-5 millimeters.
ATTENTION! Washcloths and sponges need to be changed quite often, especially if they have lost their integrity and begun to crumble. Please note: You can bathe a child in a large shared bath only after pre-treating its surface with soda, baby soap or special detergents. Suction cup accessories must be secured before the bath is filled with water.
How to seal a plastic container?(+)Yesterday
Water getting under them and detergents reduces the reliability of fixation.
This steel structure, adjustable in height at which the bath is installed.
In the design of the bathtub, the factor of its stability is important.
This position makes it easier to pass gas and makes colic pain easier to bear. The product meets all safety and hygiene requirements.
Microban is not released into the water and does not lose its properties over time.
The material of the product contains the Microban additive, which disinfects the water when bathing.
If the bath is stationary, then there should be anti-slip pads on the legs. The accessory provides the baby with soft support and prevents him from slipping. The sponge bath shape has a profile that matches the anatomical contours of the child. Its shape includes supports between the legs and under the arms. The anatomical slide is attached to the bathtub with suction cups. A hanging hammock, made of fine mesh, is hung over the bottom of the bath using hooks.
It is a removable stand that fixes the child’s position and makes bathing safe and comfortable.
What to consider when choosing a bath for a newborn
The anatomical bathtub has a built-in support slide inside that follows the contours of the child’s body, so he feels more confident while bathing. Armed with knowledge about the types and properties of baby baths and additional items to them, you will do right choice at the time of buying. To fall asleep faster, it is recommended to give your baby a general massage; you can watch a video tutorial in this publication.
This allows you to fix the baby in a comfortable position.
Very comfortable for newborns.
The built-in drain increases convenience. It allows you to quickly and easily change the water during bathing without disturbing your child.
The bath should not be too small so that the baby can use it for at least six months.
It’s strange that almost all the accessories are mentioned here, but they forgot about swimming circles - this is about swimming in the bathroom. And when the baby grows up, you can bathe him in a spacious shared bath, and leave the nursery for future offspring. Swimming slide.
Therefore everything is available.
In some models, the stops are adjustable to suit the child's height. After use, it folds up compactly. Buying these items separately will cost less. But you can become the owner of things that you personally do not need.
Plastic products are widely used in everyday life. If they break, you need to know what kind of plastic glue you will need for repairs. To ensure a strong and safe gluing result, we advise you to become more familiar with the types of plastic and the rules for selecting an adhesive composition.
What does the marking on plastic mean?
Since some adhesives may dissolve rather than bond plastic, it is recommended that you examine the markings on the broken product. The plastic type icon looks like a triangle formed from arrows (recycling symbol). Inside it there are numbers from 1 to 7, and below there is an inscription. These identification marks determine whether the material belongs to a particular type of plastic, which will allow you to select the correct adhesive.
What types of plastic exist:
- 1 (PET) - stands for polyethylene terephthalate. It is used to produce food packaging for liquid products.
- 2 (HDPE) - high density polyethylene, intended for the production of packaging and shrink film.
- 3 (PVC) - polyvinyl chloride, better known as PVC. It is made from plastic windows, linoleum, etc.
- 4 (LDPE) - low-density polyethylene, toys for children, pipes, bottles, and packaging containers are made from it.
- 5 (PP) - polypropylene, heat-resistant material. Used for the production of food packaging, medical disposable instruments, household appliances, pipes, thermal dishes.
- 6 (PS) - polystyrene. They make it out of it disposable tableware. Foamed polystyrene is widely used in construction.
- 7 (O) - this type of plastic cannot be recycled and consists of a mixture of polymers, paper, and foil.
Glue marking
The main difficulty is that the glue markings do not match the plastic recycling symbols.
How is glue for plastic marked?:
- PE - polyethylene;
- PC - polycarbonate;
- PP - polypropylene;
- PVC - polyvinyl chloride;
- PMMA - organic glass;
- PUR - polyurethane;
- PA 66 - polyamide.
Sometimes it's easier to find clear instructions in Russian than the marking icon. But if there are no recommendations on the packaging, then the symbols will help you make the right choice.
Types of glue
Plastic has low adhesion due to its smoothness, making it more difficult to glue than other materials. In industry, such products are fastened by welding. This method is not used at home, but you can choose good glue. The principle of operation of the composition is this: it dissolves the surface, and with strong squeezing the parts are connected. Therefore, the main component of plastic adhesive is a solvent of synthetic polymers. For viscosity, the composition contains liquid polystyrene.
Liquid glue for plastic and Moment plastic The group of adhesives for plastics can be divided into the following types:
- Hot melt adhesive. Represents solid glue sticks. They must be heated before use. There are special ones, and there are also types of glue for use without a gun. This composition is suitable for small jobs, as it does not have special bonding strength.
- Contact. It is often sold complete with a hardener, which must be mixed with the bulk in the proportions indicated on the pack. This type of glue can tightly glue plastic, but there is one drawback: the product is toxic. It is necessary to use the means personal protection. For better fastening of the parts, after applying the glue, you need to wait 10 minutes, and only then squeeze them tightly.
- manufactured at water based and is considered the least effective way fastenings. It takes a long time to dry (at least a day). It is used to repair small items that are not subject to increased loads. But liquid glue samples do not deform the plastic; this is very important for working with small parts.
- Reactionary- reliable and affordable option glue for plastic. There are several types of such compositions: some are designed to work under water, others harden under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and others work on outdoors. There are one-component and two-component ones.
Advice! Do not use toxic contact adhesive to glue children's toys.
Product examples
What can be found on the shelves of construction and hardware stores:
- « Moment plastic"- a type of glue that binds many types of plastics together. It has a transparent base, sets quickly and forms a strong connection. This is a waterproof and heat-resistant composition. However, it contains toxic substances and is not used to repair products that come into contact with food or skin.
- "Super Moment"" - instant glue.
- - epoxy glue, hardens in 20 seconds. Simple and easy to use composition.
- "" is a brand that offers several types of glue for plastic. Among them are adhesive-sealant for transparent plastic, composition Plus for PVC, PMMA- adhesive for polystyrene and acrylic surfaces.
- « Second» - superglue for hard plastics. One of the fastest acting compounds.
- For minor car repairs, special automotive plastic sealants are sold.
- Rexant - hot melt adhesive, available in the form of rods. It can be transparent or colored (to disguise joints if colored parts are connected).
- Akfix HT300 - thermo- and water-resistant composition. Withstands temperatures up to +300 degrees. This adhesive sealant contains silicone. It reacts to humid air.
This is not the entire range that the adhesive industry offers. It cannot be said that any glue is better or worse. Each composition is intended for special types works Read the instructions carefully and follow all recommendations.
How to glue plastic
The type of plastic has been determined and the required glue has been selected. How to properly glue plastic objects:
- Parts should be cleaned. If necessary, the item is degreased soap solution or ethyl alcohol. A clean surface has greater adhesion and objects will be easier to stick to.
- It doesn't hurt to lightly sand the surfaces to roughen them up. This way the glue will stick better.
- Two-component compositions are mixed only after surface preparation.
- If parts are coated with glue using a brush, then use an object with artificial bristles.
- The glue is applied in such an amount that when compressed, its excess does not protrude to the surface.
- You need to squeeze objects together firmly, but carefully.
- The duration of adhesion of materials depends on the selected adhesive.
Advice! Use a needle to glue a thin crack.
Sometimes you need to attach the most various materials: wood, glass or metal. In this case, the glue must take into account the characteristics of the two surfaces being connected, and not just the plastic.
Glue Super moment Tips for work with plastic:
- For external work, waterproof glue is used.
- Despite the high temperature that the glue can withstand, plastic objects themselves should not be exposed to it.
- When working with contact glue it is necessary to ventilate the room.
- The best adhesive for marking 7 (O) is epoxy. This type is also suitable for polystyrene.
- If there is no marking on the product, then build on this: for plastic toys and artificial glass, polystyrene is used mainly; For bottles, buckets and boxes, glue designed for polypropylene and polyethylene is suitable.
Take the time to study the labeling of plastic products and glue. If repairing small toys like Lego is a simple process, then for more serious work the familiar Secunda glue may not be suitable for everyone.