A common problem when performing repairs isjoint between tile and laminate, which is formed when two coatings are connected in different rooms or zones. Due to the difference in the thickness of the materials, a small but unpleasant step appears, which must be somehow removed or decorated.
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Why is it beneficial to combine materials?
The need for such a connection can hardly be called indisputable, but in some cases this is indeed the only option for combining two materials . For example, if you use furniture or appliances with legs that spoil the laminate, use a warm floor, which is more effective under the tiles. In addition, the combination is convenient in the hallway to create an area in front of the front door with a more water-resistant and easy-to-clean coating, in the kitchen, where there is a danger of water spills or boiling water.
Joining laminate and tilesgives the following options:
- Zoning the area to create service and common space.
- Possibility of using materials of different colors or textures, creating your own design solution.
- Reduce labor costs and costs for expensive tiles.
- Formation of a more convenient coating for cleaning in areas where water or grease may enter.
We should not forget about the decorative significance of such a connection. The ability to highlight and decorate certain areas of the floor allows you to create a stylish and fashionable element of the interior.
Disadvantages of combined coating
Transition between tile and laminateit doesn't always work out well enough. The disadvantages of the technique include:
- “Rupture” of the coating, unnatural design of the floor.
- At small area rooms have to cut tiles and laminate. Violation of the geometry of the material deprives the joint of external accuracy, the result looks sloppy or unsuccessful.
- The possibility of a “step” appearing that requires some kind of decoration or camouflage.
Laminate prices
What are the types
Connection of tiles and laminatecan be done in different ways:
- Straight joint. The boundary between the two materials looks like a straight line.
- Wave-shaped joint. The border looks like a curved line.
You can simply join the materials tightly together or use one of the types of special thresholds, produced for such purposes.
Important:When choosing the type of joint, you should carefully consider the procedure, weigh your strengths and skills, and I also have a good idea of what the result will look like. If changing the laminate sheet is quite simple, the tiles will be glued to the floor; removing and replacing them will require some effort.
A straight connecting line looks neat and allows you to use entire tiles or laminate boards without spoiling their appearance.
This option is good in small areas or when connecting coverings of different rooms(usually this is done along the line of the doorway).
In addition, if the work is carried out carefully and the thickness of the materials is consistent, it is possiblejoint between tiles and laminate without threshold, which simplifies work by making the connection less noticeable.
In some cases, zigzag joining is used - the connection line runs along the end cut of the laminate boards laid offset. The result is a connection with a large number of straight lines perpendicular to each other.
Wavy joint
Curvilinear connection of materials can be used in rooms of sufficient area so that the joint can be seen and evaluate the design intent. Sometimes this method is used when it is necessary to separate zones of complex configuration, when it is more difficult to divide in a straight line than in an arc. For example, if necessary, go around pipes, beams, pieces of furniture or household appliances.
Decorativethreshold between tile and laminateperforms the function of designing a joint.The boundary between the coatings is filled with a certain composition, covered on top with a special profile, or a profile is used that is installed on top of the first coating, and the second is inserted into the groove of the profile, as a result of which there are no fasteners on the threshold (closed docking). In addition, there are thresholds consisting of two parts: the first (lower) is installed in the joint between the coverings, and the second covers the joint from above, snapping into a special slot in the lower profile. There are also transition profiles designed for the design of multi-level joints.
Prices for decorative thresholds
decorative thresholds
The materials for making decorative thresholds can be:
- metal;
- plastic;
- wood;
- rubber;
- laminate;
- cork.
The use of one type or another is determined either by the state of the existing boundary between materials (for example, the need to somehow smooth out an existing “step”), or the method of forming the joint is itself selected for a certain type of threshold.
Attention! Choosing floor docking thresholds, it is necessary to provide for the characteristics of the coating materials, the possibility of precise and accurate cutting or processing of both materials.
Flexible thresholds
Flexible thresholds are designed to form curved joints between tiles and laminate.They are made straight, which allows them to be used on both curves and straight sections. Basically, aluminum profiles with teeth on the underside adjacent to the base are used. To bend, you need to deepen them with a hacksaw. Flexible threshold made of PVC is able to bend without additional processing, although some samples require heating to form an arc with a small radius. If you plan to use it for an existing joint, you need to be sure that its width will be sufficient to install the profile.
How to make podiums
Podiums are made to zone the space of a room, to highlight a certain area intended for some purpose . The arrangement of the podium visually cuts off part of the room, creating a space that is perceived as a separate area. This does not require the construction of partitions or walls.
Podiums have one drawback - the difference in height creates a very good place to trip, which every family member or guest is sure to take advantage of sooner or later.
You should also take into account the high risk of installing a podium in the kitchen, where operations with boiling water, hot dishes, cutting or sharp objects are carried out.
When creating a podiumthreshold between tiles and laminateis not required, since its role is played by the end part, lined with tiles (most often) or trimmed with cut strips of laminate. The high end part can be decorated spotlights, which can visually mark the boundaries of the plots.
How to install materials without a threshold
If the coatings are joined in a straight line, you can try to connect them without additional elements. Think for a long time abouthow to join tiles and laminate flooring without a threshold, there is no need - you need to take the trouble to design the joint so that the gap between the two materials is minimal. Their edges must be well processed and neatly trimmed.
The gap between the coatings is usually filled with some kind of elastic material - liquid cork, sealant, foam. There are other materials, but their use requires creating the ideal gap width. For example, if a thin sheet of paper is placed in the groove between the laminate and the tile wooden slats, it is more correct to carry out installation one by one - tiles, lath, laminate (or in the reverse order).
Prices for polyurethane foam
polyurethane foam
Eliminating the gap
Installation of coatings joint to joint is carried out if the thickness of the laminate and tiles are the same. The difference in thickness is allowed up to 2 mm. Both materials are carefully adjusted to each other to obtain a minimum gap width.
Ideally, it should not exceed the distance between adjacent tiles. Then, to fill the gap, you can use the same grout mixture (or grout) as between the tiles, combining both coatings into a single sheet.
In addition, it can be usedgrout for laminate, sealant or liquid plug.
Which material is more suitable for joining?
It is best to select the type of connection before laying the coverings, so that you can use any of the common joining means. To connect coatings it is common to use:
- straight metal threshold;
- flexible threshold made of metal or plastic;
- cork compensator;
- filling the gap with elastic hardening compounds (foam, liquid plug, sealant);
- use of fugue or grout.
In order to decide whichtile and laminate connectorThe best thing to do in this case is to carefully inspect the gap and immediately exclude from the list of probable materials those that cannot be used for any reason. Most likely, these reasons will be the unevenness of the gap or the inability to install the main part of the profile into it.
From the remaining ones, you can choose the option that will be easiest to work with. In this case, the result will be the most successful.
Important!We must not forget about the need to create a deformation gap, otherwise, during thermal expansion or swelling of the laminate, swelling of the coatings will occur along the joint line.
Installation of flexible profile
The flexible profile consists of two parts: the comb and the upper visible part(actually the threshold).
When installing, you must first install a comb in the gap, which is a perforated strip with a lock for attaching the upper part and cutouts to allow bending in the desired direction (hence the name - comb).
It is attached to the subfloor using self-tapping screws through the mounting holes.
The upper part bends into required configuration, the lock snaps into the mating part of the comb. In order for the material to bend better and the lock not to break, it is recommended to heat the profile construction hairdryer. It is better to do the work together. The procedure is simple, but requires some skill. To begin with, it would be worth practicing in an inconspicuous place.
Installation of flexible metal profile
The metal profile is equipped with special “legs” - support platforms, between which there are cutouts for bending. These paws must be placed under one of the materials - tiles or laminate. This is the difficulty of installation. The opinions of experts on this issue differ - some advise layingconnecting profile for tiles and laminatewith paws under the tile, others recommend first laying the tile, then installing the profile with paws from the tile (under the laminate), and only then laying the laminate, pushing its ends into the groove of the profile. Both options are good in their own way, but have their weaknesses. Before installing coatings, you should carefully consider which option will be most preferable, decide on the procedure and only then begin the work.
How to install an aluminum threshold
There are two types of aluminum thresholds:
- Open installation.
- Hidden installation.
Threshold installation open type is simple - you need to lay it on the joint line, mark the installation locations of the dowels on the subfloor (if it is not possible to screw screws into the floor), drill holes and fix the threshold in place with screws.
Hidden installation is more complicated: it is carried out either at the time of laying one of the coverings, mainly laminate, or after laying both materials in the existing gap.
To resolve the issue,how to close the joint between tiles and laminate, a special aluminum profile with a cable channel can be used, covered with a rubber insert on top, or a solid profile installed close to the edge of the tile with the ends of the laminate inserted into the groove of the profile. The installation procedure depends on the type of material. Basically, the profile is attached to the subfloor using self-tapping screws.
There are thresholds designed to correct the difference in height between two materials. They are convenient if the tiles or laminate differ significantly in thickness.
How to treat seams with sealant and foam
Treating the seam with sealant or foam allows you to qualitatively fill the gap with a liquid hardening substance. The process is simple - the gap between the coatings is carefully filled with material from mounting gun or your own cylinder. A good option for such a solution to the problem it will beliquid stopper for laminate and tile joints, but more on that a little later.
The main danger when applying liquid mixtures- contact of the composition with the surface of the tile or laminate. In order to avoid this, you can cover the edges of the materials with masking tape, and after the composition has hardened, carefully remove it.
Cork expansion joint between tiles and laminate- a collective name for two types of material:
- a solid strip of cork installed in the gap between the coverings;
- liquid composition of cork chips and sealant.
The installation of these materials differs significantly from each other. Installation of the hard strip is carried out after gluing the tiles, directly during laying of the laminate.
The cork strip is pressed against the edge of the tile sheet, and the laminate is laid close to it.
The most successful result will be with a straight line joining, since fitting curved lines, in this case, will be a rather difficult undertaking. The option is quite simple and provides the necessary expansion gap, but the cork strip will require some care and periodic cleaning.
The liquid composition is poured into the gap between the coatings and the required time is allowed to harden.The height of the applied layer should not be higher than the tile or laminate, but if this happens, the line is sanded or carefully trimmed sharp knife after hardening. Ideally, the layer of the composition should be flush with the surface of the coating and not require any additional processing.
Joining tiles and laminate requires the use of a special material, which is best selected in advance. To obtain a high-quality seam, you should study the properties of the material, the method of application, and the installation procedure so that corrections and alterations are not required.
Any suspended ceiling, and the tensioner is no exception; after installation is completed, it needs decorative finishing along the perimeter. There is a gap where the ceiling meets the wall. Different suspended structures have their own preferred options for how to close this gap and give the structure a complete look. A stretch ceiling is a universal system, since it can use both a special plinth and a traditional decorative profile for any ceiling.
Therefore, there are two options for how to design the joint between the ceiling and the wall: use a special plinth (quick installation) or spend time and effort creating an exquisite finish.
Using stubs
A special plinth for installation on a suspended ceiling is practical option. It will hide the gap between the two surfaces, but the frame itself will not stand out. This option is distinguished by its simplicity and laconic finishing. Externally, the ceiling will simply fit snugly against the wall.
Important! If the customer does not receive any wishes regarding the design of the perimeter, then the craftsmen themselves offer to install such a plinth on the suspended ceiling.
If the stretch ceiling is single-level, and it was installed in a room in ordinary apartment, then use either an F-shaped plinth or an L-shaped one. The latter is also called the wall corner.
In large rooms, a dividing profile with a separating plug is also used. This plinth differs from others in that it has a symmetrical profile: two locks and two shelves that cover the panel on both sides of the joint.
The L-shaped plinth has one edge with hooks, which is inserted into the load-bearing profile of the trim. It is made from soft types of plastic, so it is flexible and allows you to make a joint along a curved line.
F-shaped baseboards are rigid and are installed on flat surfaces, mainly tile or drywall. Due to its rigidity, it holds a straight line well, which is important for the overall impression of neat framing.
To install such a plinth, the owner will need a few minutes. Using the fastening rib, the corner is inserted into the profile and pushed through with pressure. To do this, use a blunt spatula.
Except quick installation, such a plinth has a number of other advantages:
- Repeated dismantling without damaging the baseboard itself and finishing materials. If you need to remove the canvas, the plinth is easily removed from the groove and inserted back.
- A soft L-shaped plinth will hide the joint in curved structures.
- Of all the options, this is the cheapest material.
- A laconic design may be the most harmonious solution for an interior in a minimalist style, where curly decorative details are not welcome.
An equally colorful assortment of decorative plugs is produced for a wide range of fabric and film materials. This is done not from an excess of imagination, but because it is advisable to select a plug of the same color for any canvas. The fact is that over a long span the decorative tape gives a wave, no matter how hard the master tries to even it out. A plinth of the same tone will only mark the smooth edge of the ceiling, and the wave will not be noticeable.
It is important to choose the right baseboard for the installed load-bearing molding. There are plugs that are used only for baguettes of the harpoon system; in others, the fastening ribs are designed for the baguette of the wedge installation technology. There is a difference between plugs for aluminum and plastic baguettes. Therefore, returning to the previous recommendation, rely on a master installer. If you have to buy masking tape yourself, then take a piece of the supporting profile with you so that you can select a suitable baseboard in the store.
Video of how the decorative plug is fixed:
The quality of wall finishing plays an important role when choosing a baguette for a suspended ceiling. If they are uneven, then it is better to abandon the standard masking tape and use wide baseboard made of polyurethane or foam.
Decorative baguettes
Decorative plinth is chosen by those owners for whom the stretched canvas does not yet mean the end of the decoration work ceiling space. In this case, the plinth not only hides the joint, but also performs an important decorative function. Although it can be installed flush against the ceiling, more often it is mounted at a lower level. A stretch ceiling looks much more impressive with lighting, and lamps are installed in this niche.
Of all the variety of forms, a smooth extruded type plinth will be a win-win. The smooth baguette harmoniously combines with the glossy surface of the film in any setting. Imitation skirting board decorative stucco molding requires a balanced approach, taking into account the style of the rest of the interior.
Any baguettes made of polyurethane or polystyrene are used under the tension fabric, but with some installation features. Since the plinth cannot be glued to film or fabric, it is only attached to one side to a vertical surface. Hence some nuances regarding the selection and installation of decorative moldings:
- If the perimeter of the room is even, then it is better to use a lightweight foam baseboard. It is glued to acrylic liquid nails or regular finishing putty.
- For structures with curved lines, polyurethane is used because it bends well. But this material is heavy, so Special attention pay attention to preparing the base surface and the right choice glue for installation.
- To ensure that the baguette is held firmly, choose a profile with a vertically elongated cross-section and a wide mounting flange.
- The wallpaper is glued after installing the baguette, carefully trimming it using a wide spatula.
- When installed close to the film, a small gap is still left so that the film does not clap against the baseboard during vibration.
The disadvantages associated with the complexity of installation are obvious:
- Even in rectangular room with an even perimeter, you will need to trim the baguette in four corners, and not everyone can do this neatly. Even experienced craftsmen use a miter box for this.
- You will have to deal with putty or acrylic adhesives. To make the plinth monolithic, the joints in the corners and cracks are sealed.
- The plinth is painted several times. If the first layer is not difficult to complete, then when finishing painting the glued baguette you need to try not to stain the canvas.
Important! You won't be able to remove the baseboard without damaging it. If it is necessary to dismantle the canvas, the baguette is torn off and after installing the film in place, a new one is purchased.
If desired, you can install gypsum stucco. In this case we're talking about about creating an entire cornice-type composition using elements of pilasters, curly moldings, and columns. Such decorations decorate complex multi-level structures with combined finishes.
Wooden skirting boards are installed only in rooms decorated with wood, where other materials are inappropriate.
Decorative braid
Recently appeared new way designing the outline of the ceiling using a decorative cord. This element will not only hide the joint between the vertical and horizontal planes, clearly separate the canvas and the vertical surface, but will also become a bright detail that requires a special style throughout the rest of the interior.
The texture of the braid can be woven or twisted. It is installed in the same way as a plastic plinth: pressed into the groove of the profile. But at the same time, you need to control the straightness of the edging, so on straight sections they use a long rule, and on curved sections they rely on eye and patience.
There are the following types of decorative cord for installation in a suspended ceiling:
- Cord with woven core. For elasticity, rubber veins are woven into the threads. Due to this, when pressed unevenly, the cord tends to straighten, thereby helping the craftsman obtain a straight edge.
- With metal amplifier. Allows you to obtain a smooth bend on bent lines.
- A cord with a single-color braid or with multi-colored threads.
As a rule, the interior always contains garlands and picturesque ornaments inherent in the classic, empire, and baroque styles.
As a rule, the floors in an apartment in different rooms are finished with different qualities and physical properties materials. The most common choices are porcelain stoneware and laminate. In this case, of course, floor transition areas inevitably appear - the joints of tiles and laminate.
You can join the tiles to the laminate using one of the following: following methods:
Flexible profile made of aluminum or PVC;
H-shaped profile made of aluminum or brass;
Flat aluminum sill.
Docking with a flexible profile
Before installing the joint between the tiles and the laminate with a flexible profile, it is necessary to evaluate the degree of load specifically on this section of the floor. For example, if the transition is located in the area between the hallway and the adjacent room, then the load on the threshold will be high. Therefore, it is optimal to mount a flexible aluminum profile in this area. In this case, it is better to design the transitions between the bathroom and the corridor with a flexible PVC profile. In this area constantly high humidity and the transition from aluminum may begin to oxidize and deteriorate prematurely.
The flexible connecting profile consists of two parts: a fixed base in the shape of the letter “P” and an upper decorative cover in the shape of the letter “T”. Installation of the transition using this method must be planned in advance. That is, when tiling and laying laminate, a seam of at least 20 mm is left between the materials, since the standard width of the U-shaped base is 14 mm. The remaining 3 mm along the edge of each vertical shelf of the base serves as a damping gap.
Initially, an accurate measurement of the future floor connection is made. If the transition between different materials has not an even, but, for example, a curved trajectory, then its measurement is carried out using a regular thread. The thread is laid out along a curved path, after which the thread is pulled and its length is measured with a tape measure. Next, a piece of the required size is cut from the flexible profile using a small grinder. Installation of the connection begins by gluing the back side of the U-shaped profile with self-adhesive damper tape.
After pasting, holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm are drilled in the U-shaped base in increments of 10-15 cm. Next, the base is laid exactly at the place where it is attached and marks are made on the surface of the screed using a pencil through the holes. Subsequently, according to the markings made, they are drilled into the concrete screed to a depth of 5-8 cm using impact drill with a Pobedit drill in a chuck. Next, the U-shaped base is mounted to the screed using anchor expansion dowels. After this, a T-shaped decorative profile is inserted manually with slight pressure into the U-shaped base from above.
Advantage this method: The transition may wear out over time, but no repairs will be required to repair it. installation work. It is enough to manually remove the worn decorative plug and install a new cover in its place at the base.
Disadvantage of this method: if a heated floor made from electric thermomats is installed in the transition area, then you cannot drill into the screed.
Docking with an H-shaped aluminum profile
This type of transition is characterized by the fact that at the end of the work there will be a joint between tiles and laminate without a threshold, or the threshold will be completely insignificant, only 1.5-2 mm high. The H-shaped profile is installed at the stage of laying porcelain stoneware on the floor. Having laid the last row of porcelain stoneware on the glue and leveled it, the lower shelf of the H-shaped profile is placed in the layer of glue. At the same time, his top shelf 10 mm onto the surface of the floor tiles.
If the moment was missed when tiling the floor, then in order to mount the H-shaped connecting junction, it is necessary to clean out the glue under the edge of the tile with a knife to a depth of 25-30 mm. Next, all dust is removed from the resulting seam with a vacuum cleaner and applied to the surface of the seam. construction gun uniform layer liquid nails. Next, an aluminum transition is cut to size and inserted under the tile directly through a layer of liquid nails.
The opposite bottom shelf is attached to the screed either using liquid nails or expansion screws. When the liquid nails have dried well, lay the laminate so that it extends between the horizontal flanges of the profile at a distance of at least 10 mm.
The advantage of this method: it is possible to make a joint between laminate and tiles with virtually no threshold.
Disadvantage of this method: for reliability of installation, it is still better to install the H-shaped transition simultaneously with laying the last row of tiles.
Joint of tiles and laminate with aluminum threshold
It must be said right away that we are talking about a flat or slightly curved threshold made of aluminum with hidden fastening. This should not be confused with an open-mounted threshold, which is mainly installed outside the apartment on open surfaces or tiled steps.
By design, the aluminum threshold with hidden fastening is a flat or slightly curved profile, on the lower side of which small shelves are located at an angle to each other. To cover the joint between the laminate and the tiles with such a decorative threshold, you must initially cut it strictly to the measured size. Next, you need to select anchor screws in such a way that when placing the screw in the groove, its head is held between the lower shelves.
If such screws are not available, then they are made independently. To do this, take long self-tapping screws, shorten their length and grind the head in a circle so that the self-tapping screw can be run between the shelves.
At the next stage, holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled in the screed at the place where the threshold is installed. The pitch between the holes should be no more than 15-20 cm. drilled holes empty spacers get clogged PVC tubes from anchors. Next, the threshold is launched into the lower groove required amount self-tapping screws Each self-tapping screw is lightly inserted by hand into a PVC spacer tube. At this stage, the threshold and embedded screws should be positioned perfectly evenly without distortion.
Dry material is placed on top of the decorative threshold in several layers. doormat, after which it is placed on a rag wooden block. Next, with careful and even blows of the hammer on the block, the entire sill is settled, while the self-tapping screws enter the spacer tubes and ensure proper installation. To make it easier to imagine this procedure, look at the photo instructions for sealing the joint between laminate and laminate - everything is identical.
The advantages of this method: sometimes they remember about the threshold very late and, for example, the gap between the tiles and the laminate is completely absent or amounts to a couple of mm, in this case a curved threshold is used.
Disadvantages of this method: only coatings laid on the same level can be joined in this way, since making a joint that will cover the tiles and laminate on different levels technically impossible.
Every home craftsman who has started tiling for the first time knows how to join tiles in corners. And only with experience comes the understanding that in construction there are no perfectly right angles, and therefore laying tiles is not at all as simple as it might seem at first glance. Over the years comes true mastery, and it turns out that there are not one, not two, but many more ways to design both the outer and inner corners. And each of them has the right to exist, and can be the only true one in a certain situation.
First thing's first - layout!
And the cladding of any room begins with the layout, since in typical apartments there are not only ideal right angles, but also no ideal smooth walls. The tiler carefully measures the room, assesses the condition of the walls and floors, and inspects the corners to choose a design method for each. It depends on which method of joining tiles in the outer and inner corners is chosen:
- choosing a tool to perform the work;
- the amount of tiles purchased in excess of the norm, in reserve;
- actually, the layout itself.
Basic layout rules
The layout begins with the surface that will be most noticeable. For example, for a bathroom - this is the wall located opposite front door. It is laid out first, and only then the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start tiling from the corner is great, but if you succumb to it, it is almost guaranteed that cracks will appear in the corners and under the ceiling, sometimes several centimeters wide, which will have to be laid out with tiny scraps. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the customer will have an extremely negative impression of the master’s work. Therefore, when making a layout, you need to adhere to certain rules:
How to join tiles in inner corners
There are very few options for decorating an internal corner. You can do this in the following ways:
- using an overhead corner (trim)
- design of a regular seam without additional details.
Making a corner using a plastic profile
This option is used in internal vertical corners, as a rule, by novice masters. With experience comes the understanding that a plastic part, which rarely matches perfectly in color, rather reduces the cost than decorates the interior. An exception to the rule is the use of trim at the junction of floor and wall coverings. Here, a corner is almost always appropriate and desirable. Do not like plastic corners in the bathroom and the housewife - because they quickly become dirty, but tiles are much more difficult to maintain.
Easy pairing of 2 rows of tiles
Joining the tiles yourself in the inner corner has clear advantages. Firstly, a corner designed in this way looks more organic, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional parts, which will further increase the cost of repairs.
Of course, the simple pairing method also has disadvantages. This is the professionalism of a master like necessary condition and a high probability of cracking along the seam due to the natural tendency of the tiles to both contract and expand. This problem especially often occurs when facing plasterboard structures, but on brick walls that's great rarity.
To prevent the formation of cracks, use:
- correct calculation of seam width;
- use of sanitary silicone in vertical internal corners.
Important! Decor internal corner without using an overhead corner and without finishing the seam is unacceptable! The result of this installation will be a black gap at the junction. To correct appearance It will be possible only with silicone. But it’s unlikely to be able to match it exactly to the grout.
How to join tiles in outer corners
There are many more ways to design an external corner. This:
- use of trims and ;
- technology for cutting tile ends at an angle of 45°;
- easy installation one row of tiles on the edge of another;
- forming a corner using grout.
Method 1. Using a trim corner to lay out external corners
Today stores offer a wide range corner profiles for laying tiles. They are made from plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be the most different colors and sizes. The size of the corner must be selected based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.
Interestingly, in most European countries, trims are used everywhere, due to the ease of the method of decorating corners. In Russia, the mass fashion for corners is slowly but surely declining for a number of reasons:
- the desire to be different from everyone else;
- the small size of most apartments, in which unnecessary details in the cladding split the room, visually making it even smaller;
- the fragility of plastic trims and their high tendency to become dirty;
- high cost of metal corners;
- the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of cladding external corners.
Installation of trim corner
Installation of a decorative corner is carried out after one wall in the room has been completely lined. Then, along the entire height of the corner, using a mounting gun, apply silicone sealant. The flat side of the trim is applied to the already laid tile, while the groove of the part remains free to lie on the adjacent wall. Subsequently, the tiles are laid along this wall from bottom to top, and the master inserts the edge of the facing material into the groove of the corner. A day after finishing the work, the seams between the tiles and the trim are rubbed down. Installation is performed in the same way decorative element and in horizontal corners.
Method 2. Cutting the edge of the tile at an angle of 45°
If the question “How to connect tiles in the outer corners?” the master replies: “Of course, at an angle of 45°!” - in front of you real professional. Simply because this method is too difficult for beginners, because it requires experience, firmness of movement and a lot of time. In addition, it is impossible to do without good tool, namely angular grinder. It works using a diamond disc. If you need to cut double-fired tiles, it is better to use a tile cutter with a rotating frame.
The disadvantage of this design is the fragility of the resulting angle. You just have to hit the edge of the masonry well, and with a high probability the tile will break off. However, fans of the method are ready to put up with this, because no other method of designing a corner gives such a harmonious result: the beveled edges fit perfectly together and form a perfectly right angle with a thin, barely noticeable gap.
Method 3: Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another
This technique is good for beginners, because there is nothing complicated about it. First, one wall is completely covered with facing material, then another, the outer tiles of which simply overlap the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this installation method is chosen for laying tiles with relief, because in most cases it is chosen, succumbing to the opinion that seams, joints and unevenness of the walls will not be so noticeable on the textured surface. This is true, just like the fact that the relief one is very difficult to join beautifully in the corners.
Another variation of the laying method is staggered: in the first row, tiles of one wall are placed on top, in the second - another, and so on. Very often this method is used when tiling rooms. The result is a deliberately careless masonry, most appropriate in country or loft style interiors.
Method 4: Forming a corner using grout
Its essence: laying tiles without trimming and without protrusion on the outer corner. The resulting gap is shaped into a semicircle using grout or other adhesives. It must be admitted that this technique is still unpopular, both among craftsmen and customers. Although it solves a common problem: eliminating the fragility of the outer corner and preventing seam cracking, which is especially common on plasterboard walls. Therefore, any master tiler should know how to close the joints in the corners with grout.
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How to join tiles in corners
How to seal or close a joint
Regardless of what type of ceiling is installed in the apartment - suspended, plasterboard, covered with tiles or wallpaper, or simply painted, to make it look complete, it is necessary to complete the final touch - to decorate the joint.
The gap where the ceiling meets the wall looks untidy, and the structure itself looks unfinished. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a way to decorate this area so that it does not stand out from the overall composition.
Methods for designing a joint
Having perfectly smooth surfaces of the walls and ceiling, additional design of the joint may not be required unless the style of the room requires it, when molding is simply necessary to maintain a special atmosphere. If not, then the joint looks natural and smooth, forming a clear right angle without gaps.
Sometimes, with a perfectly even joining seam, in order to create an optical illusion and “raise” the ceiling, top part the walls are painted.
If there are even small gaps, the use of special masking devices will be required at the joint. The instructions for use usually consist of simple manipulations and do not require special skills and tools, so this work can be easily done with your own hands.
Masking tape for stretch ceilings
The joint between the wall and the ceiling made of tension fabric is masked using a PVC plug in the form of a special profile or insert (read more). The junction of several levels and the junction of the structure with the wall acquire a finished, neat appearance.
To do this, you will need to place a plug in the baguette slot, where, during the installation of the canvas, the and, or profile is inserted. When flooded from above, such an insert can be easily removed, the canvas is dismantled and the water is drained, and then the product is installed in place.
There are several types of plugs for suspended ceilings:
- To accurately connect the tension fabric and slightly curved walls, an L-shaped wall elastic profile is installed in their direction;
- To design the junction of the tension fabric with a tiled or porcelain stoneware wall, T-type plugs are used. In this case, the color of the product can be chosen to match the ceiling or in contrast;
- If it is necessary to combine fabrics of different colors and textures, use a profile that differs from the shape of the baguette. In this case, the plug masking such a profile is secured in a different way than described earlier.
A wide decorative border is used to contrast colors, creating a clear, noticeable boundary between the ceiling and walls.
Black or white inserts are usually used. White canvas is the most common due to the fact that its price is lower and its universal White color allows you to visually increase the height of the room.
Using a white edging, the gap between the light-colored canvas and the same wall is masked. And with the help of black, the border between two planes will be emphasized. You can choose a colored plug to match the ceiling or wall.
Thanks to the fact that PVC manufacturing tapes are placed in reels of 100 meters or more; products of the required length can be purchased in the store.
Fabric cord
Using a thick twisted fabric cord is an alternative solution when the question arises of how to create a gap between tension fabric and a wall. The product is pressed into the baguette slot.
With this decorative element you can emphasize the transition between the ceiling and the wall, drawing attention to the structure thanks to the expressive appearance of the cord. It looks especially impressive in combination with satin and fabric fabrics.
Important! It is necessary to ensure tight contact of the cord with the wall and the edge of the stretch ceiling. If necessary, it can be “seated” on the sealant, but this will create difficulties if you need to temporarily remove the product.
One of the advantages of edging cord is its flexibility, which allows you to design curved elements suspended structure. A wide selection of colors and textures allows you to choose a design for any interior. Such a cord will look especially organic against the background of fabric wallpaper.
Fabric cords can be plain or multi-colored, consisting of several shades with embossed braiding. They may have metal threads or rubber veins as decorative inserts.
You can choose products with a pattern of the desired theme. For a rich classic interior, you can use lurex cords - imitation of silver or gold threads.
Ceiling molding
You can give a finished look to the ceiling - suspended, made of plasterboard or simple, painted white - with the help of moldings, which have long become familiar. They can have different widths, materials, colors and textures.
Wide range of products offered by manufacturers ceiling decor products, allows you to select elements for decoration in any interior.
The term “molding” refers to various elements of stucco molding for decorating the ceiling and walls. For the overlay profile that decorates the joint, the name “ceiling molding”, “plinth” or “border” is used.
Material of manufacture similar products May be:
- Wood;
- Polyurethane;
- Polystyrene;
- Natural gypsum.
Wood moldings
With help you can give the room respectability. This finish is appropriate in classic interiors, as well as where wooden suspended or false ceilings are installed.
The price of such products depends on the type of wood that was used to make them. For medium skirting boards price segment spruce, poplar or alder are used. Expensive items include products made from oak, yew or mahogany.
The advantages of wooden skirting boards include the following:
- Thanks to its natural origin, natural beauty and ideal environmental performance wooden skirting boards can be used in residential areas;
- Natural wood can be treated with stain, varnish, enriching its natural pattern and shade, or painted in any color with paint;
- If you paint the molding the same color as the walls, the ceiling will become visually higher and the room will acquire additional volume;
- You can make the room more compact by painting the baseboard the same color as the ceiling.
Important! It takes special skills to install wood molding correctly.
Foam molding
Foam molding is the most budget option design of the joint between the wall and the ceiling. These products are easy to use, they weigh little and are easy to cut with ordinary scissors. But you should be careful not to accidentally damage the foam border, as it is quite fragile.
The disadvantage of this material, like the wood discussed above, is flammability.
Polystyrene molding
Manufactured by extrusion. Such products are distinguished by a clear relief and have a smooth matte surface. Such products are harder and more durable than their foam counterparts.
One of positive qualities This material is affordable.
The advantages of this material are that it does not contribute to the maintenance and spread of fire. Polystyrene is also easy to work with, it is easy to cut, but it is more resistant to mechanical stress.
Polyurethane molding
Polyurethane plinth is practical to use, it can be painted, and due to the presence of rubber in its composition, this material can bend without losing its integrity, which allows it to be used to design semicircular structures.
Such borders can have a smooth, even surface or patterned, with a clear pattern and maximum detailing of small elements.
Among the positive qualities of the material, the following can be noted:
- Environmental friendliness;
- The products do not have a specific odor;
- The material is non-flammable;
- The products are light in weight;
- The material is easy to install;
- Have a pre-primed white surface, which can be painted any color if desired. In this case, the paint is distributed evenly.
Plaster molding
Gypsum moldings, which are also used to decorate the ceiling where it meets the wall, can be considered an exclusive type of finishing.
Not only because all parts are made by hand and have a high cost, but also due to some unique properties gypsum:
- Being natural material, gypsum and products made from it are 100% environmentally friendly. They do not release toxins and do not cause allergies;
- Gypsum is an absolutely fireproof material;
- Plaster does not conduct electricity;
- Not afraid of temperature changes;
- Gypsum is a hygroscopic material. From the air he takes excess moisture, and if there is a lack of it, it gives;
- Each product is unique as it is created by hand. This allows us to produce moldings with the necessary, sometimes non-standard shape and width;
- A drawing and relief created with one’s own hand can have precise rendering of voluminous small details;
- With the help of gypsum cornices, you can successfully disguise not only the joint between the wall and the ceiling, but also advantageously design various kinds of technical holes, pipes, and electrical wiring;
- The finish is monolithic and seamless.
Gypsum stucco molding can be painted, patinated, acquiring an aged appearance, and it can be coated with gold.
The video in this article will tell you how to design the joint between the ceiling and the wall.