Heating devices that provide a comfortable thermal environment in the house are a dire necessity. The explanation for this lies on the surface, in most regions of our country winter period lasts about 9 months and that is why stoves, fireplaces, etc. are installed in many houses. But it must be remembered that such devices represent a source of increased danger and there are often cases when a fire occurs due to improper chimney design. A correctly executed chimney passage through the roof will ensure maximum safety of the building.

Passage through the roof. View from the attic

What are the dangers of improper chimney installation?

Before installing a chimney through the roof, the homeowner must understand what consequences can be expected in the event of errors made at the design stage or direct installation.

If the pipe on the roof does not provide the necessary tightness, then the moisture that will accumulate there will sooner or later lead to the destruction of the brick chimney body. Availability excess moisture in the chimney creates favorable conditions for the growth of mold and other harmful microorganisms. Water getting into the chimney leads to a decrease in the parameters of the insulation and after drying, this material will never be restored. In addition, as a result of mistakes made during the installation of the chimney, the rafters may also suffer. Since moisture that gets into the chimney can lead to the development of areas of rotting on their surface. One of the most common mistakes when arranging a chimney outlet is the presence of cracks that lead to disruption of the air movement inside the roof.

Only a small list of troubles that can await a homeowner who decides to independently install a chimney through the roof is indicated. Therefore, it makes sense to invite specialists to carry out such work who can both choose the right location and decide which method of exiting the chimney through the roof will be optimal.

How to choose a location for the pipe outlet

In order to perform the correct passage through the roof, it is necessary to observe a number of simple conditions, defined by the rules. The chimney pipe should be placed at a distance of 1 to 1.5 m from the top of the roof. The height of the pipe relative to the highest point should be in the range from 0.5 to 1.5 m. The draft will reach its maximum if the maximum permissible pipe height is used. In general, when determining the diameter and height of the pipe, you must be guided by the requirements determined by the manufacturer of the heating device.

The chimney on the roof is a set of pipes located in vertical and horizontal planes and passed through the ceiling. At the same time, the length of horizontal sections should not exceed 1 meter. The pipe outlet must be placed between the components rafter system in such a way as to reduce the likelihood of a significant increase in the temperature of surrounding elements. Otherwise, the preconditions will be created for the emergence of a fire.

Penetration for a chimney pipe - when is its installation required?

Passage through the roof is performed in the following cases:

• construction of a new building;
• carrying out major roof repairs;
• arrangement of heating devices, including stoves, in an existing building.

When constructing a new building, there are no difficulties with installing a chimney. All necessary decisions are laid down at the design stage. Questions about how to install a chimney through the roof begin to appear when the homeowner decides to install an additional heat source (fireplace, boiler, etc.). He must resolve many issues related to the arrangement of hydraulic insulation and carrying out activities related to ensuring fire safety designs. Of course, he must know how to properly bring the pipe to the roof.

By the way, as an option, some country property owners build chimneys running along the walls of buildings with their own hands. This solution is acceptable if the installed heating equipment runs on liquid fuel. Residents will be deprived of the opportunity to inhale fumes emanating from fuel and its combustion products.

Consequences of passing through the roof

The passage of the chimney through the roof must ensure fire safety. The gases generated during fuel combustion create a high temperature in the chimney, which can cause fire in the roofing elements. This is especially true for systems constructed from materials with low fire resistance. So, if the supporting roof system is made of wood, then additional sheathing must be installed in the place where the pipe passes.

Taking into account that many roofing materials contain polymers that are not highly resistant to fire, the pipe must be protected by thermal insulation and the distance between it and the edge of the material that can catch fire must be at least 13 centimeters. If the pipe is not equipped with thermal insulation, then this distance should be increased to 30 cm.

The passage of a pipe through the roof violates the integrity of the coating, including layers of thermal and hydraulic insulation. If you do not ensure high-quality cutting of the roof around it, then, most likely, the insulation will get wet, with all the ensuing consequences.

In addition to reducing the parameters of hydraulic and thermal insulation, there is a decrease in strength truss structure. This can happen if the installation of a chimney is done with your own hands in a building that is in use.

Options for passing a brick chimney through the roof

There are several ways to route a pipe through the roof. If the pipe is made of brick, then a hole must be made in the roof, the size of which should be larger size chimney cross-section by 25 centimeters. If the roofing material is not flammable, then this size can be reduced. The main thing is the correct passage of the chimney through the roof.

The passage through the tiled roof is additionally equipped with an additional structure consisting of rafters and sheathing. Between the chimney and wooden structures it is necessary to lay non-combustible material; as a rule, mineral wool is used for this. In addition, the wood used to construct the roof must be treated with compounds that prevent fire and rotting.

IMPORTANT! If, when installing a chimney outlet, it rests on a ridge beam, then it must be cut and the free ends installed on vertical posts.

It is necessary to make a metal apron on the roof, one edge of which should be placed on the chimney itself. And the other end should be hidden under the roofing material. This design is acceptable for chimneys located away from the ridge. If the pipe is located in close proximity to the ridge beam, then a protective apron must be placed under it. At the same time, it must be secured with fasteners and treated with a moisture-resistant sealing compound.

Wiring using elastic materials

As usual, when constructing private houses, one has to deal with the installation of pipes made of metal. To ensure the tightness of the passage of the pipe through the roof, a device called elastic penetration is used. To manufacture this device, use polymer materials, for example, silicone or rubber. This part is made in the form of a funnel, at the base of which a square or round shape. The physical and technical properties of this part allow it to take the shape that the slope forces it to take. In addition, the elastic penetration is resistant to high temperatures, chemically aggressive substances, etc. The use of various pigments in the manufacture of this part allows them to be produced in different colors.

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof is an important part of the installation.

When choosing an elastic penetration, the consumer should be guided by the diameter of the pipe and the color of the roof. Such parts have the shape of a funnel or pyramid. They are suitable for most chimney diameters through metal tiles and other materials.

Installation of this part is quite simple. To do this, it is necessary to cut a hole in its body equal in size to the diameter of the pipe. Then you need to put it on the pipe and, using a metal ring with holes for fasteners, fix it to the roof surface. Of course, the outlet connection must be treated with a flame-resistant sealant or a roofing chimney sealant must be used. For roofs with a steep slope, specially made elastic cones are used. By the way, such parts are used when arranging a chimney through corrugated sheeting.

Metal pipe

On the construction market you can find another version of these products, made from a metal sheet of alloy steel and intended for the outlet of a chimney pipe. Finished products, as a rule, are made with a standard slope angle. They are used for roofs on which flat roofing material is laid. To install this part, you need to cut a hole of the required shape in the roof surface. To make a hole, you can use a corner grinder or roofing scissors. After this, it is necessary to remove layers of hydro- and thermal insulation from it. On the back side of the roof it is necessary to fix a sheet of fire-resistant material in which a hole has already been made in advance.

Then, the chimney component must be inserted into the holes made and docked with the already installed chimney module. A clamp must be put on and tightened at the connection point. The outlet pipe must be installed on the chimney pipe and fixed to the surface of the slope. In this case, we must not forget to treat the joint with a fire-resistant sealant. After the last outlet segments are installed on the assembled connection, and their height will be 0.5 - 1.5 meters, the work on creating the passage can be considered completed.

Rectangular pipe outlet

Stoves, fireplaces and some other heating systems most often have rectangular (square) shaped chimneys. To properly remove the chimney, you must perform the following operations.

As the chimney is brought to the roof, a hole is cut out in it, the dimensions of which should have an allowance of 2 - 5 cm on the side of the hole. Through it, a conclusion will be made to the roof. The equipped passage must be lined with asbestos or mineral wool. For this you can use asbestos sheets. They will protect the passage unit, for example, through an ondulin roof, from fire under the influence of high temperatures emanating from the chimney. After the pipe is brought outside. It is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing around its base and cover it with an apron made of bent aluminum sheet. These sheets are called additional elements, and their color must match the color of the roofing material.

Output box

Finishing the pipe on the roof can be done using a special box. The roof is made of several types of material that have varying resistance to flame. And therefore for safe withdrawal via wooden wall a special box will be installed on the roof. It is made of fire-resistant material with dimensions that must correspond to the size of the chimney. The distance between the walls of the box and the exhaust pipe of the chimney must be at least 15 cm.

After installing the box in its place, its upper edge is compared with the level of the roof slope. To increase its protective properties, expanded clay or similar material is poured into the space between the chimney and the duct.

The passage of a pipe through the roof is the most complex structural element with several problems associated with its construction. In this article we will talk about performing work on the correct installation of the passage, as well as how to pass a pipe through the roof while maintaining all the protective properties of the roof pie.

The passage of the pipe through the roof is the subject of controversy among various experts. Thus, professionals in the field of installation of fireplaces and boiler rooms believe that the pipe passage through the roof should be located at the ridge. This allows you to protect the main part of the pipe from the effects of cold, which reduces the likelihood of condensation inside the pipe. Roofers, in turn, say that the passage unit must be equipped directly through the ridge, as this simplifies the work associated with installing the passage element. This method, among other things, eliminates the formation of snow drifts above the chimney. But everything is further complicated by the fact that the pipe outlet through the roof can also be organized on slopes at a certain distance from the ridge.

In order to protect the internal surfaces of the chimney from moisture, its outlet is covered with a special umbrella. But if the chimney is connected to boiler equipment, then it is better not to install such a protective element, since due to the low temperature of combustion products, they can accumulate under, which will create additional pressure in the pipe itself and ultimately reduce draft.

The most problem area This node is the passage of the pipe through the roof, since in this place it is necessary to take special measures to protect the roof and insulate it from high temperatures. In order to protect the roof “pie” from the chimney, use a separate box. In this case, it is very important to adhere to the requirements of SNiP regarding the location of beams and rafters, and the internal space of the box must be filled non-flammable material. Such material as stone wool has proven itself well for these purposes.

The passage element may have different shape depending on the cross-section of the chimney itself and the roofing material used:

• oval;
• round;
• square;
• rectangular.

Exiting the pipe through the roof

When equipping a pipe passage through the roof, care must be taken to ensure that two conditions are met:

• passages through the roofing pie must be fireproof;
• the under-roof space should be protected as much as possible from moisture penetration.

Exiting the chimney through the ridge makes all the work quite simple. Due to the fact that the formation of snow pockets on the ridge is impossible, it is possible to achieve better protection against leaks. But at the same time, this installation method implies that in the design of the rafter system the ridge beam will not have load-bearing functions. And this requires additional strengthening of the rafters themselves. If there is an attic, installing additional rafter supports may be undesirable or simply impossible.

That is why developers prefer installing a chimney passage on the slope, directly at the ridge. A snow pocket also does not form in this place, and besides, the rafter system does not need additional strengthening. But besides this, the choice of location for the roof chimney is also influenced by the location of the heating equipment. It should be remembered that the horizontal sections of the chimney should not be more than 1 meter in length. In some cases, it is the location of the boiler that becomes the reason for choosing the method of passing the chimney pipe through the ridge.

Professionals recommend avoiding installing a passage element in the valley (the point where two slopes meet an internal corner), since it is especially difficult to install at this point. As a result of rain and snowfall, the junction may not be able to cope with moisture and, as a result, the roof will leak.

It is important to maintain a distance between the rafters and the roof in the range of 25-30 cm. If the roof is made of flammable materials ( different kinds roofing felt, soft roofing), then a gap of 13-25 cm must be maintained between the material and the chimney wall. If the material is resistant to high temperatures, then this gap can be left minimal, and removed only from the sheathing.

If the roof is a “pie” consisting of hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation, then when installing the passage element, some difficulties may arise due to the violation of the integrity of this layer. As a result of an error, the protective properties of the roof can be significantly reduced. In this case, the chimney can be installed in a separate box, which will isolate the roofing materials from the hot walls. The distance between the inner wall of the box and the chimney should be about 15 cm, while free space filled with non-flammable heat-insulating material. It is recommended to use mineral or basalt wool, as it is resistant to moisture.

The waterproofing and vapor barrier is applied to the box using the standard method: the “pie” is cut in the shape of an envelope. The film web is brought out to the rafters and cross beams, where they are fixed with nails or staples. Then the waterproofing layer is pressed on top with bars, and the vapor barrier is pressed with the base frame under Decoration Materials attic or attic. After this, the joints of the films and the box are treated with sealant and glued with a special tape.

How to bring a pipe through the roof

To organize a hermetically sealed connection between the roof and the chimney, an internal apron is created at this point. To create it, use the lower abutment strips. The strips are applied to the walls of the chimney, where they mark it top part. A groove is made along this line using a grinder. Then the dust is carefully removed from the formed border. This is done so that small particles of sand and cement do not fall on the surface of the waterproofing or roof. In some cases, fine grains of sand will turn into an abrasive over time, which can seriously damage the roofing material.

The lower apron begins to be installed from the bottom wall, while only one part of the apron is inserted into the groove. Similarly, this element is attached around the entire perimeter of the chimney. Individual elements must be overlapped with an overlap of 15 cm. The joints are sealed.

For chimneys with a round cross-section, you can purchase special passage elements in hardware stores, consisting of steel sheet and an apron cap. Their use allows you to significantly speed up the work on equipping the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof. The purchased or manufactured apron should be securely fixed to the roof. At the same time, it is not firmly fixed to the chimney, since expansion of the material or shrinkage of the rafter system can cause damage to the chimney by the apron (be sure to read: " ").

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof, detailed video instructions:

At the junction of the pipe and the apron, a skirt is installed - a steel clamp, which is secured using a heat-resistant gasket. This approach can significantly improve roof waterproofing in this place. Upon completion of the installation of the apron, it is necessary to apply sealant to all junctions between the element and the chimney. This helps to obtain a reliable connection that does not leak.

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How to independently arrange the passage of a pipe through the roof in a private house or bathhouse

During the construction of any house, there always comes a time when it is necessary to remove the stove or ventilation pipes through the roof; there is no way around it. Some owners don't give of great importance this process, however, mistakes made during the arrangement of the docking station can lead to serious negative consequences. In this material I will tell you how to independently remove pipes through the attic floor and different types roofs

What can result from poor-quality installation?

In most cases, stove makers and specialists ventilation equipment are engaged exclusively in the installation of their sector. Pipe passages through the wall, interfloor covering and they do not touch the roof. People don’t want to hire a professional and take on the job themselves. As a result, after a short period of time a whole bunch of problems may “pop up”.

When you hire a specialist, it is better to immediately discuss the moment of arranging transitions through structures.
Sometimes it’s easier to pay a little more to an experienced person than to then rack your brains over how to do it all correctly and beautifully with your own hands.

• The materials from which chimneys are made are quite durable; they can easily withstand temperature changes, but these materials are often not designed for constant contact with moisture. For example, an asbestos-cement pipe, saturated with moisture, will simply begin to crumble and after a couple of seasons it will look as if mice had eaten it;
• Again due to high humidity, this sector will be intensively overgrown with soot from the inside therefore, you will have to clean the chimney much more often;
• But that's not the worst part. In most cases, the roof is now insulated with basalt or glass wool. Once such insulation gets wet, firstly, it becomes useless, and secondly, it shrinks and is no longer restored. There is no point in drying cotton wool, you just need to change it;
• Do not forget that almost all roofs are made on the basis wooden frame . Whatever you impregnate the wood with, but if the structures are constantly in humid environment, then sooner or later they will begin to rot. Water wears away stones, let alone wood;

• There is one more point, I will explain it with an example. One of my friends finished building a house in the fall and, since the weather had already begun to noticeably deteriorate, he sealed the passage through the roof of the chimney at random, in the hope that everything would be fixed in the spring.

Imagine what his surprise was when, on New Year's holidays, the chimney passage through the ceiling, which was decorated in a pompous and very expensive Baroque style, became covered with red wet spots and the stucco began to fall off. And all this happened because the roof joint was not airtight enough.

After the stove was flooded, the snow around the pipe melted, water flowed through the pipe and completely ruined luxurious interior, the cost of which was tens of times higher than the services of the most expensive roofer.

Where is the best place to install pipes?

Of course, when the house was built a long time ago and you are just repairing the roof, it is no longer possible to change anything. But at the design stage you have a choice optimal location for pipe outlet.

Any stove maker will tell you that the passage unit is best mounted in a ridge. But this is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, snow or rain will never leak under the pipe, plus the chimney located above the ridge provides optimal draft. On the other hand, you will have to tinker a lot with arranging the rafter system, because breaking a horizontal ridge beam is quite a complicated matter.

The minimum distance from the chimney to the rafters or load-bearing beams according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003 should be 140 - 250 mm.

• It is usually recommended to move the chimney slightly to one side relative to the ridge. Moreover, if the pipe is located at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, then it should rise above it to a height of 50 cm;
• If the distance from the ridge to the passage unit fluctuates around 1.5 - 3 m, then the height of the pipe can be made flush with the ridge;
• When the roof is pitched or the distance from the ridge beam to the passage unit is more than 3 m, it is allowed to install the top point of the pipe along a line passing at an angle of 10º relative to the horizon along the ridge. To make it easier for you to understand, a diagram is presented below.

The most undesirable place for installing chimneys and ventilation pipes is their location in the “valley”. For those who don’t know, it’s called enodova internal corner, which is formed by connecting two roof slopes. This does not threaten ordinary classical structures; this arrangement can be found on multi-level roofs with a complex configuration.

If you are faced with a case where your chimney pipe passage through the roof is in the “valley”, then it is better to try to make an extra bend and move the pipe half a meter to the side.

For the so-called sandwich structures, from which most chimneys for boilers and sauna stoves are now made, this will not be difficult. Otherwise, water will constantly attack your connecting node from three sides and sooner or later a leak will occur.

Self-installation of passages through the roof or ceiling

If previously roofs were mostly covered with slate, now it is increasingly being replaced by metal tiles and other modern roofing materials. Plus, in addition to the passage through the roof, you also need to take care of the transitions through the ceiling.

Elastic transition block as the easiest way out

A good half of modern chimneys and almost all ventilation outlets are now made round. It is precisely for such designs that elastic adapters are produced.

This adapter is a multi-stage funnel with a square or round base. A heat-resistant, elastic polymer is used as the main material.

Each stage on the funnel corresponds to one of the running diameters of the chimney. In order for the pipe to fit tightly, you only need to cut the adapter with scissors to the level you need.

Hermetically sealed fixation of the soft polymer base (flange) to the roof itself is carried out metal studs and bolts. Such a flange can take any shape, so it easily bends around the complex topography of roofing coverings.

The price for such a product is quite reasonable, plus the installation instructions, in my opinion, are more than simple. As I said, first you need to cut the cone to the desired diameter. After this, you need to lubricate the joint between the adapter and the pipe and the lower, contact part of the flange with heat-resistant sealant. Next, all you have to do is screw the flange with metal pins through the pre-drilled holes to the lower flange ring.

Insulated sandwich chimneys are distinguished by their mirror shine. If you don’t like the elastic polymer adapter, then for such cases there are metal adapters made from the same stainless steel. They differ from their polymer counterparts in the large dimensions of the apron, the specified angle of inclination of the roof and the clearly defined diameter of the chimney.

Metal adapter.

The installation of such stainless steel adapters differs from the previous version only in that, in addition to heat-resistant sealant, a metal clamp is additionally used to seal the adapter and pipe.

Arranging a passage through metal tiles

I would like to immediately note that it is quite difficult to correctly pass a pipe through a metal tile without experience, so after studying the instructions and looking at the thematic photos and videos in this article, you should think carefully about whether you are capable of such a labor feat.

The connecting unit consists of an internal main and external decorative apron. Experienced roofers usually make the inner apron from tin or thin aluminum sheet. We have already mentioned round pipes, so next we will talk about sealing the joint of the roof with square or rectangular brick pipes.

The inner apron is installed directly on the sheathing before laying the metal tiles. The design consists of 4 parts, according to the number of pipe planes. Each of these parts must extend under the layer of metal tiles by at least 250 - 300 mm. It extends onto the pipe by 150 - 250 mm, again from the metal tile layer.

Before installing the apron elements along the perimeter of the pipe at the same level parallel to the roof, a groove 10 - 15 mm deep is cut with a grinder. We will insert the upper cut of the apron into it.

Before inserting the apron elements into the groove, it is cleaned, washed with water, dried and filled with heat-resistant sealant. Only the sealant needs to be filled right before installing the protective elements.

On the plates themselves, along the upper cut, the edge is bent at 90º to the depth of the groove. Personally, I did it simpler, I immediately inserted the sheets into the groove and, tapping with a hammer, bent them down parallel to the pipe.

We complete the installation of the apron by attaching it to the pipe with special heat-resistant dowels and soldering the joints between all four elements. But that’s not all; a so-called tie is inserted and attached to the roof underlay underneath the apron. This is a sheet of the same tin or aluminum, the width of which must exceed the dimensions of the pipe by at least half a meter on each side.

It should go down the underlayment to the edge of the roof. The tie is a kind of insurance, if somewhere the decorative trim starts to leak, water will flow down the tie under the metal tile. As a result, the roofing cake will remain dry.

When the inner apron and tie are finally secured to the pipe and roof sheathing, you can begin laying the metal tiles themselves. At the end, a decorative apron is installed. Each metal tile manufacturer produces its own additional elements and makes them to match the color of the roof.

Such aprons, as a rule, are a corrugated aluminum or lead sheet, on the back of which a self-adhesive coating is applied. On top of this apron is equipped with a decorative strip, which is fixed to the pipe with self-tapping screws. But before fixing, it is advisable to additionally coat the joint with heat-resistant.

The top strip of the decorative apron is attached just above the border of the lower main apron; after fixing it, the apron itself is carefully tapped rubber mallet so that the corrugated sheet fits well and sticks to the complex surface of the metal tile.

The arrangement of transitions with soft modern roofing materials is carried out in approximately the same way, with the only difference that they often do without installing a tie.

The main mistake of amateurs is that they often neglect to install the main lower apron and tie; the decorative upper apron holds up well, of course, but the thin, soft aluminum corrugation barrier is not particularly reliable and can be easily damaged, for example, by a branch falling from a tree .

How to protect a wooden base from a hot chimney

As you remember, according to SNiP standards 41-03-01-2003 minimum distance from the chimney to any wooden structures starts from 140 mm. Sandwich elements are considered the most “advanced” in this regard, but even there the insulation has a maximum thickness of only 100 mm.

We conclude that all chimneys when passing through wooden roof structures or wooden interfloor ceilings must be protected.

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse is the most striking illustration of this topic, since bathhouses in our great power are usually made of wood. It is worth adding to this that the temperature in sauna stoves is often higher than in conventional ones.

It is believed that in order for dry wood to begin to char, it only needs 200ºC. And when the temperature reaches 300ºС, there is a real danger of spontaneous combustion.
Considering that birch firewood give temperatures up to 500ºС, and when using good coal or coke, the temperature can rise above 700ºС, then the scale of the danger becomes clear.

When arranging such transitions, you can go two ways: buy a special transition block or do it yourself.

Now the industry produces a variety of ceiling pass-through units (CPU). In expensive structures of this type, a special reinforced box is provided, which comes along with insulation, filler and other accessories. But as far as I have come across, our man does not want to pay money for such conveniences, and in this, I agree with him.

The fact is that the design itself is not particularly complicated and here, as often happens with us, it is cheaper to buy everything separately. First, I will tell you what the classic instructions for such an arrangement look like, and then I will tell you how I made the passage of the pipe through the ceiling of the bathhouse with my own hands:

• In almost any construction market you can now find special metal boxes with a hole already cut to a certain diameter of the chimney;
• In the horizontal plate of such a box, which is also part of the ceiling, mounting holes for self-tapping screws are made around the perimeter. But the structure cannot be immediately attached to a “bare” wooden ceiling. Its edges must first be covered with a non-flammable heat insulator. Most often, asbestos sheet is used for these purposes;
• The dimensions of the vertical walls of the box are selected in a similar way so that an asbestos sheet can be secured between them and the passage hole;

• The inside of the vertical walls of the box should be lined with foil basalt wool 30 - 50 mm thick, of course it costs more than usual, but these are the instructions;
• It is almost impossible to select the holes in the box for the chimney absolutely clearly without the slightest gap, although there will be at least a small gap. Here it is supposed to be covered with heat-resistant sealant;
• Next, the space between the foiled basalt wool and the chimney is filled with expanded clay or the same wool, only soft and uncoated. For non-residential attic floor this is enough, but if the bath mansard type, and there is a rest room on the second floor, then the box on top needs to be covered with a mineralite plate (a heat-resistant and safer analogue of asbestos) or the same stainless steel plate.

Now, as I promised, I will tell you about my own experience in arranging such a transition. The bathhouse was made a long time ago, and then these convenient devices it simply wasn't there. Sandwich designs at that time cost incredible amounts of money, so an abandoned cast iron pipe was installed as a chimney.

Square hole in wooden floor It was cut with the expectation that there would be at least 250 mm in all directions between the chimney and the wood. I immediately filled the vertical walls of the niche with asbestos sheeting.

A three-millimeter stainless steel sheet was hemmed underneath. I wanted to hem a ten-millimeter asbestos-cement slab, but I was afraid that it would burst from the temperature, although my neighbor hemmed it and is still standing.

I wrapped the pipe in the box with asbestos cloth and caulked the gap with clay on top of it. And on top of this entire structure I covered it with expanded clay of medium diameter. On the second floor of the bathhouse, I decided to make a rest room, but at that time I did not have a second sheet of stainless steel of the same type.

Then I mixed a cement-lime mortar based on expanded clay sand and poured a thirty-millimeter wire-rod reinforced screed. Only the screed was not poured close to the cast iron pipe, but through a gasket made of asbestos sheet, otherwise it would simply crack with temperature fluctuations.

Conclusion

As you can see, you can make a passage through the roof of the chimney with your own hands. But still, if you decide to spend money on a high-quality coating made of metal tiles or other similar materials, I recommend that you first carefully study available methods. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to answer.

July 28, 2016

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One of the most important tasks when building a bathhouse is the correct exit and sealing of the chimney pipe. Moreover, two problems need to be solved at the same time: ensuring fire safety and insulating the pipe joint from the flow of precipitation and condensate.

First of all, before solving the problem of water passage, it is necessary to determine where the pipe exits on the roof. The height of the pipe must comply with certain standards. The height depends on where the pipe will exit on the pitched roof.

When installing a pipe, the following rule applies: “The closer to the ridge, the higher the pipe should be raised.”

Elevation of the chimney above the roof plane

• If the distance from the center of the chimney to the ridge of the roof does not exceed 1500 mm, the pipe must be raised above the ridge not less than 500 mm;
• With a distance from the center of the pipe to the ridge from 1500 to 3000 mm, the top of the pipe can be at the same level as the roof ridge;
• At a distance of more than 3 meters, the top of the pipe must be no lower than a line drawn down from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizontal.

Where is it better to route the pipe through the roof of the bathhouse?

Most convenient option to exit the pipe through the roof - pass it through the ridge. In this case, installation is easiest; there are rarely snow pockets on the ridge, and thanks to this arrangement it is easy to install insulation work. But this method has a drawback: the rafter system should not have a ridge beam. An option with two beams that are attached in the area where the chimney passes through the roof is also suitable, but this is quite difficult to implement and is not always possible.

The most unfortunate option for placing a chimney is in a valley (a valley is a roofing element made of a kind of tray, forming an internal angle between the joints pitched elements roofs). They usually accumulate here large masses snow, when it rains, water flows down from two slopes, so even with the most careful insulation, a leak is only a matter of time.

The most convenient option for venting the pipe through the roof is near the ridge

Based on this, the most acceptable option for pitched roofs– not far from the ridge, but below it:

• installation is quite simple,
• There is usually little snow accumulation, which means there is no need to install snow retention,
• installation is not the most difficult,
• Due to the not very high height of the pipe, it does not need to be reinforced with braces.

If it turns out that the chimney runs close to the floor beams, or close to them (the minimum distance should be 13-25 cm depending on the type of pipe), exits in the valley or close to the slope, an additional elbow, with which you can lead the pipe to the right place.

In any case, to drain condensate in the waterproofing layer, you will need to attach a drainage groove. You can buy it (usually it is made from stainless steel), or you can make it yourself from a film of sufficient thickness. The groove is secured around the pipe and its end is pulled out to the side. Thus, the condensate flows into this groove and is discharged onto the roof slope.

Passage through the roof depending on the roofing material and type of chimney

When passing through the roof, the most important thing is to remove the water flowing down the roof and the pipe itself. To protect against precipitation, protective aprons are used, the upper edge of which is placed either under the sheet of roofing material located above, or under the ridge.

When venting the chimney through the roof, it must be fixed, but so that it remains movable relative to the roof. Otherwise, due to thermal expansion/contraction, the integrity will be compromised and leaks will certainly appear. For example, a round pipe can be given direction by metal strips or corners.

When installing, check the verticality using a plumb line - this is important so that soot does not accumulate and there is good traction.

Brick pipe passage through the roof

If the chimney is brick, rectangular or square in shape, you can use the materials included with the roofing material.

You can make an apron for a square or rectangular pipe yourself. Roofers usually use sheet metal for this, but sheet aluminum works well. Four separate parts are made of metal - two side, front and back.

The metal strips are bent so that one part fits onto the pipe, and the second is attached to the sheathing. In a brick chimney, in the upper part of the apron, an edge is made, which is inserted into a special groove and coated with sealant. To prevent water flowing down the apron from getting onto the sheathing and insulation pie, a sheet of metal of large width is placed under the front part of the apron, with curved sides along the edges. It goes under the roofing material and is called a “tie.”

If metal tiles are used on the roof, then an apron is made from a smooth sheet of the same color, the upper edge of which is tucked under the row of roofing material located above so that water flows onto the apron and does not flow under it. If the pipe comes out close to the ridge, you can either tuck it under the ridge itself, or bend it to the other side.

There is one important nuance: if the width of the brick chimney is more than 80 cm (its size perpendicular to the rafters) you need to make a slight slope gable roof, located above. It removes sediment, reducing the likelihood of leakage. But such a width of chimneys in a bathhouse is the exception rather than the rule.

Passage of a round pipe through the roof

Modern round chimneys in bathhouses are common. Occasionally, you can still see asbestos pipes on the roofs of bathhouses, and even more rarely - a single pipe without thermal insulation.

A simple single wall, which is discharged through the roof, carries a very high probability of a fire. Therefore, using this option is extremely undesirable.

Modern round pipes are usually sandwich pipes

The video below shows an option for sealing a pipe when installed on a metal tile roof.

If metal tiles are used as a roofing material, then manufacturers often offer roofing passages. They are made from a sheet of the same color and connected to a special cap through which the pipe passes.

Easy and simple to seal round pipe on the roof if you use a factory penetration. It consists of an aluminum flange to which an elastic part made of rubber or silicone is attached.

Factory-made penetrations are the most easy option sealing the junction of pipe and roof

They are different sizes and have different angles slope You can choose it for any diameter, roof type and installation location. The penetration flange is coated with a composition similar to the composition of the corrugated part; there are grooves along the edges into which they are filled with sealant. One of the penetrations, “Master Flash,” has 11 sizes that cover diameters from 3 to 660 millimeters.

Walkthrough "Master Flash" MASTER FLASH

When installing such a penetration, part of the corrugation is cut off in accordance with the required diameter. Then it is put on the pipe. The rubber must move with force to ensure a tight fit. Since the hole is about 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe, you have to pull hard. To make less effort, you can lubricate both with soapy water.

After the corrugation is stretched to the right place, the flange is given the required shape - the material is plastic and you can use a hammer, but you need to work carefully.

Then the grooves located on the inside are filled with sealant, the edges are pressed against the roofing material and secured (self-tapping screws are included in the kit). If the roofing material is not iron, self-tapping screws are not suitable. You need to use either long screws that will reach the sheathing, or dowels for the floor slabs.

There are quite a few options for factory-made penetrations, and there are detachable models. They are used when there are thickenings on the pipe or when they have to be mounted on an already assembled chimney of great height. In this version, the kit includes clamps that connect the parts of the passage to each other. The rest of the installation is similar.

The video shows how to seal a penetration through a regular slate roof using a MASTER FLASH corner penetration.

Roof sealants

In order to seal the joints of different parts of the bathhouse pipe passage through the roof, you need to use not just a roofing sealant, but always a heat-resistant sealant. It is advisable to use a neutral silicone heat-resistant sealant.

If Master Flash is installed on a metal roof (metal tiles or metal profiles), then it is necessary to use silicone sealant which does not contain vinegar (non-acetic sealant). This is necessary so that he does not enter into chemical reaction with metal and did not destroy it

Roofing silicone sealant retains its properties in the range from -50 ° C to +300 ° C, which is sufficient for any weather conditions and is quite suitable for sealing a chimney pipe.

But you need to remember that the surface to be treated must be clean and dry. The time for complete hardening is indicated on the packaging, usually 24 hours.

Fire safety precautions when using MASTER FLASH

MASTER FLASH made of silicone can withstand temperatures up to +300 degrees Celsius. This is quite enough to seal a sandwich pipe and, in many cases, a chimney made of asbestos-cement pipe.

As for the metal mono-pipe, in these cases it is possible to use MASTER FLASH in cases where the length of the chimney from the stove to the passage through the roof is at least 3 meters. As a rule, in this situation the temperatures will not be critical, but if not, then thermal insulation of the area that passes through the roofing pie is necessary.

Before reaching the roof, the pipe also passes through the ceiling. Do it right ceiling cutting It’s not difficult: there are factory pass-through units, but you can do without them.

In buildings with stove heating, such as a private house, bathhouse and others, the construction of a chimney and the organization of its outlet to the outside are required. When arranging the passage of a pipe through the roof, it is necessary to comply with certain standards in order to ensure safety and maintain the protective properties of the roof.

Chimney passage through the roof

The chimney is designed to remove fuel combustion products (coal, gas, firewood, peat) and form stove draft. The method of exiting the pipe through the roof is determined at the design stage. The main condition for this is to ensure the fire safety of the roof, especially at its junction with the pipe, as well as to protect the joint from the ingress of atmospheric moisture and the accumulation of condensate. The height of the pipe is determined by SNiP standards and depends on the distance at which it is located from the roof ridge:

• if the distance from the center of the pipe to the ridge is no more than 1500 mm, then the height of the pipe above the ridge should be no less than 500 mm;
• when the distance between the center of the chimney and the roof ridge is from 1500 to 3000 mm, the height of the pipe coincides with the height of the ridge;
• if the distance exceeds 3000 mm, the height of the chimney should not be lower than a line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10°.

The height of the chimney pipe is determined by SNiP standards and depends on the distance to the roof ridge

The shorter the distance from the pipe to the ridge, the greater the height of the pipe should be.

Chimney passage unit

This element can be located in different places roofs. One of the preferred options by roofers is to pass the chimney directly through the ridge. This method is characterized by the easiest installation and avoids the accumulation of snow above the pipe wall. The disadvantage of this arrangement is that it reduces the strength of the rafter system, in which the ridge beam is either absent or sawn and secured with two supports on the sides of the pipe outlet, which is not always possible to implement.

The chimney outlet through the ridge is different simple installation, but can compromise the strength of the rafter system

Most often, the pipe is located near the ridge. This way the chimney is least exposed to cold, and therefore condensation accumulates inside. The disadvantage of this arrangement is that the closer the pipe is to the ridge, the greater its height, which means that construction will require additional funds.

Exiting the chimney at a short distance from the ridge is the most common and convenient option.

It is not recommended to route the chimney through the valley, as snow can accumulate in these places, which will lead to a violation of the waterproofing and the occurrence of leaks. In addition, it is difficult to organize a chimney duct at the junction of the slopes. You should not place the chimney at the bottom of the slope - it can be damaged by snow coming off the roof.

The material from which the pipe is made also affects the organization of its outlet system. Typically, pipes are made of metal, asbestos cement or fire bricks, but sometimes ceramic ones are also found. The methods of waterproofing them will be different. In addition, each type of fuel has a certain combustion temperature, and this must also be taken into account when constructing a chimney.

Depending on the shape of the chimney pipe, the outlet hole can be square, round, oval or rectangular. To protect the roof covering from high temperatures and protect it from fire, a box is installed around the chimney. This happens as follows:

1. Additional rafters are installed to the right and left of the pipe.
2. Horizontal beams are laid at the bottom and top at the same distance and of a similar cross-section. The distance between the box beams and the pipe walls is determined by SNiP and is 140–250 mm.
3. Inside the box is filled with non-flammable insulating material, for example, stone or basalt wool. It is not recommended to use fiberglass due to its high flammability.

The space of the box should not be filled with fiberglass - it can ignite under the influence of high temperatures

It is necessary to take into account that the construction of the box may disrupt the ventilation of the under-roof space, so additional ventilation systems can be installed.

Video: installation features of the chimney passage unit

Features of chimney outlet through different types of roofing

When arranging the passage of a chimney pipe, you need to pay attention to protection from precipitation that will flow down the pipe and roof. To moisture-proof the connection between the pipe and the roof, a protective apron is installed around the chimney. This technology is similar for roofs with different coatings.

Metal tile covering

Metal tiles are a popular roofing material consisting of thin steel, aluminum or copper sheets coated with a protective layer.

Output of a square or rectangular pipe

If the pipe is made of brick and has a square or rectangular cross-section, you can use the materials included with the coating to pass it through the metal tile roof. Because brick chimneys may have non-standard dimensions; before removal, part of the covering sheets is removed or a hole of a larger area is cut out.

To waterproof the joint, special elastic tapes with an adhesive layer applied to one side are used. One edge of the tape is glued to the base of the pipe, the other to the roof sheathing. The edge is fixed at the top metal strip, which is attached with heat-resistant dowels to the pipe wall. All joints are coated with sealant.

To reduce the likelihood of water flowing down the chimney wall, you can make a recess under the bar - a groove

You can make an apron for a square or rectangular pipe with your own hands. It is made from a smooth metal sheet of the same color as the main coating. The upper edge of the apron is tucked under the row of metal tiles located above so that water flowing from above does not fall under it. If the pipe is located close to the ridge, the edge of the apron can be tucked under the ridge or bent to the other side. To protect the passage opening from precipitation, a tie is installed under the apron.

It is better to organize the outlet of the chimney before laying the metal tile covering.

Conducting a round pipe

When venting the chimney round section or sandwich pipes through a metal tile roof, roofing penetrations are most often used, connected to a cap through which the pipe is passed. A neat cut is made in the coating round hole according to the size of the chimney, a universal glass or master flush is placed on the pipe, the joints are sealed.

To seal the joint between the round pipe and the roof, special penetrations are used

Video: sealing the passage of a brick pipe through a metal tile roof

Corrugated roofing

Profiled sheet is one of the most common roofing materials. But a leak can also occur in it if the chimney outlet is not arranged correctly. With this type of coating, it is better to place the chimney vertically. The hole in the roof is cut with a grinder, and it is necessary to ensure that the cut edge of the corrugated sheet is without jagged edges.

Carrying out a rectangular pipe

If it is necessary to organize a passage for a rectangular or square pipe, the apron can be made from galvanized sheet.

1. 4 strips are cut out of metal, which will be placed in front, behind and on the sides of the pipe.
2. A sheet of galvanized steel is laid from the bottom edge of the chimney to the eaves. This element is called a tie and is subsequently covered with roofing material.
3. The planks are tightly attached to the pipe, their lower part is fixed to the sheathing, and the upper part is placed on the chimney.
4. A groove is made in the wall of the pipe into which the curved edge of the strip is inserted. First, the bottom bar is installed, then both sides and the top. The sheets are folded under one another.
5. Before laying corrugated sheeting, the passage of the chimney must be waterproofed. You can use a regular waterproofing film, which is cut with an “envelope” and glued to the pipe, but it is better to use self-adhesive waterproofing tape.

The upper bar adjacent to the pipe is filled with sealant

Round pipe outlet

When leading a round pipe through a corrugated sheet covering, use a roll bitumen waterproofing or foil bitumen tape. Put on the chimney roof penetration, which is glued to the sheathing and sealed with heat-resistant sealant. If the passage is made of rubber, it can melt from the heating of the pipe, so it is necessary to secure a clamp with a heat-resistant gasket under it.

If you use a roofing duct made of heat-resistant rubber, you can avoid its melting

Video: passing a pipe through a corrugated roof

Ondulin roofing

Ondulin is also called “Euroslate”. The peculiarity of this coating is that it is flammable and does not have great strength. Therefore, in order to pass the chimney pipe, you will need to make a large hole in the roof and fill it with fire-resistant material that will prevent moisture from entering.

To waterproof the joint between the chimney and the roof, install a metal roof trim with an apron, the edges of which are placed under sheets of ondulin or use an elastic tape “Onduflesh”. This coating requires additional ventilation.

In the roof made of ondulin, you will need to make a hole for a larger diameter pipe and fill it with fire-resistant material

Video: sealing a chimney on a roof made of ondulin

How to route a pipe through a soft roof

Soft roofing is also a flammable material, so a gap of 13–25 mm must be left between the covering and the chimney. Waterproofing the pipe is carried out in the same way as with other coatings, only instead of an elastic tape, a valley carpet is used or the coating itself is applied to the pipe - bitumen shingles or roofing felt.

When waterproofing the joint between pipe and soft roof the covering itself can be used instead of an elastic band

Stages of work to remove the chimney through the roof

To withdraw chimney through the finished roof, the following actions are necessary:

1. The location of the passage in the roof between the rafters and the cross beam is selected.
2. The box is mounted: rafters are constructed from beams, parallel rafter legs, and beams. The cross-section of the beams for the box is taken equal to the cross-section of the rafter beams. The width of the sides of the box will be 0.5 m greater than the diameter of the pipe.
3. A hole is cut in the roof slope. To do this, through holes are drilled in the four corners of the box from the inside, at the junction of the rafters and beams. After this, the layers of the roofing cake are cut along the inner perimeter of the box and diagonally.

   After installing the flange, it can be given the required shape with a hammer

Video: DIY chimney box

Exiting a chimney pipe through the roof is a responsible matter, in which strict adherence to installation technology is required so that there is no danger of leaks and pipe destruction. Carrying out pipe removal work includes many nuances that take into account the roofing covering, the material and shape of the pipe, and waterproofing methods. Therefore, you should study all stages of work in advance and consult with a specialist.