Horse chestnut is found everywhere in parks and streets. Tall deciduous tree, grows up to 25 meters in height. It is inedible, but very beautiful. The fruits are used in medicine and industry.
Actually, chestnuts belong to the beech family and the chestnut genus. But horse chestnut represents a completely different family - Sapindaceae. It also includes such well-known exotic fruits as lychee and rambutan.
If you compare the fruits and leaves of all plants of this family, including horse chestnut, you can easily find similarities. Fruits with spikes, similar to round hedgehogs. And the leaves of all representatives are similar to the leaves of Schefflera radiata, only with teeth and on long petioles: like splayed fingers.
Chestnuts are loved for their unique flowering. The so-called “candles” are flowers collected in brushes, which are arranged straight and make you admire a unique spectacle from May to June. After flowering, a fruit is formed. This spiked box contains large seed, which is called chestnut.
In Russia, horse chestnut has become widespread, especially in the middle zone. Plantings of this tree are growing from Moscow to St. Petersburg. But it does not reach large sizes there. But in the southern part of Siberia, where horse chestnut is widespread, it grows much larger. In total, 23 species of horse chestnut are known, of which about 13 grow in Russia.
California horse chestnut (Aesculus californica)
This is a native species of flora of the western states of America, including California. It is a compact tree with a wide spreading crown that looks very much like a large bush. Very often, the California chestnut has not one trunk, but several. Its height ranges from 3 to 12 meters.
The leaves consist of 5 leaf blades with a shape typical of horse chestnut leaves. The fruit is oval, with several seeds inside. Some parts of the tree, including the fruit, are poisonous.
For your decorative qualities and fragrant flowers, this type of horse chestnut is grown in parks and on the slopes of ravines to prevent soil erosion. Despite their poisonous properties, in lean years the fruits were soaked and fed to livestock.
Yellow horse chestnut (Aesculus flava)
Grows in North America. Frost-resistant species that can withstand temperatures as low as -29°C. It got its name from the yellow tint of the leaves in autumn and yellow flowers with a pink center. During flowering, the tree is covered with yellow “candles”.
The trees can reach a height of 15 meters, but the most common yellow chestnut tree is no more than 10 meters tall.
Horse chestnut (Aesculus glabra)
Perhaps the chestnut received this name for its loose, loose crown, which opens up a view of the trunk and skeletal branches. But, despite this, horse chestnut is intensively used in park management and plantings on city alleys.
The height of the tree is more than 15 meters. The crown is round, but sloppy hanging branches spoil the whole impression. In autumn, the leaves take on a rich red hue. The fruit is covered not with thorns, but with pimples.
Indian horse chestnut (Aesculus indica)
Indian horse chestnut is common and grows in North India. A giant tree 20-30 meters high with 7-fingered leaves of a reddish hue and pink flowers collected in panicles. Like most horse chestnuts, it is poisonous and has only decorative value.
Horse chestnut (Aesculus parviflora)
Small-flowered horse chestnut is a shrub, three meters in height. Its drooping arched branches create a wide crown that is much wider than it is tall. Such a chestnut grows upward only up to 4 meters, and then continues to grow due to shoots extending from the roots in breadth.
The small-flowered chestnut lives up to its name: its candle-shaped clusters are very loose, and the flowers are graceful, thin, on high stalks. This bush tree grows in partial shade or the shade of other trees due to its short stature. The fruits do not have thorns.
Red horse chestnut (Aesculus pavia)
This is perhaps the most decorative of all horse chestnuts. The red chestnut pavia is notable not for its size or leaves, but only for its carmine-red flowers. During the flowering period, the tree takes on a very elegant appearance.
Japanese horse chestnut (Aesculus turbinata)
So named because it is endemic to Japan. Over time, it was transported to other countries, including America. It is distinguished by elongated leaves and beautiful lush “candles”.
Meat-red horse chestnut (Aesculus carnea)
Like the red chestnut pavia, the meat red stands out for its flowers. During the flowering period the tree has decorative look due to candle-shaped inflorescences different shades: pink to red.
Growing from a nut
Once you decide on the variety, you can start growing. Some of listed types horse chestnut trees grow in city parks and alleys. Here you can start collecting fruits. Another tried and tested option: obtain seed material from breeders.
Preparation of chestnut planting material
In order for planting to be successful, the “nuts” need to be prepared after harvesting. Under natural conditions, without the use of additional effort, one out of 20-30 seeds grows. The preparation algorithm is as follows:
First of all, horse chestnut fruits need to be collected from the ground. Do not pick them from the tree under any circumstances, they are unripe.
Go through and select the best ones, without damage, dents or signs of disease.
The prepared fruits are peeled (with or without thorns) and soaked in a small amount of water. It is advisable that the water does not completely cover the “nuts”. The water needs to be changed every day to prevent it from turning sour. A damp cloth or gauze is placed on top of the fruit.
After 2-3 days, the swollen fruits can be placed in the refrigerator for stratification. For autumn planting it lasts 10-14 days. In this case, the chestnuts are sprinkled with slightly damp sand.
For stratification, you need to take coarse river sand. Before use, it must be calcined in the oven or microwave to kill pathogenic bacteria.
Planting chestnut nut
For planting, prepared “nuts” are placed in a furrow at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. The furrow should be no more than 10 cm deep and well watered with warm water and potassium permanganate. After this, the crops are sprinkled with old leaves or sawdust. And in the spring, when the snow melts, the mulch needs to be raked away to allow seedlings to emerge.
If the fruits will be stored all winter until spring planting, then the storage temperature should not exceed 5-7C. A month before planting, the seeds are prepared in the same way as for autumn sowing. The difference is that the stratification time can be significantly increased, and after planting the ground can be covered with film.
Chestnut fruits are very popular with mice. If you plant seeds in the fall, use a mouse repellent. For example, lubricate the fruits with Vishnevsky ointment. Or bury lumps of paper smeared with this ointment around the plantings.
Rules for caring for chestnuts
After the seedlings have appeared, you need to carefully loosen the soil around them. The treatment must be carried out so that when watering, the water does not flow in different directions, but remains in the circle around the trunk. A month after the shoots appear, the plant needs to be fed.
Take a complex mineral fertilizer or any of the organic fertilizers:
- infusion of manure;
- “green” fertilizer (infusion from grass);
- ash;
- dolomite flour;
- compost or humus.
If the fertilizer is dry, then it is scattered around the seedling. For better formation of the root system, water with a solution of nitroammophosphate or superphosphate. Why take a matchbox of fertilizer and dilute it in a bucket of water.
Watering a young chestnut tree
While the chestnut is small, it needs to be watered often, because root system is at the stage of formation. The plant cannot feed itself and obtain water from deep-lying groundwater. In addition, chestnut is moisture-loving, and it needs to be watered regularly so that the soil does not dry out.
Planting a chestnut tree in a permanent place
Chestnuts are transplanted 3 years after they were sown in the ground. For a successful landing, you need to choose the right time and place of landing.
In order for chestnuts to take root better, there is no need to delay replanting too much. It's better to do it a year earlier than later.
A large plant gets sick more when transplanted to permanent place, because the root system is damaged. The chestnut stops in growth and development in order to build up the root that is necessary for a plant of this age.
Selecting a location
Chestnut loves the sun's rays, but it is better to shade it with something at first. For example, these can be annual plants that are tall or climb along a support. You need to keep in mind that over time, when the chestnut grows, nothing should interfere with it. There should be no bushes nearby that could shade it.
Landing dates
As soon as the soil warms up in the spring, you can transplant the horse chestnut seedlings to a permanent place. In terms of timing, this is the end of April - the first half of May. Autumn replanting of the plant is also possible. This should be done as soon as constant temperature the air will not rise above 12C.
Soil preparation
The soil at the planting site should be moist and fertile. It is best if it is well-fertilized loam. Chestnut lives for a long time, so we prepare a large planting hole in advance (maybe six months before planting) so that it is saturated with oxygen.
The hole should be at least half a meter deep. Its width and length are 50-60 cm. Having dug a large hole, place various plant debris on the bottom in a layer of 20-40 cm (depending on the depth of the hole). It could be branches different thicknesses, as well as grass, pine cones, manure and turf. Before planting, you need to add ash and sand so that the roots of the plant do not come into contact with unrotted manure and plant debris.
Next, compost or fertile soil is poured up to the intended root. Add soil from the sides to the chestnut seedling. It is best if it is rotted sifted compost or humus. Before adding soil, you need to add ash (half a liter per bucket) and superphosphate (2 tablespoons per bucket). Mix well.
How to plant a chestnut from a seedling
It is best to plant chestnuts together, when one holds it over the hole, and the other prepares it and adds soil. But, if this is not possible, then the hole is filled to the brim a few days before planting so that the soil settles. Optimally - two days.
Then a small hole is dug in the center with a depth equal to the length of the root system. The hole is thoroughly watered and the seedling is placed with one hand, and the earth is raked with the other and compacted well. Then the soil around the seedling is properly spilled again.
Caring for planted chestnuts
Care comes down to regular watering, fertilizing, and loosening. If there is a danger that the seedling will break, then it needs to be tied up. The stake is placed so as not to damage the root system. Tie carefully, without pinching or rubbing the bark. Use soft rope or special twine.
When growing any seedling, including horse chestnut, while it is still small, you can mulch the soil with any organic material. It could be:
- fallen leaves;
- sawdust;
- mown grass;
- needles;
- tree bark.
Mulch retains moisture at the soil surface. As it decomposes, it acts as a slow-acting organic fertilizer. Mainly as a source of nitrogen. A soil crust does not form under the mulch and remains loose for a long time. It quickly grows with earthworms, which help loosen and enrich the soil with organic matter.
If you use pine needles or bark and sawdust as mulch coniferous species trees, be sure to neutralize the acidity of the soil. This can be done by adding ash, dolomite flour, and lime.
Feeding and fertilizer
Fertilizing is necessary, especially at first, but make sure there is no excess fertilizer. When replanting, you need to add superphosphate - a source of phosphorus, ash - potassium, phosphorus, calcium, compost and humus - nitrogen.
If necessary, every summer the seedlings are fed with complex mineral fertilizers. They do this about once every month and a half. We must not forget that nitrogen fertilizers are not necessary in the fall.
It is better not to apply fresh manure when digging around, as it can “burn” the thin roots of the plant.
How to properly prune chestnut and crown formation
Chestnut grows very slowly at first. In the first 10 years, he gradually increases in height every year. After this, at the age of 10-25 years, the fastest growth of horse chestnut begins. Therefore, you need to not miss it and form the crown before active growth. In addition, every spring you need to trim dry branches.
In the first year, all shoots should be cut in half. On next year In spring you need to remove shortened side branches. This operation is repeated until a standard of the required height is formed.
Then leave a few skeletal branches to form the crown, remove the rest. Cover the cuts with garden varnish or regular oil paint. This procedure should be carried out a few days after pruning, when the cut has dried a little. Thin, thickening branches can be pruned even in summer.
Preparing for winter
Preparing young seedlings for winter differs from how to prepare an adult horse chestnut for cold weather. Young trees need to be covered in the first years. First, mulch the soil under the chestnut tree with a thick layer.
Then, using burlap or spunbond, we form a shelter for the seedling in the first year. You can use spruce branches, which will not only retain heat, but also protect the tree from rodents.
In subsequent years, when the chestnut grows, it is necessary to clean the tree of lichens and, in case of damage, lubricate it with garden varnish.
The tree trunk circle can be mulched with manure in the fall. Fresh manure will not harm the roots of an adult plant.
Reproduction by cuttings
Horse chestnut cuttings are an effective way of vegetative propagation of the plant. The most important thing is to find a reliable source of planting material. Cuttings are carried out in the spring. It is better to prepare the area for planting cuttings in advance, in the fall.
Soil preparation
To plant cuttings you need loose and moderately nutritious soil. Soil preparation begins in the fall and is somewhat reminiscent of preparing a mixture for seedlings. The composition requirements are the same.
The soil in the area intended for planting cuttings is dug up using a shovel and thoroughly cleared of weeds. To prevent this place from being overrun by weeds, it is sown with mustard, which disinfects and enriches the soil. Before the start of winter, the soil does not need to be re-cultivated. The area goes under the snow along with the growing green manure.
In the spring you need to dig up the area again and loosen it. To create favorable conditions for rooting, you need to create a drainage cushion. To do this, the top layer of soil, 20-30 cm, is removed and fine expanded clay is laid at the bottom in a layer of 5-7 cm. The soil is mixed with sand, ash and superphosphate and returned to its place.
Harvesting cuttings
Cuttings are taken from chestnut trees that are 5-10 years old. The best time to take cuttings is during flowering. Just don’t take cuttings from branches that already have flowers. Cuttings are taken semi-lignified. Cuttings should have 3-5 internodes.
Pre-planting treatment of cuttings
An oblique cut is made on the prepared cuttings. This technique is used to increase the area of nutrition and formation of the root system. In order not to confuse the top and bottom of the cutting, some experienced gardeners make the lower cut oblique, and leave the upper one straight.
The lower cut of the cuttings is treated with growth stimulants, the most famous of which is Kornevin. Before processing, the cut needs to be dried for several hours. Additionally, you need to dip the lower part of the cutting in crushed coal to prevent rotting.
If the cutting does rot some time after planting, then it must be urgently removed, and the place where it took root should be sprayed with a fungicide or any disinfectant solution. For example, a dark solution of potassium permanganate.
Identifying a cutting that has not taken root is very simple. Leaves don't grow on it and it dries out a little.
Planting cuttings
The cuttings are planted at an angle in small grooves. They are laid in advance, filled with a mixture of sand, perlite and sifted earth. The composition of the mixture into which the lower part of the cuttings will be dipped should be very light and breathable.
We shed the furrows with a solution of potassium permanganate and plant the cuttings, deepening 2 buds at a time. We squeeze the earth around thoroughly, adding new earth. Plantings need to be covered with spunbond.
Firstly, cuttings need a little shading. Too bright rays of the spring and summer sun can dry out both planting material, and the soil. Secondly, soil moisture should be maintained at approximately the same level.
Caring for cuttings
Caring for cuttings comes down to timely watering, loosening and weeding. Until the cutting takes root, it does not need to be fed. There should not be excess fertilizers in the soil, especially nitrogen ones. For better rooting the soil is dug up with superphosphate. Phosphorus is actively involved in the formation of the root system.
There should not be a single weed in the cuttings. The soil must be clean. You need to especially carefully monitor areas that are in close proximity to chestnut trees. Weeds interfere with the development of cultivated plants, suppressing them. Therefore, you need to get rid of them in a timely manner.
Diseases and pests of chestnut
In order for a tree to grow healthy, you need to follow the rules of pruning and shaping so that the leaves are ventilated and there is no stagnation of moisture inside the crown, which leads to the spread of diseases. Horse chestnut has three main enemies:
- mining (chestnut) moth;
- wood mite;
- powdery mildew.
To prevent chestnut from being damaged by moths, it is necessary to collect and burn all the leaves that have fallen from the trees in the fall, where the pest larvae usually hide. You can try using another material as mulch.
When a chestnut tree is infected by a wood mite, the leaves acquire a reddish tint and small bright dots appear on them. Branches that are heavily damaged by mites should be collected and burned. Healthy parts of the plant are sprayed by special means.
Powdery mildew is a scourge not only of chestnuts. It spreads especially during prolonged humid weather at low temperatures. Powdery mildew fungus spores love these conditions and quickly spread throughout the garden.
A grayish coating appears on the leaves, as if dusted with flour, hence the name. Subsequently, the leaves and tree become covered with growing brown spots that grow. During this period, the tree is sprayed with fungicides, simultaneously destroying the affected areas.
Horse chestnut is a very beautiful tree. Having planted it, in 5 years you will get a slender tree with spectacular unusual leaves and beautiful flowering. And in another five years it will become your universal favorite.
I grew a chestnut from a nut about eight years ago, and now it grows beautifully under my window in a country house. Looks very good! I like chestnut leaves - large, with teeth, they have a peculiar volume (they seem to be corrugated).
When I was growing it, I was, of course, worried: will it work? Will the tree in which so much hope has been invested die? But the chestnut turned out to be a “tough nut to crack”; it grew quickly; after planting in open ground, it turned out that it is not afraid of frost ( we're talking about about Central Russia).
But until he was four years old, he grew up in a greenhouse. I grew the tree using technology, but there is nothing complicated about it. If you follow my steps, you will get a strong, tall tree with beautiful leaves, straight trunk and magnificent flowers.
By the way, the chestnut tree blooms for two whole weeks! This is a wonderful sight and joy for the whole family, as well as another reason to grow a chestnut tree yourself and plant it near the house.
In this article I will tell you how to plant a chestnut tree and how to grow a nut seedling.
Chestnut is a very beautiful tree with a unique appearance. It has a wide, spreading crown, the height of the tree reaches 25 m. Closer to October, the fruits ripen on the tree, and it also looks very stylish.
By the way, many types of chestnut have inedible fruits. So don't count on having a source of tasty nuts. No, in the northern zones chestnuts have more decorative value. But the trees are really good and do an excellent job with their main role - decorating the land.
Planting, caring for, and propagating chestnut trees is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to grow a viable seedling, and then the tree will grow on its own.
In fact, there are many options for chestnut propagation:
- Cuttings;
- By layering;
- Root suckers;
- Seeds.
How to choose a landing site
When planting a chestnut, it is important to choose a good place, this will guarantee that in the future the tree will turn green and grow quickly. The chestnut tree needs the sun like it needs air! This is why growing chestnuts in northern latitudes is problematic.
It is also important to ensure that there are no buildings, sheds, large trees, or gazebos near the location you choose. There must be space within a radius of 5 m! Chestnut is a fairly large plant and needs a lot of space.
Thus, the requirements for the landing site are as follows:
- High illumination,
- Sufficient space for the root system,
- Space for the crown of the future tree (a 5 m radius space should be free).
Planting a seedling
The chestnut root system has an interesting feature - it is superficial. Therefore, after choosing a good place, you still need to prepare the soil so that the tree is comfortable.
High-quality drainage is needed: a layer of sand or a mixture of sand and clay should be placed in a prepared hole up to 60 cm deep. This is done to prevent the roots from rotting: stagnation of water is detrimental to chestnut.
Most often, horse chestnut is planted in the fall. Alternatively, it can be planted in early spring. When planting, it is important to make sure that you do not bury the root collar in the ground - it should be at soil level. As soon as planting is completed, it is necessary to water the seedling abundantly (at least 3 buckets of water per 1 tree).
While the tree is very young, it can be damaged by an animal or wind. To prevent this from happening, you need to install supports on four sides.
Peculiarities of propagation of chestnut from walnut
As I already mentioned, the method of growing chestnuts from walnuts is very attractive. This will be your tree, which you grew yourself from a small chestnut tree. It's not difficult to do this. You will need, in fact, only fully ripened fruits and time - about 3-4 years. Which fruits are suitable for our purposes:
- fallen to the ground themselves,
- whole,
- undamaged,
- no traces of disease or rodent damage,
- without traces of rot.
In the fall, collect several ripe chestnuts and place them in a covered container with wet sand. This is how artificial stratification is carried out (without it, the chestnut will not sprout). The chestnut should lie in the sand for some time, for example, until spring. Everything is like in nature! Indeed, under natural conditions, the chestnut fruit rests in cool soil before germinating.
Closer to spring, you can get a nut and soak it in warm water (this is an imitation of warm spring rains). The water needs to be changed from time to time (monitor the condition). When the nut has a softened peel, you can plant it in a pot.
The tree will soon sprout, and with the first warm days you can put it in the sun, in the yard. If you live in a warm climate, the chestnut tree can grow in a pot and spend the winter in a greenhouse for the first three years.
If you live in the middle zone, then it is advisable to grow the chestnut to a more mature state - it should winter in a greenhouse for about 5 years. But no more! The chestnut must harden and get used to external conditions.
In summer, it is advisable to water the young tree with soft water, loosen the soil, and feed it. Mature chestnuts do not require such care, but in case of drought, it is advisable to water the tree additionally (in the evening).
It is advisable to fertilize in early spring; cow manure is perfect. Also in the fall, chestnuts are prepared for wintering by feeding them with a special mixture: 15 g of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water.
If you wish, you can prune the chestnut to form a symmetrical crown; it takes pruning well.
It so happened that in my native Western Siberia the bulk of the forests are small-leaved, consisting of birch and aspen. On the one hand, I like birch forests. They are light and spacious and are inhabited by a huge number of birds. There are many mushrooms and berries in birch forests, which provide food for both people and animals.
But the birch tree itself does not produce any berries, nuts, or acorns. Moreover, the maximum lifespan of a birch is only about a hundred years. In such a short period of time, the birch does not have time to turn into a huge, thick, hollow tree and ingloriously dies from the wind and rot. Therefore, there are no centuries-old birch forests. And since there are no old forests, then there are no fairy tales and myths associated with them. In England there is Sherwood, in Germany there is the Black Forest, but in the Irtysh region there is nothing (may the singer of the Artyn Forest, comrade, forgive me sibariana
).
The reason is simple - both Sherwood and Black Forest forests are broad-leaved. Such forests do not grow in Western Siberia. Scientists believe that the culprit is the harsh continental climate, which is incompatible with delicate oaks, beeches and ash trees. The most populated forest-steppe strip of the West Siberian Plain is covered almost exclusively with birch with small patches of aspen. True, willows grow along the banks of reservoirs, and pine forests are very rare on the hills, but as a percentage of birch their number is negligible.
Millions of years ago, during the Holocene, almost the entire territory of Northern Eurasia was covered with dense mixed forests with a predominance of broad-leaved species. A sudden climate change radically changed the botanical map of the Old World - oaks, beeches, hornbeams, maples and other ash trees remained only in Europe, and Western Siberia, after the departure of the glacier, became the territory of small-leaved forests - birch and aspen.
Current West Siberian Plain compared to prehistoric times, it is extremely scarce in biological terms. The heat-loving broad-leaved forests that once grew here have disappeared, and along with them the animals that inhabited them. There are no more bison, argali, or musk oxen in Siberia. I'm not even talking about the aurochs and tarpans, which were completely destroyed over the past centuries.
Currently, in Eurasia there remains only one more or less large fragment of the primeval relict forest that once covered the plains from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. This is the famous Belovezhskaya Pushcha, located on the Polish-Belarusian border. In terms of biological diversity, the Pushcha is comparable to modern equatorial forests - 958 (!) species of vascular spore and seed plants grow on its very small territory, 260 (!) species of mosses and bryophytes, more than 290 (!) species of lichens and 570 (!) species mushrooms (I quote Wikipedia). And this is just, as they say, a remnant of former luxury. Can you imagine how many plant species grew in ancient forests before the glacier and the woodcutter's ax reached them? How many species of mammals, birds, amphibians and reptiles, insects and arachnids found shelter under the shade of thousand-year-old trees?
In Western Siberia, only microscopic islands remain of the primeval lowland forests - these are small groves of heart-shaped linden, the only species of broad-leaved trees growing in Siberia and, by some miracle, surviving glacial period. In the Omsk region, hundred-year-old linden trees can be seen in the Ust-Ishim region, in the floodplain of the Bicha River (the so-called Baksheevsky linden forests); in the Novosibirsk region, several dozen relict linden trees grow on a mane island in the middle of the large Senchensky swamp (not far from the village of Verkhnee-Rovensky Kargatsky district). Scientists discovered these linden groves only in the 18th century and for a long time They sincerely believed that these were wild plantings of abandoned apiaries (linden is an excellent honey plant). But, as further study showed, no one planted these linden trees, and they have been growing in these places for millions of years. The reason for such fantastic survival is still unknown.
Why did I write all this? And it seems to me that what is happening in last years climate change makes it possible to begin work on resuscitating Western Siberian nature. I have absolutely no knowledge of forestry, but I have seen oak trees successfully growing here with my own eyes. At the Omsk Agrarian University there is a large park in which trees, which have always been considered heat-loving, grow normally (you can see a photo of an oak grove). There is a hundred-year-old Komissarov Garden with plantings of oak, ash, maple, linden, Turkestan elm and even almonds with wild grapes. Right in the center of Omsk there is a dendrological park with no less exotic plants. The example of wild Baksheevsky linden forests also clearly demonstrates the possibility of a successful existence in Siberia of a natural population of broad-leaved trees.
There are references on the Internet that in the Stalin years there was a program (almost authored by the famous Trofim Lysenko) of mass planting of oak trees in Western Siberia. Unfortunately, I don’t know the details of this program and I don’t know anything about its implementation either. Although I had to read that there are significant numbers of oak trees on the northern shore of Lake Chany.
It seems that it is pointless to plant southern species in the Siberian climate - they will die from winter frosts. However, there are a considerable number of broad-leaved trees that are quite suitable for Western Siberian latitudes. The same pedunculate oak tolerates our winters well, and the following is written about the Mongolian oak in plant growing encyclopedias: “Grows slowly, is moderately light-loving, quite frost-resistant, sometimes suffers from late spring frosts. Suitable for the south and southeast of Siberia, average and southern parts of the Far East, including Sakhalin, in the form of single and group plantings, small tracts and alleys".
And here is the Amur linden: “It has significant shade tolerance and high frost resistance. Thanks to its powerful and well-developed root system, it is wind-resistant and requires moderately moist, rich soil. It grows slowly, reproduces by seeds and layering, produces abundant growth from the stump, and tolerates replanting, pruning and shaping, and urban conditions well. Lives up to 200-300 years» .
Or jagged chestnut: “Distributed in coniferous-deciduous forests of North America. Refers to light-loving, fast-growing breeds. It usually grows along the edges of plantings, in clearings, occupying dry locations, avoiding calcareous soils. IN northern regions of its range, tolerates frosts down to -27 degrees, thus being the most cold-resistant representative of the genus". Minus 27 is, of course, not enough, but you can try.
What are the benefits of oaks and chestnuts? They produce extremely nutritious fruits that serve as food for a huge number of animals - from mice to bears. All these acorns and nuts are a rich source of vegetable protein, which the inhabitants of small-leaved forests are deprived of. Therefore, we need to try to introduce as many similar trees and shrubs as possible into the Siberian flora - hazel, for example. Or maybe a wonderful tree called Siebold nut. The following is written about him: "Extended to Kuril Islands, Sakhalin, in the mountain forests of Japan. Tree up to 20 m tall... Fruits are round or ovoid, up to 5 cm long, with a hairy, sticky surface, in hanging clusters, up to 20 pieces. Nut (up to 4 cm) with a sharp top and rounded base, seed kernel good taste. A highly ornamental plant capable of purifying the air from gasoline and acetylene vapors, surpassing other species of the genus in this indicator. Grows fast winter-hardy. Propagated by seed, cuttings and grafting. Used in single and group plantings, along roads in the European part of Russia, mainly up to the latitude of Moscow. Durable» .
What about gray walnut? I've never seen him, but: “Tree up to 30 m tall. It is less demanding on soil than walnut and black walnut, less moisture-loving than Manchurian walnut. Durable, lives up to 200 years. There are hybrids with walnut (J, x quadrangulata Rehd.), as well as with Manchurian nut and Siebold nut. All of them are characterized by high frost resistance. It is very decorative with large odd-pinnate foliage and an openwork crown; it can be used in gardens and parks to create alleys, small groups and single plantings. Due to its high frost resistance, it is suitable for cultivation in the forest-steppe and central zones of the European part of Russia, as well as in the southern zone of the taiga and forest-steppe of Western Siberia".
Of course, now no one will plant broad-leaved forests in Siberia. Neither the state nor private business needs this. A project like this requires a lot of money, labor and time. And if under Stalin such tasks were at least discussed, now no one is interested in this.
Eh, if I had a few extra million dollars, a few extra thousand hectares of my own land and a lot of free time, I would probably try to create a mini-analog in the Irtysh region Belovezhskaya Pushcha. I would have found it appropriate place, would fence it with a fence with barbed wire in order to protect it from hunters and other lovers of drinking in nature. First I would plant the empty lands with broad-leaved and coniferous trees, I would bring several bison with deer, and release beavers into reservoirs. I would name scientists - foresters and soil scientists, zoologists and botanists, to whom I would assign the task of re-acclimatization in the harsh Siberian conditions of animals and plants that once inhabited the vast Trans-Ural plains. Let them test their knowledge in practice; they have no business sitting in departments and torturing students.
Who knows, maybe one of the scientific botanists will be able to grow a real primeval forest on the Siberian black soil, which will have its own Tsar Oak, no worse than the Belovezh one:
And later I would transform the resulting oasis into the Siberian Pleistocene Park - a scientific and entertainment complex with the flora and fauna of prehistoric times. However, I won’t get ahead of myself - I’ll write about the Siberian Pleistocene Park some other time, since this idea is still very raw and requires careful thought. But I am sure that this will be a unique environmental experiment. And if you do business correctly, you can also make good money from this park.
Manilov is a good one, isn't he?
The chestnut is tall and quite powerful deciduous tree with a rounded crown. It is usually grown in parks and other recreation areas and used in landscape design. A mature chestnut tree can reach more than 10 meters in height. When chestnuts bloom, which happens in the spring, they look great and provide shade from direct sunlight.
Many gardeners want to decorate their garden with this beautiful tree, but find it difficult to choose a variety. So what variety? the best How is it suitable for growing in the country and how to properly care for and plant this spectacular tree?
Varieties of chestnut for planting and their descriptions
These powerful trees are widespread in the Caucasus, Siberia, Central Asia and grow mainly in forests. Those chestnuts that decorate recreation areas in numerous cities are an inedible species and are called horse chestnuts. Visually, the decorative horse chestnut is similar to the edible one, but nevertheless it belongs to a completely different family and is called so in order to distinguish it from the edible chestnut. This variety of chestnut belongs to the horse-chestnut family, while other edible species belong to the Beech family.
Horse chestnut is popular among many gardeners, thanks to its luxurious crown. But for growing at home on a small personal plot This variety is not suitable because it requires too much space. In addition, horse chestnut casts a shadow, and many other plants on the site can only be grown in direct sunlight.
Some of the most common edible chestnut varieties that can be planted at home are:
- American- a tree with edible fruits, a luxurious crown and large thick branches. This tree reaches a height of about 30 meters. The leaves are visually similar to hemp. In the autumn season, the foliage takes on an attractive purple and yellowish tint. The American chestnut begins to bloom when mid-summer arrives. The fruits are dark brown in color and taste slightly sweet. In some countries, the fruits of the American chestnut are considered a delicacy.
- European- a large tree reaching a height of more than 30 meters. This variety is also called noble and seed. European chestnut begins to bloom in early summer and bear fruit in late autumn, as soon as the leaves fall. The composition of the fruits is quite fatty, and the taste is sweet. In many countries they are used to prepare various dishes.
- Chinese softest- a low tree reaching a height of about 15 meters. It is considered one of the most beautiful varieties of chestnut. The fruits of Chinese chestnut are very fatty and have a pleasant taste.
- Japanese crenate- a tree native to Japan and China. Unlike other varieties, Japanese chestnut grows quite quickly and already in 2-3 years begins to produce tasty and fairly large fruits.
How to grow chestnuts?
First of all, you need to determine what to grow the tree from. You can plant seedlings or use them to grow fruits. Next, you need to prepare the soil and choose a suitable place on the site for planting a large tree with a spreading crown. It is advisable to plant chestnuts in a well illuminated place and allocate a lot of free space for it, since the root system of the tree is very extensive. There should not be any buildings or other plantings within the next 5 meters from the selected location.
In order to prevent stagnation of water and the roots from starting to rot, it is necessary to provide the tree with suitable loose soil with good drainage. The soil should also be moderately moist.
Chestnut planting, propagation
There are three ways to plant a crop at home: ways:
If the choice fell on growing and propagating a crop from fruits and seeds, then you should follow certain rules during planting and further care. Fruits are a must withstand about a week in a cold place, and then put them in the selected area and lightly cover with fallen leaves. With the arrival of spring, the fruits will germinate and can be planted. It is best to plant seedlings in the autumn season, since it is during these months that they produce strong shoots.
When choosing to grow ready-made seedlings, you should also follow some simple rules. First of all, you must select a suitable area and dig a hole in the shape of a cube. You need to lay drainage at the bottom of the pit, which can be used as crushed stone. The seedling must be watered abundantly, with 3 buckets of water. The young tree also needs to be supported and not removed until the roots become stronger.
Features of care
This luxurious tree is unpretentious in care and does not need frequent watering, calmly enduring the drought. Unlike mature trees, young trees are more demanding of watering and need to be watered much more often and more abundantly. Needs a chestnut fertilizers and pruning damaged and dry branches. It is necessary to fertilize the crop spring period using a solution of both mullein and urea, in a ratio of 1 kg and 15 grams per 10 liters of water.
Despite their frost resistance, in the winter months it is necessary to cover young seedlings with burlap. Mature trees that have reached three years of age are more resistant to severe frosts and do not need to be covered.
Possible diseases and pests
Any variety of this picturesque tree is susceptible to certain diseases and pest attacks. Among them it is worth highlighting following:
