How to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands? Types of ceramic tiles and how to install them on the wall Necessary tools and materials

A beautiful bathroom is a place of relaxation and restoration. Shiny clean walls and an original design can relieve fatigue after a working day and lift your spirits, so the decor of the room requires a special approach, and a competent layout of tiles can emphasize the taste and originality of the owners. On modern market There is a wide selection of finishing materials for the bathroom, but ceramic tiles are the most popular. Due to its wear-resistant and waterproof qualities, this material takes a leading place when decorating walls in the bathroom.

Before starting cladding, it is necessary to select the appropriate material. Color, tile parameters and layout method can visually enlarge or reduce a room. Most often, rectangular tiles are used for wall cladding, the standard height of which is 30 cm. A horizontal layout in light colors can visually expand the room, and a vertical layout can visually stretch it out.

  • Select small tiles;
  • Give preference to cool colors;
  • Cover with glossy tiles so that light is reflected from the surface;
  • Place ceramics on the floor diagonally to increase the volume of the room;
  • Alternate vertical stripes according to color scheme.

For a room with low ceiling it is necessary to position the frieze vertically, highlight the corners of the room with a different color scheme, and install decorative details at eye level. Such small tricks will help hide defects in the room and give the room more space.

Possible tile layout options

The tiles can be laid out different ways, it all depends on the design idea and imagination of the owners. The simplest cladding method is basic installation. Each tile is glued next to the other, parallel to the corners in the room. This method produces a clear geometric pattern. To check the horizontal, use a level, the vertical is determined using a plumb line. You can use modern laser levels. Even a beginner can cope with such cladding. The advantage is the economical consumption of material.

Basic layout options:

  • Basic method;
  • Dressing method;
  • Diagonal masonry;
  • Chess pattern;
  • Modular installation;
  • Linear design;
  • Masonry with ornaments.

The dressing method looks a little more interesting and contributes to the visual expansion of the walls of the room. The elements are laid horizontally, moving the seams of the next row to the middle of the previous element. The diagonal layout effectively benefits the pattern, visually enlarging the room and masking its uneven geometry. This cladding option requires experience and skill. The disadvantage is the high consumption of elements due to cutting the tiles. Start the layout from the bottom row, cut diagonally. Next, the entire elements are laid at an angle of 45ᵒ. The checkerboard version is usually made from square elements of different colors. The execution method is based on the basic method. Modular installation looks extremely interesting, but requires some skill.

Tiles used different sizes, from which all possible geometric shapes are made.

For the linear option, select tiles of 2 or 3 colors. Lay in the basic way, alternating color lines, which can be located both vertically and horizontally. The ornament, as a layout option, can be used in basic and diamond-shaped cladding. The pattern and color depend on the tastes of the owners.

How to correctly and accurately lay out tiles in the bathroom

To properly lay out the tiles in the bathroom, you need to make a plan on paper. To do this, take measurements of the room and transfer it to a sheet of paper to scale, carefully observing the proportions. Next, determine the size of the collection. The layout must begin from the central wall. The tiles are placed in such a way that there are no narrow stripes in the corners of the room.

Location rules:

  • Whole elements are placed on the surface, for example, 6 tiles are included, and a small gap of 10-15 cm remains;
  • One element is removed, leaving 5 pieces, which are placed in the center of the wall;
  • The cut elements must be placed in the corners.

In this option, the consumption tiles It will be a little more, but the result is worth it. The optimal layout of the tiles is considered to be from the level of the bathroom, this way you are guaranteed to get a beautiful cladding and there will be no narrow stripes above the sides. The procedure for laying tiles in a small bathroom is not complicated.

The cladding is carried out from the bathroom to the ceiling.

The first row must be started at a distance of 2 mm from the edge for further grouting. Next, rows are laid in the rest of the room. The last step is priming the floor and laying tiles on the floor. If the floor tiles are laid out diagonally, work begins from the corner of the room. In case of a large area, floor covering can be started from the middle of the room.

Original tile layout on the bathroom floor

To create a unique effect in the bathroom, you can use a combined flooring installation. Select the perimeter of the room more dark color, and in the middle apply the diagonal method. Combined options look very nice in large rooms.

In addition to the listed tile layouts, there are some other methods:

  1. Herringbone. This scheme is an imitation of parquet flooring. The lines of the Christmas tree do not run parallel to the walls of the room. Thin tiles laid at an angle expand the area of ​​the room.
  2. Diagonal laying with small inserts adds originality and chic to the room. It helps to hide the unevenness of the perimeter and visually refracts clear lines.
  3. Combined. There is a combination of the above methods.

Interesting tile layout

It is better to take bathroom tiles from one manufacturer, this guarantees similarity and the same thickness of the elements. Before laying out the cladding, you need to think about color scheme. Classic option is considered to be a dark bottom, a light top, separated by a decorative border. The advantage is ease of installation and visual extension premises.

A fashionable trend is to highlight significant elements with the help of a color stripe, when it starts on the wall and continues on the floor. This design makes the ceilings higher. You can combine stripes with 3 colors, adding height to the room. This design will make the room narrower. If you alternate horizontal and vertical lines, this effect can be avoided.

The arrangement of different colors gives a contrasting effect. You can highlight the bathroom with tiles of one color, and the opposite walls and adjacent areas with different ones. This layout will highlight the bathing area and the main room.

A bathroom with a splash effect looks stylish. The main background is covered with plain Martinique tiles, and several colored elements, similar to large drops, are randomly added. Such design will suit for large rooms. A kaleidoscope made of multi-colored 20x20 cm tiles stands out in an original and random way. This solution is suitable for lovers of bright and cheerful ideas. A cheerful environment will charge you with positive energy. Recently, it has been fashionable to use pictures with a 3D effect, which can be placed both on the wall and on the floor, creating magnificent effects and influencing the visual perception of the room.

Beautiful tile layout (video)

Choosing a tile design today is not difficult. Examples of collections are displayed in special stands of construction stores. A rich assortment and different types of ceramic tiles allow you to realize the most creative ideas.

By doing finishing works In the bathroom you can use a variety of finishing options, but, of course, the most practical of them was and remains tiling. The rather high cost of the tiles is compensated by the long service life of the coating. And if you want to save on repairs, it’s worth mastering such an activity as Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.

It is generally accepted that laying tiles is a very hard work, so not everyone House master undertakes its implementation. In fact, there is nothing particularly difficult in masonry technology; the main component of success is careful preparation and constant monitoring of the correct placement of the tiles.

Where should you start finishing?

You should start working by taking measurements. You will need to arm yourself with a tape measure and measure:

  • The width of the walls.
  • Their height.
  • The width and height of the door (as well as the window, if any).

The results obtained will be useful for calculating the amount of required materials.

Choosing tiles for the bathroom

When purchasing a material, you need to pay attention not only to its appearance(although this is certainly important point), but also on its quality.

Criteria for good quality tiles

High-quality material has the following characteristics:

  • The corners are straight and clear.
  • The painting has no defects in the form of spots or streaks.


  • The glaze (the outer coating of glossy tiles) is dense, without visible pores.
  • The surface is perfectly flat.

Advice! To check whether the selected tile is actually flat, you should fold two pieces with the front side inward. If it is of high quality, there will not be the slightest gap at the joint.

Purpose of the tile

When purchasing tiles, you must pay attention to their purpose. The fact is that tiles intended for wall cladding are not particularly durable, so they cannot be used as floor tiles.

There are also on sale universal species tiles that can be used both for wall decoration and for laying on the floor. However, like all other materials that combine two-in-one functions, they are less durable than specially designed materials.

Advice! The best option floor tiles - clinker or porcelain stoneware. These materials are strong, abrasion-resistant, and durable.

Preparing to lay tiles

In order to complete the repair as quickly as possible, you first need to be well prepared for it.


Required tools and materials

To tidy the walls and floors in the bathroom you will need to have on hand:

  • Facing materials in sufficient quantities - tiles for floors, walls, friezes, borders, decorative elements.

Advice! When purchasing tiles, you must definitely take the material in reserve, since some of the tiles may be damaged as a result of damage or a carelessly made cut. Using simple ways For calculations, it is enough to purchase material 5% more than the calculated amount. When using more complex layout options, for example, diagonal, the amount of material must be increased by 10% of the calculated one.

  • Tile adhesive in the form of a dry mixture.
  • Mounting crosses. These are special parts made of plastic, designed to form tile joints of equal width.
  • The grouting composition is fugue. This material is necessary for grouting joints on a tiled surface.

In addition, you will need to prepare a set of tools:

  • To mark and control the correct placement of the tiles, you will need a pencil, tape measure, plumb line and level.
  • For cooking adhesive composition You will need a container and a drill with a stirring attachment. In addition, for the drill you will need to purchase a special attachment for drilling holes in the tiles.


  • For cutting you will need special tool– tile cutter and metal ruler.
  • To work with adhesive and grout, you need to get a metal spatula with a serrated edge and a rubber spatula.

Surface preparation

It must be said that what the finished finish will look like depends 70% on how well the surfaces are prepared. The preparation of walls and floors can be divided into several stages:

  • Cleaning. If the bathroom tiles are laid in a new building, then cleaning the surfaces involves removing dust. If the renovation is carried out in a building that is already in use, then the old finishing will need to be removed. The hardest part is removing paint from walls and floors or knocking off old finishes. To carry out this work you have to resort to the help of a hammer and chisel.
  • Leveling surfaces. Most often, the walls and floors in the premises are initially uneven, so before proceeding with further finishing, you will have to spend time leveling them. To do this, the protrusions are removed and the recesses are sealed. If the wall does not have significant differences in height, then it is enough to putty it with the starting composition. If there are more serious irregularities, plaster solutions based on cement and sand are used. To level the floor, most often you have to make a new screed.

Advice! To level the walls, you can cover them with plasterboard; for the bathroom, of course, you should use a moisture-resistant version of the material.

Priming and waterproofing

Since in most cases, the tiles are planned to be glued to porous surfaces (concrete, plaster mortar, drywall, etc.), mandatory preparatory event is the application of primer and waterproofing.


Tiling bathroom walls and floors

It is better to start cladding with finishing the walls. Of course, you can put it on the floor first, but if the master accidentally drops a heavy tool while working with wall tiles, it may break. On the other hand, if you first make the floor, then when covering the walls you can focus on the flat surface of the new floor covering. So the choice of the order of work is up to the master.

Wall covering

You should start working by clarifying the layout plan and marking:

  • By applying the tiles to the wall (without glue), find out how many rows of whole tiles fit on the wall in height. They start measuring from the top point, that is, from the ceiling. In this case, the layer of cut tiles will be at the bottom and will be hardly noticeable.
  • Mark the level of location of the first row of tiles from the floor. The tile level points (top and bottom edges) are transferred to the walls using a level. It is convenient to mark lines using the beating method using a cord with pigment.
  • Now you need to outline the location of the horizontal row and determine where the cut tiles will be located. To do this, lay dry tiles, not greased with glue, along the wall. To achieve a symmetrical appearance of the surface, it is recommended to choose a laying option so that the corners have tiles cut to the same width.
  • It is strictly not recommended to choose a layout option in which you will need to stick a very narrow piece (2-3 cm) in one of the corners. Firstly, this solution does not look very nice, and secondly, it is quite difficult to cut such a narrow strip, it cracks and the number of defects increases. In this case, it is better to cut the first tile to the required width, and place a whole one at the end of the row.


  • How to cut tiles so that the cut comes out even? First, it is recommended to moisten the back side of the tile, then draw along the previously marked line with a tile cutter. To ensure an even cut, guide the tool along a metal ruler placed along the cutting line. Next, place it on the edge of the table so that the cutting line is on its edge. With one hand they hold a part of the tile lying on the table, with the other they gently press on the edge that is hanging. It should break along the cut line.
  • When marking, you should strictly ensure that the seam between the tiles does not fall at the junction of the cement slabs.
  • It is recommended to lay the tiles from the very bottom row, that is, from the floor or from the side of the bathtub, if the space behind the bathtub will not be tiled.
  • At the start of installation, it is recommended to level wooden slats, on which the first row of tiles will rest. After the glue has dried, the slats will need to be removed.
  • To constantly monitor the correct placement of the tiles, it is recommended to apply control lines strictly horizontally and vertically on the walls with a marker in advance. Such lines will be very helpful in your work.
  • The adhesive solution prepared according to the instructions is applied with a spatula to a small section of the wall (approximately 0.5 square meter). There is no point in applying glue to large areas, since it dries quickly and loses its properties.
  • Place the tile on the area coated with glue; if it does not fit in place, it should be knocked down with a rubber hammer.
  • To achieve the same distance between the tiles in the rows, mounting crosses are installed between them. Then, after the glue has dried slightly, the crosses will need to be removed.


Floor covering

This part of the work is somewhat simpler, if only because the floor area is smaller than the wall area, and floor tiles are usually larger in size. However, the last statement is not always true; some prefer to use small floor tiles for laying out various patterns:

  • It is recommended to start facing from the far corner. When viewed from the entrance to the room.
  • Applying glue and laying tiles is done in the same way as when tiling walls. The degree of evenness of the floor should be adjusted by level.
  • The floor tiles should form a right angle at the intersection with the wall tiles. It is recommended to treat the joint with sealant.

Grouting tile joints in the bathroom

The last stage of cladding is grouting the joints. This operation should be started only after the tile adhesive has dried thoroughly. Grouting compounds are applied using a soft rubber spatula, movements should be directed along the diagonal of the wall.

After the grout has dried, its excess is removed with a wet sponge. It is very important not to run the sponge parallel to the seams, as this can lead to the grout being washed out of them.

It is quite possible to carry out the facing work yourself. Beginners in the tiling business should initially choose the simplest tile layout schemes and do not forget to constantly monitor the correct location of the laid tiles.

Considering high cost quality material it is necessary to make accurate calculations of the flow rate for a given area. In order to determine how many borders and decorative inserts will be required, you need to know the answers to some questions in advance. You must decide in what color scheme and style the masonry will be done. What type of installation will be used.

What are the types of tile laying?

The type of masonry varies depending on the surface. So, different approaches are used for floors and walls. The floor is most often laid using the simple classical method. It's called seam to seam. If you want to create original patterns, you can use decorative masonry, for example, staggered or diagonally.

These types are more suitable for original tiles with a pattern or imitation parquet. Diagonal laying, in turn, is divided into simple, where the angle is 45 degrees and checkerboard.

The latter looks advantageous when alternating colors.

Several types of masonry are also used for walls

  1. The first is a classic straight line. In this case, the tiles are laid parallel to the floor covering. If there are borders, they can alternate with rows of wide tiles.
  2. The second option is diagonal. It is no different from the method of laying floor tiles.
  3. Checkerboard laying is also allowed for walls. It can be performed horizontally or with a diagonal offset.

It is necessary to decide on the type of installation and style of the room before purchasing materials. The tile directly depends on this. The presence of borders, color inserts, and diagonal solutions increase the overall consumption.

How is the calculation made?

As with any type of work, counting tiles has its own general rules. They are used to calculate the volume of materials in any room, no matter whether it is for tiles.

  1. Take measurements of all walls and floors where masonry will be done.
  2. On the wall where there are openings or where a bathtub is to be installed (), subtract their size.
  3. Find out the sizes of the tiles you will buy. It is different for flooring and walls. Standard sizes are 30x30, 40x40; for walls, rectangular tiles with sides of 20x30 or 25x33 centimeters can be offered.
  4. Calculate the resulting area in . And determine how many slabs in pieces you need.

Add 10% to the resulting value. This figure will cover possible defects and material that will require cutting. Materials of different colors are calculated separately. It is determined in advance at what height the transitions will be. To automate the process, you can use online calculators.

Calculation example for floor and wall tiles

The easiest way to understand these rules is by calculation. Let's say the floor width is 1.5 meters, the length is 1.7 meters. The tiles used are square 33 cm side. The entire surface is laid with a single-color material. In order to determine how many slabs are needed in width, divide 1.5 by 0.33. The result will be 4.5 - the number of slabs that will fit in width. This figure needs to be rounded up and a reserve of several pieces added. A similar calculation is made for length. It will be 6 slabs. After this, we multiply 5 by and we get that the floor will require 30 pieces + a margin of 10%.

In the case of calculating tiles for walls, similar calculations are made. For each wall, the amount of plastic in height and width is determined separately. The resulting number is multiplied. If there is a division of tiles by color, then you can decide in advance how many rows in height will be occupied by one shade and how many by another. Then the final figure will be divided by 2.

Don't forget to take into account. It reduces the number of tiles used. A similar rule applies to the bathroom if there are no tiles behind it.

At the end of the calculations, it is necessary to determine the quantity. It is determined based on the 12 perimeter of the tile divided by the area and multiplied by the thickness. The resulting value is multiplied by the coefficient and the width of the seam. The result indicates the mass of grout per 1 square meter. surface meter.

Tile - the most suitable finishing material for bathrooms. With the help of tiles you can turn the most fantastic ideas into reality to create a unique color range walls and floor. He endures high humidity and calmly tolerates steam, splashes of water and temperature fluctuations. The varied assortment presented by various manufacturers pleases with the variety of colors and textures.

Despite the wide distribution of various types of tile laying, the simplest is still the usual flat one.

Bathroom design ideas are plentiful and everyone can create their own unique look or seek the help of an experienced designer to make their dreams come true.

For beginning craftsmen decorative finishing bathrooms there are instructions recommending starting work with traditional types masonry wall tiles. All complex methods associated with laying small tiles, using complex circuits tiles that require multiple cuttings of tiles should be entrusted to craftsmen with practical experience.

Before you begin laying tiles, you should carefully prepare for this process.

Preparatory work

First you need to think about the ideas, color and pattern of the masonry. Traditional scheme Bathroom tile installations consisting of two different colors separated by a border do not always look good in such spaces.

When choosing a color range for masonry tiles, choose a color that will relax and soothe. Bright red shades put pressure on the subconscious and irritate.

When thinking over the masonry scheme in the bathroom, you need to correctly place accents that will help visually correct all the shortcomings of the room.

To optically increase the width of the bathroom, choose tiles small size. The color of the tiles in this case will be cool shades.

Blue, silver, gray-turquoise tones of tiles are suitable for this purpose. If you want to visually increase the height of the ceilings, use directional laying of vertical stripes of paint for this purpose.

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Create a schema

Instructions for laying tiles recommend creating a diagram of the room on paper, indicating on it accents and decorative details as they would look without furniture and plumbing. The floor plan should show the perimeter of the floor, the height of the walls, doors, the presence of ledges, and niches. It marks the location, shape and size of the plumbing fixtures. The plan indicates the location of sockets, outlets of pipes, taps and other equipment.

Before creating a diagram, it is necessary to take measurements from high accuracy. Having accurate data on the length and width, you can determine the location of the decorative parts, the likelihood of cutting, the size and area of ​​gluing of the cut tiles. All cut elements are planned in places that are usually covered with furniture and placed in corners away from view.

A tile layout plan is drawn on a separate sheet. It is colored with colored pencils, creating color schemes laying tiles.

Having fully clarified all the details of the arrangement of the material in theory, they begin practical work.

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Laying tiles

Options for laying tiles depend on the selected schemes. Laying begins from the central wall, which is completely in sight. If the wall pattern is monochromatic, then work begins from the bottom rows; if the pattern is located in the center, then they first lay it out, making sure that it is in the middle of the composition, and then work with the periphery. To make the rows even, plastic crosses are used to help form even seams.

There are several common ones. Knowing the basic methods of laying tiles, you can come up with your own version and bring the idea to life by laying out any design from the tiles.

The easiest installation method for beginners is the “seam to seam” pattern. Laying tiles in this case involves the straight direction of the rows running parallel to the floor. The accuracy of directions is checked using a plumb line, and a triangle is used to check horizontal lines. Rectangular and square tiles are suitable for this method. Using this method of laying, you can lay out a border or ornament. This method is often used when making black and white masonry in the form of a chessboard.

If there is a pattern on the tile, then laying the tiles begins with it.

Laying tiles “in a bandage” is reminiscent of traditional brickwork. This is done using rectangular tiles. The method is simple and is often used for plain floors or walls. Contrasting colors in this type of masonry create the impression uneven surface. This method is good if the finishing material used has minor deviations in size that can be easily hidden.

Diagonal laying requires some skill in working with tiles. This method requires cutting when separating the tiles into pieces. This increases material consumption. To ensure that the placement of the tiles in the bathroom is even, the sides must be controlled. Thanks to such masonry, you can correct the curvature of wall lines and visually expand the space small room. The modular method involves using several colors of facing tiles to create the intended pattern.

When laying tiles in a modular manner, use tiles with multiple side sizes. First, the intended design is laid out without gluing, so that it can then be accurately reproduced on the wall or on the bathroom floor.

The linear option is used to create any lines. To do this, take two or more colors of tiles that have the same dimensions. The creation of lines, their size and appearance, depends only on the desires of the bathroom owner and the ideas that he wants to see on the walls of the bathroom.

The ornament is used for laying tiles in the bathroom, creating a geometric pattern in the form of a carpet with a beautiful colored border.

Knowing these techniques, you can lay out any drawing in the bathroom. To ensure that there is enough material, 15% of the area should be added to the calculated amount of tiles.

For different rooms and types of base (walls, floor, ceiling), the technology for laying tiles is largely similar. The only difference is in the compositions with which the tiles are fixed to the base, and in the methods of preparing the bases for installation.

Types of tiles

It is important to check the quality of the material before purchasing. Pay attention to wear and moisture resistance, and the degree of resistance to chemical attack.

Wear resistance

Ceramics are used both in the bathroom of a one-room apartment and for cladding the staircase of a high-rise building, therefore the degree of wear resistance for different types of coating should be different.


Photo 1 - Ceramic floor tiles Infinity Ceramic Elegance Classic

You can find out about the quality of the product by the PEI marking: the most unprotected is PEI I, and the most durable is PEI V.

Each class determines the room in which the coating can be used:

Marking Application

It is used to designate decorative wall tiles (we do not recommend laying these on the floor in the hallway, only on the walls or ceiling in the toilet; it is also suitable, for example, for laying on an apron or fireplace).

For floor installation(provided that they walk on the floor in soft shoes), including placing them on the balcony.

For residential premises (cannot be placed on stairs or steps, in the hallway or corridor), also suitable for small offices.

Designed for covering the surface of any type of residential premises, floors of public places with low intensity of people's movement (it does not reach street durability, but for garden path suitable for a dacha).

Tiles with the highest wear resistance, suitable for public spaces with high levels of human traffic (placed on steps in public buildings, suitable for flooring in a garage, in a swimming pool or bathhouse, in catering establishments).

Moisture resistance


Photo 2 - Vinyl adhesive PVC Grabo (Grabo) PlankIT Baelish

According to water absorption characteristics, materials are divided into 8 groups:

  1. Absorption of no more than 3% moisture. It can be used to cover the apron in the kitchen of a large restaurant, children's camp or a food factory.
  2. Until 6 %. Suitable for cladding not only interior spaces, but also external - from the street. It practically does not absorb moisture, and therefore in winter it does not crack in the cold: it can be easily laid on the porch, or laid on asphalt for a path to a house/public institution (make sure that the material not only does not crack in the cold, but also does not slid).
  3. To 10 %. Same characteristics as group 2.

Photo 3 - Wall

Groups from 4 to 8 can be installed indoors in any room except the bathroom and kitchen, since these are rooms with high level humidity.

Degree of chemical resistance

Variety

  • red marking - 1st grade;
  • blue marking - 2nd grade;
  • green marking - 3rd grade.

Photo 4 - Ceramic Gresan gr6 TACO ANTIGA VERDE (decorative insert 12×12)

Grade is an indicator of how many defective units a particular product package may contain. The edges of ceramic tiles of 3 or even 2 grades may be crooked. If the tile is printed (a clear geometric pattern), you only need to take 1 grade. Even tiles with a seam are problematic to lay due to uneven edges.

IMPORTANT! Glossy tiles are a slippery surface. For floor coverings, it is better to choose rough ceramic tiles.

The packaging label contains the following designations:


Photo 5 - Pictograms on packaging

The tile can be of this type:

Model Description

Unglazed. Extrusion method - forcing molten material through a mold.

Glazed with double firing.

For floor coverings. Manufacturing method: pressing.

For wall coverings. Single firing. The method of manufacture is pressing.

Unglazed/glazed on a multi-colored surface. Manufacturing method - extrusion.

Manufacturing method: pressing.

Pigmented unglazed on a white or colored mass.

There are especially durable types for finishing floor coverings - these are varieties of cast iron, vinyl and acid-resistant tiles, as well as quartz vinyl.


Photo 6 - Particularly durable types: a - vinyl, b - quartz vinyl, c - acid-resistant, d - cast iron

You can choose carpet tiles for the floor - they are very easy to lay yourself.

Styling tools

You will need:

  • tile cutter;
  • building level (to determine the curvature of the surface and control the level of cladding);
  • plastic/metal corners;
  • smooth spatula (used for preliminary leveling of the surface);
  • comb spatula (they apply the fastening compound);
  • rubber spatula with teeth (for applying grout between tiles);
  • drill with special nozzles(for mixing fastening mixtures);
  • plastic crosses (for even laying out);
  • primer;
  • waterproofing material;
  • guides and laser for styling;
  • glue and sand-cement mixture;
  • mastic (applied to the primer);
  • metal mesh (if the walls of the room are wooden);
  • grout for seams.

Photo 7 - Atlas Concorde Marvel Silver Net Mosaic

What is important to know before buying tools?

  • The laser level is easier to use: there is no need to set additional beacons - the laser sets the laying direction.
  • The tile cutter is more practical and precise than the nail and hammer method. .
  • Wedges may come in handy if you plan to level the floor before laying cement screed, and it is better to select plastic crosses depending on the size of the tile - the diameter of the cross will determine the width of the seam.

IMPORTANT! If you doubt your abilities or the final result, a laying specialist will cost on average 290-860 rubles/m², depending on the method of laying the tiles, as well as the total amount of work. Professional “help” provided in a timely manner can ultimately cost less than fixing the defect.


Photo 8 - Ceramic model Cerasarda Parentesi Quadra Parentesi B Ottanio

Tile laying methods

  • Laying without a seam (seam to seam). Seamless installation is performed without crosses: the material is joined as accurately as possible. The size of the seams in this option is minimal. This method is suitable for grade 1: the surface defect can no longer be hidden.
  • Staggered laying. The material is laid only horizontally. The principle of laying is that the center of the next row should be located exactly above the seam - the junction of two tiles from the previous row.
  • Laying diagonally. They only put square tiles, starting in the corners of the room, in which the first tile is placed, divided into equal triangles. A triangle driven to the wall allows you to lay out the material evenly at an angle of 45°.

You can also lay the material in a checkerboard pattern, in a diamond pattern, use materials of a non-standard rectangular shape, create interesting patterns using different sizes, and lay tiles with inserts.


Photo 9 - (33.3×33.3)

IMPORTANT! Consumption for curly and any decorative way the installation will be much greater than with seamless installation, so the material should be purchased with a reserve.

Much in the visual perception of a room will depend not only on the design, but also on the size: laying large-format tiles is suitable for road and sidewalk cladding, and for laying on floors in public spaces. Diagonal laying requires 15% more material due to the adjustment of the tiles to the angle of inclination.

Layout diagram:


Preparation for installation

  • P preparing walls and floors

Check the perpendicularity of the surface of the walls and floor. To do this, use a plumb line or a building level. The gap should be no more than 2 mm per meter of height, otherwise the material will lie crooked. To level the floor you can use cement-sand mortar(poured for waterproofing).


Photo 11 -

The material can be laid on the screed no earlier than after 45 days - this is enough for the concrete to completely harden.

After drying, a layer of primer is applied to the concrete (on cement mortar add mastic to improve adhesion). If the material is laid on concrete, the screed must harden completely: this will protect the surface from rotting and moisture release.

  • Checking walls and floors for strength

Photo 12 - AZORI Fusion mint

The wall/ceiling/floor must be clean, dry, level, primed and covered with mastic.

  • Selection of layout and material calculation

Don’t rush to use a spatula and glue: draw a diagram of the installation in the room on paper on a smaller scale, observing the proportions of all elements.

Basic mistakes on preparatory stage− incorrectly chosen location of whole tiles and cut tiles (when not a whole tile, but a part of it is located in a visible place), as well as incorrect measurement of the curvature of the walls/floor.


Photo 13 - for walls

IMPORTANT! The visual center of the room does not always coincide with the center of the room's floor area. Options for the location of the central tile may vary due to the special furnishings of the room or the position of the pattern.

Laying technology: general rules


Step 1 - Prepare the solution
  • The material must not be soaked before installation.
  • Use the instructions on the packaging from the manufacturer: how to prepare the mixture or fastening solution, where to start preparing the base or materials and how to finish it, what materials to use.


Step 4 - Stir the solution, add water
  • Do not prepare a bucket of glue mixture at one time. The mixtures dry quickly, and you risk not having time to use all the prepared fastening composition. To begin with, a mixture of 1-1.5 m² will be enough.
  • We do not recommend attaching the material to liquid nails in damp rooms or outdoors with your own hands.



Step 7 - Laying the tiles on the wall
  • The height of the trowel teeth should correspond to the width of the tile.
  • The mixture is applied with a trowel and leveled with a notched trowel.
  • Do not apply too much mixture.


Step 9 - Excess solution must be washed off with a damp cloth before it hardens
Step 10 - The seams should dry well
  • To ensure that the tiles lie flat, follow the beacons (guides or stretch marks of the red thread) and place plastic crosses at the intersection of four tiles.
  • You can also work with the SVP (tile leveling system) - wedges and clamps allow you to lay even very large types of tiles (up to 45x45 cm) as level as possible.

How does SVP work?

Constantly check the horizontal/vertical position of the installation with a level and level the defects (before installation, the base must be leveled).

The tile, covered on the back with the mixture, is placed on the floor according to the markings, lightly pressed and tapped with a rubber-headed hammer. Excess mixture can be removed by lifting the tiles from the floor immediately after fixing. Remove the mixture with a spatula.


Photo 14 - Decor Mainzu Ceramica Legno Laton

Seams must be cleaned immediately.

You cannot walk on the laid tiles, even if they seem stable outwardly. Otherwise, kinks and distortions are possible.

After cleaning the seams and hardening of the adhesive mixture, the seams are filled with grout. Excess from the surface can be removed with a damp, lint-free cloth. The grout will take another day to dry.

IMPORTANT! Correct laying of the wall - from bottom to top, the reverse order of execution - from top to bottom - is technologically unacceptable, even if we're talking about about the use of very resistant mixtures and about fixing plinth tiles.


Photo 15 - Ceramic Belani Symphony G Blue

Laying tiles on drywall and other types of surfaces: base preparation technology

For installation on drywall:

  • elastic tile adhesive is required;
  • the joints of the sheets are puttied;
  • The surface of the gypsum board is puttied.

Photo 16 -

Since the gypsum board sheet may move after priming, the guides must be installed in increments of 40 cm - no more (with a sheet thickness of 12 mm). If the sheet of drywall is thinner, the profile is placed even wider.

IMPORTANT! When purchasing drywall, pay attention to its color. Green is waterproof drywall for baths or kitchens.

Drywall on brick can be fixed not only with guides, but also with Perfix gypsum mortar.

Methods for preparing other surfaces

  • on GVL, as well as on GVLV, the material is fixed with special adhesive mixtures and mastics (Knauf or Kreps);
  • the material can be laid on plaster after thorough priming of the wall/ceiling surface;
  • You can put it on foam plastic and foam blocks if the material was initially securely fixed to the base of the walls/floor/ceiling of the house, and also covered with a special mesh, which improves adhesion with glue (permissible for tiling works in a wooden house or on a loggia in any other type of housing);

Photo 17 - VITEL GERBERA BASE Decor YL 27.5x40 Atem
  • Ceramic tiles can be laid on OSB if a layer of waterproofing (MIRA) is applied to the OSB, and the tiles are secured with elastic adhesive from the same manufacturer (tiles fixed to OSB can last more than 10 years if the base under the slab is strong and reliable);
  • on the DSP ( cement bonded particle board) can be laid in the standard way if the slabs are well secured;
  • glued to plywood with a special two-component glue, which also serves as a waterproofing agent;
  • We do not recommend installing it on chipboard, because... this base is too susceptible to changes in humidity levels and temperature fluctuations - there is a risk of surface deformation;
  • To lay it on the ground in the yard, a layer of plant soil is removed, a layer of roofing felt is laid over the ground, the surface is prepared with sand, and tiles are laid on top of the sand layer.

Photo 18 - Lugana YL 40x40 Atem

More details about methods for preparing bases are described in SNiP 3.04.01-87 and SNiP 2.03.13-88.

Laying tiles in the kitchen

In the kitchen, tiles are most often used for flooring and finishing. kitchen apron. A quick cladding can be made with ceramic mosaic (up to 10x10 cm), placing it on a frame (often a silicone or fiber mesh). An apron with stone or brick tiles looks impressive.

A bright, eco-friendly option for finishing an apron is lining with cork. This durable, natural and lightweight coating is not afraid of moisture and sun rays. Due to its lightness, it can be used on plasterboard walls: it will not weigh down the structure and will protect the plasterboard sheets from moisture.


Photo 19 - Sip fresh air in the interior of the kitchen from the Studio “Cozy Apartment”
Photo 20 - Metlakh tiles in the interior from Liza Rachevskaya Interiors Design bureau DAO decor Busby Cabinets

Laying tiles on the wall

The technology differs from laying floor or ceiling tiles only in the required direction of movement: you need to start from the bottom and move gradually upward.

On the wall, due to the frequent curvature of the surface, the material is laid out not from the floor, but with an indentation of 30-40 cm. At this height, after checking the horizontal using a level, attach the rail, which will serve as the basis for the first row. Wedges placed under the first row for horizontal alignment are not used here.


Photo 24 - Unexpected interior toilet for guests from Zhenya Zhdanova Photo 27 - Porcelain tiles in the hallway decoration from

Laying PVC tiles

The essence of the work is to apply glue to the back side of the PVC plate and glue it to the floor, rolling the material over the surface with a heavy rubber roller.

Installation of tactile tiles (PVC) can be carried out both indoors and outdoors: the coating and glue have increased resistance to moisture, temperature fluctuations and mechanical loads.


Photo 29 - Bright modern kitchen interior from QT INTERIOR DESIGN Design by Anton Sukharev studio “Sukharevdesign”
Photo 31 - Bathroom interior in loft style from