What does a quince tree look like when it blooms? Chaenomeles (Japanese quince) is an ideal plant for the lazy summer resident. Planting in open ground

Common quince (Cydonia), or oblong quince - this woody plant belongs to a monotypic genus, which is a representative of the rose family. IN wild conditions this plant is found in Transcaucasia, Central Asia, in the Caucasus, and also in temperate regions of Southern and Central Europe and Asia. Moreover, this plant prefers to grow in clearings, forest edges and clearings, in the lower belt of mountains, as well as along the banks of streams and rivers. Such a tree needs moist, loose, heavy loamy, black soil, nutritious sandy or red soil.

Quince is cultivated in Australia, South Africa and Oceania, which have hot climates, as well as in Northern and South America. This tree is also grown in Norway and Scotland, where the climate is quite cool. Quince has been known to man for more than 4 thousand years. This fruit was awarded to Aphrodite, who defeated other contenders in a dispute about beauty, while it was believed that the quince was a type of apple.

Quince is a deciduous shrub or tree. The height of such a plant can vary from 1.5 to 5 meters. The branches rise up obliquely. The thin and smooth bark is scaly. The color of the trunk and old branches of quince is dark brown-red or dark gray. Young branches are covered with fleecy brown-gray bark. Felt-pubescent stems have a greenish-gray color. Alternately arranged entire leaf blades are ovoid or oval in shape, usually broadly elliptical, but sometimes rounded. Their front surface is bare dark green, and the back surface has a bluish color due to the fact that it is covered with felt pubescence. The foliage is 5–12 centimeters long and 7.5 centimeters wide, with two-centimeter petioles. As a rule, the flowers are solitary, regular in shape, with pubescence on the surface of the pedicels. Flowering begins in May or June. The fruit is a false fleecy apple, the shape of which is pear-shaped or round, and the color is dark yellow or lemon. Inside the fruit there are 5 multi-seeded nests. Fruit wild plants in diameter they reach 25–35 mm, while in cultivated forms their diameter can reach up to 15 centimeters. The fragrant pulp of the fruit is low-juiced and tough; it has a tart, astringent and slightly sweet taste. Fruit ripening is observed in September and October. The average lifespan of such a plant is about 60 years; it begins to bear fruit at 3–4 years of age, and active fruiting continues from 30 to 50 years.

This plant is related to many crops grown in the garden, namely, pear, cherry plum, hawthorn, almond, rowan, apple tree, plum, medlar, rose hip, serviceberry, chokeberry and others popular among gardeners cultivated plants. You can make jelly, compote, jam, marmalade, drinks from quince fruits; they are also used as a seasoning for meat dishes. In alternative medicine, quince has also found its place; it is used in the treatment of colitis, uterine bleeding, constipation, flatulence, respiratory diseases and in the treatment of the gastrointestinal tract. During flowering, the plant looks very impressive; therefore, it is used to decorate public parks, gardens and squares.

What time to plant

Such a drought-resistant and heat-loving plant as quince can withstand even a four-week flood, so it can be planted in areas where groundwater lie shallow. Best suited for planting open place, located on the south side. Quince can be grown in almost any soil, but the best fruiting is observed when cultivated on well-loosened heavy soil. If you plant it in light sandy loam soil, it will begin to bear fruit earlier, but the harvests will not be as rich, and the plant itself will not live very long. Planting a seedling in open ground should be done during the dormant period, namely, in autumn and spring.

Autumn planting

If you purchase annual seedlings, you can take plants with both open and closed root systems. But if the seedlings are older, then preference should be given to those that have open system roots, since you can see it clearly. Remember that in quince growing in open soil, the root system, as a rule, occupies a larger area than the projection of the crown; therefore, a distance of at least 5 meters must be maintained between the planted seedling and any other tree or building.

If it is planned to plant quinces in open soil in the fall, then the hole should be prepared in the spring. To do this, you need to dig up the soil to the depth of a spade bayonet, adding 20 grams of potassium salt and 50 grams of superphosphate for every 1 square meter. The dug up and fertilized soil needs to be watered a little. Before planting the plant, you need to dig a planting hole, the depth of which should be 0.4 m and the diameter 0.45–0.9 m. Remember that the diameter of the hole directly depends on the size of the seedling’s root system. First, you need to drive a peg in the center of the hole to which the seedling will be tied. At its bottom you need to lay a layer of clay. Now, at 1/3 of the remaining depth, the hole must be filled with nutritious soil, which is combined with 150 grams of superphosphate and 50 grams wood ash. When the hole is ready, you need to place the seedling in it. The plant's root system is carefully straightened, and the hole is filled with soil, which needs to be compacted a little. The planted quince needs good watering, while at least 20 liters of water are taken per bush. After the liquid is completely absorbed into the soil, the plant should be tied to a peg, and then the surface of the trunk circle is mulched with a thick layer of peat or humus.

Spring planting

In spring, seedlings are planted in open soil in the same way as in autumn. However, it should be noted that digging and fertilizing the soil must be done in the autumn. Also, after planting, the tree trunk circle needs to be covered with a thinner layer of mulch compared to autumn planting, about 5 centimeters instead of 10 centimeters.

How to care in spring

In the first weeks of spring, before sap flow begins, the quince must be pruned for sanitary purposes, and all dried, diseased and injured branches must be cut out. If the tree is young, then at the same time it is given a formative pruning, and if it is old, it is given a rejuvenating pruning. As soon as the buds begin to open, the plant should be treated with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (3%). However, remember that such a substance can burn open buds. At approximately the same time, it is necessary to whitewash the base of the skeletal branches and the trunk, and lime is used for this. You also need to add complete mineral fertilizer to the soil.

Treatment of quince against sawflies, moths, aphids, moths, leaf rollers and powdery mildew should be carried out on the pink bud, for this use Fastk's solution (3 milligrams of substance per 1 bucket of water) or another means of similar action.

Before the plant blooms, as well as after flowering, the quince will need to be watered abundantly, and the water should be mixed with complex mineral fertilizer.

1.5 weeks after the plant has flowered, it is necessary to treat the plant in order to prevent it from leaf-eating pests, sawflies, fruit rot and scab, for this purpose Topaz or other preparations of similar action are used.

How to care in summer

In June, the bush should be treated against lacewings, moths, codling moths, aphids, leaf rollers, using Sonet's solution (6 to 8 milligrams of the substance per 1 bucket of water). Further treatments during the season are carried out only if necessary.

This plant both in spring and in summer time needs timely weeding and loosening of the soil surface both in the row spacing and in the tree trunk circle. To reduce the amount of weeding and loosening, it is necessary to cover the tree trunk with a layer of mulch. In July it should be fed with complete mineral fertilizer.

In August and September, quince fruits ripen. It should be remembered that 4 weeks before harvesting, you must stop any treatment of the plant against diseases and pests.

How to care for autumn

The harvest takes place from the last days of September to the end of November. Then the quince needs to be sprayed with a urea solution (5%) to protect it from scab. In autumn, so-called moisture-recharging irrigation is performed. When all the leaves have fallen off, the plant will begin a dormant period. When this happens, it will be necessary to carry out rejuvenating, thinning and sanitary pruning. Preparing the tree for wintering should begin in November.

Quince needs systematic watering, which should be 4 or 5 per season. Young seedlings need more frequent watering. A tree that is already bearing fruit should be watered for the first time only before it blooms, especially if the spring has been dry. The second time you need to water the quince when it blooms, the third time when the ovaries fall off, the fourth time when the shoots begin to grow, the fifth time when the formed fruits begin to actively grow.

Young plants should stop watering in the last days of August, and older plants - in the first days of September. When watering, the soil should be saturated to the depth of the roots, namely 0.8–1 meter. On 1 young plant 40 buckets of water should be used for one watering, and 80 buckets for 1 adult. This plant can withstand both prolonged drought and prolonged flooding. However, in order to get a rich harvest of excellent quality, neither one nor the other should be allowed, and the plants must be watered promptly and correctly.

Feeding quince

A newly planted quince should not be fed for 1 year, because for this time the nutrients that were added to the soil during planting will be enough for it. Organic fertilizers(humus and compost) should be added to the soil no more than once every 2 years. At the same time, quince is fed with mineral fertilizers 3 times per season, namely: in spring, summer and autumn.

In spring, nitrogen fertilizer should be scattered over the surface of the tree trunk. When the tree fades, it needs to be watered with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (200 to 300 grams of substance per 1 bucket of water). In August, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be added to the soil, with 30 to 40 grams of the substance taken per 1 square meter. In spring and autumn, it is imperative to cover the surface of the tree trunk circle with mulch (compost or peat), and the layer thickness should be at least 50 mm.

Quince is not frost-resistant because its root system is located horizontally at not too great a depth, so it can easily freeze. When preparing a plant for wintering, it is necessary to cover the surface of the trunk circle, as well as the bottom of the trunk, with dried foliage or humus. After the snow falls, a snowdrift should be placed under the quince, which will allow the plant to survive the winter normally. If it is grown in a region with frosty winters, then it is also recommended to insulate it by wrapping it with spunbond or lutrasil, then it should be tied with spruce branches.

What time is pruning done?

The main pruning of quince is carried out in the spring before sap flow begins. All dried and diseased branches that are destroyed should be pruned. If the plant is old, then it needs rejuvenating and thinning pruning. Quince requires regular formative pruning up to the age of five. In August, the ends of fast-growing stems should be pinched. When all the leaves fall in the autumn and the dormant period begins, the quince will only need thinning and sanitary pruning.

Pruning rules

The crown of tall varieties is formed in the form of a bowl with open center, for this you will need 4 or 5 skeletal branches, the distance between which should be from 15 to 20 centimeters. In low-growing varieties, a sparsely tiered crown should be formed; for this you will need from 8 to 10 skeletal branches, with evenly spaced lateral branches. The height of the quince trunk should not exceed 0.4–0.5 meters. Further pruning of a quince is very similar to pruning an apple tree.

Spring pruning

After the seedling is planted in the spring, it will need pruning to a height of 0.5–0.6 m, with 7 or 8 buds remaining, from which the lower tier will be formed - 4 or 5 branches, the distance between which should be from 10 to 15 centimeters, and then the second tier of branches, located 0.3–0.4 m higher. When planting seedlings in autumn, pruning is done with the onset of spring. 12 months after the first pruning, in spring, the central branch of the plant (conductor) should be cut to a height of 0.2–0.3 m from the level of the skeletal branches to the outer bud. In this case, the annual growths located on the lower tier must be shortened to 0.5–0.6 m, as a result of which second-order branches will form. Side branches are not pruned, only those that contribute to the thickening of the center of the crown or compete with the conductor. The root shoots must be cut out. Before the quince begins to bear fruit, which happens at 3 or 4 years, as a rule, it already has a fully formed crown.

Autumn pruning

From the fifth year of growth, the plant only needs to maintain the shape of the crown and this is recommended to be done in the spring. In the autumn months, after the end of leaf fall, the tree will need pruning for sanitary purposes, in this case it is necessary to cut out all injured, diseased, dried out and thickening the crown branches, as well as those that grow in the wrong direction.

Quince propagation

Quince can be propagated by cuttings, root suckers, layering, grafting, and also by seed. In this case, the generative (seed) method of propagation is the simplest.

Propagation of quince by seeds

You will need ripe fruits that were picked no more than 4 weeks ago. From them you need to extract brown seeds, which are washed in lukewarm water. Spread them over the surface of dry paper or fabric and wait until completely dry. These seeds retain good germination for 6 months. It is best to sow before winter. However, this can be done in the spring, but in this case the seeds must first be stratified. To do this, immerse them in water for 5–6 hours, and then combine them with sand (1:3) and place them in the refrigerator on the vegetable shelf, where they will remain until sowing.

Before winter, sowing is done in open soil in October, and they are buried only 20–30 mm. After sowing, the surface of the plot should be covered with a layer of mulch (humus or peat). Between the rows you need to maintain a distance of 0.2 to 0.25 m, while more than 100 seeds cannot be sown per linear meter. After the seedlings appear in the spring, they should be thinned out twice. During the first thinning, maintain a distance of 10 centimeters between plants, and during the second - from 15 to 20 centimeters.

If the seeds were placed on the refrigerator shelf in February, then it is recommended to sow them in open soil in April. How to sow is described above. However, if the beginning of stratification occurs in December, then sowing should be done in the last days of February or the first days of March, while 2 or 3 seeds should be placed in 1 peat-humus pot at once, deepening them by 20–40 mm. Quince seedlings are grown like any other. When it becomes warm enough outside, you should start hardening the seedlings, after which they need to be planted in the ground without removing them from the pots. Before planting, the soil must be dug up using a spade, it is moistened and only then planted, while maintaining a distance of 10–15 centimeters between the bushes. The planted plants need to be watered, and the surface of the soil is sprinkled with a layer of mulch. When the plants have 2 real sheet plates Yes, they will need to be thinned out; this is done a second time after 20 days.

By the beginning of autumn, the height of the plants will reach approximately 0.4 m, and they can be planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction of quince by root suckers

Root suckers are root shoots that need to be cut out regularly. If you want to choose this method for propagating quince, then keep in mind that the grown tree will have a poorly developed root system and small fruits. But if you follow certain rules, then normal seedlings can be grown from the shoots. Select those basal shoots whose height is from 15 to 20 centimeters and whose thickness is from 0.5 centimeters. They should be well hilled so that the soil is closely adjacent to the stem. After 20 days they will need to be hilled again. In autumn, it is necessary to separate the root offspring from the mother bush, as well as plant it in a permanent place. In winter, the surface of the soil around it should be covered with a layer of humus or wood chips.

Quince propagation by layering

To propagate such a plant, horizontal or arcuate layering is used. How are these layers different? The fact is that the arcuate layer is pinned and covered with soil only middle part, and for a horizontal one, the entire stem must be placed in the groove, leaving only the top free; it is fixed in this position every 15 centimeters. Vertical shoots can grow from the lateral buds. When the height of such shoots is 0.15–0.2 m, they must be hilled up, half covered with soil. In the summer, provide the cuttings with timely watering and weeding, and when the leaf fall ends, they are cut off from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.

Quince propagation by cuttings

Green cuttings are harvested in June in the morning while it is cool outside. Each cutting should have 1 or 2 internodes and a centimeter-long heel. The bottom of the cutting should be treated with Kornevin, then it is planted at an angle in a substrate consisting of peat and sand (1:3). When planting, a distance of 5 to 7 centimeters should be maintained between cuttings. In a warm place (20 to 25 degrees), the cuttings will take root after about 4-6 weeks. Rooted cuttings should be planted in a permanent place.

Quince is also propagated by lignified cuttings, the length of which should be 0.25 m, and the lower cut should be made directly under the bud. For their rooting, use the same substrate as for green cuttings. The planted cuttings must be placed in a greenhouse.

Quince propagation by grafting

In order to graft a cultivated cutting of such a plant, you need to take hawthorn rootstock or quince seedlings grown from seeds. The best rootstocks will grow from varieties such as Angers quince and Provençal quince. Budding is carried out from early to mid-August, using annual rootstocks. But it should be taken into account that often it is quince that acts as a rootstock for other crops. In this regard, experts recommend choosing other methods listed above for its propagation. If you decide to propagate quince by grafting, then this procedure should be performed in exactly the same way as when grafting an apple tree.

Quince diseases

Quite common diseases of quince are: moniliosis (fruit rot), rust, brownish leaves, powdery mildew, ovary rotting, as well as gray mold fruits

A fungal disease such as moniliosis spreads in regions with a temperate climate in damp spring and from early to mid-summer. Fruits that are damaged are the first to become infected. mechanically, brown spots appear on their surface, which increase quite quickly. The pulp of the fruit loses its taste and becomes loose, as a result they fall off. However, some fruits remain on the branches but become blue and hard. To get rid of such a disease, you need to treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture, Rovral, Abiga Pik, copper sulfate, Teldor or another fungicidal preparation with a similar effect.

If a large number of round brown spots appear on the surface of the leaf blades, this indicates that the specimen is affected by brownish leaves. As the disease progresses, the leaf blades dry out and die prematurely. To get rid of such a disease, when the plant fades, it must be sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%). Remove fallen leaves from the area and destroy them.

If a pale red or whitish coating appears at the ends of young annual shoots, this means that the quince is affected powdery mildew. After some time, the plaque thickens and becomes a brown film, on the surface of which there are black dots (fruiting bodies of fungi). The development of stems stops, the leaf plates become deformed and the ovaries fall off. The plant begins to dry out at the growing points. To cure a quince when it has finished flowering, it must be sprayed with a fungicide; re-treatment is carried out after 15–20 days.

When a plant is infected with a fungal disease such as rust, brownish-orange tubercles form on the front surface of the leaf blades, while round or oval pustules appear on the back surface. After some time, the spots become stripes, and the leaves change their color to yellow and fly off ahead of time. To cure the plant, after the leaf plates open, spray it with a fungicide, and repeat the treatment after half a month.

Rotting of the ovaries

Quince can also be affected by rotting of the ovaries; this disease is also a fungal disease. You can tell that a plant is affected by the appearance of dark spots on the surface of the leaf blade, which eventually spread throughout the entire leaf. When the plant blooms, the disease affects the buds and flowers of the plant, and the ovaries die. Experts recommend that in order to prevent this disease, systematic sanitary pruning must be done, in which case all injured and diseased branches must be removed, and all dried fruits must be burned. During flowering, you need to spray the plant with a solution of Fundazol. Also this processing can be produced when the quince has finished flowering.

Gray rot

If brown spots (necrosis) appear on the surface of the foliage and stems and increase very quickly, this means that the plant is affected by gray rot. If it is observed on the street high humidity, then a fluffy coating appears on the surface of these spots. The causative agent of this kind of rot is distinguished by its omnivorous nature, and it also quickly spreads to neighboring plants. To cure an infected tree, you need to spray it with Oxychom, Topaz, Kuproxate or Champion.

However, if you properly care for the quince, following all the rules of agricultural technology, then it is unlikely to get sick. Basic rules of agricultural technology:

  1. The soil surface around the plant must be clean at all times.
  2. When all the fruits have been collected, the tree must be sprayed with a solution for preventive purposes. copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.
  3. The plant should be sprayed with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture in early spring, which will eliminate all pests and pathogenic microorganisms that hide in the winter. upper layer soil or into the quince bark.

Quince pests

Quince is highly resistant to various pests, and if it is healthy, then, as a rule, such insects do not settle on it. However, very rarely, codling moths, leaf-mining moths, fruit mites and apple aphids can settle on it.

Leaf-eating moth

Leaf-mining moth is the name given to all pests that mine the leaf blades of a tree. As a result, they die off, the quality of the crop deteriorates, and the number of fruits decreases. A weakened plant is unable to set buds, and it is often damaged by frost. The most common type of moth found on such a plant is the serpentine-dominant and round-dominant variety. To combat such pests, it is necessary to spray the plant with a solution of Fundazol (1%) or Dipterex (1.5%) after it has flowered. Also make sure that the surface of the barrel circle is clean.

Fruit mites

Red and brown fruit mites live on any fruit tree. The larvae of such insects contribute to the oppression of young stems and buds, as they suck the juice out of them. As a result, the garden begins to “cry” because juice oozes from the wounds. For prevention purposes, during leaf fall, the plant should be sprayed with a urea solution (7%).

Aphids can settle on any plant and cause significant harm to it. This pest sucks the juice from the young stems and leaf blades of the plant, which leads to their deformation and curling, they stop growing, and a black coating appears on their surface due to sooty fungus. Aphids are considered the main carrier of dangerous viral diseases, which have not yet been successfully treated. In order to exterminate aphids, it is enough to spray the quince with an insecticide. If desired, you can resort to folk remedies, for example, grind 1 piece of laundry soap on a grater and dissolve it in 10 liters of water; this solution is sprayed on both the front and back surfaces of the foliage. This product is remarkable because it does not harm quince.

codling moth

Even a walnut fruit cannot resist the apple moth; it easily gnaws through it. After the quince has finished flowering, the butterflies of this pest emerge from the ground. They are distinguished by their fertility, so in 1 season they are able to produce 2 or 3 generations. 1 caterpillar manages to harm several fruits throughout its life. To destroy this pest, it is recommended to use solutions of biological agents, so for 1 bucket of water take from 20 to 30 grams of Lepidocide, from 40 to 80 grams of Bitoxibacillin or from 30 to 50 grams of Dendrobacillin.

In order to avoid pest invasion, it is necessary to resort to preventive measures:

  1. Carry out timely weeding, and also remove carrion from the area.
  2. Cover the tree trunk circle with a layer of mulch (humus or peat).
  3. To prevent creeping pests from reaching the plant, you must resort to using trapping belts.
  4. In spring, be sure to perform sanitary pruning, and diseased stems and branches must be burned.
  5. At the beginning of spring and late autumn, you need to spray quince with a urea solution (7%) for preventive purposes.

Quince varieties with photos and names

Gardeners cultivate the following varieties of quince: ordinary or oblong quince and Japanese quince. Such varieties belong to the rose family, but they are representatives of different genera. Thus, Japanese quince is part of the Chaenomeles genus, and therefore its varieties will not be described in this article. Such a monotypic genus as the common or oblong quince has many different varieties, divided according to the time of ripening into late, mid-ripening and early.

Early quince varieties

The following early varieties are the most popular:

  1. Oiler early. Fruit ripening is observed in the last days of September. The lemon-yellow large fruits weigh 190–350 grams, they are smooth, ribbed and have a conical-round shape. The yellowish-white, fragrant pulp is of medium density, it is juicy, fine-grained and sweet-sour. During storage, the astringent effect of the fruits disappears, and they acquire a sweet taste.
  2. Crimean aromatic. The winter-hardy variety is distinguished by its productivity. It is resistant to subcutaneous spotting. Fruit ripening occurs at the end of September. Medium-sized, smooth, lemon-yellow fruits are apple-shaped. The slightly sour, pale yellow flesh is juicy.
  3. Juicy. Yield variety resistant to drought and frost. Medium-sized fruits weigh about 250 grams. The sweet-sour yellow pulp is very juicy.
  4. Harvest Kuban. This high-yielding variety is resistant to diseases, frost and drought. Quite large fruits weigh up to 0.5 kg. The sweet and sour creamy pulp is quite juicy.
  5. Skorospelka. This high-yielding variety for technical purposes is resistant to diseases. The fruits are small, their sweet-sour pulp has a mediocre taste. Such fruits are not eaten fresh.

The following early varieties are also quite popular: Aurora, Anzherskaya, Zolotistaya, Gold of the Scythians, Rumo, Nikitskaya, Zolotoy Shar, Collective, Krasnoslobodskaya, Podarochnaya, etc.

Medium quince varieties

The fruits of mid-season varieties ripen from early to mid-October. Varieties:

  1. Kaunchi 10. This is a productive Central Asian variety that is resistant to drought and has average frost resistance. The medium-sized pear-shaped fruits have a smooth, in some cases slightly ribbed surface, on which there is an easily erasable felt pubescence. gray. The orange-yellow fruits have creamy, fragrant flesh that is sweet and dense.
  2. Kubanskaya. This variety is fast-growing and has average resistance to drought and frost. Small, slightly ribbed, cylindrical-rounded fruits weigh about 250 grams; their surface has dense pubescence consisting of gray felt pile. In ripe greenish-orange fruits, the pubescence disappears. The juicy, sweet, creamy pulp has low acidity and medium density; there are stony cells near the seed chamber.
  3. Astrakhan. The variety is characterized by high productivity. Medium pear-shaped pale yellow fruits weigh about 200 grams. The yellow pulp with a creamy tint is dense, fine-grained, and has a tart-sour taste.
  4. Golotlinskaya apple-shaped. This early ripening variety is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and productivity; it has a compact small crown. The medium-pubescent ribbed fruits have a cylindrical or flat-spherical shape, they are colored yellow-golden with green and weigh about 280 grams. The pulp is juicy, pale yellow, tart, and even after processing it is very fragrant.
  5. Berecki. This partially self-fertile variety was born thanks to Hungarian breeders; it is characterized by stable yield. For pollination, it is recommended to use the Ispolinskaya, Champion and Portuguese varieties. Large pear-shaped fruits weigh about 270 grams, they are very aromatic and have high taste. They can be eaten fresh, like apples. The juicy yellow flesh is very tasty.
  6. Trimontium. The variety is winter-hardy. Medium fruits are of equal size and are usually used for processing.

The following varieties are also quite popular among gardeners: Limonka, Otlichitsa, Leskovats, Shchuchinskaya, Persidskaya, etc.

Late quince varieties

Fruit late varieties ripen in the last days of October or November. Popular varieties:

  1. Zubutlinskaya. This Dagestan variety of folk selection is distinguished by its yield and resistance to wind, frost and disease. The yellow-golden felt fruits are very large and weigh about 0.8 kg, they are blunt-ribbed and have a round shape. The juicy pale yellow flesh tastes very pleasant.
  2. Vraniska Denmark. This variety of Yugoslav selection is characterized by high yield, it is resistant to disease and wind. Yellow-green, slightly woolly, pear-shaped, truncated-rounded fruits weigh about 270 grams. The flesh is sweetish-sour, dense and juicy and pale yellow in color.
  3. Buynakskaya large-fruited. The Dagestan early-fruiting and self-fertile variety is characterized by high yield and resistance to diseases and frost. The cylindrical or pear-shaped pale yellow fruits are quite large, in some cases their weight reaches 0.7 kg.
  4. Ktyun-zhum (winter quince). A very late variety is zoned for the Middle Caucasus. The smooth yellow fruits with a golden hue are broadly ribbed and often weigh about 0.8 kg. The pale yellow, sweet and sour pulp has high taste.
  5. Portuguese. This European variety is partially self-fertile and has average frost resistance. The medium-sized, slightly pubescent, short pear-shaped fruits are ribbed. The pale yellow, fragrant pulp has a tart taste.

Also popular are varieties such as: Mir, Student, Ispolinskaya, Champion, Victoria, etc.

Quince varieties for the Moscow region

Quince is excellent for cultivation in the Moscow region, because it has a very high resistance to frost, and tolerates winter better than cherries, apricots, cherries and certain varieties of apple and pear trees. For wintering, the quince must be covered; for this, the bottom of the trunk is insulated and root zone. Recommended varieties:

  1. Muscat. So medium tall early variety It is characterized by high yield and resistance to frost, drought and disease. This variety is best suited for the Moscow region, as it grows well in dense soil. The felt-like, fluffy fruits have rough, pale cream flesh.
  2. Firstborn. The moisture-loving early variety is characterized by productivity and frost resistance. Begins to bear fruit in the fourth year. The round, hairless, smooth fruits are light yellow in color and weigh about 220 grams. The creamy, fragrant flesh is tender and juicy.
  3. Amber. The early-ripening, mid-ripening variety has average frost resistance and is characterized by productivity and high resistance to drought and fungal diseases. The slightly ribbed, apple-shaped, medium-sized fruits range in color from amber to deep yellow. Very fragrant coarse-grained pulp of yellow-orange or rich cream color, juicy and sweet-sour.
  4. Success. The late self-fertile variety is characterized by resistance to frost and drought and productivity. The slightly pubescent, smooth, round fruits are pale yellow in color and have sweet flesh.
  5. Krasnodar. The mid-season variety is resistant to frost and drought. Medium, slightly ribbed, apple-shaped fruits weigh about 200 grams and are colored in a rich yellow or orange-amber hue. The coarse-grained, very fragrant pulp is juicy, sweet and sour, yellow-orange or rich cream in color.

Common quince is both decorative, medicinal and fruit plant with unique properties. Of course, quince fruits are not nearly as tasty raw as their sister apple trees, but they have no less benefits. Growing quince will provide you with a storehouse of pectin substances, provide delicious raw materials for jams, marmalades, compotes and sauces, and quince looks much more interesting than banal apple and pear trees.

Therefore, we propose to talk about what are the benefits of quince, how to plant quince, caring for common quince, pruning quince.

Common quince: benefits, properties, features

So, common quince (Cydronia oblonga Mill) belongs to the Rosaceae family, subfamily of the Appleaceae. In culture, it is widespread in North America, Western Europe, the Mediterranean, as well as in Moldova, Ukraine, Crimea, Central Asia and the Caucasus.

Often, entire gardens of common quince are planted in cities (or near cities) that rely on heavy or mining industries, on the territories of industrial enterprises, and in plantings in shelterbelts. Thanks to its resistance to gas and dust, quince feels good even in urban conditions and can easily tolerate shaping and trimming. The resistance of this plant against dust and gas is explained by the peculiarities of its morphological structure, which impede the penetration of gases into tissues. In addition, the fruits and leaves are covered with fluff, protecting them from damage by hail.

Also common quince – the best dwarf rootstock for pears. Gardeners often use such rootstocks to establish palmette gardens.

Quince fruits they are practically not consumed raw. Their main purpose is processing into canned products. This includes jelly, jam, candied fruits, preserves, compotes, and much more. Quince fruits are rich not only in organic acids and pectins, but also in tannins, due to which they are stored for a long time under normal conditions. It is during storage that quince fruits acquire their characteristic rich aroma and taste.

Quince: beneficial properties

- Quince fruits are a storehouse of vitamins. They are rich in vitamins A, P, B1, B2, C; contain many catechins, which have P-vitamin activity, macro- and microelements (iron and potassium - 35-50 mg%, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus - 8-12 mg%). Vitamin P promotes the accumulation of vitamin C, the removal of oxalic acid from the body, has a diuretic effect, and strengthens the walls of blood vessels. In terms of the content of chlorogenic acid, which causes a diuretic effect, quince is close to a pear.

Regular consumption of quince products is prevents some intestinal diseases and increases the rate of blood clotting.

The skin and subcutaneous layer of the fruit contains a significant amount vitamins, catechins, tannides, dyes, as well as pelargon-ethyl and enanthic ethyl esters, giving a specific smell to the fruits.

- Quince seeds are rich in the glycoside amygdalin, mucilage and fatty oils , due to which they can be used as an enveloping agent, a diarrhea, an expectorant and a softener for diseases of the respiratory tract.

Quince seeds and fruits are used in the textile and medical industries. The beautiful, easily polished quince wood is especially prized.

Common quince: biological characteristics

Quince is a bush or tree 2-7 meters high, with a thin scaly bark that constantly peels off. The bark is black-gray or grey. The shoots are initially pubescent, but become bare over time. Quince blooms with white-pink, single flowers. The fruits are yellow-orange or lemon-colored, covered with a felt coating that disappears on ripe fruits. The shape of quince fruits is smooth or ribbed, pear- or apple-shaped, 6-12 cm long, weighing from 200 grams.

Quince pulp is tart, juicy, sweet and sour, and less often sweet. Many stony cells are formed near the seed chamber, although such cells are not typical for some varieties.

Depending on the region, the beginning of the quince growing season occurs in the middle or end of April, and flowering occurs in the middle or end of May. The buds begin to bloom when the temperature reaches 9-10 degrees. Quince is characterized by two periods of shoot growth: 1st - at the end of April - beginning of May; 2nd – at the end of July – beginning of August.

Two or three weeks pass between the opening of vegetative buds and flowering. In general, quince blooms a little later than other fruit trees, since its flowers form on the shoots of the current year.

The first few years of quince growth are very active. The buds on the previous year's growths do not develop equally. As the length of the shoot increases, their activity decreases (long shoots have few buds on the lower part). Therefore, the shoots must be shortened - this prevents the lower part of the shoot from being exposed and helps regulate fruiting.

As the quince tree matures, the fruiting pattern also changes. In young plants it is concentrated mainly on annual shoots. With age, growth decreases, fruiting shifts to fruiting branches - these are formations consisting of a shoot that bears fruit, multiple annual shortened shoots and a fruiting bag.

At the age of twelve to fifteen years, in tree-like forms of this crop, the formation of fruit buds is observed on fruit and annual branches, which give an equivalent harvest. Thus, the quince bears fruit until thirty to thirty-five years of age, after which fruiting moves mainly to the fruit branches.

Since the quince crown is systematically renewed, mainly annual shoots bear fruit. In more northern regions it is better to grow quince in bush form , since when the trunk is damaged by frost, restoration of the crown occurs due to new shoots from the shoots. If the plant is grafted, such shoots are removed from the shoots above the grafting site. Quince bears fruit up to forty-five, and sometimes up to sixty years.

For the development of the quince root system, loamy, heavy loamy soils, structural, with good aeration and a groundwater level no closer than 1-1.2 meters are best suited. Almost all roots are located at a depth of 1-1.2 m, and within a radius of up to five meters.

This crop is common in warm areas with an average annual temperature of about 8 degrees, although there are varieties that can withstand frosts down to minus 35 degrees.

Quince is a light-demanding, drought-resistant, moisture-loving crop. With a lack of moisture, its fruits become smaller and many stony cells form in them. Grows well in damp conditions clay soil mixed with sand. On saline soils, light loams and light soils it lives less and bears fruit worse. On heavy fertile soils, quince begins to bear fruit quite late, but bears fruit more abundantly than on light soils, the fruits grow of higher quality, and the tree itself lives longer.

Quince: planting and care. Quince cultivation

Choosing a plot for quince

If we're talking about about planting an entire quince garden, it is better to choose a site with flat terrain and a slope to the southwest or southeast. You cannot plant quince in open areas that are not protected from the wind, as well as in lowlands where the air stagnates.

When planting quince It must be taken into account that this is a fairly vigorous fruit crop, and sufficient feeding area must be allocated for it. Between trees you need to maintain a distance of at least 4x4 meters, or even 6x8 meters.

Approximately in the sixth to eighth year after planting the common quince, the trees grow and shade the feeding area allotted to them.

How and when to plant common quince?

Planting common quince It is carried out either in the spring, in the 1st-3rd decade of April, or already in the autumn, a couple of weeks before the arrival of stable frosts.

A hole 0.7-1 m wide and deep is prepared for the seedling. In general, preparation for planting and planting itself do not differ from other fruit crops (for example, pears).

Common quince pruning

Quince formation consists of creating a well-lit crown. The main skeletal branches are evenly spaced along the trunk. In three to five years, a tree skeleton is created, consisting of eight to ten lateral, evenly spaced branches.

Quince formation begins by measuring a trunk of annual seedlings 0.5-0.6 m high from the soil - seven to eight buds are counted above it and cut off. On the first tier there should be four to five branches left through the bud (distance - 10-15 cm). Afterwards, a second tier of branches is formed, placed every 30-40 cm. They should extend from the trunk at an angle of at least 45 degrees. On the second tier, located every 30-40 cm, the branches should extend from the trunk at an angle of at least 45 degrees. After formation, the quince tree has six to seven branches of the 1st branching order. Branches of the 2nd order of branching should be located 30-40 cm from each other.

When pruning a two-year-old tree, first cut the lower skeletal branch of the first order, shortening it to 0.5-0.6 m. Other skeletal branches are pruned to the same level, and the conductor should be approximately 20 cm higher than the skeletal branches.

In the third year, the formation of the quince crown basically ends. Well-growing young fruitful quince plants are pruned lightly. The main thing during this period is accommodation, removal of interfering shoots (rubbing, competing, intertwining, growing inside the crown), which will make the crown well lit.

The formation of quince fruits occurs mainly at the tops of powerful annual shoots, while dormant buds remain on the lower part of them, which leads to “baldness” of part of the crown. To avoid this, vigorous shoots should be trimmed by 25-30% of their length, and annually.

During active fruiting, plants significantly slow down their growth. To stimulate the resumption of growth on such trees, semi-skeletal and skeletal branches are shortened by old wood(d up to 1 cm).

Living pruning of quince that produces good growth should be carried out every year.

With age, tree growth slows down and tops appear. In this case, pruning is carried out based on the condition of the tree.

Quince has a high regenerative ability. In spring, many dormant buds begin to sprout on perennial wood and roots. The crown is able to fully recover due to them.

When to prune quince? It’s best before the sap begins to flow, that is in early spring. After trimming the quince, it is mandatory to clean the wounds with a sharp knife, as well as putty with garden varnish.

Feeding quince

For normal nutrition of quince, it is necessary to apply fertilizers in autumn and spring. In autumn - in large doses to create the main supply of nutrients in the soil. Nitrogen fertilizers for quince are applied in the first half of summer, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in the second half.

How to propagate quince?

Quince can be propagated either by seeds or vegetatively:

- vaccination

- jigging

- sprouts

- cuttings

The varietal characteristics of a crop are preserved only in the case of vegetative propagation.

Quince propagation by grafting

To begin with, seedlings - rootstocks - are grown. Cultivated varieties are either grafted onto these rootstocks in the spring or budded in the summer. To grow rootstocks, seeds of either local or cultivated winter-hardy varieties are taken; hawthorn is often used as a rootstock.

After preliminary stratification, the seeds are sown from the 2nd ten days of April to the 1st ten days of May. The germination rate of quince seeds is high – 90-95%.

Seedlings are budding in the second year. Budding is best done in early August. At the age of one or two years, the seedlings are ready to be dug up and planted permanently.

Propagation of quince by cuttings

Quince propagated woody cuttings in early spring in greenhouses, greenhouses and open ground. Quince cuttings will take root well if there is high humidity in the greenhouse.

Shoots for cuttings are harvested in the fall, but it is also permissible to do this in winter period. Annual shoots are divided into cuttings 25-30 cm in size and deepened into the ground so that one bud is above the surface. A distance of about 10 cm is maintained between cuttings in a row, and row spacing is 40 cm.

At proper care(watering, mulching, weed control), quince cuttings will take root by autumn. As a rule, about a third of the cuttings take root in open ground, and about 2/3 in greenhouses.

Quince propagation by jigging

The best way to propagate quince after budding. The most popular methods propagation by horizontal and arcuate jigging.

- Horizontal Jigging obtained in the following way: in early spring, well-developed annual shoots are deflected from a bush or tree trunk, placed in grooves 10 centimeters deep and fixed every 15-20 cm. On such shoots, lateral buds will sprout into vertical shoots. When they reach a height of about 20 cm, the vertical shoots are covered with earth to half the height. Throughout the summer they are looked after - weeded and watered. And in the fall, after the leaves have fallen, the seedlings are separated from the mother plant and dug up. Such transplants produce well-developed seedlings.

- Arc jigging get it like this: in the spring, 70-80 cm from the trunk mother plant They dig grooves, place shoots in them and pin them. The shoot in the groove is sprinkled, the soil is lightly compacted, and top part shoots are brought out vertically.

Reproduction of quince by shoots

Throughout the entire growing season, as young shoots grow, they are earthed up at least twice: for the first time - when the shoots reach 15-20 cm; the second time - after 15-20 days. In the fall, they are separated from the parent plant, buried in drops for the winter, and with the arrival of spring they are grown to obtain strong rooted seedlings.

When to collect quince? How to store quince?

Quince fruits are harvested when they reach the size characteristic of the variety, lemon or yellow-orange color, pronounced aroma, in clear, dry weather. Quince fruits cannot be thrown, crushed, or squeezed, as dark spots will appear on them over time. Usually, Quinces are harvested from the end of September and throughout October. Quince is not picky about storage conditions. Ideal conditions for it: temperature – 0-1 degrees, air humidity – 90-92%.

Japanese is a perennial exotic shrub that grows wild in Asian countries. The shrub is loved and respected by gardeners for two reasons. By mid-autumn, quince fruits ripen on the bush, carrying a whole complex of vitamins and possessing original combination taste and smell. But not only gardeners value quince; flower growers and landscape designers respect the plant for its abundant and luxurious flowering, the ability to use quince in site decoration, creating a bright flower bed, and also as a hedge. Today in this article I will tell you how to grow quince on your own plot.

Types of quince

There are not many types of quince in nature, which cannot be said about the varieties, of which there are over five hundred, on the basis of which breeders are creating more and more new varieties of quince. However, the choice for growing crops on the site is not so great: the vast majority of varieties are not suitable for planting in our latitudes. However, those who want to enjoy the unique beauty of flowers and healthy fruits will be able to choose for themselves the only type and variety that suits them in agricultural technology and the result. Among the common types are:

  • Quince is wonderful. The name is not accidental; the bush is valued for its unique decorative properties. A striking feature of the species and varieties is the change in leaf color throughout the season. At the beginning of the growing season, quince leaves are green, gradually towards the flowering period the leaves become bright red, and by autumn they acquire a rich burgundy color.


  • Quince Mauleya. Among gardeners, it acquired the name “low quince” for its short stature in comparison with other representatives of the crop. The shrub reaches a height of no more than one and a half meters; the leaves of this species also change shade, but in this case they change color from red to green. Quince shoots are prickly, and the flowers resemble peonies in their splendor.
  • Chaenomeles cathayan. The most common variety for planting in areas of our country. It occupies such a popular position for a reason: the shrub is very impressive in size, its height reaches 3 m, and is not afraid of frost and sudden climate changes.


  • Zubutlinskaya quince. Another representative of popular species. Zubutlinskaya quince is a type of crop that is suitable in all respects climatic zone our country. Even the northern regions can boast of growing quince on site when it comes to varieties of this species. The shrub without additional shelter can withstand frosts down to -30 degrees. In autumn, quince bears large and juicy fruits. Another advantage of growing quince is resistance to diseases, which cannot be said with confidence about other species.


  • Lady Pink. The result of a long and difficult path breeders. The main advantage of the species is the bright lush buds of the most delicate pink color with yellow stamens. Most often, this type of quince is used by landscape designers to fill or plant hedges; the fruits of quince do not carry any special value.
  • Crimson and Gold. A popular variety for those wanting to plant an impressive hedge. The convenience of the variety is due to its sparse growth, due to which less and less frequent maintenance of the hedge is required.

Planting Japanese quince


Conditions for growing quince

When choosing a place to plant quince on a site, pay attention to the peculiarities of the agricultural technology of this crop.

  • Quince lighting. The plant loves sunlight very much; moreover, quince leaves and flowers are not afraid of direct sun rays. Therefore, the crop can be planted directly in open areas. Placing quince in shaded areas will not cause disease or death, but will significantly affect the splendor and effectiveness of flowering, and fruiting will be reduced or stopped altogether.
  • Air temperature for quince. As already mentioned, the frost resistance of quince depends on the chosen variety. But with above-zero temperatures everything is simpler: quince tolerates heat well.
  • Air humidity for quince. Quince is a more drought-resistant plant; it does not suffer from reduced watering and does not require spraying, although in hot weather, of course, the crop requires watering. However, watch the amount of water; stagnant moisture is more dangerous for the crop than lack.


Planting quince

Step-by-step instructions for planting Japanese quince are as follows:

  • Choose the right time to plant quince. Gardeners recommend planting quince in the spring; in this case, you can be sure that the shrub will have time to take root before winter. But if you live in the southern regions, you can also autumn planting quinces.
  • Choose the right quince seedlings. Seedlings two years old take root easily and quickly begin to grow.
  • Properly prepare the place for planting quince. Each seedling needs a planting hole up to 0.8 m deep. The soil for quince should consist of leaf soil, peat and sand; add fertilizer to the soil in the form of potassium nitrate, superphosphate, ash and humus.
  • Plant the quince correctly. You should not deepen the root collar, nor should you raise it too much above the surface of the earth. Place shrubs in groups; quince does not grow well alone. But don’t be too quick with planting: in order for an adult plant to be comfortable, the step between planting holes should be 1 m.


Quince care

Caring for quince is not difficult; you need to follow a number of sequential procedures.

  • Watering quince. The peculiarity of the quince root system is the length of the root shoots; they can reach 5 m, thanks to which they cope well with the extraction of groundwater for nutrition. To roughly understand what moderate watering of quince means, remember this frequency: water young seedlings once every 3 weeks, adult shrubs - once every 2 months.
  • quinces. Sanitary pruning of quince in the spring is practiced, and formative pruning of quince is also necessary to avoid thickening of the branches and disease of the bush. Carry out the procedures only in the spring; autumn pruning increases the risk of death from frost.


  • Feeding quince. Quince loves organic and mineral ones, however, it is important to provide the right nutrition. The first year after planting, applying fertilizers to the soil can do more harm than good; the crop has enough nutrients added during planting. Starting from the second year, start feeding the plant with the same set of fertilizers that you needed a year ago (in the form of superphosphate and potassium, organic matter - compost). Apply fertilizers to the near-trunk soil; there is no need to dig.


  • Wintering quince. Non-frost-resistant varieties are available for planting only in the southern regions; those varieties that are able to withstand sub-zero temperatures also need help. Build a shelter for the quince during frost from spruce branches or a cardboard box. It is important to protect the plant from the wind and throw as thick a layer of snow on top as possible.
  • Quince transplant. The culture does not tolerate changing places very well, so it is better not to do this unless absolutely necessary. If there is no other way out, carry the quince with a lump of earth, water it after transplanting, and try not to disturb it.
  • Quince diseases. The culture is quite resistant to various diseases and pest attacks, however, if trouble does occur, quince can be well cured by spraying with a solution of copper sulfate.

Quince propagation


There are many ways to propagate quince, and, what is most interesting, they are all effective, to one degree or another.

  • Propagation of quince by seeds. Unlike most cultivated plants, the seed method of propagating quince is the fastest, most reliable and effective. Plant quince seeds in the prepared soil in the fall, over the winter the planting material will grow naturally, and in the spring the first shoots will sprout in the garden bed.
  • Propagation of quince by cuttings. A method of quince propagation used to preserve varietal characteristics. Collect quince cuttings in early June, root them in a mixture of sand and peat, and plant them in the garden in the fall.


  • Reproduction of quince by layering. Tilt the lower young shoot towards the ground and fix it. Keep the soil moist in the summer and maintain hilling. Next spring separate the daughter layer and plant it in a separate place.
  • Quince propagation by division. Due to the rapid and efficient growth of the root system, the division method is used by gardeners, despite the decrease in yield in the first year after division.

Planting quince in the garden is a good investment in the decorative appearance of the area. Shrub care is minimal, but the benefits are obvious.

Decorating the garden and house area with cultivated plants helps transform the landscape design, and if you choose fruit-bearing shrubs and trees for decoration, you can get an excellent harvest of fruits or berries.

Japanese quince, amazing in its beauty, planting and caring for it in the open ground requires a careful approach, is one of the most exotic plants, during the flowering period it is lushly covered with magnificent, large flowers, pleasing the eyes of the owners.

Famous and cultivated varieties of Chaenomeles

Blooming profusely from May to June, decorative quince is distinguished by smooth leaves and small spines on the branches; fruiting is carried out by the formation of medium-sized round or oval fruits.

Varietal diversity makes it possible to choose exactly the species that will become magnificent and original decoration local area of ​​a summer cottage or garden, most often gardeners give preference to varieties such as Crimson and Simoni, Jet Trail and Pink Lady.

Description and general characteristics of the plant

Chaenomeles or Japanese quince, which can be planted and cared for by both experienced and novice gardeners, according to the generally accepted classification, belongs to ornamental and fruit crops and is a heat-loving plant.

It grows well in areas with mild and favorable climate, while the tree can be up to 3 meters in height, and the bush - no more than 1-2 meters; in the spring the crown is densely covered with lush color, its flowers are quite large, white, pink or orange.


Features of cultivation and reproduction

Exotic quince, planting and caring for the plant in open ground is not difficult to do independently; it grows and develops well in sunny areas, it is not demanding on the composition of the soil, and is highly frost-resistant.

Experienced gardeners recommend covering the bush for the winter or planting planting material in advance in the lowlands, where a sufficient amount of snow accumulates, to form a natural shelter, which will prevent the shoots and branches from freezing.

Self landing

The Japanese quince, amazing during the flowering period, the cultivation and care of which is within the power of any gardener, requires special attention When planting, it is best to do it in the spring, after waiting until the soil has completely thawed.

It is recommended to select two-year-old seedlings for planting, which are characterized by a highly developed root system, which guarantees excellent rooting; if necessary, Chaenomeles can be planted in bushes, which allows you to subsequently form a lush and brightly flowering bush near the house or in the garden.

Caring for a garden beauty

Having seen once how a quince blooms, it is impossible to deny yourself the pleasure of enjoying this splendor every spring, for which it is necessary to promptly care for the young seedling, providing it with optimal conditions for development.

During the first year after rooting in a new place, the planted shoots must be watered regularly, fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers in early spring, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are used for this in the fall; flowering and fruiting begin at 4-5 years of age.

Propagation: seeds, cuttings and division

On personal plot or a lushly blooming quince would look great in the garden; the tree is easy to grow and propagate; for this, methods of cuttings and dividing the bush are used, but the seeds take a long time to germinate.

It is best to propagate the plant by dividing an already overgrown bush; young shoots fully retain all the properties and characteristics of the mother plant; after planting them in open soil, it is imperative to provide them with mandatory feeding and shelter for the winter.

Pest and disease control

Provides good preservation varietal characteristics method of propagation by cuttings, Japanese quince is pruned to prepare cuttings at the beginning of summer, while strictly monitoring the processing of pruned branches.

Pruning in wet weather or at other times will lead to disease of the bush or tree, for which mandatory preventive treatment measures are carried out, which helps get rid of fungal diseases and aphids that can destroy a beautiful bush.

Lush bushes can be planted in rows, which will help to form a living and beautiful hedge on the site, decorating the area; they are suitable for use in the overall composition of landscape design and stylistic decoration.

Chaenomeles fruits are very healthy and contain a complex of vitamins and useful elements, they are used to prepare fragrant jam and marshmallows, various preparations for the winter and added to other dishes to emphasize the taste.


Photo of Japanese Quince

The reason why the quince tree wins over summer residents and gardeners is its early fruitfulness combined with high productivity. The fruits are used to make jam, compote or marmalade and are distinguished by their beneficial properties. IN landscape design quince compositions are not in last place – ornamental shrub ideal for a hedge, shading a gazebo or zoning a space.

Varietal characteristics

The common quince is a deciduous shrub or tree, reaching a height of 5 m. The branches rise upward along an oblique line and turn brown with age. The thin bark has a smooth but scaly texture.
The crown of the plant is medium-lush, with dark green oval-shaped leaves. The lower part of the leaves is bluish with a fleecy edge. Coral, white or pink petals appear from May to June. The fruits of the crop resemble a yellow apple, are covered with lint, and reach 15 cm in diameter. The tough pulp has a tart, sweetish, slightly astringent taste. Fruiting of the tree begins at the end of September and ends in October.
Common and large-fruited quince are popular among gardeners - these representatives of the Pink family are quite easy to cultivate in a suburban area.

Beneficial properties of fruits

Quince pulp contains a large percentage of copper, selenium, sodium, magnesium, iron, vitamins A, B, C and K, as well as fiber. The pulp of the fruit has a number of beneficial properties:

  • anti-inflammatory – improves immunity thanks to vitamin C;
  • dietary – the low calorie content of the fruit is relevant for adherents of a healthy diet;
  • antioxidant - polyphenols in the pulp reduce the aging of organisms, prevent early heart attacks;
  • antitumor - tanning components play the role of protecting the body from cancer;
  • expectorants - a decoction of the leaves eliminates bronchial diseases;
  • simulating intestinal function - fiber and pectins normalize the functioning of the digestive organs.

Thanks to fruit and organic acids, fruits are used in cosmetology to make masks against acne and to relieve fatigue.

Which variety to choose for home growing?

An unpretentious plant, the common quince takes root well on domestic soils. The varietal classification is based on the time of ripening of the hardwood.

Early quince

Summer residents who want to quickly get a harvest of healthy fruits stop at the early species:

  • Crimean fragrant. The variety is frost-resistant and bears good fruit at the end of September. The lemon-yellow medium-sized fruits have juicy flesh with a sour taste;
  • Early butterdish. It bears fruit in the third ten days of September and produces round-conical false apples with a characteristic aroma. The pulp is sweet and sour and can be stored for a long time, losing its sourness;
  • Kuban fruitful. The plant is characterized by frost resistance and resistance to soil dehydration. Produces large fruits weighing almost 0.5 kg. The sweet and sour juicy pulp has a creamy tint;
  • Skorospelke. This type of quince has good yield, but is used only for preparing preserves - jam, compotes.

All early species plants can be cultivated in regions with an average annual temperature of 8-9 degrees.

Selection of mid-season varieties

Already in the first half of October you can collect fruits from trees of the following varieties:

  • Kaunchi-10. The plant is distinguished by drought resistance and average winter hardiness. The fruits are shaped like a pear, distinguished by the presence of an edge, small ribs, dense and sweet pulp with a pronounced odor;
  • Berecki. The variety was grown by breeders from Hungary, produces pear-shaped fruits with yellow, juicy and tasty pulp;
  • Golotinskaya. The apple-shaped breed is undemanding to cultivation conditions. Fruits with edges have a golden color interspersed with green and a tart taste of the pulp;
  • Astrakhan. Gives big harvest pear-shaped light yellow fruits. The tart-sour taste is distinguished by dense, creamy pulp.

All medium varieties fruit crop They have good survival rates in regions with warm climates.

Types of late varieties

Late-ripening fruits ripen from October to November. The following late-winter crops are a priority for summer residents:

  • Vraniska Denmark. It has good productivity and the ability to withstand wind loads. Pear-shaped fruits are characterized by a weight of 270 g and dense, sweet and sour pulp;
  • Buynakskaya. A self-fertile winter-hardy crop bears pear-shaped fruits weighing 0.7 kg;
  • Zubutlinskaya. Winter-hardy breed with good productivity. Felt fruits weighing up to 0.8 kg have a golden-yellow hue and a sweet and sour taste of dense pulp.

Plants of late varieties bear fruit for 3-4 years.
Regardless of the time of fruit formation, quince requires cross-pollination. It fits optimally next to an apple or pear tree.

Landing Features

Plant deciduous crops in the central part of the site, protected from the winds. Despite its unpretentiousness, the common quince takes root on nutritious loams; when planted on sandy loams, it bears less fruit.

Soil preparation requirements

The tree successfully takes root in areas where groundwater approaches the surface within 1 m. When planting seedlings, keep in mind that:

  • It is better to prepare a hole for planting in early March or September, deepening it by 40 cm and widening it to 80 cm;
  • It is advisable to place a little clay at the bottom of the pit;
  • Fertilizing the pit is carried out at least 2-3 days before planting.

The ideal soil mixture will be one based on organic matter and minerals. The planting pit is filled with 50 g of ash, 150 g of superphosphate, soil and a small amount of lime.

Nuances of lighting, temperature and watering

Growing and caring for crops is achieved by an optimal balance of sun, temperature regime and moisture. For this:

  • choose open sunny areas with fruit trees;
  • cultivate quince in a climate where the average daily temperature per year does not exceed 9 degrees;
  • water the plant regularly - 4-5 times a season.

Young cuttings are watered after 1-2 days, and adult shrubs - before flowering. The second moistening of the soil is necessary during the period of flower formation, the third - when the ovaries have formed. The fourth watering is carried out during the growth of shoots, and the fifth - during the formation and growth of fruits.

Organization of feeding

The primary mineral-organic mixture is enough for a year. Organic matter (compost or humus) is applied once every two years, and mineral supplements are applied at the beginning of spring, summer and autumn:

  • nitrogen supplements are poured near the ground in early spring;
  • after the quince has flowered, the soil is watered with water containing dissolved potassium-phosphorus fertilizers(200 g per 10 liters of water);
  • in early August, fertilizing based on potassium and phosphorus is applied.

Mulching with compost and peat should be done in autumn or spring, laying the mixture in a layer of no more than 5 cm.

Methods for growing quince

Self-planting of quince is carried out using several methods. It is advisable for novice gardeners to grow a tree from seeds, root shoots or layering.

How to grow quince from seed?

The method is successful if the seedlings were not purchased in advance. The work is gradual:

  1. Selected suitable material- ripened fruits.
  2. From the fruits, grains are selected, preferably large ones.
  3. The ripened seeds are buried in damp sand and kept in the refrigerator for 2.5 months. It is better to place the sand in a plastic bag with small holes.
  4. In spring, seedlings are planted in soil with an acidity level of 6-7%.
  5. At the beginning of autumn, seedlings are moved into the ground at a distance of 50-100 cm from each other.

To protect the seedlings from freezing, they organize a system of snow retainers - small shields with paws that prevent snow from falling on the branches of the tree.

Vegetation using root shoots

Planting quince with root suckers is justified for quickly obtaining orchard– one growing season produces 6 shoots. Cultivation involves the following activities:

  1. A selection of quality shoots - from 12 to 15 cm long and about 1 cm thick.
  2. Separation of offspring from the mother root and planting vertical way. seedlings should be located 100 cm from each other.
  3. Organization of watering and mulching with woodchip ash or humus.

When working with root suckers, keep in mind that the tree will have a small root system, and the fruits will be small, mostly decorative.

Subtleties of propagation by layering

The method is simple and suitable for beginner gardeners. You'll need:

  1. At the end of autumn, cut the lower two-year-old shoots.
  2. Bend the layers to the ground, placing them in grooves buried 8 cm.
  3. Secure the material with staples and check for roots next spring.

Rooted seedlings are moved to separate holes in the fall. It is important to place them at a distance of 1.5 m and water them with plenty of water.

Quince cuttings

If a good harvest is needed, the cutting method of planting quince is used. The technology gives 98% germination and ensures good yield. When choosing a cutting method, break the work into several stages:

  1. Prepare the starting material in winter (branches can be cut from December to January).
  2. Try to cut branches 25 cm long, making the bottom cut near the buds.
  3. Bundle the chopped material in several pieces and place the soil in the cellar.
  4. Select your material carefully. Cuttings the thickness of a simple pencil would be ideal.
  5. Plant in early spring. Using a shovel, make cross-bar holes in the ground and immerse the material halfway into them.
  6. Cover the beds with compost and water after a while.
  7. Control the verticality of the seedlings by driving a stake into the ground.

Mulching and wrapping the rods in winter will help avoid freezing of the underdeveloped root system.

Features of planting in the autumn and spring seasons

When planting a plant, keep in mind that quince is drought-resistant and heat-loving. Place the seedling on south side plot or in the center of the garden space. Optimal time for planting fruit tree– period of rest.

Work in autumn

For planting, it is better to purchase annual seedlings with bare roots. This makes it easier to determine their condition. Root system An adult tree is several times larger than the crown diameter, so it needs to be planted at a distance of 5 m from other plants and buildings.
Activities are carried out in the following order:

  1. The site is prepared in the spring - it is dug to depth bayonet shovel and fertilized. Agronomists recommend adding 5 parts of superphosphate and 2 parts of potassium per square meter. The soil dug up and covered with fertilizers needs to be watered.
  2. In autumn, a hole 45-90 cm in diameter is dug in the ground and deepened by 40 cm.
  3. A wooden support is placed in the center of the pit.
  4. A layer of clay and a soil mixture (excavated earth, superphosphate, wood ash) are placed at the bottom of the pit.
  5. The seedling is installed with the distribution of the root system and covered with soil.
  6. The soil is compacted and watered abundantly.

After the liquid is completely absorbed into the ground, the seedling is tied to a peg and mulched with peat or humus.

Nuances of spring planting

Work in the spring involves preliminary actions (digging the site, applying potassium phosphate fertilizers, watering) in the fall. Mulching of the root circle is carried out in a layer that is 5 cm smaller than the previous one.
Fruiting of quince begins 3-4 years after planting. For a high-quality harvest, it is important to carry out caring measures.

How to properly care for quince?

To look after deciduous tree That's right, it's important to know a few nuances. The root system can be harmed by weeds - they pull nutrients from the soil. Periodic loosening of the soil will help increase aeration.

Shaping and sanitary pruning

The formation of the crown is subject to the requirements of parallel growth of branches:

  • the height of the stems above the root reaches 50 cm;
  • the bush should not be thickened - 10-15 branches are allowed on one plant. Two branches are up to 5 years old, no more than 4 three-year-old and two-year-old, the rest are annual.
  • Branches that are 5 years old are cut off - they produce the least amount of harvest.
  • Be sure to pinch vertical shoots before budding begins.

Branches that touch the ground are removed annually in the spring. They not only cut off the dry and non-fruit-bearing part of the crown, but also shape it for convenient harvesting.

Preventative treatment

  • Primary sanitary procedures for the destruction of insect pests are carried out before budding. The tree is treated with the insecticide “Preparation No. 30”, diluted (500 ml) in 10 liters of water in calm weather.
  • the second and third treatments consist of removing fungi before and after the period of flower formation. Before flowering, the drug Abiga-Pik is used, the May buds are sprayed with Kemifos, and after flowering, Strobi and Inta-Vir are used to remove the moth;
  • June fruits are treated with Lepidocide, July fruits with the antifungal Kemiphos;
  • insects are removed with Zolon, Okishom, Topaz, Fufanon and other drugs.

Sanitary spraying is stopped 30-40 days before fruit harvest.

Crops shown for neighborhood

Given the need for cross-pollination, apple or pear trees are planted next to the quince. Sun-loving, vigorous species will shade the crown and block its normal development.
Proper care of quince and planting according to the instructions above will help you reap a good harvest.
Quince has amazing decorative, taste and beneficial properties. If you spend a little time studying the features of cultivation, then your own “golden apple” garden can turn into a profitable occupation.