Nowadays, most furniture, such as cabinets, bedside tables, kitchens, and so on, are made of chipboard. The material is good, quite flexible (there is one for every taste and color). However, it has a big disadvantage. Over time, especially if this is a frequently used door, the hinges can be pulled out by the roots (probably many have experienced this), and the hinge dangles... the sash sags, or even comes off altogether. In general, how can I fix this whole thing? detailed instructions+ video version...
The essence of the problem is that it will not be possible to screw the “screws” back into these torn fasteners. They simply won’t stay there. We need to fix it some other way. For me personally there are only three. I’ll tell you about each one separately.
Regular matches
Everything is simple here, if your broken holes are not large, say, a piece of chipboard has not fallen out, then you can use ordinary matches.
How it works? Just hammer a match into the hole (great if the diameter is not large). And then we screw the screw in there. The match is pressed against the wall and thus the fastening is restored.
However, it is not suitable for heavily loaded doors that you rarely use. If you constantly open or close the sash, won't last long . BUT as a temporary solution, why not?
Glue + sawdust
The solution is as old as time, and it should be noted that it works well. Perfect if you have a piece of chipboard torn out.
The meaning is simple - take sawdust (you can take it from a chipboard, a piece of which has been torn out), or find it next to furniture production, next to large construction supermarkets (usually there are pieces lying around that no one needs), crush them, mix them with glue (previously we used PVA), apply this mass to the broken places, let them dry. And that’s it, tighten the “screws”. It's holding up well.
However, now there are a large number of adhesives; I even saw on the Internet how a guy poured a lot of glue into broken places. glue gun. And everything seems to be holding up
I used to repair hinges in the kitchen a long time ago. BUT due to the fact that the sash was used often, it broke quite quickly.
So this is again an option for a while, for constant use (10 - 15 openings per day), this is not the best way.
Wooden “chopik” + glue
I think this method is the best. After such a repair, the door in my kitchen worked for several years, and nothing was torn out again.
The principle is this: We remove the sash - the door, then you need to take a drill and drill out the torn holes.
We take a drill with a diameter slightly smaller than a wooden “chopik”, for example, my chopstick is 9 mm in diameter, and the drill is 8 mm.
We do not drill to the full depth of the door, usually 80% is enough, the main thing is not to drill further, because the drill will come out on the other side of the door, which is not always necessary. To do this, there is a special limiter on the drill, or at the required depth, you need to screw electrical tape onto the drill and not go beyond its limits.
Next we pour glue into the hole, I take “MOMENT” which glues the wood (you can take any other one; there are now dozens of different ones). Well, we hammer in the “chopik”, do it carefully so as not to break the back wall!
Let it set for about 15 minutes. Then in our wooden inserts, I drill another hole in the center, also not to the full depth. This is done in order to tighten the “screw” freely, but do not overdo it. For example, I have a “screw” with a diameter of 4 mm, and I take a drill with a diameter of 2 mm.
I tighten it on the removed door, try it - it holds perfectly! Now you can.
This third method, I think, is the best for repairing chipboard doors. Moreover, it is suitable for frequent openings.
Now we are watching the video version
This is where I end, I think my materials were useful to you. Read our construction blog, there will be a lot more useful.
For the manufacture of furnishings, various elements for connecting parts are used. Self-tapping screws – popular look fasteners that have their own undeniable advantages. They are especially often used for assembling cabinet furniture, ensuring a sound and durable connection of structural parts.
Self-tapping screws are a popular type of fastener that has its own undeniable advantages.
It is important to select fasteners based on the material and its density, thickness, etc.
This type of fastener, known as a self-tapping screw, is a type of metal screw with a screw thread and a pointed or flat end. The head of the element has a notch (straight, cross or polygonal) for twisting it into the fabric. For more fast connection parts of a cabinet or other object, for elements with a sharp end, use a screwdriver (if not available, a screwdriver).
Due to the thread, the screw is easily screwed into wooden panel or laminated chipboard. For hidden fastening For furniture parts, an eccentric tie is used, in which self-tapping screws play a major role. As a result of this type of assembly, tables or other objects are neat, without external traces of installation that spoil the appearance of the product.
This type of fastener, known as a self-tapping screw, is a type of metal screw with a screw thread and a pointed or flat end.
Important! The length of the screws can reach up to 50 mm and above. These fasteners are designed for thick solid wood panels.
The appearance of the product is affected by the possibility of installing a hidden connection.
Depending on the material and features of the design parts, there are two types of fastenings:
- with rare carvings and a sharp end;
- confirmations.
Due to the thread, the screw is easily screwed into a wooden panel or chipboard.
The first type is used for solid wood, chipboard, laminated chipboard and MDF. May vary in length and diameter.
For your information. Short screws are used to assemble narrow panels and plywood.
The length of the screws can reach up to 50 mm and above.
The second is used for the manufacture of furniture mainly from wooden planks sufficient width. It differs in that at the junction of the thread and the smooth upper part it begins to thicken. Confirmats often have a flat end and therefore require prepared holes.
Confirmats often have a flat end and therefore require prepared holes.
These fasteners are designed for thick solid wood panels.
Advantages and disadvantages
For furniture layout, fastenings are of utmost importance. And the appearance of the product is influenced by the possibility of installing a hidden connection.
For furniture layout, fastenings are of utmost importance.
The advantages of self-tapping screws as fasteners are:
- eccentric coupler;
- neat and reliable connection;
- precision in fitting parts.
When purchasing self-tapping screws, it is important to consider many points.
They are especially often used for assembling cabinet furniture, ensuring a sound and durable connection of structural parts.
If for assembly furniture design If a set of self-tapping screws is used, then if you work with them carelessly, the following is possible:
- distortions of parts;
- loosening of the fastening when screwing in repeatedly.
The base of the screws is steel.
How to choose?
When purchasing self-tapping screws, it is important to consider many points. The base of the screws is steel. To connect specific parts, elements with different coating. When assembling furniture, you must consider:
- length of fastening elements;
- their diameter;
- cap thickness;
- carving;
- degree of corrosion (depending on the coating).
To connect specific parts, elements with different coatings are used.
The selection of self-tapping screws is also influenced by the type of design and the desired appearance of the product.
The color of the fasteners is also important when the connection is open. In this case, it is worth choosing elements to match the canvas.
The color of the fasteners is also important when the connection is open.
To make a table or cabinet, you may need different screws, so it is recommended to consult with the seller if you are going to create the furniture yourself.
It is worth choosing elements to match the canvas.
Self-tapping screws have different types.
Confirmat is used for a more reliable screed. At the same time, a cap is often placed on the cap to make the fastener look more aesthetically pleasing.
To make a table or cabinet, you may need different screws.
Self-tapping screws are used to fasten parts without prepared holes or with them.
VIDEO: Furniture screws
Furniture screed is used only in furniture production. When making furniture, you should not use traditional fasteners instead of furniture ties, because it has special properties that not only facilitate the assembly of furniture, but also allow you to hide the fasteners. Next, we will consider the most commonly used types of furniture screeds and their features.
Confirmat
The most common type of fastener is confirmat. At the same time the easiest to use. With its help, assembling furniture is easier and faster than using other types of furniture screed. Especially if during assembly you have to drill holes for fasteners yourself. Using a confirmat, two parts are connected at an angle of 90 degrees.
Fig.1.
In order to tighten the two parts, you need to drill two holes. One in one part, with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmator head, the other, at the end of the second part, with a smaller diameter equal to the diameter of the threaded part.
As a rule, drills with a diameter of 6 and 5 mm are used for this, respectively. However, there is a combination drill available for drilling holes at the same time. It is very comfortable. There is no need to constantly rearrange drill bits or use two drills at the same time.
Fig.2.
Confirmat is a universal fastener, but it has some disadvantages and application features.
Confirmat should be used simultaneously with the use of dowels. A dowel is a wooden rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm and a length of 20-30 mm (in the photo below, next to the confirmation). The dowel acts as a guide and does not allow parts to move during tightening.
Fig.3.
Despite the fact that furniture assembled using confiramate can be assembled or disassembled, furniture made from laminated chipboard does not tolerate this very well. Typically, after one disassembly furniture screed It doesn't hold up well anymore.
The confirmation should be wrapped carefully. Most best option manually or with a screwdriver at low speed. Otherwise, the confirmation thread turns into a drill, which breaks the hole.
Fig.4.
In order to recess the head into the body of the furniture part, you should use a wrench and do it carefully, otherwise there is a possibility of the thread breaking. Sometimes it is necessary to pre-calculate.
Confirmat refers to “visible” fasteners. Those. Unlike other types of fasteners, it remains visible, so it is necessary to use special plugs or stickers to hide the fasteners.
Fig.5.
Fig.6.
Eccentric coupler
An eccentric coupler is often used in the factory production of furniture. The reason for this is the difficulty of drilling holes. An eccentric coupler consists of two parts: a pin and an eccentric. The pin is installed in one part, and the eccentric in another.
Fig.7.
The main advantage of this type of fastener is that this fastener is hidden and therefore does not spoil the appearance of the furniture. In addition, this type of fastener, unlike confirmat, allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, which is important, for example, when moving. Also, using an eccentric coupler, you can connect parts at different angles.
At self-production furniture is not used often due to the difficulty of drilling holes and the inability to correct the joint during assembly. The main difficulty in drilling holes lies in the hole for the eccentric. This hole is not through and requires the use of a special drill - a Forstner drill.
Fig.8.
Fig.9.
Fig. 10.
In this case, the sampling depth is about 12 mm, and the thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm. The remaining wall thickness is only 4 mm. There is a risk of drilling more than necessary, thereby damaging the piece of furniture. Therefore, when drilling holes for an eccentric tie, it is necessary to use drilling depth limiters.
Fig. 11.
Intersectional screed
This tie is a screw and nut with which two sections of furniture are pulled together, for example, two cabinets. To tie cabinets together, 2 to 4 sectional tie bars are used. Depending on the thickness of the chipboard, there are intersection screeds of various sizes.
Fig. 12.
Considering that the intersection screed is used to tie cabinets, and the cabinets, in turn, are made of laminated chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm, an intersection screed with a length of 32 mm is most often used. However, there are ties up to 50 mm long, which are used to tighten parts of greater thickness.
Fig. 13.
Shelf supports
Shelf holders exist great amount species. However, they can be divided into two groups: shelf holders for chipboards and shelf holders for glass. In turn, each of these groups can be divided into two types: shelf holders with and without fixation.
The shelf holder for laminated chipboard consists of 2 parts: a rod and a shelf holder.
Fig. 14.
The screw is installed in the cabinet wall, and the shelf holder is installed in the body of the shelf. To install the shelf holder, you need to drill holes in the shelf and cabinet wall. For most shelf supports, the hole sizes are standardized; they are shown in the figure below. However, when installing the shelf support, you should carefully read the instructions to avoid errors.
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Fig. 15.
It should be noted that shelf holders for chipboard come with or without fixation. The shelf holder with fixation has an eccentric mechanism, thanks to which the shelf will be firmly connected to the cabinet wall. Shelf supports with fixation have one more advantage; shelf supports of this type serve as additional reinforcement of the furniture structure.
Fig. 16.
Glass shelf holders have more simple design. They are attached only to the cabinet walls using a self-tapping screw.
Fig. 17.
Shelf holders for glass without fixation are a rod or an angle. Shelf holders with fixation have a special screw with which the glass is firmly fixed and cannot accidentally fall out. Fig. 19. Screed for table tops. Provides a reliable connection between two parts of countertops. To increase the accuracy of joining parts, it is advisable to use it together with a dowel. For a standard screed, non-through holes with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 19 mm are made in the connected parts of the tabletops. The distance between the holes should be 15 mm less than the length of the tie. The groove width must be at least 7 mm.
To tie two tabletops together, use a pair of ties. To install the tie rods, it is necessary to make recesses for the tie rod stops and a slot for the screw. This can be done different ways. Most affordable option next. The recess for the stops is made with a Forstner drill of a suitable diameter; the slot for the screw can be made using a jigsaw.
Fig.20.
Furniture corner
This type of fastener is used to connect two parts. This is a rather fragile connection method, so it is used to fasten parts that are not expected to be affected by heavy loads. Usually these are decorative elements, for example, the base of a wardrobe or mezzanine shelves.
Fig.21.
Often used plastic corners instead of metal ones. They are no less durable, but have a more attractive appearance and the possibility of hidden fasteners. The furniture corner is attached to two mating parts using two self-tapping screws. Then the lid is snapped on, thus hiding the fasteners.
Fig.22.
The furniture fasteners discussed in the article are the most common and most frequently used, due to the fact that these are the most versatile and easy-to-use types of fasteners. In the vast majority of cases, the types of furniture fasteners described are sufficient to assemble any furniture.
The abundance of shiny fasteners on the shelves of hardware stores pleases the eye, but makes every person not professionally associated with the sale of fastening equipment awkwardly hang around the display window. The purpose of half the screws is unclear, and it’s awkward to ask the seller... Let’s try to understand the variety of screws - self-tapping screws presented on modern market. After 5 minutes, you will be surprised to find that everything is much simpler than it seems.
The screw is a self-tapping screw. Where does the confusion come from?
What is the difference between a screw and a self-tapping screw? I suggest you look into GOST 27017-86, which gives the following definition of a screw:
A screw is a fastener in the form of a rod with an external special thread, a threaded conical end and a head at the other end, forming a thread in the hole of the wooden or plastic product being connected.
As follows from a document dated 1986, the use of this type of fastener involved pre-drilling a hole and limited the material of the fastened elements to wood or plastic. For this type of screws, brass, low-carbon steels (St1, St2, St3, 10kp) or corrosion-resistant steels without galvanic coatings. As a fastener, the classic screw is not very popular, but even today it is still found as a cheap alternative to self-tapping screws.
The self-tapping screw is a new stage in the evolution of fasteners. Formally, it corresponds to the definition from GOST, which we cited above, but has significant design differences (shape of slot, coil, thread and tip) and is made of high-quality steels with corrosion-resistant coatings.
As the name suggests, the self-tapping screw can cut threads on its own and is used without pre-drilling holes. Self-tapping screws can handle not only wood and plastic, but also metals, concrete, brick, etc. Given the variety of fasteners, it is useful to know their sizes and classification. Below are convenient tables for each type.
Transcript example
Screw 1 - 4×25 GOST 1145-80
Screw 4mm diameter, 25mm long, low carbon steel, unplatedStandardized labeling looks like this, but in practice everything is much simpler. On the box that you take from the shelf, only the purpose of the screws and their sizes will be written.
Standard sizes of self-tapping screws
The size of a self-tapping screw is determined by only two quantities: length and diameter.
Universal screws
They are usually made with incomplete threads. Used for wood, chipboard and other soft materials. Self-tapping properties are low. By standards GOST 1144-80, 1145-80 , 1146-80 Available in diameters 1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 8.0, 10.0 mm and lengths 13, 16, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120 mm.
| Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm |
| 2.5 | 10 | 3.0 | 10 | 3.5 | 10 | 4.0 | 13 | 5.0 | 16 |
| 13 | 13 | 13 | 16 | 20 | |||||
| 16 | 16 | 16 | 18 | 25 | |||||
| 18 | 18 | 18 | 20 | 30 | |||||
| 20 | 20 | 20 | 22 | 35 | |||||
| 22 | 22 | 22 | 25 | 40 | |||||
| 25 | 25 | 25 | 30 | 45 | |||||
| 30 | 30 | 40 | 50 | ||||||
| 40 | 45 | 60 | |||||||
| 50 | 70 |
Self-tapping screws for wood, chipboard, fiberboard, plastics
One of the most common self-tapping screws. Used for installation in dowels. Available with galvanized coating ( white) or with galvanization and chromate passivation ( yellow color), sometimes treated with phosphate.
| Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm |
| 3.0 | 10 | 3.5 | 10 | 4.0 | 12 | 4.5 | 16 | 5.0 | 16 | 6.0 | 30 |
| 12 | 12 | 16 | 20 | 20 | 40 | ||||||
| 16 | 16 | 20 | 25 | 25 | 45 | ||||||
| 20 | 20 | 25 | 30 | 30 | 50 | ||||||
| 25 | 25 | 30 | 35 | 35 | 60 | ||||||
| 30 | 30 | 35 | 40 | 40 | 70 | ||||||
| 40 | 35 | 40 | 45 | 45 | 80 | ||||||
| 40 | 45 | 50 | 50 | 90 | |||||||
| 45 | 50 | 60 | 60 | 100 | |||||||
| 50 | 60 | 70 | 70 | 120 | |||||||
| 70 | 80 | 80 | 140 | ||||||||
| 90 | 160 | ||||||||||
| 100 | 180 | ||||||||||
| 120 | 200 |
Wood screw with hexagonal head
DIN 571 and GOST 11473-75. Designed for fastening joists, slats and other tasks that require reinforced fixation. As a rule, it is produced galvanized.
| Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm |
| 6.0 | 30 | 8.0 | 40 | 10 | 40 | 12 | 100 |
| 40 | 50 | 50 | 120 | ||||
| 50 | 60 | 60 | 140 | ||||
| 60 | 70 | 70 | 160 | ||||
| 70 | 80 | 80 | 180 | ||||
| 80 | 90 | 90 | 200 | ||||
| 100 | 100 | 100 | 230 | ||||
| 120 | 120 | 120 | 250 | ||||
| 160 | 140 | 140 | 280 | ||||
| 180 | 160 | 160 | 300 | ||||
| 180 | 180 | ||||||
| 200 | 200 | ||||||
| 220 |
Screws for fastening to metals
Screws according to DIN 7981, DIN 7982, DIN 7982
Visually similar to universal ones, but differ in materials of manufacture, entry angle and thread profile angle (up to 60 degrees).
| Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm |
| 3.5 | 13 | 3.9 | 13 | 4.2 | 13 | 4.8 | 16 | 5.5 | 16 | 6.3 | 16 |
| 16 | 16 | 16 | 19 | 19 | 19 | ||||||
| 19 | 19 | 19 | 22 | 22 | 22 | ||||||
| 22 | 22 | 22 | 25 | 25 | 25 | ||||||
| 25 | 25 | 25 | 32 | 32 | 32 | ||||||
| 32 | 32 | 32 | 38 | 38 | 38 | ||||||
| 38 | 38 | 38 | 45 | 45 | 45 | ||||||
| 45 | 45 | 50 | 50 | 50 | |||||||
| 50 | 50 | 60 | 60 | 60 | |||||||
| 70 | 70 | 70 | |||||||||
| 80 | 80 |
Screws according to DIN 7504
Structurally almost completely identical to pointed screws for metal DIN 7981, 7982 , 7983 (see table above). The key difference is the tip that performs the function of a drill.
| Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm |
| 3.5 | 13 | 3.9 | 13 | 4.2 | 13 | 4.8 | 16 | 5.5 | 22 | 6.3 | 22 |
| 16 | 16 | 16 | 19 | 25 | 25 | ||||||
| 19 | 19 | 19 | 22 | 32 | 32 | ||||||
| 22 | 22 | 22 | 25 | 38 | 38 | ||||||
| 25 | 25 | 25 | 32 | 45 | 45 | ||||||
| 32 | 32 | 38 | 50 | 50 | |||||||
| 38 | 38 | 45 | |||||||||
| 50 |
Self-tapping screws for sheet metal and metal-based products
Self-tapping screws with press washer
They are found on sale with both a drill (for metal up to 2mm thick) and a sharp tip (designed for metal up to 0.9mm). Standard diameters 4.2 (4.0) mm and length - 13, 14, 16,
18, 19, 22, 25, 32, 41, 51 mm.
Self-tapping screw with a semi-cylindrical head (“bug”)
Similar to its predecessor, it can be either sharp or with a drill. There is no size guide for this self-tapping screw and it comes in only one size option:
With sharp tip - 3.5 x 11
With drill tip - 3.8 x 11
Hex head screws
Designed to work with sheet metal without preliminary hole preparation. Provide reinforced fastening. From one manufacturer to another, variations in product sizes for a given segment of fasteners are possible. The tables below show the most popular ones.
With a sharp tip.
For metal sheets up to 0.9 mm.
With drill (DIN 7504-K)
For metal of large thickness (5mm or more). The length of the drill tip determines the swing. sheet metal thickness.
| Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm |
| 4.2 | 19 | 4,8;5,0 | 14 | 5.5 | 19 | 6.3 | 19 |
| 21 | 19 | 25 | 25 | ||||
| 25 | 25 | 32 | 32 | ||||
| 32 | 38 | 38 | 38 | ||||
| 45 | 51 | 45 | |||||
| 51 | 64 | 51 | |||||
| 64 | 76 | 64 | |||||
| 76 | 76 | ||||||
| 90 | |||||||
| 102 | |||||||
| 127 | |||||||
| 152 |
Self-tapping screws for drywall
Manufactured with a countersunk conical reduced head, a Phillips slot, a double-start variable thread and a sharp tip. Dimensions of fasteners for mounting on wooden frame or a metal profile with a thickness of less than 0.9 looks like this: Ø 3.9 mm with lengths 19, 25, 30, 45 mm.
Self-tapping screws for fastening slabs and sheets of chipboard, fiberboard, plywood
As a rule, these are galvanized screws (FLUGEL) measuring 5.0 x 36
Available with a countersunk conical head and notches for countersinking a countersunk hole ( DIN 7504P) with dimensions:
Roofing screws
When installing the roof, it is advisable to use standard galvanized self-tapping screws. They are resistant to corrosion. The size chart looks like this:
| Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm | Ø,mm | length, mm |
| 4,80 | 20 | 5,50 | 19 (20) | 6,30 | 19 (20) | 7,00 | 122 |
| 29 | 25 | 25 | 142 | ||||
| 35 | 32 | 32 | 162 | ||||
| 38 | 38 (40) | 38 (40) | 177 | ||||
| 50 | 51 (50) | 50 | |||||
| 60 | 64 (62) | 60 | |||||
| 70 | 76 (78) | 70 | |||||
| 80 | 100 | 80 | |||||
| 115 | 90 | ||||||
| 130 | 100 | ||||||
| 150 | 130 | ||||||
| 180 | 150 | ||||||
| 235 | 175 | ||||||
| 200 | |||||||
| 235 |
Roofing screws with painted heads are available. The paint provides additional protection against exposure external factors. And they do not spoil the exterior of the roof, since they are “selected” by color.
Screws and self-tapping screws for special purposes
Confirmations
Confirmat or “euro-screw” is a separate category of fasteners. It is designed for the assembly of furniture panels. It is made with various protective and decorative coatings (usually galvanized). The thread pitch is rare. The task is to pull the parts together. The head has characteristic difference. A special hexagon is required for screwing.
Screws for concrete
Screwed into a pre-drilled hole. It is not recommended to use a hammer drill. Hence the complexity of the process. Before screwing in, you need to add a drop of machine oil - this will make the procedure a little easier. A type of fastener that is called “forever”. Withstand high loads (up to 100 kgf). Available in: Ø 7.5 mm. Length: 50, 70 (72), 80, 90, 100, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160,180, 200,... mm.
Window screws
No hole preparation is required. They work as “amplifiers” of windows and have the following dimensions: Ø 3.9 mm, lengths: 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 32, 35, 40 (38), 45 mm.
Frame screws
Large screws with high strength. They are screwed into the dowel and sometimes come complete with it.
Adjustment screws
A characteristic feature is the second thread. The first thread (usually smaller) is necessary for fastening to the base, the second is used for mounting the substructure.
Popular screws are ∅6 mm screws and lengths: 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130, 145 mm.
Scaffolding screws
Screws-nails
Screws for hangers
They are very convenient in everyday life, for example, we have had a children’s swing hanging on such fasteners for several years in the corridor of a city apartment. Time to install and remove is literally 1 second! Single standard there is no size specification for this element and each production creates a size range at its own discretion.
Cheat sheet for the home handyman
The following tables will help you navigate when choosing the necessary fasteners.
We distinguish the product by the type of thread
Self-tapping screws vary in the frequency of turns. The small pitch allows the fasteners to be used for metal parts. Screws with rare threads are designed for materials with low density. This includes: asbestos, gypsum, plastic, etc. By appearance Self-tapping screws can be classified as follows:
|
Thread pitch |
Special purpose |
|
Universal screws. Designed for fastening objects made of any materials (they are the most common). |
|
|
Frequent, |
Designed for attachment to metal profiles up to 0.9 mm thick without the use of dowels (required preliminary preparation holes, |
|
Self-tapping screws for attaching parts made of soft materials (wood, gypsum plastic, asbestos, etc.) without the use of dowels. |
|
|
Average, s |
Self-tapping screws for screwing into reinforced concrete or brick building objects by driving into a dowel. |
|
Asymmetrical |
Self-tapping screws for fastening elements modern furniture made of wood, chipboard, plywood, etc. (pre-drilling a hole with a diameter of 4.5 or 7 mm, respectively, is required). |
|
Alternating with notches |
Self-tapping screws for attaching to reinforced concrete or brick details buildings without dowels (dowels), (screwed into a hole with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 15 mm greater than the submersible part of the screw). |
It's all in the hat
Based on the shape of the cap, you can determine the intended purpose of the self-tapping screw. The relationship between these parameters is shown in the table:
|
Type of cap |
Features and purpose |
|
Secret |
After screwing in, the cap is completely recessed into the object being fixed without a protrusion. |
|
Profile - hemisphere |
Firmly holds the attached part due to the increased area of the clamping cap. |
|
Profile - hemisphere with a small press washer |
Possesses larger area the working surface of the cap and its reduced height. Used when installing sheet materials. |
|
Small secret |
It has a small working area and a gentle transition from the cap to the threaded barrel. During installation, it is fixed both in a stationary object and in an attached part. Allows you to apply significantly more force during installation than with a conventional countersunk head. |
|
Profile - hemisphere with a large press washer |
It has a larger working clamping area and a lower head height. The intended purpose is to attach low-density sheet parts. |
|
Hexagonal |
The configuration of the head allows you to tighten the screws with less effort, achieving strong pressure on the objects being fastened. |
|
Funnel-like secret with a thickening on the body of the rod |
Allows you to mask the connection. Allows you to cover the cap with a decorative plastic cover. Screwed in with a specific key (4 mm). |
The fact that a lot of effort was spent on screwing it in does not indicate the titanic torment that will have to be endured if the need arises to unscrew the screw. Therefore, every time a “forever” method is recommended, it is worth thinking about the feasibility. Manufacturers offer a variety of self-tapping screws, differing in the metal from which they are made. The cost also varies. In order not to overpay, you need to give an objective assessment of the load to which the fastening unit will be subjected. If we're talking about about the “carnation” for the painting on wooden wall, it makes no sense to spend money on expensive screws.
The screwing tool can be used both manually and electrically. Often a screwdriver is sufficient. This method will not allow you to achieve high labor productivity if we are talking about professional work and large volumes of fasteners. A familiar screwdriver is optimal for the job.
Slit - smiley :) Incredible, but true
The Japanese plant Komuro Seisakusho released a batch of fasteners with a non-standard slot in the shape of a smiley face. The author of this funny idea is designer Yuma Kano. Unfortunately, the new product has not yet been presented on the domestic market. 
We hope that now you have once and for all figured out the issue of the purpose and size of fasteners. We will be grateful for recommendations, criticism and detected inaccuracies.
Unlike fastening nails wooden parts Due to the compression of the nail shaft with wood, screws and self-tapping screws have a screw thread. This same thread does not allow the screw or self-tapping screw to freely exit the body of the wood, and in addition, the thread significantly increases the contact area of the screw or self-tapping screw with the wood. Therefore, even if you drill a hole of the same diameter as a self-tapping screw, the load-bearing capacity of the screwed-in self-tapping screw will, of course, decrease slightly, but at the same time, the internal stresses in the wood after tightening the self-tapping screw will also decrease much more, which means it will be much easier to tighten the self-tapping screw and the risk of splitting the wood , chipboard or other material will be significantly reduced.
2.
The process of wood deformation under the influence of force when tightening a self-tapping screw is very complex. Wood is a heterogeneous material and the strength of wood very much depends on the point at which the load is applied, the presence of knots, the type of wood, etc. Wood has minimal strength at the junction of the fibers, so usually the tip of the self-tapping screw falls between the fibers of the wood, and it is almost impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw, as well as drill a hole in the wood with an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter. Fortunately, there is usually no such need. For household purposes, an error of 0.5-1.5 mm is quite normal.
3.
Any screw or self-tapping screw has a certain volume, and when we screw a screw or screw into wood, we are thereby trying to reduce the volume of wood by the volume of the screw. No miracle happens. The volume of wood is partially reduced due to wood collapse, i.e. due to inelastic deformations. Moreover, the duller the screw or self-tapping screw (and self-tapping screws can also be dull), the greater the proportion of inelastic deformations that occur under the tip of the screw, which means that you need to apply more pressure on the self-tapping screw or self-tapping screw to produce these deformations. Part of the volume is released due to splitting of wood along the fibers, while a gap appears between the fibers, or, scientifically speaking, a crack. The crack opening width depends not only on the factors listed in paragraph 2, but also on geometric dimensions products and load application points. The more geometric parameters product and the closer the point of screwing in the self-tapping screw to the center of gravity of the section, the smaller the width of the crack opening, which means, again, more effort must be applied to tighten the self-tapping screw or screw in such a place. And the smaller the width and height of the product and the closer the place where the screw is screwed in is to the edge, the greater the likelihood that the product will not just crack, but also split, and then it will be very easy to tighten the screw or screw, but there will be no benefit from such a self-tapping screw or screw, but only one complete harm. The remaining volume for the screw to be screwed in is released due to elastic deformations. Distribution of internal stresses in the body of wood at elastic deformations and leads to the appearance of cracks. A similar situation is observed when screwing self-tapping screws into parts made of chipboard or OSB. small sizes, particle boards or oriented strand boards have less strength than wood.
4.a.
Thus, when we screw a screw or self-tapping screw into wood without preliminary drilling, we must constantly overcome the strength limit of the wood under the tip of the self-tapping screw or screw and at the turns of the thread and the ever-increasing frictional force that arises due to the compression of the self-tapping screw by the wood. The friction force increases due to an increase in the contact area of the self-tapping screw or screw with the wood. As a result, with enough large diameters rods or when screwing into harder types of wood or to greater depths, no normal screwdriver will have enough power to tighten a screw or self-tapping screw to the required depth. And the screwdriver will only chirp loudly, hinting that the strength limit has been exceeded and this is correct, because screwdriver manufacturers do not like to repair products damaged due to the stubbornness of the user for free.
4.b.
However, not all people use a screwdriver that has power adjustment; why buy an extra power tool when you have a drill and a screwdriver attachment for self-tapping screws. A drill, unlike screwdrivers, does not have power adjustment, and therefore when tightening self-tapping screws or large diameter or to greater depths, 4 scenarios are possible:
- You will tear off the slots on the head of a self-tapping screw or screw - a very high probability, especially when tightening at high speeds.
- You will very quickly ruin the screwdriver attachment. However, if the nozzle for self-tapping screws is Chinese, this can also happen with relatively small loads on the nozzle.
- You will break a self-tapping screw that cannot withstand the torque - not often, but it happens. The fact is that self-tapping screws, unlike screws, are pre-hardened and therefore more fragile than screws.
- You will burn the drill when screwing large quantity self-tapping screws at low speeds.
I don’t think you will like at least one of these options, so it’s better to spend extra time drilling holes than to spend this time repairing the drill, buying new attachments, or unscrewing a broken screw.
4.c.
Despite the victorious march of electricity across the globe, the effect of brute physical force has not yet been canceled, and therefore even now it is not uncommon for screws or self-tapping screws to be tightened manually with a screwdriver. But to be honest, I myself don’t like having to go down and get a power tool when I’m working at height. When tightening screws or self-tapping screws by hand, the scenarios are almost the same as when working with a drill, only you won’t burn the drill, but instead of the attachment you will ruin the screwdriver and you can still get a couple of good calluses. But there is also positive side- Your muscles will develop, and girls love it, just don’t tell them exactly how you pumped up your muscles.
4.g.
There is another method that is now little used - do not tighten screws or self-tapping screws, but hammer them in. However, this method is more suitable for screws; self-tapping screws, due to their increased fragility, more often break than bend, and only if the self-tapping screw sticks out 0.3-0.5 cm above the surface of the wood, then you can try to finish it off. We are not talking about special screws driven into dowels here.
Were in Soviet times and other recommendations for tightening screws (there was a lot of cheap electricity back then, but for some reason there were few available power tools), for example, it was suggested to first tighten the first screw until the slots are licked, then unscrew and throw away the first screw and screw the second one in its place, and if on the second, the slots will stick together, then unscrew the second screw and screw the third in its place. Another option was more gentle; it was proposed to lubricate the screw with soap before tightening it to reduce the friction force of the screw shaft on the wood. Nowadays, such methods of screwing in a screw seem exotic, however, the choice of method is yours.
Sometimes it is also necessary to drill holes for metal screws if the screws are blunt. This is especially often done during assembly. metal frame under drywall, plastic panels or MDF panels. The fact is that blunt screws do not cut through the tin of the frame, but push through and, accordingly, the contact area of the screw increases even more and you need to press very hard on such a screw. In this case, drilling holes will not only facilitate and speed up the assembly of the frame, but will also help to avoid unnecessary injuries, because it is very easy to damage your hand if a nozzle comes off a screw.
The modern market for construction fasteners offers the buyer a wide selection of self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, reviews of these “little helpers” are not always flattering.
The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly and how to choose it correctly.
Types of self-tapping screws
There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair- for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - “screws” for wood are characterized by a large pitch (more rare application of thread turns).
There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized parts. No, of course, it won’t be difficult to screw them into these materials, but how well they will stay there is a big question. The fact is that the “raw material” into which the self-tapping screw is “immersed” must lie securely in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to fit well into the narrow “grooves” of the universal self-tapping screw.
Tools for tightening screws
Fasteners may have caps different sizes and recesses in them of various shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or screwdriver with a suitable attachment in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have, as they say, as many attachments for the corresponding tools as possible. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since wear of the devices during operation cannot be avoided.
Note! The best attachments are those made of tool steel with hardening additives. Do not choose the first set you come across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.
If your plans are to screw one or two screws into a non-solid surface, then you can use a screwdriver. If it’s more, you can’t do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as simple an operation as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.
General technology for screwing in self-tapping screws
Using an awl, make a small indentation in the space reserved for the screw. Place the product “in position”. Using careful but confident movements, rotate the part until it is well deepened and secured in the material. After this, the force can be increased. Towards the end of the “process” the speed must be reduced again - so as not to damage the screw.
How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?
Concrete
Many men, not knowing how to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are “integrated” into concrete using dowels - durable plastic “tubes”. First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which “accepts” the fastener.
Worth knowing! Craftsmen It is recommended to lubricate the dowels with glue before installation. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.
Holes in concrete should only be drilled using a hammer drill - even hammer drill may not be able to withstand it, let alone an ordinary one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal ones.
Brick, ceramic tile, screed
Self-tapping screws are screwed into these media in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is that for working with tiles it is better to take a regular drill, since it can split due to excessive power of the hammer drill.
Copper, bronze, aluminum
Measure the diameter of the fastener shank excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Place the pointed jaws perpendicular to the screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. Using a drill with a diameter a millimeter and a half smaller than the obtained value, make a hole in the material. Screw the screw into the hole and the job is done. Use parts with universal threads.
Note! Before “making a hole” in the main structure, it is recommended to test the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product into it. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw fits into the hole tightly enough, but does not jam. If the screw fails to “break through”, you should work with a thicker drill. Tightening the part too easily symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw may pop out at any moment.
Hard metals
The hole in the material should be equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the unthreaded rod. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with a number of hard metals - in particular, screwing these fasteners into cast iron is almost impossible.
Plastic
Not every plastic material is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so making sure before starting work that the material fits exactly is a good idea. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products - with wood carvings.
Wood, fiberboard and chipboard
Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board? Believe me, nothing is simpler. The basic rule is to use only wood screws. For hard wood, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, pre-drilling a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of the material splitting with a self-tapping screw. For thick boards made of soft wood, you can do without this manipulation.
If you are working:
- with hardwood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw rod (of course, without thread);
- with fiberboard - 1 millimeter less;
- with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.
Drywall
Mark dots on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal pitch between screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you are using a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product in at maximum speed. After the self-tapping screw enters the surface by ½, it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to minimum. When tightening with a regular screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not the plaster! This will ensure maximum strength of the future structure. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the “ill-fated” place needs to be puttied, and a new one fastener place at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.
The type of self-tapping screws for drywall should be selected depending on the material used to construct the sheathing. For a metal frame, universal or metal screws are required, for wooden sheathing- wood products.
How to properly tighten a screw that has been removed?
The unscrewed part must be re-tightened exactly as it was before. It is very important that the screw fits into the same groove, at the same angle. If the product “draws” a “new path” for itself, the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an existing recess? Simply insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. There is no need to put pressure on a tight screw; you just need to remove it and try again. A little force is required only at the very end of screwing.
Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of “working hiccups”.
How to screw in a screw?
You take any screwdriver and twist until you have enough strength. If you don’t have a screwdriver, use a hammer to hammer it in like a nail!
Does this really happen? - will ask experienced master.
Unfortunately, it happens, and often. But it would not be worth starting a conversation about screws just for the sake of communicating the truisms: screws cannot be screwed in with the first screwdriver you come across, much less hammered in with a hammer. There are other subtleties.
Screws differ in size (diameter and length), head shape - countersunk (flat on top), semi-countersunk (slightly rounded) and semicircular, as well as the shape of the slot, which can be diametrical or cross-shaped.
What are the benefits of Phillips screws? Special screwdrivers with a cross-shaped end of the working part seem to find the slot themselves. This is a significant advantage. But working with such screws requires care, especially when they are small. If excessive force is applied, the slot is cut off, turning into a cone-shaped hole, and the screw must be replaced with a new one.
Why does the screw have a thin, sharp and deep thread with a conical rung at the end? Because he himself cuts the thread in the wood when screwing in (his own tap).
First of all, carefully consider and determine the joints, select the screws required sizes and shapes, use a ruler to mark the fastening points and prick them with an awl. Then prepare each of the parts to be joined. In the part where the screw head will be located, drill a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the screw. If the screw has a countersunk or semi-countersunk head, make a countersink with a countersink or drill whose diameter is equal to the diameter of the head or slightly larger. In the part into which the screw will be screwed, also drill a hole, but to do this, take a drill 15-20 percent smaller than the diameter of the screw. The drilling depth should be slightly greater than the screwed-in part of the screw. For screws with a diameter of 3mm. and drilling for threads is not necessary; pricking with an awl is enough. But for large screws and when working with hard wood, preliminary drilling is required: the screw will be easier to screw in and the connection will be tighter. In addition, wood cracking is eliminated.
So, everything is ready. Lightly lubricate the screw with grease, petroleum jelly or machine oil. We do not recommend lubricating the threads with soap; Although this also makes screwing easier, it worsens the reliability of the connection, since due to the aggressiveness of the caustic used in soap making, the screw quickly rusts. Now take a screwdriver, but not just any screwdriver, but only a suitable size and shape, with a well-tucked working part, and tighten the screw.
For driving screws into concrete or brick wall there are many ways. Here are some of them.
- Wall up a wooden plug in the wall using alabaster with pre- drilled hole under the thread and screw a screw into it.
- Pre-lubricate the screw with machine oil, thread a wire with a diameter slightly smaller than the thread pitch onto the thread, and wall it all up in the prepared socket. When the alabaster has set, the screw can be unscrewed and, when securing the part, screwed in again. The thread of the screw will fit into the socket like a nut and make a tight connection.
- A kind of dowel (if there is no factory one) can be made from a two-core electrical wire in vinyl chloride insulation. Bend a piece of wire in half, wall it up in the hole, and cut off the free ends that are on the outside flush with the wall. A screw can be screwed into such a dowel.
In chipboard (chipboard), screws, as a rule, do not hold well due to the graininess and heterogeneity of the structure of the material. It is recommended to glue wooden plugs into the fastening areas. If the fastening is not very loaded, you can screw the screws directly into the chipboard, but then preliminary drilling and abundant lubrication are required. Wooden plugs must be made so that the screws are screwed in across the grain. Screwed along the grain (into the end of the wood), they hold much weaker. The length of the plug must be at least 30 mm. even for short screws. The small plug does not stick well to the wall. The length of the chipboard plug is determined by the thickness of the slab.
Once again, never hammer in screws like nails. Such a connection is meaningless, because the screw and the wood into which it is driven are significantly destroyed, the screw will not work as a tap, but as a punch, and a tight connection will not work. Only a correctly placed screw provides a strong and reliable connection and, if necessary, convenient and easy disassembly.
The modern market for construction fasteners offers the buyer a wide selection of self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, reviews of these “little helpers” are not always flattering.
The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly and how to choose it correctly.
Types of self-tapping screws
There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair - for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - “screws” for wood are characterized by a large pitch (more rare application of thread turns).
There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized parts. No, of course, it won’t be difficult to screw them into these materials, but how well they will stay there is a big question. The fact is that the “raw material” into which the self-tapping screw is “immersed” must lie securely in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to fit well into the narrow “grooves” of the universal self-tapping screw.
Tools for tightening screws
Fasteners can have heads of different sizes and recesses in them of different shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or screwdriver with a suitable attachment in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have, as they say, as many attachments for the corresponding tools as possible. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since wear of the devices during operation cannot be avoided.
Note! The best attachments are those made of tool steel with hardening additives. Do not choose the first set you come across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.
If your plans are to screw one or two screws into a non-solid surface, then you can use a screwdriver. If it’s more, you can’t do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as simple an operation as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.
General technology for screwing in self-tapping screws
Using an awl, make a small indentation in the space reserved for the screw. Place the product “in position”. Using careful but confident movements, rotate the part until it is well deepened and secured in the material. After this, the force can be increased. Towards the end of the “process” the speed must be reduced again - so as not to damage the screw.
How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?
Concrete
Many men, not knowing how to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are “integrated” into concrete using dowels - durable plastic “tubes”. First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which “accepts” the fastener.
Worth knowing! Craftsmen advise lubricating the dowels with glue before installation. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.
Drilling holes in concrete should be done exclusively with a hammer drill - even an impact drill may not hold up, let alone a regular one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal ones.
Brick, ceramic tiles, screed
Self-tapping screws are screwed into these media in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is that when working with tiles, it is better to take a regular drill, since it can crack due to the excessive power of the hammer drill.
Copper, bronze, aluminum
Measure the diameter of the fastener shank excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Place the pointed jaws perpendicular to the screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. Using a drill with a diameter a millimeter and a half smaller than the obtained value, make a hole in the material. Screw the screw into the hole and the job is done. Use parts with universal threads.
Note! Before “making a hole” in the main structure, it is recommended to test the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product into it. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw fits into the hole tightly enough, but does not jam. If the screw fails to “break through”, you should work with a thicker drill. Tightening the part too easily symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw may pop out at any moment.
Hard metals
The hole in the material should be equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the unthreaded rod. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with a number of hard metals - in particular, screwing these fasteners into cast iron is almost impossible.
Plastic
Not every plastic material is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so making sure before starting work that the material fits exactly is a good idea. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products - with wood carvings.
Wood, fiberboard and chipboard
Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board? Believe me, nothing is simpler. The basic rule is to use only wood screws. For hard wood, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, pre-drilling a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of the material splitting with a self-tapping screw. For thick boards made of soft wood, you can do without this manipulation.
If you are working:
- with hardwood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw rod (of course, without thread);
- with fiberboard - 1 millimeter less;
- with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.
Drywall
Mark dots on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal pitch between screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you are using a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product in at maximum speed. After the self-tapping screw enters the surface by ½, it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to minimum. When tightening with a regular screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not the plaster! This will ensure maximum strength of the future structure. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the “ill-fated” place needs to be puttied, and a new fastener should be placed at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.
The type of self-tapping screws for drywall should be selected depending on the material used to construct the sheathing. For a metal frame, universal or metal screws are required, for wooden sheathing - wood products.
How to properly tighten a screw that has been removed?
The unscrewed part must be re-tightened exactly as it was before. It is very important that the screw fits into the same groove, at the same angle. If the product “draws” a “new path” for itself, the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an existing recess? Simply insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. There is no need to put pressure on a tight screw; you just need to remove it and try again. A little force is required only at the very end of screwing.
Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of “working hiccups”.