How a load-bearing wall is indicated in the technical data sheet. How to determine whether a wall is load-bearing or not: design features and house plan for designers What are load-bearing walls?

Getting started major renovation or remodeling a house, you must first understand what load-bearing walls are and correctly determine where they are located in the house. After all, even an incorrectly executed small opening in a load-bearing wall threatens to result in partial or even complete destruction of the entire structure of the house.

How does a load-bearing wall differ from a regular partition?

The main difference by which you can accurately determine which partition is in front of you is the load it takes on. Regular interior partitions They don’t support anything and are loaded only by their own weight, which is why they are called self-supporting walls. Partitions that take on not only their own weight, but also part of the weight of the structures located above them: interfloor floor slabs, ceiling beams or the walls of the upper floors are load-bearing.

Therefore, cutting openings in load-bearing walls is strongly discouraged, and completely demolishing them is strictly prohibited - this can cause the destruction of the house. Self-supporting walls perform exclusively separating and decorative functions, so if necessary, they can be rebuilt without problems and even completely removed - the strength and stability of the house will not suffer from this.

But, having an idea of the difference between the walls, you also need to know how to determine the load-bearing wall. The easiest way to see this is on the house plan - it is enough to have at least minimal skills in reading such documents. But there are often times when a plan cannot be found. In this case, such a wall can be identified by the following criteria:

location;
thickness.

Regardless of the construction material, almost all external walls are load-bearing. They will also be partitions facing the flight of stairs. In the vast majority of cases, partitions separating neighboring apartments also fall under this definition.

In many cases, the purpose of a wall can be determined by its thickness, although there are many nuances here. IN brick houses all walls with a thickness of 380 mm and more are load-bearing. The calculation is simple: the width of one standard brick is 120 mm, the laying joint is 10 mm. Accordingly, 3x120 mm = 360 mm + 2 seams of 10 mm each - another 20 mm, and in the end - 380 mm.

Standard interior partitions in a brick house are made of 1-1.5 bricks, i.e. their thickness does not exceed 180 mm. Most difficult option, if their thickness is 250 mm (this often happens in houses built according to individual projects after 1990). In this case, you cannot do without the involvement of a specialist, since only he will be able to figure out what functions such a partition performs. Important nuance— the thickness of the walls should be taken without a finishing layer.

In panel and block houses, all walls with a thickness of 140 mm or more are load-bearing. The thickness of interior partitions is only 80-100 mm, but they are panel apartments very little. In fact, in such houses, almost all the walls are load-bearing, so it is very difficult to remodel such apartments, especially at your own discretion. It happens, although rarely, that the thickness of interior partitions in a panel house is 120 mm. In this case, there is no other choice but to find out from specialists which partitions can be rebuilt and which cannot.

The situation is much better with apartments in Khrushchev buildings. When constructing it is used standard scheme: the load-bearing walls in the “Khrushchev” are all longitudinal, and the partitions are all transverse. In such houses, the wall separating the balcony from the living room does not experience much load and can be dismantled.

How to make an opening in a load-bearing wall?

In carriers internal partitions arrangement of any opening is undesirable, but still often they have to be done, for example, to install interior door. However, the number, size and location of these openings are calculated by specialists at the house design stage.

If during redevelopment it becomes necessary to make an opening in a load-bearing wall, then under no circumstances should you do it yourself. Firstly, this is very dangerous, and secondly, in the future, an apartment with a “leftist”, illegal redevelopment will be impossible to sell, donate, or register an inheritance for, and it will be almost impossible to legitimize and receive the project.

Therefore, if you decide to remodel your apartment, then first obtain all the necessary permits and approvals from the relevant government services.

If during work there is a need for some manipulations with the load-bearing wall, then it is necessary to involve specialists to carry them out. And to carry out partial dismantling (if you need to make a new door or window opening in a load-bearing wall), you need to invite an engineer from a company specializing in such work (and having the appropriate permits and licenses), concluding a written agreement with her.

Such specialists know exactly how to properly dismantle part of the partition, how to strengthen its strength in order to prevent destruction, in which cases it is necessary to install additional support, and in which cases a horizontal metal or reinforced concrete lintel can be used. Therefore, the chances that everything will be fine in the end are very high. And it is also important that in the event of poor quality work, you still have the opportunity to demand compensation for damage through the court.

As a conclusion

When deciding whether to remodel a house yourself or not, remember that the slightest mistake in calculations and performing such work puts at risk not only your life, but also the lives of your loved ones, and if it comes to a high-rise building, then the lives of many of your neighbors, because even a barely noticeable microcrack in a load-bearing wall can cause the collapse of the entire house, and restoring the solidity of such a wall often costs much more than all the work on remodeling the house.

You need to understand what kind of wall is in front of you. Learn how to determine a load-bearing wall inside a home.

Remember that dismantling or partial destruction is strictly prohibited. In some cases it is allowed to do doorway, but everything must be with the permission of the relevant authorities.

Before you start looking for a load-bearing wall, try to find documents with the layout of the building. They contain all the clues pointing to one or the other. So, you need to remember how many times the building was reconstructed and whether it was carried out at all. During reconstruction, anyone already questions all previous drawings with the original layout of the building. In addition, sometimes reconstruction involves adding a new façade to the house. Then the old ones can become internal.

Many sites offer redevelopments in houses of one series or another. At the same time, the “creators” of such architectural projects do not always take into account what will be demolished inside the house. Of course, partial destruction of the carrier does not always lead to disastrous consequences. Sometimes 5–10 years pass from the moment of dismantling, after which the floor above begins to become covered with “patterns” of cracks. It all depends on the age of the building and its condition.

In any case, the most simple option How to determine which wall is load-bearing is to contact a professional construction company. One way or another, there are a number of definitions of load-bearing walls for houses of one type or another. Let's look at them below.

We are looking for a load-bearing structure in a panel house

The most common residential buildings are panel type houses. Depending on the series of the house, the location of the load-bearing structures is different. In any case, there are significantly more of them than partitions. One of the most important determinations is thickness measurement. So, remember that its main significance is for partitions in panel houses is 80–100 mm, but the load-bearing ones can be 120, 140, 160, 180 and 200. When measuring the thickness, it is worth taking into account and. It must either be removed where the wall was measured, or subtracted from the result obtained.

In 80% of cases, the partitions of panel houses are 80 mm thick. Thus, we attribute everything that is thinner than 120 to partitions, but if the measurements are higher than the indicated figure, then the walls are load-bearing. Of course, it may happen that the figure turns out to be 120 mm. Then you should use the services of engineers who developed the layout of the house. One way or another, even if you yourself determine that this wall can be dismantled, you will need a technical opinion from engineers. Only on its basis are any redevelopments allowed.

Looking for a carrier in a brick house

Now let's talk about the old ones brick buildings. have different thickness depending on the number of bricks in the masonry. The length of a standard brick is 120 mm. Seams between brickwork have an indicator of 10 mm. Thus, if it consists of two rows of bricks, then the value will be calculated as follows: 120 + 120 + 10 = 250 mm. According to further calculations, it can be in size: 380 mm (three rows of 120 and two seams of 10), 510 mm (four rows of 120 and three seams of 10), 640 mm (five rows of 120 and four seams of 10).

Now we explain the load-bearing wall in a brick house. And everything is extremely simple: again, by measuring. The walls in such houses separating the apartments are partitions and have a thickness of 250 mm (double masonry). The usual partitions between rooms are either 80 or 120. The remaining walls are load-bearing - they can be 380, 510, 640 and higher.

By the way, there are old houses with wooden floor. They can even be carriers wooden partitions. Initially they did not perform such a function, but later became a support for the floors above.

We are looking for a load-bearing structure in a monolithic house

Monolithic houses have a huge variety of layouts. Here you can only be sure that there is a partition in front of you. Therefore, if possible, you will need to find a house project, and also be sure to consult with an engineer from the developer.

Although you can again resort to the method of determining load-bearing walls by measuring the thickness. The value can be 200, 250, 300 and higher. Having measured it, do not rush to make hasty conclusions. So, if its thickness is less than 200 mm, then this means by 99% that you have measured the partition. But if this figure, for example, is 200 mm, then this does not always confirm the opposite. The fact is that monolithic houses involve the use of foam blocks, which are special kind partitions.

Conclusion

Redevelopment of an apartment involves either the construction of additional walls or the destruction of existing ones. Most often, during this, the walls are destroyed, thereby increasing the living space. This cardinal decision simply necessary, since this is the only way to expand the home, make it more comfortable; also, with the help of redevelopment, many connect the kitchen with the living room or enlarge the bedroom due to the loggia. The only problem during renovation is how to determine the load-bearing walls in the house correctly. This information is important, and therefore you need to familiarize yourself with it, which is what we will do in the article.

What is a load-bearing wall?

First, find out what a load-bearing wall is and where it is located. Load-bearing walls perform an important task - they maintain the integrity of the entire structure. Columns and beams sometimes act as load-bearing elements, but this does not change their purpose. Since all elements of the roof and ceiling structure rest on the wall, it is important to know during redevelopment how to determine the load-bearing wall in the house.

If you demolish it, it can lead to bad consequences, starting with cracks appearing on the house and ending with complete destruction of the structure. Unlike those carrying ordinary interior walls They hold only their own weight and also perform a separating function. To renovation work passed safely and correctly, you should contact specialists for help. Only they know how to determine whether a wall is load-bearing or not.

Do not forget about the special permit for redevelopment, which is issued by specialists from the technical inventory bureau. It will indicate which walls can be destroyed and modified, and which are prohibited.

Methods for determining load-bearing walls

There are several ways to determine whether a house has a load-bearing wall or not. Accurate and easy to do is to study the structural plan of a house. This document is under control capital construction. Also, do not forget about the existence of a technical passport. If the apartment owner knows how to read construction drawings, it will not be difficult for him to determine the load-bearing wall in the house.

Load-bearing walls are often determined by their thickness and location. When measuring, you must first remove the wallpaper, clean the surface from old plaster. Only after this can measurements begin. The parameters of load-bearing walls are different for all houses, for example:

The load-bearing walls in a brick house are thirty-eight centimeters thick. The more bricks laid, the greater the thickness.
In panel houses the situation is slightly different. Here, all walls exceeding fourteen centimeters are load-bearing. In such a house, redevelopment is difficult and almost impossible. After all, most of the walls in a panel house are load-bearing.
IN monolithic houses walls thicker than twenty centimeters are load-bearing. In houses, it is quite difficult to determine the load-bearing wall thickness. Therefore, it is easier to take a general floor plan from the developer.

All form the basis of the building, being supporting.

Openings

Once the load-bearing walls in the apartment are determined, certain restrictions associated with redevelopment will appear. It is impossible to completely demolish a load-bearing wall. It is better to make an opening or niche in it - this is a safer option. The number of openings in load-bearing walls is limited.

If it is necessary to make an opening in such a design, it is better to seek help from professionals. Carrying out such work on your own is dangerous, and without special permits and papers with the redevelopment done, such an apartment will become a burden.

There are situations when partial demolition of a load-bearing wall is necessary. In this case, you cannot do without an engineer. Even a small window or door opening requires appropriate permits and licenses.

Only true professionals in their field will be able to not only make an opening in a load-bearing wall, but also increase its strength. This will help avoid its destruction. A metal or reinforced concrete lintel is used to support the wall.

Load-bearing walls in a panel house

Most panel houses have a standard code for the project according to which they were built. Therefore, before you begin redevelopment, you need to know how to determine the load-bearing wall in a panel house.

To find load-bearing walls in a panel house, you can use the database of these structures. It makes it possible to see the layout of apartments from each series and choose your home using the code. Another way is to measure the walls. The thickness of self-supporting walls in a panel house ranges from 80 millimeters to 1 meter, while the thickness of load-bearing walls ranges from 140 to 200 mm. The higher the indicator, the greater the likelihood that it is a load-bearing wall. It is important to remember that demolishing it in a panel house will lead to the destruction of the building.

How to find out if the load-bearing material is made of brick?

To find out how to determine a load-bearing wall in a brick house, you need to add the thickness of the vertical mortar joint to the size of the brick. That is, the thickness depends on how many bricks are supplied. Brick walls can be 120, 250, 380 mm thick, and so on, plus finishing layers.

Bearers brick walls have a thickness of three hundred eighty millimeters or more. If itself bearing structures made of gypsum concrete panels and bricks, then in this case the interior partitions will be 250 mm. Thus, load-bearing walls in brick houses have a thickness of 380 mm. If during measurements the thickness is less than 380 mm, then such a wall is an ordinary partition. Find brick houses series is more difficult than panel ones, since there are much fewer of them.

Load-bearing walls in Khrushchev

All Khrushchev buildings were built according to the same type. They have three load-bearing walls and additional transverse ones, which serve as support for the load-bearing ones and prevent them from tipping over. This list also includes the transverse walls of the staircase. They hold not only load-bearing structures, but also flights of stairs, thus, also become load-bearing.

How to determine a load-bearing wall in brick apartment? Can it be dismantled or not? The slabs that are located between floors are supported by load-bearing or transverse reinforced concrete walls and beams.

If speak about modern buildings, then studio apartments are very popular. In such rooms, many manage without redevelopment, simply dividing the space with furniture. To from ordinary apartment to make smart housing, you need to completely or partially dismantle the walls, leaving only the box. However, such global changes will negatively affect the integrity of the building, especially if it is old.

How to find a load-bearing wall in a monolithic house?

Are you interested in how to determine whether a wall is load-bearing or not in a monolithic house? These buildings have a variety of architectural and design features. They combine conventional load-bearing walls, columns, beams and columns rectangular section. The thickness of load-bearing walls is 200-300 mm, and the thickness of columns in monolithic houses is an order of magnitude higher. All walls having a thickness of less than 200 mm are considered partitions.

When we're talking about about new buildings, it is easy to determine the load-bearing structures simply by examining them. They are clearly visible because they are made of reinforced concrete. Holes sealed with mortar can also be seen on the load-bearing walls.

What can you do with a load-bearing wall?

As is already known, the structure is the basis of the building and holds the main load; it must be handled carefully and carefully. Before determining whether a wall is load-bearing or not, it is worth finding out what actions are prohibited in relation to it:

It cannot be completely demolished, as this will affect the stability of the entire structure.
It is prohibited to move it to another place.
It is prohibited to install wiring or conduct communications in it.

Despite these prohibitions, a load-bearing wall is not untouchable; you can make a doorway in it, create an arch or partition between rooms, or drill through it.

How to coordinate redevelopment

Before carrying out redevelopment, it is necessary to obtain permission from the relevant authorities. Since residents do not always correctly determine the type of wall covering or dismantle the load-bearing wall, these approvals are mandatory. Therefore, the question of how to determine a load-bearing wall can play a bad joke with residents.

Do not neglect the rules, otherwise the construction will become illegal and the owner will be fined. It follows from this that it is better to spend time on official authorities and obtain all permissions than to suffer from mistakes made.

If you are deciding whether to redevelop a room or not, you should remember that even a harmless error in calculations when performing this work can provoke serious problems. By doing this, you risk your life and the lives of other household members.

Since it is not always possible to determine the type of load-bearing wall, it is better to use the services of a specialist. However, having decided to do the work yourself and knowing how to determine where the load-bearing walls are, be extremely careful and vigilant, because you already know what this entails possible deviation in calculations or reasoning regarding the type of wall covering and its nature.

When a house is built, it has both load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls. The difference between them, as you can imagine, is that some of them are responsible for supporting the entire structural weight of the structure, while others, so-called "curtain" or "curtain walls", are used solely to divide rooms into rooms and do nothing. support. Before making any changes to the walls of your home, it is important to be Very Be sure which walls are and are not load-bearing, since demolition or changes to load-bearing walls can affect the structural stability of your home with potentially catastrophic consequences. Start with Step 1 below to begin your search for load-bearing walls in your home.

Steps

Part 1

Looking for structural clues

Start from the lowest point in your home. To determine which walls in your home are load-bearing, it is best to start where the main load is applied, with the most basic part of your home - the foundation. If your home has a basement, start here. If not, try starting on the first floor, where you can locate the lowest concrete "slab".

When you are at the very bottom of your building, look at the walls where the beam system rests directly on the foundation. The load-bearing walls of your home transfer the tension of their structure to the solid concrete foundation, so any walls that are located directly on the foundation should be considered load-bearing and cannot be demolished.
Besides, external walls Most houses are load-bearing. You can see this at the foundation level - whether they are made of wood, stone or brick, almost all exterior walls rest directly on the foundation.

Determine the location of the beam system. Look for thick, durable posts made of wood or metal called beams. They carry most of the load of your home, transferring it to the foundation. Beams often span many floors and can therefore be part of several walls. If your beam extends from the foundation inside any wall above it, that wall must be considered load-bearing and cannot be demolished.
- With the exception of rooms that are not yet finished, most of the beams will be behind the trim. So be prepared to check construction documents or contact the builder if you can't find them. The easiest place to find beams is in the basement or attic where they are not covered.
Look for beams interfloor ceilings(floor crossbars). Look at the point where the beam meets the ceiling (if you're in a basement, this will be under the first floor of your home. If you're on the first floor, this will be the bottom of the second floor floor). You should see long supports running the entire length of the ceiling, called floor crossbars because they support the floor of the room above you. If any such beam meets a wall or main load-bearing beam at a right angle, it transfers the weight of the upper floor to the wall, which means the wall is load-bearing and, accordingly, cannot be demolished.
- Again, because most of the beams supporting the walls are covered with trim, they will not be visible. To determine whether any interfloor joists are perpendicular to a particular wall, it may be necessary to remove some floorboards from the floor above near the wall so that you can look down on their supports.
View the interior walls of the entire structure. Starting with a basement (or, if you don't have one, the first floor), determine the location of the interior walls, which, as you probably guessed, are the walls inside the boundaries of your four exterior walls. Trace each interior wall through every floor of your home - in other words, pinpoint where the wall is in relation to the floor below, then work your way up to see if the wall extends through two floors. Pay attention to what is directly above the wall. If there is another wall on top, a floor with perpendicular beams, or another heavy structure, then it is probably a load-bearing wall.
- However, if there is a room with unfinished finishing, for example, an empty attic, and not a whole floor, most likely the wall is not heavily loaded.
Check the interior walls approximately in the center of the house. How bigger house, the further apart its load-bearing walls will be and, therefore, the more internal load-bearing walls you will need to support the floor. Often these interior load-bearing walls are located approximately in the center of the house, as this is the farthest point from any exterior wall. Look for an interior wall that is near the approximate center of your home. There is a good chance that the wall is load-bearing, especially if it is parallel to the central beams supporting the basement vault.

Look for interior walls with solid edges. Internal load-bearing walls may contain the main beams supporting the house. However, due to the fact that support beams are relatively large in cross-section compared to unloaded beams, often the wall itself will be designed so that the dimensions of the beams protrude from it. If interior wall has a large rectangular section or columns protruding beyond its plane at the ends; large support beams supporting the structure of the building can be hidden in them, that is, these are signs of a load-bearing wall.

Search steel beams or pile-beam structures. Sometimes, rather than relying on load-bearing interior walls, builders use special load-bearing structures, such as steel support beams and pile-and-beam structures, to transfer some of the building's weight to the exterior walls. In these cases there is a chance (but Not guarantee) that the nearest internal walls will not be load-bearing. Look for signs of large, sturdy wooden or metal structures that cross the ceiling of a room and extend onto a wall that is known to be load-bearing or external, such as three-dimensional horizontal projections that cross the ceiling. If you see them, the nearest interior walls can don't be load-bearing.
- This method can tell you where non-load-bearing walls might be, but you can't be sure without checking the walls themselves. If you are unsure, ask the builder to be sure that the house was built this way.
Look for signs that the house has been remodeled. Many houses, especially old ones, have been changed, expanded and rebuilt several times. If this applies to your home, a former exterior wall may now be an interior wall. If this is the case, then the innocent-looking interior wall may turn out to be load-bearing for the original structure. If you have any reason to believe that your home has been seriously altered, best choice will contact the builder who did it, just to be sure that your external walls really external walls.

Part 2
Explore your building
1. Find the original building plans if you can access them. Depending on the structure of your home, it may be impossible to accurately guess which walls are load-bearing and which are not. In this case, the original drawings or construction plans can be a valuable resource. House drawings can tell you where support beams are located, which walls were originally exterior, and so on. You can use this information to make an informed decision when it comes to designating certain walls as load-bearing.
  - It's not uncommon for a homeowner to have a copy of the original blueprints for their home. Luckily, you can find them:
    - In the office of the relevant official structures (for example, BTI)
    - From former owners
    - From the original builder and/or contractor
  - In the end, you can pay an architect to draw the drawings of your house. Although it can be expensive.
2. Study your drawings. Obtain the original blueprints for your home and invest the appropriate time in determining whether a wall you are unsure about is actually load-bearing. Look for the landmarks listed above - does it contain a structural support beam? Are the floor beams attached parallel to it? Was she originally external wall? Never violate the integrity of a wall unless you are completely sure that it is not load-bearing, since even expensive, experienced home renovation experts cannot tell this based on a visual inspection alone. To get more detailed instructions Check out the wikiHow article How to Read Architectural Blueprints.
3. Understand the impact of changes on the building. Usually, the more new things have been added to the design of your home, the more difficult it is to tell which walls are load-bearing and which are not. During the reconstruction of a house, non-load-bearing walls can be made load-bearing (and vice versa). For example, extending or cutting ceiling beams, adding stairs, living rooms in the attic, as a rule, makes non-load-bearing walls non-load-bearing. Take these changes into account when deciding which walls you have load-bearing: if your drawings show walls that don't exist, or you see walls that aren't on the original drawing, you need to figure out what changes were made before you make your changes.
  - If you are unsure about your home's renovation history, contact the past owner and builders for more information.

Very often we are asked: which wall is load-bearing - and indeed, it is with this question that any redevelopment in the room begins. But why is this so important? The answer is simple - all walls in the room are divided into two categories: load-bearing walls and partitions. Moreover, if the partitions simply divide the room, then the load-bearing walls carry the load of the slabs. Load-bearing walls or only after drawing up and obtaining permission from certified professionals with SRO permits to carry out design work. If you make changes to the load-bearing capacity of the wall, then the whole house can fold like a card.

If the redevelopment of an apartment still entails a violation of the integrity of the load-bearing walls, then this should be done only after the redevelopment project has been developed by specialists with SRO approval. The partition walls, in turn, do not carry any load and can be dismantled at the discretion of the designer without any special permits.

Which wall is load-bearing in monolithic houses?

Unlike brick houses external walls in monolithic houses are not always load-bearing and therefore determining which wall is load-bearing in monolithic houses is the most difficult. Such houses are the most differentiated in terms of design and architectural solutions, here you can find not only load-bearing walls, but also load-bearing columns, load-bearing beams and pylons, including partitions built into the walls. However, as a rule, carriers concrete structures in monolithic houses they cannot be less than 200 mm in thickness; often this figure reaches 300 and even 350 mm including finishing. However, this is not a final indicator; for example, the thickness of walls in houses made of foam blocks can reach 300 mm or more.

The most reliable way to determine which wall is load-bearing is to request an archived plan of your premises from the developer or management company. Well, in the plan itself, load-bearing walls are always drawn thicker than partitions.

What is the load-bearing wall in panel houses?

Panel houses, as well as monolithic ones, have their own peculiarity: usually the load-bearing wall is solid from the basement to the roof; however, a panel house consists of boxes - rooms in which all the walls play a load-bearing role, with the exception of the outer walls whose task is to retain heat. However, here you can also find partitions, for example, the toilet and bathroom usually consist of partitions.

It is worth noting here that the thickness of the partitions in panel houses is quite small, about 80 - 100 mm. The thickness of load-bearing walls in panel houses starts from 120 and reaches 200 mm, so if the thickness of the wall you measure is greater, do not doubt that it is load-bearing. However, do not forget about finishing the wall; in some cases, a fairly large layer of plaster can be applied to the wall, in some cases up to 60 mm.

Which
wall
carrier
in Khrushchev?

All Khrushchev buildings were built according to the same standard projects in which one can be noted important detail: the scheme consists of three longitudinal load-bearing walls and walls transverse to them. The purpose of these walls is to ensure the stability of the entire structure of the house. Although the transverse walls are not load-bearing, they still carry the load and should be treated carefully. In other words, in order to determine which wall is load-bearing in a Khrushchev building, it is best to request information from the BTI or trust professionals to conduct an examination.

simple techniques
define
what kind of load-bearing wall:

The walls that overlook the flights of stairs are always load-bearing.
The partition between the bathroom and the toilet is most often not load-bearing. As well as a partition between the bathroom or toilet and the corridor.
Load-bearing walls are always the thickest in the apartment. However, this rule does not apply to walls made of foam concrete. Walls made of foam blocks are not load-bearing.
Interfloor slabs always rest on load-bearing walls; you just have to raise your head and look at the joints of the slabs to see how they are laid.
Contact the BTI in your area or management company your home and request architectural plan your house.

– We have been engaged in redevelopment for more than 10 years.
– We will help you do the redevelopment without spending extra money and time

– More than 70% of our orders are from clients who have already worked with us and still trust us. See for yourself.