How to install a wall between the steam room and the washroom. Partition between the sink and the steam room in the bathhouse. When is the best time to use brick?

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates rooms that are so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made from bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of one material or another depends, first of all, on what the bathhouse itself is built from. If it is a log house or frame construction, then it is better to use wood so as not to violate the overall concept, and for a brick bathhouse, brick is more suitable.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heating device located in the steam room. If we're talking about about traditional brick oven, then it is already a partition in itself. In this case, you just need to add it until a full wall is formed. In the case of an iron stove (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be either frame or made of ordinary boards.

In the photo - a brick oven and a brick partition

On a note! For a brick partition, it is recommended to use red brick, rather than silicate brick (the fact is that the latter is unburnt, which is why it is characterized by rather low thermal insulation and moisture resistance).

The design described below is wooden frame, lined with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Design features

Design features	Photo
The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm and the width – 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after the work is completed, which will isolate the tree from water.
This threshold can be constructed both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), or directly during installation, by constructing formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be covered with a deep primer and concrete contact (for example, produced by the Knauf company).
The base will be attached to the curb using anchors (1.6 cm). The outermost posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hexagonal screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the posts themselves be oval and longitudinal - this way the frame will not be an obstacle to the settlement of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.
The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, expansion or settlement of the log house when exposed to atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from floor to ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to standard sizes insulation slabs. The cotton wool should be covered on both sides with plastic film and secured with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be secured with clamps to a sheathing made of 2.5x5 cm planks. The sheathing itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed to the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the sheathing is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and secured only to the vertical supports.
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First, you need to install the skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are covered with platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).
The platband at the top of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it moves with it without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To “hide” the screw heads, stepped holes should be made in advance in appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1.In the opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut out using a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 2. Next, you need to install formwork to create a base for the structure, taking into account the doorway (94 cm). If the sink floor is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.

Step 3.The surface of the floor in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and deep primer. To make the connection more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer in dowels there and screw in the screws ½ way.

Step 4.After this, the formwork must be filled with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it needs to be covered with roofing felt in two layers.

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1.The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks need to be installed on the curb, marked and similar holes made there.

Step 2.The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Step 3.Next, the supporting frame of the structure is constructed. To do this, the outer racks (their dimensions are 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and secured with hexagonal screws. A washer is placed under each screw.

Step 4.An opening is made for the door frame - vertical posts are installed, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance on each side is 1 cm larger than the dimensions of the frame.

Step 5.Using wood screws, the frame jumper is attached.

On a note! At this stage Special attention attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design turns out.

Prices for wood screws

wood screws

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Installation of sheathing

Step 1.Mats need to be placed in the cells mineral wool. If necessary, the material is trimmed using a mounting knife.

Step 2.A plastic film is attached to it on both sides of the frame (this must be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3.The sheathing is installed at intervals of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed at the stage of assembling the frame - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. Door frame

Step 1. If the opening size is 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking verticality/horizontalness and fixing the frame to the racks, all gaps formed must be blown out polyurethane foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off using a mounting knife.

Step 2.Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard figure), open elements the opening is covered from the sink with planed boards 60x30 mm. In this case, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane that runs along the outer edges of the boards must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be done both after installation of the lining and before it. It is important that the joint between the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with extreme precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Cladding

Installation of the lining starts from the corner and is carried out using the “tenon and groove” technology. This means that the tenon of each subsequent sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the sheathing is done using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without heads (to avoid accidental burns) or with ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closing with pins.

Prices for lining

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Final finishing of the edges of the structure

Step 1.For the platbands, the same lining that was used for finishing is suitable. Using a circular saw, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(a radius cutter is used). The vertical casing joins the horizontal one strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2.The baseboards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is plank) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. There are platbands along the edges of the structure vertical type it is necessary to insert it into the grooves of the walls, and then attach it to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4.The planks installed at the top of the structure will serve only a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

On the picture - ceiling plinth in the steam room

The described option is suitable for a bathhouse that has already been settled and stood for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case the dimensions of the log house itself change. If complete settlement has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Ordinary boards can be used as cladding. Both they and the lining should be made only from hardwood, since coniferous wood releases resin at high temperatures. We also note that all beams in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

Platband prices

platbands

The partition in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use ½-brick spoon masonry (or, alternatively, a whole brick). Such a structure will weigh quite a lot, so to lighten it, you can use hollow bricks.

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all working surfaces. Removed from the floor plank covering right down to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further workplace equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed for work are removed from the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work you will need the following equipment:

sieve;
Sander;
shovel;
mixing tank.

Step 1.First you need to sift the sand to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine mesh chain-link mesh and 4 beams. The sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3.Mixing proportions – 3:1. First, you should fill in six buckets of sand and two of cement. Water is added and the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but there is no need to add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this stage you need the following tools:

level;
pick;
trowel;
plumb line;
rule.

Step, No.	Description	Illustration
Step 1.	The string is stretched - it will serve as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, and the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a little for the solution to set.
Step 2.	Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.
Step 3.	The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled with twine, and excess mortar is immediately removed.
Step 4.	If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have one), then it needs to be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal/verticality and, if necessary, its position is adjusted.
Step 5.	The brick is laid close to the box. To attach a partition to it or to wooden walls metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; You can also use reinforcing bars.
Step 6.	At the end of laying row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts using a pick. The second row begins with one of these halves. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.

On a note! Dressing the masonry is prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be more durable.

Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks previously soaked in concrete. The pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - Laying a partition of ½ brick

Foam blocks (made of gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with insignificant (compared to brick) weight, they have a O larger sizes, which means the laying will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned to be installed, but in most cases, products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The masonry procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Prices for foam blocks

foam blocks

Stage one. Marking

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markings, the first row of blocks is laid out “dry”, and if necessary, trimming is done. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a stone saw. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing (roofing felt is suitable) is placed in two layers.

Stage two. Installation

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The glue must be mixed with an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. The adhesive composition is applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, the verticality/horizontalness is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ the width of the product to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition meets the main walls, it is tied with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, and reinforcement with glue is inserted there to a depth of at least 50 mm. You can make recesses in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out from the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plastering, you can use the same adhesive solution that was used for laying. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. After plastering is completed, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

Plaster prices

plaster

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a partition made of foam blocks can be built directly on wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

When purchasing blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces are, the better the finishing will be.
The dimensions of the blocks depend on the installation location, while the density does not play any role.
It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
It is advisable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) between the partition and the ceiling, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks

Building a bathhouse with your own hands requires thoughtful and calibrated actions. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink is extremely important.

To build it, it is necessary to correctly distribute the space in the bathhouse and select the right materials. In general, the construction procedure is simple, but you will need to carefully follow the recommendations.

This article will discuss various types of partitions and materials that were used in their construction.

Why do you need a partition?

The partition can also have a decorative character, becoming a design element

This structure is extremely important for a bathhouse. It has the following advantages:

attractive appearance;
high strength;
good level of sound insulation.

In addition, the partition will provide in the steam room high temperature and comfort.

If there is no need for high thermal insulation, you can build a more simplified building. Below you can see a diagram of a bathhouse with a partition.

What is the partition made of? The choice of material is an extremely important stage of construction. The following options can be used:

tree;
brick;
concrete.

A brick partition is placed in the bathhouse if a metal stove is installed in it. For doubles optimal solution wooden structures will become.

Partition for a wooden bath

It is advisable to do in wooden bath wooden partitions

Such buildings are built from various types wood. Their assembly is carried out using the frame-panel method.

Experts do not recommend erecting brick partitions in a wooden bathhouse. Especially if the combustion will be carried out rarely. Since the thermal conductivity of wood and brick varies greatly, it will take a lot of time to heat the building, especially in the cold season.

It is better to make a partition between the steam room and the sink from different materials. If a similar material is used, but with a smaller connection, difficulties may arise in installing the connecting nodes.

The optimal solution for constructing an internal partition in a bathhouse would be to install a frame system.

Frame partition

The holes between the frame bars are filled with insulation

A frame partition in a bathhouse is best suited for wooden buildings. To build it, you will first need to assemble a frame from dried wooden blocks.

Their dimensions are 50 by 50 mm. The hole between the bars is closed with a heat insulator.

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

basalt wool;
foam board.

Protect the insulation from moisture with a layer of polyethylene

To protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture penetration, it is covered with a polyethylene film. Covering with a waterproofing membrane would also be a good solution, although its cost is significantly higher than polyethylene.

The use of decorative stone cladding is highly discouraged. Wooden structures inside the bathhouse will need to be treated with an antiseptic. This will prevent the formation of mold and mildew on the walls.

Construction of a brick partition

The brick partition is laid with spoon masonry

How to make partitions in a brick bath? This material is quite common and is often used for the construction of buildings in the bathhouse.

The construction is made using half-brick spoon masonry.

To make work easier, some specialists use hollow material.

Preparatory procedures

Before starting work, you need to carefully prepare the surface. The plank covering is removed from the floor to the very base, after which it is cleaned with a wet broom. The place where the construction will be carried out is equipped with good lighting. All foreign objects are removed from the premises and the outlines of the building are outlined.

To work you will need to prepare the following tools:

level;
sander;
trowel;
plumb line and rule;
cement-sand mortar. For more information about the construction of a partition, watch this video:

Creating a partition

The first row of bricks is laid on several layers of mortar

The process of erecting a brick partition consists of the following stages:

A string is stretched and used as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled using a trowel. The level checks horizontalness. You will need to wait until the solution begins to dry.
Another layer is applied on top of the dried mixture. After which the first row of brick screed is laid.
The mortar is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it is laid by pressing down. It is tapped and leveled according to the string; the remaining mixture will need to be removed immediately before it has time to dry.
If an opening for a door is planned in the partition, it will need to be positioned first. The door frame is installed using spacers. The evenness of its location is checked and, if necessary, this parameter is adjusted.
The brick is laid close to the box. To tie the partition together, special metal strips are used; they are folded and attached to the side surfaces between the bricks. Instead of strips, you can also use reinforcing rods.
After laying the first row is completed, the brick is divided into 2 parts with a pick. One half is used to start the second row. The string that served as a guide is moved higher so that you can easily navigate. Laying the third row is carried out in the same way as the first. For more information about the process, watch this video:

Tying the masonry is an extremely important stage of construction, which will evenly distribute the load on the structure and significantly increase its strength.

Building any kind of partition between the steam room and the sink is a rather labor-intensive procedure.

Not every beginner will be able to do this kind of work on their own.

But, as a result, this will ensure high level comfort in the bathhouse, which is why the construction of such elements has recently become popular.

There are several ways to build a partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink, for example, making it massive and thick to save heat and reduce energy consumption. In other schemes, it is proposed, on the contrary, to make the partition thin in order to warm up the washing compartment, thereby increasing the level of comfort in the room.

How to properly make partitions in a bathhouse

There are several ways to build a sauna, depending on the size of the sauna, the method of heating the steam room and the location of the stove itself. Modern baths built mainly in the same way as regular boxes houses. It’s simpler, the same design principles, layout and placement of partitions in the building. Especially it concerns brick baths and saunas built into the living area of the house or attached to the building, but connected to a water heating system. In this case, the partition between the steam room and the washing room is built according to the same scheme as the external walls.

What is the benefit of a properly assembled partition?

It’s another matter if the bathhouse building is built in a dacha or 20-30 m from the main residence. In this case, the problem of equipping partitions in the bathhouse is somewhat more complicated.

Therefore, in order to decide how to make partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands, you should count all the options and choose the right one, which will help you save firewood and, if possible, preserve the wooden building of the bathhouse:

If the size of the sauna and bathhouse is small, then a removable partition is often placed inside the steam room, separating the steam room from tanks with a supply of water for washing and closets with clothes. After completing the bath procedures, the frame of the partition in the bath is removed with your own hands, and the small space of the steam room is used as a washing compartment. The heat of the stove is enough to wash in the warmth and thoroughly dry the bath;
The second method is used for classic wooden log baths measuring 3x5 m or more. In this option, a frame or even brick partition with a minimal amount of thermal insulation is most often used;
The third option involves solid thermal insulation of the partition; it is used in timber, log and brick baths with two stoves and a boiler for hot water.

The first option is used quite rarely, most often it is baths Not large sizes, converted from wooden cabins. To raise the temperature in the steam room and reduce heat loss, the partition in the steam room is made with your own hands in the form of a curtain made of foamed polyethylene foil or ordinary tarpaulin.

The last version of the wall with good insulating properties is considered the most reliable and simplest to install. Therefore, an insulated partition in a brick bathhouse is always built with your own hands if the design of the steam room turns out to be large, but it is not possible to install a full-fledged “hurricane” stove. In this case, the joint part of the wall between the sink and the sauna should be built of brick with mandatory insulation surfaces from the sauna side.

What does using a thin wall give?

Building a thin, heat-conducting partition between the steam room and the sink is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. The difficulty is that, before making a wooden partition in the bathhouse, you need to accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation. If you make it thin, you can cool down the steam room. If you use thick mineral fiber-reinforced insulation, the sink area may end up damp and cold. Partitions in a bathhouse made of boards without thermal insulation are used mainly in dacha options steam rooms

IN winter time the small thickness of the wall ensures high-quality and quick heating of the walls and floor of the washing compartment, especially in cases where the walls and floor of the shower are lined tiles. In summer, too much heat comes from the thin partition, so you have to make special vents through which excess heat is removed.

Advice! If you don’t have the necessary experience and knowledge on how to make partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands, choose the third option for wall cladding with enhanced thermal insulation.

The result is a very warm and economical steam room, and the walls of the washing compartment can be dried with a special ventilation system, when a hot stream of air flows from the sauna through the cracks in the deck floor into the shower room. It turns out a little more complicated, but the steam room and washing compartment will dry completely in any weather.

Options for partitions for baths

Before you start design work, you need to decide on two conditions. First, you need to decide what to make the partitions in the bathhouse from. Secondly, choose a scheme for arranging the dividing line interior wall, select the dimensions and method of mating the partition and external walls.

Traditionally internal partitions the bathhouse is built in several ways:

Wooden partitions in a bathhouse are considered to be more preferable for DIY construction; they are easier to construct and cheaper. You can always add, rebuild or replace assembled wall without any significant damage to the steam room and washing compartment.

How to make a frame partition in a bathhouse

The dividing wall between the steam room and the washing compartment can be made in two ways. Most affordable option– build frame partitions in the bathhouse with your own hands with a compensating upper gap. A small gap is required to compensate for the loads that occur during heating and cooling of the bathhouse.

The second option is called a floating partition. Its essence lies in the fact that the structure is installed between two rooms on movable fasteners. As a result of increased humidity or temperature, the partition frame has the ability to move in the vertical direction without breaking the screws and fixing keys.

The choice of which partition to make in the bathhouse depends on the material from which the bathhouse box is built. The first method is used for buildings made of SIP panels, bricks, foam blocks, and profiled timber. The second option is used for wooden buildings. If the bathhouse is assembled from timber, then before you make a floating partition in the bathhouse yourself, it is better to check the amount of shrinkage of the room. If the process of setting up the crowns is completed, then you can choose a simpler stationary installation scheme for the wall.

Building a floating partition

The main idea of the unusual wall design is to install a partition without a rigid connection to the walls, ceiling and floor. Installation of the wall begins already at the final stage of bathhouse construction, when the concrete screed floor.

First of all, two concrete sills are laid on the floor; they will also act as a barrier so that water does not leave the washing compartment.

Along the contour of the grooves and the cut-out draft, side strips are sewn, which will hold the structure, seal the gaps between the walls and ceiling and at the same time serve as guides for the frame partition.

On the sides and at the bottom, the frame frame is attached to the wooden base of the threshold and guides using metal corners with a cut groove. Any expansion of the frame or its settlement will not lead to a break in the structure between the steam room and the washing compartment.

All that remains is to lay a vapor barrier, insulate the structure with mineral mats and cover the surface with linden clapboard.

Assembling a partition in a bathhouse made of timber

Making a wall separating the steam room and the washing compartment is considered the most difficult to do with your own hands. Most of the work has to be done at the stage of wall construction.

First of all, you will need to provide a support jumper on the foundation. In the case of using a concrete shallow tape, it will be necessary to fill in the contour of the future steam room, for piles and columnar foundations additional jumpers made of timber or channel are used.

A threshold made of treated timber is placed on the lintel, which will serve as the basis for the entire wall. The same threshold will serve as a supporting joist beam for future wooden floors.

If the wall between the steam compartment and the sink is long enough, then it is assembled by cutting, as is done when laying out crowns from logs or timber. This method is used in situations where the partitions in the bathhouse, photo, are made without doorways or brick inserts with a stove.

In this case, the partition in the bathhouse is built with a small gap between the upper crown and the ceiling, this is done for two reasons:

Compensate for the expansion of timber or log crowns under the influence of heat and moisture;
Ensure influx warm air from the steam room to the washing department.

Assembled from timber common wall do not insulate, tighten vapor barrier film and stuffed with clapboard.

If there is a doorway, timber wall, as in the case of frame partitions, are made according to a floating scheme. To do this, a cut is made on the adjacent walls to lay out the wall parts, and the door frame is secured in the opening to the ends of the logs or beams using self-tapping screws through the mounting grooves.

Brick wall between the steam room and the bathhouse

Using brick to build a dividing wall inside a log bathhouse looks rather strange, but in practice such a solution is considered competent and effective. Brick partition in a wooden bathhouse, as opposed to a frame structure:

Does not rot or become damp from condensation;
Can be used for take out back wall heaters inside the sink;
It perfectly transfers and distributes heat from the stove installed inside the steam room throughout the entire space of the shower room.

For your information! The latter quality turns out to be so valuable and convenient that the surface of the common wall on the side of the steam room is not covered with thermal insulation, but is lined with natural stone.

The only disadvantages of a brick partition in a bathhouse are its high heat capacity and the weight of the wall. This solution is ideal for a home bath and is not suitable for a steam room in the country or at suburban area. In winter, it will be quite difficult to quickly heat such a steam room.

The brickwork in the bathhouse is made of half a stone, that is, the cross-section of the wall does not exceed 12 cm. The construction of the future brick wall should be planned before laying the floors. If the base of the wall between the steam room and the sink cannot be installed independent foundation, then you will need to make a jumper between two powerful lag beams, reinforce them with crossbars and brick supports. Only in this case wooden structure will withstand the weight of masonry of several hundred kilograms.

To make the wall more stable, before starting work, a galvanized frame is assembled metal profile. This will help level, lay and keep the brick wall from tilting while masonry mortar won't set completely.

On the side of the steam room, the brick is covered with lathing, foil and thermal insulation are laid. If lining is sewn onto the surface of the common wall on the side of the washing compartment, then a vapor barrier can be omitted.

Conclusion

The dividing partition in the bathhouse, for all its simplicity, can seriously affect the characteristics paired department, the efficiency of the stove and the durability of the entire building. It is not difficult to make a dividing wall, even a floating one, but you will need good command of carpentry tools and knowledge of the basics of assembly wooden log houses and baths.

The division of the internal space of the bathhouse is carried out using partitions. We will tell you about their types, features and structure in this article.

Designing partitions in a bathhouse

Before making partitions in the bathhouse, you need to determine the area of the planned premises. Their sizes depend on the dimensions of the building and the number of regular visitors. Based on these data, the plan relates the bulkheads to the existing walls of the bathhouse, indicating the axial dimensions. Then the location of doorways and the number of required material.

The following can be used as partitions in a bath:

Transformable structures - sliding, soft folding, rigid doors, sliding and screens.
Stationary structures - brick, wood and glass partitions.

The type of planned partition depends on the requirements for it. If the space of the bathhouse is divided for a long time while ensuring reliable thermal and sound insulation of the premises, a durable stationary partition design is used. In other cases, you can get by with mobile or collapsible versions, for example, to separate the locker room from the bathhouse rest room combined with it.

Each type of stationary bath partition has a number of advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account when choosing the type and material of manufacture of a particular structure. Since the main part of the bath bulkheads is stationary, there is a need to talk about them in more detail.

Features of a brick partition in a bathhouse

Brick partitions are made not only in stone baths, but also in wooden log houses. This is especially true in cases where the furnace door of the furnace is removed from the steam room into the dressing room or rest room, and the dividing partition is combined with the heating device.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick partitions for baths

Their advantages are due to excellent physical characteristics:

Brick partitions have good soundproofing properties. Half-brick bulkhead structures have a “noise” insulation index of 47 dB.
Brick is a moisture-resistant material. With high-quality bath ventilation, the appearance of fungus and mold on such a partition is unlikely.
Brick bulkheads are fire resistant and inedible by insects and rodents.

The disadvantages include:

Significant weight of the partition: with its thickness of half a brick, the mass of 1 m 2 of masonry is approximately 280 kg.
Long production time for partitions made from piece material.
The need to plaster the structure before finishing it.

The cost of 1 m 2 of brickwork is from $10 and above, the cost of work is from $7 per 1 m 2.

Installing a brick partition in a bathhouse

To construct such a partition, half-brick or brick masonry is used. Before starting work, you should stock up on: a sand sieve, a container for preparing the solution, a shovel, a hammer, a plumb line, a level and a trowel.

The installation process is carried out in the following sequence:

The work site is cleared of unnecessary items and provided with lighting and necessary materials.
The contours of the planned partition are outlined on the walls, floor and ceiling of the bathhouse.
From sand and cement sifted using a sieve, a dry mixture is prepared in a ratio of 3:1, for example, 2 buckets of cement are taken for 6 buckets of sand. In the container, the resulting mixture is mixed with water until it becomes uniform and has a plastic consistency.
Before starting work, the floor must be removed wood covering, and from the walls - cladding at the junctions of structures. Surfaces are cleaned with a wet broom.
To lay the first row of masonry evenly, a cord is stretched along its edges, serving as a guide for the location of the bricks. The mortar of the first row is applied to the base of the partition, and the second and subsequent rows - to the surface of the previous row and the end part of the brick. The verticality of the masonry is controlled using a plumb line and a building level.
The door frame in the partition opening is placed in advance and secured in it with the help of spacers, the brick is laid close to it.
The partition is laid with ligation of the seams in the vertical direction. To achieve this effect, the second row of bricks must be started by laying half of the product.
To ensure the strength of the masonry, every five rows of the mortar bed are reinforced with steel strips or rods.
Above door frame As a jumper, you can install a piece of channel 30-40 cm longer than the width of the opening.
The ceiling gap on the last row of masonry is eliminated by laying waste bricks soaked in mortar, small cracks are sealed with tow.
To lay communications in a brick partition, it is necessary to provide for the installation of embedded sleeves. The material for them can be pieces plastic pipes length corresponding to the thickness of the partition. The voids between the sleeves and the masonry are filled with polyurethane foam.

If the brick partition located in the bathhouse needs to be plastered, you don’t have to pay attention to the masonry seams. But if it will serve as a natural element of the design of the room, it is required to special tool jointing of masonry with special care.

On the side of the washing compartment, the partitions are usually covered with tiles, which protect the brick from moisture. In the steam room, such a partition is insulated, sheathed with foil heat-reflecting and waterproof material, and then lined with natural wood.

Features of a wooden partition in a bathhouse

Wooden bulkheads can be single, double or framed. For baths, due to their “extreme” operating conditions, frame-sheathing structures are more suitable.

Pros and cons of wooden partitions for a bath

The advantages of such partitions are very significant:

The material used to make them is environmentally friendly.
The possibility of making a frame partition in the bathhouse with increased strength that can withstand more than 150 kg of load.
Lightweight wooden partition. With a thickness of 150 mm, the weight of 1 m 2 of the structure is 90-92 kg.
Good sound insulation, its index reaches 41 dB.

There are also disadvantages:

Wooden structures are afraid of water, so they need waterproofing.
The material of the partitions is edible for rodents and insects; impregnation of wood with antiseptics can eliminate this problem.
Wooden partitions are flammable, their fire resistance is 0.2 hours. Partial protection against fire is impregnation of the partition elements with a fire retardant.

The cost of 1 m 2 of wooden partition ranges from $20 and above, it depends on the cladding material.

Construction of a wooden partition in a bathhouse

Let's consider the construction of a wooden partition between the steam room and the sink in the bathhouse. The step-by-step process looks like this:

Assembly and fastening of the frame. This is the most labor-intensive stage of the work. For the frame, timber 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm is used, its assembly is carried out on site. Two bars for the ceiling and floor, with a length of each of them corresponding to the width of the partition, are fixed to the corresponding structures using dowels. The same should be done with the bars for the walls. They are cut to the height of the room and fixed between the floor and ceiling bars in increments of 600-120 mm. The doorway is formed using transverse bars. For rigidity, it is additionally equipped with intermediate posts on both sides.
Insulation of the partition. Insulation is placed between the frame posts. The material for it can be basalt wool with a thickness of its slabs of 50 mm and a width of 600 mm.
On the insulation side of the steam room, the frame is sheathed with foil, the heat-reflecting side of which should face the inside of the room. The material is stapled to the frame posts. The seams between the panels are taped with metal tape.
On the side of the washing compartment of the bathhouse, the insulation is covered with an Izospan-type waterproofing membrane. Its fastening and sealing of seams is carried out similarly to the previous option.
Partition lining. For getting ventilation gap Between the back side of the future sheathing and the waterproofing layer, thin slats 15 mm wide are placed across the racks. The lining is attached to them. The same operation is performed from the side of the steam room using foil material. All wooden elements the frame must be treated with an antiseptic.

Such a wooden partition in a bathhouse can be installed in one day.

Features of a glass partition in a bath

Unlike Soviet times, today's glass partitions are a fashionable design element with a variety of decorative solutions.

Advantages and disadvantages of glass partitions

Modern glass partitions in a bathhouse can be made from glass blocks - a kind of transparent “bricks” made of glass 6-10 mm thick. Their surface can be corrugated, smooth, matte, transparent and colored.

Manufacturing glass partitions has certain advantages:

The partitions look impressive, are durable, strong enough, and fire resistant.
They have good heat and sound insulation characteristics.
They transmit light, for transparent blocks this value is up to 80%, for matte and colored products - up to 50%. The patterns of corrugated blocks give a bizarre play of light and shadow.
The material of glass partitions can withstand temperature changes from -40 to +50 degrees. In the event of a fire, a structure made of transparent blocks can contain the spread of smoke and flame for two hours.
Glass partitions are easy to clean and do not absorb odors; they are not afraid of rodents and insects.

Despite the outstanding advantages, there are also disadvantages of glass partitions:

The internal surface of the partitions excludes the laying of any communications - electrical wiring, plumbing, etc.
On glass wall You cannot hang shelves or pictures.
A separate block is not cut when installing the partition.

The cost of glass blocks depends on their type. Industrial products are the cheapest, their price is 40-60 rubles/piece. Colored blocks are more expensive - 160 rubles/piece. The most expensive are blocks with a pattern obtained by sintering glass different colors. Their price is more than 1500 rubles/piece. The cost of installing a partition is more than $20 per 1 m2.

Installation of a glass partition in a bathhouse

Installation glass partition for a beginner - not an easy task. Used for laying glass blocks cement-sand mortars with a fine fraction of filler or “liquid” nails. There are two installation methods: adhesive cement mortar and into modular cells.

The first method is like leading brickwork, it is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming:

The base is cleaned of dust, debris and dirt, and then leveled.
The first row of blocks is set by level. Plastic crosses are placed between them to create seams of the same thickness.
The masonry is reinforced horizontally and vertically with iron rods with a diameter of 6 mm through two blocks. It is recommended to lay no more than 3 rows per day due to the weight of the products - the damp lower seams of the masonry may shift due to the weight.

Working second the way it goes faster. Cellular grids made of plastic, MDF or wood are attached to walls, ceilings and floors. They are then filled with blocks using sealant or rubber gaskets.

How to make a partition in a bathhouse - watch the video:

The question of bath partitions is quite extensive. We hope that the information provided in the article will help you choose a material and even make a partition in the bathhouse with your own hands.

If you bought a bathhouse project or drew it yourself with your own hands, then most likely you thought about the layout of the rooms (layout). The number of partitions, of course, depends on the number of rooms. There are at least two of them in the bathhouse: a steam room and a washing room. Partitions can be made immediately during the construction of the log frame from the same material as the walls (timber, logs, brick). But you need to keep in mind that such a partition requires a foundation the same as for the main walls, which in turn will lead to a significant increase in the cost of the bathhouse. The process of erecting such a partition is no different from erecting walls.
After construction, such partitions must be well caulked for better noise and heat insulation, and openings can be cut only after the entire frame has settled. If a rounded log or laminated veneer lumber is used to build a partition, then such a wall does not require additional interior finishing.

The easiest and most inexpensive way to make partitions in a bathhouse with your own hands is to use frame technology construction. To do this, you need to purchase 50 by 100 mm bars for the frame itself, insulation based on stone-mineral wool, vapor barrier and the actual finishing material, such as lining. Before installing the partition, the floors in the bathhouse must already be done. We mark the location of the wall on the floor and fasten to the floor with long screws (102 mm) or nails (120 mm) the bottom block on which the vertical bars will rest.
We nail or screw a vertical post to the wall level on one and the other side of the wall, leaving a gap of five centimeters at the top for the top bar. We place the top beam on the vertical bars and fasten it to ceiling beams self-tapping screws. In this way, in the future, when installing the following vertical racks, we don’t have to constantly monitor the vertical of the wall, but simply attach the racks to the top and bottom beam. Now let's mount vertical beams door opening and fasten them using galvanized corners. The following vertical beams must be placed at a distance of one centimeter less than the width of the insulation for a tighter fit. Standard insulation has dimensions of 60 cm by 100 cm, which means that the distance between the beams must be 59 cm. A larger distance between the beams should not be made, as this will reduce the strength of the partition. Vertical beams can be attached to the top beam using galvanized metal corners or using 150 mm nails. To avoid cracking of the timber when fastening it with a screw or nail, it must be drilled with a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the fastener (screw or nail). After installing the frame, we tightly stretch the vapor barrier on one side of the wall and make a lathing for installing lining or other finishing material, such as drywall. For sheathing, lining sawn lengthwise or sawn lengthwise is suitable edged board. A width of five centimeters is quite enough for a sheathing bar. Now you can lay the insulation, in this case 10 cm thick, or in two layers of 5 cm, but in this case it is necessary to cover the joints. When laying insulation in a bathhouse with your own hands, you must use the following products: personal protection and use a respirator. We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier and make a sheathing. You should not use oilcloth or cellophane instead of a vapor barrier, as this can lead to the insulation getting wet from condensation that will form in the bathhouse due to temperature changes. The side of the partition that is in the washing room can be sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard and placed on it ceramic tiles or mosaic. On the steam room side, the partition must be sheathed with clapboard not made of coniferous species wood, as it contains a lot of resin. To decorate a steam room in a bathhouse, lining made of linden or abasha is suitable.
For a rest room, a regular pine lining or a House block is suitable. Sometimes the walls in the steam room are additionally covered with foil material, but this is only necessary for longer heat retention. If you caulk well and insulate the outside of the bathhouse yourself, with your own hands, then the heat will not go anywhere for a long time, and the tree will “breathe” better.

It is better to make part of the partition in the bathhouse near the stove out of brick.
To do this you need to fill concrete base, which you can do with your own hands wooden beams. A wall thickness of half a brick will be sufficient. When laying bricks, you need to pay attention to the vertical and horizontal lines of the wall. Completely do brick walls It is not worth it in a wooden bathhouse. This is a high cost of material and such a wall requires a full foundation.

Wooden partitions easily accommodate all necessary communications: electrical wiring, water pipes. Partitions in a wooden bath should be made of natural material, such as a tree.