How to install a heating battery in an apartment. Installing a heating radiator with your own hands: photos and videos. Prices for bimetallic radiators

High-quality heating is the key favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and ineffective radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it is worth replacing it. At first glance, this seems very difficult work, accessible only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the right attitude and the availability of some tools, installing heating radiators with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Installing heating batteries with your own hands

Rules for battery location and connection diagrams

In addition to the characteristics of the radiator itself and the correctness of its connection, one of the most important factors influencing the efficiency of the heating system is the choice right place for product placement. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery will most likely stand in place of the old cast-iron one, which has been there since the building was built. But still, here are some recommendations for proper placement of the radiator.

How to install a radiator yourself

Firstly, it is advisable to place the battery under a window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which the cold from the street enters the apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of “thermal curtain” that interferes with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width.

Secondly, there should be at least 80-120 mm from the floor to the radiator. If there is less, then cleaning under the battery will be inconvenient; great amount dust and debris. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires heating and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, too short a distance to the windowsill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is smaller, the processes of convection and movement of warm air flows are disrupted, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes some of the heat.

All of the above principles for placing a heating battery are presented in the diagram above

Table. Standard schemes connecting heating batteries.

Installing heating batteries with your own hands - detailed step-by-step instruction!

Find out how to install heating batteries yourself! Requirements, choice of location, step-by-step installation instructions, tips, photos + video.

Installing heating radiators with your own hands is a decision that should be taken seriously: not every person can do it. At the very least, it is imperative to prepare for such a process. Usually, if you just look at the situation amateurishly, you can end up with negative emergency consequences.

Installation of heating radiators

If you live in an apartment in a multi-storey building, then it is best to call specialists for this, since there is a risk of flooding not only your apartment. In a private house, you can try to install and install homemade heating radiators with your own hands - however, to do this you need to understand the main points of installation.

Preliminary preparation

First, you need to decide what type of wiring was used to install the heating system. Those who arranged it should know this - one-pipe or two-pipe wiring.

And before you start installing heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to find out which heating circuit is single-pipe or double-pipe.

After all, the choice of parts and their quantity will depend on the wiring diagram of your heating system, photos of the diagrams below.

Single pipe heating system

Two-pipe heating system

What you need for installation

Depending on what design features has a heating system, the number and list of parts required for installation will depend. For example, if it is a single-pipe heating system, then a bypass will be required. In case of problems, it will be possible to turn off only the device that has this element, and there will be no need to shut down the entire system - this is especially true in winter situations, when it is not very convenient to turn off the heating in cold weather.

The number of parts for installation is also determined by the connection diagram and type of radiators. Couplings, adapters, angles and nipples are selected according to the diagram.

Also, installing a heating battery yourself will require shut-off valves. You need to select the type of radiator fittings; you should not get carried away with complex ball valves with the so-called “American” valves, which require professional knowledge. And it will be difficult to ensure tightness without much experience in this area. To connect heating radiators to the pipeline with your own hands, you will need bends that will correspond to the dimensions of the radiator and threaded pipes. A sleeve will also be screwed onto the leads - after twisting, it is inserted into the battery. It is worth noting that when you buy cast iron batteries heating, then before installation you need to check whether the brackets match the material of the wall on which they will be mounted.

Installation of shut-off valves

To be able to bleed air from the battery, you need to install a Mayevsky tap on it. As a rule, it is included in the factory configuration, but if not, then buy it.

Calculating the location

Those who are planning to install a heating radiator with their own hands should take into account that the sections of pipes that lead to the devices must be placed with a slope (slight) - in the direction of movement of the coolant. If the gasket is strictly horizontal or there is a skew in the installation, then air will concentrate in the batteries made of cast iron and steel. You will have to regularly blow it out manually so that the heat transfer does not decrease.

It is better if the central axis of the battery coincides with the axis that goes through the center of the window.

Deviations can be no more than 2 cm, such that will not be determined visually. But such a recommendation does not apply to strict requirements.

Marking the central axis of the heating battery

Installing heating radiators with your own hands involves following several strict rules:

The components for supplying heating radiators must be placed so that the slope is 0.005; it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. So, 1 m of the pipeline will have to slope towards the circulation - and by at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination must be determined by the length of the pipe sections that are installed.
There should be 6-10 cm or more from the floor surface to the radiator.
From the lower outline of the window sill to the upper outline of the battery - 5-10 cm.
From the plane of the wall to the battery - 3-5 cm.
Be sure to follow horizontal and vertical directions.

Heating system pipe slope

To increase the performance of the radiator, you can install a specialized shield made of special heat-reflecting material before installation. Or you can simply take and cover the surface of the wall with a composition that has

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators, installation and connection, photo

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators. Marking radiators with brackets. Tools and materials for installing heating radiators.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

In the old days, installing heating radiators yourself was problematic due to welding work, which was an integral part of the installation. Modern materials make it possible to do without special devices, which makes it possible to install heating radiators in the house with your own hands.

To carry out similar activities in an apartment, it is recommended to involve plumbers from a service company, since you will need to completely disconnect the system from the main line and drain the water. Not everyone knows how to do this correctly, and a poor-quality connection can result in a flood of hot water.

Determining the location of radiators

If we are talking about replacing old structures with new ones, then the issue of location disappears by itself. When planning a circuit design, it is necessary to take into account important factors according to which the batteries must provide reliable thermal protection. No matter how high-quality modern double-glazed windows are, they are still sources of cold air flow. That is why batteries are installed in almost all rooms below the window. But it is worth considering that the radiator must cover at least 70% window opening. Only then will its functioning be effective.

Experts recommend adhering to the following rules during installation:

— the distance from the window sill to the top of the heating device should be within 9-14 cm;

— a gap of 7-12 cm is required from the bottom of the battery to the floor;

— a distance of 3-5 cm should be left between the radiator and the wall;

— the heating structure should be placed in the center of the window opening.

Based on the listed requirements, we can summarize that the installation location must precede the choice of model. Only if certain parameters are available, the power and configuration of the sections are selected.

Radiator connection options

The diagonal method involves connecting the supply pipe to top part heating device, and the return from below, but located on the other side;

The bottom connection is made at the bottom of the battery on opposite sides;

The lateral or one-sided method is more often used with a vertical wiring diagram with a connection to the right or left side of the radiator.

Stages of installing heating radiators with your own hands

1. Preparatory work includes dismantling old structures if necessary. The water must first be completely drained from the disconnected system. You will need to install special fasteners for batteries on the wall or check the strength and correct installation of existing hooks. You should also examine the wall surface for integrity. Often cracks and gaps form under the window sill over time. They must be sealed with cement mortar, and foil insulation must be fixed to the dry surface. Other wall finishing options include: plaster with a special insulating compound, plasterboard sheathing with an insulating layer, etc.

2. The radiator kit includes: installing an air vent, screwing plugs into unoccupied holes in the manifolds. In case of mismatch between the diameters of pipes and manifolds, the connection is made using adapters.

3. Next, shut-off and control valves are installed. For this purpose, ball valves are installed at all inputs and outputs. They will make it possible to produce subsequent renovation work without completely shutting down the heating system. Thermostats are not required elements, but their use saves coolant consumption on warm days. Therefore, regarding additional devices, each owner makes his own decision.

4. When hanging radiators on the mounts, it is recommended not to remove protective film from new models. It will protect the surface of the batteries from contamination until finishing work is completed.

5. The supply and outlet pipes are connected in series using one of the existing methods: threaded, crimped, pressed, or welded.

6. The next step is crimping. Water into the system should be opened at low pressure; a sudden start can provoke a water hammer, as a result of which the shut-off valves will fail.

To increase heat transfer and save thermal resources, it is worth fixing a sheet of foil insulation to the wall on the back side of the radiator. Penny costs will allow you to save up to 10% on heating.

When installing a battery with a side connection, you can first hang the structures, then do the piping. In the case of a bottom connection, work begins with determining the center distance of the pipes. The installation of heating devices can be completed after the renovation is completed.

In order to rationally use energy resources and save on space heating, it is recommended to equip radiators with thermostats (a separate thermostat for each device). So in each room you can set different temperature conditions that are comfortable for living.

The required number of sections is calculated based on the area of the room and the power of one section, which is indicated in the passport.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and recommendations In the old days, it was easy to install heating radiators yourself

DIY heating radiator installation

Properly selected and installed batteries can provide a cozy atmosphere in the house even in the coldest winter. Installing a heating radiator with your own hands will not cause any problems if you follow the instructions and advice from experts who will help you select and draw up the correct connection diagram, as well as calculate the placement.

Types of radiators

Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but the significant difference lies in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:

Aluminum ones are characterized by good heat transfer and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is considered to be susceptibility to changes in water pressure in the system and its chemical composition.

Bimetallic batteries

Cast iron ones do not have these disadvantages, but their heavy weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they have a long service life (about 50 years).

The remaining two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They have a relatively low weight and good performance characteristics.

For private houses, if they have their own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be most convenient for installation.

Selecting a location and preparing for installation

To install heating radiators, craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies are usually hired, but this operation can be done with your own hands. When carrying out installation work, it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and floor, its heat transfer depends on this.

Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its dimensions.

It is equally important to maintain the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. At the same time, the gap between the top point of the battery and the bottom edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.

Removing the replacement radiator

If the radiator is installed in own home, then it should be taken into account that it must be preceded by preparatory work:

shutting off water;
draining water from dismantled parts of the heating system;
pressure testing of pipes (cleaning of liquid with compressed air);
dismantling the radiator to be replaced.

Radiator connection diagrams

Installing radiators with your own hands requires a correctly selected connection diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet openings for the coolant. In total, there are three radiator connection schemes:

cross (heat loss 2%);
lower (12-13%);
single-pipe (19-20% losses), also called “Leningradka”.

Connection diagram for battery with thermostat

The choice of connection diagram depends on the type of heating: single-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of this scheme is that the incoming and cooled coolant move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled coolant moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.

In private houses with a two-pipe heating system, the bottom radiator connection diagram is considered the most popular - it is characterized by relative ease of installation and low heat loss.

Features of connecting and installing radiators

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can reduce them to a minimum by following the instructions and guidance provided by our specialists.

Aluminum radiators

Installing aluminum heating radiators requires assembling the sections together, screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then installing the Mayevsky tap and thermostatic fittings. The aluminum radiator is installed on special brackets, pre-fixed to the wall.

Cast iron radiators

In principle, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but it is necessary to take into account the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall. This is especially true for multi-section cast iron radiators; their weight can exceed 100 kg.

In wooden or dilapidated houses with weak walls, it is more advisable to install cast iron ones not on brackets, but on special mounting legs; they can be sold separately or together with the battery. It is also advisable to use additional supports.

To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an angle of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make a slope in such a way that air accumulates at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Before installation, it is necessary to unscrew the cast iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the nipples between the connecting pipes of the sections.

Features of installation of bimetallic batteries

The bimetallic radiator, despite the fairly high price, is in great demand. The popularity of batteries of this type is explained by their high durability and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. It is recommended to carry out installation in a protective film, which will prevent mechanical damage.

Wall mounting occurs using brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be mounted either on a permanent concrete wall, and on plasterboard construction. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall using dowels and cement mortar, and in the second - through double-sided fastening fittings.

When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) for air release. It should be located at the top of the bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the package, or its installation is provided for in the design.

When installing, it is better to use an automatic valve, as it allows you to remove air accumulated in the battery without human intervention, thereby extending the service life of the device.

Regardless of the type of radiator, installing it yourself must be done in strict accordance with the included instructions. By drawing up a clear action plan, calculating the installation location and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in drawing up a plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.

Installation of heating batteries, do-it-yourself installation with photos and videos

Installation of heating radiators: assistance in drawing up a diagram, choosing an installation location, features of connecting the radiator, photos and videos, expert advice

The installation or reconstruction of a heating system involves installation or replacement heating devices. The good news is that, if you wish, you can handle this yourself without the involvement of specialists. How heating radiators should be installed, where and how to place them, what is needed to carry out the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and consumables. Kit necessary materials almost the same, but for cast iron batteries, for example, plugs are included big size, but they don’t install a Mayevsky faucet, but instead, somewhere at the highest point of the system, they install an automatic air vent. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - they come with brackets, and on the back panel there are special arms cast from metal, with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This small device to release air that may accumulate in the radiator. Placed on the free upper outlet (collector). It must be on every heating device when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is significantly smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so you will also need an adapter, but Mayevsky taps usually come complete with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connection dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky crane, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be installed on radiators, but they are slightly larger in size and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

The side-connected radiator has four outputs. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they install a Mayevsky valve. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil it at all. appearance.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves that can be adjusted. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repairs, replacement during heating season). In this case, even if something happens to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the disadvantage is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it less), and they look better externally; they are available in straight and angular versions, so the harness itself is more accurate.

If desired, you can install a thermostat on the coolant supply after the ball valve. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of a heating device. If the radiator does not heat well, you cannot install them - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different thermostats for batteries - automatic electronic ones, but more often they use the simplest one - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

if there are no more than 8 sections or the length of the radiator is no more than 1.2 m, two mounting points on top and one on the bottom are sufficient;
For every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

You also need fum tape or linen winding, and plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (preferably a level, but a regular bubble one will do), and a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cuts off the cold from the window. To prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heating device must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It must be installed:

How to install correctly

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is very desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - this makes it easier to work. Mark the middle of the opening on the wall, draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the top edge of the heating device is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation(if there is a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the flow of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

Wall mount

This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heating device is easily adjusted by screwing in and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only to fix it in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation location, see where the bracket “fits,” and mark the location on the wall. After placing the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, and the bracket is screwed. Having installed all the fasteners, hang the heating device on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can hold even light ones aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or covered with plasterboard, it is required floor installation. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators come directly with legs, but not everyone is satisfied with their appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of heating radiators made of aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, and the lower collector is secured with an arc to the installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height and some with a fixed height. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Options for piping heating radiators

Installation of heating radiators involves connecting them to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

saddle;
one-sided;
diagonal.

If you install radiators with a bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly binds the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, since otherwise you simply will not get heat. There are more options with a side connection ().

Strapping with one-sided connection

One way connection most often used in apartments. It can be double-pipe or single-pipe (the most common option). Metal pipes are still used in apartments, so we’ll consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on pipes. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, you need two ball valves, two tees and two bends - parts with external threads at both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. With a one-pipe system, a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or draining the system. You cannot put the tap on the bypass - you will block the flow of coolant through the riser, which is unlikely to make your neighbors happy and, most likely, you will be fined.

All threaded connections are sealed with fum tape or linen winding, over which packaging paste is applied. When screwing the valve into the radiator manifold, much winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating devices, except cast iron. When installing all the others, please do not be fanatical.

If you have the skills/opportunity to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower entrance, taps, of course, are needed.

With bottom wiring (pipes laid on the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly; in this case, it is much better to use a diagonal connection.

Strapping with diagonal connection

Installation of heating radiators with diagonal connections is the most best option from a heat transfer point of view. In this case it is the highest. With bottom wiring, this type of connection is easy to implement (example in the photo) - the supply on this side is at the top, the return on the other is at the bottom.

A single-pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look as good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With bottom wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and least noticeable.

With a saddle connection and lower single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed; if necessary, you can remove the radiator and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a squeegee (a piece of pipe of the required length with threads at the ends).

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen rarely - the heat losses are too large (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators

A variety of heating systems provide a comfortable air temperature inside residential premises. The basis of the vast majority of heating concepts are special heat transfer devices, commonly called batteries. You can install them yourself if you know the nuances of the work.

We have collected and systematized for you all the information about connection options and methods. Taking into account our recommendations, installing heating radiators with your own hands will be carried out without the slightest difficulty. All readers of the article we presented will be able to cope with it without any problems.

A detailed description of connection options and technologies is supplemented with visual diagrams, photo collections, and video instructions.

An initial knowledge of the modes and operating conditions of heating devices will help you understand what battery designs are needed.

Below is a summary of information about the parameters of heating systems that are important when choosing batteries:

1. Internal pressure. The value required for the correct selection of a device that can withstand the pressure in the heating circuit:

Private house (autonomous) = 1.5-2 atm.
Private house (centralized) = 2-4 atm.
5-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 2-4 atm.
9-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (centralized) = 7-10 atm.

If the technical capabilities of the battery are lower, there is a possibility of depressurization of the device with other negative consequences.

2. Permissible temperature heating. A characteristic indicating the upper temperature limit, above which the battery may fail:

Autonomous = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with plastic wiring = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with steel wiring = up to 95⁰С.

Improper operation temperature regime leads to melting of seals, deformation and loss of tightness of the device.

3. Degree of coolant contamination. A parameter that is mainly of interest to water supply owners:

Autonomous private home = high, medium, low when installing filters.
Autonomous multi-storey building = high, medium, low when installing a filter system.
Centralized = low, in rare cases medium.

Water supplied by centralized networks to municipal heating systems undergoes comprehensive purification. The content of sand and clay suspension in water extracted from private wells, wells, open sources, may exceed the permissible limit.

Traditional battery installation locations

For further selection of battery designs, it is necessary to determine the points. They are placed in places of greatest penetration of cold. This is done to minimize the impact of drafts on the indoor microclimate. They also focus on ensuring availability for the purpose of periodic maintenance.

Batteries mounted at the bottom create a thermal curtain in rooms with panoramic windows, for example, on verandas

Battery Location Areas:

Window niches. The most common location for heating appliances.
Extended spaces between windows. One of the popular additional options.
Corners and “blind” walls of corner rooms. It is used to enhance heating of rooms with increased heat loss due to intense exposure to winds.
Bathrooms, storage rooms, bathrooms, one or two sides of which are combined with a solid load-bearing wall.
Unheated entrances, hallways of private houses.
Apartment corridors of the first floors of high-rise buildings.

Modern designs of heating devices fit under balcony door or the entrance to the loggia.

An example of the location of heating radiators in one house:

Image gallery

The most popular and rational location of the heating radiator is under the window, behind a protective decorative screen

If the space under the window is occupied, you can hang the radiator from an adjacent wall in close proximity to the window

An ordinary heating radiator hardly fits into the bedroom interior. The way out is a false cabinet or cabinet

In the bathroom, the heating device performs the additional function of a heated towel rail, so it often differs in design

Traditional arrangement of batteries in the living room

How to place a radiator in a children's room

Installing the battery in a cabinet

Installing a radiator-dryer in the bathroom

Design specifics of heating devices

Structurally, batteries are divided into groups: radiators, convectors and registers.

Review of popular heating devices

Radiator is the most common type. This is a heating device consisting of vertical separate compartments. In classic collapsible products, sections are independent working elements. They are joined in the required quantity using threaded internal connections. This assembly scheme gives the batteries versatility.

Before installing or possibly completing a heating radiator, it is necessary to perform a calculation in accordance with the required thermal power. According to calculations, the number of sections of prefabricated batteries is selected. The horizontal cavities of radiators obtained by connecting sections are called collectors. Top and bottom.

Modern technologies have mastered the production of less versatile, but more reliable non-separable radiators using welding and solid casting methods. They do not have joints and seals typical for collapsible radiators. Design - for every taste.

A convector is a one-piece heating device made of a tubular or cavity heat exchanger with rows of heat-removing fins. Convectors are available in the following versions:

Wall-mounted.
Floor (duct)
Skirting.

A register is a non-separable heating device made of straight, smooth horizontal pipes, arranged and combined in a certain way.

Details about the types of radiators

Radiators differ in the material used for their manufacture.

Within one variety there may be different design solutions, sometimes unexpectedly original.

The heating appliance market can offer:

Radiators are cast iron. The ancestors of the batteries of this group. Relatively inexpensive. Can withstand each operating mode. They serve up to 50 years. The main disadvantage is that they are heavy, which, however, helps retain heat for a long time when the heating is turned off.

Steel radiators. Such batteries are constructed from steel pipes. They work in any conditions, but are less durable than their cast iron counterparts. They have low heat transfer.
Aluminum radiators. Made from lightweight, aesthetic material, these batteries dissipate heat better than anyone else. They are resistant to all operating temperatures, but are afraid of water hammer. Aluminum is very demanding on the quality of the coolant.
Bimetallic radiators. Steel insides clad in aluminum – that says it all. The main characteristics are the same as those of steel, heat transfer is almost like that of aluminum. The price is steep.
Copper radiators. These are “eternal” heat emitters for any room. Their only and most significant disadvantage is their extremely high cost.
Radiators are plastic. Innovation in the radiator family. For now they are only suitable for systems autonomous heating private houses with coolant heated to no more than 80⁰С.

The most sensitive to operating conditions. These radiators reliably serve only 15 years. Their use is only possible in autonomous heating systems.

Externally popular models of radiators from different materials similar:

Image gallery

A traditional type of radiator that served our grandparents faithfully. Old models have been replaced by stylized new ones

Steel radiators are characterized by a long service life and resistance to coolant characteristics

Low weight is a really important advantage of aluminum, especially if the heating device must be installed on a relatively weak support

Heating radiator made of cast iron

Heating device made of steel

Lightweight aluminum battery

Heating radiator made of copper

Characteristics of the convector variety

Convectors are significantly inferior in heat transfer to radiators, but in some cases they successfully complement or replace them:

1. Wall convectors. Batteries in this design are usually made of steel, so they are cheap. They are not resistant to water hammer, and their use in centralized heating systems is undesirable.

Convectors designed as panels look like closed radiators, are very attractive, and fit perfectly into any interior design.

But made in the form of pipes bristling with plates, such batteries are only suitable for installation in utility rooms.

2. Floor convectors (duct). An excellent solution for creating a thermal curtain at the door of a balcony or loggia. Made from durable, corrosion-resistant materials, they are unpretentious to operating requirements.

3. Skirting convectors. Capable of operating in all conditions and modes, these batteries are ideal for creating a microclimate where all other heaters would look cumbersome.

The baseboard type is appropriate in bathrooms and storage rooms adjacent to cold street walls and unheated entrances.

Brief description of heating registers

Once upon a time, batteries of this group were made handicraft using conventional welding. Registers can be used in any heating systems, but due to their unsightly appearance they are used mainly in auxiliary rooms: garages, storerooms, basements. Sometimes they can be seen in the entrances of old high-rise buildings.

Modern manufacturers have their eye on this group of heating devices.

Shiny chromed metal registers can decorate the design renovation of any living space

Calculation of thermal power of batteries

The stage of preliminary selection of batteries is completed, you can proceed to calculating the thermal power required from them. The calculations are based on a relative power of 100 W for heating 1 m² of standard room.

The full formula includes many correction factors and looks like this:

Q = (100 x S) x R x K x U x T x H x W x G x X x Y x Z,

S= area of the heated room, where:

R– additional parameter for rooms oriented to the east or north = 1.1;

K– correction for the presence of external walls in the room:

one = 1.0;
two = 1.2;
three = 1.3;
four = 1.4;

U– insulation coefficient of street walls:

low = 1.27 (without insulation);
average = 1.0 (plaster, surface thermal insulation);
high = 0.85 (insulation performed according to special calculations);

T– weather indicator of the period of lowest temperatures in ⁰С:

up to -10 = 0.7;
up to -15 = 0.9;
up to -20 = 1.0;
up to -25 = 1.1;
up to -35 = 1.3;
below -35 = 1.5;

H– ceiling height index in meters:

up to 2.7 = 1.0;
up to 3 = 1.05;
up to 3.5 = 1.1;
up to 4 = 1.15;

W– characteristics of the room located on the floor above:

unheated and uninsulated = 1.0 (cold attic);
unheated but insulated = 0.9 (attic with insulated roof);
heated = 0.8.

G– degree of window quality:

serial wooden frames = 1.27;
frames with single glazing = 1.0;
frames with double glazing = 0.85;

X– ratio of the area of window openings to the area of the room:

up to 0.1 = 0.8;
up to 0.2 = 0.9;
up to 0.3 = 1.0;
up to 0.4 = 1.1;
up to 0.5 = 1.2;

Y– battery surface openness value:

fully open = 0.9;
covered with window sill = 1.0;
obscured by a horizontal projection of the wall = 1.07;
covered with a window sill and front casing = 1.12;
blocked on all sides = 1.2;

Z– battery connection efficiency (1.0 ÷ 1.13; for more details, see the section below).

The calculated value must be multiplied by a conditional coefficient of 1.15. It will provide some heat reserve to enable more precise adjustment of devices to operate in low-temperature mode.

Effective ways to connect

Before continuing to study how to correctly select, install and connect heating radiators and other heating devices, it is necessary to consider two main types of pipe layout of existing heating systems. They differ in the principles of organizing the supply of coolant to the batteries and its return to the system.

In practice, the pipe that supplies heat is called the “supply”. The pipe that returns the coolant is “return”. Vertical pipe wiring (supply or return) is called “riser”.

In single-pipe heating systems, the coolant is supplied unevenly. It will arrive at devices far from the boiler after it has cooled down somewhat. Therefore, single-pipe circuits have limitations on their length

Traditional wiring options:

Single-pipe. The wiring is arranged in such a way that one pipe plays the role of supply and return. The batteries “crash” into it sequentially. The coolant bypasses the heating devices in the order in which they are connected.
Two-pipe. In a two-pipe distribution, one pipe is the supply, the other is the return. With this option, the battery heating devices are connected simultaneously to both pipes, parallel to each other. The coolant circulates through all batteries simultaneously.

The “Z” coefficient in the formula for calculating thermal power depends on the options for connecting heating devices.

The most widely used connection methods in practice:

Method number 1. Diagonally. Z = 1.0.

This connection procedure is the most effective, especially if the heating system is not working well. The coolant enters the battery from the top on one side, passes through the entire internal cavity and exits from the bottom on the other side.

Thermal energy is transferred to the entire surface of the heating device. For radiators with a length of more than 12 sections, this method is highly recommended.

Method number 2. From the side (top – entrance, bottom – exit). Z = 1.03.

Until recently, this was the most common method for connecting batteries. It is convenient for installation due to the short connection length.

For radiators of up to 12 sections, the heat transfer is almost equal to the diagonal connection method. But this is in well-functioning heating systems. If the systems are operating sluggishly, the hot coolant will not reach the final radiator compartments.

Method No. 3. Bottom on both sides. Z = 1.13.

Despite the least efficiency, this connection method quickly took root in new construction, thanks to plastic pipes. Heating system wiring is installed in the floor and does not overshadow the design of the premises. With properly configured heating systems, all parts of the batteries receive uniform heating.

The final stage of battery selection

The final stage of selection is based on the results obtained of the power required from the heating devices.
Ready-made one-piece designs of radiators, convectors or registers are selected at the time of purchase.

From the factory data sheets of the products, data on their thermal power is visible. When purchasing batteries, the specifics of the installation location (for example, the possible dimensions of the device) are taken into account.

Non-separable radiators and registers with individual parameters are manufactured by specialized organizations to order. Collapsible radiators should be considered based on the number of sections, based on their total thermal power.

Approximate individual powers of standard 500 mm sections made of different materials (Watt with a coolant of 70⁰C):

Cast iron = 160;
Steel tubular = 85;
Aluminum = 200;
Bimetallic = 180.

The power of collapsible radiators is regulated by attaching additional or disconnecting unnecessary sections.
When selecting batteries various designs for one room, it is more correct to start their selection with non-separable products.

It is also suggested to install between the battery and outer wall heat reflecting screen. To make it, you can pay attention to modern heat-reflecting materials isospan, penofol, aluf.

An air vent is a small device built into the part of the battery where air can accumulate. For collapsible radiators - this is threaded hole at the end of the upper manifold opposite the supply pipe inlet

When fixing heating devices in place, their deviation from the horizontal level is not allowed. It is allowed to raise the side with the air vent up to 1 cm for better collection and release of air.

When connecting heating devices to systems with risers, the centers of the battery inlets should not be higher than the centers of the outlets from the supply pipes. If, when connecting to risers, it is planned to equip heating units with taps or devices for adjusting the temperature, in single-pipe heating systems ah is additionally necessary in their absence.

Bypass is a jumper parallel to the battery connection. This element allows you to organize control of the operation of the heating device. It is a piece of pipe connecting the inlet and outlet of the battery. The diameter of the jumper pipe should be one size smaller than that of the riser pipe. In two-pipe heating systems, the installation of bypasses is not required.

Due to the vastly different expansion coefficients of materials, it is not recommended to connect batteries using plastic hoses to steel pipe wiring. Conversely, the main plastic wiring excludes the transition to steel connection parts.

Until the installation is completed, it is advisable not to remove the packaging shell from steel, aluminum and bimetallic batteries in order to avoid their mechanical damage.

Preparing dismountable radiators for installation

If the purchased collapsible batteries do not have the calculated parameters, they should be modified by disconnecting excess sections or adding to the desired quantity. The radiator compartments are tightened together using plumbing nipples through round sealing gaskets.

The nipple is a short, thick-walled tube with an external thread. Half - right, half - left. Inside the tube along its entire length there are two opposite longitudinal technological protrusions.

The radiator wrench can be replaced with a chisel of a suitable length, with a tip width sufficient to confidently engage the nipple protrusions. The role of the wrench will be played by an adjustable pipe wrench.
The design of the collapsible radiator has a left-hand thread.

To correctly perceive the direction of rotation, it is recommended to unscrew or tighten the nipples by inserting a key or chisel into the holes of the sections where the threads are right-handed. To avoid distortions of parts, the holes need to be alternated after a revolution or two of the tool.

Securing dismountable radiators in place

Collapsible radiators are hung on special brackets. The most reliable are arc-shaped hooks mounted in the main walls of premises. In this case, the distances must be ensured:

From the floor = 6-12 cm, sufficient for cleaning and heating the bottom of the wall,
at least 7 cm to the window sill to ensure effective convection,
from the heat-reflecting screen or from the wall = 3-5 cm.

The brackets are mounted in such a way as to fit into the intersection space of the radiators. According to the unwritten rule, when hanging batteries, the end caps with right-hand threads should be on the right, and those with left-hand threads on the left.

Markings for hooks are carried out in the following order:

Draw a vertical line of the axial center of the radiator (when installing the battery under a window, most often this is its center) with a length no less than the height of the battery.
The distance between the spaces of the first-second section of the radiator and the last-penultimate one is measured.
A horizontal line is drawn corresponding to the center of the upper radiator manifold, with a length no less than the measured distance (taking into account general advice, stated above).
The distance itself is plotted left and right on a drawn horizontal line symmetrically relative to the line of the axial center. The resulting two points are the places for the upper hooks. They will support the weight of the structure.
From the point of intersection of the horizontal lines and the axial center, a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the collectors (standardly 500 mm) is laid down vertically.
A horizontal line is drawn through the intended point, corresponding to the center of the lower radiator manifold.
The distance measured in point 2 is plotted left and right on a drawn horizontal line symmetrically relative to the axial center line. The resulting two points are the places for the lower hooks. They will ensure the immobility of the structure.
At the designated points, holes are drilled for dowels, into which threaded brackets are screwed or hooks with smooth rods are hammered.

The drilling process is described for cast iron and bimetallic heating devices with no more than 10 sections, and aluminum radiators with no more than 12 sections. For larger batteries, a hook should be added in the center area at the top and bottom.

Fastening in place non-demountable types

Brackets for installing non-separable radiators are usually included in the product kit. The sequence of marking the mounting points of the brackets for hanging these batteries is described in the attached installation diagram. The procedure is similar to that described for dismountable radiators.

The choice of brackets for securing convectors is varied. It is determined by the location of the heating device.

The convectors are held on the walls with brackets, fixed to the floor, and suspended from below to the window sills

By analogy with collapsible radiators, they are hung on arched hooks that are immovably embedded in the walls. The total number of brackets is standard four (two hold the upper pipe, two hold the lower pipe). For light registers, it is possible to use holders for pipes of the appropriate diameter with clamps.

Connecting batteries to heating systems

It is advisable to use a torque tool for connection work. The required tightening forces are specified in the passports of the purchased heating devices. To create a seal threaded connections You will need fluoroplastic sealing material, briefly called “FUM tape,” and plumbing flax.

If the connections of the batteries with the wiring of the heating system are made with plastic liners, you will additionally need:

Welding machine for polypropylene parts.
Or a crimping device for metal-plastic pipes.

When deciding to control the heating of batteries, taps or temperature control devices are purchased. Some ready-made designs are immediately equipped with built-in thermostats.

The required number of pipes for the supply line and the set of connecting parts (fittings) depend on the options for connecting to the heating system and are determined after the batteries are secured in place. Connection methods “diagonally”, “from the side” or “from below on both sides” are determined at the stage of calculating the thermal power of the installed

Required tools and materials

Not a single construction or installation process can be carried out without a certain set of tools and devices. In this case, you need to know what is needed to install a heating radiator. Most often the same set is used, with some exceptions.

For example, aluminum and bimetallic radiators are installed in the same way, but cast iron batteries are installed according to a different pattern. They require the use of larger plugs, and the Mayevsky valve is replaced with an automatic air vent, installing it at the highest point of the system. Steel panel-type radiators have metal arms and are equipped with brackets for hanging.

Air release devices

Air always accumulates in heating radiators, which must be released periodically. Mayevsky taps are installed on aluminum and bimetallic radiators for this purpose. Most often it is located on the free upper manifold. This device is slightly smaller in size than the outlet, so an additional adapter is installed, which comes complete with the tap. When choosing a Mayevsky tap, you should focus on the diameter of the collector.

In addition to this device, automatic air vents are used, which are also suitable for installation on radiators. However, automatic devices are large in size, and their housing can only be brass or nickel-plated. Therefore, such a device does not look very attractive on white enameled radiators. This greatly reduces the demand for automatic air vents.

Stubs

Radiators with side connections have four outlets. The heating system pipeline is connected to two of them, the Mayevsky tap is most often installed on the third, and the fourth outlet is closed with a plug. This element does not spoil the appearance of a modern battery, as it is painted with white enamel.

Locking elements

When installing batteries in an apartment, you will definitely need taps. They can be ball or shut-off; the second option allows you to regulate heat transfer. The taps are located at the pipeline inlet to the radiator and at its outlet. Ball Valves allow you to disconnect the battery from common system in case of emergency repair or replacement during the heating season. In this case, the supply of coolant to the battery is stopped without affecting the operation of the entire system. Ball valves have a relatively low price, which gives them a great advantage over similar devices. However, with their help it is impossible to regulate the heat transfer of the heating device, which is a negative characteristic of the device.

Shut-off control valves shut off the water supply to the radiator in emergency cases, and at the same time allow you to change the intensity of the coolant flow. In addition, such devices look more attractive and have two configurations, straight and angular. This makes it possible to make the binding more accurate. But it is worth considering that the cost of shut-off control valves is several points higher than the price of ball valves.

In some cases, when using ball valves, thermostats are installed. They can be electronic, automatic and mechanical. Using this device you can change the heat dissipation of the battery. But it should be remembered that these devices can only reduce the flow, therefore, there is no need to install such a device on poorly heating radiators.

Additional tools and materials

For wall-type radiator models, you should purchase hooks or brackets, the number of which is selected depending on the number of sections of the heating device:

If the number of sections does not exceed 8, and the length is less than 1.2 meters, then the device is attached at three points, two at the top and one at the bottom.
Each next 5-6 sections require additional fastening.

In addition, in the process of deciding how to install a heating radiator yourself, you will need linen winding and plumbing paste, with the help of which the tightness of the connections is ensured. You should also take care of the presence of a drill, drill bits and level. Dowels may come in handy. In addition, it is necessary to purchase or rent equipment for connecting pipes and fittings.

Choosing an installation location

Before installing a heating radiator in an apartment, it is important to correctly determine its location. In most cases, heating devices are placed under the window so that the warm flow prevents cold from entering the room from the window opening. The width of the heating radiator should be 70-75 percent of the width of the window, in this case the glass will fog up less.

Exist certain rules installations heating batteries in the apartment under the window:

The device must be located exactly in the middle with an error of no more than 2 cm.
The distance from the floor to the heating device can be from 8 to 12 cm.
A clearance of 10-12 cm is required between the window sill and the radiator.
Between the wall and back wall The device should leave a gap of 2-5 cm.

Compliance with these rules will allow warm air to circulate normally in the room, providing effective heating.

Rules for installing heating radiators

Installation of heating radiators under a window must be carried out in compliance with certain rules:

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to level the wall, this will make the installation process much easier.
Then mark the middle of the window opening on the wall.
Then measure 10-12 cm from the window sill and draw a horizontal line; it will serve as a guide for aligning the top edge of the radiator.
The installation of brackets is carried out in different ways, so you should learn how to install radiators correctly. If the heating system has circulation pump, then the radiator should be positioned strictly horizontally. For radiators in a system with natural coolant movement, it is necessary to make a slope of 1% along the flow of water. A higher level of slope can cause stagnation.

Wall mounting methods

The above rules are important to take into account when installing fasteners. To fix the hook in the wall, you need to drill a hole, insert a plastic dowel into it and screw it into it fastener. This device allows you to easily adjust the distance from the radiator to the wall; you just need to screw in or unscrew the hook.

When installing heating radiators in an apartment with your own hands, it is important to understand how the load from the radiator is distributed on the hooks. The weight of the device is mainly supported by the upper fasteners, the lower hook only fixes the device in the desired position. To ensure that nothing interferes with hanging the radiator, the lower fasteners are placed at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the level of the lower outlet of the heating device.

The radiator bracket is installed according to a different scheme. Before installing the heating radiator, it is applied to the wall. Then mark the places where the brackets are planned to be installed. Putting the radiator aside, attach the bracket to the wall and mark its attachment points. Holes are made in the marked places, dowels are inserted into them, and the bracket is fixed to the wall using screws. After installing all the fasteners, the radiator is installed in place.

Installation of underfloor heating devices

Despite the light weight of aluminum radiators, sometimes it is not possible to hang them on the wall. For example, on walls covered with plasterboard sheets, or made of lightweight concrete It is not recommended to hang any structures without additional support. Some models of cast iron and steel heating appliances are equipped with legs, but their appearance is not always aesthetically pleasing.

Bimetallic and aluminum radiators can be installed on the floor using special brackets. They are fixed on the floor, a radiator is installed and, using special device fix the lower battery outlet on the bracket. Floor mounts can have a fixed or adjustable height. Such fasteners are fixed on the floor using nails or dowels.

Connecting heating devices

To solve the question of how to install a heating battery and connect it to the pipeline of the general system, use the following methods:

Saddle connection.
One-way connection of heating batteries.
Diagonal connection.

If radiators with bottom connections are selected for installation, then the issue is resolved simply. The manufacturer himself determines the location of the supply and return pipes and requires unquestioning implementation of the recommendations. Otherwise, heating efficiency is not guaranteed.

When solving the problem of how to add a heating battery in an apartment, you should know that radiators with side connections can be installed using the above methods.

One way connection

This type of connection can be used in single-pipe or two-pipe systems. Since in most apartments the system is made of metal pipes, then you should consider a harness for this option. To work you will need the following elements:

Ball valves in the amount of 2 pieces.
2 tees.
2 drives, these parts have external threads on both ends.

The connection of elements is carried out according to a certain scheme. For a single-pipe system, the mandatory installation of a bypass jumper is required, which will allow you to shut off the coolant supply to the radiator in unforeseen situations. Installing a tap on the bypass is strictly prohibited, as it blocks the movement of coolant along the riser.

If you have welding equipment and the skills to work with it, the bypass jumper can be welded. Two-pipe system can be assembled without a bypass. In this case, the supply pipe is connected to the upper manifold, the return pipe to the lower outlet. Cranes are installed in any case.

The tightness of the connections is achieved through the use of linen winding and plumbing paste applied on top of it. The amount of winding must be controlled, since its excess can lead to the formation of microcracks on the body of the connected elements, which threatens subsequent destruction. Such caution should be observed when connecting elements made of all materials except cast iron products.

Diagonal connection

By diagonally connecting heating devices, you can obtain the most efficient heat transfer. With lower wiring, the connection process looks quite simple: coolant is supplied to the upper inlet on one side, which comes out on the other side at the bottom.

This design looks more aesthetically pleasing, which cannot be said about a single-pipe system with a vertical riser. However, knowing how to properly install a heating radiator, you can achieve high heating efficiency with this option.

When deciding how to install heating radiators correctly, you should know that when connecting a radiator to a single-pipe system, installing a bypass is required.

Saddle connection

This option for connecting radiators to the heating system is more suitable for lower pipe distribution or when they are hidden.

Installation on a single pipe system can be done with or without a bypass jumper. If there is no bypass, installation of taps is necessary. Their presence will allow you to remove the radiator in the event of an accident and replace it with a drain.

The use of saddle connections for radiators with vertical wiring is considered ineffective, since heat loss in this case can reach 15%.

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and ineffective radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it is worth replacing it. At first glance, this seems to be a very complex job, accessible only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the right attitude and the availability of some tools, installing heating radiators with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Rules for battery location and connection diagrams

In addition to the characteristics, it is very important that one of the factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the right location for the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery will most likely stand in place of the old cast-iron one, which has been there since the building was built. But still, here are some recommendations for proper placement of the radiator.

Secondly, there should be at least 80-120 mm from the floor to the radiator. If it is less, it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery; a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires heating and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, too short a distance to the windowsill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Table. Standard connection diagrams for heating batteries.

Name	Description
	Due to the specific location of heating system risers in residential buildings, this type of battery connection scheme is the most common. Quite easy to implement, the efficiency of the radiator is average. The main disadvantages of this connection method are visible pipes and inability to accommodate batteries with a large number of sections.
	The second most common radiator connection diagram. The main advantage is the uniform circulation of water throughout the battery, and, as a result, high efficiency work.
	A similar scheme is often used in country houses– many cottage owners prefer to hide heating communications under the floor so that they do not spoil the appearance of the room. But at the same time bottom connection radiator is 12-15% less efficient than diagonal.

Video - Replacing heating radiators in winter

Installing a heating battery with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the process of installing a bimetallic battery connected laterally to a single-pipe heating system. It is worth saying that in this case the work was carried out in a building where the temperature in the radiators was relatively low, because the supply and bypass were made of metal-plastic pipes. Before the beginning self-installation batteries, familiarize yourself with the design and characteristics of the heating system in your home. For your apartment or cottage, connecting pipes may need to be made from materials that are more resistant to high temperatures.

Let's divide the process of installing a heating battery with our own hands into several separate stages:

dismantling the old radiator;
installation of a new bypass and shut-off valves;
installing the battery and connecting it to the connection.

Preparing for work. Removing the old battery

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery begins with preparing the tools and dismantling the old radiator. IN in this example we will be talking about a standard cast iron product that still heats many apartments. How to install , You can read in our article.

Step 1. Bring home a new battery. Unpack it, check if everything you bought is there. Also inspect the radiator itself to see if it has any damage or defects.

Step 2. Cut the packaging new battery into two equal parts. Use one as a backing for the radiator - this way you won’t scratch it. flooring. Place the second part of the package behind the heating riser - when dismantling using a grinder, a sheet of cardboard will protect the wall from contamination.

Step 3. Prepare everything you need to dismantle the old and install a new radiator - fittings, taps, pipes, tools. Determine for yourself what should be located where - searching for something necessary for installation, but lost in the clutter, can significantly slow down the work of replacing the battery.

Step 4. Remove the three-way valve connecting the heating riser, bypass and supply line. First, loosen it with an adjustable wrench. If water starts to drip, immediately screw everything back in - most likely, the riser was not closed properly. And if everything is in order, continue working on dismantling the crane.

Step 5. Next, disconnect the old battery and line from the riser. First, unscrew the nut on the thread strip. Then determine how far this thread can be cut so that you can then mount a tee connecting the inlet, bypass and riser without any problems.

Advice! In some cases old paint applied to the nut and the connection of the riser with the bypass and liner may interfere with operation. You can remove it using regular knife with a retractable blade or metal brush.

Step 6. Remove the battery from its mounts.

Step 7 Using a grinder, trim according to the previously determined mark on the threads connecting the heating riser to the battery.

Step 8 Remove the old battery and take it to a place where it will not interfere with further work. Considering the high mass cast iron radiator, do this in pairs with someone if possible.

Step 9 Remove the old battery mounts from the wall. If they hold particularly tightly, use a hammer and chisel.