Anyone can skillfully and correctly hang a chandelier on their own, without being an electrician or calling in specialists. Of course, installing a chandelier under the ceiling is a very serious task, but it does not require high level special training.
There are several different ways to mount a decorative lighting fixture – a chandelier – under the ceiling. Determines tactics, first of all, total weight products. It is logical that a heavier chandelier requires solid, thoughtful mounting.
Let's consider the most effective, frequently used techniques.
Methods of mounting a chandelier
Fixing the chandelier using a hook
A metal hook is the most simplified and reliable option. There are two ways to use various types hooks:
1. When the weight of the chandelier is less than 3.5-4.0 kg, you can safely use a threaded hook. The installation technology is simple - having drilled the required hole (in diameter and depth) in the ceiling material, you need to place a plastic dowel in the channel. Then all that remains is to carefully screw in the hook to the maximum possible depth.
Attention! The hook holding the chandelier can only be attached to concrete or a solid wooden base (beams, logs, beams, etc.). It is unacceptable to mount the main element in drywall, plastic panels or decorative overlays!
2. If the lighting device is heavier than 4.0 kg, then the technology will be different. In this case, you need to use special anchor bolts(d>=10.0 mm.sq.) with spacer hook. Having drilled the desired channel, you need to place an anchor in it and tighten it to the limit. Now, the lamp will be securely located under the ceiling.
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To disguise the fastening system, a decorative cup-shaped element (included with the chandelier) is used. This part slides freely along the main rod and can be fixed in its upper part. Therefore, if desired, it is quite easy to adjust the height of the chandelier.
Mounting the chandelier using a bracket or strip
The second fastening method, which involves the use of a strip or bracket, is more complex, but can be done independently.
The chandelier kit, if the product is of high quality, must include one intended for hanging. metal strip(or bracket). This element contains two screws that need to be secured with appropriate nuts. Now, the created complex is fixed to the ceiling, in which channels are pre-drilled and PVC dowels are installed.
The chandelier is brought to the ceiling and, by inserting bolts into special holes, is fixed under the ceiling.
Advice! If the ceiling is wooden, then the bracket is secured with wood screws required length. And when the ceiling is plasterboard construction, you need to fix the chandelier with metal screws to the supporting profile strip!
Simplified mounting option
When the purchased chandelier is small and light, you can do without auxiliary fixing mechanisms and attach the lighting fixture directly to ceiling surface. At the base of these chandeliers there is a small metal plate with several holes for installation.
The installation technology is extremely simple. The locations of the screws are marked and channels are drilled at these points. They are placed in the holes of PVC dowels and the lamp is secured with at least 2 screws.
The process of placing and fixing a chandelier on the ceiling is full of various nuances, among which the most significant are:
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1. Massive, elongated chandeliers are suitable only for placement on high ceilings, otherwise, in addition to aesthetic disharmony, there will be a danger of electric shock.
2. It is better to equip low ceilings with flat or small lamps that are close to the surface. Otherwise, distinguished guests will be in uncomfortable conditions. Also a large chandelier model in small room will cause constant psychological discomfort due to low overhang.
Method of connecting a chandelier to the network
Installation issues have been addressed and now you can proceed to the most difficult stage - creating electrical system with switches. Usually the chandelier kit is supplied ready-made, but sometimes you have to make your own corrections or completely redo the local wiring.
Let's consider possible situations with switches:
Single-key switches
There are no special unclear moments here. From each lamp comes a pair of wires of the same color or different (this is not critical). One cord from all lampshades must be brought together into a single contact, and the others into a second combined twist. Now we bring one connection to the phase wire, and the second to the neutral wire, which together come from the switch.
Two-gang switch
In fact, such a relay is a combination of two single-key devices that has three outputs (a common one and two separate ones).
First, let's deal with the wires, of which we will have 4: two two-wire wires from the lampshades, a three-wire wire from the switch and a double wire from the electrical panel.
The connection principle is as follows:
— one conductor from each lamp and a neutral wire from the electrical panel are combined into one twist;
— the phase conductor from the shield is connected to the common contact of the two-key switch;
— the remaining wire from each lamp is connected to the output of one of the keys;
No matter how beautiful the ceiling in your apartment looks, the right way gives it a finished look installed chandelier. When buying a new lamp, many people think about how to hang it on a concrete ceiling. Solid concrete floors make it difficult to install hooks, and for this reason people turn to a professional for help rather than try to do the job themselves. Yes and designs lighting fixtures Today it has become more complicated. In fact, there is nothing complicated about attaching a chandelier to a concrete ceiling. Consistency is important simple actions and do not forget about safety precautions. You can verify this by reading our article.
LET'S DEAL WITH THE WIRES FIRST
In houses old building and the wiring is old, without modern color coding. IN modern requirements PUE (Electrical Installation Rules) individual cable cores have various colors, by which you can immediately determine their purpose. Standard wires in modern chandeliers are also color coded. In the factory version, they are assembled on a block, and their connection is specified in the accompanying passport.
Phase wire is usually designated black, white or brown- here the manufacturers do not have uniform standard. Neutral (zero) has blue or Blue colour. The grounding conductor is commonly identified yellow braids with green stripe.
Before starting work on installing the chandelier, you need to understand the purpose of all the wires in the ceiling wiring and inside the lamp. If everything is new, then the connection will occur without problems - we simply connect the wires with the same markings on the block.
IF THERE IS NO MARKING
If we can’t figure out the purpose of the wires by color, we’ll do it with the help of instruments. This is easy to do, the main thing is to comply with electrical safety standards. To do this, we need a phase indicator - a device that shows the presence of phase voltage at the ends of the wire. In a simplified version, it looks like a regular screwdriver, but consists of a plastic body, a conductive rod and a signal LED. At the end of the probe (as the device is popularly called) there is a metal terminal. It’s easy to determine the presence of voltage: we take the probe with our thumb and middle finger, like a fountain pen, and press the end terminal with our index finger. We touch the bare wires with a metal tip - the indicator on the phase wire will light up. It is recommended to carry out this test with one hand, without touching the wires with the other, otherwise you may accidentally get “the most vivid impressions of your life.”
WE CONTINUE TO WORK AS A SAMPLE
To carry out work, the room must be completely de-energized. Carefully remove the old lamp and check that there is no voltage on all wires one by one. We separate all the wiring strands to the sides so that they do not touch. We turn on the current supply and the chandelier switch again. We use the indicator to identify the phase wire and mark the neutral conductor in a way that we understand. It may happen that you find three wires coming out of the ceiling. This means that the chandelier was connected using a two-stage circuit. In this case, you need to turn on both keys and find one neutral and two phase wires, accurately marking them. After disconnecting one key, make sure that the phase has disappeared on one wire. Then unplug the second key and make sure there is no voltage on the second wire either. In this case, you can connect the chandelier using the existing two-stage wiring diagram.
WE MAKE A CHANDELIER CALL
Testing the chandelier wires is done in doubtful cases, and for this it is better to use a regular multimeter. With a metal chandelier body, one of the three wires can be grounding. To find it, we place one of the probes on the metal of the case, and with the second we touch the exposed part of the wires. The sound of the multimeter will indicate the ground wire. The neutral wire (neutral) can be easily determined by the test sound if one probe is pressed to the side contact of any chandelier socket, and with the other we touch the unidentified wires in turn. Thus, the remaining wires will be phase wires.
If you have a multi-arm chandelier with a two-stage connection scheme, then one or more sockets can be connected to each phase wire. To accurately determine their relationship with the switch key, connect the multimeter probe to one of the phase wires and sequentially touch the central contacts inside the sockets. Based on the sound signal, we determine the actual connection.
If the purchased lamp has several switching stages, and you have only one phase wire in the wiring, then you will have to connect all the sockets to it. To do this, we will connect all the phase wires of the chandelier together on one block.
EXPERT ADVICE
Often found in old houses aluminum wires. But wires made of copper and aluminum cannot be connected to each other by twisting. They quickly form a corrosive layer, and the contact density is disrupted. This will lead to heating and melting of the insulation - to short circuit. Copper and aluminum wires are connected only using a special WAGO terminal with insulating paste.
WE WILL PREPARE EVERYTHING NECESSARY FOR INSTALLATION
Prepare a stable stepladder, indicator and multimeter in advance. All electrical installation tools: screwdrivers, pliers, knife and hammer must have insulated handles. For drilling holes in concrete ceiling you will need a hammer drill or hammer drill. The fasteners used are expansion anchors, self-tapping screws and dowels. To connect the contacts we will use screw or spring express terminals, electrical tape or PPE type caps.
ATTACHING THE CHANDELIER TO THE HOOK
Weighty chandeliers on a long rod have a special loop for hanging on a hook, which, after installation, is covered with a decorative cap. If there is no hook on your ceiling, you will have to install it yourself. To do this, it is better to use an expansion anchor that can withstand heavy loads. IN drilled hole the anchor is driven in until it stops, and then the hook is tightened.
When installing a chandelier, it is better to remove all light bulbs and fragile parts. Having hung the case on a fixed hook, we connect the wires to the block. All wires must be carefully laid inside the decorative bowl and secured with a minimum gap near the ceiling. The bowl is usually secured to the stem with a gasket or a small screw. After this, we screw in the light bulbs, put on the shades, apply mains voltage and use the switch to check the operation of the chandelier.
INSTALLING THE CHANDELIER ON THE MOUNTING BAR
Most ceiling-mounted fixtures are mounted on a mounting strip or decorative bracket. The installation of such a chandelier consists of two stages: installing the strip on the ceiling and then attaching the chandelier itself to it. If there is an old hook in this place, it needs to be unscrewed or cut off. We first apply the plank to the ceiling to indicate the mounting coordinates. We drill the ceiling for dowels to the required depth. You need to pay attention to the density of the dowels in the holes and, if necessary, seal them with a cement-adhesive mixture. Having installed the bar using self-tapping screws, then we fasten the lamp to the bar using standard screws. We check the operation of the chandelier with a switch and admire the result of our work. After all, it’s not the gods who burn the pots! And there is nothing difficult in this work for your skillful hands.
If you need to hang a chandelier weighing several kilograms on the ceiling, then there are usually no difficulties. But when hanging a massive heavy chandelier, work needs to be done by choosing the type of fastener and The right way fastenings
The chandelier hangs at a height, is connected to electrical wiring, people pass under it, so the reliability of the fastening must be taken with full responsibility in order to prevent the lamp from falling on someone’s head.
If the lamp weighs less than a kilogram and is an electric socket with a light bulb, then you don’t have to worry about the hanging method and attach the chandelier directly to the electrical wires. I used this method of hanging during the renovation of the apartment since all the lamps were removed from the ceiling. If the chandelier consists of fittings and shades, then it is necessary to install a special mount in the ceiling in the form of a hook or anchor.
How to hang a chandelier on the ceiling using a hook
If the chandelier weighs less than ten kilograms, then to hang it best mount a simple threaded hook on a straight section can serve.
There are hooks different sizes, so it is possible to choose based on the weight of the chandelier. A hook with a rod diameter of 2 mm will hold a chandelier weighing up to 3 kg, 3 mm - 5 kg, 4 mm - 8 kg, 5 mm - 10 kg, respectively. To attach a chandelier weighing more than 10 kg, you will need an anchor.
If you need to hang a chandelier on wooden ceiling, for example, in a log house, then it is enough to drill a hole in the ceiling with a drill with a diameter equal to the internal diameter of the hook thread and screw the hook into the ceiling.
If you don’t have a hook at hand, you can hammer a nail 80 mm long into the ceiling halfway and bend its protruding part into a half ring. A chandelier weighing up to three kilograms will hang securely.
In a ceiling made of concrete slabs, to attach the hook, you must first install a dowel in the ceiling. When purchasing a hook, a dowel is usually included in the kit. The hook shown in the photo with a rod diameter of 5 mm is designed for hanging a chandelier weighing up to 10 kg.
To install a dowel into the ceiling, you must first drill a hole in it with a diameter equal to the outer diameter of the dowel to the depth of its length. The dowel is driven into the hole and all that remains is to screw the hook into it.
Since there are cavities in concrete floor slabs, when drilling a hole, the drill may fall into the void. And after the drill is removed from the hole, sand and construction dust will begin to fall.
And there is an explanation for this. Ceiling slabs are made of concrete. To reduce their weight and increase strength, reduce thermal conductivity and sound insulation, round pipe-shaped cavities are made at the factory along the entire length of the slab. When stored at construction site gets into some pipes construction garbage, that’s why it can crumble.
If the thickness of the concrete to the inner cavity does not exceed half the length of the plastic dowel, and it does not fall through when driven into the hole, then you can screw a chandelier hook into the dowel. If its weight does not exceed 3 kg, then the fastening will be quite reliable.
If the chandelier weighs more than 3 kg, a metal dowel is required, for example, the Molli system, specially designed for fastening to any walls and ceilings, including hollow structures.
To install a Molly dowel in the ceiling, you first need to drill a hole, insert the cylindrical part of the dowel into it and, turning clockwise until it stops, screw in the hook, applying significant force at the end of screwing. It is better to tighten the hook using a lever, for example, by inserting a metal rod or rod into it. When twisted, the central part of the dowel cylinder will diverge to the sides and securely cling to the walls concrete slab. This dowel will support the weight of a chandelier up to 30 kg.
How to hang a heavy chandelier on the ceiling
using an anchor
To fasten products on a solid ceiling or wall with a load of more than 30 kg, a metal Anchor is used, which means anchor in German.
To hang a chandelier on a ceiling weighing more than 10 kg, you can use not only a hook with a plastic dowel, but also a simple, inexpensive drive-in anchor that can withstand installation on a ceiling made of concrete floor weight up to 30 kg.
As can be seen in the photograph, the drive-in anchor is a segment metal tube, inside of which is cut to half the length metric thread, and the second half has a narrowing internal diameter and is divided into four sectors by slots. The outside of the tube has a diagonal notch for better adhesion to the wall material.
A metal liner is inserted from the threaded part of the anchor tube. To install a drive-in anchor, you need to drill a hole in the ceiling 5 mm deep than its length, hammer the anchor into the drilled hole and wedge it using special device. The device can be a metal rod with a diameter smaller than the anchor thread. Impacts on the rod will push the liner into the tapering part of the tube and the anchor collets will move apart, cutting into the concrete.
Main technical characteristics of drive-in anchors
Based on data from manufacturers of drive-in anchors, I compiled a table of their technical characteristics. Manufacturers recommend loading the anchor no more than 25% of the maximum load.
The load characteristics in the table are given for the ideal case of installing an anchor in high-strength concrete, in natural stone or in brick without cavities. Therefore, taking into account the impossibility of taking into account the characteristics of the wall or ceiling material, I recommend choosing an anchor with a tenfold load reserve.
| Basic specifications drive-in anchors | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anchor designation | Anchor diameter, drilling, mm | Anchor length, mm | Drilling depth, mm | Internal thread | ||
| M6 | 950 | 8 | 25 | 30 | M6 | |
| M8 | 1350 | 10 | 30 | 35 | M8 | |
| M10 | 1950 | 12 | 40 | 45 | M10 | |
| M12 | 2900 | 16 | 50 | 55 | M12 | |
| M16 | 4850 | 20 | 65 | 70 | M16 | |
| M20 | 5900 | 25 | 80 | 85 | M20 | |
Once the drive-in anchor is secured, it can be screwed into fastener any shape, for example, a hook, ring or stud on which to secure any structure using a nut. The drive-in anchor is perfect for attaching heavy wall cabinets, sports equipment, sewer pipes and any other heavy objects.
This photo shows ceiling mounting using a drive-in anchor. water pipe. A bolt is screwed into the anchor, onto which a bracket is attached using a nut, holding the pipe.
The question “How to hang a chandelier correctly?” can be divided into two parts: connecting the chandelier to the electrical network and directly mounting the chandelier on the ceiling. Connecting a chandelier requires knowledge of electrical basics, but figuring it out is not very difficult.
To install the chandelier with your own hands, you will need the following tools:
- stepladder or table;
- electric drill (perforator);
- pliers with insulated handles;
- indicator screwdriver;
- wire cutters;
- a Phillips screwdriver with a thin blade;
- insulating tape;
- mounting block for clamping wires.
Modern chandeliers have two types of mounts. The first is a loop that clings to a hook in the ceiling. In this case, the place of suspension is covered with a decorative overlay - a cup.
Second option - mounting plate , which is fixed on the ceiling and to which the chandelier is then attached. Here the decorative overlay is also a fastening element.
Hanging on a hook
A hanging hook is the simplest option for attaching a chandelier. At first need to make a hole in the ceiling next to the wires coming out of it, with a diameter of at least 8 mm. To do this, use an impact drill or hammer drill.
It is recommended to install the hook using anchor systems. Exist different types anchor fastenings.
If the chandelier is small, weighing 1-1.5 kg, you can use a regular hook with a screw thread, which is screwed into plastic stopper– dowel. For heavier chandeliers, expansion metal anchors are required, with a length of 50 mm and a cross-section of 10 mm.
When using plastic dowels, it is better to take corrugated ones, with a length of 40 mm. Smooth dowels do not hold well in the slab. After fixing the dowel, a hook is screwed into it, or an expansion anchor is installed. The hook should be insulated with two layers of electrical tape.
Next, the chandelier wires need to be connected to the wires coming from the switch using a special block with clamping bolts - a terminal block. To tighten the bolts you will need a slotted screwdriver with a narrow blade. This block is included with the chandelier. If it is not there, the wires are twisted and wrapped with insulating tape.
Then you need to move the decorative cup close to the ceiling, moving it along the tubular base of the chandelier, and fix it. The decorative cover will hide the electrical wiring terminals and wire connections. The disadvantage of this type of fastening is that sometimes the height of the decorative cup is not enough, and an unsightly gap remains between it and the ceiling. Before fixing the decorative cup, you need to check the quality of the chandelier connection.
Under no circumstances should the hook be attached to sheets of drywall, as it may not support the weight of the chandelier. When installing a ceiling made of plasterboard or suspended ceiling, you need to leave a hole in it for the hook to come out along with the wires.
If the chandelier is without a hook
The process of attaching a chandelier using a metal strip is somewhat more complicated. In this case, the metal bar takes on the entire load. If there is a hook left in the ceiling from old chandelier, it should be removed.
The plank is applied to the ceiling at in the right place and the points for drilling holes for dowels are marked with a pencil. Then holes are drilled in the ceiling and dowels are fixed in them. Next, mounting bolts are inserted into the bar at a distance equal to the distance between the holes for mounting on the decorative box of the chandelier, and secured with nuts. After this, the plank is placed on the ceiling and secured with self-tapping screws.
It is better to do the next stage of work together, since it will not work alone. Need to attach decorative box to the bar so that the mounting bolts fit into the holes on the box, and before that connect the wires of the chandelier and the switch.
One person should hold the chandelier and the other should connect the wires, since it is impossible to do this with one hand. After the chandelier is connected and the bolts of the strip coincide with the holes of the box, it is pressed to the ceiling and secured with decorative nuts. All connecting wiring is hidden under a decorative box.
When installing suspended ceilings you need to prepare the base for fastening in advance mounting plate at ceiling level. It could be simple wooden block required height. The plank is attached to the block with ordinary self-tapping screws.
How to hang a chandelier on plasterboard: if the ceiling is made of plasterboard, metal dowels that can withstand a load of up to 15 kg, or butterfly-shaped dowels are used as fastenings for the strip.
Connection diagram
First of all, you need to turn off the electricity using the circuit breaker located in the electrical panel on landing. The absence of voltage is checked with an indicator screwdriver.
There should be three wires on the ceiling: one is “zero”, the other two are “phase”. The insulation is removed from the wires; the length of the exposed tip should be approximately 3-4 cm. Separate the wires in different directions to avoid short circuits.
Then you need to turn on the electricity again to determine which of the wires are phase. To do this, touch each of the wires with an indicator screwdriver. If the wire is a “phase”, then the indicator will light up; if the indicator is not lit, then it is “zero”. It is advisable to mark “zero” with electrical tape. If you have a voltmeter, it is better to use it, because working under voltage is still dangerous.
IN modern houses the wires are color-coded: the blue wire is “zero”, the brown wire is “phase”, maybe even yellow is grounding. The chandelier should be accompanied by instructions with recommendations for its installation. If it states that the design of the lamp involves grounding, this must be taken into account.
The phase wires are led out to the switch, the “zero” goes into the installation box.
If the switch is single-key, you first need to connect the wiring in the chandelier itself. The blue ones from each light bulb are connected to other blue ones, brown ones to brown ones. The “zero” wire from the ceiling is connected to the “zero” wire from the chandelier. The phase wires from the ceiling and the chandelier are also connected to each other.
If there is no color marking, then you can arbitrarily connect one wire from each light bulb and similarly connect the remaining wires together. Lead one connection to the “neutral” wire on the ceiling, the other to the phase.
You should know that you cannot twist copper and aluminum wires together. An electron pair from these two metals causes destruction of the contact. A special block is used to connect such wires.
Connecting a chandelier to a double switch
At two-button switch you need to make sure that when you turn on one key, only part of the lamps light up, when you turn on the second, the rest, and when you turn on both keys, all the lamps come on together.
If there are only two lampshades, connecting a chandelier with 3 wires is carried out in the same way: “zero” is connected to “zero”, both phases are connected to each other.
The phases of the chandelier wires, if they do not have markings, are determined as follows: the wires are plugged in pairs into the socket, and there is no need to touch the third wire. You need to find a position for the wires such that one of them is constantly in the socket, and when you connect one or the other of the remaining two, first one or the other lamp lights up. Then the wire that is always in the socket will be “zero”, the other two will be phase wires.
If there are several light bulbs, you need to divide them into two groups: which ones will turn on from the first switch key and which ones from the second. Then take one identical wire from each light bulb (phase or “zero”) and connect them together.
Divide the remaining wires into two parts depending on the designated groups and also connect them together - you get two twists. A twist containing wires from all the light bulbs is connected to the “zero” wire. The other two twists are separately connected to the two phase wires.
To ensure reliable connection of wires from the chandelier and wires coming from the ceiling, it is better to use terminal blocks not with screws, but with clamps. They are suitable for both aluminum and copper wires.