In this article I am going to talk about how to remove air from your heating system. Since the heating circuit can have different configurations and be responsible for heating an apartment or private building, the reader and I will have to get acquainted with several solutions of varying complexity.
Why is this necessary?
Apartment house
I'll start from afar.
In order for the radiators on all floors and in all apartments to heat, they must be continuously circulated.
As a rule, in an apartment building this role is played by ordinary water.
The pressure difference between the heating main lines (supply and return) in normal mode is at least 2 kgf/cm2. However hot water from the supply enters the heating circuit not directly from the heating main, but after mixing with water from the return. A water jet elevator is responsible for preparing the mixture - a cast iron or steel tee with a nozzle placed inside.
The water jet elevator is the heart of the home heating system.
Recirculation of part of the coolant ensures the maximum speed of its movement in the circuit and the minimum temperature spread between the first and last heating devices along the water flow.
The pressure difference between the mixture entering the batteries and the return is much less than between the threads of the heating main: it is only 0.2 kgf/cm2, which corresponds to a water column pressure of two meters. Airiness in the heating system will simply prevent water from circulating: such a small difference will not be able to squeeze the air plug down due to the significant difference in density between air and water.
To remove an air lock, the hydraulic pressure in meters must exceed the height of the circuit (in an apartment building - the height of the bottling risers).
Autonomous circuit
Autonomous heating system With forced circulation coolant the picture is different. In most cases, the pressure created by the circulation pump exceeds the height of the circuit, and it can work even if there is air in the pipes.
Heating scheme two-story house. The maximum height difference is about 4 meters.
However, when air bubbles move in pipes and radiators, hydraulic noise will inevitably arise. It is unlikely that the owner will be pleased with the continuously gurgling sounds emanating from the battery.
In addition, air promotes corrosion steel elements circuit - pipes made of black steel, steel panel radiators and cores bimetallic batteries. In the absence of oxygen, contact with water does not cause rust..
Where does the air come from?
Here are the main reasons for the formation of an air lock:
- Replacement of heating devices in apartments. It is performed mainly in summer, outside heating season. After pressure testing, the riser is simply filled with water, and the air from it is safely left to bleed until the fall;
- Inspection of shut-off valves on risers. It is associated with the need to completely dry the heating circuit;
- Inspection of shut-off valves in the elevator unit. And in this case the heating circuit is completely reset;
- Water leaks through threaded connections with broken tightness, intersectional connections of radiators, valve seals, fistulas in pipes, etc. When the valves in the elevator are closed and in good working order, they lead to a gradual drop in pressure in the circuit. It is worth opening the flusher or the Mayevsky tap on one of the upper floors - and the vacuum that has arisen in the upper part of the circuit will suck in air.
Scenario 1: apartment building, bottom filling
Bottom filling scheme - most typical for houses modern construction solution. Both the return and supply pipelines are located in the basement. The risers connected to the bottlings are connected in pairs (supply with return) by a jumper on the top floor or in the attic.
Solution 1: start the elevator to reset
Removal of air from the heating system is carried out by housing and communal services workers at the stage of starting a completely or partially reset circuit.
To do this, it is reset:
- One of the house valves opens, the second remains closed;
- Before the closed valve, on the side of the heating circuit, a vent connected to the sewer opens.
The release of most of the air is indicated by a uniform flow of water in the discharge, without air bubbles.
Solution 2: air vents
At the top point of each pair of risers (in the radiator plug or on a jumper installed under the ceiling) in bottom filling systems, an air vent is always mounted. This is not necessarily a Mayevsky valve specifically designed for bleeding air: it can successfully replace it ball valve, screw valve or water tap installed with the spout facing upwards.
Venting air from the riser looks like this:
- Open the tap slightly (no more than one turn). You should hear a hiss of air escaping;
- Place any wide dish under it. A basin or bucket will save you from having to wipe up a puddle on the floor;
- Wait until the air is replaced by water;
- Close the tap. The riser should heat up within 5-10 minutes. If this does not happen, bleed the air again: it is possible that the circulation that has begun has driven new air bubbles to the upper point of the circuit section.
A few important points:
- Never unscrew the screw in the Mayevsky tap completely. With a pressure of 5-6 atmospheres and boiling water gushing out of the hole, you don’t have the slightest chance of screwing it back in. The consequence of rash actions will be flooding of your apartment and the apartments below you with hot and dirty water;
- Do not unscrew the air vent itself under pressure. Even half a turn: you don’t know what condition its thread is in. If the heating drain valve is faulty, before repairing or replacing it, you must close both paired risers and make sure that the valves on them hold water;
- If you live on the top floor, make sure you have something to open the air vent before the heating season starts. Modern cranes Mayevsky can be opened with their own hands or with a screwdriver, but in houses old building a special key may be needed;
It is easy to do by selecting a steel rod of the appropriate diameter and making a cut at its end.
Solution 3: bypassing the riser to discharge
The main problem with air vents on the lower bottling is precisely that they are located in the apartment on the top floor. What to do if its residents are chronically absent from home?
You can try to bypass the paired risers from the basement.
For this:
- Let's examine the risers. After the valves, vents or plugs can be installed on them. In the first case, there will be no expenses, in the second, you need to purchase a ball valve with male-female threads of the same size as the plugs;
- We close the valves on both risers;
- We unscrew the plug on one of them;
After unscrewing it one or two turns, wait until the pressure of the water hitting the thread drops. This will ensure that the valves on the risers are working properly.
- We screw in a ball valve instead of a plug, having previously wound the thread;
- Fully open the installed sump;
- Open the valve on the second riser. After the water pressure expels all the air, close the vent and open the second riser.
There are subtleties here too:
- If all the radiators are located on the supply riser, and the return riser is idle (without heating devices), place the vent on the return riser. In this case, all the air is guaranteed to escape. If there are batteries on both paired risers, it is not always possible to remove the resulting air plug;
- If you were unable to bypass the risers in one direction, move the dump to the second riser and drive the water to the opposite side;
- If screw valves are installed on risers, avoid water flow through them in the direction opposite to that indicated by the arrow on the body. An attempt to open the valve with pressure pressed against the valve seat may cause the valve to tear off the stem. To fix the problem, it is often necessary to reset the entire home heating system.
Scenario 2: apartment building, top filling
What is this - a house with top pouring?
Here are its signs:
- The supply bottling is located in the technical attic, the return bottling is in the basement or underground;
- Each riser is a jumper between them and is turned off in two places - below and above;
- The supply bottling is laid with a slight slope;
- At the top point of the filling supply there is an expansion tank with a vent. Often the discharge is discharged through all floors to the basement, to the elevator unit or as close as possible to it.
Where are the air vents located in the top filling heating system?
The function of the air vents is performed by the same vent on the expansion tank. Taking the discharge to the basement makes it easier to start heating at the beginning of the season, but even without it it is not difficult.
Solution 4: vent on the expansion tank
Here are instructions for getting the top filling system into working order:
- Slowly (to avoid water hammer) fill the heating system by slightly opening the house valve (between the elevator unit and the heating circuit) on the supply or return;
- When the heating system is full, open the second valve completely;
- After 5-10 minutes, open the vent on the expansion tank and wait until water comes out of it instead of air.
Scenario 3: open heating system of a single-family house
An open system operates at a pressure corresponding to the height of the water column between the lower and upper points of the circuit.
The bottling is laid with a constant slope, and an open expansion tank is mounted at its top point.
It combines several functions at once:
- Actually expansion tank, compensating for the increase in coolant volume during heating;
- A safety valve that relieves excess pressure when the coolant boils in the boiler heat exchanger;
- Air balloon. All air is forced out into top part circuit, into the expansion tank and then into the atmosphere.
Obviously, such a scheme needs additional air vents much like a fish needs an umbrella. However, they can be equipped with separate heating radiators installed above the filling: Mayevsky taps will allow you to remove air from the radiator and force water to circulate through both of its collectors.
Scenario 4: closed heating system of a single-family house
In a forced circulation circuit operating at excess pressure, an automatic air vent is usually installed. It is part of the boiler safety group and is installed at the outlet of its heat exchanger.
Some boilers are equipped with their own safety group located inside the housing.
The photo shows a boiler in the body of which a safety group and an expansion tank are mounted.
All heating devices located above the bottling points are additionally equipped with their own automatic air vents or Mayevsky taps.
An air vent is absolutely necessary only when the radiator is connected to the side or diagonally. Two-way bottom connection Allows operation of an air-filled battery. Air is forced into the upper collector, water circulates through the lower one, and the sections are heated throughout their entire height due to the thermal conductivity of the metal.
A special case
Along with the air vent, another device is used in closed autonomous systems - an air separator for heating. Its function is to remove small air bubbles that saturate the coolant and promote corrosion. steel pipes, impeller erosion circulation pump and boiler heat exchanger.
Bleeding air from air chamber the separator is performed by our old friend - an automatic air vent.
The following may be responsible for collecting air bubbles:
- The so-called PALL - rings;
- Meshes from of stainless steel or copper.
The price of the most affordable separators for a connected pipeline diameter of 20 mm starts from about 2000 rubles, and the benefits they bring are quite doubtful. In my opinion, it is quite possible to do without these devices in an autonomous heating system.
Flamcovent separator for 1 inch pipe. Retail price - 5550 rubles.
Conclusion
So, we have successfully studied the causes of air locks and methods for removing air from the heating system. As always, the reader will find additional information in the video in this article. I look forward to your comments. Good luck, comrades!
If the heating system of a private house is filled with water or antifreeze, then it will various reasons Air pockets may occur. They appear in different places and interfere with the normal circulation of the coolant, which leads to the cooling of both individual radiators and entire risers. It is clear that air should not be in the heating system and must be removed in one way or another. The purpose of this article is to identify the causes of air jams in the pipeline network and talk about how to “drive them out” into the atmosphere.
Why does air appear in the heating system?
There are quite a few reasons for this phenomenon, but we will list the most basic of them, the most common ones:
- errors in the design or installation of the heating system: these are slopes of the mains, made in the wrong direction, Mayevsky taps not installed on all radiators and other flaws;
- improper filling of pipelines with coolant;
- malfunctions of automatic air release valves;
- cracked membrane of the expansion tank: then the air in closed system heating appears passing through a crack in the membrane;
- leakage of the system: these are loose connections of pipeline parts and equipment, cracks in low-quality products;
- release of oxygen dissolved in water due to its heating.
In practice, special cases have been recorded when it is simply impossible to bleed air from the heating system; it appears there literally every other day. In the presence of aluminum radiators and a certain composition of water inside the heating devices, chemical reaction with the release of oxygen and hydrogen. These gases form an air lock, The best way To avoid this, organize automatic air release using a valve installed on the radiator instead of the Mayevsky valve.
Filling the air displacement system
An entire section is devoted to this issue, since air often ends up in the pipeline network when this operation is performed incorrectly. The procedure is quite simple if air is removed from the system with an open expansion tank located at the highest point. It's quite possible to handle this alone. Filling is carried out starting from the lowest point, where in each properly designed system the water supply is connected through a shut-off valve.
To bleed air from a heating system with an open tank, you need to connect a long hose leading outside to its overflow pipe. If the boiler is equipped with a safety group, then during filling it is better to isolate it from the system using appropriate fittings. Then you need to open the feed tap no more than 1/3 so that the pressure from the water supply is small and all elements of the system are filled with water gradually.
Important. If the operation is carried out under high water pressure, then a lot of dissolved oxygen will appear in the coolant, and subsequently it will be much more difficult to remove air from the system.
The make-up tap is closed when water flows from the overflow hose. Then, taking the tool, you need to go through all the radiators, releasing air from them using Mayevsky taps. Then slowly open the valves that shut off the boiler. As it fills, the automatic air release valve mounted in the safety group will make a hissing sound. At the end, water should be added to the system so that the level in the tank is 2/3 of its volume.
When the air bleeding is complete, you need to light or turn on the boiler and make sure that all radiators are heated evenly. Those that remain cold must undergo the de-airing procedure again. The operation of the system and the water level in the tank should be monitored for a week after startup.
To properly bleed air from the system closed type, it is advisable to use the services of an assistant. The procedure differs from the previous one in that one person fills the pipelines and monitors the pressure gauge, and the second bleeds air from the batteries as soon as the pressure reaches 2 bar. At this moment, the replenishment is turned off, and while the assistant works with Mayevsky’s taps, the first person periodically replenishes the system from the water supply when the pressure in it drops.
For reference. In a closed heating system, the membrane of the expansion tank, which is under pressure, helps remove air. When the air plug escapes into the atmosphere, its place is taken by the coolant squeezed out by the membrane.
How to get rid of air during operation?
In this situation, you first need to determine where the air in the pipes comes from. This is due to 2 signs:
- the appearance of cold sections of pipes and radiators;
- babbling noises in the highway.
When the approximate location of the plug has been found, we go up the pipe to the nearest automatic or manual valve. Then, opening the feed tap slightly, we bleed the air through this device. Removal from the battery occurs in the same way.
Unfortunately, this standard method does not always work. As a last resort, you can try to squeeze the air out of the uncomfortable place by increasing the temperature and pressure in the system to values close to the maximum. Continue on standard scheme, often the plug moves and still ends up in the relief valve. But if this does not help, you will have to bleed the air through the nearest plug connection. This must be done extremely carefully so as not to get burned and flood the whole house.
Advice. When there are no detachable joints on the pipelines, as in polypropylene networks, it is easier to empty the entire system or part of it and refill it correctly. In the process, it doesn’t hurt to find the cause of the traffic jam.
Conclusion
In fact, there are a lot of reasons why the system becomes airy. For example, due to the low quality of the coolant, any valve for venting air from the heating system of a private home may fail, and you will not notice it right away. Hence the conclusion: pipelines and batteries must be periodically washed and valves checked. Otherwise, you will have to solve the problem during the heating season, when it is frosty outside.
Air jams common reason malfunction of the heating system. They may appear in systems central heating and individual. Cold risers or heating radiators, noise in pipes, all this is caused by air in the heating system. The reasons for the appearance and how to remove air from the heating system will be discussed in this material.
Reasons for airing the system
Air in the heating system is a fairly common occurrence at the beginning of the heating season. Even in a well-designed and properly installed system, air pockets can occur. There may be several reasons for the appearance of air in the heating system.
- When repairing the heating system, it is necessary to drain the water, which is done. At this moment, the system is filled with air. After the repair is completed, the system is refilled, but air remains in it.
- When replacing heating appliances, as well as during repairs, some of the water is drained. This causes air to enter the system.
- After repairing or replacing radiators, it is necessary to properly start the heating system and remove all air. This work is long-term. They are often in a hurry and violate technology. After starting, the remaining air disrupts the operation of the heating system.
- Air is often caused by aluminum radiators heating. This type of radiator is prone to gas formation. Gases formed during radiator corrosion create an air lock.
- Corrosion of heating system pipes is an inevitable process. When corrosion occurs, various gases are released into the coolant, which can cause air locks.
- IN cold water contained a large number of air, which when heated is released and forms air pockets.
- Air in the heating system may be caused by improperly functioning automatic air release valves. Contamination of the coolant can cause blockage of the valves. As a result, their work will be disrupted and air will not be able to escape from the system.
Determining where air locks form
An important part of removing air from the system is correct definition places of air lock formation. Depending on the location of the air, they are used different ways its removal.
In any type of heating system, air pockets can form in two places: in pipes and radiators. In pipes, an air lock usually forms in the outer risers, where the difference in supply and return pressure is minimal. In radiators, air accumulates in the upper corner located opposite the supply connection.
The first thing to start with is to make sure that all the valves on the risers and heating radiators are open.
If on the riser next to the heating radiator there is a jumper (bypass) connecting the supply and return, bypassing the radiator, then first check it. If it is hot and the radiator is cold, then there is an air lock in the radiator. If it is cold, it means that the entire riser is not working.
Fig.1.
If there is no jumper, then compare the supply and return temperatures. If both pipes have the same temperature, then the problem may be in both the riser and the radiator. In this case, we first try to bleed air from the radiator. If the supply is warmer than the return, then there is an air lock in the radiator. Because of it, the entire riser does not work.
Removing an air lock from a heating radiator
Heating radiators are more susceptible to air condensation than other elements of the system. In most cases, it is enough to bleed the air from the radiator, and the heating system begins to function properly.
There are two ways to remove air from the radiator:
- through an air vent or valve;
- restart the heating system.
If the heating radiator is equipped with a valve (Mayevsky tap), then you can remove air from the radiator with your own hands. All are equipped with an air vent or valve modern radiators heating. The air vent is installed on the top radiator cap on the side opposite the supply pipe.
Fig.2.
To bleed air, you need to use a special key, sold together with the valve, to open the nipple. If there was air in the radiator, you will hear a hissing sound. Before opening the valve, place a container under it to receive water. There will not be a lot of water, so a liter jar will be enough.
When the hissing stops, it indicates that the air has escaped. Next, you should wait for water to appear from the nipple. As soon as the water pressure from the nipple becomes constant, it can be closed. There is no more air in the radiator.
If the air vent is missing, the heating system must be restarted. In the case of a city central heating system, it is difficult to restart it on your own and you should call specialists. You can restart your individual heating system yourself.
Starting/restarting the heating system
Starting a heating system is a simple, but long and responsible process. Its main task is to fill the system and at the same time remove all air from it. The system startup procedure is as follows.
Start with preparatory work. Every heating system has an air vent. Manual or automatic. It is located at the very top of the system and must be operational. In the case of a manual air vent, it is open.
Next, close the supply pipe. The system is filled through the return line. Under the influence of water, the air tends to rise to the highest point of the system, to where the air vent is located. If you don't rush, all the air will come out the first time.
If we're talking about about restarting the system, then do the same. Shut off the supply, open the air vent and open the return. Water, rising up through the pipes, squeezes air out of the system through the air vent. You can determine whether the air remains or all has escaped by the uniformity of the water pressure from the air vent. If the pressure is uniform, then the air has been removed. The air vent can be closed and the system can be turned on for circulation.
Typically the manual air vent is a faucet. Through this tap, water will flow out along with the air. For urban system central system heating loss of several hundred liters of water is not a problem. For a private home where antifreeze is used instead of water, this is unacceptable. Therefore, automatic air vents are installed in individual heating systems. They allow air to pass through, but antifreeze does not pass through.
Fig.3.
How to prevent the system from airing?
As mentioned earlier, airing the system is inevitable. The only way to prevent air from entering the system is to start it up correctly. However, the remaining factors described at the beginning of the article are enough for air pockets to appear in the system. Therefore, it is more advisable to give some tips on how to make it easier to eliminate air jams.
An air vent must be provided on each heating radiator. The same applies to water heated floors.
It is necessary to provide taps on each riser to disconnect it from the system.
Bends with taps should be installed at the very top and bottom of the riser. This will allow you to drain the riser or release air from it without disrupting the operation of the entire system.
You should choose pipes and heating radiators that are not prone to gas formation. The gas appears as a result of metal corrosion processes. If there is no corrosion, then gas formation will be minimized, and, consequently, airing.
Some residents from time to time ask questions: how to bleed air from the battery and why do it?
You should know that if the radiator is cold in some areas, this means that air has accumulated in the heating device, which interferes with its proper operation.
But before starting work, you need to find out whether there really is an air lock in the radiator that needs to be vented?
Step one: diagnosis
However, completely cold temperatures can indicate not only air accumulation, but also a number of other problems:
- A breakdown of the water heater may be indicated by too hot or too cold radiators in the room;
- Unstable temperature indicates a blockage with low-quality coolant - water;
- To find out whether there is a leak in the heating system, a thorough inspection of the floor surface under the radiator will help: if water has accumulated under it, then you must urgently call professionals or try to solve the problem yourself (turn off the heating and tighten the nut on the outlet valve);
- talk to your neighbors - perhaps the communal heating system does not have enough power. This is easy to find out: if the radiators of the residents of the upper floors are cold, and the neighbors on the first floor complain about boiling water in the pipes, then this indicates a clear lack of pressure in the heating system.
If it turns out that air has accumulated in the heating radiator, then it is worth clarifying how it got there:
- poor-quality connection of pipeline elements;
- errors were made during the installation of the heating system - for example, the Mayevsky tap is not installed on every radiator;
- Initially, the heating devices were incorrectly filled with coolant;
- the air release valve is faulty;
- elements of pipeline parts are not hermetically connected or covered with cracks.
How to get air out of heating device? A plumber from the local housing office or a “husband for an hour” will help solve the problem.
However, in practice, there are also more advanced cases when the question of how to properly bleed excess air from batteries becomes especially acute and requires an immediate solution.
For example, if there are several aluminum batteries in the room. Due to the interaction of the material and low-quality coolant, a chemical reaction occurs, during which oxygen or hydrogen is released.
It is these gases that can form an air lock. It can also be detected by manual inspection by feeling the cold, hollow area.
After finding the approximate location of the plug, you need to open the nearest tap slightly. The main thing is that you need to act carefully to release the air.
We save radiators in the apartment
How to remove air? To begin with, you should take care of correct selection tools.
So, to work you will need a radiator key, with which you can open the radiator valve located on outside heating device, a radiator key will help you adjust it.
This tool is sold in every hardware store. The main thing is to choose the right size. However, some houses have radiators whose valve can be easily opened with a regular screwdriver, which is found in every home.
So, you should have a radiator and spanners and a screwdriver to open the valve.
If air begins to accumulate in the radiator, you will have to expel it sufficiently for a long time, therefore it is necessary to protect yourself from injuries - for example, burns.
To do this, it is important to turn off the central heating system - you can do this upon application to the housing office or yourself.
Otherwise, even more air will accumulate in the operating heating system. So, how to properly bleed accumulated air from a home battery?
After turning off the heating system, wait until the radiator has completely cooled down.
You need to make sure that the intake and exhaust valves are fully open: to do this, insert a radiator wrench or screwdriver into the valve and carefully turn it counterclockwise several times.
A quiet hissing sound, which you should hear, will unmistakably indicate the air coming out.
Gradually, the batteries will be filled with coolant, which enters through the pipes of the heating system, and the air will be displaced.
Pay attention to the drops flowing from the valve - when there are more of them, and water flows from the battery under strong pressure, this means that you have vented all the excess air.
Now you need to close the valve by turning it clockwise and make sure that there are no leaks left. Remove any puddles that have formed under the battery and repeat the same procedure for all radiators.
Remember that the main thing is prevention. Therefore, even if there are problems with only one battery, everything should be checked.
And in general, you need to bleed the air several times a year, especially if the apartment has cast iron heating devices - this procedure will help increase their service life.
Do not forget to check the pressure in the boiler located in the basement after work: after the air has been released from the radiator in one apartment, it decreases general indicator heating system pressure throughout the house.
If the numbers are too low, then the heat may not reach the apartments of neighbors living on the upper floors - the system simply does not have enough power. Simply adding water to the boiler will help restore the balance.
Universal methods for a private home
Bleeding air from an apartment heating radiator and carrying out a similar operation outside the city is not an easy task. But what to do - you have to sweat!
To bleed air, you need to fill the pipes with coolant manually, thus displacing the excess.
To work, you will need running water, which will enter the house using an outdoor hose, and a little time.
Is air constantly accumulating in the pipes? To remove all excess, open the feed tap and do not overuse high pressure.
Make sure the pipes are filled evenly.
Remember that strong water pressure will lead to the formation of an increased amount of dissolved oxygen in the water, which will subsequently be much more difficult to remove.
Are there any other ways to bleed air out of the battery?
- turn off the make-up valve;
- take advantage special tool– a Mayevsky tap to open each valve that shuts off the boiler;
- when filling the boiler, the air release valve will hiss a little;
- after venting the air, it is necessary to increase the water level in the tank to the two-thirds mark;
- when the removal is completed, turn on the boiler to make sure that the heating device operates stably and the radiators heat up evenly;
- if some areas of the radiator remain cold, they must be re-subjected to the de-airing procedure;
- The operation of the system, after the air has been released, needs to be monitored for about a week.
It is impossible to bleed air from a heating battery installed in a closed system alone.
For such work, an assistant will be required: one will monitor how the pipeline is filled and pressure level readings, and the other will release air at the moment when the pressure gauge readings reach the required level.
When the 2 Bar mark is set on the screen, the replenishment must be turned off: the assistant needs to open the Mayevsky taps at this moment, and the other person needs to continue filling the system with coolant.
In addition, installing a special expansion tank membrane, which is under stable pressure, also helps to remove air from closed-type heating systems.
When the air plug is released, its place is gradually taken by the coolant, which is pushed through the membrane.
However, this standard method does not always work. The difficulty of bleeding is that the air can get into the most inconvenient place - for example, the radiator elbow.
In such a situation, it will have to be literally “squeezed out”, increasing the temperature in the heating system and regulating the pressure almost to maximum values.
If this procedure does not bring results, then the bleed air will have to be expelled through the detachable compartment. Follow safety precautions, otherwise you can easily get burned or flood the whole house.
If the heating system is made of polypropylene materials, then it’s easier to completely drain the coolant and then fill the radiators correctly.
Let's sum it up
There are many reasons why airing occurs in the heating system. Thus, radiators can fail due to low-quality coolant, which contains impurities and suspended matter - the valves will simply become clogged, and this is not immediately noticeable.
Therefore, it is especially important to periodically flush heating devices and check the serviceability of the valves. Otherwise, the batteries may cool down at the most inopportune moment - for example, in winter.
However, airiness in itself is not as harmless as it might seem. It turns out that a cold room and cold radiators are not the worst thing.
Much worse is that due to the presence of air inside the radiator, it is easily subject to corrosion, which leads to a shortened service life.
If you live in a private house and the heating system is autonomous, then the boiler is forced to run “idle”, driving air through the heating system rather than coolant, as a result of which wear on the bearings increases and the pump fails.
It is easier, of course, to prevent the occurrence of air locks - for this, the batteries should be given close attention during repairs.
You need to use only high-quality radiators from trusted manufacturers or install a Mayevsky tap on each radiator so that you can easily bleed air from a specific heating device at any time.
You can use an automatic air vent that can control the operation of the entire heating system in autonomous mode.
In addition, install additional valves that release excess air in the tortuous areas of the heating device - in places of bends and turns, because this is where traffic jams most often form.
If the article did not help answer the question of how to quickly bleed air from the battery correctly, watch the video on the topic.
It is difficult to protect yourself from problems when starting a heating system, even in cases where the work was performed by specialists in this matter. One of the most common and no less unpleasant of them is an air lock. Why is it so unpleasant for us and our batteries, how and with what help can we fight it? Let's talk about this in our new article - air lock or how to bleed air from a heating radiator.
If the battery does not heat up properly and gurgles and hisses are heard from it, most likely oxygen has entered the system. The danger of an air lock is that it leads to corrosion and over time can damage the entire heating system. Air gets into the system for various reasons; it may be an error during installation or filling the entire system with water, or it may bad water, which contains oxygen in the form of impurities or bubbles.
What can an airy heating system cause?
The result of such an air lock is a reduction in the service life of the radiator, and if used autonomous system heating - the shaft bearings break, followed by the pump, since the boiler has to distill air instead of water.
How to properly bleed air from a battery
To release all the gas accumulated in the pipes and batteries, you will need a radiator key, with the help of which adjustments are made air valve, such keys are sold in all hardware stores and come different sizes For different batteries. In newer battery designs, the valve can be opened with a flathead screwdriver. If there is more than one radiator in your house, make sure that you can open the valve on each one; you must bleed air from all radiators installed in the house.
A similar operation must be performed with all batteries in the house, even if there are no problems with them. For prevention, all gases are usually released once a year and after repairs or any other changes to the heating.
Procedure: 
- Find a basin or any other container to drain the water, then locate the inlet and outlet valves on your radiator and make sure they are open.
- Using the key, turn the valve counterclockwise. At the same time, a characteristic hissing sound should be heard, which means that the air is safely released and replaced with liquid.
- This is where you will need a container; a few drops of water will come out along with the air and As soon as a steady stream flows from the valve, tighten it back.
Types of air vents and their installation locations
- Mayevsky's manual tap.
Also called a needle radiator valve, it is distinguished by its simplicity and durability, and is made of brass. The design involves a body and a conical screw. All parts fit tightly against each other and reliably hold water in the battery. When opened, air is released from a small hole on the side. Mayevsky's crane happens different designs and depending on this it can open differently.
Installation of such a crane does not require special professionalism. The main thing is to choose a faucet correct size. Before installation, you need to drain the water from your battery, and then unscrew the plug in the radiator cap. For greater reliability, you can wrap FUM tape around the thread.
The product can be purchased at a price of 30 rubles.
- Automatic air vent.
This device automatically removes all gases accumulated in the pipeline, and is therefore undoubtedly more convenient than the Mayevsky tap. Made from bronze and stainless steel. It can be installed with a shut-off valve, which is needed to easily replace the air vent.
An automatic air vent is installed in the highest places of the heating system, since gas is lighter than liquid and rises to the top. Experts recommend installing a diverter behind the boiler, on the collectors and at the highest points where the pipes pass.
Prices for such equipment start at 300 rubles.
- Air separator.
The operating principle of this device is based on separating gas from liquid and removes all microbubbles and oxygen dissolved in water from the system. The design uses special PALL rings, and all microscopic air bubbles are caught by their surface. 
In addition to catching bubbles, separators also catch dirt circulating in the system.
A separator is installed immediately after the boiler, since most of the oxygen is released from the water when heated and is best removed immediately.
Such equipment can be called advanced and the prices for it are correspondingly higher - from 10 thousand rubles.
- Multi-stage system.
Considered the most effective method removing air accumulated in pipes and radiators. It consists in combining several types of devices in one circuit. Typically looks like this:
- Mayevsky's battery-powered crane.
- Automatic air vent next to the boiler.
- Air vents on the manifolds.
- Separator after the boiler.
Most the best option usually costs more than others and our case is no exception. The exact price is determined from a specific scheme.