How to join floorboards. Independent laying of floorboards: technology for carrying out work from A to Z. Technologies for processing floorboards

Any construction or major renovation of the premises involves the installation of a floor. Despite the wide range of products that can be used for this, in most cases (for residential buildings) owners prefer wood as a “finish” coating. Much has been written about its positive qualities, and first of all, environmental friendliness.

The main type of products intended for finishing floors was and remains boards. It is much easier to work with it, so you can carry out all the activities (with some skill and compliance with installation rules) yourself. This allows you to save significantly, since you don’t have to pay hired specialists.

Laying the boards with your own hands, in our opinion, has another significant “advantage” that many do not take into account. Let's look at this problem from the point of view of further exploitation. The wood gradually “gets rid” of moisture (and it is present in any wooden piece, even the most dried one), or, as they say in such cases, “shrinkage” of the material occurs. Changing the geometry of the boards leads to the formation of cracks, creaking appears, and the floorboards begin to “rise.” We could go on and on about all the possible surprises.

But the caveat is that the “shrinkage” process can sometimes take quite a lot of time. This depends on local conditions (temperature and humidity in the room, ventilation, specific surface treatment of floors and a number of other points), as well as on the characteristics of operation (for example, the degree of load). By the way, a possible defect in some workpiece, which was invisible during installation, can also appear after some time. Unfortunately, no one is immune from this.

Consequently, there is no guarantee that in six months or a year the boards will not “lead.” Who should you file your claims with and how can you legally justify them? Most likely, you will have to invite a specialist again (naturally, a different one, “more competent”), which means you will have to pay again.

But if the owner did everything himself, from beginning to end, with knowledge of the matter, then he will determine the cause of any “malfunction” that arose and eliminate it quite quickly, without outside help, at any time suitable for this. We have dwelled on this issue in such detail so that all the “pitfalls” that accompany the work of laying floor boards become “clear”. Therefore, strict implementation of all recommendations is mandatory. You should not neglect carrying out this or that, at first glance, even insignificant operation.

There are several basic methods for installing boards, one of which we will consider. But first, let’s note what surface they can be laid on (what kind of “base” needs to be prepared):

"subfloor";
concrete, cement, self-leveling screed ();
plywood, chipboard sheets or other flat base.

Regardless of which method is chosen, the suitability of the “base” must be determined. This is especially important if the boards are supposed to be laid on screed or concrete (reinforced concrete slabs, “pouring”). The point, again, is that wood in particular absorbs moisture. It is necessary to determine whether the “base” has dried sufficiently. After all, the evaporation of liquids occurs in the direction from bottom to top. Therefore, it is impossible to lay boards on a damp base.

Check with film

Part of the surface is covered with polyethylene, and its edges around the perimeter are glued to the base (for example, with tape). The goal is to completely seal this area. If the screed (or concrete) is not dry enough, then after about 12 - 24 hours (depending on the room temperature) droplets of moisture will appear on the inside of the film.

A piece of rubber

The principle is the same. This “mat” is placed on the floor, and some weight is placed on top. If after the specified time a stain forms in this place, then the base is still damp.

What to consider when laying boards

Regardless of how the board is installed, some additional measures need to be taken. Their feasibility is determined by local conditions. We will simply list them.

Preparing the base

After laying the boards, it will be inaccessible. Therefore, you should worry about its integrity in advance. This is especially important for apartments located in multi-story buildings. You need to understand that any gap, unsealed joint is a “path” through which heat leaves the room and sounds penetrate. Therefore, the base must not only be cleared of debris, but also washed (if it is concrete). Then all its defects will be visible. By the way, for some reason many people neglect this, not thinking at all about the importance of this stage.

Hydro- and vapor barrier

There is no point in talking about the need for this. Firstly, wood must breathe. Secondly, the risk of even an accidental underlying floor is minimized. By the way, such a small “trouble” often entails large financial losses in the form of monetary compensation for the material damage caused.

Insulation

For owners of private housing, this allows them to significantly save on heating costs, and for residents of the first floors - to avoid drafts and cold floors.

When choosing one or another method of arranging a covering from boards, you need to take into account all these factors. Let's look at the most common and easily implemented method.

Laying boards using logs

This method has, perhaps, the only drawback, although it is relative - a reduction in the height of the room (thickness of the boards and joists). But there are more than enough advantages, especially since this technique is much simpler. The thickness of the logs is selected taking into account the preliminary finishing and insulation material. It is advisable to use solid bars rather than “composite” ones.

Installation features

all wood must be dried in advance and (fire retardants and antiseptics);
the interval between the lags is determined by the thickness of the board. The thinner it is, the more often supports are placed. In addition, the specifics of the room and the “load” of the floors are also taken into account. For example, the presence (or absence) of heavy furniture and the like;
it is necessary to take into account that the boards are laid perpendicular to the joists. How to lay them depends on several factors: the location of the door, windows, room lighting;
The lags are fastened depending on the base - with screws (with dowels), nails, mortar or mastic. The main thing is that all their upper surfaces are located in one, strictly horizontal plane. This is easy to check using a level (construction level) and a long strip, which is placed on top in different directions. This way you can determine any distortion. To eliminate it, you can, for example, knock out wedges or use another leveling method;
The boards are fixed with self-tapping screws. This is much better than using nails, since you may have to replace one of them later. Such fasteners simply unscrew;
if laying is done on an old board, then it is made perpendicular. While maintaining the direction of the floorboards, plywood should be installed on the “subfloor”;
a tight fit of the boards to each other is done using a stop made of a piece of board or block.

The final stage is sanding the coating and installing skirting boards around the perimeter of the room. After this, further cladding is carried out (linoleum flooring, application of paints and varnishes).

Other techniques involve careful leveling of the base. This is quite a complex and painstaking job with many nuances. In addition, all activities are carried out differently, depending on the material of the “base” and the financial capabilities of the home owners.

You should not start laying boards immediately after purchasing them. Experts recommend bringing them indoors and leaving them there for a couple of days. The material must “get used” to the microclimate that has established itself in a given room. If the installation of floors is carried out in a “new building”, then such work begins after the installation of windows and doors.
When laying on joists, it is advisable to use a beam equipped with a device that allows you to adjust the height. This will greatly facilitate the process of leveling the surface.

Despite the variety of flooring materials, plank flooring will probably never lose its fans. Both the selection and installation of floorboards require certain knowledge, which must be obtained by deciding to carry out the installation work yourself. Therefore, in the sections of this article, different options for arranging the floor will be considered, as well as what you need to pay attention to when choosing a material.

General information, advantages and disadvantages

Solid wood is a durable, strong, environmentally friendly material. The tree has unique properties of releasing phytoncides into the environment that can suppress the development of various bacteria. Unlike floor coverings that imitate plank, wood does not become electrified and does not attract dust. The wooden covering is resistant to mechanical and chemical influences, and is also easy to care for. This floor has low thermal conductivity and absorbs noise well.

Tongue and groove floorboards are most often made from species such as larch, oak and pine, less often from more expensive and exotic wood. Boards made from beech, oak and ash are considered elite - these materials have rich shades, a beautiful textured pattern, as well as excellent performance characteristics.

Having chosen one of the expensive types of wood, you should remember that due to their high density, such boards are difficult to process. However, if you install such material correctly, the floor covering will last a long time without repair.

Floorboards are most often manufactured in the following dimensional parameters:

product width - from 70 to 135 mm;
board thickness - 40, 35, 32, 30, 28 and 25 mm;
length - 2500, 3000, 4500 and 6000 mm.

Summing up the characteristics of the floorboard, it is necessary to highlight the operational features of this material, both its positive and negative sides.

Environmental friendliness of the material.
The ability to improve the indoor microclimate.
Ability to withstand high loads.
Duration of operation largely depends on the type of wood.
The ability to insulate the floor and provide a barrier against the spread of noise.
The natural beauty of textured patterns and wood shades makes any interior more comfortable and elegant.

The appearance of gaps between boards due to sudden and frequent changes in temperature or humidity level in the room.
Biological decomposition of the material, especially if insufficiently processed. Not typical for all breeds.
Flammability of the material.
The need to periodically update the decorative coating - a layer of paint or varnish.

If a high-quality material is chosen, and its installation is carried out according to the requirements of the technology, then it will last a very long time.

Choosing a board for flooring

It is very important to choose the right board, since both the speed of installation and the durability of the floor depend on its quality. Therefore, you should immediately determine the requirements that must be placed on the purchased material.

The thickness of the board is selected depending on the distance at which the logs will be installed if this floor design is to be chosen. For example, if the logs are installed in mm increments, then you should choose a board at least 28÷30 mm thick. For flooring directly on a rigid base, any reasonable board thickness can be selected.

In addition, when choosing the width of the board, you need to take into account the planned decoration of the room. The fact is that a board that is too narrow or, conversely, wide can disrupt the interior design plan. In addition, other equally important parameters are taken into account.

Application area of the board

An important role when choosing a material is played by which room it will be laid in:

Any type of wood can be used for installation in living rooms. Here you should focus on your financial capabilities.
For flooring in bathhouses, it is recommended to use linden, aspen or other deciduous wood, since coniferous wood can release resin when heated.

For boardwalks that will not be protected by walls from moisture, ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes, for example, open gazebos, terraces, etc., the best option would be durable and dense larch.

Floor type

By type, floors can be divided into rough and finishing (finish flooring) coatings:

For the subfloor, low-quality boards that have defects are often used, since it still serves only for installing insulation and will be covered by the main flooring.
For the front, finishing board covering, boards with the minimum possible number of flaws are selected. It is recommended to carry out rejection immediately upon purchasing the material.

Board humidity

One of the most important indicators when choosing wood, in particular floorboards, is its moisture content. This is where you should start when choosing a material when purchasing it.

A responsible seller must have a special device - a moisture meter. Its display shows how high the residual moisture in the wood is. Only properly dried boards will last a long time, without deformation or cracking.

The maximum humidity that is allowed specifically for a floorboard is considered to be 12%, and the optimal level is 8÷10%. Exceeding the maximum norm will significantly complicate the installation work and then the operation of the floor. Usually it is not possible to avoid deformations, creaking, and the appearance of cracks.

Board grade

Floorboards are divided into several grades according to their quality and appearance. By the way, this classification is not affected by processing technology or wood type.

So, the main types of floorboards are “A”, “B” and “C”. However, besides them, there is also the “Extra” variety. You should also be aware that some manufacturers may label their products as “Economy”, “Classic” and “Elite”.

“C” is the lowest grade of material, which may contain knots (not fallen out) and cracks in varying quantities. Cracks can reach 3 mm in width and 300 mm in length. These boards may have resin pockets, insect damage, or blue stains. However, the hardness of the wood should not be reduced. Suitable for subfloors only.
“B” - this material is also not of high quality. The boards are allowed to have cracks, two or three knots per linear meter of the product, as well as other flaws, but they should amount to no more than 10% of the total surface. However, grade B boards should not be damaged by insects or rot. Suitable for flooring in utility rooms or attics.

“A” is a grade that is suitable for finishing a finished floor. For this type of material, the presence of two or three small knots per linear meter, minor cracks and other small defects that do not affect the strength and integrity of the board are acceptable. The products are suitable for laying finished floors in residential and non-residential premises.

“Extra” is the highest quality and most expensive material; it must have a perfectly flat and smooth surface. Such boards are not allowed to have knots, cracks, rot or damage by insects. Small cracks are possible at the ends of the board, but their size should not exceed 30 mm in length and 0.5 mm in width.

For flooring, in order to save money without much loss in the quality of the coating, “transitional” grade boards are most often used AB, in boards of which one face can meet the requirements for IN, the second is for A. Such material is usually found at timber trading centers at A And IN is not sorted, but is sold at a significant discount (relative to the variety A). The offers can be very profitable!

tongue and groove board 30 mm grade AB

Methods for installing floorboards

There are several ways to lay plank flooring.

To begin with, let's list the floorboard laying technology:

on glue;
with mounting on logs;
without fastening - “floating” coating.

Now - about the bases on which the board covering can be laid:

on the screed;
on old plank flooring;
on logs installed on a screed or an old wooden floor;
on plywood.

Illustration	Brief description of the technology
	Installation of floorboards on old plank flooring. Before laying new boards, old floors must be repaired, otherwise they will continue to creak and sag, and along with them, the new covering. Repairs involve strengthening the old deck, eliminating squeaks, and replacing damaged boards or even joists. If new boards are attached directly to old ones, they will have to be scraped off so that the surface is perfectly flat. The new plank floor is laid perpendicular to the direction of the old planks. The repaired old covering can also be used as a subfloor, on top of which logs are fixed perpendicular to the boards, and a new board is mounted on them. This option is possible if the room has a high ceiling, since the floors will rise by 60÷80 mm.
	Installation of floorboards on plywood, which can be used to level an old wooden floor or screed. The new coating can be fixed to plywood using self-tapping screws or even the so-called “floating” method, when the boards are fastened only to each other, without being fixed to the base. The plywood must be well secured to the floor using glue or self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the wood.
	Laying with glue. This process is similar to installing parquet or parquet boards. Naturally, the base for this masonry method, as well as the board itself, must be perfectly flat. For fixation to the base, special parquet glue is used. The base can be a plywood flooring or a concrete floor leveled with a self-leveling self-leveling compound.
	If the base is perfectly leveled with a screed, then a “floating” plank covering can be mounted on it, when the tongue-and-groove boards are fastened only to each other, similar to a laminate. Under such a coating, a waterproofing material must be applied or laid on the base. The boards can be fastened together using self-tapping screws or nails driven in at their joints at an angle of 45%. The caps of the fasteners are deepened into the wood and then covered with putty.
	Fastening the board onto logs, between which you can place any insulating material. The logs can simultaneously serve as a kind of beacons when leveling, for example, a filled-in “dry screed” filler or other bulk insulation. The boards are attached to the joists with self-tapping screws or nails driven in at an angle of 45%. Fasteners are screwed or driven into the outer boards at right angles. This option can be called the most popular. It is this technology that we will consider in detail in the table below.

Installation of plank floors along joists

This is the most common method of installing a plank covering, as it is quite simple to implement, and at the same time makes it possible to insulate the base. Moreover, almost any thermal insulation materials can be used as insulation.

For example, if floors are installed on the ground (on the ground floor), and there are no particularly strict restrictions on the thickness of thermal insulation, then it is best to insulate them with fine or medium-fraction expanded clay. This material is not only durable, but it is also avoided by various rodents who happily live in both mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. But this is in the context of today’s article – in particular.

So, work on arranging a wooden floor using joists installed on a concrete base is carried out in this order.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	Before carrying out installation work, the cleaned surface of the base is checked for evenness. At the same time, differences and the need to level the floor plane using logs are determined.
	Next comes the stage of waterproofing the base. In this case, dense polyethylene is used as a moisture-proof coating. The canvases are laid with an overlap of no less than 150 mm. The overlap lines are taped with moisture-resistant tape. The film is lifted onto the walls by approximately 150 mm, so that it rises above the joists and boarding by 50 mm.
	The next step is to mark the placement of joists on the walls. The optimal distance between the logs is 500 mm; if a thick board of 25÷30 mm is chosen for the flooring, then this distance can be increased to a maximum of 700 mm. At the same time, it should be taken into account that they should be placed approximately 100 mm away from the walls along which the logs will be mounted.
	Next, the first log is laid on the base - this is a beam with a section of 65x40 mm. It should be on the highest part of the floor. On the wall, the final height of the floor is measured and marked by level, taking into account its leveling and the thickness of the board. In this case, the height of the floor from the concrete floor should be 120 mm.
	The master made three marks on the wall - the gap between the beam and the wall (an arrow-shaped icon resting on a vertical line, somewhat reminiscent of the letter “K”), the height to which the log beam will be raised and the final height of the boardwalk from the concrete covering.
	To level and raise the logs to the desired height, adjusting wedges are placed under the beam. In this case, plastic wedges were chosen, which, when brought together in pairs, make it possible to very accurately set the height of the lining. The wedges are laid along the entire length of the beam, in increments of about 200÷300 mm.. When raising the timber to the required height, you need to ensure that the waterproofing film remains raised on the wall to the height of the future coating
	After placing the timber on the wedges, be sure to check the horizontal installation using a building level. After the beam is installed, it is necessary to determine the exact height of its installation and transfer this parameter to the opposite side of the wall. This process can be carried out using a water level or a laser level.
	After markings have been made on the opposite wall, a second joist is placed along this wall and raised using wedge pads to the desired height.
	The next step is to use self-tapping screws to fix the relative position of the lags and the placed wedges.
	A level is installed on the logs laid along opposite walls. If there is not enough length, then the level is set on the rule, or even cords are pulled in 2-3 places, which will set the plane.
	The remaining logs are installed between the already installed ones. Also, with the help of wedge linings, the upper edge of the beam is raised to the laid level or tensioned cord.
	When the logs are perfectly level, they are also attached to the floor surface through wedges. The sheathing for the flooring is ready.
	The next step is to lay the selected insulation. In this example, mineral wool is used. Not shown here, but still, between the insulation and the boardwalk, a layer of waterproofing would be useful. Firstly, water may be accidentally spilled on the floor. And secondly, you should protect yourself from the penetration of the finest dust from fragments of mineral wool fibers into the premises.
	The first board of the plank covering is laid with a distance of 10 mm from the wall. It is very important to level the starting board very well, since the quality of the entire flooring will depend on this
	It is necessary to retreat 10 mm from both walls to the edge of the board. This gap is to compensate for the “movements” of the coating when temperature or humidity changes, so that deformation does not occur.
	When the board is leveled, it should be fixed, first to the middle joist. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the wall edge of the board.
	Then, the position of the board is controlled again After which it is fixed to the adjacent middle lag, and then to the others.
	Along the outer edge, the fixed board is secured to the joists with self-tapping screws, which are screwed at an angle of 45 degrees through the groove. The heads of the screws should be deepened into the wood so that they do not interfere with the installation of the locking tenon of the next board.
	Next, a second board is installed in the groove of the first board, which should be pressed tightly against the first board, that is, there should be no gap left between them. In order to achieve this, the second board should be tapped to the first, and in order not to damage the groove of the second board with a hammer, the tamping should be done through a wooden beam or other piece of board.
	The second board is tapped along its entire length. When the gap is closed, the second board is also fixed from the outside with self-tapping screws to each of the joists.
	In this way, the entire plank covering is installed up to the opposite wall. As the insulation board is covered, the next row of insulation blocks is laid between the joists.
	If at the end of the covering the whole board does not fit, then it should be made narrower. The cut from it is made from the side that will be turned towards the wall. To accurately determine the desired width, you will need two boards. One of them is laid on the last board of the covering, aligned with it, and another board is installed on top of it, which should rest against the wall. Then a line is drawn along it, on the bottom board, and the cut will be made along this marking.
	The edge cut should be made at a slight angle, as shown in the illustration. Therefore, you should immediately outline the direction of the cut. This creates a ventilation gap necessary for long-term operation of the coating.
	Cutting the board can be done using a jigsaw, or, if possible, a circular saw. Both of these tools allow cutting at the desired angle.
	The finished board should fit freely into the gap between the wall and the penultimate board.
	To pull the last board to the rest of the covering, a special tool is used - a hammer. It is installed in the gap between the last board and the wall with one of its sides, made in the form of a corner, and the other side of the tool is struck with a hammer. The tamping is carried out carefully, starting from the beginning of the board, then in increments of approximately 500 mm.
	After the board is lined, it should be fixed along the edge to the joists using vertical screws.
	Next, you can try on the baseboard - it should completely cover the gap between the wall and the covering. The plinth is attached only after the floors are brought to perfect condition.
	If the plank covering still has gaps at the joints, or cracks directly in the boards themselves, then the floors should be puttied. You can make your own putty from very fine sawdust and wood varnish. The consistency of the mass should resemble medium thick porridge. The putty is applied using a wide rubber spatula, with which it is literally rubbed into the gaps.
	If a high-quality board was used for the flooring, then it will be enough to sand it well using a hand sander. However, in some cases it is necessary to involve a scraping machine, which will not only scrape the board covering, but also grind it.
	After sanding, the floors need to be vacuumed thoroughly so that even fine dust does not remain on them. Next comes the application of varnish or paint. The decorative coating is applied in three or even four layers, each of which must dry well before applying the next. The better the varnish or paint is applied, the higher the abrasion resistance of the coating will be.
	The final stage is framing the covering with plinths. It can only be attached to the wall, that is, it should not limit the thermal expansion of the coating. First, a hole is drilled in the baseboard so that the head of the screw is recessed into the wood by 2÷2.5 mm. The remaining space above the cap is filled with putty, which is sanded after drying. Well, then the baseboard is coated with varnish (paint) using a soft brush.

* * * * * * *

We hope that our article will be useful both in terms of choosing a material for a plank floor, and as instructions for self-installation of the covering.

And one more thing - a video is offered in which the masters not only share the secrets of the technology, but also warn about possible common mistakes.

Video: Installation of a plank floor - nuances and possible mistakes

In modern renovations, wooden floors are made mainly from tongue and groove boards. This allows you to avoid many disadvantages such as creaking, cracks, drops, etc., inherent in floors made from ordinary boards. If you also decide to make a floor from a tongue-and-groove board, then in our article you can learn how to choose a tongue-and-groove board, how to install it and how to repair floors made of this material.

To correctly select a tongue and groove board, you need to know about the features, classification, manufacturing method and categories of boards.

Manufacturing

The tongue and groove board is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. The boards are cut from the core of the logs, after which they are dried to 8-10% moisture content. After drying, the boards are cut to size, processed on a thickness planer and using a cutter, a tongue-and-groove joint is made along their edges. The boards have dimensions: width from 80 to 200 mm, thickness from 15 to 22 mm, length from 600 to 6000 mm. The tongue-and-groove connection can be on either two or four sides; this criterion mainly depends on the length of the board. There are also boards with other parameters on sale. At the end of the manufacturing process, the boards are treated with antiseptics.

Advantages

A tongue and groove board has a number of advantages compared to a regular edged board:

The main advantage of a tongue and groove board is the tongue-and-groove connection, thanks to which the floor elements are securely connected to each other and attached to the joists. The result is a perfectly flat surface, without cracks, differences or defects, and does not require additional sanding.
Tongue and groove boards are produced in the same size, so there is no need to adjust the elements, which greatly facilitates installation.
The boards are made from already dried wood, so there is no risk of cracking and deformation of the boards during installation.
During the manufacturing process, special recesses are made on the inside of the tongue-and-groove board for air circulation. This allows you to avoid the formation of mold and rotting of the boards in case of high humidity under the floor.
The tongue and groove board is produced with an already planed surface, this in turn allows you to save installation time.
Thanks to all the advantages listed above, the installation of tongue-and-groove boards is so easy that you can do it yourself.

Features of choice

When choosing floorboards, consider the load factor on the coating. For floors with heavy loads, buy tongue-and-groove boards made of hardwood: oak, alder, mahogany, birch. If a small load is expected on the floor, then it is quite possible to get by with cheaper coniferous species: pine, cedar, spruce.

When making a purchase, be sure to pay attention to the appearance of the boards. If there are white or dark spots on the surface, this may be a symptom of wood infection by fungus or mold. Also carefully inspect the boards for insects living in the wood.

Not all board sellers comply with the storage conditions for lumber. For this reason, the boards you purchase may end up being wet. To save yourself from a bad purchase, check the moisture content of the wood. This can be done using a moisture meter or traditional methods:

- Knock on wood; wet boards will make a dull sound; therefore, the drier the board, the louder the knock will be.
- Inspect the board for any escaping resin. If there are droplets of resin on the surface, then most likely it is dry.
- Run your palm over the surface of the board. If you feel even the slightest moisture, then you should not buy such a board.

- There is a more reliable way to check the board for moisture, but it requires a drill. Drill through the board; if the wood is wet, steam will be generated during drilling, and instead of dry sawdust, wet fibers will fall out.

And the last rule, under no circumstances, do not buy boards from stacks located in the open air. Even if the stack is covered with cellophane or tarpaulin, this does not protect the boards from increased air humidity during precipitation, and they may end up wet.

When buying a tongue and groove board, ask the seller to show you a certificate of conformity.

Installation of tongue and groove boards

It is best to make floors from tongue-and-groove boards after all finishing work has been completed. The temperature in the room where the boards are installed should not be less than five degrees Celsius. Air humidity should be no more than 30-20%.

As mentioned above, the material from which the tongue and groove board is made is selected depending on the expected load on the floor surface. When there is a heavy load on the surface, boards made of hardwood are used. In rooms with low traffic, coniferous boards will be sufficient.

Choose the quality of the boards and, accordingly, the category based on your financial capabilities and the option of finishing the floor. If you want to cover the floor with transparent varnish, then buy a tongue and groove board of the highest category or category A. For a floor to be painted, boards of category B are suitable. If the floor is made as a base for another coating, then boards of category C will be suitable for its manufacture.

Installation of logs

Installation of logs is carried out on a concrete base or on beam floors. To install joists and boards you will need:

Bars with a cross section of 50x100 millimeters.
Brackets or connecting plates.
Wood screws or nails.
Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
Hammer.
Screwdriver or screwdriver.
Yardstick.
Pencil.
Square.
Level.

The logs are laid on the base, perpendicular to the position of the boards.

Install the first row of joists at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from the wall.
Connect the logs together with brackets, plates, or simply screw them to each other with screws.
Using a level, check the correct position of the entire row of joists. If necessary, level the position of the joists by placing wooden or plastic pads under them.
Install the second row of joists at a distance of 40-50 centimeters from the first row.
Install the remaining rows, remembering to check the level.
If you use boards that are shorter than the length of the room and that do not have a tongue-and-groove lock at the ends, then you need to install additional logs at the joints of the boards.

Installation of boards

Please note that before installation, the boards must “acclimatize” by lying in the room where installation will take place for at least two days.

1. Install the first board on the joists with the tenon facing the wall, at a distance of 10-15 millimeters from the wall.
2. Attach the board to the joists with screws, driving them from the edge of the board and into the base of the tenon at a 40-degree angle.
3. Take the second board and insert its tenon into the groove of the first board. If necessary, carefully tap the board with a hammer for a tight connection and also secure it with screws.

Install the remaining boards this way. Try to recess the screw heads 1-2 millimeters into the board so that they do not interfere with the tenons entering the grooves.
Installation of the last board often involves the need to saw it longitudinally. You can reduce the width of the board using a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.
Do not forget that along the entire perimeter of the coating, you need to leave compensation gaps of 1 to 2 centimeters.
If you are laying boards that are smaller than the size of the room, then it is better to join them not in one line, but in a checkerboard pattern, this will give the coating greater strength.
Since the door threshold bears the greatest load, it is recommended to install additional logs in this place.

You can also see how to install tongue and groove boards in the video:

Finishing the floor

The final finishing of the floor is best done after all repair work has been completed. Otherwise, there is a risk of damaging the decorative layer of the coating.
For finishing you will need:

Putty knife.
Vibratory and belt sanders.
Sandpaper.
Putty.
A set of brushes or a spray gun.
Solvent.
Stain.
Water-based or acrylic-based varnish. If the floor is to be painted, then paint.
Vacuum cleaner.
Mop bucket and rag.

1. Carefully inspect the floor for cracks, chips, rotten areas, knots and irregularities.
2. All detected defects must be leveled with a plane and covered with putty to match the color of the wood from which the boards are made.
3. After the putty has dried, sand the treated areas with fine-grained sandpaper.
4. Check the smoothness of the putty areas and, if necessary, repeat the procedure again.
5. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove all debris and dust from the floor.
6. If you decide to use paint as a decorative coating, then wipe the floor with a damp cloth and start painting.

If you want to use transparent varnish as a coating, then first you need to do additional work on sanding and giving the floor the desired shade.
To sand tongue and groove floors, it is best to use a belt sander. Use it to sand the entire floor surface.
After sanding, vacuum up all the dust and wipe the floors with a damp cloth.
To give the floor the desired shade, use stain, applying it to the boards with a brush or roller.
After the stain has dried, you can apply the first coat of varnish. It is better to do this using a spray gun, evenly spraying the varnish over the surface.
Before applying the second coat of varnish, it is necessary to lightly sand the first layer. This can be done using a vibrating sander and fine-grained sandpaper.
The number of layers applied depends on the quality of the varnish and your desire, but usually 3-4 layers are enough for a normal-looking floor.
After applying the final coat of varnish, let the floors dry completely for a week, after which you can treat the floor with polish and begin using the room.

Detailed instructions for applying varnish to a wooden floor are in the video:

Now it has become fashionable to use special oil to treat floors instead of varnish. There is a reason for using oil, especially for high-traffic areas, because oil is absolutely resistant to abrasion, unlike varnish. In addition, the oil perfectly emphasizes the texture of wood, giving it a soft and warm color.
It is much easier to coat a floor with oil than with varnish, since oil does not require sanding each layer. Oil is applied to wood using both cold and hot methods. Mostly cold application with a brush is used. The number of layers applied depends on the absorbency of the wood; usually two coats are enough.

When painting the floor with oil, make sure it is evenly distributed over the surface and promptly remove smudges. After the oil has dried, the floor surface can be treated with wax.

Please note that violation of the work order and failure to follow instructions when using paints and varnishes can lead to rapid wear of the coating, and in the worst case, to the need for a new floor finish!

You can also find out how to coat a wooden floor with oil by watching the video:

Floor restoration and repair

During the operation of a floor made of tongue and groove boards, certain problems may arise caused by low quality materials or violation of installation technology. Let's look at common breakdowns and how to fix them:

Gaps between boards– occur due to the high moisture content in the boards during their installation. After the laid boards have completely dried, the wood contracts, resulting in the formation of cracks. The most effective way to eliminate this problem is to dismantle the boards and re-lay them on the joists. If the cracks are not large, you can cover them with putty.

Floor creaks- a very common problem that occurs due to friction of joists and boards against each other. Most often, floors begin to creak due to improper installation technology. Perhaps the joists were spaced too far apart, so the boards began to sag when walked and squeak. Another reason may be weak fastening of the boards to the joists. You can try to eliminate the cause of the squeak by screwing in additional screws; if this does not help, you will have to redo the floor again.

Cracking of boards– can happen for two reasons. The first is the wrong choice of flooring material. If the boards are made of soft wood, and the load on the surface is too intense, then over time, the floor will not only crack, but may even completely collapse. The problem can be solved by reducing the load or replacing boards with stronger ones. The second reason is wet wood. After drying, the wood tends to crack. In this case, it is enough to cover the cracks with putty.

Appearance of resin on boards– caused by the final drying of the wood. To get rid of resin, just remove it with a spatula, sand the area where it appears, and if the floor is covered with varnish or paint, apply a new layer of coating.

Varnish peeling– can happen from getting a large amount of water on the surface or due to applying varnish to wet wood. In any case, it is necessary to remove the old coating with a spatula and a sander, let the boards dry and apply new layers of varnish.

Rotting of joists and the inside of the boards occurs due to high humidity and insufficient air circulation under the floor. The problem will have to be solved by opening the floor, installing ventilation, replacing joists and rotten boards.

If after reading the article you have questions, you can ask them in the comments, we will be happy to answer them!

The use of natural and environmentally friendly materials in finishing is perhaps the most popular modern trend in this area. This also applies to floor coverings.

For example, wooden floorboards, thanks to a new level of processing quality, are now a material that is in active demand. Although laminate and linoleum also have their advantages, it is difficult for them to compare with a covering made of warm, pleasant-to-touch wood: such a floor can create a truly unique atmosphere of comfort in a room.

How to lay floor boards? What methods are there for installing it? By what criteria are they selected? Below you will find answers to these and other questions.

What can floor boards be laid on?

Depending on the characteristics of the room and your choice, laying floor boards can be done:

on a concrete base;
on wooden logs;
on glue.

This kind of work can be done with your own hands - it is enough to have at least minimal skills in finishing.

Important point- regardless of how the floorboard will be laid, you must first unpack it in the room where it is planned to be installed and leave it there for 7-10 days. This is necessary to “acclimatize” the material. Another nuance - laying the floor boards should be carried out at a temperature of at least 17°C and not higher than 25°C. Failure to comply with this rule may lead to loss of aesthetic properties of the material and its deformation.

Laying floorboards on joists

As a rule, laying floorboards on joists is done in old houses, the distinctive feature of which is wooden floors between floors. If we are talking about a room on the ground floor, then preliminary installation of a waterproofing base will be required, which is most often used as roofing material. It is laid with an overlap on the walls. After installation, the joints are sealed.

Upon completion of waterproofing work, they are installed lags- wooden beams impregnated with an antiseptic composition. The thickness of the lag is usually 50-70 mm. With a standard tongue thickness of 35 mm, the logs are installed in increments of 60-75 cm. During the installation of the base, it is necessary to take care of sound insulation. For this, expanded clay, mineral wool or other sound-absorbing materials can be used.

How to properly lay floor boards on joists? Material is laid groove towards the master, tenon forward. The first board is fixed with self-tapping screws where the baseboard will go over it. If the length of the boards is short, then they are joined on logs.

Important point- if you want to lay a high-quality tongue-and-groove floor on joists, the distance between them should be the same. Also, when installing plank flooring, you need to take into account that after the work is completed, the floor height will increase by 15 cm. This can be critical for rooms with low ceilings.

Laying floorboards with glue

This method is most often used when installing floors in rooms with low ceilings. The technology for laying floor boards with glue is similar to installing parquet, with the difference that in addition to glue, self-tapping screws are used to fix the boards. For long boards, adhesives based on synthetic resins or epoxy-polyurethane glue are required. Can be used for installing short boards any glue of sufficient strength, including:

dispersive;
epoxy;
polyurethane.

Important point- it is possible to lay a tongue-and-groove floor with glue only if the surface of the boards and the base is perfectly flat.

Laying on a concrete base

The first stage of work is the installation of waterproofing (primer mastic or a layer of polyurethane) on the concrete floor. In this case, the mastic is applied using a roller. The polyurethane film is laid on the floor with an overlap.

Important point- laying a floor with a floorboard on a concrete base is advisable only if you are confident in its strength and the absence of changes. If there is no such confidence, then you need to re-make the concrete screed.

Before laying the floor with a floorboard, it is necessary to install the joists. They are attached to the concrete floor with screws, after which boards are laid perpendicularly on them. If this fastening option is not possible due to electrical wires and other communications that are located inside the concrete base, then bitumen mastic is used to fix the logs. The mastic layer in this case also acts as a moisture-protective layer.

After installing the logs, insulation is placed in the space between them, which not only prevents heat loss, but also provides protection from noise. The last stage of work before laying the floorboard is installation of a waterproofing film over the joists.

Larch flooring from Angara Plus: will withstand anything

The range of the Angara Plus company includes such material as. If durability, aesthetics and strength of the floor covering are important to you, larch will be an excellent choice. The impeccable quality of the board's processing, beautiful wood grain and the absence of defects have made this item a real hit in our assortment.

Recently, the market for artificial building materials has begun to develop more and more actively. However, natural wood is still in great demand among people. This is not strange, because such a material has natural beauty and strength, which is a necessary condition for construction and finishing work.

Wood floors have always been and will be in demand due to the fact that this material is natural, safe and attractive.

Next, we will consider the method of laying floorboards, which is used most often. All the main nuances of the work will be described here. Thanks to this technology, floor boards will always be smooth and durable. This is what is required for this type of work. The technology for laying floorboards will be discussed in more detail a little further, but first you need to select all the most necessary tools and materials.

Tools and materials

To lay floorboards you need: a screwdriver, a hammer, nails, screws, a jigsaw, a tape measure, etc.

To carry out work related to laying floorboards on the base, you need to acquire the following tools and materials:

tongue and groove board;
glassine;
mineral wool;
bars;
mount;
saw;
hammer;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
Sander.

These materials will be sufficient to make the technology of laying floorboards feasible. When everything is assembled, you can proceed directly to the installation work, which begins with installing the logs.

Installation of logs: features

The technology for laying floorboards involves the use of logs. Most often, wooden blocks are used for their installation. The beam must be mounted on an edge. In this case, a certain gap must be maintained between each lag. Most often, it is made no more than 1 m. In this case, the floor will be more rigid, and this is necessary for the technology of laying floorboards. Here you can establish one very simple rule: the thicker the board is used, the larger the step can be left between each structural element.

After the logs are laid in their rightful places, it is worth checking their horizontalness again. This is done using a level. In this case, you can use the most primitive liquid tool. Now the logs must be secured. Self-tapping screws and dowels are used for these purposes. In some situations, anchor bolts can be used. This will be appropriate to do when the timber is too thick.

Thermal insulation and its nuances

Insulation must be laid between the joists.

The thermal insulation layer is an integral part of any floor. It will keep the house warm even in the most severe frosts. A variety of materials can be used to construct the thermal insulation layer. If we are talking about laying floorboards on the 2nd floor, then there is no need to organize thermal insulation here - this stage of work is skipped.

It is mandatory to install it on the 1st floor. Mineral wool is used for work. It can be in the form of slabs or simply in its normal form. It doesn't matter. The most important thing is to lay it out correctly. This is done quite easily. It should be located between the bars that were installed earlier. In this case, it is laid in a layer 10 cm thick.

A waterproofing material must be placed on top of the mineral wool. You can use glassine or roofing felt. Option 2 is preferable, since the material is cheaper and more reliable. It should be secured with a stapler. At this point, the stage of work related to floor insulation can be considered complete. Now you can proceed directly to laying the floorboard.

Floorboards must be thoroughly dried before installation.

This is the most important and responsible stage of all work. The future integrity of the structure directly depends on how well the floorboard is laid. The boards must be prepared before laying. They need to be dried thoroughly. To do this, the material should be placed in a warm and dry place for about a week. Only in this case will the board be properly prepared for work.

In fact, drying takes much longer, but this will be quite enough to prevent warping of the material. Warping is quite a dangerous phenomenon. Raw products cannot be used to lay boards on the floor. There is a very high probability of cracks appearing on them, which can appear both during the work and during the operation of the floor.

The first board must be laid at some distance from the wall. 2 cm is sufficient. This measure will help prevent deformation of the structure if the material changes its dimensions during operation. In order to fix the board before attaching it, be sure to install wedges in the distance between the wall and it. In this case, the gap will not change during the process of fastening the material.

The direction of laying the boards is chosen perpendicular to the previously installed logs. A tongue and groove board is used here. This means that the fastening is carried out using a lock. It's quite primitive here. The groove of one board fits onto the veneer of another. At the same time, do not forget about additional fastening. Self-tapping screws will be used for these purposes. They are screwed in using a screwdriver. Their length is selected in accordance with the thickness of the floorboards.

It is best to install self-tapping screws in the groove of the board. Then you will be able to avoid the appearance of caps protruding above the surface. They will be hidden very elegantly. When the work is completed, the screws will not be visible. That is why tongue and groove boards are the best option for flooring. All subsequent structural elements are mounted using the same method as discussed above.

Thus, the result is a very nice floor that can already be used for its intended purpose. However, it is better to sand it down to make it smoother and more attractive.

Floor sanding: some important points

After the wooden floor is made, all that remains is to carefully sand it. For these purposes, a special grinding machine is used. This tool can be purchased today in almost any specialized store. If you don’t want to purchase it, you can ask your neighbors or friends to rent it. Using a sanding machine, you can easily and simply get rid of all surface irregularities, as well as eliminate joints between boards. An excellent tool that is often needed on the farm. Instead of a grinder, you can use a regular grinder. With its help you can perfectly treat the surface. The grinding process itself does not take that much time.

The result should be an absolutely flat base without any defects. Joints and other irregularities must be completely eliminated. After the grinding process is completed, you can begin the final stage of work, which consists of treating the surface with a special protective compound.

This measure is necessary when working with wood.

You can cover floorboards with an antiseptic.

To preserve the original appearance of the floorboards, they must be treated with an antiseptic.

You can use a transparent or translucent version of this substance. This will preserve the original appearance of the wood. Often it is she who decorates the house. Antiseptics will protect the surface from the formation of fungus and mold. Microorganisms that can harm human health will not develop on it.

Alternatively, paint or varnish can be used. These coatings cope well with the aggressive effects of external factors.

Thus, the process of laying the floorboard can be considered complete. As is clear, there is nothing complicated about this. All work is done quite quickly. The most important thing is to strictly follow the instructions given above at each stage. This will make the floor truly strong, reliable and durable. The use of natural materials always brings its own zest to even the most ordinary-looking structure.

Absolutely any floor made from natural wood will serve its owner faithfully for many years. The above was specially created for those who in the near future are planning to start arranging a wooden floor in their home or country house.