A few days ago I managed to get into production plastic windows. Can you say that you have already seen something similar, and you definitely won’t learn anything new? I thought so too, until I saw everything with my own eyes, and I am sure that you have never seen a more detailed and interesting report like this. Especially for community readers, a report from the Moscow Windows company factory.
This is a reinforcing profile, an integral element of the window, which serves to strengthen the structure. You need to pay attention to the presence of reinforcement in the profile when purchasing.
Very soon it will end up inside plastic profiles.
Window profiles are supplied to the plant from the largest manufacturer in Russia similar products Rehau company.
First, the profile goes to the machine, where it is cut according to a given program. The length of the blanks may vary.
Then all the technological holes that are necessary for further operation of the window are made in the blanks. Including in order to screw a steel core with a plastic profile.
On this shelf there is a reinforcing element of different sizes.
After all the holes are made, the worker inserts a steel reinforcing profile into the plastic and the machine itself screws the reinforcement.
And sticks a sticker with a barcode on it, which contains all the information about this product. Now you can be sure that this part will find its place when assembling the window.
The screws enter the machine from these vibrating buckets. Interesting thing, this is the first time I've seen one like this.
The container with screws shakes, they are placed head up on the tape and go deep into the machine to become one with the future plastic window.
In parallel with the frame, window sashes are made on the next line; the manufacturing process is exactly the same.
After the reinforced elements are screwed to the workpieces, they go to the site where they are welded into a single whole - into a frame or sashes.
This welding machine has 4 heads, which simultaneously heat the frame/sash seam to be glued to 250 degrees for about 40 seconds. By the way, taking into account this operation, initially the length of each workpiece is 6 mm longer than the norm. 3mm each. goes to welding on each side.
These blue posts are equipped with sensors that cause the machine to start the welding process automatically after the worker has placed the workpieces and left the welding area.
This is what the frame corner looks like after welding.
Then the seams are cleaned of burrs on another machine, with virtually no human intervention.
These are lintels in the windows.
Let's take one of them and check it with a scanner. Let's find out where it will be installed in the future.
All information about the product is immediately displayed on the computer screen, down to which seal was installed in the jumper. This is how far technology has come!)
But we will go further. In the next section, seals are placed on the frame. Black, white, gray - the color depends on the taste of the customer, but they all serve to ensure that the sash closes tightly and subsequently the window is not blown out.
This white seal is a tongue-and-groove profile that serves to prevent dust and dirt from getting inside the frame.
Various sizes, depending on the features of the window.
Then the fittings are screwed to the plastic special tool, which does it faster than a screwdriver.
But some elements are screwed on manually - a template is applied to the frame, the fittings are placed evenly in place, and screwed on with a screwdriver.
For convenience during transportation and installation, the handle is screwed on.
After the seals are installed and the fittings are screwed, the frame and sash are “married.” It is checked how well both parts of the window fit together - the wizard opens and closes the window several times.
Then he places the window on the workbench and applies silicone to the lower part.
and screws on this profile. Previously, it performed a simple utilitarian function - it served to ensure that when unloading and loading windows Bottom part the frame was not scratched and deteriorated on the ground, floor, etc.
Now it is tightly glued and screwed. When installed, it will be walled up and will not be visible. It is to this that the window sills and the casting of the new window will be screwed.
The master also installs the fittings, setting the size according to the template.
The doors are waiting for their turn.
A worker from the technical control department checks the window in the same way as the previous master.
And he puts a stamp confirming that everything is in order and the window is ready for the final operation. Thus, each finished window is tested by the quality department.
A finished double-glazed window is inserted into the frame and sash, which is manufactured in the same production.
There is also a sticker on the glass with a barcode, which identifies the required window.
The glass is secured with glazing beads, which are driven into the frames and sashes with inside.
At the top there is a display that allows workers to see how far they are behind or on track for that day. If the number is on a green background, then everything is in order, production is not behind the plan.
Well, the windows are ready, they are installed on the “pyramid”
and will soon end up in a warehouse, from where they will be sent to their customers.
Oh yes, I almost forgot, I didn’t tell you about the most interesting thing in this production - about cutting glass and how double-glazed windows are made.
Everything starts from this place. A sheet of glass measuring 2.2 x 3.2 meters is dropped onto a special table, onto the surface of which a dense, soft material is glued.
At the same time, it does not break into thousands of fragments, but lands softly.
Let's see what it looks like from above.
The sheet of glass is adjusted evenly on the table by the master so that the glass cutting machine cuts out all the pieces correctly.
A modern glass cutter uses the most modern technologies, and works according to a program that was developed by specialists from the Moscow Windows company. It cuts glass with a special diamond nozzle, thereby eliminating even the slightest chips and cracks at the edges of the glass. This is very important for the further operation of double-glazed windows.
The roller glides over a smooth surface, leaving barely visible stripes.
After the glass cutter has finished his dance, the master breaks off the glass
and places them on stands.
The machine can also cut such glass if the customer wants arched windows.
When cutting glass, some of it goes to waste. This cullet will later be sold back to the factory where the glass is made.
At the request of the client, in addition to ordinary transparent glass, decorative, sun-protection or heat-saving glass can be installed in the windows, which reflect more thermal energy. You can see the difference in the picture.
After the glass is cut, it goes to the sink. This ensures that there is no dust or dirt inside the new glass unit.
The glass is dried in the same apparatus.
A sticker with data is immediately affixed to the glass.
And special stickers with a hologram are placed on heat-reflecting glass.
With the help of such frameworks.
The frames around the perimeter and corners are lubricated with sealant.
The master glues a frame to the glass, glass on it, another frame, and again glass if the client wants to get a three-layer glass unit.
The first association that arises when you mention Euro-windows is single-chamber or double-chamber PVC structures white. These are the windows that are installed in most apartments and private houses, replacing the outdated ones. frame structures. An alternative to plastic windows, which are inferior to wooden ones in terms of environmental friendliness, but are superior in terms of operational characteristics– Euro-windows made of wood. They have impressive parameters and appearance at the same level, and they are “friendly” with the environment. Unlike a plastic one, a wooden window frame with a proud “euro” prefix can be made independently. Making wooden windows with your own hands is a common thing for many FORUMHOUSE users.
- Eurowindow - what it is and how it’s done
- DIY wooden windows
- Materials, tools, drawings, connection of elements
- Templates from the corner
- Chamfering, assembly, finishing
DIY Eurowindow
Eurowindow - what is it and how is it done?
Eurowindow is a structure consisting of a frame, double-glazed windows and perimeter fittings controlled by a handle.
Perimeter fittings are a prefabricated harness made up of several parts mounted along the entire perimeter of the profile. It provides locking of the sash at several points, using one handle, which allows you to achieve the tightest possible fit and eliminates blowing. Thanks to this fittings, a window with an opening sash can operate in two modes – tilt and turn. In the rotary mode, the window opens only by turning; in the combined mode, the window sash opens and tilts.
Fundamental design difference"euro" from regular windows- This is one frame in which several double-glazed windows can stand. Home from technical characteristics“Euro” – complete tightness achieved through various seals. Thermal conductivity will depend on the number of air chambers, and on the type of glass in the double-glazed window, and on the correct installation of the window. Therefore, the material from which the profile is made does not play a significant role; the functionality of the structure and its characteristics are important.
DIY wooden windows
The process of manufacturing a wooden euro-window will require certain financial investments– costs of wood, components, equipment. It is also easier to order double-glazed windows from professionals, although some craftsmen manage to assemble this unit themselves. But also considering the impressive cost finished product, which is an elite and therefore quite expensive product, the savings will be substantial. If we're talking about about building new house or about full glazing of the old one, the difference can be tens of thousands.
Materials, tools, drawings, connection of elements
Windows are constantly exposed to external influences and temperature differences between indoors and outdoors, which inevitably leads to changes in the geometry of the structure when it comes to wood. To minimize possible warping, frames and sashes are made not from solid timber, but from laminated veneer lumber. You can purchase a ready-made one if there are reliable suppliers, or you can glue it yourself. In the second case, a workpiece of at least three lamellas is assembled, so that the fibers are directed in opposite sides. If possible, choose radial sawn wood; tangential sawn wood “leads” more. For gluing, special, moisture-resistant compounds should be used.
The section of the beam is chosen based on the number of double-glazed windows - for a window with one chamber, a 6x4 cm beam is usually used. In production conditions, grooves are selected in the frame not only for the double-glazed window and external seals, but also for internal ones. One of the former manufacturers of wooden European windows shared his drawings, by simplifying which you can get high-quality structures that are almost as good as ready-made ones. In order to do this, the drawings are quite suitable.
Considering that professional equipment Not everyone has it, and its purchase will negate all savings and is justified only for the purpose of making windows for sale; home craftsmen choose grooves for double-glazed windows, external sealing and fittings.
For these purposes, use a router, a circular saw, hand tool for finishing. Members of our portal are equipped with all necessary equipment And Ravildon I decided to make a window together with my brother (nickname Halva senior) for his house.
Ravildon FORUMHOUSE Member
We had hand tools, machines and other devices. We welded a table, attached a hand router to it, bought a microtenon cutter and a movable carriage, and decided to dial the profile in length and thickness. A purchased profile costs from 1,600 rubles for six meters, so we will trim finished timber, glue it, then gain thickness.
Halvasenior FORUMHOUSE Member
They made this kind of pepelats: I had guides with carriages lying around, welded the frame, attached a manual circular saw to the movable table, and the result was a simple impostnik. The grooves are rectangular, so you can do without shaped cutters. The cutting depth is adjusted by a movable stop, the height by a set of plates and rectangular pipes. I cut the groove in five passes, changing the linings, and finished it with a file.
The brothers trained on waste, and the results were recorded in a journal so that in the future they could choose the most successful option. Once we got the hang of it, we started making the frames themselves.
Another of our forum members used ready-made laminated veneer lumber. The photos show this whole big process in detail.
cyan__ FORUMHOUSE Member
The purchased timber was passed through a thicknesser and a trimmer, on a circular saw with a homemade device (high rip fence with guides and 0.5 mm rulers) made tenons and a profile, glued them together, selected the fitting grooves with a router, hung the fittings - checked how they worked, removed them, sanded them for painting. There are no special tricks, but you either need to have experience in carpentry, or first make several throwaway frames - practice.
Since the double-glazed window is planned to be double-chambered, overall cross section The timber turned out to be 80x78 mm.
If equipment and experience allow, the frame elements are cut obliquely, at an angle of 45⁰; they can be joined without a bevel, which, although less decorative, is technically easier. The parts are assembled using a tongue-and-groove joint, with the vertical parts being lugs and the horizontal parts being tenons. It is easier to make a single joint, but a double joint is stronger and more durable, since the gluing area increases; a triple tenon is even stronger. When there is only one tenon, it is worth additionally strengthening the frame with a corner, since the double-glazed window significantly makes the structure heavier.
Member of our portal cyan__ tells how to make a wooden window using a three-tenon joint.
cyan__
I made three tenons for myself and put them on PU D4 glue, on another glue and one tenon under the double-glazed window, I would probably put a corner. As a test, you can glue one corner and test it for strength and deformation, loading it along the hypotenuse with a mass of one and a half glass units. Then it will become clear whether additional reinforcement is needed.
Templates from the corner
Halva senior assembled a box of two lamellas to make it easier to select quarters and grooves for seals circular saw. There was no dried timber of the required thickness, either solid or glued, on sale at that time; we had to make do with material with a smaller cross-section. But the timber we found was dry, already jointed on all sides. The frames were glued onto a smooth fugue due to the lack of a comb of suitable width. To be on the safe side, the structure was reinforced with self-tapping screws - diagonally, from the edge to the center (the fastener heads will later be hidden by a quarter). After the final blowing with pneumatics, the finished frames were given to the eldest son for finishing - for putty
Windows made industrially are no better than so-called do-it-yourself windows - the photo confirms this.
The grooves for fittings in the sashes are selected based on its type and dimensions. To make your work easier, Halva senior I made metal templates, according to which I selected all the necessary grooves.
Halva senior
Before cutting the tenon and groove, I prepared the grooves for the locks - I made a template from a bent steel angle. The holes are 8 mm in diameter, the screw hole is 10 mm in diameter. First, mark the centers, then drill 8 holes - depth 26 mm. I set the stop and used a hand router to combine the holes into a groove, dimensions: depth 28 mm, width 8 mm. I did without length limiters - the boundaries of the groove can be felt to the touch.
Chamfering, assembly, finishing
A cut or rounded corner is covered with a thicker layer paint and varnish materials, than sharp, therefore, more resistant to all external influences. Forum member Sukhov76 who made himself wooden windows, advises his own method.
Sukhov76 FORUMHOUSE Member
Instead of chamfering at 45⁰, it is better to round the corner by a radius of 3 mm - it looks more aesthetically pleasing and lies well under paint. Paints and varnishes are “afraid” of sharp edges, according to the law of surface tension, on sharp surfaces the paint layer is thinner, and according to the law of meanness, it is the edges that are the most vulnerable in operation, and the coating wears off faster, but on a radius the layer is even and is more difficult to damage.
Collected window frames and the doors are sanded and treated with special impregnations, then varnished or painted. In order for each subsequent layer to apply well and last a long time, all compositions used must be on the same base, water, etc. The glass in the frame is secured with glazing beads.
It’s not enough to make a window with your own hands - the video on our portal will teach you how to paint it correctly to protect the surface for many years!
For the second floor of your house cyan__ I also made wooden windows myself, using the technology already given. After the blanks were cut, grooves and tenon joints were selected, holes for fittings and frames were assembled, the final part remained - finishing and installing glass.
cyan__
Primed and painted the outer white side. Then, by sanding, I removed paint drips on the masking tape in a couple of places - the inner, translucent one. The stain is not paint; on the white side, if anything happens, it can be easily wiped off with a wet rag. I installed the glass on spacers and nailed the glazing beads - a copper nail every ten centimeters looks good. I sealed it with neutral (this is important) silicone; acidic silicone can destroy the sealant of the bag. I turned it over onto a sheet of foam rubber and sealed the reverse side, mounted the fittings, mounting plates and inserted it into the opening. The final stage I adjusted the sash and inserted seals into the grooves.
Conclusion
Making a wooden window with your own hands is an opportunity not so much to save money as to express yourself. Long years a beautiful, environmentally friendly design will remind you not of the money spent, but of your own skill.
Everything related to technical parameters and features of Eurowindows, as well as step by step instructions, diagrams, installation details and product characteristics different manufacturers are discussed in the section. Details of the manufacture of the wooden windows mentioned in the article are laid out step by step in the topic “”. After studying the article about, you will learn how to obtain high-quality and durable timber for future frames. How without dismantling old frame replace wooden windows with your own hands - video about new technology answers this question.
Let's continue to get acquainted with how plastic windows are assembled.
Since not everyone liked the previous post, I can suggest passing it by. Don't waste your nerves and time looking at information you don't need.
And so, we continue to get acquainted with how plastic windows are assembled.
In the last post there was a storm of indignation, supposedly unnecessary information, a view from the barn, and so on. Perhaps I should have explained right away that large enterprises there really isn't that much on the windows. In any city. The bulk are just such small workshops. The same goes for furniture, cinder blocks, and a lot of other things. For example, in our city there are only 5 offices that actually have factory production, and there are about thirty firms in total. A reasonable question arises: if there are five large enterprises, then what is the rest? But there are such small workshops.
And a big company does not mean quality. And there is no less dust and debris in such workshops than in ours. And the equipment generally doesn’t care where to work, in open field“under a canopy”, or in a room lined with marble, the main thing is that there is electricity and compliance with the temperature regime.
And regarding the hand-wringing and uselessness of the impost frame: any whim for your money. There are opportunities to make such windows, and they will work, but the fittings for such a sash will be an order of magnitude more expensive. and if someone has gotten the reins under their tail and has the finances to carry out their whim, then “for the sake of it, please.” But not everyone has such opportunities; for some, the cheaper, the better.
But let's go back to the windows, to the barn. I finished by assembling the frames, that is, welding the frame and sash. Now let's put it all together. We cut an impost into the frame. We won't cut anything, this is prof. slang. Sorry, but it's a habit))))
To do this, drill holes in the frame. Everything follows the markup and template.
2
3
4
We make markings for the strikers: clamps that hold the sash so that it does not open.
5
Next we will rubberize the sash and frame.
A small clarification: at the time of photographing I did not have work, in fact I had a day off, so some of the photos show an inconsistency. In this photo the frame is already rubberized. Well, I had to take illicit goods to photograph some operations, so dirt is visible on some frames, sorry.
And I forgot to take a photo of one more operation, how the drainage grooves and air compensation holes are made. Even despite the tight pressure, some moisture still gets inside the frame, it doesn’t matter from rain, snow or fog, the water will find a hole, and so that the water flows onto the street, and not into the room, drainage grooves are needed. And in order for the water to actually drain, and not remain inside despite the grooves through which it should flow, air compensation holes are needed, the principle raw egg. I hope I explained it clearly.)))
So, back to the tires.
6
Each compartment has its own, one goes under the double-glazed window, and another goes under the clamp on the sash and frame.
I'll post a photo, but it's not very good good quality, I don’t know whether the difference and difference between each type will be clear.
7
Now we put the fittings on the sash, or make a strapping, as we say.
We drill the bottom hinge according to the template, and then screw the fittings in a circle inside the sash, where the fitting groove goes.
And yes, hinges are also screwed onto the frame, but I also forgot to capture this moment.)))
8
9
10
11
Since the locks and “scissors” go to the doors from one size to another, for example from 500 to 800 (sorry if I explained it crookedly), then we cut off the excess length using pneumatic shears, a sort of miniature guillotine.
12
13
After cutting we fix it ready-made fittings on the sash.
14
15
Now about the scissors. This is exactly the part of the fittings that allows the sash to be in the “tilting” position, allowing the window to be open not swinging, but acting as a window.
16
The window is assembled. The next stage is glazing bead. It goes with the same sticks, so we also cut it into a certain size.
17
In general, double-glazed windows are not only height and width, they are also thickness. For example, for the 70th series of plastic (we mainly work on the 60th series, the difference is in the thickness of the profile and the number of chambers inside the plastic) there is a different thickness of the glass unit, and accordingly the glazing bead is different. But what can we say if the frame is all one glass? Therefore, there are also several types of glazing beads.
18
Since part of the glazing bead, when glazing, will rest against the adjacent glazing bead, or rather, against a part of the adjacent glazing bead, we gnaw off this part, so as not to get in the way, or rather bite it off. Dentists are expensive these days, so let’s take care of our teeth)))
19
20
21
Now the window is completely ready. Or rather collected. We've reached the finish line: glazing.
Since the plastic inside, where the double-glazed windows will be located, has a slight bevel for water drainage, the package will not stand on a flat surface. This may result in one of the glasses breaking. To prevent this from happening, rebated liners and linings are used, which will ensure that the double-glazed window does not burst.
Plastic windows quickly and confidently replace their wooden relatives due to their excellent performance qualities. Self-production A plastic window that is also of high quality is not an easy task, but it is possible. In this article we will tell you how to make a plastic window yourself. Let's take a three-chamber profile as a basis. PVC windows from other types of profiles are made according to the same principle.
Necessary equipment
To make windows you will need:
- table saw with variable cutting angle (for cutting profiles);
- tsulagi for cutting glazing beads;
- a roller table for a saw, if you do not want to take measurements with a tape measure;
- grinder or saw designed for cutting reinforcing profiles;
- single-head, or even better, double-head welding machine;
- manual pneumatic machine - needed for cleaning corners from the outside (“dovetail”);
- desktop copy-milling machine;
- desktop machine necessary for processing the ends of the impost;
- manual pneumatic angle cleaning machine for processing PVC profiles("crocodile");
- compressor;
- template for drilling holes in the frame for the impost;
- two templates for drilling holes for hinges (one for the frame and the other for the sash);
- templates for hanging frame and sash fittings;
- drills 3 mm, 5 mm, 10 mm;
- self-tapping screws: 10 mm (with a drill for reinforcement), 25 mm (for fastening fittings), 40 mm (for fastening hinges under the sash, 70 mm (for screwing the impost to the frame);
- chisel.
Stages of work
Profile cutting. For a square or rectangular window, cutting the profile should be done at a saw angle of 90˚. When cutting the profile, add a few millimeters for welding. On the profile, immediately label the horizontal and vertical lines with a marker, so that you don’t later get confused and solder the vertical to the vertical.
Reinforcement. Cut the reinforcement profile (iron) to 90 mm smaller size frame profile - 2 pieces each (2 verticals, 2 horizontals). U-shaped iron is suitable for the frame. Insert the iron into the frame profile, making sure that the iron is strictly in the middle. Screw the iron to the profile from the back of the frame using 10 mm self-tapping screws and a drill. The distance between screws should be ≤ 200 mm.
Drilling external drains to release condensate. The procedure for drilling holes is performed only on the bottom horizontal of the frame using a copy-milling machine. The recommended length of drains is 27 mm, and the interval between them is from 550 to 700 mm.
Welding frame corners. Before starting work, carefully study the functions welding machine and set the necessary parameters: welding and clamping pressure, welding temperature, welding time and cooling. After this, proceed to welding the frame corners.
Cleaning the frame. Using a manual pneumatic angle-cleaning machine, carefully clean the frame welds on both the front and back sides, setting the desired angle for cleaning. Then use a hand pneumatic sander to sand the outside corners of the frame. Finally, use a chisel to clean the weld seams located in internal corners frames - in the pass under the sealing rubber.
Measure the location of the impost on the frame, then put on the template and drill through the plastic with a 10 mm drill so that the impost connector fits. Pierce the outer wall of the frame and the iron with a 5 mm drill.
Measuring and cutting out the impost. Measure the size of the impost along the frame (between the two glazing beads) and add a few millimeters. After sawing off the impost the right size, process its ends on the machine.
Impost reinforcement. The reinforcement (iron) in the impost is rectangular in shape. The cut-off part of the iron is attached to the bottom wall of the impost using self-tapping screws.
Impost insertion. Install the impost connectors into the frame holes and secure on both sides with 70 mm self-tapping screws. Next, using a drill with a 5 mm drill bit, remove the walls between the frame and the impost in the pass for the sealing rubber (to roll the rubber in a circle). Start and finish rolling the rubber from the top of the frame.
Internal drains in the frame. Using a 5 mm drill, make several drains at approximately an angle of 30-35˚ (three holes - one drain). The distance should not exceed 50 mm -70 mm between internal and external drains.
Measuring and filing the sash. The calculation of the sash dimensions depends on the sash opening in the frame. Take a measurement from one glazing bead to another and add 15 mm - 20 mm (taking into account the soldering of 6 mm). File the sash profile.
Sash reinforcement. It is done in the same way as on the frame profile, but from the inside of the sash profile. It is unacceptable to screw a self-tapping screw into the middle of the sash profile.
Drains in the sash. Performed as in a frame using a drill with a 5 mm drill bit.
Holes for handle. Drill a 10 mm drill, exactly in the middle of the profile stick.
Welding and cleaning the sash. Do the same as on the frame, only completely clean the outer corners with a dovetail.
Rolling up the sealing rubber. Hang fittings on both sides of the sash and on the frame. Drill holes on the frame for the top and bottom hinges, and then drill holes on the sash for the bottom hinge. Secure the sash to the frame and close. Next, install the double-glazed windows and secure with glazing beads. The window is ready!
“Every fool can do it for money, but try it without money” (with Lebed, in my opinion) :)
It all started as usual: there is a great need, but no money to implement it. So I had to turn on my brain. :)
In general, it is given: big house no windows. Something needs to be done about this... It is possible to make wooden windows yourself, but without the appropriate tools, it is very time consuming and difficult. After tinkering with one window, I realized that I would make a complete set for retirement. Therefore, I began to look for an alternative.
Why look for her? The alternative is here it is. Plastic. Cheap, technologically advanced, thoughtful, simple. It’s not for nothing that companies and companies producing windows have such great amount. But their prices are steep (for me, at least)...
The Internet is a great thing. It took me a week to find the necessary nuggets of knowledge among thousands of pages of verbiage from sales managers, namely: how it works, what it’s called, what the welding temperature is, where to look for profile suppliers and other important questions.
Most important question"how to weld them" was resolved very simply: a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes which everyone has modern plumber and which can be rented for pennies, easily provides the desired temperature.
Having figured it all out, I bought some required material(frame profile and amplifier), cut it to size, and tried to weld it. First I welded the scraps. How does welding happen? Yes, just gently press the parts to a heated soldering iron, count to 30 seconds, watching how the ends of the parts melt and then squeeze them together. Leave for another 30 seconds to cool down.
Test result:
The “weld” here is not very thick, but for test welding it’s quite decent.
"Here!!! The casket just opens!" - with these words, I, filled with pride in my ingenuity, ran around the apartment, showing this unsightly piece of plastic to the household. :) After that, I started the car and went to the profile supplier to buy the entire set.
So, what is required for production:
1. The profile itself (frame, sash, impost, glazing beads) plus steel reinforcements plus all sorts of small things.
2. Machine for welding plastic (see photo).
So to speak, evaluate the idea. :)
Don't pay attention to the window in the background - it's wooden, taken as a "glass donor".
The following are important in the machine:
1. A flat surface so that the parts being welded do not turn out to be a “screw”. I used a couple of sides from an old cabinet.
2. Guides fixed at an angle of 90 degrees. In my case, 2 profile trims worked.
Next, cut the workpieces. Plastic - with a regular wood saw, steel amplifiers with a hacksaw for metal. If you mess up a little, don’t worry: the welding allowance is 3 millimeters for each workpiece, so welding will fix everything. :)
The pieces cut to size are welded. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that when welding the last, 4th corner, you need an assistant - pull out the soldering iron, because it is pinched.
Note: “milling the ends of the impost” (i.e. the ends of these sticks need to be cut out figuratively) - there is nothing complicated here (it’s a little tedious only because it’s easy to cut “in the wrong direction”), first they are cut out with a hacksaw (it carefully cuts plastic) those places that can be cut with a saw, and all sorts of curly things - with an ordinary “pioneer” jigsaw.
Working together is more fun.
Then... then comes the installation of windows in the openings.
“What about double-glazed windows?”, you ask. More on double-glazed windows.
Therefore, it is better to buy the double-glazed windows themselves (a double-glazed window is 2 or 3 glasses, they are separated by a so-called “distance frame” and the whole thing is glued together) at the factory. They are inexpensive.
This is why Kroilovo happened: over the winter I collected old wooden frames, took the glass out of them (i.e. the glass came out for nothing). The distance frame is sold in packs of 900 meters, 2 kilometers... :), but the world is not without kind people, and they sold me the 70 meters of frame I needed plus three kilograms of molecular sieve (it is poured inside the frames and over time dries the air between the glasses). Butyl tape for the primary sealing layer, polysulfide for the secondary one is sold by the meter and kilogram, so there were no problems with them.
I've never cut glass. But... the Internet, the Internet. :) After reading several articles about how to do it correctly and which glass cutter is better, I bought an oil-cut “Chinese” for 75 rubles, assembled the table and everything turned out surprisingly easy and relaxed.
Here's a photo of the cutting table:
We assembled the double-glazed windows, debunking the latest myth that the glass for assembling double-glazed windows can only be properly cleaned by a special machine :).
We inserted it and...received severe disappointment. Old glasses have uneven surface and the image in them is distorted, “floating”. In old windows, when the glass is located at some distance from each other, this is not so noticeable. But as soon as you put them together in a package, you get a “distorting mirror”. Here is a birch tree swaying outside the window 30 meters from the house, and at the same time it looks either thick or thin. :)
About a month later, these distortions finally got to me and, having bought a set of bags at the factory, I took the homemade ones out of the windows and inserted the factory ones.
In the end this is what happened:
The shooting point is somewhat unusual, from about 4 meters in height. He climbed onto the roof of the UAZ, took off his luggage, and took a picture of the house. :)
PS: I am not advocating making windows yourself. :)
I deliberately do not disclose the budget for this event, respecting the work of those whose bread is the production of windows.