How to assemble a hand from metals. Metal crafts. Bill Pearl and Chuck Sipes

Good day, Soldiers! Each person, before starting to develop finger strikes, and even more so, to strengthen them, first needs to answer the question: “Why, in fact, do I need such specific training”?

This question must be answered at least so that in the future you do not regret wasted time. For this reason, first everyone needs to decide what role the fingers play in the combat system being studied.
And, based on common sense, it may turn out that there is absolutely no need for any specific training.

And there is no tragedy in this. Boxers, for example, don’t train their fingers at all and don’t have any complexes about it.

There should always be a purpose to finger training. For example, health promotion. The fact is that by properly working out the body, you can achieve a significant increase in immunity. Accordingly, health and life extension. This is the Motive, and therefore strengthening the fingers in this case is justified, just as the free time spent on it is justified.

For example, many people achieve better health through the practice of qigong, some of the exercises of which can be found in the article on intuitiveness and the article on.

And in this case, such strong fingers will simply be a kind of side effect, and a person from the outside, seeing a person strengthening his fingers, will decide that he is training them for battle, because he does not know what the master is guided by, what his goal is, and even more so, the observer is not aware that work is going on to move energy, pump it up into the fingers and, accordingly, the energization of these same fingers.

That is, the observer will confuse the real reason and a side effect. The “reason” here is to strengthen the fingers for health. A “side effect” is the ability to use them in battle.

If the meaning of such “ steel fingers“still lies in preparing for a fight, for example, to develop a powerful grip, then even then it should be clearly understood that in the school of fighting that the master practices, for example, “Eagle Claws,” the entire system is built on the use of developed fingers, because wasting twenty years on training some special case that will never have to be used is simply stupid.

To summarize the above, we can say the following: in order to quickly master hand-to-hand combat, you need to answer a number of questions, so as not to waste time on “left-handed” practices.

By the way, this point, the need or uselessness of techniques, was taken into account by Medvedev when creating the system, breaking it down into components, while nevertheless maintaining the main psychophysical core. Thanks to this original approach, the fighter does not need to waste time on what is unnecessary for the task at hand, ultimately concentrating on what is necessary to study. So, for example, if he needs only knife techniques, then he will be taught only them, and not loaded with left-field skills, such as mandatory electives on the ability to wave a stick.

1. The main type of “motive” for strengthening the fingers.

Usually, the main motive for strengthening the fingers is their involvement in certain activities. Usually, these are understood as “shock combinations”. The blows included in such combinations are usually carried out on hard parts of the body, although everyone knows that this is very dangerous for the performer himself.

Finger strikes are primarily intended to make contact with soft tissues and easily vulnerable areas that do not require special hardening to hit, since they are too fragile a tool to hit hard surfaces like that.

For an ordinary, normal, average person, a well-placed blow to the area, such as a headbutt or a direct knockout with a fist, will be of much greater benefit, if only because the attackers themselves often begin to respect the owner of such blows and even make friends, because “You are a Man.” "! As opposed to using finger strikes, since “only women” fight that way.

It may be objected to me that you can learn to dose the force of finger strikes, to which I will answer: “Firstly, what kind of combat experience do you need to have in order to understand and grasp the force of influence that will lead to the desired result? After all, all this is gained through practice! In addition, the result of such an impact can be completely unexpected, because it often depends not only on the zone where they were targeting, but also on the part of this zone and the angle of entry into it. Well, secondly, how many people learn to control the degree of impact of even the most ordinary blows? They don’t need it at all!”

For some reason, it is believed that punching with fingers is the same as punching with a straight fist, which means they are carried out in the same manner! This kind of misunderstanding, as well as non-compliance with the laws of physics, leads to the fact that very often practitioners complain that they cannot put the strength of the body into poking with their fingers: they feel that the joints cannot stand it. In other words, the force they transmit through the joints is too great. That’s why questions like: “How to strengthen your fingers?” are asked.

2. Two percussion varieties of finger work.

Although there are only two styles of finger strikes: cutting and like jabbing, in fact, the technique of finger strikes is completely different and looks somewhat different: the same jabbing strikes should be performed slightly differently, in the manner of a kind of nod forward, and with pads fingers, not their tips. The palm itself with its fingers is assembled in the manner of a kind of flat bowl. In the video above, see how to perform a forward poke with your fingers CORRECTLY and so that ALL FINGERS ENTER THE TARGET AT THE SAME TIME.

And right away it should be said that putting core strength into finger punches, as many are accustomed to doing, will not work for the simple reason that the weak bones of the hands will not withstand, no matter how much you train them.

How many of you have carefully examined your hands? They say: “I know it like the back of my hand!” But in fact, we don’t know them at all: press your fingers together and look carefully - our middle fingers are naturally longer than our index fingers, ring fingers and others, which means that performing straight jabs in the manner in which everyone is used to doing , then the middle fingers will always enter the target first, because they are longer. And this also means that they will take on the load exclusively, and not others! And it will always be this way, only if you are not a kick-ass Shaolin fanatic!

I explain about Shaolin.

And now in Shaolin there are those who have been training the “72 arts” according to its canons for decades, and since even in the monastery itself many methods have now been lost, then accordingly, the training goes “letter by letter.” And what is the result?

And the result is the following. Somehow information flashed about some Shaolin abbot in the nth generation, who devoted his whole life to training the “Diamond Finger”, as a result of which a terrible thing happened: his folded fingers are now at the same level, i.e. the middle one no longer sticks out like it did normal people, but is on the same level as the index and ring fingers! And all because the method says that all fingers must reach the target at the same time! How is this possible when the lengths of the fingers are naturally different - the Shaolinians do not know. As a result, they took the crowbar route: with constant insistence they compare their fingers to one line!

Why don’t masters write about the nuances? Maybe someone will say that these are “Great, secret secrets,” but everything is much simpler: the nuances and “pitfalls” of the exercises are already, as it were, implied, and it won’t even occur to the master that beginners may simply not know this. Accordingly, these nuances are simply not mentioned in the treatises—hence the involuntary “secrets.”

In other words, modern “72 arts” are barbarism towards one’s body and the destruction of its health through constant oppression, when the practitioner’s brain becomes dull from pain.

Imagine being oppressed internal organs from such an effect on the BAP, which is located at the tip of the index finger! A Full time job on the “break” of the joints in the finger, the risk of fractures, headaches, curvatures in the bones of the finger and many other pathogenic aspects?

In ancient Shaolin, it was forbidden to begin harsh forms of training such as the “72 arts” before Qi, from its abundance in the body, began to ooze from the pores of the body.” In other words, all these “72 exercises” were not physical, but psychophysical, involving the work of the brain. After all, the meaning of preliminary qigong exercises is to energize the muscles, the ability to pump them up with energy so that they acquire a qualitatively different state and the body moves to another level of its functioning.

So, the main and real purpose of the fingers is, after all, to carry out grips, and not something else. The main thing is to develop the brain in such a way as to be able to understand that only idiots can train according to treatises “letter by letter”. From here, it’s one step to the ability to work outside the box. For example, if you grab the enemy’s hands and begin, without releasing them, to strike with your elbows (independent work with body parts), then the enemy will not find it hard.

As for finger punches, which are so popular, for example, in Wing Chun and in Bagua Chang they are also practiced, but in general, it is better to replace them with cutting ones: in the same way, the force that destroys joints is released in a different way, and not through them, the blows themselves can be carried out much stronger, and a person quickly understands that it is the pads of the fingers that should be in contact with the target.

3. Three important points that need to be taken into account when training your fingers.

1. The time frame for hardening and strengthening is extremely long - at least six months, and you shouldn’t leave it any longer.

2. When hardening your fingers, you must not lose their sensitivity, and for this you need to at least learn exercises for energetically activating your hands. In other words, you first need to increase the sensitivity of your palms and arms as a whole, and only then begin to harden them. This is done in order to monitor your sensitivity and control the degree of depression of your fingers. And if the sensitivity of the hands begins to decrease, then the level of exposure must be reduced, for example, by changing the schedule to a more gentle one.

3. At the same time, working on developing the sensitivity of the fingers, palms and arms in general, a person involuntarily begins to use energy, which means that through such practices, the risk of possible side effects, which are sure to happen, is reduced tenfold, since no one ever uses the correct methods for strengthening does not adhere.

4. Ways to strengthen the muscles of the fingers and forearms.

As a matter of fact, exercises to strengthen the fingers are simple and anyone can come up with enough of them on their own: for example, you can lift weights from a barbell using only your fingers. Another thing is that they are not done precisely because of their simplicity: people believe that such primitive exercises will not achieve anything and are always in search of some super sophisticated exercises, almost without seeing what is under their noses. This is a big mistake! It should be taken into account that people in ancient times did not have RAY SPORT exercise machines or a professional set of dumbbells with adjustable weights, but it was precisely these people who achieved what modern fighters consider “unscientific fiction”!

The most famous exercise: a weight on a rope - twist it, lower it. Of course, no one canceled the instructions on the fingers, but please note that they were short-term. Try to rise from the floor only by using your hands. Pull-ups and finger hangs are good, including with an object: we hold a stick in each hand and off we go.
Quite interesting finger training exercises can also be seen in old Jackie Chan films: flattening nuts, for example. Just don't get confused walnuts and Manchurian: the latter even give in to a hammer with great difficulty, flying away somewhere twenty to thirty meters from the blow. There are no nuts nearby, we try to break off the edge of the table or something else with our fingers. This task is quite feasible, especially when you consider that furniture is now mostly made not of wood, but of chipboard.

We do the simplest exercises for self-resistance - this way the muscles can be worked in all directions and, by the way, this will also be a useful load, because In this way, muscles that are practically not involved in our lives are worked out.

When strengthening your fingers for poking strikes, you should work to overcome granular media, but you just need to start with the most flexible filler and, by the way, here you should clarify the dimensions of the bag with the filler - after all, the density of the granular media depends on this! So the bag should have a diameter from the elbow to the tips of the fingers, and the height should be the length of an arm. As for the order of filling, it is as follows: first there is work to overcome ordinary millet, then rice, then beans. This list is quite enough, because... hardly anyone will go further. Hands are immersed to the elbow, the training ends when ash, burning, numbness occurs in the impact zone, and at intervals of once every three days. Start no earlier than an hour after sleep and no later than two hours before bedtime.

These exercises develop the muscles of the forearm and strengthen the fingers, but without any squeezing work, i.e. During the exercise, the brushes do not work for compression. In order for them to work “from A to Z,” you need the following simulator, which can be purchased at any office supply store and the name of this simulator is plasticine. You need to take enough of it to make a lump about fifteen centimeters in diameter. This ball develops muscles much more effectively than an expander: we take it and knead it every day for about half an hour every day for at least six months. It’s interesting that, among other things, the image of this ball will become so ingrained in your subconscious that you can easily create a feeling of heaviness in your hands just by imagining it, and this is pure energy and will take you to work with fighting techniques to a completely different level.

There is a sufficient number of exercises with plasticine so that a person does not get bored: kneading it, hardening various shock zones, by hitting it: throwing it in the air and striking it with a fist, so much so that the lump is flattened. It is very good in this case that the plasticine is crushed under impact, which means that it will fill the free zones of the same fist and, train its entire surface, including the zones between the knuckles, and also reduce harmful pressure, distributing the impact force across the entire area of the fist.

The articles are a short summary.

1. In this article, dedicated to the problem of developing and strengthening finger strikes, we considered whole line questions, starting with “Is this really necessary” and ending with training with an original simulator - inexpensive and allows you to perfectly strengthen your fingers along the entire length of the squeeze: plasticine.

2. For those who prefer to train with devices specially tailored for the “task” and are willing to shell out the appropriate amount, then in this case they can purchase two good developments: the “Bison” simulator and the “Bison 2: finger” simulator. Both hands develop simply brutally: in a couple of months you can easily bend a nail or two hundred. The first simulator strengthens the forearms, and the second one strengthens the fingers. The cost of such a set will cost about fifteen thousand rubles.

6. Video application. Strikes with palms and fingers.

A selection of simply gorgeous work with open palms. The actions themselves are literally one or two movements, however, he also left several scenes with longer series so that the viewer could feel how the fighter strives to break through the enemy’s defenses and carry out the final counterattack.

Watching the video, you can’t help but find yourself thinking that Jackie Chan used to demonstrate more powerful, rich and brilliant technique than in his more recent films. As for the not entirely natural sounds of a fight, such as blows to meat and wheezing of opponents, it doesn’t bother me very much)))

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First products - metal crafts were made in ancient times skilled craftsmen. Gradually artistic forging turned into a real work of art and, starting from the 11th century, became an integral part architectural structures Europe. Today metal products have high cost, but at the same time they can emphasize the exclusivity of the exterior or interior of the apartment or country house. We offer you several master classes that will help you make metal crafts with your own hands.

Metal owl

Materials:

paper;
pencil;
sheets of cardboard;
scissors;
sheet metal 1.5 mm thick;
Bulgarian;
chisel;
hammer;
welding machine;
chemical rust remover;
2 washers and 2 bolts for them;
rod 6-8 mm.

Let's start making metal crafts - an owl

1) Using a pencil on a sheet of paper, draw an owl.

2) Visually break the owl into individual elements and transfer them to life-size owls onto sheets of cardboard. Cut out the templates with scissors.

3) Now we apply the cardboard templates to the sheet metal, transfer them and carefully cut out each detail of the owl with a grinder.

4) In the part that is the eyes of the owl, we make holes for the bolts. We make them using a chisel and a hammer.

5) Now we make feathers on all the parts of the owl. To do this, take a chisel and make notches.

6) Paws are easy to make from a rod. We cut off the pieces needed for the paws from the rod and weld them together to form a paw. We do the second one in the same way.

7) From a piece sheet metal we make a beak.

9) Now you can connect the parts into one whole. To do this, carefully weld each of them to each other in the required sequence on the back side of the owl. Then we weld the beak and paws to the finished owl.

10) Now, using a chemical solvent, we clean the owl from rust. Follow the instructions on the solvent. If not suitable solvent, make a solution at home baking soda and water. It should be so thick that it spreads easily over the surface. Clean the owl with an old toothbrush, and then rinse thoroughly. It is recommended to do all work with solvents with gloves.

11) When the cleaning process is completed, cover the entire owl with a special varnish. It can be purchased at a special store.

Metal owl craft ready. It will become creative, made with love and skill, and will keep memories of the master forever.

Metal figurines look original in a flowerbed or in a garden. summer cottage, so with the help of our step by step instructions you can easily make a rat or some other animal out of metal.

Material:

Bulgarian;
drill with metal drill bit;
metal scissors;
electric welding;
grinding circle for grinder;
rods with a diameter of 4,6,10,12 and 14 mm;
2 mm metal sheet;
wire;
metal ball from the bearing 3 pieces.

1) Take two pieces metal pipe(this rat has a height of 50 centimeters). We make a head from one of them: we cut out identical segments along the entire diameter and get a blank, as in the photo. Then we weld and, using a grinder with a cleaning wheel, clean this part. We make the body and also clean it in a similar way. Consider the proportions: the head is larger than the body. We weld the head to the body.

2) Transfer sketches of the rat’s ears and paws onto a 2 mm sheet of metal and cut them out. We roll the paw blanks into a funnel. We scald them and clean the seams. Then we electric weld each leg to the body and clean the seams again. We weld the ears to the head and don’t forget to clean the seams too.

3) Now we make the rat’s paws and hands from twigs. For the upper legs, a 4 mm rod is welded to 10 mm, and for the lower 6 mm legs, it is welded to 12 mm. We insert it into the holes of the funnels and scald it with welding.

4) We make the tail from a 14 mm rod and weld it to the body.

5) Let's move on to the rat's face. First, let's make two holes in the head for the eyes. They should be smaller than the bearing balls. Now let's drown these balls in the holes and weld them neatly and thinly. We electric weld the remaining ball in place of the nose. Drill holes for the wire whiskers and insert it.

7) Then we make longitudinal welds close to each other throughout the rat. This will create an imitation of wool. Now we clean the whole craft again using a grinder with the required disk. This is necessary in order to rid the product of scale, slag and add shine.

8) At the end of the work, we apply a special varnish to the metal rat, it can be colorless, or it can have some effect. It's up to you. The rat in the photo is coated with colorless varnish with a satin effect.

Now all that’s left is to figure out where to put it or who to give such a wonderful gift to.

Rose- This is a unique flower, the beauty of which I would like to preserve for as long as possible. Metal rose will make you happy long years and decorate classic interior bedrooms.

Materials and tools:

yews;
sheet metal 0.5 mm;
metal scissors;
steel wire 6 mm;
grindstone;
pliers;
hammer;
Bulgarian;
metal paint;
welding machine.

Master class metal rose

1) During work, follow safety precautions, use gloves and a welding mask.

2) Using special scissors, cut out petals for a bud and a couple of leaves for a rose from sheet metal. We cut out the petals in the following sequence: from smallest to largest, starting from 15 mm and ending with 80 mm. You need to cut about thirty petals, then the bud will be dense and full.

3) Then smooth the edges of each petal using a sharpening stone.

4) From the remaining scraps of sheet metal, cut out triangles - they will become rose thorns. Their size should not be less than 10 mm.

5) We make a stem blank from steel wire. Our task is to get rid of its flat state. To do this, we can use a hammer to bend it a little so that it looks like a real rose stem.

6) Create a bud. The first two smallest petals need to be clamped in a yew and bent in half. Next, we begin to form eight petals in an arc relative to the center of the bud, but be sure to grab each part by welding and then clean it.

7) All subsequent petals are also formed in an arc, but bending the top of the petal. We do this procedure with a hammer. And just like the previous petals, we weld them and clean them again.

8) Now we weld the thorns to the already prepared stem. Then we clean them with a grinder.

9) Rose leaves. You need to squeeze and release the leaf in a yew to create a vein. Then we bend the edges using pliers. Now we weld the leaves to the stem and clean the seams.

10) We weld the rose bud to its stem, carefully clean it at the joints and cover the entire rose with metal paint.

A beautiful flower that combines the tenderness of beauty and the rigidity of metal is ready. An original and such a painstaking gift will delight the female eye for many years.

Metal crafts: Panel - fish

Panel- This decorative composition, which serves for beauty and comfort in the home. It can be a carved or ceramic composition, bas-relief or stucco. Panels of tiles are often found in the architecture of buildings. different color or using the mural technique. We offer to make crafts from metal: wall panels from metal frame with your own hands.

Materials

thick wire;
thin wire;
beads, a lot of beads;
a dozen beads;
paper;
a simple pencil;
scissors that can cut wire.

1) The very first thing you need to do is draw a sketch of the fish that will occupy a central place in the panel.

2) Based on the sketch, we begin to make a fish frame from thick wire. At the same time, we make curves, as in the photo. In paragraph 5 you will understand what they are for.

3) From the same wire we make jumpers that will increase the rigidity of the structure.

4) Thin wire is needed to fix the frame.

5) Now we begin to fill the fish with beads and beads. To do this we attach thin wire to the curves on the frame and begin to string beads onto it. So we braid all parts of the fish with beads, while securing the wire with the beads. To make the product look aesthetically pleasing, do this on the back side of the fish. The beads will help highlight the large scales of the fish, and one bead will be used to make the eye. The color of the future craft depends on the selected beads, so use your imagination and don’t be afraid.

The finished fish can be hung on the wall in the nursery or hallway. It will become not only an interior decoration, but also a pleasant gift for a fishing enthusiast. We recommend making several fish so that you can create a whole one on the wall.

Metal crafts parents can do it with the whole family, as they need to follow safety precautions when working with welding machine. If you do not have special skills in working with metal, you can make a craft from wire or a tin can, which will also look exclusive. This concludes our article about DIY metal crafts; see more crafts on the website.

Sometimes the opinion about the strength of the hands may be wrong - they do not give the impression of power. “The miracle of nature,” the world record holder in Olympic triathlon, Paul Anderson, had, for example, small hands, but what was their strength!

Strong people perform many amazing tricks that are perceived as fables, although they are the truth. We will return to this topic later. Now let us only remember the legendary Charles Van Sittart, who in the last century, thanks to his well-developed muscles, received the nickname “visual anatomical map.” He was 178 cm tall and weighed 88 kg. The circumference of his tense biceps was 45 cm - this was at a time when bodybuilding as such did not yet exist!

Van Sittart

Van Sittart bent horseshoes in his palms with such ease as if they were made of clay or wax. No bars or shackles could withstand his strength. He tore them apart like thin threads. He bent and broke metal coins with his fingers. This strongman's signature skill was tearing tennis balls in half; No one has ever performed a trick like this since. He could break 4 with one pressure of his fingers smoking pipes, placed one at a time between the fingers right hand. Van Sittart teased the audience watching his performances in this way: he placed a large bill under a special weight and promised that he would give it to the one who lifted this weight with his hands. To encourage him, he lifted it himself, holding it between the big one and index fingers.

The fantastic power of Van Sittart

But no one was able to receive the banknotes Van Sittart promised. With just his palms, he twisted centimeter-thick iron rods into the initials of the surname of any person in the audience. His record was tearing apart three decks of cards at the same time! In this test of strength, Van Sittart found no followers. Other strongmen had difficulty tearing one or no more than two decks. Just think, these tricks were performed by a man whom, at nineteen years old, no insurance company would risk insuring due to poor health. After several years of hard and exhausting work, he achieved phenomenal results.

Bill Pearl and Chuck Sipes

Famous for their strength, bodybuilders of the 50s, Bill Pearl and Chuck Sipes, amused the public during their demonstration performances by tearing metal car license plates. There are other examples of amazing development in grip strength. I personally know a man in Moscow who is passionate about developing hand strength, and who has an amazing collection of hand expanders and hand dynamometers. The strength of his handshake is amazing. Perhaps we can persuade him to appear on our pages and tell us his secrets. This is an example, and now we present several exercises to strengthen the muscles of the palm that do not require complex equipment.

Twisting onto a pole with weights

winding on a pole or a rope baton with a suspended weight (dumbbell, barbell disc, etc.).

Squeezing the expander

Squeezing the expander or a rubber ball. You can train with both hands at the same time. An amazing exercise like this is crumpling a newspaper. Place the open newspaper on the table and begin to crumple it so that it gradually turns into a dense lump, squeezed in your fist. For the first time, I think one newspaper will even be too much if you work diligently, without lifting your forearm from the table and holding your hand palm down.

Forearms on a bench

Forearms lie on the bench so that only the hands protrude beyond its edge. Hold the barbell in your hands with a “grip.” From this position, use your wrists to lower and raise the barbell.

Same, same as the previous exercise, but the barbell is held with an “overgrip” (overhand grip).

Weighted forearm curl

With a hammer or with a collapsible dumbbell weighed at one end, twist the forearm to the right and left, placed on a table or other fixed support.

Turns and rotations of the hand with weights

Twists and rotations of the hand with a weight in your hand down.

Wall push-ups

At a distance of about one meter lean your palms against the wall, and then, springing on your hands, push up from the wall. The partner pressing on the back creates a slight resistance.

Repeat the movements 6-8 times with light weights. Later, you can increase the weight and repeat the exercises in series (2-3 series).

Conclusion

Thanks to these exercises a short time You can significantly increase the strength of the muscles of the forearm and palms. We recommend you try it. If you don't immediately become Van Sittart, then in any case the strength of your hands will increase significantly. And this will come in handy more than once or twice in life.

IN modern conditions DIY brush making is usually done using bristles and animal hair. You can make such brushes with your own hands and get quality tool For painting work or painting. Depending on the area of use, brushes can be made round or flat. In addition, the pile can be shortened or elongated.

Making a brush with your own hands is not difficult

The most common and high-quality brushes are made from the tail hair of the following animals:

badger;
column;
proteins;
gerbils.

Considering the high cost of tools made from animal hair, which were listed above, in homemade brushes this material can be replaced with wool and hair of other animals. In particular, recently instruments made from mink, arctic fox and fox wool have become increasingly common. In addition, waste from fur factories can be used as material. Also, the pile can be made from the wool of camels, sheep or long-haired dogs, as well as from human hair.

Manufacturing technology

The first step in manufacturing is the preparation of bristles or animal hair. In addition, a stand for the hands and material for the handle must be prepared. However, the first thing to start with is choosing the material for the bristle tuft.

Material selection

When choosing a material, you need to focus on what work you plan to use the brush for. So, some materials are suitable for painting with watercolors or oils, while others are suitable for fine painting work. At the same time, there are areas of use that require the use of a certain material. For example, when painting with ink, most artists prefer to use products made from camel wool.

Trimming wool for future brush bristles

Let's look at the main characteristics of the most common homemade brushes, depending on the material used:

Gerbil brushes, as a rule, are made flat with a long or short hair surface. They are distinguished by soft and elastic hair. Therefore, such tools are mainly used for fine painting or drawing. oil paints or watercolor. In addition, brushes with gerbil bristles can be used to glaze the varnish coating.
Badger products have a round or flat shape. They are somewhat tougher than the previous version, and therefore they are mainly used for working with oil paints.
Brushes with kolinsky bristles can be flat or round. They have high elasticity and resilience. They are mainly used for fine work, as well as for wet glazing.
Squirrel tassels can only be round. They are exceptionally soft and elastic, so they are mainly used for painting on porcelain or paper.

Hair preparation

It is advisable to start harvesting in early autumn, when animals moult. Individual unsuitable hairs are removed from the collected bundle and trimmed. Next, the trimmed part is placed in a glass for leveling. The resulting hair tuft should be combed out using a comb with sharp teeth.

Carefully combed pile must be bandaged and degreased in clean gasoline. To do this, the bundle is stored in a closed jar for several days, after which it is boiled in a tanning solution to make the hairs non-hygroscopic.

Carefully combed pile is bandaged and degreased

The next stage is hardening, the conditions of which depend on the type of hair. Typically, the hair is kept at 150 degrees for about an hour. For hardening, the bundle is placed on metal mesh or hang it so that the hairs are well warmed up with air at the required temperature.

Knitting brushes

Pile that has been hardened is suitable for knitting brushes. To do this, take a certain number of hairs and drop them into a tin or plastic mold with conical bottom. This form must be prepared in advance. After you put it in the mold required amount hairs, you can make a blank for the brush by tapping on this form. Next, the bundle of hair is removed and tied, after which the non-working surface is covered with varnish. It is inserted into a metal capsule or clip.

The capsule can be made either from thin metal strips, connecting their edges with an overlap and soldering. In addition, this can also be made seamlessly, which is considered a more acceptable option.

It is recommended to make the capsule from brass or tinplate, as these materials are durable and resistant to corrosion. Its size will depend on the required brush number. Also, at this stage, do not forget about this important element, as a stand for brushes.

A brush stand is an equally important element.

Making a pen

After you have managed to make the pile, you should start making the handle. It is best carved from the following types of wood:

pine;
alder;
birch.

After turning, the handle is coated with colorless varnish or painted solid color. Next, the beam inserted into the capsule is filled with synthetic glue or other waterproof compound from the wide end. This must be done so that the glue reaches the end of the pile, which is located in the capsule.

After everything has dried, the capsule with a bunch of bristles should be connected to wooden handle. For strength, it is recommended to additionally crimp the capsule with a wooden handle. The finished handle should be varnished.

Selecting pile length

You need to choose the length of the bristles released from the capsule. The length of the released hair should depend on its elasticity. This is of fundamental importance, because if the bristles are too long, the brush will look disheveled. Otherwise, insufficiently released pile will not pick up a sufficient amount of paint.

After you have decided on the length, the finished brush must be moistened with water and combed until the bristles are as even as possible.

Conclusion

Thus, making a brush with your own hands is a completely affordable procedure. It consists of several stages, one of which is the selection of material. Hair and bristles are selected in this case taking into account the purpose of the brush and financial capabilities.

Weakened or overtrained forearms do not allow you to give your best in basic training. Therefore, their strength must be increased consciously and regularly. The stronger your hands, the higher the impact of any biceps and triceps exercises.

Remember, the growth of your arms is directly related to the strength of your hands.

It is wiser to work on your grip within 3-10 repetitions, and stretch isometric exercises for holding weight for no longer than 10-15 seconds. When you feel that your grip has strengthened and you start working with heavier weights, pay attention to the rest between workouts: the forearms, like any other muscle group, must fully recover.

Compression grip

The most common exercise to strengthen your grip is to squeeze something held in your palm. Imagine shaking hands with a guy walking with a girl you like: you just want to flatten the scoundrel’s palm. This is a compression grip. The strength of this grip determines how well you can hold dumbbells or a barbell throughout a heavy set. In addition, this grip is important for forearm development.

Exercise:

In any sports store you can buy a wrist expander - the simplest and most time-tested device for strengthening the “compressive” grip. Recently, a “modernized” hand expander - “Keptan ov Crash” - has been very popular. Another option is the Hammer Gripper, which allows you to train both arms at the same time. You sit on the machine, take both handles and squeeze them. The load can be increased by adding pancakes.

Finger grip

Holding an object (for example, a glass of water) in your fingers is a finger grip. Try, with your hand turned palm down, grab the neck of a half-liter beer bottle with your thumb and forefinger and hold the bottle parallel to the ground. Sounds simple, but how about doing it?

The thumb plays an important role, so it also needs to be developed. Weak thumbs weaken your grip and prevent your forearms from developing to their full potential.

Exercises:

The simplest and effective method development of a finger grip - take a 5-10 kilogram pancake with your fingers, tear it off the floor and hold it for a while.

Power grip

Can you, taking a pair of 45-kilogram dumbbells, walk 30-50 meters? If you trained your power grip, then yes, you can.

Exercises:

The classic exercise is called the farmer's walk. You can train your power grip at home. Everything is very simple: take a bucket, pour half of the sand (pebbles or nails) into it. Then you wrap the handle of the bucket with a rag, and clamp the two ends of this rag with pliers. You take the pliers (with one hand, of course) and lift the bucket off the ground. When your grip becomes stronger, increase the load - pour sand not to half, but to two-thirds, and so on. Another option is the “barbell hold.” You place the barbell in the racks at about knee height, then grab it by the middle of the bar with one hand, lift it and hold it as long as you can. Gradually increase the load.