So, we've gone through the first part. We got a little tools. The places where the instrument grows have been explored. We have prepared a workplace for ourselves. And in general - while we were doing all this - we had a good walk through the air and got to know better hot spots and surrounding areas. The first part involved quite a lot of movement and attentiveness when hiking - you had to SEARCH. What to look for - FSE! Everything is interesting and, to our still untrained eye, something that can be useful to us and unusual. Somewhat reminiscent of plushness. What is the result:
Tool. Which? First screwdrivers, then tweezers. These include a binocular magnifying glass, brushes, Petri dishes and needles. We got some oil. Yes, at least for sewing machines. Well there is no other. We believe that we have nothing more. NO. All. We make do with this primitive set. But without it, you shouldn’t start.
We collected carcasses of hours.
Different. Old ones. Wrist. We just collected mechanisms for spare parts.
They took indiscriminately, everything that was cheaper than the cost of half a pack of cheap cigarettes. This is their price. Half a pack of Belomor or Prima. Trolleybus fare. They shouldn't cost more. Regardless of the condition - intact or broken. There are only two criteria. The first one is mandatory - not rusty. The second is desirable - that they be assembled (all parts are in place) - regardless of integrity. Trash. Let's sort. What do we have?
Women's wrists.
- Star. Old ones. Barrel-shaped mechanism caliber 18 mm. Allegedly, in prehistoric times the French brought it to us and assembled the LIP plant. So these are all French.
- Zarya- Penza Watch Factory
-Gull- standard small mechanisms, quite old, but durable
- Glory- newer mechanisms
Many other names. All Soviet. THE USSR. Apparently the state cared about the working class - it produced watches. So that they are not late for work. Maybe.
Men's wrist watch.
- Victory. Moscow. Lighthouse. Many watches were produced under these names. We're not talking about watches. About mechanisms.
There are basically 2 types of mechanisms.
- “high” mechanism - for example 1MChZ - “Moscow”. Central seconds hand. Most watches were assembled at its base, including the famous “Sports”. They stopped when the crown was pulled out. Ersatz stopwatch. More old type mechanism. We don’t name the technical caliber - there’s no point. It is still impossible to order parts for the caliber.
- “low” mechanism - more modern. Side seconds hand.
In both the first and second cases, different factories produced a bunch of modifications of mechanisms - with improvements, simplifications, rationalizations. Suggestions. There were also a bunch of types of exterior decoration. Satisfied the discerning consumer.
In addition, there is a complete rainbow of other watch movements:
Slava - 2 types of mechanisms, self-winding and non-self-winding. It was indicated somewhere on the Internet that it was a prototype of LIP-T-15. The French again.
Complicated watch
With alarm clock
Chronometer
For the blind
Our task is to learn how to disassemble and assemble. Then everyone will go their own way. One will only disassemble. Another will collect 50% and then - as they get bored or peacefully throw it in the trash (usually habits - vodka-dancing will overpower), others - out of anger that it doesn’t work out - hit the anvil with a hammer. Still others will calmly take it apart again, put it aside for a couple of days and try again. This is a normal form of behavior for such an unusual hobby - precision mechanics.
Let's start with a simpler direction - men's wristwatches. They are larger than women's ones. You can see them better without a microscope. An example is “low” Victory. For us it is the simplest. “High” is more difficult for the first time. The clock circuit is basically identical for all single-platinum watches. Therefore, you just need to understand and remember a few simple circuits. For the first training, just sketch what we are analyzing.
Frame:
Back cover.
There are several types of back covers. The only difference is in the manner of closing.
Slamming. A distinctive feature is that usually, upon careful examination, you can find a flat into which the knife is driven in order to open it with strong pressure. In modern electronic consumer goods, a similar lid is very often practiced, but with grooves, as if for unscrewing - a good joke. If you don’t know, then at least shoot yourself - you won’t be able to unscrew it.
A flat in the glass ring. This is not a cover.
More modern solution- protrusion in the lid.
And the knife just drives in here
Screw, with a screw ring or with a thread on the lid itself.
Or so - edges are visible along the edge of the lid.
We unscrew the first option either with the largest tailor's scissors (they are tougher) or with the sharpened jaws of an old caliper. At flea markets, keys like this can often be found lying around in debris.
A branded key (purchased in the most ordinary store for modellers - models of steam locomotives, cars, etc. in Germany) looks like this.
A rather rare option in Soviet watches is a bayonet mount. It turns at a slight angle and opens.
Bayonet lock on the lid
So, the clock was opened. What we see is dirt.
A lot of dirt. We immediately say that we will not deal with rusty watches. There's no chance. Nothing can be done - everything must be changed. Install a new one or sharpen a new one. It's too early for us.
Main parts of the mechanism
I - balance.
II - Wheel system
III - mainspring (maybe two - in Slava)
IV - ratchet - there can also be several types.
What we do first - while the mechanism is in the case - lower the mainspring. If the head is preserved in the carcass and can be turned (it is worn down to the base), we try to turn it slightly towards the factory and look at the ratchet. It should turn slightly and slip a couple of teeth. This is what we need - we use a needle to support it in the retracted state and, without jerking, let the crown turn and release the spring, slightly releasing the crown between the fingers.
Immediately place at least 2 Petri dishes in front of you. Or white plates or dishes with a smooth, flat bottom. Diameter 15-20 cm. I use Petri dishes. They are easier to cover during breaks.
We take out the crown. To do this, you need to press the latch with a needle.
We take the mechanism out of the case. Sometimes this is done towards the back cover. In our case it is the other way around. The ring with glass is removed and the mechanism is pulled out to the side of the dial.
We remove the arrows
A minute in general is simple - even with a screwdriver
Hours and seconds are already a bit of an adventure. Tool - a piece was torn out of the relay (there was some kind of electric relay - there was material on it contact groups exactly what we need - hard and thin. We adjusted it - and we have the tool we need)
Unscrew the balance. The size (caliber) of the screwdriver must match the size of the screw.
The screw was unscrewed and how can this whole assembly be lifted? - and it usually has special grooves into which you can insert a screwdriver and separate the balance plate from the base.
We take the balance like this.
We gradually put everything into Petri dishes.
Unscrew the screws of the mainspring block. There is one trick in the watch - if the screw has many grooves, it means it has a left-hand thread.
Under the dial there is an assembly of hand wheels (I) and an assembly for winding and moving the crown from the winding position to the position for moving the hands (II) (scientifically called a remontoire). Let's sort it out.
We film a minute trib. This is the only unit in the watch where force is required. We pull quite hard. If we missed it, we'll repeat it. It always comes off with effort. The main thing is not to be afraid.
When disassembling the pointer shift assembly (repair), pay special attention to the spring.
It has a nasty property - it clicks and flies away in an unknown direction. There is a simple trick against this - we cover (press) it all lightly with just a finger and carefully “snap” it out from under the finger with a needle.
We put everything in a Petri dish
Now the longest and neatest part. Washing.
We take a shallow bowl. We pour gasoline there. And wash it. Brush and toothpicks. To shine. So that no dirt remains.
For small mechanisms - a squirrel brush. Harder. For large mechanisms - alarm clocks, pocket watches - you can try soft art brushes for oil paints.
Dry: first put it on a paper napkin after the gasoline. Usually I take heavy cardboard and place a piece on it paper towel. So that it does not jump and jump. Select napkins and towels according to the criterion - the less lint, the better.
Let the gasoline soak in. Let's just put it there. Then we take the parts with tweezers and blow air from a rubber bulb (enema) to blow gasoline out of the holes. And so, in sequence, all the elements of the clock that lie in a Petri dish or on an improvised “drying rack”. Knot by node. What we mean is this: if you unscrew the platinum and with it - 3 screws - put them together. We consider “this is our node.” So as not to confuse screws and parts. We put them in the same places in the Petri dish. Or better yet, into a clean cup. The old one will then be washed and wiped. This is if we don’t expect to collect it quickly. Or we collect it “from the sheet” - from a napkin. But this is subject to a certain experience, skill and speed of work. Balance. While we don’t have much experience, we don’t analyze it. So we push the platinum-spiral-balance block into a bath of gasoline and simply rinse it in gasoline for a long time. Clearly this is wrong. Everything needs to be taken apart, etc. - WE DO NOT HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE YET. We'll gut it for 5-10 hours, and then we'll look at the balance. How he understands it. Read books. And do it according to wise books (if it is described in detail there).
A note about the mainspring. We don't do anything. Just wipe the outside with a napkin. Clean the teeth with a brush. We're not doing anything else for now. We'll have fun with disassembly, lubrication, assembly and spring replacement next time. No experience yet. It's difficult.
And now more intellectual work - to assemble the resulting puzzle
Everything is done in the following order:
Mainspring
Wheel system. Let's have a little fun too. We placed the gears in the lower stones. They covered it with the platinum, and then we need to move the upper platinum in all directions with tweezers until the upper axes of the gears hit the stones. A little tedious, but doable. Sometimes you can try to help the process with a thin needle to move the gears that you can reach. The basic rule is NO VIOLENCE. Everything should be done without any effort. Everything by itself “clicks” into place over time and the plate noticeably “falls” down. A clock mechanism is a rather thin thing, the forces are very small, the loss of forces during operation is also very small, accordingly, it cannot be assembled on tight fits - THEY CANNOT BE BY DEFINITION. If the upper platinum does not sit in place, the gear is not seated in the stones. Or while we were moving all this, it jumped out of the lower stone. We repeat once again - THERE CANNOT BE EFFORT! A criterion for correct assembly may be the following: slightly turn the mainspring drum. ONLY SLIGHTLY - all gears should start to turn. This is all - almost effortlessly on the winding drum.
Putting the anchor plug in place
Let's put the balance in place.
Lubricate the stones from above - from the side of the back cover. To do this, we use homemade oil dosage.
We turn the mechanism over and lubricate all the stones on the dial side. Assembling the crown mechanism.
Spring. Another adventure. We press it all with a wide screwdriver. We thread the needle into place. Springs are probably the most disgusting thing in all this work. They're galloping. And we will suffer with them a) until we train our hands and b) until we collect carcasses of watches from which we will drag spare parts without a twinge of conscience.
They put it in place. We're not breathing. What if he jumps out?
Assembling the arrow wheels. We firmly press the minute tube onto the gear axis. How? Yes, whatever comes to hand is approximately suitable. That's how we filmed it and we'll put it on. We resist. You will have to press the trib hard until it clicks.
Lubricate. What is there to lubricate - if you have assembled this puzzle - figured it out - then you will also have to think about lubrication and lubricate it yourself. The basic rule is to lubricate only with oil dosage and to a minimum. All rubbing parts are lubricated. Platinum must be dry. That's why it's a recess in the stones - so that the oil doesn't spread beyond it. We do not lubricate the stones of the anchor fork. It's too early. A microscope is needed.
We set the dial.
We put the mechanism into the housing.
Press the crown lock and put it in place. Let's start it up. Let's enjoy it. DONE!!! YOURSELF!!!
Bogdan Yasinetsky
I recently told you... Now I would like to talk about wall ones.
Nowadays it is probably impossible to find a house that does not have watches made in China or India. Wall Clock- this is such an element home comfort, which practically does not change its appearance. The only thing that wears out in them is the mechanism.
And it often happens that after several years of operation, the appearance is in perfect condition, but the watch either stops working, or is in a hurry and lags behind, or, as is typical for smooth-running mechanisms, begins to literally “eat up” the batteries.
It would be a shame to throw away such a watch, especially if it had a high purchase price or is valuable as a memory. The most reasonable solution is to make repairs wall clock do it yourself and replace the mechanism.
In the example given, we will replace the mechanism by swapping it from another (new, but barbarically broken) watch.
By the way, at any time point you can buy such watches for literally pennies. The advantage is that if the diameter of the hands from the “original” watch does not fit, you can easily install the hands from the broken ones.
Unscrew the bolts of the fastening strip holding the glass.
Install metal loop for hanging if needed. The loop is installed on a special protrusion (“patch”) at the base of the rod. The protrusion is part of the mechanism body, so the load is on the entire body and not on the rod. 
The weight of the watch when using a metal loop should not exceed 10 kg.
For a plastic loop no more than 5 kg.
Install the sealing rubber washer. The sealing washer prevents the mechanism from rotating on the product. It also relieves excess “tension” when the nut is tightly tightened. 
Pass the mechanism stem through the hole in the dial. Something needs to be said about the thickness of the dial...
The diameter of the hole for the rod in the dial is 8 mm.
And when using a 9 mm shaped nut.
Install brass washer 
Tighten the nut. 
Do not tighten the nut too tightly. Overtightening the nut may damage the mechanism or affect the running accuracy.
Place the hour and minute hands on the minute counter.
To install the arrows, it is most convenient to use a tube of a suitable diameter. A simple ballpoint pen may be suitable for this. 
The hour and minute hands should be set to 12 o'clock. Otherwise, the time will not be displayed correctly.
Set the second hand.
When installing the second hand, you must hold the mechanism on the reverse side while pressing (shown in the photo). Thus, so as not to squeeze out the pin on which the second hand is mounted. 
Curly nut
The figured nut is used for two reasons:1. Some people find its appearance neater. Indeed, it looks more compact than a standard washer and nut.
2. A shaped nut allows you to “increase” the height of the threaded part by 1-2 mm. This becomes relevant when, for some reason, these millimeters are not enough. For example, there is no mechanism with a suitable thread height.
As can be seen in the figure, dial thickness when using a shaped nut (right), it may be larger than when using a regular nut when installed on a mechanism with the same thread height. The only limitation on the amount of “increase” is the position of the hour hand - it is necessary that the figured nut does not interfere with the rotation of the hand.
The diameter of the hole in the dial for a figured nut = 9 mm (1 mm more than for a regular nut), because she goes deeper into the dial.
The rod has two parts: Threaded part- for attaching the mechanism to the watch. A nut is screwed onto it.
Minute- to install an arrow on it.
Threaded part
There are different “heights” for different dial thickness.Below are options for mechanisms with different threaded parts. You can experiment and find the height you need. (here you can pick up the stock...)
Selection of stem for dial thickness:
Thread height: 6 mm
Distribution of space on the thread:
Sealing
washer: 1 mm
Washer and nut: 1 mm
Remaining space for dial: 3 mm
Available stocks:
Elements 1-10 of 14.
| View | Name | Minute type | Overall height (mm) | Thread height (mm) | Max. dial thickness (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 | S1 12/6 | S1 | 12 | 6 | 3 |
 | S1 16/9 | S1 | 16 | 9 | 7 |
 | S1 12/18 | S1 | 18 | 12 | 10 |
 | S1 Seiko 13/5.2 | S1 Seiko | 13 | 5.2 | 3.2 |
 | S1 Seiko 15/6.7 | S1 Seiko | 15 | 6.7 | 4.7 |
 | S1 Seiko 17/9 | S1 Seiko | 17 | 9 | 7 |
 | S2 15/6.7 | S2 | 15 | 6.7 | 4.7 |
 | S2 17/8.7 | S2 | 17 | 8.7 | 6.7 |
 | S2 22/11.7 | S2 | 22 | 11.7 | 10.7 |
 | S2 23/14.7 | S2 | 23 | 14.7 | 13.7 |
Our Community has collected excellent material about painting and decoupage of watches.
But we missed one point - installation of the clock mechanism.
Helpful information about clock mechanisms:
The watch movement case has the following dimensions: width: 56 mm, height: 56 mm, thickness: 16 mm, rod diameter: 8 mm (diameter of the hole for the rod in the dial).
The stem is the part of the mechanism that is threaded through the hole in the center of the dial. It consists of a threaded part, a seat for the hour hand, a seat for the minute hand and a hole for installing the second hand.
The threaded portion of the stem must be at least 2mm larger than the thickness of the dial. This is necessary in order to secure the mechanism (install the washer and tighten the nut).
For example: 16/9 rod means that the height of the threaded part = 9 mm. This means that the thickness of the dial should be no more than 7 mm so that the mechanism with such a rod can be fixed.
In the name of the watch movement, the first indicates the overall size of the stem, and the second indicates the size of the threaded part (12/6, 16/9, 18/12, etc.)
Clock mechanisms differ in the movement of the second hand:
The watch can be hung from the metal loop:
The size of the arrows is indicated from the center of the hole to the tip of the arrow:
It happens on the arrows protective film, which must be removed during installation:
Installing the clock mechanism and hands on the workpiece:
1. Install the fastening loop onto the mechanism
2. Insert the mechanism rod into the hole on the product. Place the washer and tighten the nut.
3. Place the arrows on the stem: first clockwise, then minute and second (it must be inserted into the hole). In order not to damage the hands when fitting them onto the stem, it is recommended to use a tube of the required diameter. If you don't have it at hand special tool, you can use a simple ballpoint pen.
To create cozy home, there are many details that need to be thought through. First of all, this applies to interior and decorative elements, such as curtains, lamps, clocks and pillows. Today we propose to consider how to make a watch with your own hands. Anyone can make them. The main task is to install a large working mechanism; it is usually bought in a specialized store. Having an old watch will greatly simplify the task, because you can use its mechanism. Everything else depends on your skill and imagination.
Wall clock using decoupage technique (MK)
You can make a clock for the kitchen with your own hands from scrap materials. But, if you want to create an original product, then the decoupage style will become ideal solution . These watches look elegant and will become a unique decoration for your home interior. We offer interesting master a class that will help you create your own wall clock at minimal cost.
You also need to prepare:
- clockwork hands;
- wooden base (round or square);
- napkins and ready-made patterns on paper;
- acrylic paints;
- tassels;
- sponges and varnish.
Making a watch with your own hands in decoupage style is carried out in a certain sequence:
1. The workpiece is being processed . The base of the future product must be sanded using sandpaper and cover three times with white acrylic paint, it will serve as soil.
2. When the paint has dried, retreat a couple of centimeters from the edge of the workpiece and outline the future framework .
We outline the frame 3. The base is given texture , choose a paint color that best suits the interior. The paint is diluted and applied with a sponge in a chaotic manner to age the product.
Apply a second coat of paint 4. The frame of the future watch stands out more dark color , brown paint is ideal for this.
Painting the frame 5. From prepared rice paper pattern is cut out and applied to the workpiece . If a napkin is used, then it is soaked in water and applied to the selected place on the dial. Glue is applied over the image.
Glue the image 6. Now you need to use your imagination and make sure that the drawing fits organically into the surface. Paints of appropriate tones and a sponge will help here. With their help a smooth transition is created from the pattern to the surface of the dial. It is important to be extremely careful; if you cope with this task, then you are a great master.
Making a smooth transition 7. At this stage the product needs to be aged , to do this, apply a two-component cracking agent to the surface with a dry brush (you can buy it at a store that sells craft supplies).
Apply a layer of craquelure 8. After the craquelure dries, cracks will appear on the product, which will give it elegance. The workpiece is varnished as a protective layer.
Varnish At the end, all that remains is to install the arrows, the mechanism and glue the numbers (the latter can be drawn according to the template). Now the clock has a completed look; it can be used as decor for the kitchen, bedroom, or living room.
The finished result On video: making wall clocks using decoupage technique
Cardboard clock (MK)
Some needlewomen make their own kitchen clocks from cardboard.. Such a decorative item can become not just useful, but also an exclusive item. Before answering the question of how to make a clock out of cardboard, you need to make sure you have the appropriate materials.
To work you will need:
- thick cardboard;
- multi-colored caps or buttons;
- operating mechanism and arrows;
- compass;
- PVA glue.
To make your own wall clock, follow these steps:
1. Using a compass, make a circle on cardboard and then cut it out.
Cut out a circle from cardboard 2. Using glue, caps or buttons are glued in appropriate places.
Glue the lids to the cardboard 3. Numbers are depicted on the caps (use a marker or acrylic paint, depending on the material from which the parts are made).
Drawing numbers 4. A hole is made in the center of the intended circle to install the mechanism and hands.
Making a hole 5. Last step— installation of a mechanism with arrows. A battery is also inserted to operate the clock.
As you can see, you can make a clock out of cardboard very quickly and you don’t need any special skills, but such a decoration will complement the interior of the chosen room.
Quilling style product(MK)
A good option would be to make a watch in the quilling style. This type of arts and crafts uses paper strips of different widths and lengths.. They are twisted into patterns and a composition is formed. You can make a similar clock according to this scheme:
- The basis for the watch will be thick cardboard or plywood. Black paper is glued to the body. To create contrast, decorative elements are mainly created from white or light-colored paper. When choosing a color, take into account the interior of the room where the clock will be installed. They should fit harmoniously.
This is what the finished product looks like - Numbers are made from prepared strips of paper. To do this, use short strips. At the same time, decorative elements are twisted. Various compositions are used for decoration. These could be flowers or just patterns. It is better to draw a sketch in advance, which will allow you to evaluate the appearance of the future product.
We twist paper strips into patterns and numbers 3. Created figures and decorative elements glued to selected places using PVA glue.
Glue the finished elements to the base 4. A hole is made in the center of the base and a mechanism with arrows is installed.
Installing the clock mechanism Ideas for creating wall clocks vary. Focus on the materials that you have available, but there may be a lot of them. Acceptable use additional elements, be it lace, satin ribbons, beads, rhinestones or even stickers. A kitchen wall clock made of paper or other materials will allow you to always know the time. A made decorative element with my own hands will be pleasing to the eye.
As an idea, you can try to make a wristwatch, but in this case everything is much more complicated. This is due to their small in size. The best option This will be an experiment with straps. Combining chains different thicknesses will allow you to create original watch on hand. Also, zippers, elastic bands, and beads can serve as a decorative strap.
Clock made of paper and CD (2 videos)
Options for homemade watches (35 photos)
