February 7, 2018
Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing works and styling floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Today we will figure out how to properly install the popular finishing material, which is called a block house. It differs from all other options in that the elements have a semicircular surface, which creates a volume effect and imitates log wall. In this review, I will talk about the three main mounting options, and we will also look at some of the nuances of the workflow that are important for anyone who sheathes walls on their own to know.

Installation options and their features

Before you begin installing the sheathing yourself, you should perform certain preparatory activities. We will talk about them first, and then we will move on to specific mounting options that can be used.

To ensure that the wall paneling has an attractive appearance and served for a long time, you need to follow a few simple recommendations:

• Choose quality products. All products are marked by grade, it is better to buy the first (A) and second (B). They have a more attractive appearance and a minimal number of blemishes on the surface. Below is a table that describes all the requirements for each variety, using it you can check the compliance of the option proposed to you with regulatory requirements;

When purchasing, pay attention to the storage conditions of the material. If the panels are stacked under a canopy or film, then their humidity will be much higher than stated. The block house must be stored in warehouses.

• The material must acclimatize. If you are attaching elements from the outside, then unpack the block house and let it lie under a canopy for 2-3 days. If you need to sheathe walls indoors, then the elements need to be brought inside, unpacked and left for 2-3 days. This operation allows you to balance the humidity and temperature of the wood and environment and reduces the likelihood of cracks appearing on the surface;
• To insulate walls under the cladding, it is better to use mineral wool. It fits much better than foam and allows the wood to breathe. As for thickness, it all depends on your region and the thermal insulation properties of the walls. Usually selected standard option by 50 mm;

• Wooden sheathing under a block house must be durable. The quality of the surface covering directly depends on the reliability of the base. Therefore, use a beam with a cross-section of 40x30 cm or more and check the reliability of its fastening to the wall.

Using finishing nails

This method is most often used inside the house; for exterior work it is better to choose one of the options described below. The instructions for covering walls are simple:

Illustration	Description
	Special finishing nails are required for installation.. They differ in that they have a reduced cap size and a special anti-corrosion coating. They can have a diameter from 1.2 to 2 mm and a length from 20 to 60 mm.
	The first mounting option is in a tenon at a right angle. As can be seen in the diagram, the nail is driven into the straight section of the tenon, and the fastening point is covered by the protrusion of the next panel. It's more easy way, which is much simpler and faster, this is what I recommend to beginners.
	The second option is in a groove at an angle of 45 degrees. In this case, the panels are fixed with nails, which are driven into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees.
	First, pieces of the required size are cut. Do not forget that you need to leave deformation gaps of 5-7 mm at the edges. It is best to cut the material with a jigsaw or a regular hand hacksaw.
	The sheathing is attached. The beam should be placed at a distance of no more than 60 cm. It is rigidly fixed to the wall, it is important to check the plane so that the elements fit snugly to the surface. If the walls are very crooked, then it is better to fasten the block through hangers; with their help, bringing out the plane will not be difficult.
	It is more convenient to start installation from the bottom. The first element is placed, aligned and attached to the bars using the method you choose. The nail is placed to the surface and carefully driven almost to the plane of the block house.
	Nails are achieved using a spacer. A suitable element is selected through which the fastener can be driven without damaging the surface. If you don’t have a special hammer, take a regular nail 120-150 mm long and cut off its tip.
	It is important to connect the elements well along the length. The easiest way is to knock the panels through the spacer until it stops, then you can fasten them.

Using self-tapping screws

Installation using self-tapping screws is similar to the option described above, but there are some differences that we will consider:

Illustration	Description
	For work, 3x25 mm self-tapping screws are used.. They have a small diameter, which is very important. To tighten it you will need a screwdriver with a 3 mm drill bit and a PZ1 bit. Fasteners may have different sizes, but this option has proven itself best.
	Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the grooves. This is done with a 3 mm drill; before installation, make sure that the fastener fits normally and is long enough for normal fixation; ideally, the self-tapping screw should protrude at least 15 mm.
	The element is placed in place and secured. It is better to call an assistant to hold the block house until it is securely fixed. Try to screw in the fastener so that the head does not protrude above the surface.

Using clamps

Kleimer is special fastener, with which the block house is attached. Installation of elements in this case looks like this:

Illustration	Description
	This is what a kleimer looks like. This is a special bracket that is nailed with two nails; they are always included in the kit. When choosing, you should take into account the thickness of the tenon on the block house; it is by this that the type of clamp is determined.
	Finishing is very simple: The panel is placed on the sheathing with the groove down; The clamp is put on from the bottom until it stops; Two nails are driven in. Such fasteners must be on each batten of the sheathing.
	This is the easiest way to design a block house in the corners. Join the elements evenly, and then close the joint with a wooden corner. There is no need to cut or join anything, everything is simple, the technology is suitable for both external and internal corners.
	This is how the surface for sockets and switches is prepared.. Since the texture of the material is such that flat areas no, you need to think through the arrangement of the elements in advance and cut out even planes. Two cuts are made on the sides, after which all excess is carefully removed with a chisel, and the surface is sanded.

Conclusion

Now you know three options for attaching a block house and can choose the most suitable one for the work. The video will explain the topic even better, and if you don’t understand something, ask in the comments.

February 7, 2018

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The instructions for finishing a block house with your own hands are reminiscent of the technology for installing planken or other finishing material. Before you decide to cover the walls of your house with a blockhouse, you need to familiarize yourself with existing species material and rules for its fastening.

Types of wooden material and its choice

The semicircular shape of the blockhouse imitates a natural wooden frame. For interior and exterior work, there is a specific type of material, which primarily differs in thickness.
The external cladding of the house is made with boards 40-45 mm thick. Firstly, except aesthetic functions The blockhouse provides the building with additional heat and sound insulation. Secondly, street cladding is more susceptible to harmful effects natural phenomena. The tree will be exposed to rain, sunshine, severe frosts. To withstand all the harsh conditions, a thicker board is needed.
For interior work a thinner blockhouse of 20-24 mm is used. It is mainly intended for interior decoration. Inside the house, extra thickness of finishing will only reduce the space in the rooms.
The blockhouse is made from different types of wood and is divided into several classes:

The walls inside the house are decorated with a class “A” or “Extra” blockhouse. The most common is class “A”, since sheathed walls acquire more natural look wooden log house. Monolithic cladding from the “Extra” class faintly resembles natural wood.
External installation must be done from a “B” or “C” class board. Here the choice depends on the owner’s finances and his preferences.

Difference in fastening

Depending on the installation location, the blockhouse has different fastening methods:

Manufacturing of sheathing

When installing a house block inside a house, there is no need to install a frame. An exception can only be for a building with uneven walls. But for finishing the walls outside, you can’t do without lathing. One of the main functions of the structure is to create a flat surface for attaching panels and additional laying of insulation.

useful in work

When covering the walls of a house with a wooden block house, they usually make vertical sheathing; if you want to arrange the panels of the block house vertically, you will need horizontal-vertical lathing, which will lead to higher prices.

In natural wooden log houses, the logs are positioned only horizontally. The panels will be fixed to the frame in the same way.
The frame can be made from different materials. First stage The work consists of marking the walls. Starting from the longest wall of the house, a fishing line is pulled level along it in the upper part. Using a plumb line, level and fix the fishing line along the wall on the lower part. Having aligned the line so that the wall is not blocked, they begin to mount the frame elements.

Wooden frame

This type of lathing is mainly installed to secure a wooden blockhouse on a log building. In the manufacture of a wooden frame, bars measuring 40x40 mm or planks measuring 20x50 mm are used. Just like the entire log house, they are treated with an antiseptic. The installation of the first element is done along a vertically stretched fishing line, the rest are placed horizontally at a distance of 400-600 mm from each other. If it is necessary to level the bars, wooden pads are placed under them. The structure is fixed to the wall of a wooden frame with self-tapping screws or nails.
If it is necessary to create a reinforced structure, additional beams are attached perpendicular to the main joists. The resulting counter-lattice method strengthens the frame, but also increases material consumption, which affects additional costs.

Metal carcass

Metal lathing is made from galvanized profile. To a greater extent, it is installed to decorate the outside of the building. As a finishing material for metal carcass install a metal house block and siding. According to the markings, spacers are attached to the wall (a metal strip that allows you to attach the profile from the wall at a distance of up to 120 mm, they are also called a crab, hanger or bracket) and bend them in the shape of the letter P along the cross section of the profile. The installation procedure for all elements is the same as in a wooden frame. Only the process of aligning elements by level and plane differs. No pads are placed under the profile. It is leveled and fixed to the spacers. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the profile.

For your information

Usage profile frame under siding or a metal blockhouse allows you to create a ventilated facade.

Distance between vertical elements can withstand 350-500 mm, this is due not only to the strength characteristics of the material, but to the size of the insulation boards. Depending on the thickness of the profile, it can be very flexible, in which case the structure must be reinforced with additional horizontal profiles.

Plastic frame

On modern market appeared the new kind material – plastic profile. Its load-bearing capacity is higher than that of its galvanized counterpart. It is easy to install: it is attached to the walls of a wooden frame with self-tapping screws. The main requirement is to install the profile only on a flat surface. If the walls of the house are uneven, then a plastic profile for making a frame will not be suitable.

Fastening the block house to the frame

Having made and secured the sheathing to the walls, it begins main process house cladding. When starting to install a block house with your own hands, you need to remember that, regardless of the material, it is laid only horizontally, from bottom to top.

Wooden panels

Installation wood panels the most complex and expensive. The following methods of fastening the board are mainly used:

• Fixing the board with a clamp ensures a strong connection of the board using the tongue-and-groove system. The clamp is a metal strip, one side of which is inserted into the groove of the panel, and the other side is screwed with a self-tapping screw to the sheathing joist. The gap between the boards caused by the clamps is sealed with a special paste that imitates the color of wood;
• The second method of fixation is performed with nails or self-tapping screws. They are carefully driven into the “tenon” of the board and nailed to the joist;
• A similar method of fastening into a “spike” nail boards or use a self-tapping screw to make it at an angle of 45°. This option is characterized by increased strength of material fixation but requires additional skills. Due to inexperience, you can break off the “thorn” and ruin the panel;
• The through fastening of the blockhouse is done with nails or self-tapping screws. A hole is drilled through the panel and fixed to the joist so that the head of the fastener sinks into the wood. It is convenient to make a “sink” for the cap using a countersink. You can make your own countersink from a drill sharpened at an angle of 90° or 120°. The hole is hidden from above with a wooden plug, which is then sanded;
• The outdated type of panels without a tongue-and-groove system is fixed through through holes or with a special adhesive indoors.

To hide the joints in the corners of the log house, grooves are cut out for the panel boards. A simpler option involves attaching decorative slats to the top with glue. A beautiful connection is obtained by sawing the edge of the board at an angle of 90°. Door finishing and window openings made with a variety of platbands.

Metal panels

A good option for wall decoration is metal siding in the form of panels made to resemble a blockhouse. The panels are usually installed outside to decorate the building. They are fixed on a frame made of metal profile stainless steel self-tapping screws through longitudinal holes. Insulation made of mineral wool or polystyrene foam is placed between the sheathing elements. A vapor barrier film is stretched over the top and only then the panels are installed. Finishing corners and hiding all joints is done with additional additional elements.

Advice from the “façade designer”

If you like the vertical direction of the cladding, then a metal house block will be the way out of the situation. It can be mounted not only horizontally, but also vertically.

Plastic siding

A type of plastic material for a blockhouse is made in the form of siding. A wide range of acrylic and vinyl panels makes it possible to arrange them when facing a house. Fix plastic siding in the same way as metal panels– with stainless steel self-tapping screws into special grooves that are located on the purchased panels.

Choose those panels in the manufacturing process of which special materials that do not support combustion were used.

At external cladding walls between the siding elements make a temperature gap of about 2 mm. It protects the material from splitting during thermal expansion. This is due to changes in weather conditions. The siding is loosely screwed to the sheathing, maintaining a gap of 1 mm. The presence of numerous gaps in the cladding negatively affects the insulation of the building. Using plastic sheathing under the siding will help avoid this.

The plastic profile will be deformed due to temperature changes along with the siding. Therefore, they can be rigidly fastened without maintaining any gaps. To hide the gaps between siding elements, additional elements are used. By following the instructions, you can easily make the lathing yourself, insulate the walls and install the block house yourself.

In order to finish the exterior of the facade or arrange the surfaces of the walls of the interior, a block house is often used. Before starting work, it is important to know how to properly attach a block house, as well as some of its features.

This material is a modified lining, and its front side has a cylindrical shape. This cladding has excellent characteristics, but how durable the coating will be will depend on the quality of the work performed.

Tools and materials

To carry out the work you need:

• dowels;
• scotch;
• nails;
• self-tapping screws;
• boards;
• block house;
• hammer;
• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• stapler

Surface preparation

Installation of canvases on the façade of a building must be done after hydro- and thermal insulation of the surface. The first layer should be a vapor barrier, it should be fixed with tape with an overlap, the width of the overlap should be 100-150 mm.

The next layer will be the sheathing; the installation step of its elements should be slightly less than the width of the insulation. Next, you can attach the heat insulation sheets using dowels.

The heat insulator must be covered with a wind- and moisture-proof film, which can be strengthened using a stapler, gluing the joints with tape, and it can be replaced with a special film.

On top of the previously installed bars, another layer of sheathing should be strengthened, which is intended for mounting the block house. In this case, you should use bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. The elements of the second sheathing should be fastened using self-tapping screws to the bars of the first.

In some cases, the installation of a thermal insulation layer is not carried out, then you can limit yourself to wind and moisture protection, on top of which the lathing is attached and the panels are installed. This option is especially relevant when installing indoors.

Main requirements for installation work

The block house is fastened using a tongue-and-groove system on the panels. At the first stage, the material has to be prepared. So, if the installation is supposed to be carried out indoors, then it must undergo adaptation inside the building within 24 hours. This is necessary to balance the moisture in the material.

It is preferable to treat the canvas with an antiseptic before the installation process.

Fastening should be carried out to a pre-installed sheathing, which is made of wooden blocks mounted at a certain distance. The main requirement for the installation process of a block house is that the panels are fastened with the tenons facing up. This is necessary in order to prevent the accumulation of moisture in the grooves during operation. The sheathing should be leveled using a level and plumb line, otherwise the entire work will have to be redone due to misalignment.

When attaching the panels from below and above, it is necessary to leave a technological gap, the width of which should be approximately 50 mm, which is necessary for natural ventilation. Moreover, a gap of 1-3 mm in width must be provided between the boards, which will avoid deformation during seasonal humidity and temperature fluctuations.

Before attaching the block, it is important to determine what fasteners to use; installation can be done using nails or self-tapping screws. The decision will be made depending on the board used. If the thickness of the canvas is no more than 21 mm, you can use nails, if large sizes It is preferable to use self-tapping screws. The main thing to consider when choosing fasteners is its length and coating. So, you should use fasteners that have an anti-corrosion coating, this can be galvanized or anodized material. This will prevent the occurrence of corrosion processes on the canvases during operation. But as for the length of the fastener, it should be 1.5 times the thickness of the material.

The block can be mounted vertically or horizontally, this will depend on interior solutions and personal preferences. As a rule, a block house is attached horizontally to the facade of a building, which makes it possible to obtain an imitation of a log house, but interior decoration is most often done by vertically arranging the panels. The fastening elements are also brackets, which are called clamps. This method installation is usually used in the process of interior finishing, when thin and narrow products are used.

You can start the fastening process either from the bottom or from the top. If the work involves using particularly thick sheets, the width of which exceeds 40 mm, then to fasten them you can use 2 screws for each board; one of the screws can be fastened at the tenon, the other at the groove. In this case, for self-tapping screws, holes must be drilled in advance, the diameter of which must exceed the head of the fastener; after the hole, it must be additionally closed using a plug.

Before fixing the house block mechanically the canvases should be connected to each other using a tongue-and-groove system. During the installation process, the house block will certainly have to be joined at the outer corners; to do this, you will have to cut it at an angle of 45°; as an alternative solution, you can use the outer corner; in its role, it is permissible to use slats.

Less labor intensive and more in a simple way corner design will be a method in which in the right place You should nail a block to which the block house panels will fit at an angle of 90°.

If the block house is to be mounted indoors, the conditions of which are characterized by high humidity, it will be necessary to ensure air flow from opposite side canvases

In order to extend the service life of the cladding and give its surface a deeper and richer color, the boards can be further processed. To do this, the surface should be primed and then covered with a wax-based varnish, which can be replaced with colorless paint. The surface will then need to be sanded and covered with 2 more layers of varnish. Periodically paintwork will need to be updated. Despite the fact that the installation of a block house is quite labor-intensive, you can install the panels yourself.

The construction industry will always be one of the most relevant, so new technologies are constantly being developed to quickly and efficiently achieve the assigned tasks. Modern equipment has multifaceted functionality, and the materials have features that allow them to be used in complex physical and weather conditions. True professionals in this type of activity try to keep up with the times and constantly monitor new products on the world market.

Advantages of a block house with a video example of installation of building materials

There is an opportunity to build Vacation home from specialized timber, but this will require a lot of financial resources and physical effort. An excellent alternative for implementing such an idea is, which is quite simple to install, and the visual appearance meets the desired requirements. This modern variety lining, which has a number of undeniable positive qualities. In the provided video of the block house installation, you can pay attention to its Main advantages:

• Made from natural breeds.
• With its use, it is possible to independently control the humidity level of the building.
• Economical cost compared to alternative materials for exterior decoration.
• Easy installation, completed in the shortest possible time.
• Durability.
• Mobility allows you to replace parts of the overall structure damaged by mechanical impact at any time.

A professional approach to the installation of a block house, as in the video posted on the page, will be the key to the successful completion of the task. Let's comment on the video of the block house installation for the article. This is a unique material that can be used as exterior and interior decoration, but it is surprising that the installation technology does not differ significantly.

Wooden sheathing, metal sheathing, methods for attaching a block house

What to look for when choosing a material

At the first stage, you should pay attention to the quality of the material. It is worth imagining its markings and distinctive features. As we have already mentioned in previous articles, manufacturers supply block houses to the market with 3 quality standards: A, B and C. They differ in the presence of knots, chips, cracks, wormholes, changes in color, bark residues and processing defects. The material with the least number of defects is marked with the Latin letter A. Two letters, for example, AB, mean the material of standard A contains 50% of the defects from standard B. The block houses of the listed varieties also differ in price. The best quality lining will have the highest cost.

As you can see in the video of the installation of a block house, in order to avoid future accumulation of moisture, you need to waterproof the surface. This is a mandatory moment to eliminate possible troubles: damage to the fastening of the sheathing, changes in the properties of the wall material, etc.

Next, install the sheathing, which will help ensure an even and neat finish. Often used for this wooden slats(bars) in increments of 30 to 60 centimeters.
The sheathing can also be made from galvanized profile, although it will be more expensive and more difficult to adjust. Before installing the sheathing, it is recommended to mark the wall of the house using a plumb line, level and string (you can use fishing line). Secure the initial plank with a stretched twine, and align all subsequent ones both vertically and horizontally, using the same materials.

finishing material block house
methods of fixing a block house

A few words about insulation

If you are planning to pre-insulate a building, then pay attention to the following points:

• For wooden house It is quite possible to limit yourself to sealing: seal the crowns, caulk, use wood sealant.
• The sheathing is installed on top of the vapor barrier.
• Insulation (ecowool, polystyrene foam, glass wool, basalt fiber, etc.) is placed between the slats and sheathing, so the thickness of the slats depends on the thickness of the insulation layer (calculated based on the heat loss of the building).
• Wind and moisture protection is attached to the insulation layer with a stapler.

How to attach a block house

There are several ways to secure a block house:

1. Using screws (self-tapping screws), the main material is attached to the sheathing. There may be several options: recess the head of the self-tapping screw into the groove of the block house, tighten the screw at an angle of 45 degrees, pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw with a drill and screw it until it stops, and then close the resulting recess with wooden plugs on glue.

2. Clamps can be used as alternative fastenings. They are inserted into the grooves of the lining and then fixed with self-tapping screws.

3. You can also use nails.

The fastening diagram is presented in the figures accompanying the article. Fasteners must be made of galvanized material to prevent corrosion and wood rotting. A horizontal block house is installed from the bottom up. In this case, it is worth providing a gap of several centimeters from the ground to the first plank for possible shrinkage. Each board is inserted into the groove with a tenon and then lightly tapped to ensure a tight fit. Next, the top board is attached to the sheathing and the steps begin all over again. The joints along the length are closed with appropriate wooden planks. The corners are decorated with special corners.

To emphasize the color, you can paint the material with varnish at the final stage, which will give the visual effect of using natural wood.

On the video of the installation of a block house posted in the article, you can see the entire work process live, which will make it possible to complete this task on our own. But it’s better, of course, to entrust this matter to an understanding professional who is not the first to encounter this type of finishing. country house. If you are confident in your abilities, then additional knowledge in this area will never be superfluous, but on the contrary will help you implement your plans with maximum speed and economy.

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Block house how to fix it

Block house - facing material, with which you can sheathe internal and external walls Houses. These boards have an impressive rounded profile that imitates a log. The radius of curvature may vary. Narrower and flatter panels are used for cladding interior spaces; for finishing facades, a wide house block is needed.

A traditional block house is made from high-quality wood. Recently, cheaper models made of vinyl and metal have appeared on the finishing materials market. They have the same name: “block house”, but in fact they are a type of vinyl and metal siding, which determines the technology of their installation.

Characteristics of a wooden block house

A wooden house block is a type of wooden lining and inherited from it all the design and installation features. As a result, on the back side of the panels there are two longitudinal gutters that serve as ventilation gaps.

Their presence is extremely important for cladding made of wood. Natural material– “breathable”, so it is necessary to ensure the ability to remove excess moisture. Vinyl and metal panels do not need this.

The relatively high price of a wooden block house is explained by the peculiarities of its production technology. Its stages:

• from each suitable for production cladding panels the logs are cut down into 4 outer parts;
• the resulting blanks are sent to chamber drying(10-12% moisture content of lumber is achieved);
• the workpieces are sent for machining, at the stage of which tenons and grooves are cut;
• ventilation gutters are cut out on the back side of the panels;
• form a rounded profile of the front side of the panel;
• perform planing and grinding.

Manufacturing scheme various types wooden block house

Dimensions of a wooden block house

The most popular dimensions of a wooden block house for exterior finishing walls:

• height (thickness) up to 6 mm;
• length from 140 cm to 4 m;
• width 142 mm.

U finished product Deviations from the dimensions originally stated by the manufacturer are permissible:

• up to 0.5 mm in width;
• up to 3 mm in length.

Not all panels are made in accordance with the accepted size standard. Much depends on the characteristics of the base material: logs. Therefore, the market offers block houses of different sizes: 27/140/2000 mm, 45/190/3000 mm, 36/190/1400 mm, etc.

It is important to know: the number of panels in 1 m3 depends on their size. The manufacturer has the right to vary the number of facing boards per cubic meter of finishing material so that the covering area remains unchanged. For example, in a 1 m 3 block of a house 3 m long there are 158 panels. And in a 1 m 3 block of a house with a length of 2.7 m there will be 175 facing boards. The area that they are able to cover, in both the first and second cases, remains the same.

When purchasing a wooden block house, you need to pay attention to the radius of the profile. The higher the ridge, the fewer panels will fit into 1 m3. Accordingly, the cost of finishing the facade will be higher than when using classic material.

The block house with dimensions of 36/193/6000 mm is considered the most advantageous for exterior finishing. A cubic meter of this material can cover 27.75 m2 of façade area.

Grade of wooden block house

Depending on the quality of the wood, there are three types of block house: A, B and C.

Wood defects
"Live" bitches	No more than 1 for every 1.5 m panel	No more than 4 with a diameter of up to 2 cm for every 1.5 m panels	Not limited
Resin pockets	No more than 2	No more than 2	Diameter no more than 6 cm
Non-through cracks	No more than 2	No more than 2	No more than 10% of the panel length
Through cracks	Unacceptable	Unacceptable	No more than 5% of the panel length

Some manufacturers offer “Extra” class block houses. This material does not have any flaws, but its cost is quite high. According to consumer reviews, grade B panels are the most profitable, since they have affordable price and a small number of minor defects.

The most a big problem wooden facing boards - “dead” knots. They tend to shrink and fall out. A through hole remains in this place, which not only spoils the appearance of the facade, but also causes heat leakage.

Resin pockets are no less a nuisance. Most often they are found in pine products. These pockets exude resin, which absorbs dust and significantly reduces the aesthetic appeal of the facade cladding.

Choosing the type of wood for a block house

Block houses are made from different types of wood. Most often you can find cladding panels made of pine, larch, spruce, cedar, linden and black alder.

From coniferous species the most inexpensive spruce and pine finishing boards. But they have significant drawback, consisting in the expiration of resin. However, spruce is not as resinous as pine. In addition, this wood (spruce) has a beautiful light texture.

Block house made of larch, which is also coniferous tree, has a higher price, as it has good strength and moisture resistance. Larch panels are distinguished by a wide range of shades from light golden to pale red.

The alder block house is notable not only for its spectacular wood texture, but also unique property This rock increases its strength with increasing humidity. As a result, alder boards differ for a long time operation. Moisture-resistant and durable panels are extremely beneficial for cladding facades in areas with high level air humidity.

A linden house block is known for its low thermal conductivity, so this material is often used for interior decoration of residential premises and baths. But it is also suitable for cladding facades. Linden is good for its absence resin pockets, light texture, smooth and not splintery.

The cedar house block is considered to be the elite of this group of finishing materials. Cedar is known for its unsurpassed resistance to cracking, has a beautiful texture, is not resinous, is strong and durable. A facade made of cedar cladding panels has all the possible advantages, but will require significant financial costs.

Prices for a wooden block house

Wooden block house

Wood block house installation technology

The walls of the house are not always smooth, so it will not be possible to directly attach the house block to them. First you need to build a sheathing that will ensure ease and quality of installation. To construct this frame, you can use both wooden and metal strips. But wood block The house is traditionally mounted on a wooden crate.

Selection of vapor barrier material

Depending on the type of material from which the walls are built, the following types of vapor barrier are used:

• perforated polyethylene films;
• polypropylene films;
• foil sheets;
• coating mastics;
• two- or three-layer membranes.

For brick and concrete walls You can use coating materials, but it is worth considering that most compositions of this type are made on the basis of bitumen, so when the wall is heated, the mastic can emit a weak but specific odor. If you have household members with a sensitive sense of smell, it is better to avoid this option for a vapor barrier device.

Inexpensive vapor barrier roll material– polyethylene and polypropylene films, which can be reinforced or unreinforced. For wooden walls optimal choice– “Izospan V”, characterized by good vapor barrier characteristics, but low strength. Therefore, when laying it you need to be extremely careful.

"Izospan B"

Roll materials are secured as follows:

• measure the height of the wall and cut the canvas to the appropriate length;
• alternately fasten the canvases to the wall, maintaining an overlap of 10-15 cm (use staples and a construction stapler);
• cover the joints with wide self-adhesive tape;
• the upper and lower edges of the film are fixed using thin metal or wooden profile(or use the same staples and stapler).

If there is no need to install thick-layer thermal insulation, great choice– foil vapor barrier. The most popular are Penofol, Armofol, and Alucraft. They are attached in the same way as roll films. The foil side should be facing towards interior spaces, this ensures that heat is reflected back into the house.

A modern and more expensive option is multilayer “breathable” membranes. The most popular products of the TechnoNIKOL company. For wooden walls the best choice- Optima brand.

Dorken Delta PLUS and Dorken Delta LUXX membranes have excellent characteristics.

The installation of these materials is similar to the installation of roll films, but it is important to consider the side of the canvas. Manufacturers of membranes mark the front. It should not be directed towards the load-bearing base (adjacent to it), but towards the street.

Prices for vapor barrier materials

Vapor barrier material

Stages of installation of a wooden block house

Step 1. Preparing the base.

Old finishing material is removed from the surface of the walls: plaster and old paint, which hold weakly. The platbands that line the door and window openings are removed. Clean the wall from dust and remnants of the old finish.

Step 2. Installation of vapor barrier.

If a membrane, film or foil material is selected, installation is carried out in accordance with the instructions above. If a coating vapor barrier is used, the mastic is applied with a brush or roller with a fur coat rather than a foam coat.

Step 3. Installation of the first tier of sheathing.

To construct the frame, use smooth, well-dried, antiseptic (coated with a layer of bioprotective composition) bars with a cross-section of 40x40 mm, 40x50 mm or 50x50 mm.

If there is a need to level the wall, the bars are attached to metal hangers, which are used when installing drywall. Suspensions are thin and narrow strips with perforations. Self-tapping screws are screwed through these holes.

In order to level the wall, you need a long bubble level. If possible, use a level or laser level. The main thing is to ensure that all the frame posts are located in the same plane. Sequence of work:

• draw up a drawing in which they indicate the dimensions of the wall and the distances between the sheathing strips;

• along the lines corresponding to the location of the frame posts, hangers are attached in increments of 40-45 cm (the upper and lower hangers should be at a distance of 12-15 cm from the corresponding edge of the wall);
• strong threads are pulled at the top and bottom of the wall, which will determine the plane of the future frame;
• bend the “legs” of the suspensions and install the block;

• fasten the block through the perforation of the “legs” with self-tapping screws;
• fix the lower and top part frame with horizontal bars of a similar section.

It is also possible to install sheathing with horizontally directed racks. In some cases, this option is the most convenient. The second-level planks should always be located vertically, so it is more convenient to attach them to horizontal rather than vertical supports of the first level of the sheathing. The block house installation technology allows for both options for constructing a frame.

Step 4. Laying insulation.

To insulate walls sheathed with a block house, you can use both rolled and sheet materials. Most in demand mineral wool and polystyrene foam. The insulation is placed in the openings between the first-level sheathing strips. Fasten with dowel nails.

Step 5. Installation of wind protection.

To protect walls from wind, special films and membranes are used. Tyvek, Izospan, Yutafol, Ondutis A100 or Ondutis A120 are recommended. Installation of windproof membranes is similar to installation of vapor barrier films.

Step 6. Installation of the second level of the wooden frame.

At this stage of work, the same materials are used as when installing the first tier of sheathing. But hangers are not needed here. Wooden blocks are attached in increments of 60-65 cm (if the first tier is mounted from horizontal slats) and directly to the posts of the first level of the sheathing (if its slats are vertical).

Step 7. Installation of the block house.

Both horizontal and vertical mounting of the block house is possible. But traditionally they use the first. If you have experience working with lining, installing a block house will not cause any difficulties. The finishing principle is the same.

1. A thread is pulled along the wall at the level of the lower edge of the first panel, which will serve as a guide when installing the first row of the house block.
2. At an angle of 30° in the direction from the front side of the panel, cut off that end of it that will border the adjacent panel to the right or left. This is necessary for a tight and even joining of the boards.
3. The first lower panel is unfolded with the tenon facing up, aligned along the thread and attached to the sheathing posts.

To clad the façade with a block house, you will need additional elements: decorative wooden planks, external and internal corners, platbands for decorating window and door openings.

The spectacular appearance of the facade will be ensured by two-color tinting of the boards. To do this, the block house is painted lighter, and decorative elements in more dark color. Experts recommend tinting (or varnishing) a house block twice: before installation and after it.

Video - Installation of a block house

Methods of fastening a wooden block house

The panels are fastened using self-tapping screws, staples or clamps. Self-tapping screws are more suitable for fixing a thick house block. If these fasteners are used, then they are screwed into the tenons. In this case, the board that will be installed on top will hide the self-tapping screw. This will prevent you from spoiling the appearance of the finish.

The second option for fixing the house block with self-tapping screws is as follows:

• holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the lower and upper parts of the panel;
• install the panel on the wall and secure it;
• While drilling holes, sawdust is collected, which is mixed with PVA glue and covered with the resulting slurry on the fastener heads and the recesses around them.

If staples are used, their “legs” should be 5-7 mm longer than the thickness of the tenon. To drive staples, you need a fairly powerful construction stapler.

Most convenient option installation - fastening with clamps. This is the name given to metal plates with holes for the entry of nails and screws. Fastening with clamps is traditionally used for interior decoration premises. For facades, this installation method is convenient if the panels are thin and narrow. Work order:

Installation of corners from a wooden block house

There are several options for arranging internal and external corners from a block house. The most obvious is to saw the ends of the boards at an angle of 45°. This method is inconvenient because it is not always possible to achieve tight joining of the panels. Cutting at a certain angle requires professional skill and special equipment. Therefore, the method of sawing off the ends is used infrequently.

Construction of an internal corner from a block house using a template

The external corners of the cladding of a block house cannot be drawn using templates. To decorate these corners, additional elements are used: wooden decorative corners. But it will not be possible to install them close to the block house, so there will inevitably be gaps, but this corresponds to the installation technology.

Video - How to make a neat internal corner from a block house

Video - Exterior decoration of a block house

Manufacturers of vinyl block houses managed to reproduce in this material not only the shape of a rounded log, but also the structure of the tree. A house lined with such siding looks like a real log house.

What is good about a vinyl block house? First of all, because, unlike natural wood, does not require such careful care. Vinyl does not require painting or varnishing. With it there will be no problems with the release of resin and harm from insects.

Of all the vinyl sidings sold on the Russian market, the most impressive is from Holzplast. But it costs no less than its natural analogue - a log. However, during operation it will not cause any trouble.

Manufacturer Holzplast has developed for the Holzblock product line special system fastening panels and additional elements. It is significantly different from the one used when installing a standard vinyl block house. Therefore, when purchasing Holzblock siding, you will need to study the instructions supplied by the manufacturer. All other types of vinyl block houses are attached to the facade according to the same rules.

Prices for vinyl block house

Vinyl block house

Vinyl block house installation technology

Installation of a vinyl block house is similar to installation of conventional siding. But there are some peculiarities that you need to know about correct installation panels.

The vinyl block house can be mounted in the direction from bottom to top or from top to bottom. Installation in the bottom-up direction is used if it is not possible to accurately determine whether horizontal trimming of the panels will be necessary. This cladding method is more convenient, so it is used more often.

When installing a wooden block house, connecting decorative strips are installed after covering the entire wall, and when laying a vinyl house, before installing the panels. Each sheet of vinyl block house is inserted onto the connecting strips at both ends, and only after that is attached to the frame.

For a vinyl block house, they build not wooden, but metal sheathing. Its installation is carried out according to the same rules that are used to build a frame for a wooden house block. Namely:

• all racks must be located in the same plane;
• hangers and self-tapping screws are used to install racks;
• in the lower and upper parts of the wall, the vertical frame strips are connected horizontally.

Preparing walls for cladding is carried out as follows:

• attach a vapor barrier membrane;
• install the frame;
• lay insulation;
• on top thermal insulation material and windproof film is laid on the frame posts;
• since the sheathing strips will be closed, they are duplicated wooden blocks, which are attached to each frame support along its entire length.

In this way, the ventilation gap required by the technology is obtained. After this, they begin installing the vinyl block house. This will require not only panels that imitate a log, but also a set of additional (finishing) elements, which includes:

• starting bar;
• finishing bar;
• connecting strip;
• J-chamfer;
• J-trim;
• outer corner;
• internal corner.

Procedure for finishing the facade with a vinyl block house

The panels are fastened with self-tapping screws so that they are not tightly pressed to the sheathing. This is necessary for the free movement of the house block, which will slightly increase in size when heated by the sun and shrink at low temperatures.

Caring for this type of facade finishing material is simple: in the summer, it is washed with water from a hose or wiped with a damp cloth.

Video - Alta Profile Blockhouse log siding: installation

Additional elements for vinyl siding: dimensions