Ecology of consumption. Estate: A small brick stove for a summer cottage can be made in a short time and with your own hands, without the help of a professional. We will talk about preparing the foundation, what materials are best to choose for laying a stove, and how to properly prepare brick and clay so that the stove will serve for a long time and heat your home well.
Very modest requirements are put forward for a do-it-yourself brick dacha stove. Long breaks between visits, a relatively small volume of the heated room, maximum efficiency and the use of local fuel - all these criteria indicate a choice in favor of wood stove. Contrary to popular belief, it can be done without the services of a master stove maker. Let's take a closer look at how to design and build a small brick oven for a summer cottage with your own hands.
Preparing for work
It is unlikely that you will be able to make a complex and highly efficient stone stove for a brick cottage with your own hands without construction experience. There are too many nuances and secrets hidden in the work of a professional stove maker. But small in size and simple in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer residence can easily be built even by an untrained person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, carefully and in accordance with our recommendations.
Selection of building materials
Since the described small brick stove for a summer house is heated with wood, it is not intended for intense and prolonged heating - it can be made of ordinary, not refractory brick. Although, it is better to use heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.
List and required amount materials:
- red ceramic solid brick - 700 pcs.;
- grate - 1 pc.;
- combustion door - 1 pc.;
- ash door - 1 pc.;
- soot removal channel doors - 2 pcs.;
- valve - 1 pc.
For a wood-burning stove for a summer cottage with your own hands, you need to choose a solid coreamic brick, which does not crumble from the average blow of a hammer, and at the same time produces not a ringing sound (this is a superheated brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side edges of the bricks be smooth.
For the solution you will need clay. Stove makers prefer to choose “fat”, from which the solution turns out to be soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a stove for a summer cottage with your own hands can be found in construction stores or, after consulting with local residents, just dig around.
Tool
WITH good tool A stove for a country house is built quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, plumb line, trowel, mason's hammer and dishes for preparing clay mortar. To cut bricks you need a grinder.
Preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer cottage
No matter how small a brick stove you make for your own summer cottage, its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, you cannot place it on the wooden floor of the room, but you will need a foundation.
To choose the right location for the foundation, you need to project the plan of the stove onto the ground so that its pipe fits between the floor beams and the roof joists. If there is a chimney in the wall of the house, then the stove for the country house should be located near it. When building a new house, a stove for a dacha can be built into the wall between the rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but there will never be smoke in one of the rooms, even under the most unfavorable conditions.
The depth of the foundation must exceed the freezing depth of the soil. However, if country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined foundation can be made for the stove for the dacha. To do this, four lightweight concrete columns, such as those used for fences, are dug vertically into the ground. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.
Between them, directly on the surface of the soil, half a brick is poured with a gravel or sand cushion. Then a layer of roofing felt or other sheet waterproofing is laid. The reinforcing material is placed on top metal grid, and on top of it a concrete foundation with reinforcement is poured. The top of the foundation must coincide with the floor level and be perfectly horizontal!
Let's start building the oven
You need to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the foundation, and a metal sheet on top of it. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, on the side of loading firewood it is better to make a larger outlet. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.
During operation, the garden stove heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest protection can be a sheet of asbestos, painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque. Asbestos cannot be kept open, as its dust is considered very dangerous to inhale. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself summer cottage stove can be insulated from wood with a solid slab mineral wool. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, since it has too low a temperature limit.
Preparing clay solution
The country stove is built on clay, not cement. The clay solution is prepared from good clay and clean river or sea sand. If the clay is not purchased, but was dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then it is worth checking its quality first. To do this, we make several test batches with different proportions clay and sand. Roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rolls, flat cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.
Dried products need to be tested: throw them from a height of human height, try to crush them with a board under the weight of a weight, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the figure shown, the best batch corresponds to samples “b”.
Preparing bricks and clay
The stove for the dacha is built with your own hands from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will come out, and the clay will adhere well to the brick in the masonry. You need to prepare very little clay so that approximately 20-25 pieces are enough for laying. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you won’t be able to put in more at one time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry should not exceed 5 mm.
Features of stove masonry
In order for a stove in the country, laid with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and horizontal surface. The laying sequence is visible in the order drawing.
The cast iron doors of the blower and combustion chamber are secured using steel wire, which is embedded in the masonry. The cuts are made with a grinder. As a last resort, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a mason's hammer, but in this case there may be a lot of waste for scrap. The area for the grate should be slightly more sizes the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.
The solution is applied to the wet brick. Experienced stove makers do this not with a trowel, but with their hands. Good solution spreads as easily as spreading soft butter on bread.
Important Note
If during laying the brick sank lower than necessary, it should be removed, the mortar cleaned and laid on a fresh one. Otherwise, the new stove at the dacha will smoke heavily and leak soot. Unlike cement mortar, bricks cannot be moved in clay mortar!
When building a stove for your dacha, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. The outside of the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. External seams should be carefully embroidered with a needle or finger. There should also be no gaps in the places where arches and horizontal partitions are formed. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one per day, so that the lower rows have time to set, and the upper rows do not creep.
Bottom line
Despite small size and simple design, for small brick houses country stoves They are very popular because they show very good results. They heat up quickly and are warm enough to last all day. A small brick stove for a summer house is different low cost and accessibility for self-made, but at permanent residence V winter time You will have to heat it twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. published
The construction of complex variants of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires enormous patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if you have the funds, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a stove with their own hands should study the advice of experts on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.
Performance accurate calculations and strict adherence to the masonry scheme will allow you to obtain a reliable heating unit and, with its further use, will provide protection from ignition and carbon monoxide poisoning. Consequently, any stove must meet basic requirements - not smoke, provide heat and guarantee fire safety. It is better for beginners to choose for construction simple model devices to independently carry out high-quality masonry of the stove.
Construction tools and equipment
For installation work are used:
- acute and rectangular sledgehammers;
- plumb line;
- brackets (mooring);
- combined trowel;
- hammer;
- tampers;
- putty knife;
- level, square and tape measure;
- meter (folding);
- seam joints, markings for openings, templates for channels;
- brick and clay (red);
- cement;
- sand;
- grate;
- doors, stove (cast iron) and valves;
- aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).
Procedure
1. First stage.
To ensure the accuracy of the calculations, first lay the masonry according to the finished scheme of the unit, but without using the mixture. The stove is mounted on a foundation that complies with all technical safety rules. To do this, dig a pit (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (layer 11 cm), and concrete is loaded on top. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, place a quadrangle of bricks, which will serve as the base for the furnace. Using a level, check the horizontalness of the masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, they are placed on the mixture and pressed down (lightly), and the excess is removed with a spatula and the further construction process continues according to the same principle.
Roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, attach the oven door, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard, with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, and a grate is placed above the ash pit. The laying of building material on the 4th tier occurs on edge. A chimney is built inside the stove. On the back surface of the device, the masonry is made without mixture so that its edges move slightly out of the main row, which will make it easier to clear debris from the hole for the passage of smoke.
The firebox door is wrapped with asbestos cord and secured to the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is placed flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are hewn, the grate is attached flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. The brick (at the 7th level) is laid flat, and on back wall A couple of ovens are attached to the edge. The eighth tier of masonry covers the fire door.
2. Second stage.
Next, work on the stove continues according to the finished pattern until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron slab is mounted on the mortar (with a slight offset back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners on top. The support for the trays is provided by strips of steel, inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and strengthened from the fourteenth row, through the next two, to the twentieth. This tier contains: a corner, a frame and an exhaust duct made of sheet iron. Before installation chimney the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.
3. Third stage.
After making a heating unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and Painting works. The stove surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewashing. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, on outside masonry, a liquid layer of the composition is applied, and after it dries, a denser layer is applied. Whiten the stove with lime mortar and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for coating masonry, as when heated they emit fumes that are harmful to health.
1. When building a stove with your own hands, you must use durable and properly fired bricks, with a smooth surface and without various damage, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, use a hammer to break one brick; if it breaks into large pieces, it means it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is lit, a fire-resistant type is used that can withstand high heat.
2. Reliability furnace design depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.
3. The thickness of the seams is from 3 to 5 mm.
4. Pre-prepared recesses in the bricks, intended for the installation of a grate, dampers and doors, provide the latter with longer operation. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.
5. The bricks on the masonry tiers are placed as close to each other as possible. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked with ready-made circuit devices, which allows you to control its exact compliance.
6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing an iron pre-furnace sheet or plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is recommended to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).
7. It is permissible to begin operation 14 days after completion of installation work. It is recommended to start hardening the unit by burning thin wood chips to prevent it from cracking. After finishing the combustion process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed using valves.
Cost of materials and labor
Self-construction of a furnace is much cheaper compared to the services of a qualified worker. The minimum price for a master’s work starts at 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually when concluding a contract. Payment for work and cost of masonry for different kinds stoves are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. Important role Types of cladding also play a role. Finishing with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).
Average cost of construction supplies:
The cost of bricks varies from 20 to 150 rubles per 1 piece. There is also a difference in prices when purchasing castings and other materials for masonry. If the firebox door Russian production costs 400 rubles, then imported - 4,000. One bag ready mixture for the construction of a stove (consumption for 35 bricks) - 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after a thorough study of the future design and taking all measurements.
During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The cost calculation also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of masonry materials, which is assigned by carriers.
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Very modest requirements are put forward for a do-it-yourself brick dacha stove. Long breaks between visits, a relatively small volume of the heated room, maximum efficiency and the use of local fuel - all these criteria indicate the choice in favor of a wood-burning stove. Contrary to popular belief, it can be done without the services of a master stove maker. Let's take a closer look at how to design and build a small brick oven for a summer cottage with your own hands.
Preparing for work
It is unlikely that you will be able to make a complex and highly efficient stone stove for a brick cottage with your own hands without construction experience. There are too many nuances and secrets hidden in the work of a professional stove maker. But small in size and simple in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer residence can easily be built even by an untrained person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, carefully and in accordance with our recommendations.
Selection of building materials
Since the described small brick stove for a summer house is heated with wood, it is not intended for intense and prolonged heating - it can be made of ordinary, not refractory brick. Although, it is better to use heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.
List and required quantity of materials:
- red ceramic solid brick - 700 pcs.;
- grate - 1 pc.;
- combustion door - 1 pc.;
- ash door - 1 pc.;
- soot removal channel doors - 2 pcs.;
- valve - 1 pc.
For a stove for a wood-burning cottage with your own hands, you need to choose a solid ceramic brick, which do not crumble from the average blow of a hammer, and at the same time produce not a ringing sound (this is a superheated brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side edges of the bricks be smooth.
For the solution you will need clay. Stove makers prefer to choose “fat”, from which the solution turns out to be soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a stove for a summer cottage with your own hands can be found in construction stores or, after consulting with local residents, simply dug up in the area.
Tool
With good tools, a stove for a country house can be built quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, plumb line, trowel, mason's hammer and dishes for preparing clay mortar. To cut bricks you need a grinder.
Preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer cottage
No matter how small a brick stove you make for your own summer cottage, its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, you cannot place it on the wooden floor of the room, but you will need a foundation.
To choose the right location for the foundation, you need to project the plan of the stove onto the ground so that its pipe fits between the floor beams and the roof joists. If there is a chimney in the wall of the house, then the stove for the country house should be located near it. When building a new house, a stove for a dacha can be built into the wall between the rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but there will never be smoke in one of the rooms, even under the most unfavorable conditions.
The depth of the foundation must exceed the freezing depth of the soil. However, if the country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined foundation can be made for the country house stove. To do this, four lightweight concrete columns, such as those used for fences, are dug vertically into the ground. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.
Between them, directly on the surface of the soil, half a brick is poured with a gravel or sand cushion. Then a layer of roofing felt or other sheet waterproofing is laid. A reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top, and a concrete foundation with reinforcement is poured on top of it. The top of the foundation must coincide with the floor level and be perfectly horizontal!
Let's start building the oven
You need to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the foundation, and a metal sheet on top of it. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, on the side of loading firewood it is better to make a larger outlet. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.
During operation, the garden stove heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest protection can be a sheet of asbestos, painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque. Asbestos cannot be kept open, as its dust is considered very dangerous to inhale. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself summer cottage stove can be insulated from wood with a slab of solid mineral wool. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, since it has too low a temperature limit.
Preparing clay solution
The country stove is built on clay, not cement. The clay solution is prepared from good clay and clean river or sea sand. If the clay is not purchased, but was dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then it is worth checking its quality first. To do this, we make several test batches with different proportions of clay and sand. Roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rolls, flat cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.
Dried products need to be tested: throw them from a height of human height, try to crush them with a board under the weight of a weight, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the figure shown, the best batch corresponds to samples “b”.
Preparing bricks and clay
The stove for the dacha is built with your own hands from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will come out, and the clay will adhere well to the brick in the masonry. You need to prepare very little clay so that approximately 20-25 pieces are enough for laying. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you won’t be able to put in more at one time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry should not exceed 5 mm.
Features of stove masonry
In order for a stove in the country, laid with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and horizontal surface. The laying sequence is visible in the order drawing.
The cast iron doors of the blower and combustion chamber are secured using steel wire, which is embedded in the masonry. The cuts are made with a grinder. As a last resort, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a mason's hammer, but in this case there may be a lot of waste for scrap. The area for the grate should be slightly larger than the size of the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.
The solution is applied to the wet brick. Experienced stove makers do this not with a trowel, but with their hands. A good solution spreads as easily as soft butter spreads on bread.
Important Note
If during laying the brick sank lower than necessary, it should be removed, the mortar cleaned and laid on a fresh one. Otherwise, the new stove at the dacha will smoke heavily and leak soot. Unlike cement mortar, bricks cannot be moved in clay mortar!
When building a stove for your dacha, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. The outside of the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. External seams should be carefully embroidered with a needle or finger. There should also be no gaps in the places where arches and horizontal partitions are formed. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one per day, so that the lower rows have time to set, and the upper rows do not creep.
Bottom line
Despite their small size and simple design, brick country stoves are very popular for small houses, as they show very good results. They heat up quickly and are warm enough to last all day. A small brick stove for a dacha is low cost and easy to make yourself, but if you live permanently in the winter, you will have to heat it twice a day - in the morning and in the evening.
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The oven is rude and the source of a fair amount of confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not an established term. In Western and, partly, in South Slavic languages, rude is either simply a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for summer kitchen for 150-200 bricks. Well, according to A search on the RuNet brings up Dutch, Swedish, bath (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. You can even find statements that say that somewhere there was once an outstanding designer of stoves, Grub.
In fact, a stove with a rough, or simply rough, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, separate from the stove according to the heat cycle, but combined technologically, i.e. they are built together (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there cannot be a bell housing - heating shields for stoves are always ducted. It’s easier to build rough with your own hands channel furnace equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rough houses are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excess fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not impact the budget.
Note: a heating and cooking unit made of brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob – 1200-1350, – 1800-2000, – 2500-3500 bricks.
Varieties
A do-it-yourself stove can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the stove, and then in appearance it is indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in Fig. The slab grinder is compact, least material-intensive, lightest, and requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but her thermal power limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great strain. Therefore, rough slabs are installed mostly in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if its load-bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf/sq. m.
A rough structure with an attached shield (item 2) is structurally more complex and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. A wood-burning grub with an attached shield can develop up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. The diagram of the flow of flue gases in the hood with a shield is given in pos. 3; This is how the popular Galanka stove was built. However, you need to know that there is no point in building a furnace with more than 3 revolutions: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during construction it will be necessary to pay special attention to some of the features of rough stoves, the consideration of which is devoted to a significant part of the article.
Note: wood burning can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is not advisable to heat such a stove with coal; the stove will overheat.
Why is it rude - rude
Visually, a rough stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later added shield due to the integrity of the structure (item 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complex and requires quite deep knowledge of heating engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires a solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a grub because its combustion (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately and then “molded” together according to the pairing rules building structures taking into account the requirements of heating engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because the interaction of the thermal cycles of the fire part and the shield is not taken into account, and it is by taking it into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, If you live in an area with a harsh climate, a rude stove may only make sense for you as a seasonal stove for temporary use.
Firebox, shield and chimney
The main differences from a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the firebox. The tooth traps hot gases under hob, which in a summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In the rough it is not needed, because excess heat will be used for heating.
A rough stove should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with increased draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool. Their thermal energy will turn into a mechanical one, which will successfully fly out into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield operates on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This explains the special requirements for the firebox and stove fittings, see below.
Shields
Depending on the purpose of the rough heating panels, they are made different types. Diagrams of heating panels for furnaces are shown in Fig. below; The fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.
- Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is greatest. The compactness and thermal efficiency of the stove are average. The most commonly used scheme;
- Sequential stroke with horizontal channels. The dimensions and weight of the oven are the same as before. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to install a bed, i.e. the upper channel does not heat up much;
- Sequential stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is the same as that of a shield with horizontal channels, the technological complexity is the same as that of a shield with short vertical channels. Occupies smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and good foundation(see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a home heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
- Parallel move. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Can be used with a reduced power firebox. Optimal for adding to an existing slab without altering it.
Note: There are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chessboard. The most complex, but also the lightest, have the least resistance to the flow of gases. Only possible variant for rough in a house with a heated attic, see below.
Special requirements
We repeat: the advantages are simple - compactness and the ability to build in an existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in a furnace structure of generally the same dimensions; from excessive heat load it will quickly become unusable. If special requirements are not met:
- Furnace foundation.
- Masonry mortars.
- Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
- The choice and methods of installing stove fittings.
Foundation
The design of the foundation for the rough is shown in Fig. The crushed stone cushion without sand bedding is leveled to the horizon before pouring. Pouring mortar M150 – cement M300 and sand 1:2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Don't forget to support the cut joists! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but serious mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in plan should protrude onto the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.
Note: the brick bed on the foundation under the furnace is laid out with bandaging in the rows and between the rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry for the furnace structure, see below.
Solutions
To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on lime mortar as combining sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble needs to be laid only on completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. It is highly advisable to use mountain or ravine sand with rough grains for clay mortar. Ordinary clay - purchased from the oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is of little use for coarse masonry.
Masonry
For rough masonry, stove bricks and, if the order (see below) is provided for, fireclay bricks are used; red worker is of the highest quality - light red in color (fully annealed), without burn marks, distortion and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly carried out following the trail. rules:
- If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in cutting/chipping bricks are eliminated.
- Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. You can’t dump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
- A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the base of the brick being laid.
- The brick being laid is laid with a smooth movement, slightly tilted, and moved towards the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
- The brick is pressed until the seam comes together to 3 mm; You can't knock!
- Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
- The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
- Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
- The recesses in the seams found after removing excess mortar are filled with mortar by pressing without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!
Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:
Video: laying a heating and cooking stove
Accessories
Fittings and grates for roughing require cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with eyes for straight lugs (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in Fig. on the right, in the rough it is impossible; This is not according to stove rules at all. For a Dutch country house with 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, it may be fine, but not for a rough one.
It is necessary, firstly, to crimp the mustache (galvanized wire 2-3 mm) with a twist so that it does not move. Press lightly at first, place it at the desired angle (from the far end of the mustache to inside masonry must remain at least 12 mm). Then tighten carefully and shake the door/latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories into the oven.
Video: installing the oven door
Video: grates and stove
Design examples
The figure below shows the order of a simple rough wood for a seasonal dacha or temporarily inhabited house. A special feature is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without in rough wood, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and, if it is already warm enough outside, it prevents the stove from overheating the room while cooking.
On the trail. rice. – the arrangement of a single-burner hob is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This is an option for hunting lodge or a dacha where they spend weekends in winter.
Next in Fig. – arrangement of the house heating and cooking system with switching to winter and summer operation (two-way). This stove is quite complex, but quite economical both in winter and summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.
On the trail. rice. – order and drawings of a heating stove (firebox door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rug is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment, the front faces the living room and the rear opens into 2 rooms adjacent to it; the partition between them is located on the back side (back) of the stove. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.
Now - in Fig. Below is a rough diagram and order of the stove bench: a cooking area in the kitchen/hallway with a bathroom; bed - in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove maker. For heating in warm weather, the bed is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen/hallway will have to be kept wide open, because... switching to summer speed is not provided.
And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional panel with staggered channels is located (in the inset below on the right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if the firebox door is made of glass. It is 2-way; ZLH in the drawings is a summer valve.
About chimneys
The chimney for rough must meet all the rules fire safety. Here it is only necessary to note that best chimney for coarse - sandwich, because it also does not require additional capital construction work.
Finally
If this is your first oven (which is quite possible), do not rush to build, model it on the table first. Suddenly you have a little extra money - you can buy a set for modeling stoves with layout diagrams and plastic bricks to scale, they sell these. No – bricks can also be cut to scale from foam plastic. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.
The layout of a brick heating stove depends on what you want to get in the end. This could be heating, or it could just be cooking food.
After all, the functionality may be different. Today we will look at heating brick stoves, drawings and rules for performing the work.
You will also learn about the types of this design and their purpose. Also in the video in this article, look at the manufacturing and application options for each type.
Correct choice of masonry scheme
Heating brick stoves: drawings will need to be made before work begins. After all, depending on the type, you will need different quantities bricks and finishing material. Any of the proposed types can be made with your own hands, and in this case the price of the product will be significantly lower.
Types of furnaces
Heating stoves made of bricks: schemes are divided depending on the application.
Depending on the design, furnaces can be divided into the following types:
| Heating stove | Its main purpose is to heat a room.
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| Cooking oven | Its purpose is to prepare food. It is simply not effective for heating.
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| Heating and cooking stove | It has all the advantages and disadvantages of the two previous types.
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So:
- A stove for a home must have a number of mandatory characteristics: heat the room, be safe for others, and create comfortable living conditions.
- Not everyone can build a stove with their own hands that would have similar characteristics. The slightest mistake in calculations can be costly, just like poor quality work. As a rule, craftsmen are invited for this.
- Nowadays, the task is somewhat simplified by the presence huge amount information about laying stoves on the Internet. Here you can familiarize yourself in detail with the technique of laying a furnace by watching the corresponding video.
Heating stove diagrams
Before choosing, you should familiarize yourself with the design options for each design.
You immediately need to think about the installation system. After all, each design has its own requirements. Heavy ones will require a large foundation. For cooktops, you can get by with a small stovetop.
Preparatory work
First you need to decide on the location of the future furnace. The first time a stove is erected is when housing is being built, which means that the shape and dimensions of the stove have already been determined, as well as its location.
So:
- The location of the stove largely depends on the layout of the entire building, and its location should be such that it effectively heats the entire living space.
- If the location is determined, you can begin building the foundation. Its dimensions should be slightly larger geometric dimensions ovens. During its construction it is necessary to install waterproofing.
- When carrying out masonry, you should remember that the seams should be minimal and the evenness should be maximum.
- When laying out the internal surfaces of chimneys, there should be no sagging of mortar, and the surfaces should be smooth. It is advisable to remove excess mortar released from the seams. Both the side surfaces and the corners must be laid out carefully.
Attention: The foundation must support the weight of the structure. Therefore, it will need to be reinforced. This will add additional rigidity.
You will need a tool
To carry out such work you will need the following tool:
- Trowel (trowel).
- Putty knife.
- Building level.
- Plumb.
- Lacing.
- Container for solution.
- Shovel or drill.
- Soft wire.
- Roulette.
Methods and order of masonry
Making masonry
Furnace laying can be done different ways. This can be masonry with empty seams or undercut masonry.
Attention: These methods differ radically. When laying undercuts, the seams are completely filled, and such a stove is not plastered. The thickness of the furnace walls can be brick or half-brick.
For laying stoves, only red solid bricks should be used. In this case, you cannot use used bricks, slotted bricks or other Construction Materials, not intended for this purpose.
The masonry technology consists of several stages:
- We cover the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. It could be a simple roofing material. We make the basement part. Its height is determined individually. Just don't make it too high. It is made with continuous masonry without voids.
- The first row can be laid with bricks, without using mortar. After this, the bricks are leveled and the location of the front wall and the location of all the doors are determined. After this, masonry continues, but using mortar. As a rule, a solution of ordinary clay is used for laying stoves.
- Then you can install vertical beacons using plumbs and ropes or fishing line.
- Elements of the furnace, such as a blower, an ash pan or a combustion chamber, are located depending on the design of the furnace. As a rule, the ash pit is located after the third row of masonry, and one row after it is the ash pan.
- Then the firebox is laid out. The firebox door and blower are secured using soft wire.
- Next in line is the stove vault, which is formed after the second row of bricks laid above the firebox.
- The combustion chamber is lined with refractory bricks. To increase the efficiency of the furnace, it must be equipped with various valves that regulate the flow of heated gases.
Technological order of masonry
The order of laying out the oven is as follows:
- The first row is laid out without mortar and leveled using a building level.
- Bricks are laid out at the corners using mortar and strictly horizontally. After this, the space is filled with bricks using mortar. This will be the first row.
- After laying out the first row, check the evenness of the sides of the oven using a tape measure. If there is a discrepancy, then they are corrected with the help of a mallet, knocking out one or another corner brick.
- After this, you can begin laying out the second row. The laying begins from the corners and continues along the entire perimeter. After the perimeter is laid, the middle of the second row is laid.
- Then, at the corners, between the first and second rows, nails 80 mm long are driven in and using a plumb line, the corner is projected onto the ceiling.
A nail is driven in at the corner projection site and a rope is pulled from below to the ceiling. This operation is performed with all angles.
- The stretched cords will serve as a guide for further work. Subsequent rows, relative to the vertical, will be controlled by stretched cords that define the contour of the future furnace.
- All subsequent rows are laid out in the same way, controlling horizontality using a building level. During laying, you need to make sure that there is no excess mortar, and the walls of the chimney should be wiped with a wet rag every 4-5 rows. In this case, you need to ensure that the solution in these places completely fills the seams.
- Seams brickwork for the furnace, they are made as thin as possible, and the seams are filled 100%. Masonry with thick seams is less durable, as they may partially fall out.
- The laying of the stove is carried out with the bricks tied, otherwise it will not hold. The meaning of the dressing is to ensure that the vertical seam of the next row is somewhere in the middle of the brick of the previous row. This does not always work out and the vertical seam “walks” from the center of the brick, now to the left, now to the right. This should be constantly monitored and the masonry adjusted so that the center of the vertical row does not extend beyond ¼ of the brick.
- The cut brick is laid outside the chimney duct, since the cut surface is considered weaker and can collapse under the influence of temperature.
Using fireclay bricks
Fireclay brick has excellent resistance to high temperatures and is therefore used to form the combustion chamber.
- Because of various coefficients Due to temperature expansion, the bricks of the combustion chamber are not tied to the stove bricks. There should be a gap of about 5 mm between them.
- When laying out a firebox from fireclay bricks, you can lay out the entire row or, after laying out, line the firebox with fireclay bricks.
Before installing the door, it should be checked for good fit and free rotation on the hinges.
So:
- If there are distortions or lack of smooth rotation, such defects should be eliminated, and if this is not possible, then replaced with new ones. You should also determine whether there are holes for mounting.
- For fastening, a soft (knitting) wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm and a length of about 50 cm is used. The wire is inserted into the hole and twisted.
- It is impossible to install the door after the masonry has been completed, so it is installed during the masonry process. In order for the door to hold well, the wire must sit in the seams, between the rows of bricks. Since the masonry is laid from bottom to top, the door is fastened in the same order. First, the lower ends of the wire are walled up, and then the upper ones.
- After laying the lower fastening ends, the door must be aligned strictly vertically and horizontally, followed by fixation. After the door is exposed, you can continue further work.
- This installation technique can be used to attach combustion chamber doors, blower doors and others. metal objects, such as valves, soot guards, etc.
- A very important step is installing the slab. It is installed on a clay mortar. The consistency of the mortar should be such that excess mortar comes out freely from under the slab, as a result of the pressure of its own weight. Its quantity should be such that it fills everything free space. We must not allow it to be small. Subsequently, under the influence high temperature the clay will bake and hold the slab securely on the surface.
- After finishing the work, you need to allow the stove to dry completely. This is no less than 14 days, after which the stove can be heated.
- To make the stove attractive, it can be covered with tiles. This is where the quality of the masonry can come in handy, especially if it was done with your own hands. It will be easy to lay tiles on a very flat surface, especially since high demands are also placed on its installation due to the presence of high temperatures.
Brick heating stoves: We select drawings depending on the chosen design. Laying the working part is best done using clay mortar. You have the instructions and, having selected the desired model from the photo, you can start working.