The most important step is finishing the corners. In order for the corner to be smooth and clear, without any defects (sags and depressions), desire alone is not enough. You need experience, attentiveness and knowledge of the nuances. Professionals kindly share their secrets on how to plaster a corner of a wall.
If the angle is crooked, then it is almost impossible to install the furniture evenly or household appliances. Any deviations will be clearly visible. Paintings, panels, photographs cannot be hung near corners. All this will highlight errors in finishing wall joints.
Tool and material
To successfully finish corners using mortar, you will need a certain set of tools for plastering walls. To work you need a trowel and graters different sizes, as a rule, as well as special spatulas for working in corners. When buying spatulas, you need to take into account that the angles are different, and the blades for the outer and inner corners are also needed different. In addition, you should prepare a container for the plaster mortar, a square, a plumb line and a level.
It is worth choosing the right Consumables for works. It is important to prepare leveling solutions. Plastering the corners is done with the same material that was used to finish the walls. Next, you will need a special corner that will greatly facilitate the process.
It happens various types. Most often, steel or aluminum perforated overlay is used for plastering corners. It has sufficient strength and will protect the wall well from chips.
Instead of a perforated galvanized corner, you can purchase a plastic cover. Plastic is not subject to corrosion processes, and some models can even be bent at certain angles to work with curved walls or surfaces. Price plastic product almost the same as that of a steel angle.
To apply a second layer of leveling solution, you can purchase combination products. There are strips of metal or fiberglass on the sides. Fiberglass is resistant to alkalis, so such products can be used if the wall is leveled cement mortar. In this case, it will be better than if the work was performed using a galvanized perforated corner.
Mixtures and solutions for plaster
IN finishing works ah use gypsum-based mixtures. This material is easy to use. If you fully comply with the technology, the composition will be very durable and the service life will be more than 15 years. The layer of mortar on the wall should be approximately 50 mm thick. If there are depressions, then in isolated cases it is possible to increase the layer to 70 mm. If work is carried out on the ceiling, then the layer thickness should be no more than 30 mm.
Apply plaster to brick, concrete, gypsum and sand-cement surfaces. Solutions are not intended for wood substrates.
To prevent the surface from rotting in the future, as well as to protect it from mold and mildew, you will need to pre-treat the corner with special impregnations.
When preparing the plaster mixture, it is important to fully follow the instructions. The amount of water and powder is usually indicated on the package. It is important to keep the proportions exactly. If you add less liquid, then the process of applying the solution will become more complicated. There will also be a possibility of cracking of the surface after drying. If there is too much water, the mixture will not be able to fill the voids in the corner and gain strength.
Experienced specialists who know exactly how to plaster a corner of a wall do not recommend diluting the mixture with technical water - it must be clean and free of impurities. Since the solution is quite thick, it should be stirred with a mixer for about 2-3 minutes.
Preparatory stage
Before applying plaster to the walls, it is necessary to prepare the surface. Using a hammer drill or any other tool, knock down all the protrusions and also dismantle the weakened areas. Next, the entire surface must be cleaned of dust. Particular care must be taken to remove oil stains and old paint- such places are very problematic.
At the last stage of preparation, you need to treat the walls and corners with a primer.
Installation of guides
For installation on the surface, beacon profiles are attached. They must be set strictly according to level. A thick solution is applied to the edge of the surface. The layer must be of sufficient thickness to securely fasten the part at the required distance. Next, the overlay is cut to height and glued to the load-bearing surface.
To accurately align the corner, its position is adjusted using a level. The corner must be shifted until it is in the desired position.
The internal corners are glued with plaster mesh. Special walls and devices for solving this problem are used very rarely - at the junction point the wall does not experience any special loads.
If the layer of mortar is thick, then the corner is attached to self-tapping screws. In this case, fasteners are used with corrosion protection or stainless steel. If you use conventional fasteners, then in the future rusty elements will be visible through the finish.
External corner finishing
After the solution on which the corner was fixed has dried, you can begin processing the corners. Internal and outside corner are formed differently. We'll look at what to do in each situation.
To finish the exterior, the mortar is applied with a trowel. A lot of material is laid along the surface. Using the rule, remove excess plaster from one wall, and then from the other. The rule is based on the corner and beacons.
Use spatulas and graters to correct defects after the rule. If necessary, add a little mortar and smooth out the indentations. Then, using longitudinal movements of the spatula, the planes are finally leveled.
Internal corner
Now let's see how to draw an internal angle. The scheme will be slightly different. First of all, the beacons are placed so that the planes of the walls are connected at 90 degrees. If there are several corners, then they retreat slightly from the perpendicular - this will not be visible.
Next, carefully align one wall along the beacons. This is done by rule. In this case, the process is adjusted using a grater and spatula. When one wall has set, the adjacent plane is treated. Those who know how to apply plaster on walls recommend using a spatula with a beveled blade rather than a straight one. Such a tool will not touch the finished drawn plane.
To form an angle you will need special tool- a spatula with a curved blade. This tool is used from top to bottom and removes excess material. Clear contours are also created.
Finishing work
How to plaster a corner of a wall? The final part of the work still needs to be completed. When the solution sets, it needs to be rubbed. The choice of grout depends on further work- if putty is going to be done, then rub it down to remove gross defects. If wallpapering will be done, then finishing performed better.
You need to rub in a circular motion. The corner is processed as carefully as possible. It is more convenient to sand the inner corner with sandpaper folded in half. You can also use a wooden wedge.
Conclusion
The article described how to plaster a corner of a wall with your own hands. With certain skills, as well as the necessary tools, this work is not so difficult to do.
Many people know how to properly plaster walls, the process is simple and after several trainings, the coating turns out perfect, but the corners are a task on a completely different level. Unfortunately, when I often start work, home craftsmen ignore this moment, leaving it for last, and in vain, since it is the angle of the wall that sets the direction for the entire coating.
And subsequent finishing, be it wallpaper or painting, will reveal all the errors and spoil the entire impression of the new renovation.
That is why I decided to consider in detail the question of how to plaster the corners.
Interior
This is considered to be the most difficult stage in plastering, and so I decided to start with it. First, you need to prepare everything necessary tools, some of which may be unfamiliar home handyman without experience:
- A long rule will be needed to level a large area between the beacons.
- Average length rule, necessary for comparison small plots and removing excess plaster mixture.
- Angle spatula. This tool is designed as right angle at 90 degrees and is capable of leveling the surface in hard to reach places, where no other tool will fall short.
- Construction level 1.5-2 meters long. It is necessary to align the beacons along the entire length. You can get by with a short level, but this will significantly slow down the process and create certain difficulties.
- 90 degree square. To determine the perpendicularity of beacons.
Advice! Before starting work, the construction level must be checked for errors. This is quite simple to do, just place the tool against the wall, achieve an even line, and draw a line. After this, the level is turned over and applied to the drawn line on the other side. If the readings remain the same, the level is operational and ready for use, but if the readings on the same line on the right and left are different, then the tool is lying and needs to be adjusted or replaced.
Plastering the inner corner
First of all, it is necessary to fix the beacons. They are attached to the wall using plaster mortar, which makes it easier to adjust their level. The step between the fastenings should be about 20 cm; this will not allow the lighthouse to “walk” and sag under the pressure of the rule.
The outermost beacon is placed approximately 5 centimeters from the corner so that it is exactly perpendicular to the wall from which the corner is created.
After the beacons are fixed, they need to be allowed to dry and firmly adhere to the wall surface, after which you can proceed to “throwing on” the first layer of plaster. Excess mixture is removed as a rule in such a way as not to damage the other wall, so there will be unevenness in the corner itself; they are smoothed out with a corner spatula, while you need to apply slight pressure on the tool so that the corner is slightly lower than the walls themselves. This is necessary for applying the finishing layer and final leveling.
After removing all the unevenness of the first layer, you can begin applying the second. The process is completely no different from that described above, with the only difference being that now there is no need to press the corner spatula.
Now all that remains is to process the walls and the corner with fine sandpaper and everything is ready.
External
This process is considered less labor-intensive, since the corners are aligned with plaster using special corners that act as a beacon, and can also be with a reinforced mesh glued.
“Old school” specialists often consider such innovations overkill and carry out repairs without them. But don't deny all the benefits. modern materials, since corners significantly improve the quality of the plaster and strengthen the corner.
Here are just a few arguments in favor of plastering corners:
- The steel beacon strengthens the coating and causes the plaster to crumble.
- An additional reinforcing mesh reliably connects the two walls, making the coating monolithic.
- There is no need to carefully smooth out the corners, since the beacon is already level and is the zero mark in the plaster of the entire wall.
- Plastering corners is much faster, and the process does not take much effort.
First of all, it is necessary to determine the most convex place on the wall that cannot be eliminated or leveled. This is the starting point in installing beacons. In order for the wall to be smooth and without drops, all beacons, including the corner one, must be located on the same level.
This can be determined using a long rule that applies to the outer beacons, and everything that is between them must fit tightly to the instrument.
When the beacons are fixed, you can proceed directly to plastering, and the corner itself will simply need to be sanded.
Advice! corners can be of different configurations: with an acute angle or with a rounded one. They should be selected based on the subsequent finishing. It is better to use a sharp corner for wallpaper, while a rounded corner is suitable for decorative plaster or painting.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in finishing corners, the main thing is to just know the technology and pay attention Special attention setting beacons by level.
- The base under the plaster should always be thoroughly cleaned and primed.
- Cellular concrete does not come into contact well with gypsum plaster.
- There should not be long breaks between applying layers of plaster, finishing layer applied as soon as the first one begins to dry.
- Before plastering the corners, you need to cut the beacons to size, it is advisable to do this with scissors or a jigsaw, since the grinder burns the galvanized layer and the beacon will quickly begin to rot at the cut site.
- You can start finishing the walls no earlier than two weeks after plastering.
- Before plastering the corners of the walls, they need to be carefully primed, and it is best to use a brush here, since the roller will not be enough, and subsequently in this place the layer will begin to fall off.
Using these tips and using quality materials, finishing the corners will no longer seem like a difficult task. As they say, nothing is impossible, but before starting work you should still practice.
When carrying out rough finishing work, the question arises of how to plaster the corners of the walls. These areas are quite difficult to process. Therefore, the technology and premises of the building have its own nuances and characteristics.
First of all, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface of the walls. During the work itself, the main condition for its quality is the creation of an absolutely even corner joint.
Some points to consider
Before you draw out the corners when plastering, you should take into account that there are two methods for aligning them.
The use of these methods depends on the subsequent .
- If it is ceramic, porcelain stoneware, clinker tiles, or wallpaper with an abutting pattern, then the corners must be aligned exactly to the level.
- When the walls are painted, covered with wallpaper without a pattern, or covered decorative plaster, then the corners can be aligned only along the plane.
Before work, you need to select a type of plaster mixture, calculate the approximate consumption and purchase it.
- If you plan to decorate the walls outside the house or wet rooms inside it, then the work should be carried out using cement, lime, or polymer plaster.
- In dry rooms, in addition to the above types of solutions, gypsum-based analogues can also be used. The instructions do not recommend using them in damp rooms, since the material does not have sufficient moisture resistance.
Note! Buy plaster mixtures produced only well-known manufacturers. Even if their price is a little higher, you will be sure of the quality of the work. Before plastering, treat the corners with your own hands with deep penetration primer. It will significantly improve the adhesion of the finish and the base.
Plastering works
To finish the corners you will need the following:
- plastic container for solution;
- bubble level and plumb line;
- aluminum rule;
- large, medium and small spatulas;
- foam or wooden grater;
- electric drill with a nozzle for stirring the solution;
- sandpaper of various grain sizes.
Processing internal corners
- Before plastering the corners, check their evenness using a plumb line or level. If they have very protruding tubercles, knock them off with a chisel and hammer. This will make your main work easier and save plaster mixture.
- After the surface is prepared, it needs to be primed. This treatment will strengthen the corners and improve the adhesion of the plaster to the wall. The surface must be primed for the entire length of the rule used.
- On the question of how to do straight corners when plastering. The control guides (beacons) will make your work much easier. They need to be done right in the corner.
- When the primer is dry, you can begin installing the beacon. It should be a strip of gypsum mortar, 4/5 centimeters wide. The mixture must be mixed well before application so that there are no lumps left in it.
- The finished solution is applied in the form of a strip to one of the adjacent sides of the corner from top to bottom. Next, it is aligned vertically using a rule and a level.
- After grasping the first beacon, in the same way you need to install another control guide on the opposite wall.
- Then you can begin to level the angle itself.. First you need to throw or spread the solution over this entire section of the wall.
- Its excess is removed using the rule. Important nuance How to plaster internal corners correctly. To tighten the angle unnoticeably and smoothly, you need to choose a rule that is of sufficient length to support the beacons.
- When tightening the mortar, one side of the tool should rest on the guide strip, the other, when moving vertically along the wall, should cut off excess plaster.
Note! This excess solution is not recommended to be reused, especially if it is quickly hardening gypsum plaster. Particles of the mixture that have begun to set will disrupt the homogeneity and plasticity of the material.
- After spreading the main layer of the mixture, apply another thin layer of mortar (covering) to correct minor unevenness and grooves. Tighten it also with a rule.
- Experts give another valuable advice on how to remove a corner with plaster. Its final alignment is most conveniently carried out using a special one.
Plastering external corners
Now about how to properly plaster the corners of external walls.
- First of all, they are checked for evenness. If necessary, use a chisel to knock off all the ridges and protrusions.
- Then the wall surface is primed.
- For high quality plastering external corners, it is best to apply metal profiles. They are corner strips with perforations.
- These ready-made guide beacons are attached to the corners by pressing them into the gypsum mortar previously applied to the wall.
- Excess mortar coming out of the holes must be removed with a spatula, and then check the vertical installation of the beacon.
- Next, plaster beacons are placed on both sides of the corner.
- After this, the surface of the adjacent walls between the metal guide and the plaster is plastered.
Conclusion
Now you know how to align corners with plaster in the optimal way. The main thing here is accuracy and carrying out the work strictly according to the level. If something remains unclear to you, watch the video in this article.
Furniture manufacturers always carefully measure its rectangular shape, but in apartments sometimes the geometry of the room turns out to be incorrect, and you need to decide how to make straight corners when plastering. After all, it’s unlikely that anyone needs problems when arranging the interior when wardrobe, made taking into account the presence of baseboards, does not fit into a narrowing corner, or, conversely, huge gaps remain between the furniture and the walls. Therefore, let’s deal with practical stereometry, that is, work with voluminous figure, which, in fact, is the room.
How to make even corners when plastering if the curvature is small?
Most often, owners of houses and apartments are faced with the problem of fairly crumbled external corners that have lost their shape, at the turns of corridors, in niches and alcoves, on vertical beams(reinforced concrete crossbars). It’s quite simple to check how big the error is; just take a regular metric square and place it on the converging surfaces of the walls. If curvature occurs, either one scale will not touch the wall, or vice versa, both will touch, and at the junction of the walls between them and measuring instrument there will be a gap. In other words, our external angle is acute or obtuse, respectively.
If the deviation from the correct geometry is small, up to 2-3 millimeters, to correct it it will be enough to use a counter-shultz (perforated corner overlay) and a putty mixture. With a very small error (up to 1 millimeter), one putty is enough. Before making even corners when plastering walls, a primer is always used, the same applies to other finishing materials.
After priming, generously cover the entire vertical joint of the walls with the mixture and apply the perforated part so that part of the leveling compound appears through the holes. Next, use a regular spatula to smooth out the visible finishing material so that the counter-shultz disappears almost completely under it. From the corner, use the same putty to level the entire wall using the rule.
Aligning external corners with a large error
If the situation is much more serious than we would like, you will need a three-line laser level, according to which we will level the wall, as well as a couple of old two-meter rules and a plaster mixture. It is advisable that the beam level be supplied with a tripod, with which you can set marks at different heights. We will also use the counter-shultz, but as a fastening element, to increase the reliability and durability of the corner, so we take a perforated overlay with wider shelves or with a mesh. Now regarding the finishing itself.
How to align external corners when plastering - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Making the fixture
Using lasers, between which the angle is exactly 90 degrees, we make a two-meter square from the rules, folding their ends overlapping so that the rays pass exactly along the inner edges along the entire length up to the far ends. We screw in three self-tapping screws at the connection point. Such a device for checking the geometry in the layout is only suitable if both walls are longer than two meters. If one of them is significantly shorter than the rule, we either saw off the excess part of one of the sides of the square, or do not make it at all, but use exclusively a laser, which is more difficult, but no less effective.
Step 2: Setting up beacons
If the walls, the convergence of which needs to be set at 90 degrees, are longer than two meters, we rest the laser beams on their far ends and use self-tapping screws along the luminous lines (twisting to the required depth) to place beacons under the far ends of the connected rules. Next, we screw the screws into the holes specially made for them at equal intervals along the square, first on the same plane, then we rise a meter and a half higher. We try to drill on different levels holes one above the other, for which a laser level is also useful.
Step 3: Installing beacon profiles
So, we have self-tapping screws screwed in even rows along the entire wall and secured with either gypsum plaster or putty. Now we need to make sure that they are all at the same level, for which we resort to a laser, installing it at the lower corner screw on the plane of its head. All other screws should also light up, those that are slightly lower, we unscrew, and those that go beyond the line, we screw in. We fix it vertically using self-tapping screws with plaster plaster mortar beacon profiles 6 mm thick. To do this, apply the solution in vertical stripes along the screws, put profiles on it and press it along the entire length with a rule until it touches the screws and lies on them. We remove the excess mixture, being careful not to touch the lighthouse.
Step 4: Forming the Outer Corner
Then you can apply the primer, and when it dries, apply the plaster. In general, this primer layer should be the second; the walls should be coated first after placing the screws in one plane, having previously cleaned off the excess mixture that fixes them. Plaster mixture applied in a layer of about 3 centimeters, compacted along the beacon profiles using the rule (for this we disassemble our device). When both walls are ready and we reach their connection, we put the two rules together again and with their help, sketching out the mixture, we form a corner. Next, apply the contra-shultz with the mesh, lightly pressing it into the mixture, which we spread on top. The second layer should lie on top after the first has dried.
Between each layer finishing material It is advisable to apply a primer even before laying the top coat. It follows from this that you should wait for each layer to dry completely.
Plastering internal corners, setting geometry with laser
The error in the degree of internal closure of the walls is somewhat more difficult to determine, since it will no longer be possible to use a laser level; the housing will interfere. Therefore, we still use our same giant two-meter goniometer, but first we still take a level and with its help we prepare the “starting” supporting wall, that is, the one in relation to which we will set the second plane. To do this, you will need a three-line level, whose rays diverge 180 degrees from the body installed in the center of the wall.
How to plaster internal corners - step by step diagram
Step 1: Beacons on the supporting wall
First, we screw in the laser screws along the floor. Then we move to a higher level, fixing the screws exactly above the lower ones. So we move upward, exposing the plane with beacons, which should eventually line the vertical surface into even squares with sides of about 1 meter.
Step 2: Installing beacons on an adjacent wall
First, we screw in only one self-tapping screw, at the level of the far end of our large square, the second strip of which already lies evenly on the row of screws of the “starting” surface. Then, exactly along the edge of the rule, we install the second beacon, the closest one, adjusting its height with a screwdriver. We do the same with the rest, adjusting them using a laser directed along the entire wall and a protractor until the second wall is covered with rows of screws.
The plaster square is used for proper finishing angles, with its help you make the right geometric shape. After all, the angle immediately catches your eye and incorrect geometry can ruin the entire design of the room.
Plastering corners video will show you the most difficult areas of this work. Instructions for finishing will also be offered. different angles, because there are several types of them.
I would like to say right away that it is best to use a plaster profile for the corner. It will not only allow it to maintain its shape correctly, but will also make it more rigid. So, when doing this work with your own hands, you should pay attention to this. Its price is not high, but the effect will be noticeable.
Essentially, there are two types of corners, you can see this in the video in this article, and accordingly, their finishing is done differently. Let's look at each option in detail.
Plastering internal corners
High-quality plaster will help level not only room walls, but also corners, giving them a clean and neat look. For finishing internal corners, there are two methods that are worth considering in detail - processing the wall at the junction with an already tiled one and plastering work simultaneously with two walls.
Attention: Before finishing an internal corner, you should always immediately check for unevenness using a square, then you will immediately see the applied layer. If necessary, you can always use corner beacons for plaster.
So:
- The first method involves applying two plaster layers(spray and soil) using the classical method, starting at the junction between the walls and evenly distributing the resulting mixture over one of them, and then applying a properly prepared solution.
- For these steps you will need suitable tool– a trowel, – which should be laid flat on ready-made plaster at an angle of thirty to forty degrees, and then alternately move up and down along the wall, starting from the inner corner.