How to plaster window slopes. Quick and correct plastering of window slopes. How long does it take for plaster to dry?

Plastering window slopes is an activity that requires a certain level of skill. After all, it is quite difficult to correctly display all the planes. In addition, flaws and shortcomings of the work will be clearly visible, because window openings are always visible and well lit. However, despite the spread of more modern methods, such finishing does not lose its position, since this method of finishing has a number of significant advantages.

To make plastering of slopes you need to have skills

What are the advantages that make plaster still popular? The first advantage is the fairly low cost necessary materials. This finishing option is much more economical than using plastic, drywall, etc., because the material used for the work is inexpensive and can be prepared simply and quickly. Secondly, properly executed plastering is done once and for all. You will have to return to the problem of slopes only if there is a need to replace windows or doors. Finally, such a surface is not afraid of the physical impact that may be exerted on it during operation. From impacts that could break the plastic or plasterboard slope, she won't get hurt at all.


This option is suitable for those who have a limited budget.

Another plus - ample opportunities decorative design. After a little additional processing, they can be painted, wallpapered, mosaiced or other decorative elements. If over time it becomes necessary to redecorating rooms, they can be easily hidden with platbands or panels.

At the same time, the process of carrying out such work is labor-intensive, as well as the need for preliminary preparation of both the surface itself and the room in which it will be carried out.


After plastering the slopes, they can be painted or covered with wallpaper.

Tools and mixes

Plastering begins with the selection of the necessary mixtures and tools that will be needed in the process. It is necessary to prepare everything in advance, because the technology does not allow delays, especially after the solution has been prepared. Minimum set necessary tools and equipment includes:

  • level;
  • rule;
  • pencil;
  • roulette;
  • malka;
  • putty knife;
  • Master OK;
  • hammer;
  • solution container;
  • water container.

Before you start work, you need to prepare everything necessary tools

The level should be of high quality and not too long so that it is more convenient to operate with it. The rule is better to choose aluminum. Trowel should be chosen small sizes, and the spatula is 5 centimeters wide.

In addition, you may need a can of polyurethane foam, sealant, and a stationery knife of suitable sizes. It is also desirable to have smoothers, a grater and a grater, as well as a convenient construction sawhorse of appropriate sizes. However, when performing plastering door slopes, you can get by with ordinary durable chairs.


An important step is the choice of mixture for plaster

Don't forget about overalls. It should be comfortable and not restrict movement. You should wear nitrile gloves on your hands - this will protect your skin from direct contact with the solution.

Traditional - using a self-prepared mortar based on cement, sand and water, sometimes with the addition of glue. This is perhaps the most cost-effective method. Its advantage is its low cost, the disadvantage is the need to prepare the solution yourself, observing the proportions to achieve the required consistency and physical properties.


You can prepare the mixture yourself

The second method is to purchase ready-made dry mixtures. In order to obtain a solution, it is enough to dilute them with water. They are usually easier to apply than self-prepared compounds.

Finally, the third method is a ready-made liquid solution. This is the most expensive and most comfortable of possible options. In addition to cement, sand and water, it contains various additives that increase plasticity and enhance other beneficial features. Most modern types Such ready-made compositions are also distinguished by the fact that after application it does not need to be rubbed down, so all processes are simplified.


Liquid solution is the most expensive and most comfortable of the possible options.

Preparation

Proper preparation and processing is the key to successful completion of work. On a properly prepared surface, the solution applies more easily and evenly, and plastering proceeds much faster.

First of all, you should protect the windows and window sill by covering them with special adhesive tape. After all, no matter how carefully the slopes are plastered, the solution will still end up on their surface. If the door slopes are to be plastered, it is better to remove the door leaf and protect the door with cloth, paper or adhesive tape. paper based.


Proper preparation and carrying out work is the key to success

Next comes the preparation of the slopes themselves. The old coating must be knocked off, all dirt and foreign inclusions, such as remnants of polyurethane foam, must be carefully removed. The wall should be primed by choosing the most suitable primer. This will protect against dampness and possible mold stains. If there are visible gaps in the polyurethane foam around the perimeter of the window, it is necessary to eliminate them by foaming them again.

Then you need to apply a layer of special vapor barrier adhesive tape to the foam. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the corners - this is where most often there are places where moisture leaks from the street, leading to damage to the slopes. Instead of tape, you can use a special waterproof adhesive sealant to waterproof slopes.


All work should be carried out strictly according to technology

You can make a mold, that is, a slope template, yourself. Its length should correspond to the opening, and its width should be about 1 5 centimeters. The simplest version of the fry is made of plywood - the material is easy to process and cheap. If planned Full time job, professional plastering of slopes, it is better to make a template from aluminum - it is more durable and better removes excess, forming flat angle. It is necessary to use malka during the work, otherwise the surface will be uneven.


Before you start working, you should make a template

The temperature in the room for working with the plane of a doorway or slopes with your own hands should not be lower than 10 degrees. Many sources say that simple cement mortar for slopes it can be applied at a lower temperature, but in practice at such temperatures it becomes more difficult to work with, and it dries much worse.

Relative to the top temperature range no recommendations. The only thing that needs to be done in extreme heat is to periodically moisten the plastered surface, especially after plastering window slopes, if direct falls fall on them. Sun rays.


In extreme heat, it is recommended to occasionally moisten the plaster

The first stage of plastering slopes is the installation of special beacons, which are a thin aluminum profile. They will serve to ensure that the plaster is applied in an even layer, and finished surface was devoid of bulges, bumps and holes. For correct installation Beacons along the edges of slopes or doorways, self-tapping screws are screwed in or dowels are driven in, between which a fishing line or thread is stretched - strictly parallel. Next, beacon profiles are attached along this thread.


First of all, beacons are placed on the slopes

Next, the solution is prepared. For the first stage of work on repairing the slopes of a window or doorway, it should have a consistency similar to thick sour cream. Apply directly onto the prepared surface. If the wall material is too smooth, it is better to use plaster mesh- this will make casting much easier. At this stage, you should only monitor the uniformity of the layer and adhesion to the slope material.

The plaster is applied with jerky movements, little by little. The main task is excellent adhesion; the plaster should lie as tightly as possible on the surface of the slopes.

The second layer is applied about ten millimeters thick. IN ideal it should be twice as thick as the first, rough layer. The solution for it is prepared thicker than for the first layer. It is applied with a spatula, and the surface of the slopes is equalized to the aluminum beacons using the rule.


The second layer should be thicker than the previous one

The third layer, the so-called finishing layer, is the thinnest and most even. The solution for it should be very plastic, not flowing. With its help, all the unevenness of the resulting slopes is leveled. If you use a self-prepared solution, the plaster should dry a little. Then it is grouted, maximally leveling the slopes. If plastering of slopes is done with a ready-made dry mixture, the final stage of plastering is no different. If plastering is carried out using ready-made liquid mixture, then the final smoothing of the slopes is carried out using special smoothing irons and does not require rubbing.

In general, plastering slopes with your own hands is quite within the capabilities of people with minimal construction or repair experience. With proper preparation, both plastering window slopes with your own hands and plastering door slopes will be carried out correctly, and the window opening and door will look aesthetically pleasing.

Video: Plastering slopes

Video: Plastering window slopes

Plastering is the most cost-effective option for arranging window slopes. This is not a difficult job, but despite the extreme simplicity of execution, you also need to prepare for it.

If you have no experience in carrying out such activities, it is recommended that you first practice plastering simpler surfaces such as ceilings and walls. Having mastered the basic subtleties of the process, you will be able to plaster window slopes yourself no worse than a qualified craftsman.

Before starting work, prepare all the necessary equipment to complete it. It is better to collect all the required elements in advance so as not to be distracted by searching for missing elements in the future.

You will need:


When choosing a building level, pay attention to the length of the product - the tool should fit normally between the window sill and the window lintel. At the same time, the level should not be too short either - it is simply inconvenient to work with such a tool. The optimal length of the level is 100 cm.

Additionally, you may need various auxiliary devices, namely:


Before you start finishing works, you have to complete several preparatory activities. Give them due attention. The convenience and speed of further finishing and the overall quality of the finished coating directly depend on the correct preparation.

It is better if the window sill is installed before finishing begins. Otherwise, in the future you will have to close the gaps that appear between the side window slopes and the mounted window sill.

First step. Provide reliable protection window sill from damage and contamination with the solution. For protection, it will be enough to cover the product with simple thick cardboard or suitable sized drywall scraps, if available.

Second step. Remove old plaster, paintwork and any kind of contamination from the surfaces of the opening, if any. The wall for laying plaster must be clean and level; the presence of dust and any other contaminants is unacceptable.

Third step. Cover the glass unit with plastic film. You just need to glue it protective film to the glass unit with tape.

Pens, heating batteries and also wrap all other accessories with film or thick paper.

Fourth step. If you find excess foam (it is assumed that all the cracks have already been filled with this material after installing the window), carefully cut them off with a sharp knife.

Fifth step. Cover the surfaces of the opening with a deep penetration primer mixture. This treatment will help improve adhesion (setting of the applied plaster mortar with a finished surface).

When choosing plaster, focus primarily on the material used to make the window opening. A consultant from a specialized store will help you choose the right mixture.

Sixth step. Install a vapor barrier layer. To do this, seal the foam seal with a special film vapor barrier material or cover it with a frost-resistant silicone sealant.

Apply the sealant to a previously cleaned and dry surface. Dispose of excess sealant immediately. It is very difficult to remove hardened product.

Without an internal vapor barrier of the foam seal, the foam will constantly get wet from the condensation that forms and lose its thermal insulation properties and collapse. In parallel with the foam, glass and slopes will begin to get wet, a draft will appear in the room, etc.

Seventh step. Make some. It can also be purchased at finished form, but making it yourself will save you some money.

Malka is an ordinary template used for plastering. Inspect the window slopes. You will notice that they do not have a strictly even shape, but seem to expand slightly inward, due to which the dawn of the window is created. To properly plaster such a surface, a small amount is needed.

Video - Using malka

For self-made The easiest way is to use sheet plywood. Ready template will have a width of about 150 mm, and a length 50-100 mm greater than the length of the slope. You need to make a cutout on one side of the template. You will move the side with the cutout along the window slope, and the second side along the pre-mounted beacon.

As a result, the finished surface will be as smooth as possible. You also need to make an additional cutout in the template to accommodate the window hinges.

The production of malka should be taken with full responsibility. The working surfaces of the template should be as smooth as possible.

Professional painters and plasterers use aluminum paints in their work. Such devices are usually made according to individual order, but also ready-made options can be found in specialized stores. At this point, make the decision at your own discretion.

Of course, slopes can be plastered without a template, but in such a situation the angles are unlikely to be the same.

What do you need to know before starting work?

To make the work as easy as possible, and to ensure that the finished coating is durable, beautiful and of high quality, remember and follow the following simple rules:

The procedure for plastering slopes

The process of finishing slopes with plaster does not differ significantly from plaster simple walls with an angle. However, as already noted, when finishing window slopes, it is strongly recommended to use powder.

First step. Determine the location of the angle of repose.

Second step. Set the rule with a level at a certain angle and mark the position of the angle on the wall surface with a pencil.

Third step. Apply starting plaster solution to the surface to be finished. The bottom layer of plaster should be thick enough.

Fourth step. Press the template onto the sash and begin to slowly smooth the plaster down the slope. Your task is to get correct angle and a smooth surface of the slope without irregularities.

Fifth step. Remove the rule by slowly moving the tool along the sloped corner.

Sixth step. After the bottom layer has dried, apply the finishing plaster mixture to the slopes. Pre-place special products called perforated corners at the corners of the slopes. Such elements should be fixed in the starting layer of plaster that has not yet dried, slightly pressing them into the coating. Thanks to these devices, additional protection of the edge from various types of damage will be provided.

After a while we use the ironing iron

Apply the finishing coat in the same order as the starting coat. Make the second layer thinner than the first.

Level plaster composition until the most even and perfectly smooth finish is obtained.

In the case of finishing plastic slopes window designs a number of separate rules must be followed.

The work is performed in the sequence described above. After completing the slope, you need to cut a small groove in the still wet plaster mortar with a spatula. Make it between the frame of your window and the slope itself. A recess up to 0.5 cm wide will be sufficient. The finished recess should be filled with silicone sealant.

PVC (the main material for the manufacture of the windows in question), especially if it is of low quality, expands noticeably when heated. In hot weather, the plastic can expand so that cracks form at the junction points between the block and the slopes. Silicone sealant has an elastic structure and will not allow the problem described above to occur.

Now you know how to cope with plastering slopes on your own. Follow the recommendations received and everything will definitely work out.

Good luck!

Video - Plastering slopes with your own hands

It’s not difficult to figure out how to plaster slopes. However this work requires maximum responsibility and a competent approach. You will be able to properly plaster window slopes only after a detailed study of the basics of plastering other, simpler surfaces (for example, ceilings and walls). Therefore, it is advisable to practice first, and only then plaster the window slopes. Several simple and intelligible, but very useful recommendations will help you do this in the best possible way.

Preparing tools and materials for work

Any repair work requires the use of appropriate tools and materials. And it is no exception. The specific set of tools depends on what materials you will use to do the work. However, you will not be able to cope without the following devices in any situation.

Plastering window and door slopes using paint: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - position of the screed when plastering the slope; 5 - box; 6 - small.

Prepare:

  • aluminum rule;
  • building level;
  • measuring tape and pencil;
  • malka;
  • several spatulas (must be 5 cm);
  • containers for water and solution;
  • Master OK;
  • hammer-pick.

It is not enough to just know a list of tools. In order to properly plaster window slopes, it is necessary to use the most suitable devices for this process. For example, too long level no help for you in such work. It may not fit into the space between the window sill and the lintel and will become completely useless. However, even using an overly short tool, it will not be possible to plaster the window slopes - it will be very inconvenient. That's why the best option is a level 100 cm long. Such auxiliary tools, like a knife and a caulk gun.

When working, you may need a can of polyurethane foam. Carefully examine the condition of the window before going to the store. If there is a gap between the window opening and the frame, then a cylinder will definitely be needed.

If you use ready-made cement mortar for plastering, you will additionally need a trowel and a float. If you use other solutions, then prepare the irons different sizes, sponge grater and medium spatula. In most cases, a 45 cm spatula is sufficient.

Prepare good protective clothing and shoes. They should be such that you are comfortable. Be sure to choose a suitable headgear so that the plaster does not fall on your head when processing the window slope. Due to the fact that while working with plaster you will have to come into contact with your hands, it is best to buy sealed nitrile gloves.

Very a good helper will become a plaster goat. You can make it yourself, buy it, or borrow it from someone. It is more convenient and safer to work with it. Plastering a window slope from a stool or ladder is not best idea. Firstly, it is less safe, secondly, it takes longer, and thirdly, it is not very convenient.

Return to contents

Preparation for processing window slopes

Before plastering the window itself begins, you will need to complete a number of preparatory activities. How thoroughly and thoroughly you approach preparatory process, not only the convenience of further work directly depends, but also the quality and durability of the finish.

It is recommended to install a window sill before work. This way you will avoid further work by sealing the gaps between the window sill and the side slopes, and further increase the strength of the installation. In such a situation, the window sill will need to be protected from mortar and mechanical damage. To do this, cover it with thick paper. If after renovation you still have unnecessary pieces of drywall, use them - it’s even better.

If there are traces of old plaster and other unnecessary dirt on the window, be sure to remove them. A high-quality finish can only be achieved by laying plaster on a durable and well-prepared surface. Any dirt, dust, paint, etc. will significantly worsen the final result.

Myself window unit It is recommended to carefully cover with film. It will be enough to stick it to the window using masking tape. Wrap batteries, pens and other items that may be “damaged” by the plaster during operation with thick paper.

Wall section with high quality plaster: 1 – spray; 2 – soil; 3 – cover; 4 – brick wall.

Remove excess polyurethane foam with a knife if you used it to seal cracks. To improve the adhesion of the plaster mortar to the base, you need to pre-treat the surface with a deep primer. When choosing a specific primer in a store, be sure to tell the consultant what the base is made of.

In the next step, you will need to work on the vapor barrier device. For this interior wall sealed vapor barrier film. It can be sealed with foam or treated with a special frost-resistant silicone sealant. Make sure the surface is dry before applying sealant. Otherwise, the composition will not stick. Remove excess sealant immediately. The frozen substance is very difficult to wash off.

If you do not vapor barrier the foam seal from the inside, then after some time the foam will become wet under the influence of condensation and will lose its original properties as insulation. In some cases, it may completely collapse. As a result, the windows will begin to sweat, and drafts will come from the street.

At the next stage you need to make malka. It represents a template according to which you will plaster. Look at the slopes of your window. You will notice that they are not perfectly straight, but rather flare out slightly inward. As a result of this, in fact, a window opening is formed. In most cases, a piece of plywood is used to make the fry. It should be 5-10 cm longer than the window slope. The width will be about 15 cm so that the template can be comfortably held by hand while working. A cutout is made on one side of the fry. During the plastering process, the side with the cutout will move along the slope. Side 2 you will move according to preliminary installed beacon. The mulka will ensure that the windows are as smooth as possible. Additionally, you need to make a cutout for the window hinges.

Be as responsible as possible when making the template. Make sure that work surfaces are as level as possible. If possible, remove a small chamfer (round off the surfaces with a file). This will prevent chips from appearing on the plywood during work.

Professional craftsmen use aluminum jigs for their work. They are made to order. However, if you do not plan to plaster slopes professionally, you can get by with a regular wooden template.

The slopes of windows and doors of any building must be made in accordance with the general style concept of the premises or the design of the facade. So that the decorative coating on them sticks well and for a long time pleased the owners of the house, the surface must be prepared and leveled. Perhaps the most simple and a budget option for buildings made of stone or concrete - leveling with plaster, especially since you can do everything yourself. The technology of this process for slopes is generally similar to plastering any surfaces, but there is important nuances, which need to be taken into account.

Peculiarities

Since the slopes will almost touch the window frames or door frames, before applying the coating, you must ensure that the installation of windows and doors is carried out correctly. If you have to troubleshoot after completing all the work, then, of course, the plaster layer will suffer, and the whole process will need to be repeated again.

Plastering slopes, in addition to the main tasks of leveling and decorating, performs some related functions:

  • additional vapor and moisture insulation;
  • improved thermal insulation;
  • additional noise protection.

Therefore, it is important to select the right materials and tools and carefully follow the recommendations so that the resulting coating does not crack and lasts a long time.

What will you need for the job?

Main material - plaster mixture. There are two types of plaster most commonly used: gypsum and cement-based.

Features of the cement mixture

There are compositions for rough coating, including coarse sand, and for finishing surface finishing - with fine-grained sand inclusions. Such solutions can be quickly prepared and are quite easy to apply. But you need to take into account that it takes a lot of time for the layer to dry completely, and this will increase the duration of the repair as a whole. But the diluted mixture sets so slowly that even an inexperienced performer will be able to cope with the work. Another plus is the inexpensive price.

Properties of gypsum plaster

The gypsum-based composition is also easy to prepare, but it dries very quickly, so it requires certain training of the worker. The ability to absorb moisture is also not always beneficial. If the mixture is used in dry interior spaces houses or apartments, this property, as well as the ability to release excess moisture, can be considered advantages. But it is still not recommended to coat a surface in direct contact with precipitation with such a composition. In terms of price, such plaster is somewhat more expensive than cement plaster, but if you take into account the more economical consumption, it may end up being even cheaper.

There is another option - special acrylic mixtures. They are universal and can be recommended for any surface. But the cost of materials is such that not everyone can afford to use them.

But you also need to prepare primers in advance: deep penetration and finishing. Putty and sealant may be needed.

Materials

The following tools should be at hand:

  • rule of the required length;
  • level at least 1 meter long;
  • wide spatula;
  • ironer;

  • grater;
  • construction knife;
  • hard brush;
  • pencil, preferably graphite.

It is necessary to prepare two containers: for water and plaster mixture.

It is most convenient to plaster along beacons, which are usually used as smooth planks, profiles or special metal corners. They immediately need to be prepared in the required quantity, since if you need to plaster the slopes of a row of windows on one wall, then the beacon frames are fixed on all of them at once on the same level.

If the thickness of the plaster layer is more than 2.8 cm, you will need a reinforcing mesh.

How to plaster?

All work must be carried out at a temperature not lower than 7 degrees. But it is also advisable to take into account the recommendations of material manufacturers on this parameter.

Window finishing

First you need to pay attention to the fact that the gaps between window frame and the wall is filled polyurethane foam, which can be destroyed under the influence of temperature and humidity changes. In addition, the same factors cause slight deformations of the frame, and this will be enough for the slope coating to crack prematurely. To prevent such troubles, it is recommended to do the following manipulations. Trim off excess foam construction knife or use the corner of a spatula to run along the edge of the frame around the entire perimeter to create a shallow groove that is filled acrylic sealant. Cover the entire surface of the foam with the same composition; when it dries, a film of additional vapor barrier is formed.

Sometimes the question arises whether to install a window sill before finishing the slopes. On the one hand, it is more convenient to work when the attached beacon strips are supported on it. Another argument in favor of this solution is the ability to perform additional thermal and vapor barrier with the same solution of the area under the window sill. But on the other hand, there is a danger of damaging it during the plastering process.

The width of the slopes depends on the thickness of the walls, and it must be taken into account that the angle between them will differ from 90 degrees. Derivation of the so-called dawn angle creates some complexity. Its value is usually indicated in the project by the developer or designer and is 5 - 7 degrees. This is necessary for better penetration of daylight into the room.

If a specific angle is not specified, it is determined using a simple calculation: 1 cm of deviation to the side of the frame for every 10 cm of slope width. For convenience, you can draw a guide line with a pencil on the window sill, if installed. The upper slope is most often made at a right angle.

Preparatory stage

Now you need to clean the surface, this can be done with a stiff brush. It is necessary to remove all layers that fall away. If there old plaster, it’s better to tap it to find out where it comes away from the wall. You need to try to remove these areas, otherwise they may fall off during the process or after finishing the work and ruin the whole result.

All holes and potholes must be filled with putty. After the putty has dried, treat the entire surface with a deep penetration primer, this will improve adhesion. If used cement mixture, then the priming step can be omitted, and just before applying the plaster, the surface can be slightly moistened.

Securing beacons

When the entire surface has dried properly, beacons are installed. You can prepare a frame, a kind of formwork, which is fixed around the perimeter so that the planks slightly protrude beyond the edge. Or use special corners. If the window sill is already installed, the side strips rest on it. If not, you can screw in a self-tapping screw for support.

Now, in the middle of each slope, profiles or similar strips are installed on the line of the dawn angle. Deviations are verified using a level and plumb line. You can attach it directly to the solution. To do this, throw a small amount of the prepared mixture onto the surface, install the strips accordingly and press firmly. After drying, you can continue working.

Plastering

The required amount of solution is prepared, especially for gypsum compositions, as they harden quickly. In this case, you should strictly adhere to the manufacturers' recommendations.

First, the first layer is poured, filling the entire area between the profiles. Level it with a spatula or small spoon, working from bottom to top. You need to try to achieve a tight fit of the plaster to the surface without the formation of voids, but also not to press too hard, so as not to remove the mortar. The width of the spatula must fully correspond to the size of the slope so that on the side of the frame there is a small gap for free opening of the window.

If there is no tool suitable for the width, you can use a specially prepared plywood template the right size with a cut corner.

When the layer dries a little, you will need to remove the beacons. The plaster is carefully cut and the profiles are removed. If special corners were attached to the edges, they can be left. The resulting grooves are filled with solution, and the entire layer is leveled.

If the layer thickness is more than 2.8 cm, reinforcement is fixed metal grid and the application of plaster is repeated. Sometimes, to be sure, a third layer is also done, but only after the second has completely dried. The surface is carefully leveled, corners are smoothed with corner spatulas

Now all that remains is to wait for everything to dry properly and sand the slopes with floats. You can secure the result by treating the entire surface with a finishing primer. The final design of the slopes can be achieved using any decorative coating.

When replacing windows or performing renovation work indoors, it is also necessary to work with slopes. Plastering slopes is a very labor-intensive and complex task, so you can do it better only when you have at least basic putty skills or experience in carrying out plastering work. Without experience, it is unlikely that it will be possible to perform high-quality plastering on slopes. However, if you have the desire and perseverance, you can get the job done efficiently and quite quickly.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare or purchase all the necessary tools and materials. Some tools will definitely be needed, and the need for some is determined by the initial state of the slope and other factors. It is recommended to organize before starting work workplace. Near this workplace there should be access to sockets to connect a mixer that will be used to mix the plaster mixture.

To avoid staining the floor and surrounding surfaces, it is recommended to lay a large piece of thick oilcloth on the floor and place all tools and materials on it.

This way the room will be clean, and it will be easy to clean the workplace after the renovation is completed.

Selection and preparation of tools

What tools will you need exactly to level the slopes with your own hands:

  1. An assortment of spatulas (preferably several pieces - 10 cm, 25 cm, a spatula whose length is slightly greater than the width of the slope).
  2. A level whose length is slightly less than the height of the window or door whose slopes need to be processed. If only door slopes are to be plastered, it is advisable to choose a level of one and a half meters; if both window and door slopes are to be plastered, a level of 1 m is suitable. On a large area, using a small level is not recommended.
  3. Rule. Its length must be greater than the length of the slope. If you have no experience working with the rules, it is better to choose aluminum, it is light and comfortable to work with.
  4. Bucket for mixing and washing tools.
  5. Cloths and brushes for washing tools.
  6. A square designed for setting the beacon at an angle of 90°.
  7. Rubber or rubberized gloves to protect hands.
  8. Polishers or smoothers for comfortable work with a slope.
  9. Container for primer (wide tubs are convenient).
  10. Brushes, brushes and rollers for priming.
  11. Mixer for mixing the mixture and whisks for it.

Depending on the selected sequence of work and method of processing the slope, the following tools may be needed:

  • dowels;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • hammer;
  • borax;
  • and so on.

Purchase of materials

To level slopes on windows or doors, you will need the following materials:

  1. Primer. You can use quartz or one designed for deep penetration. It is not recommended to dilute the primer with water - when plastering, maximum adhesion between surfaces is needed.
  2. Water. It is recommended to bring sufficient water to the work site before starting work. The larger the layer of plaster placed on the slopes, the faster the water intended for mixing the mixture will drain away. It is recommended to have 2 buckets - one for mixing plaster, and the second for washing tools.
  3. Any starting gypsum putty(ideal for plastering door and window slopes. The mixture has high plasticity, is easy to apply, and is comfortable to work with. It does not dry too quickly, and is also easy to wash).

How to plaster slopes

The technologies for how to plaster door slopes and how to work with window slopes are practically the same. Difficulties arise when working with the upper slope due to its extremely inconvenient location in space. After completing work with the side slopes, it is easier to work with the top one. Firstly, I already have some experience in plastering slopes, and secondly, since the side slopes are adjacent to the top, part of the work on forming the corners has already been completed.

Beacon fasteners

Plastering of slopes is carried out according to installed guides. Such guides can be long rules, even and smooth wooden beams, long pieces of profiles and the like. It is much easier to carry out work relying on beacons. To install guides on side slopes, it is most convenient to use a starting mixture for plaster. Several spatulas of the mixture are applied to the wall, and the beacon is attached directly to the plaster. It dries, and the slope is plastered along the lighthouse.

As for the upper slope, it is best to mount the lighthouse using brackets, profiles or dowel installations. This is more difficult, but more reliable. A beacon that is not dry can slide off the upper slope, and thus the plane will be plastered crookedly. The same rule applies when leveling slopes doorways.

This way all planes will be processed sequentially. When installing the beacon, you should make sure that it is placed level. Since the beacon gives a flat surface, you should make sure that it is level. To do this, a level is applied to one of the sides of the beacon and the guide is aligned with the level. After this, they need to be left to dry to the wall. After about an hour you can start plastering the slopes.

Slope preparation

Before leveling the slopes with plaster, take several preparatory steps.

These include:

  • cutting off with a stationery knife the protruding mounting or adhesive foam that was used when installing the window;
  • covering the window with masking tape and stretch film to prevent plaster from getting on it;
  • wiping dust from slopes (to improve adhesion), window sills and windows;
  • primer treatment of the entire slope.

All this can be done while the beacons are drying up. At the same time, it is recommended to organize a workplace, prepare a mixture for plaster, a spatula and other tools that will be needed when working with a slope.

Preparation of plaster

Before mixing the mixture, be sure to read the instructions on the package. Manufacturers give different recommendations regarding mixing specific putty mixtures. Therefore, to achieve best result and reliability, all manufacturer’s recommendations should be followed. When mixing the mixture, it does not matter whether the door or window slope will be plastered. It is important that the mixture has a consistency so that it will not flow or slide down the slope. At the same time, it will be comfortable to work with and there will be time before it dries to level the surface.

It is best to stir the plaster with a mixer. It is best to test what consistency it is with a small spatula - 10 or 15 cm.

Bucket in which plaster for slopes is mixed front door, interior doors or windows should be clean. Before mixing a new portion of the mixture, the bucket should be washed with a brush and rinsed.

Leveling the slope plane using a mixture

When the surface and the plaster mixture are prepared, they begin to apply it to the slope. The process of plastering door slopes is no different from processing window slopes; the technology for carrying out the work is the same. Using a spatula, the mixture is applied to the slope. It is recommended to process small areas, 20-30 cm.
First, the mixture is applied to them, and then using a trowel or wide spatula it is leveled. The spatula or trowel used to level the slope should be held at an angle of 90° to the plane of the slope, perpendicular. This way you can achieve an even and smooth slope.

The door itself will hinder movement when working with the slope, and there is a high probability of getting it dirty. It is best to work with slopes after installing the box.

Final work

After the slopes are plastered, you need to wait for it to dry completely or partially and remove the beacon. Regardless of the method used to attach it to the wall, it should be removed in the direction from the slope to the wall so as not to damage the layer of plaster. After removing the beacon, it will be noticeable that a small influx of plaster mixture has formed on the wall. It needs to be removed. If the plaster layer is still soft, you may be able to do this with a spatula. If not, you can use coarse sandpaper (number 40-80).

After the slopes are plastered, painting perforated corners can be installed on them. The corners help form an even angle and also protect the wall from chipping pieces of putty. After installing the corners, you can putty the slope with a finishing gypsum mixture.

Using the scheme described above, you can level the jambs of doorways and window slopes. Working with plaster is quite dirty, so it is recommended to do it in clothing that completely covers your arms and legs. After finishing work, all tools should be washed with a brush under running water and then wiped dry (except for power tools). This way the tools will last longer.

It is recommended to carry out work on plastering slopes with your own hands in the absence of any experience in carrying out repair work after watching training videos.
If possible, you should seek advice from those involved in repair work or .

Instructions for a beginner on finishing slopes with plaster - video