The garage in which it is installed metal workbench and the appropriate tools, turns from a car storage place into a full-fledged workshop. Using this equipment you will be able to perform a variety of repairs and chores, repair household appliances and design furniture.
In this article we will talk about how to make a workbench with your own hands. Their varieties and design will be discussed, a list of necessary tools and materials will be provided, and step-by-step instructions for performing the work will also be provided.
1 What is a workbench?
A workbench is a table designed for manual or instrumental processing of parts made of wood and steel, on which electromechanical and any types of installation work. To expand the functionality, the workbench can be equipped with auxiliary devices - a vice and stops; the presence of compartments (shelves, drawers) for storing tools and accessories is also useful.
The standard height of a workbench varies between 90-100 cm (depending on the height of the master), the width is 70-80 cm, the length is from 120 to 150 cm. There are also adjustable work tables, the height of which can be changed in the range of 50-150 cm - They are more convenient, but it is quite difficult to make such a workbench with your own hands.
There are 3 types of workbenches:
- carpentry;
- carpenter;
- metalworker
A homemade workbench of metalwork type consists of a frame (made from a profile square section) and a wooden tabletop 25-30 mm thick. A powerful tabletop is a mandatory attribute of a metalworking workbench; for additional protection, it is advisable to cover it with a sheet of galvanized metal 1-2 mm thick. In this case, the table cover can easily withstand hammer blows and other mechanical impacts.
Other types of workbenches are radically different from the design considered - the carpenter's table is long (up to 6 meters), it is equipped with special stops for fixing the workpieces being processed. The dimensions and structure of a carpenter's workbench are similar to a metalworker's, however, its tabletop is designed to handmade and does not imply the possibility of various fastening of workpieces, which limits the variability of the use of power tools.
1.1 Guide to making a workbench (video)
2 Making a workbench for the garage with your own hands
Since a mechanic's workbench is the most versatile and compact option, it makes sense to use it for installation on a balcony or in a garage. Typical designs There are quite a lot of such tables, some diagrams are given in this article, but the dimensions and design of the table are best selected individually. When drawing up a drawing, take into account what work will be carried out on the table and what dimensions of the workbench will be optimal for their implementation.
To make metal workbench you will need your own hands following materials:
- corner 50×50 (thickness 5 cm) - length 6.5 meters;
- corner 60×40 (3 mm) - 25 m;
- corner 40x40 (4 mm) - 7 m;
- metal strip 4 mm - width 45 mm, length 8 m;
- sheet for table top 2 mm - dimensions 220*75 cm and board of similar dimensions 40 mm thick;
- guides and plywood for drawers 15 mm thick (size depends on the number of drawers);
- self-tapping screws, screws, bolts;
- acrylic paint.
The above materials are designed for a homemade workbench 220 cm long and 70 cm wide. These dimensions allow you to optimally distribute the equipment on the tabletop - a vice and a circular saw so that they do not interfere with each other during work.
For power tools, you will need a grinder, a jigsaw, a drill, a screwdriver and a welding machine. Also prepare a level, tape measure, sandpaper, paint brushes and a metal brush.
Do-it-yourself metal workbench - step-by-step instructions:
- We cut according to the drawing steel profile and a strip into pieces of the required sizes. The corner will be used to construct a power frame, the strip will be used to install guides for fastening the side panels of the table.
- Using a welding machine, we connect the load-bearing frame, initially welding the upper rectangle of the table top - for this, two pipes of length 220 and 70 cm are used. Inside the rectangle, transverse stiffeners are welded in increments of 40 cm, and a corner is fixed at the upper end in which it will be placed wooden table top. Next, side legs 90 cm long are welded to the upper part, which are reinforced with belts coming from the central jumpers.
- After basic part The frame is ready; it is necessary to weld the panel for the power tool; it can be made folding, but the fixed structure is more reliable. As load-bearing elements for the panel, a corner 220 cm long and four segments of 95 cm are used. Two of them are fixed in the central part of the frame, two more - along the edges, after which a long corner is welded along their upper contour.
- All that remains is to finalize the frame - strips need to be welded to the load-bearing elements for further plywood sheathing, then the frame will need to be strengthened using jumpers in its corner parts.
- When making a workbench for the garage with your own hands, you cannot neglect the installation of drawers, since their presence will make the table more convenient to use. The boxes are made of 15 mm plywood, which is cut to size and connected with screws; guide elements are fixed on the side walls of the structure.
- Before laying the tabletop boards, the wood must be coated with an antiseptic, which will significantly extend its service life. The boards can be laid along or across the frame (depending on their length), after which the surface of the tabletop is sanded and covered steel sheet, which is fixed with self-tapping screws and painted.
- Next, we install the drawers, securing them with guide bolts screwed to the table. On the opposite side of the table you can make several open shelves; they are quite practical and convenient.
A mandatory attribute of a metalworking table is a workbench vice, which is placed in one of the corners of the tabletop. The vice is attached using anchor bolts, it will be useful to place a steel plate 1-2 cm thick between the vice and the table top for more reliable fixation of the tool.
The functionality of such a workbench with a vice can be further expanded by installing a circular or miter saw, a stationary jigsaw, or drilling machine. Like a vice, each of the tools is mounted in the corner of the workbench.
2.1 Requirements for a homemade workbench
A mechanic's workbench is a structure designed to work with cutting power tools and other potentially dangerous equipment, so it can only be used if the following safety requirements are met:
- when making a mini-workbench for installation in a small garage or on a balcony, it is necessary to ensure maximum stability of the structure; if necessary, the table is rigidly fixed to the flooring;
- there should be no sharp edges or protrusions at the corners of the tabletop;
- when installing a vibrating tool, it is necessary to use vibration-damping rubber gaskets;
- The workplace should be regularly cleaned of chips and oil stains.
The workbench design described in the article, with correct production, can withstand loads of over 200 kg. More requirements for desktops can be found in the regulatory documents GOST 20400 and GOST 22046.
If you are not confident in your skill and the instructions provided seem too complicated, the best solution There will be a purchase of a ready-made factory workbench. The world's leading manufacturer of such products is Workbench (Germany), which supplies the market with a wide range of products, which includes large-sized, compact and collapsible workbenches for plumbing, carpentry and carpentry.
The cost of Workbench desktops varies in the range of 7-20 thousand rubles, depending on the size and functionality. The Worckbench 110 model is best suited for domestic use - it is a collapsible aluminum table with retractable elements for fixing power tools and auxiliary equipment, which has proven itself well among masters all over the world.
Not a single workshop is complete without a workbench, it is called a workbench. The concept of a workbench is much broader than just a table, since it must have a number of features that distinguish it from simple table and do it an indispensable assistant In workshop. How to make it simple, convenient and compact carpentry workbench with your own hands made of wood and will be discussed in this article.
Introduction
There are three main types of carpentry workbenches:
- Stationary. The desktop is installed in a specific place, it is integrated into the interior of the workshop and is not intended to be moved.
- Folding. The workbench is installed in a specific place in the workshop, but it has several positions and can be easily transformed. For example, one position can be working, the second folded (retracted), or the workbench can be transformed to perform different technological operations.
- Mobile. Simply put, it’s a table on wheels. It can be easily moved to any comfortable spot In workshop. As a rule, it can also be foldable, so it has the ability to transform to change operating states.
The design of a wooden workbench, which is discussed in this article, is a folding homemade workbench.
General description of the workbench design
This version of the workbench has the simplest design. It is attached to the wall on one side, has two support legs and can be folded (retracted) into a vertical position. Thus, this design well suited for rooms that have limited space, as free space can be organized by transforming such a workbench.
A homemade workbench consists of the following basic elements:
| Name | Purpose and description |
| Tabletop | Working surface of the table |
| Frame | The supporting structure on which all other elements are based. |
| Support element | It is firmly attached to the wall and is one of the supports of the working surface. |
| Legs | Two support legs, structurally interconnected |
| Retainer | An element that is attached to the wall and serves to secure the folding workbench in the folded position |
All these elements are made of solid wood (pine) and plywood.
Pre-production
Before you start making a folding workbench with your own hands, you need to plan and prepare everything necessary tools and materials.
Tools and machines
During the production process, the following tools and devices will be required:
- or ;
- Miter saw;
- Drill or ;
- Level;
- Hand tools (screwdriver, hammer, etc.).
Materials and accessories
During the production process the following materials and components will be required:
- 15-30mm thick (as an option or as a last resort);
- Beam (pine) 80x40;
- Piano loop;
- M10 bolts with nuts and washers (alternatively, you can use a hairpin);
- Self-tapping screws.
The process of making a carpentry workbench with your own hands
We will divide the entire production process into a number of simple technological operations.
Making a countertop
A sheet of plywood will be used to make the tabletop. There is no point in giving dimensions, since in each specific case the dimensions must be selected individually to suit the needs of the master, the geometry of the room and the work that is planned to be performed at a given workplace. Therefore, we will not give dimensions in this article - it should be clear from the photos and videos general idea and concept.
- Surface evenness. If the tabletop shows signs of deformation and does not have a smooth surface, then work on such homemade workbench will be difficult, to say the least;
- Mechanical strength. The tabletop must be durable, that is, have greater resistance to mechanical loads. Since quite massive objects (machines or large-sized workpieces) can be installed on the desktop, the tabletop must withstand such loads and not deform during operation.
- Surface strength. Surface resistance to external mechanical influences. This is how they are executed on the desktop various works related to the processing of materials, painting, etc., then the presence of a protective layer on the countertop will be an advantage and will protect the surface from wear.
At this stage, the required dimensions of the future tabletop are marked and trimmed along the intended contours.
Frame - the base of the future homemade workbench
The frame is the main load-bearing element of a wooden workbench. It must be durable, since the entire load will fall on it. We recommend making it from solid wood, for example, 40x80mm timber.
The most common wood and less expensive is pine, so it is quite suitable, but if you make the base with a denser material, for example, beech, birch or oak, the strength will increase significantly, although such costs are not justified.
The frame has a “U-shaped” shape. As shown in the workbench photo below.
To fasten the bars together you can use different kinds fasteners, but the simplest and universal method– this is fastening with self-tapping screws at the end. IN in this example method applied secret fastening self-tapping screws.
Yes, with this option the screws are hidden and cannot be seen, but this option is not recommended, since the strength of such a connection is not great. We suggest using it as a fastening with self-tapping screws at the end, and also using additional metal corners installed inside the corner and also on self-tapping screws. In this case, the strength will be sufficient.
In this example, the frame is fastened to the tabletop using self-tapping screws that go “into the edge” (at an angle) of the frame and then into the tabletop. The advantage of this type of fastening is the simplicity and concealment of the screws. However, the quality of the connection suffers here, since there is a possibility of splitting the edge of the frame. It is still recommended to use one of the three fastening methods described below:
- Through holes are made in the tabletop and self-tapping screws pass through the tabletop into the frame. With this option there will be the maximum strength of the structure. The disadvantage is obvious - the heads of the screws will be visible on the tabletop, although, of course, they can be easily recessed and hidden “flush”.
- WITH internal corner Several (6-9 pieces) corners are installed between the tabletop and the frame, which are attached to self-tapping screws. The top surface of the tabletop will not be damaged and the appearance will be neat. However, fastening with self-tapping screws that do not go through the tabletop is not so reliable. Below is a picture of an example of using an inner corner.
Installing the support element
The supporting element is a simple block of the same cross-section as the bars used for the frame (80x40mm), which needs to be attached to the wall and in the future it will be the main support point of the future homemade bench. The installation of the support element depends on the material of the wall to which we are attaching. If the wall is wooden, then it’s difficult to suggest anything better than “planting” it on screws. If the wall is brick or concrete, then you can use dowels or lay anchors, etc. Of course, before installation we will use a level for leveling.
The height must be selected based on the technological tasks for which this workbench is being created. However, it should be noted that according to GOST 13025.3-85 the standard height is considered to be 720–780 mm from the floor level. Typically, office furniture has a height of 750 mm.
Attaching the frame with the tabletop to the supporting element can be done in various ways. The simplest is to use a roller loop. This is what was done in our case (see photo).
In addition to the piano loop, you can use various options movable joints – simple door hinges, “frogs”, furniture hinges etc. It is important to note that their number must be sufficient to withstand the loads that are planned for our DIY folding workbench.
Installing the feet
In addition to the supporting element, our homemade wooden workbench will rest on a couple of legs. They need to be made foldable so that when folded they fold easily and do not stick out. To do this, they need to be bolted to the frame.
Alternatively, in addition to the bolt, you can use a section from a stud, fastening it with nuts on both sides. In order not to add much variety to the list of materials used, the legs can be made from the same 80x40mm block. In order for the legs to fold, they must have curves on one side, which are easiest to do with a jigsaw.
Set the axis of rotation of the leg. It is absolutely clear that if you simply tighten the bot, it will press the leg against the frame and its further rotation will be difficult, so you need to install a couple of washers between the leg and the frame. Or maybe not a pair, but 3 or 4 for better rotation, since when tightening the bolt, the washers will sink into soft wood and to ensure clearance, just a third of the washer is needed.
Thus, you can make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. The design is simple and can and should be modernized by each master to suit himself, his workshop, his technological operations, but this is only the basis that can serve as an idea for the further development of technical thought.
Video
This woodworking bench has a sturdy frame, a durable work surface and plenty of compartments for convenient storage of tools and accessories. You will make the main structure with your own hands in two days, and you will add various useful additions gradually.
Tools for work
To process solid wood and sheet materials you will need the following tools:
- Hacksaw.
- Electric planer.
- Circular saw.
- Grinder machine.
- Drill and drill bits.
- Clamps.
- Screwdriver.
- Pencil.
- Square.
- Roulette.
- Brush.
Carpentry workbench frame
Take smooth pine boards without large knots with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. Dry the raw lumber: the lower the moisture content of the boards, the less likely the structure will warp. The carpentry workbench in question is designed for comfortable work by a craftsman with a height of 170–180 cm. To change the height of the structure, make the legs higher or lower.
Table 1 - list of frame parts
|
Name |
Finish dimensions, mm |
Material |
Quantity |
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Leg detail |
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Lower spacer |
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Upper spacer |
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Cross leg |
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Cover cross member |
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Longitudinal leg |
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Longitudinal drawer |
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Bottom shelf |
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Table top spacer |
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All elements of the base of the carpentry workbench are paired, so mark two parts of the same length on a 150 mm wide board at once.
Saw all the wooden pieces to length, with the exception of the spacers: it’s easier to cut the short ones already planed, and the long ones should be sawed off later “in place.”
Measure the width of the board, subtract the thickness of your circular saw blade and divide the result in half. Set the calculated size on the measuring scale and make sure that the saw blade is perpendicular. Unfold the boards exactly in the middle.
Plan and process parts sandpaper medium grit.
File the bottom spacers and sand the ends. After cleaning the surfaces from dust, apply glue to the small leg and to the end of the leg.
Squeeze the parts together with a clamp, wipe off the squeezed out glue and drill holes with a countersink drill.
Fasten the workpieces with 6.0x70 screws. Prepare the remaining legs of the woodworking bench frame.
Bevel the bottom ends to reduce the likelihood of the wood splitting when the workbench moves.
Prepare the joints connecting the legs with the longitudinal legs for gluing. Fasten the parts with screws, setting a right angle.
Screw all four legs into place.
Place the frame halves and longitudinal drawers on the floor, measure the length of the upper spacers.
File the parts and secure them with glue and screws.
Assemble the top frame of the woodworking bench on a flat surface. Fasten the bars with wood glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drilling guide holes for them.
Collect bottom trim workbench, I use clamps and auxiliary boards for convenience.
Replace the top frame and level the entire structure. Connect the frame parts with screws.
Cut from sheet material 16 mm thick bottom shelf and secure it to the bars
Workbench table top for carpentry work
Use sheets of MDF, chipboard or plywood 16–20 mm thick for the workbench cover. Glue the slabs in two layers and get a tabletop 32–40 mm thick.
Drawing and arrangement of the workbench cover: 1 – edge strips (birch, maple); 2 – working surface (hard fiberboard); 3 – load-bearing board (chipboard, plywood or MDF).
For the countertop, you can take sheets of chipboard left over from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of a wardrobe will do. Take them as a base and add small pieces so that the carpentry workbench lid measures 670x1940 mm.
Place narrow slabs toward the back wall and toward the center of the workbench. Place large sheets in top layer countertops. Glue the cut pieces together.
Fasten the sheets with self-tapping screws, deepening them into the countersunk holes. Trim edges manually circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.
Align the tabletop with the frame and secure with screws.
Sharpen slats for edge trims. Saw off the 45° bevels and cut the planks to length. Place a piece of fiberboard on the lid of the workbench, add a flat panel on top and secure it all with clamps.
This makes it easier to attach the pads. Align the ends with the edges of the tabletop and press the rail against the panel - the top plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill pilot holes and secure the parts with screws.
Move the device to the other side and install the remaining pads. Sand the slats with a sander.
Drill a hole in the corner of the slab so that the fiberboard can be easily pushed out of its recess when replacing it.
Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden parts of the frame with stain. Place the fiberboard in the recess of the lid. If you are using pieces of material, secure them with double-sided tape. Place a carpenter's vice on your workbench.
Boxes for storing tools in a carpentry table
When filling the space under the cover of a carpentry workbench, use a modular principle. It’s easier to make individual blocks and more convenient to change them later when you need space for a new tool. There will be a certain waste of material, but the weight of the workbench will increase and its stability will be enough to work with power tools.
Scheme of organization of storage places: 1 – full extension drawer; 2 – spacious plywood box; 3 – chipboard container; 4 – wide box; 5 – compartment for a portable tool box; 6 – space for cases and workpieces.
Use boxes from old furniture
Select suitable sized drawers from an unnecessary desk or chest of drawers.
Sign wooden elements and carefully separate them. Clean the glue from the spikes and eyes.
Trim the planks to width, removing worn corners and cracked grooves. If the original bottom of the box is flimsy, prepare thicker plywood or fiberboard. Make new grooves on a circular saw.
Assemble the box “dry”, adjust the parts if necessary. Clean the surfaces and glue the structure. Use mounting angles for precise assembly of right angles.
Once the glue has dried, sand the corners and sides of the box, securing it in place for ease of work.
Prepare guide strips and calculate the dimensions of the module.
Calculation of a block for three drawers
File the bottom, top and side panels. Screw the guide rails with screws.
Assemble the panels into a module and test the movement of the drawers. Place the block inside the workbench with supports underneath it.
Drill pilot holes, countersink and tighten the screws. Attach the chipboard to the top beams and to the legs of the workbench.
Install front covers on the drawers. Having marked the location of the housing, secure it with one screw. Insert the drawer into place and adjust the position of the panel. Carefully remove the drawer and tighten the remaining screws.
Secure the remaining linings - the module with wide drawers is ready.
Carpentry table compartment for portable box
The middle module is made to the full height of the bench to enhance the rigidity of the carpentry workbench. For the body, take 16 mm thick chipboard and cut out two sides, a bottom and a lid.
Middle module housing: 1 – frame diagram; 2 – side wall; 3 – lower and upper panels.
Attach the guide strips to the sides, assemble the frame with screws and install it close to the right block.
Prepare the parts for the drawer.
Drawings of box elements: 1 – long wall; 2 – short wall; 3 – bottom; 4 – front trim; 5 – rail.
Use a circular saw to select grooves in the walls, which can be done with a regular disk. Set the cutting depth to 6 mm and the width to 8 mm. Run all four parts through. Move the saw fence 2 mm and make a test cut. Check the groove and adjust the stop if necessary. Run the rest of the workpieces.
Assemble the module and install the rails underneath that protect chipboard edges from chipping and providing a smoother ride.
Secure the front panel with screws and place the drawer in place.
How to make modules with convenient drawers
The design of the housings of these modules is identical to the previous designs. The retractable container placed on roller guides is made taking into account the installation gap, so its width will be smaller internal size housings by 26 mm (for common guides with a thickness of 12 mm).
Module structure and box parts: 1 – assembly diagram; 2 – back and front walls; 3 – front panel; 4 – bottom; 5 – side walls.
Before assembling the case, secure the restrictive wooden slats and metal guides to the sides.
Installation diagram of guides on the walls of the housing.
Secure the finished module under the workbench lid.
To install the drawer rails, unclip the latches and pull out the small rails.
Fasten the parts to the walls. Determine the required distance from the edge to the guide yourself based on the specific design and the 10 mm gap between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.
Pull out the middle rails all the way.
Insert both rails at the same time, holding the middle rails with your fingers. If the drawer is too tight, take it out and try again.
Replace the front trim.
How to make a carpentry workbench drawer from plywood
Saw the box body blanks from 10mm plywood, and for the bottom take a 5mm thick sheet.
Part cutting diagram for two plywood boxes: 1 – front panel; 2 – rear liner; 3 – side wall; 4 – front liner.
Sand the workpieces with a grinder.
Make grooves for the plywood bottom in the side walls, back and front liner. Remove burrs with sandpaper.
Glue and screw together the parts of the front and back walls.
Apply glue to the joints and into the groove.
Assemble the structure using angles and clamps.
Fasten the parts with screws, drilling guide holes.
Assemble the second plywood box with your own hands.
Install a panel on the back wall of the carpentry workbench designed to increase the rigidity of the structure and to accommodate hand tools.
Cover the drawers and cut ends of the particle boards with finishing compound.
Connect power to your homemade workbench and start filling the containers with tools.
Surely, every man in his youth, during labor lessons, more than once had to make some object out of wood, standing for more than one hour at such a device.
And now, having become an adult, and creating beautiful and practical works from wood, you are thinking about purchasing your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is that you shouldn’t spend money, it’s better to spend a little personal time and get a quality “workplace” in return.
So, what is a “carpentry workbench”? It is stable, solid (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of all kinds of products using hand and mechanized tools.
If you are seriously thinking about making a workbench, you should note that there are several types:
Wood or metal?
First of all, before you start creating your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be made of. A wooden base will be appropriate if the intended working area does not take up much space.
The ideal option for the countertop would be laminated chipboard or pressed plywood.. For a stationary sample, a combination of planed wooden planks and metal.
Advice: an old unnecessary table or a high-quality door made of solid canvas will also work well as a base.
It is not advisable to make a workbench from metal, an acceptable compromise would be wooden cover and a frame with metal sheathing.
It is best to use not one or two vices, but as many as possible. Using some, secure without special effort long boards, while others are suitable for attaching small parts.
Dimensions and drawing
Before we start manufacturing, we need to think about its design, dimensions, and purpose. To manufacture parts and assemble the table, you will need to make a drawing. We indicate all the data on it with millimeter accuracy. Next, you will often have to use the drawing in the process of manufacturing individual elements and when assembling the product.
Advice: when drawing up a drawing, focus on the tabletop size of 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.
Tools
What set of tools will the master need:
Of course, the list may vary depending on what material you decide to choose for the base of the workbench, and what design it will be.
Reference: It is extremely important to decide on the height of the workbench at the very beginning. For an experienced master It will be possible to make a device with an adjustable height; others are advised to focus on the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor.
How to do it?
Manufacturing
This process occurs in several stages, the first of which is the base assembly. This is followed by installation of the countertop and installation of all necessary equipment.
We prepare vertical supports and jumpers, drill a through hole in a horizontally located bar. Then screw the nut and washer onto the bolt from the groove side. We install jumpers in the middle of the tabletop (there will be drawers between them), and slats are attached to them. The workbench cover will be bolted in place.
Workbench base – wooden frame(it is recommended to use soft wood for their manufacture: linden or pine), the fastenings of which must meet all the requirements of rigidity and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop in horizontal view a jumper should be placed, and a drawer should be installed along the entire length. They must be secured to safe distance from the floor (50 cm). This extra space can be useful in the future, and you can easily place small shelves or drawers at the bottom of the workbench.
Then we move on to the stage tabletop constructions. This can be done using several boards, but in this case they must be carefully processed, cleared of debris and sawdust. Its dimensions must exceed the width and length of the base. This solution is necessary for your convenience. So work area can be easily cleaned. The tabletop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the workbench being created. Installation of the bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, joints) located in the base.
We cover the working surface we have created with a vice. To do this, we construct a plywood spacer from the wrong side, mark with a pencil or pen where the future holes will be. We drill them and attach the vice with nuts.
When we create the stops, adjust them in height, position them sufficiently long distance from a vice. Such care will ensure guaranteed reliability, and you will be sure that the workpieces will remain on the surface without falling to the floor.
We also construct, they can be mounted on the support of the subsurface space.
Let's start creating drawer guides, which will subsequently serve as storage for all tools and large items. For them we take the back part of the workbench and make recesses.
We nail a couple of transverse bars to the base of the tabletop; grooves must be left for them prematurely. We attach slats horizontally to the jumpers; they will serve for the process of sliding the drawers.
We attach the tabletop to the base with bolts. Using a chisel, we make indentations, drill the indicated places, and then there will be bolts there. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injuries, so they are securely hidden in the countertop.
Assembly
A certain number of vices will need to be attached to the structure. Openings are prepared in advance for them, under which they are subsequently fixed. small size plywood gaskets.
Be careful, place the vice at the same level to prevent destruction of the workbench.
We place the attachment points, after which we can start attaching the tools. Hardware is perfect for this.
Important: It is under no circumstances recommended to place the vice close to the corners of your table, otherwise there is a risk of the tool falling off.
It is easy to make supporting elements with your own hands. To do this, simply fix ready-made stops, or drill small openings of a certain size.
Attention: It is not advisable to use bolts as stops; they can damage parts, and dowels are unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as ideal and reliable fasteners. Secure the block to the end of the workbench.
Take into account the fact that quite heavy and massive things will subsequently be placed on the countertop, such as:
- wooden clamps;
- turning equipment;
- milling element;
- drill (stationary).
Therefore, it is so important to make sure that the fastenings are reliable and to think through all the options for convenience, so that you do not have to regret the location of certain devices in the future.
Finishing
The finished product can be tidied up using a grinder. After that, cover the entire surface of the desktop with drying oil as a protective and primer layer for paint. This way you will protect yourself from getting splinters and reduce the risk of injury.
Finally, you screw the corners (with bolts) at the base.
It would be more correct to install such a structure in an area of natural light, that is, near a window. Take care of additional lighting of the workplace, also do not forget that there should be sockets next to the workbench; in such a situation, an extension cord can “save” you. The most comfortable time spent at a workbench will be if the table is not too high and the light falls from the left or from above.
Photo
Creating furniture is an individual process. You may well end up with something beautiful and convenient:
Useful video
The step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:
Conclusion
Once it appears on the farm, it will become an indispensable assistant and over time, you will see this for yourself. Firstly, a do-it-yourself workbench is a significant savings Money. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you will always have at hand comfortable table, on which you can create interesting and useful household items.
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Most home craftsmen, who comprise the bulk of subscribers and visitors to our site, have, to one degree or another, already solved the problem of organizing their workplace by arranging comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.
But there are also those who are looking closely at home handicrafts and are trying out this universal profession, which includes many specialties and is becoming a very useful hobby for the family.
First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful for those who have already found themselves in the role of a DIYer and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently set about arranging a home workbench for the workshop with their own hands.
Types of workbenches for the workshop
A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized processing work different materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. Based on the type of materials processed, workbenches are divided into:
- carpentry;
- metalwork;
- combined.
Based design features, the following types are added to them:
- universal;
- folding.
Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with different lists of functions, and distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you have experience home handyman convert into banknotes outside your apartment or the yard of your house, you can either choose a factory-made universal folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.
But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable and here there are three options:
- carpentry workbench with the ability to perform a number of metalwork operations;
- a metalworking workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
- combined workbench.
Let us immediately note that last option is not the best solution, since it does not allow for full high-quality performance of both carpentry and plumbing types of work, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in examples for self-production.
Making a simple DIY garage workbench
The simplest workbench for a home workshop will be a fairly powerful table with a small set of additional functions: drawers, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanent.
It’s good if it is possible to slightly transform it to perform work on metal or wood, but more on that below.
To create such a workbench we will take wooden blocks 40x80 and cut out 4 legs: 2 pcs. 700 mm long, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower jumpers 500 mm long. For the 2 upper jumpers of the same length, we used a 40x100 block available on the farm.
It will also be used for the top trim of the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm at the bottom and 1600 mm at the top. And at the back we use edged board 40x150x1600, but we will need all the long pieces later.
If you have a tenoning tool, use it like we did.
If not, make them by hand or you can butt the pieces together using overhead metal fasteners.
Assemble the side posts as shown in the photo below.
After this, you can begin assembling the entire frame.
The central jumper inside the frame, made from the same 40x80 block, mounted on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, serves as a stop for two bedside tables with drawers from the old ones desks, which we decided to use in our workbench.
For the working surface of the workbench we also used our existing laminated surface from fiberboard. We screwed a board to the front edge on metal plates, which will protect its edge from peeling during use. It will also serve as the basis for attaching a small bench vice with a clamp.
We attached the working surface to the bed using metal corners and got a fairly powerful general-purpose workbench for our home workshop.
Manufacturing of a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing metalwork work
If you primarily work with wood, then the logical thing to do would be to build a woodworking bench and make some modifications to the design for metalworking operations.
A traditional carpentry workbench for a workshop has a design that has been proven over centuries, which has undergone virtually no significant changes until the present day. Its basis is a massive frame with tenon joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often stacked) tabletop with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vice-clamps for fastening workpieces.
The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on maximum length workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are planning to make your own wooden doors, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m and the width at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. The workbench of my grandfather - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that to make large frames for verandas he was missing 20 centimeters in width.
The dimensions of the school carpentry workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the plan dimensions suit you and you are willing to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of appropriate sizes to the legs. But you can also consider alternative options.
Strictly speaking, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for the workshop with different materials for the table top, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and different vice mechanisms. Now in order:
1. We make the bed from dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height to suit your height. If your workbench will be installed in a room where there are no sudden changes in humidity, then its elements can be connected in any convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.
2. The tabletop can be made from ready-made glued wooden shields, sold in most construction supermarkets, or glue them together from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm yourself using PVA glue, constructing a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the tabletop, but it is still advisable to paste over its ends wooden slats made of oak, beech or ash.
3. To fasten the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the workbench tabletop is extended with bars of appropriate sizes. The most popular are these clamping fixtures:
— carpentry lead screw with two guides made in Czech Republic Tr 24*5, 390/205 at a price of about 3 thousand rubles.
Spanish Piher carpentry vice, 150 mm, costing approx. 2 thousand rubles;
You can also make something similar yourself, using a pin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which, of course, will not transfer the same forces as a vice, but will make your clamp extremely economical and repairable, due to its low cost;
Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same pins, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 of these clamps on one vice.
4. Make holes for stop pegs in two directions opposite the vice lead screw. It is also useful to make them across the entire surface of the tabletop parallel to each other for secure fastening of large products.
5. Attach the workbench tabletop to the base using strong metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, use them to secure it to the floor.
And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench version described in this section of the article.
Now, several options for devices for performing metalwork work on such a workbench.
- The simplest of them is to make a plate of steel 3 - 5 mm thick with a frame of steel angle, kept separately from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered onto the tabletop if necessary.
- The main attribute of a metalworking workbench is a metalworking vice. In this case, we recommend using a vice with fasteners that do not require going through the workbench top.
You can, of course, adjust the holes for the stops to fit the vice fasteners, but with a thick pad you can do without it. Also interesting is the option of attaching a bench vice directly to the table top of a carpenter's workbench using an adapter bar-stand and a powerful clamp.
And the overlay should not cover the entire area of the workbench. There are a lot of options, the choice is yours.
Modification of a metalwork bench for carpentry work
Often, especially if the household has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a metalworker’s.
We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but about simple ways We’ll tell you how to adapt it for carpentry work, especially since it’s not at all difficult. To fully use your bench as a carpenter's bench, you will need to dismantle the bench vice and make several simple devices.
Let's take a closer look at them.
1. From the first picture below, when modifying a bench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the dowels (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a solid removable structure) and a suitable wedge, we get a simple and reliable device attaching the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden plate secured with recessed clamps, with the entire set of workpiece fastenings shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise by its thickness, which can be compensated for by the corresponding height with a ladder at the workbench.
There is nothing to say about the back stop; it simply performs a supporting function for long workpieces.
2. You can make an overhead planing board with a universal stop, shown in the second picture. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the bar being processed) and screwing the bar from the bottom to the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns a metalworker's workbench into a carpenter's workbench.
3. A slightly more complex overlay with a fairly powerful option for securing the workpiece also allows you to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is to also screw the stop on the right side and choose a thickness of at least 50-70 mm for more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.
The method of installing the last two planing devices on the workbench is shown in the diagram:
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