While putting things in order in a pile of electronic junk, I found the remains of tape recorders. A 9-volt power supply, which has a well-recognized shape and was made back in the USSR, those who lived at that time and owned an Electronics or IZh tape recorder will understand perfectly what we are talking about. And also an old electric motor, also from some kind of tape recorder. It turned out that the block and motor still work perfectly together, nothing is rusty or stuck.
In general, I decided to try to assemble a mini lathe from all this, especially since I always wanted to have a small and quiet machine on hand for processing all sorts of small things. You can, of course, collect or buy gadgets (holders) that turn a regular drill into the machine, but such drills are usually very noisy due to all sorts of gearboxes rumbling in them.
In principle, I have a superficial understanding of the structure of a lathe; at first glance, everything seems simple. The only thing that was confusing was how to place the electric motor and tailstock on the same axis. And also, what errors are allowed in this case, because I didn’t want to get a vibrator for a vibrating table or a mobile phone instead of a lathe.
That same old power supply, for our time it is of course huge, but for a test run this is not so important.
I cut out a casing for the engine with metal scissors, drilled and bored out holes for the motor in it, then bent it in the shape of the letter “Py” and then installed the engine in it. I selected pieces of wood of the appropriate size for the base of the machine. Since my machine will be purely experimental, that is, assembled on my knees and from improvised means. He decided to first assemble a rough model, and if it worked as it should, then it would be possible to bring it to mind.
I screwed the base for the motor and the back wall onto self-tapping screws, so that I could later screw the casing with the electric motor to them.
I remade the ends of the casing a little (I bent them inward)
I drilled and screwed the casing with the motor to the rear wall and to the base with self-tapping screws.
I cut out a lid from cardboard and placed it on a couple of screws on top.
This is how it all looks now, in my opinion, in turning terminology, this thing is called “Frontstock”
I sawed squares from the same board, coated them with PVA glue and pulled them into a stack. This cube will serve as the tailstock of my homemade lathe.
I screwed this cube onto four self-tapping screws, a pair on top and a pair on the bottom.
If there was a drill chuck on the motor shaft, then a drill could be clamped into it and it would indicate the direction for the holder in the tailstock. And since I have some kind of brass pulley mounted on the shaft for the tape recorder, I had to go a slightly different route. I just took a sheet of paper and stupidly wrapped it around this pulley, fixed the ends and turned on the motor.
Having made sure that the opposite end of this tube rotates near the cube without run-up or beating, I turned off the motor and outlined the contours of the tube on the cube.
I drew the axis of the tube on the side planes of the cube by eye, so that when drilling a hole for the holder, I could guide the drill along these lines.
Also by eye, I brought these lines together opposite side tailstock.
Then I drilled this cube and screwed in a self-tapping screw, which will act as a workpiece holder.
I missed it a little, but this is not so important, since in this way it is impossible to achieve perfect accuracy. But since this is only an experiment, we move on and close our eyes to all the mistakes and inaccuracies. :-)
We clamp the workpiece and turn on the motor, bending our head slightly to the side, in case this blank wants to explore the vastness of the universe. :-) To prevent the holder from drilling out the workpiece, I ground off a little thread from its tip.
I put a piece of elastic on the pulley itself and then stupidly glued the blank to it with hot glue. Thus removing headache about searching for a suitable cartridge or holder. And besides, for some reason it seemed that the flexible connection slightly compensates for the curvature of the axis on which the motor and holder are located, and at the same time the curvature of my hands. :-)
Oddly enough, everything worked like clockwork, the motor is certainly weak, but it copes with its mini-tasks with a bang.
I tried a bunch of different cutters, but most of all I liked processing pieces of wood with a regular metal blade and sandpaper. Apparently due to the lack of a tool or a weak motor, all other tools immediately bite into the workpiece and stop the motor.
I tried to sharpen a tin rod, or rather a lead-tin rod (solder). Here it was already possible to process the workpiece well with a cutter made from an ordinary needle file, sharpened at the end.
These blanks were also placed on glue. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is the heating of the rod during processing. But since the cutter removes very little, I was never able to heat it to such an extent that the rod would come unstuck from the rubber cushion.
Here I tried to sharpen a prototype for casting shells for this tiger. But later it turned out that his native shells have a more wretched and primitive appearance. And what I carved was more suitable for a royal tiger, so the idea was abandoned.
A little bit of a lousy video of him buzzing.
In general, that’s all, the machine turned out to be relatively silent, small, only 23 cm long, but the main thing is that it was assembled with your own hands and, moreover, it works. Basically I expected big problems when assembling a lathe, but as it turned out, the machine assembled on the knee works great. Perhaps this is due to the scale; if the dimensions of the machine were larger, and the part was clamped tightly (into the drill chuck), then there would definitely be more adventures.
By the way, it’s very easy to turn this lathe into a mini emery machine. You just need to glue a cutting disc from a Dremel onto the pillow and as a result you get a mini emery. This sandpaper helped me a lot when I needed to grind 70 plaster castings for this model of the Tiger tank. Of course, it is almost impossible to center it by eye, unless you grind down the disk itself. But at high speeds the beating is almost unnoticeable, and besides, it is reinforced, so you don’t have to worry about it breaking and something bouncing into your eye. But in any case, no one has yet canceled safety precautions when working with sandpaper. Therefore, we keep our head away from the expected trajectory of the flight of disk fragments or work with glasses.
I recently built my own 3D printer and the first serious printout on it was a mini drilling machine for hobby and modeling (), because I always dreamed of a silent mini drill. Actually, a 3D printer is quite useful thing, with its help you can create cases, brackets and other odds and ends without much effort, and thereby somewhat expand the fleet of various mini-machines for hobby, and this lathe can be brought into divine shape.
Manufacturing of metal products is a progressive business that has no competition in the market. It is not surprising that more and more people are studying the technology of creating parts of varying complexity, but such work requires a lathe. Although installation industrial type safe, reliable and easy to use, not everyone can buy it. Therefore, many people assemble the machine themselves. This requires appropriate instructions, materials and a little patience.
Advantages of self-assembly of the machine
IN household a lathe is an irreplaceable thing. Of course, it is better to buy an industrial unit that will be reliable and durable, but this is an expensive thing. In addition, the industrial installation is bulky and cannot be placed in a residential area.
Assembly machine is a good option for saving money and space. It will not be as functional, but will do an excellent job of processing metal parts, cutting threads, rolling corrugated surfaces and creating the necessary geometric shape.
Even a novice in turning can master such a device. Easy controls allow you to manage metal parts without outside help and constant questions. The minimum dimensions allow such a unit to fit on a small table, and the materials from which it is assembled can be easily replaced with new ones in case of breakdown.
Homemade assembly expands the choice of installation type and makes it multifunctional in terms of processing various materials
. Some machines are suitable for processing wood, while others are better at processing metal material of varying qualities. At this stage, it is important to decide on your preferences and the purposes for which it will be used.
Design and principle of operation
Before you start assembling a homemade lathe, you should study the simplest installation. The connection of various components and the working mechanism will give more understanding during assembly and during operation. In addition, there will be something to rest on in the event of deformation or breakage of the homemade installation.
The main parts of the mechanism include:
- frame;
- slave and leading center;
- electric drive;
- two grandmothers;
- stop for cutting tool;
- a vise or similar device for holding material.
Industrial units They differ slightly in design, but some parts are easy to replace with analogues. For example, the bed acts as a place for attaching the main mechanism. Usually this is a large metal case, but in the case self-assembly a strong frame is used small sizes. The tailstock moves along the frame or, as is commonly called in the lathe industry, the “base.” The headstock is installed to accommodate the main equipment unit and is secured in a stationary position.
The transfer center should be addressed Special attention, because it connects the driving center with the electric motor. Usually it is in this part that the main breakdowns lie. Through this part, the voltage required to rotate the workpiece is transmitted.
Assembling a homemade turning equipment involves the use of high-quality and durable materials. A metal base, corners and profiles made of durable steel are better suited for the frame. This will allow you to securely fix the installation centers. Some experts prefer a wooden frame, but this material is more suitable for devices with low power and performance. Otherwise, the wood will quickly deform and the fixed center will move.
Placed on a lathe motors power from 200 watts and more. The weakest are able to cope with wood processing, but no more. It is from these criteria that one should proceed, because the motor directly affects the power and productivity of the machine. The more powerful the motor, the faster and more accurately it can process parts. To process metal parts, you should install a powerful and reliable motor.
The last thing to pay attention to is the rotation method. Homemade machines use a chain or belt design. The latter option is used more often because of its reliability and ease of replacing a worn belt. In addition, the torque when using belts is better and more uniform than when using chains.
Exist models and without transmission part. Typically, this design is built so that the driving center is attached directly to the electric motor shaft. Various schemes, video assembly of a metal lathe will help in this difficult task.
Features of machine assembly
One of the features of the installation assembly is the suppression of vibration, which is caused by the operation of the motor. To absorb it, a leading and driven center is installed, but the mechanism can be changed. The idea is to use one driving center, but add a jaw chuck or faceplate.
With electric motor It's not that simple either. Many years of practice show that it is best to refuse to choose a commutator type of electric motor. The reason is simple. The engine operates in such a way that the torque increases in the absence of load, even without a command from the turner. At a certain point, the mechanism and design of the machine simply cannot withstand the load, and the parts and workpiece fly off in different directions.
Such “fire” with metal parts will greatly harm the environment in an apartment or house, not to mention the injuries that can be caused to a person during work. If you plan to install a commutator type of motor, you must take care in advance of a special gearbox that will prevent uncontrolled acceleration.
The best option among electric drives is asynchronous type. The advantage of this system is that it is resistant to loads and does not change the rotation speed without control. This significantly reduces the risk of machine deformation. In addition, its power is enough to process parts about 70 cm wide and up to 10 cm in length. For some materials, such power will be unnecessary, so the electric motor is selected exclusively for the material and size of the parts that will be processed. How more complex figures, cutouts and threads, the faster the rotational effect should be.
The driven center, as already noted, must be stationary, but there are cases when it is made rotating. Best result this will not work, but you will have to replace it regularly. Typically, when it comes to self-assembled machines, the driven center is made of a metal bolt, the threaded section of which is sharpened to a cone. Next, the prepared part is installed in a thread pre-cut on the tailstock. Its stroke is 2-3 cm. This installation allows you to press the workpiece between two centers of the lathe.
Selection of power equipment
- this is one of the main parts in the machine, which, in principle, starts the work process. The processing of parts depends on the power of the electric motor. There are two categories of electric motors that are suitable for installation on the machine:
- for working with small parts with a power of 500 to 1000 watts;
- for working with large workpieces with a power of 1500 to 2000 watts.
Naturally this symbols, and not only the size of the workpiece plays a role, but also its brand. Carbide products require high impact power to produce the final product.
A homemade lathe does not necessarily have to be powerful electric motor, because many people process wood or assemble a simple grinding machine. In this case, even electric motors are suitable sewing machine. The drive is simply mounted on the unit, and then the hollow shaft and belt or chain drive are connected. A shaft is connected to a pulley, which is secured to a key. The pulley is necessary, because the workpiece will be installed on it for further processing.
The shaft allows you to make the machine multifunctional thanks to various transitions. Some install a sanding disc, others are suitable for drill bits. Everything can be easily replaced depending on the purpose of processing the blanks.
Power mechanisms They are easy to connect to the installation, but if you do not have the necessary skills and experience, it is better to invite a specialist. This provides reliability and electrical safety, because electricity will flow to the unit, which is made of metal. When working with it, even a minor error in installing the electric motor can lead to electric shock.
Build process
The simplest lathe that you can easily make with your own hands is a bow lathe. It is suitable for processing metal workpieces of low strength grade. That is, the products are sharpened, the structure is turned. Particularly popular are sharpening knives, making keys and creating parts for passenger cars.
For assembly unit will need:
- welding (if necessary);
- wooden or metal material for frame;
- electric drive;
- beams.
To begin work, you will need to prepare two simple wooden racks to which the bolts will be attached. The machine frame is attached to the bolts. The frame is often made of wood, but more reliable material- this is graded metal or steel channels. The metal construction is durable and reliably holds the mechanism in place without moving it during operation.
Next step- this is the production of a tool rest responsible for the stability of the cutter when working with metal products. It’s easy to make such a handy yourself. All that is needed is to glue two planks at right angles and connect the resulting structure with screws. On bottom part a thin metal plate is installed on the tool rest, which will prevent the working tool from changing its shape during rotation. Depending on the frequency of operation of the machine, the metal plate will need to be replaced when it becomes deformed. A board that stands horizontally is needed to control the movements of the tool rest. A slot is made in it.
There should be no issues with the manufacture of the tailstock and headstock. These are simple parts that even a beginner can make. In any case, the Internet is a large number of all kinds of videos and instructions that clearly show how exactly the headstocks are made and what material is best to choose for this. The chucks for the headstocks are made from ready-made cylinders that are suitable in cross-section to the design of the machine. Sometimes cartridges are made independently by welding several sheets of iron.
Assembling a mini metal lathe yourself is not at all difficult. Basically, you should be patient and study videos and literature that describe the assembly features in detail home machine. In this work, the main thing is not to rush, select durable material and follow safety precautions. In moments when there is a lack of knowledge, and especially when it comes to installing an electric drive, it is better to turn to specialists. All other stages of assembling a lathe are easy to handle, even if you have no experience in this matter.
Do-it-yourself homemade metal lathe: drawings, photos,
Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make their own metal lathe. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be very inexpensive, you can effectively perform a large range of turning operations, giving metal workpieces the required dimensions and shape. It would seem much easier to purchase a simple tabletop machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.
A homemade lathe is quite possible
Using a lathe
Lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts from different materials, including from metal, allows you to manufacture products various forms and sizes. Using such a unit, you can turn the external and internal surfaces of the workpiece, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut external or internal threads, and perform knurling to give the surface of the product the desired relief.
A serial metal lathe is a large device, which is not so easy to operate, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. Using such a unit as a desktop equipment is not easy, so it makes sense to make a lathe for your home workshop yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.
Such equipment processes parts that have round section: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter securely fixed in the machine support.
Grooving a brake disc on a homemade lathe
Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires clear coordination of the movements of all working parts so that processing is carried out with extreme precision and best quality execution.
An example of a homemade lathe with drawings
Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for the assembled on our own lathe, the fairly high quality of which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device was successfully manufactured.
Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business; often simpler structures are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas This machine fits perfectly.
DIY lathe
Structural units
Any lathe, including a homemade one, consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - a bed, two centers - a drive and a driven, two headstocks - front and rear, a spindle, a support, a drive unit - an electric motor.
Design of a small-sized metal lathe
All elements of the device are placed on the bed; it is the main load-bearing element of the lathe. The headstock is a stationary structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.
It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece being processed receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front one, can move parallel to the direction of processing; it is used to fix the free end of the workpiece being processed.
Simple scheme knots of a homemade woodworking machine will suggest a simple option for making a bed, headstock and tailstock
A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even not very high power, but such a motor can overheat when processing large workpieces, which will lead to its shutdown and, possibly, failure.
Typically, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 W.
Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.
Mini-lathes, which are equipped in home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the electric motor shaft.
Direct drive machine
There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, driving and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for frontal-type models: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is resolved using a jaw chuck or faceplate.
In fact, you can make a lathe with your own hands with a wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. High rigidity of the lathe frame is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven centers is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and the support with the tool moved freely along the axis of the unit.
The use of channels in the manufacture of the frame and headstock of the machine
When assembling a metal lathe, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. The dimensions of your mini-machine and what structural elements it will consist of will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will depend on these parameters, as well as on the size of the planned load on the unit.
Option for bed, headstock and drive
To equip metal lathes, it is not recommended to choose commutator electric motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of shaft revolutions of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increases sharply as the load decreases, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.
Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, the lathe must be equipped with a gearbox that will prevent an uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.
Asynchronous three-phase electric motor connected to a 220 Volt network through a capacitor
It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units that will process metal workpieces up to 70 cm in length and up to 10 cm in diameter, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a power of 800 W or more. Engines of this type are characterized by stable rotation speed when there is a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably.
If you are going to make your own mini-machine for metal turning, then you should definitely take into account the fact that its chuck will be affected not only by transverse but also longitudinal loads. Such loads, if a belt drive is not provided, can cause destruction of the electric motor bearings, which are not designed for them.
If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the electric motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the electric motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.
The tailstock of the lathe houses its driven center, which can be stationary or freely rotating. The simplest design has a fixed center: it is easy to make on the basis of a regular bolt, sharpening and grinding the part that will come into contact with the workpiece to a cone. By screwing or unscrewing such a bolt moving along threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. This fixation is also ensured by moving the tailstock itself.
In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.
Homemade tailstock for benchtop lathe
Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes from which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is not difficult to find various ones that demonstrate the process of their manufacture. This could be a mini CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor input produce metal products of various configurations.
The stands of a simple metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the unit frame using bolted connections. If possible, it is better to make the frame itself from metal corners or channels, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also choose thick ones wooden blocks.
Below is the process of making your own lathe support.
The unit on such a machine on which the cutting tool will be fixed and moved will be a tool rest, made of two wooden planks, connected at an angle of 90 degrees. On the surface of the board where the tool will be placed, it is necessary to fix a sheet of metal that will protect the wood from deformation and ensure the exact location of the cutter in relation to the workpiece. IN supporting surface For a horizontal board moving along the frame of the unit, it is necessary to make a slot, due to which such movement will be quite accurate.
To make the headstock and tailstock of your homemade lathe, you will need to select metal cylinders of the appropriate size, which are placed in bearing units installed in wooden racks. The rotation performed by the workpiece will be transmitted to it through the front center, connected by a belt drive to the electric motor. Thus, the workpiece, securely fixed between the front and rear centers, is processed using a cutter installed in the equipment tool rest.
Another version of a homemade machine (click to enlarge)
There should be no problems finding an electric motor that should be equipped with a mini-lathe. Even if you were unable to find a motor of the required power (500–1000 W for processing small parts, 1500–2000 W for large-sized workpieces), then a previously used unit previously installed on a household sewing machine will be quite suitable. In addition, it is permissible to use electric drills or grinding machines.
As a result of such simple manipulations, you will have at your disposal a machine capable of performing the most common metal turning operations. If desired, the unit can be modernized by expanding it functionality. Of course, it is difficult to make a CNC machine from such a device, but it is quite possible to perform boring, drilling, grinding, threading and a number of other technological operations on metal.
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Do-it-yourself homemade metal lathe: manufacturing and operation
A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. Professional equipment It is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a homemade metal lathe with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and the drawings similar product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for production, but the size of the machine can be any.
The professional lathe has high cost, so it makes sense to make such a device yourself
- 1 Components of a mini metal lathe with your own hands
- 1.1 Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make it from scrap materials
- 2 Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure
- 3 Selecting an electric motor for the machine
- 4 Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands
- 5 Features of do-it-yourself metal lathes, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes
- 6 Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
- 7 Options for upgrading a homemade lathe
Components of a mini metal lathe with your own hands
Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:
- drive is the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Selecting a drive with the required power is one of the most difficult tasks. In small do-it-yourself metal lathes, you can use a drive from a conventional washing machine or drill. Typically, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute starts from 1500;
- bed - a supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden blocks or steel angles. The frame must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the entire structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;
Projection and main components of a metal lathe
- tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel angle welded to it. The plate rests against the guides of the bed, and the main purpose of the tailstock of a do-it-yourself lathe is to fix the metal part during processing;
- headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
- master and slave centers;
- caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.
Torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Some people prefer to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and allows you to save on spare parts. If this option is not possible, torque can be transmitted using friction, belt or chain transmission. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Belt drive for an electric motor is the cheapest and is characterized by a fairly high level of reliability. To make it, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed more often the more intensely you work with the machine.
The design of the headstock and tailstock of a lathe. Front headstock (left): 1 - V-belt; 2 - two-stage pulley; 3 - spindle; 4 - ball bearing. Tailstock (right): 1 - body; 2 - center; 3, 6 - handles; 4 - quill; 5, 12, 14 - screws; 7 - flywheel; 8 - traction; 9, 10 - levers; 13 - nut
Chain transmission It costs more and takes up more space, but it will also last much longer than a belt one. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.
Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make it from scrap materials
The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part, as well as the amount of time and effort you will spend on its manufacture, depends on it. This part is located on a special slide, which moves along guides located on the frame. The caliper can move in three directions:
- longitudinal – working part The machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal movement is used to turn threads into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;
DIY metal lathe
- transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
- inclined - movement at different angles to grind recesses on the surface of the workpiece.
When making a lathe support with your own hands, it is worth considering the fact that this part is subject to wear as a result of vibrations that occur during operation. Because of them, the fasteners become loose, play occurs, and all this affects the quality of the manufactured part. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.
Adjustment of a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands is carried out according to gaps, play and seals. Adjusting the gaps is necessary when the screw responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes has worn out. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under load, which significantly reduces the accuracy of the part. Gaps can be eliminated by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The play of the part is eliminated using a fixing screw.
If the oil seals in your machine are worn out, they should be thoroughly washed and soaked in fresh machine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the oil seals with new ones.
Caliper structure: 1 - caliper carriage; 2 - lead screw; 3 - transverse slide of the caliper; 4 - rotating part of the caliper; 5 - guides of the rotating part; 6 - tool holder; 7 - screw for securing the tool holder; 8 - screws for fastening the cutters; 9 - handle for turning the tool holder; 10 - nuts; 11 - upper part of the caliper; 12 - transverse guides of the carriage; 13 - handle for moving the upper part of the caliper; 14 - handle for moving the cross slide; 15 - handle for turning on the feed of the caliper from the lead screw; 16 - handwheel for longitudinal movement of the caliper; 17 - apron
Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure
The mechanism is assembled in the following order:
In addition, from the do-it-yourself drawings of a metal lathe, it can be seen that to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, a tool rest is made, and a thin strip of metal is fixed to the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.
Construction of a homemade lathe for metal processing: 1, 7 - channels; 2 - running pipe; 3 - tailstock; 4 - tray for collecting chips; 5 - caliper; 6 - lead screw; 8 - electric motor; 9 - fixed headstock; 10 - lamp in a protective cap-reflector; 11 - mesh screen to protect the turner from chips; 12 - support
Selecting an electric motor for the machine
The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, a video of the making of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is selected depending on the size of the metal workpieces you plan to work with.
If you plan to work on a machine with small parts, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from the old one sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large spare parts you will need a motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW.
When assembling a homemade metal lathe according to ready-made drawings, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be reliably insulated. If you do not have the necessary experience working with electrical equipment, it is better to seek help with connection from a specialist. This way you will be confident in the safety of operation and the reliability of the design.
An asynchronous motor is the best option for a homemade lathe
Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands
If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a regular electric drill as a drive. This design solution has a number of advantages:
Of course there is also negative sides at a lathe from a drill. How can processing of large parts be possible using this tool? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively low torque and a high number of revolutions. Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will significantly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.
Diagram of the device of a homemade lathe based on a drill: 1 - fastening to a table or workbench; 2 - front support; 3 - support for the workpiece; 4 - rear support
Making a homemade tabletop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only need to turn small parts.
To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you will need the same parts as for conventional design excluding the electric motor and headstock. The role of the latter is also played by a drill. Given the compact design, a regular table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is secured to the structure using a clamp and clamp.
Using a homemade lathe, you can not only turn parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire on a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of the part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, you can use it to quickly and effortlessly produce small identical parts.
Drawing of the front support, inside which the drill is fixed
Features of do-it-yourself metal lathes, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes
Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be taken into account during assembly and operation. For example, when working with large parts or when using a powerful electric motor, strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors when processing the part. To get rid of vibrations, the driving and driven centers of the machine must be installed on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the leading center, a cam mechanism must be attached to it.
It is not recommended to install a commutator motor in do-it-yourself metal lathes. It is prone to a spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to flyout of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work-related injuries or property damage. If without installation commutator motor There’s no way around it; a gearbox must be installed with it to reduce the speed.
The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is asynchronous. It does not increase the speed of rotation during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal workpieces with a width of up to 100 mm.
The most important thing when working on a lathe is compliance with safety precautions.
Rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common mistakes during assembly, but also save time and effort due to the clarity of the material.
Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its functionality. The spindle should rotate easily and without hesitation, with the front and rear centers aligned on a common axis. The center of symmetry of the rotating part must coincide with the axis of its rotation.
Any video of a do-it-yourself lathe shows that after installing the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the machine operator, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.
An example of a metal lathe, assembled by yourself
You should also adhere to the following safety rules:
Options for upgrading a homemade lathe
If you need a machine that can not only turn, but also sand and paint the workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for a design based on an electric drill, since it is easiest to replace the working part.
The lathe can be multifunctional device in the workshop, with the help of which you can perform various tasks, including household ones: sharpening knives, scissors, etc.
There are several popular modifications of a metal lathe. How to make a cone-shaped hole? To do this, you need to attach two files to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After this, a spring mechanism is mounted, which ensures that the files are fed forward and at an angle, which allows you to drill cone-shaped holes into the part.
In addition, to work with metal parts of different lengths, you can make a machine with a collapsible base. Using several boards or metal corners, you can move the working tool closer or further to the fasteners holding the part, and also change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design on the basis of a regular table or workbench.
If attached to an electric motor as a working tool grinding wheel, using the machine you can not only polish the surface of a part, but also sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.
Creating a lathe with your own hands will allow you to obtain equipment that is optimally suited to the needs of the owner
Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, the structure can be assembled literally from scrap parts, using old household appliances and waste from installation and construction production.
The main advantage of self-assembly is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. A homemade machine can be not only large, but also very miniature, designed for processing small parts.
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How to assemble a metal lathe with your own hands
A lathe is necessary for the production and processing of metal parts. Factory devices cost a lot of money. That is why, for greater savings, it is worth making a lathe with a cutter to process iron with your own hands. You can quickly assemble it using several methods, and it’s worth searching for high-quality drawings and videos online. Any available materials can be used for assembly, and the dimensions of the machine depend on production needs.
Basic components of a small lathe
A lathe, made with high quality by hand, always consists of the following parts:
The torque from the electric motor to the working part of the device can be transmitted by several methods. Some people directly place the working part on the axis of the electric motor. This method will help save space and the number of spare parts for the machine. When this method cannot be implemented, then the torque should be transmitted using different types transmission Each of these methods has advantages and disadvantages.
The belt drive for the engine is considered the cheapest and has good reliability. To do this, you need to use a belt for the engine, which was removed from another product. The main disadvantage of a belt drive is that after some time the belt wears out and will need to be replaced. The frequency of replacement depends on the intensity of the machine.
Chain drives often take up a lot of space and are very expensive. Its service life is significantly longer than that of a belt mechanism. And the friction transmission has average characteristics, in contrast to the chain and belt mechanism.
A good support for a do-it-yourself metal lathe: drawings
The caliper can be considered the most important detail a machine assembled with your own hands, because it is this that influences the quality of the processed product, the amount of effort and the length of time spent on its manufacture. Such a part is placed on a specialized slide, which moves along guides installed on the frame of the device. The support is capable of moving in the following directions:
- Longitudinally, when the entire working part of the device and the cutter moves along the workpiece. This movement is used to make threads in a workpiece or when removing a small layer from the surface of a metal product.
- Transverse, when the movement of the cutter occurs perpendicular to the working axis of the workpiece. This movement is used for precise turning of holes and various recesses.
- Obliquely, when the cutter moves at different angles. This motion is often used to make small recesses in the workpiece.
When making a support for a small homemade machine, you need to take into account the fact that this part is subject to wear due to strong vibration during operation. As a result, the fasteners often become loose and play appears between them, which affects the quality of the workpiece being processed. To avoid such problems, the caliper must be adjusted and tuned frequently.
Adjustment of the support of a small machine tool is carried out based on play, clearances and several seals. Such work must be done when there is wear on the screw, which is responsible for the movement of the part in the transverse as well as in the longitudinal plane. Due to high friction, the caliper can become loose under heavy loads, and this reduces the accuracy of machining the workpiece. It is necessary to eliminate backlash by installing wedges between the carriage and special guides. A small gap in the workpiece can be eliminated using a special securing bolt.
When the oil seals wear out in a homemade machine, they should be washed thoroughly and treated with high-quality lubricant. If there is significant wear, the oil seals must be replaced with new parts.
How to assemble a good mini metal lathe with your own hands
Manufacturing good machine To process iron with your own hands, it is always done in this order:
And also from numerous drawings it is clear that in order to increase the stability of the cutter mechanism, you need to make a specialized tool rest, and at the bottom of the product it is worth installing a small iron strip. This strip is necessary for reliable protection working units of the device from damage when processing workpieces.
How to choose a motor for a homemade metal machine
The most important part of a lathe, photos and videos of the assembly of which can be found online, is considered to be the electric motor. With its help, the working part of the product moves. Thus, the maximum power of the machine depends on the power of this part. This indicator must be selected depending on the dimensions of the iron blanks that will be processed in the future.
When you need to process small workpieces on a lathe, an electric motor with maximum power up to 1.4 kilowatts, which can be taken from a simple sewing machine or other electrical device. To work with large workpieces, you need an electric motor with a power of up to 2 kilowatts.
When making a small lathe using videos or drawings, you need to take into account that all electrical components of the device must be well insulated. When not great experience work with such equipment, you should seek help from a qualified specialist. This can ensure the safety of the assembly and the reliability of the device.
How to quickly assemble a homemade metal lathe from a drill
When you need to save on spare parts and simply make it easier to make a device with your own hands, you can use a simple electric drill instead of a drive. This method has the following advantages:
- Manufacturing takes little time because the drill is very simply attached to the machine bed.
- To transport homemade machine very easy, because it is often necessary to work with iron parts outdoors or indoors.
- Big savings because the electric drill not only replaces the motor, but also eliminates the need for a transmission. Additionally, you can use various attachments instead of many types of tools.
There are also some disadvantages to homemade device from a drill. It is quite difficult to process large workpieces using this desktop machine, because the electric drill has a small torque and a large number of revolutions. You can also increase the power of the machine by installing a belt drive. With its help, torque will be transmitted from the electric drill to the shaft. However, this will greatly complicate the device, the advantage of which is considered to be compactness and simplicity.
Assembling a machine using an electric drill is advisable in cases where there is no need to process large parts, but only small workpieces are turned.
To assemble such a product, you will need the same parts as for the standard model with the exception of the headstock and engine. The drill will replace the electric motor. Due to the compactness of the machine, the bed can be a workbench or a simple table on which all parts of the device will be fixed. The electric drill is attached to the product using a clamp and a metal clamp.
With the help of such a lathe it is possible not only to produce various parts, but also paint workpieces, wind wire on a transformer, apply spiral notches to the surface of products and perform other necessary actions. And also if you make a special attachment for the machine, you will be able to easily produce small identical products.
Metal lathes
Thanks to metal lathes, people have the opportunity to make some parts themselves. It is not always possible to buy a part for a car or special equipment.
And most often not because there is not enough money, just if we're talking about about old Soviet special equipment or automobile industry products, many models are no longer produced. But nevertheless, this does not deprive the user of the opportunity to use them. Do-it-yourself metal lathes make it possible to do everything you need at home.
Why buy a metal lathe when you can make one yourself. It's not that difficult, and all you need is some drawings, a little patience and some old electrical equipment. Let's look at how to make such equipment yourself.
TV 16 screw-cutting lathe
The principle of operation of any lathe is to process the part as it rotates. Thus, the cutter inserted into the plane of rotation will remove unnecessary elements upon contact with the workpiece. Such equipment can be automated, allowing the operator to do the following:
- Perform longitudinal turning of a cylindrical workpiece with a smooth or stepped surface;
- Process ledges or grooves in a future part;
- Perform grooving of external or internal conical surfaces;
- Carry out thread cutting, both internal and external, using a cutter or drill;
- Ream or countersink holes in a metal workpiece;
- Cut off excess parts or cut grooves;
- Roll the grooved surface of the workpiece.
The main purpose of using a metal lathe is to process shafts, bushings or disks. Thus, a person gets the opportunity to make an axle, flywheel, sprockets, various liners, etc. from a blank. You can also process body parts on a universal lathe.
There is a certain classification of turning equipment. They are divided as follows
- According to turning characteristics. There are as many as 9 subgroups when dividing equipment in this way.
- Size range. The classification is carried out depending on the diameter of the workpiece that you will be processing.
- Level of specialization. Depending on the profile of the work performed and the capabilities of the equipment.
- Machine accuracy class.
The most famous and used for home workshops are screw-cutting lathes.
They gained their popularity back in Soviet years when the younger generation was taught to use them metal parts. The main purpose of the machines in this group is precisely to train specialists to work with more complex equipment.
This implies ease of operation and mastering of the machine. And high level security and minimum requirements to safety precautions during operator work.
Now similar equipment release modern style. Such models have increased functionality designed for the operation of an enterprise; therefore, it is not advisable to install such equipment at home.
It will be expensive - there is no point in overpaying for functionality that you will never use in your life.
Old TV-16 machines, which were used to equip almost all labor rooms and production workshops for training specialists in educational institutions, ideal for home. The problem is that getting such equipment even from a reservation is very problematic.
You can, of course, buy from a photo on Avito, but you will buy it second-hand, and it is not a fact that the machine will last you a long time, after the old owner.
It is best to do it yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about it. You will need tools and materials that are not a problem to get. By building a metal machine with your own hands, you will not only get equipment for working with workpieces, but also save a lot of money on the purchase and services of turners.
How the machine works - important structural elements
Design diagram.
Any equipment necessarily has a basis, without which it will not function. In a screw-cutting lathe, such structural elements are:
- Headstock and tailstock;
- The bed or frame, which is the basis for the equipment;
- Electric drive;
- Control centers - driven and driven parts of the machine;
- A handhold where the operator will rest cutting tools for processing the part.
This can also include grounding and a protective shield. The first will ensure your safety from defeat electric shock, and the second will protect against chips getting into your face.
The unit will be installed on a special steel. If you manufacture this equipment yourself, the frame is the base.
Advice: it is best to choose a high-quality and durable metal. The stronger the frame, the more securely the equipment will be fixed. This eliminates rattling of the screw-cutting turning unit.
The tailstock will be installed along the frame. This device is movable. The front one is motionless. It is connected by a belt drive to the drive, which causes the workpiece to move.
In turning and screw-cutting equipment, the center, which is the leading one, will connect the motor together with the rotation transmission device. The electric drive itself is best installed on the frame. At home, strong metal corners and profiles are best suited for creating a frame. You will also need some pieces of wood to act as a stand to help eliminate vibration from the equipment.
What is important here is not so much what you will use, but the stability of the finished frame. A motor is suitable as an electric drive; it is best that it comes from a high-power washing machine.
The entire installation will be powered with a voltage of 380V, so you will definitely need to run wires into the garage that can meet this requirement. You will also need an old table, which will serve as a stand for the machine. It is best to choose a sturdy table made of wood or metal.
The transmission of revolutions to the shafts can be done using a chain, friction or belt drive. A belt is best because it is the most effective, simple and reliable type.
Features of the design of a do-it-yourself screw-cutting lathe
General view of a homemade machine.
It is not difficult to make a homemade lathe at home. The main thing is to follow a number of rules that will help you do this. The first step is to replace the driven and driving centers of the equipment on the same axis. In this way, the user removes vibrations that may occur during the processing of metal workpieces.
Important! When using equipment with one leading center, you need to install a special jaw chuck or a faceplate.
Thanks to these elements, the user will be able to secure the part for further processing with cutting tools.
Important! Under no circumstances should motors be installed as commutator-type electric drives.
If such a unit is not provided with additional counter-load, the torque will be too strong. It will not be possible to grind anything at such speeds. In addition, the part may simply fly out of the clamps, which do not provide sufficient gripping force.
In this way, you can not only damage the workpiece itself, but also suffer badly if it hits a person. For this purpose, use an asynchronous motor. The essence of its work is that even with an increase or decrease in load, the rotation frequency transmitted to the shafts will not change.
Such a unit will allow the operator to process parts of the following dimensions:
- Thickness - 10 cm;
- Width - up to 70 cm.
The tailstock is a unique structural part of the machine where the driven center is mounted. It can be stationary or dynamic. To move it, a simple bolt is used. By twisting or unwinding, the headstock will move in the direction desired by the operator.
Before installing such a bolt, lubricate it with machine oil for better and more comfortable sliding. Only then is it permissible to insert it into the thread, which is designed to move the tailstock of the installation.
To work on creating a machine from improvised means, you will need several simple tools that every person can find
- Electric welding;
- Bulgarian;
- Grinding machine;
- Drill with a set of drills;
- Spanners;
- Measuring tools - a caliper along with a tape measure or ruler;
- Pen, pencil or marker for marking.
The first step is to think over the drawing, and then proceed with installation.
Design of a future product
Drawings with dimensions.
- Length - up to 115 cm;
- Width up to 62 cm;
- The height of the equipment axis is 18 cm.
Important! These dimensions should not be exceeded when manufacturing a machine in a home-made environment. This may lead to disruption of its geometry during operation.
When you draw up a project, draw out all the details, or download drawings with dimensions from the Internet and work according to the finished plan. If you try to keep all the points in your head, you will definitely make a mistake that will ruin all the equipment.
You will rely on the accuracy of the project and drawing of the future equipment not only during the work process, but also during the purchase of the necessary consumables.
We create a lathe based on an electric motor
Now let's look at the sequence of assembling a home metal lathe.
- We make the frame. According to the drawing, we process the channel or profile corner. We measure and trim what is unnecessary. Using welding, we securely weld the frame so that we get an even rectangle.
- Installation of slats and headstocks. A rail with a tailstock on one side will be mounted on it. And weld the headstock to the other.
- Drive installation. An electric motor is installed on the rear side of the frame. It should be placed as close as possible to the headstock, so that with the help of shafts and a belt it is possible to practically ensure the possibility of transmitting rotation to the working part.
- Installation of the tool rest. When the previous stage is completed, we install the tool stand. It is not welded, but is made movable using nuts and bolts. The movement of the tool rest should be in a direction perpendicular to the workpiece.
- Installing the protective casing and placing the belt on the transmission shafts.
- Connecting the motor to the network and grounding.
- Visual inspection for correct assembly and test run.
Tip: To better understand how to make a machine, look video below.
Congratulations - your home lathe is ready. Now you can effortlessly produce any necessary metal parts for special equipment or a car. You can also now repair certain parts yourself vehicle or household tools.