How to make a wall from plasterboard: from calculating the material to finishing. Changing the space of an apartment: how to make a wall from plasterboard Make a wall from plasterboard with your own hands

At the time of buying new apartment or during renovations, many people have a desire and need to redesign the premises. Thanks to this solution, you can enlarge individual rooms or, conversely, make them large room two smaller ones. Anyone can make a partition with their own hands home handyman. Before you begin work, you need to decide on the requirements for the partition and its appearance. After this, the material from which the structure will be created is selected and installation begins.

Features of using interior partitions

An interior partition is a thin partition that can completely block off a room or separate a certain part of it. Typically, the thickness of the partition is no more than 12 cm. This is due to the size of the building materials used.

Interior partitions can be with glass inserts or completely opaque

It’s not difficult to make an interior partition yourself, but you must definitely carry out the work in accordance with the developed technologies. IN apartment buildings It is impossible to make permanent partition walls from brick or other heavy building materials without the approval of the housing company. This is due to the fact that the ceilings are designed for certain weight and such a decision could lead to the destruction of the house.

In private one-story house This question is much easier. But even here it is necessary to calculate the weight of the partition so as not to damage the ceiling. When performing work, the specific characteristics of the house must be taken into account. For example, on plank floor You should not build a structure made of bricks. If such a decision is made, then a separate foundation will have to be made for it.

Types of partitions

If you decide to install an interior partition yourself, you first need to decide on its type.

Exist:

Stationary fixed partitions. These are durable structures with good sound insulation and high fire protection characteristics. There are two types stationary partitions:
Mobile or transformable structures. They are used to divide a room into functional zones or to combine several rooms. Most often they are installed in the hall, hallway, and dining room. Such elements consist of a frame filled with wood, glass or plastic. The filler can be either monolithic or divided into several sections. Mobile structures are divided into:
- casement or folding. The elements of this design are folded like a book. They may have two or more doors. Folding partitions are simple and light;
  The folding partition can have different quantities valves
- recoil. They are designed like doors in wardrobes and can consist of two or more sections. Typically the width of the valves is 80 cm or more. Depending on the design, they can be suspended - the rail is only on top - or supporting - there is a rail at the top and bottom. Such partitions are easy to install and are light in weight. Their disadvantage is that the bottom rail quickly becomes dirty, and the sound insulation of such structures is low. In addition, it is necessary to provide a place where the doors of such a partition will be removed when they are moved;
  Sliding partitions require space for the sliding sashes
- soft. They are made of fabric, leatherette, plastic or other flexible materials. They can be moved in both directions over the entire width of the room or part of it. Such structures are lightweight and require minimal time to install.
  Soft partitions are made from flexible materials (fabric, leatherette and others)

Video: types of interior partitions

How to choose material for an interior partition

For creating interior partition can be used various materials. They all have their advantages and disadvantages, so in order to make the right choice, you need to familiarize yourself with each of them in more detail. You need to decide what kind of partition you want to make - stationary or mobile. In addition, you need to focus on financial capabilities, since the cost of materials will differ, and on the availability of certain skills. Working with drywall or wood is much easier than building a partition from brick or foam and expanded clay concrete blocks.

When choosing a material to create an interior partition, you need to achieve a balance of the following characteristics:

saving space;
structural strength;
soundproofing characteristics.

The choice is also influenced by the size of the room, the need to save space, as well as whether you plan to hang heavy objects on the wall and how noisy family members are.

Most often, partitions are made from the following materials:

Brick. Despite the fact that brick is gradually losing its popularity, many people choose it to create interior partitions. This is due to the high strength, good sound insulation and availability of such building materials. To save space, you can make a partition of a quarter brick. It will be light, but not very durable, and its sound insulation will not exceed 40 dB. More often, partitions are built using half a brick. In this case, sound insulation is about 45 dB. To make the wall on both sides smooth, you need to have the appropriate skills. A brick structure turns out to be the most expensive, since in addition to masonry, the surface must be plastered, and this is an additional expense.
The brick partition has good soundproofing characteristics and high strength
Foam and expanded clay concrete blocks. Specific gravity There are 10–12 times fewer such blocks than bricks, while their sizes are several times larger. These characteristics make foam and expanded clay concrete blocks a popular material for creating interior stationary partitions. A block wall has less strength compared to a brick wall. The blocks can be cut with a regular hacksaw, and their laying is also done on cement mortar. Although foam blocks are more expensive than bricks, thanks to large sizes Fewer of them will be needed. In addition, they do not need to be plastered, just puttied, so the cost of such partitions will be slightly lower.
The specific gravity of foam concrete blocks is 10–12 times less than that of brick, and their dimensions are several times larger
Tongue-and-groove slabs. They can be either hollow or solid, while the thickness of the element is only 8 cm. Laying is carried out using glue. Due to the smooth surface of the blocks, such a partition does not need to be plastered. To level it, it is enough to cover it with two layers of putty. The sound insulation characteristics of tongue-and-groove slabs are not very high, so if necessary, they make an additional frame, put sound-proofing material into it and cover everything with plasterboard. The cost of such partitions will be almost the same as that of foam concrete structures.
Tongue-and-groove blocks can be either hollow or solid, while the thickness of the element is only 8 cm
Drywall. This partition is lightweight and easy to install. In addition, the result is a perfectly flat surface, and the frame, sheathed with sheets on both sides, can accommodate not only soundproofing material, but also hide communications. The cost of such a partition will be the lowest. The main disadvantage of this solution is its low strength. If you need to mount heavy objects on the wall, you need to make embedded profiles in the appropriate places of the frame in advance.
Depending on the location of the partition, plasterboard with different properties is used
Glass. Glass blocks are used for partitions, which can be used in combination with other materials or independently. They can be of any color, which allows you not only to zone the room, but also to decorate it. The sound insulation characteristics of glass blocks are quite good. They are laid using tile adhesive. To fill the seams, use grout of the appropriate color. A partition with glass inserts can be made. This solution allows you to fill the resulting room with light. Glazing can be single or double. In the latter case, blinds can be placed between the glass panes. The price of glass blocks is high, which negatively affects the cost of the partition.
Glass blocks can be transparent or colored
Tree. A wooden partition can be solid or framed. For creating monolithic structures boards, logs or beams are used. Such a partition turns out to be heavy, and you will have to spend a lot of money to create it. To reduce the cost and speed up the construction process, you can make a frame from bars, and then cover it on both sides with plywood, chipboard or clapboard. Since the cost of natural wood is more than metal profiles and drywall, such a partition will cost more.
A wooden partition fits well into almost any interior

Table: characteristics of the main materials used for the construction of stationary partitions

Criterion	Brick	Blocks
Thickness, cm	up to 16	7,5–13	8–10	300	96	75	50 (up to 150 on special blank sheets)
Strength	Maximum	Prone to cracking	Only withstands light objects	Low, to fasten heavy objects it is necessary to strengthen the frame
Sound insulation, dB	47–52	31–38	41	28–35
Additional construction costs	Waterproofing	Waterproofing	Installation of a metal profile frame
Operation speed	No more than 1 m in height per day	Depends on individual capabilities, there are no restrictions	Reduced due to prefabricated construction, but increased due to constant level control	6–8 times higher than a brick partition
Flaw	Uneven surface	Lots of dust when working	Large volume of waste	Low strength

In order to choose the right material for creating an interior partition, you must simultaneously pay attention to several factors. Initially determined with functional purpose future partition, and also take into account the design of the room, since it should fit organically into it.

The mass of the interior partition should be small. This is especially important for a multi-storey building. If this condition is not met, the load on the foundation and ceiling may exceed calculated value, which leads to the destruction of the building;
indoor humidity is taken into account. If it is high, then it is necessary to use moisture-resistant materials, for example, brick or special drywall, or perform high-quality waterproofing;
if the partition will separate the heated and unheated room, then it must have high thermal insulation characteristics;
in order to store in a separate area daylight, the partition can be made entirely of glass, transparent plastic, or partially use such elements;
if you plan to hide communications in the structure, its thickness should correspond to their size.

Regardless of the material chosen, when creating an interior partition, you must make sure that it is strong and reliable enough, since the safety of all family members depends on this.

Video: what interior partitions can be made from

Manufacturing of interior partitions

Depending on the selected material, the sequence of creating an interior partition will differ. Let us consider in more detail the technology for performing work using the most common materials.

What tool will you need?

The choice of the necessary tool will depend on what the partition is made of. To complete the work you may need:

How to make a partition from plasterboard

When creating an interior partition with your own hands, plasterboard is most often chosen.

Installation procedure:

Laying the base for the frame. The location of the future partition is marked on the floor, ceiling and walls. The guide profile is fixed to the floor, after which vertical profiles are inserted into it and secured to the walls. Then they mount ceiling profile. The pitch of the fastenings is 30–50 cm. The result is a quadrangular frame of the interior partition.
The guide profile is fixed to the floor using screws or dowels
Formation doorway. If a door is to be installed in the partition, it is necessary to make an appropriate frame for it that will support the weight of the door. To strengthen the metal profile rack, you need to install a wooden beam in it. Profiles with bars inside are inserted into the floor and ceiling guide profile and placed at a width that corresponds to the size door frame. The verticality of the racks is checked using a level, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws. Next, a profile corresponding to the width of the opening is cut out, a beam is inserted into it and secured horizontally at the required height.
The doorway post is inserted into the lower and upper guide profile and fixed with self-tapping screws
Installation vertical racks frame. Vertical posts are installed in increments of 60 cm. Since the width of the gypsum board is 120 cm, each sheet will be fixed to 3 racks. The racks must begin to be mounted from the middle to the edges. This is due to the fact that it is better to install whole sheets in the middle, and fill the edges of the partition with pieces. The vertical installation of the racks is controlled using a level.
Vertical posts are installed in increments of 60 cm
Installation horizontal profiles. Horizontal jumpers increase the rigidity of the structure. They are mounted in increments of 70–80 cm. In places where you plan to hang various objects on the wall, additional jumpers must be installed.
Horizontal lintels increase structural rigidity
Wiring installation. After creating the frame, wiring is installed. For this purpose, there are holes in the profiles into which wires are inserted. To ensure safety inside a plasterboard partition, wiring must be laid in non-flammable corrugated tubing.
Fixing sheets. The sheet is cut to the required dimensions, after which it is fixed to the frame using self-tapping screws. The screw caps should be recessed by 1 mm. Over time, gypsum boards can sag, so it is recommended to leave a small gap at the bottom, for which stands of the same thickness are used.
GKL sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws
Installation of sound insulation. After installing the sheets on one side of the frame, mineral wool is laid between the posts. After this, the partition is sewn up with sheets of drywall on the other side.
Soundproofing material is placed between the frame posts
Finishing work. The joints of the sheets are glued with sickle tape and puttied, and the screw heads are sealed. Then the interior partition is completely puttied and covered with finishing material.
The joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws are sealed, after which the partition is completely puttied

Video: creating a partition from plasterboard

How to make a partition from aerated concrete

The procedure for creating a partition from aerated concrete blocks:

Marking. First, using a level and a paint cord, mark the location line of the partition on the ceiling. Using plumb lines, transfer it to the floor. After this, connect the resulting lines along the wall; they should turn out vertical.
Laying waterproofing. To prevent the possibility of moisture from entering the partition from the base, the floor is cleaned of dust and dirt, after which waterproofing material is laid. It can be film, roofing felt or bitumen mastic.
Roofing material, film or bitumen mastic are used as waterproofing.
Installation of vibration damping strips. This material is made in the form of a strip in which there are many air bubbles. You can use hard mineral wool, soft fiberboard, dense and thin polystyrene foam. Vibration-damping strips are laid under the first row of foam blocks; they can also be installed at the joints load-bearing walls with a partition. The presence of a vibration-damping strip reduces the likelihood of cracks and increases the soundproofing characteristics of the structure.
Vibration dampening strips reduce the likelihood of cracks and increase the sound insulation characteristics of the structure
Laying foam blocks. This is done on a layer of glue 2–5 mm thick. It is imperative to bandage so that the next row overlaps the elements of the previous one; the offset is made by half the length of the block.
Foam blocks are laid on glue, the layer thickness of which is only 2–5 mm
Reinforcement. If the length of the partition is up to 3 m, this step can be skipped. In other cases, a mesh or perforated strip is laid between the rows. It is recommended to reinforce foam block partitions every three rows.
For reinforcement, a mesh or perforated strip is laid between the rows
Creating a connection to the wall. To ensure the necessary rigidity and strength of the interior partition, flexible connections are laid in the places where it adjoins the wall in every third row. These can be T-shaped anchors or perforated plates that are screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws. To prevent the formation of cracks between the wall and the partition, it is necessary to use a damper tape or mineral wool make a damper seam. To ensure the tightness of the structure after completion of the masonry, the seams are sealed with a vapor-tight sealant.
If there are seams, then flexible connections are inserted into them, in other cases they are screwed to the wall
Creating an opening. There is no need to install a massive lintel in the partition, since the structure is not load-bearing. It is enough to install two corners, which are 30–50 cm longer than the width of the opening. To prevent the lintel from bending while the glue dries, it must be supported with a stand.
Metal corners are usually used as doorway lintels.
Connection to the ceiling. The partition should not reach the ceiling by 20 mm. If necessary, the blocks are sawn lengthwise. The remaining space is filled with damper tape. You can simply moisten the seam with water and fill the gap to the ceiling with foam. This solution will reduce the noise coming from the upper floor.
Finishing. Since the surface of the foam blocks is smooth, there is no need to plaster it. It is enough to putty and you can install the finishing material.

Video: creating a partition from foam concrete

How to make a wooden interior partition

Wooden partitions can be framed or frameless.

The procedure for creating a frame wooden partition will be as follows:

Surface preparation. The area where work will be performed must be level and clean. After this, markings are carried out, the locations of the frame on the ceiling, floor and walls are marked.
Cutting bars. According to the developed design, bars of the required length are cut. All wooden elements treated with a protective compound. This will improve their fire resistance characteristics and also protect them from damage by fungus, mold and insects.
Installation of the base. A wooden beam is fixed to the floor and ceiling with self-tapping screws.
Installation of vertical racks. They are mounted in 60 cm increments and fixed to the ceiling and base with metal corners.
Vertical racks are attached to a beam installed on the floor and ceiling using metal corners
Strapping of racks. 2–3 rows of bars are mounted horizontally. There should be about 10 cm between the top row and the ceiling. You can do the strapping at an angle, but it still won’t be visible.
Creating a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, racks are mounted at the required width and a horizontal lintel is fixed.
Covering one side of the frame. This can be done with clapboard, plywood, chipboard or MDF sheets.
After laying the soundproofing material, sew up the second side of the frame
Finishing. The seams between the slabs are covered with sickle tape and puttied. You also need to putty the screw heads, and then the entire surface, after which you can proceed to installing the finishing coating.

When creating a frameless partition, boards 40–50 mm thick are used. Here, too, the block is first fixed on the floor and ceiling, but unlike the previous method, the frame is not created, but everything is sewn up with boards on both sides. Soundproofing material and wiring are laid between them. This method is used less frequently, since the cost of materials will be higher, and the structure will be more massive and heavier.

Video: how to make a wooden partition

Using interior partitions, you can divide the room into several functional zones. Even a beginner can carry out installation work. First, taking into account what functions the partition will perform and the design of the room, choose the material. After this, you need to study the technology for performing the work and do everything in accordance with the recommendations of specialists. Having spent a minimum of time and effort, you can make an interior partition yourself and not spend money on hiring expensive craftsmen.

Many modern apartments do not have a layout and therefore the owners independently break down total area for rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The simplest, fastest and in an accessible way creating interior partitions are plasterboard structures . Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.

Drywall is a universal building material that is used both for finishing a room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating apartments. The only things that can compete with it in terms of characteristics are: or

Benefits of using drywall if it is necessary to create an interior partition with a door, they will be as follows:

This lightweight material , so the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
All work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials necessary to create the frame and surface finishing ;
material is easy to cut, it bends easily, so even arched structures are created with its help;
installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
plasterboard sheets consist of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

Eat different types drywall, so before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

ordinary, more often gray, used in rooms where humidity is not more than 70%;
moisture resistant, has green or Blue colour and is used in rooms where there is constantly high humidity;
refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, it contains fiberglass and other additives, it is red or gray in color;
fire-resistant moisture-resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

The thickness of a regular sheet is 12.5 mm, and to create arches they use sheets 6.5 mm thick, to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Installation of an interior partition

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. To mark, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are drawn on the floor and ceiling.

It is much easier to work with a laser level, but buying it just to create a plasterboard wall is impractical.

Taking into account the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor along the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm greater than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account, if it is sheathed in one sheet, then 2.5 cm is added to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then 5 cm is added.

To perform the specified work, you will need the following tools:

building level;
measuring instruments;
cord and plumb line, or how to replace them - laser level;
corner;
electric drill;
metal scissors or jigsaw;
pencil;
stationery knife;
putty knife;
container for plaster.

After marking, cut the profile to the required length, back walls cover with sealing tape.

Installation of profiles

Work begins with laying and securing the guide profile to the floor, after which it is installed along the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fastened using self-tapping screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now, using the rack profile forming a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts at the top and bottom is the same. The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to lay wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and secure them with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the remaining rack profiles are mounted, if you have gypsum boards of standard width, then the distance between them is 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts it is necessary to secure horizontal jumpers, which are cut from the same profile.

A wooden block is also installed and secured into the transverse profile located above the doorway; it should easily fit into it so as not to disturb the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.

The remaining transverse profiles are attached to the racks; special short screws are used for this.

After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and durable, start laying electrical wiring. The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread wires.

The wiring is placed in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.

Fastening drywall

At home You can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or staff. To do this, apply a ruler to the sheet, make a cut along the line several times, the deeper it is, the better, and then carefully break the gypsum board and get the required size.

To simplify finishing work, make a chamfer at the cut site at an angle of about 45 degrees, a plane or knife is used for this.

During the calculations, It is necessary to foresee in advance the places where you plan to mount hanging furniture or equipment.

Must be installed here additional profiles, reinforced wooden blocks, it all depends on the weight of the hanging structures.

Left place the sheet on the posts and secure it, this is done using self-tapping screws; they are installed in increments of 20 cm and slightly recessed into the sheet.

If you forgot to chamfer the sheets before installing them, do this with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing work

Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a plasterboard partition. At the next stage All seams are sealed. To do this, use sickle tape and putty. The entire surface of the wall is also puttyed.

After the base has dried, begin leveling the surface. The wall is covered with primer, which will allow the plaster to adhere better and provide additional protection for the plasterboard. Leveling is carried out with a wide spatula and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening is performed installation of the door frame, do this with wedges, screws and polyurethane foam . First, the frame is aligned using wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to installing the door leaf.

The correctness of the work is checked, and the door should open and close easily. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

At this time, the door is in the closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

The foam is cut off after it has completely hardened; if the canvas was removed, then it is hung only a day later, after installing the box.

Finishing

At the last stage of creating a plasterboard wall, its finishing is carried out, for this purpose it is usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is covered with platbands, which help hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave a hollow partition; it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is covered with plasterboard, and only then is it sheathed on the other side.

If you plan to install utilities or a sliding door in such a wall, then insulation is not installed in the place where they are located.

To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. From below, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, so stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to be able to create a plasterboard wall with an opening for doors yourself, You must adhere to the following expert advice:

During the installation of partitions in the room must be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
You need to calculate required amount guides and rack metal profiles, only then purchase them. You can cut them to the required size with a jigsaw or metal scissors.
The sheets are laid tightly to each other.
To create holes for sockets, you must use special nozzles to the drill.
In the places where the sheets are joined, be sure to use a sickle and seal the heads of the screws well with putty, after which the entire wall is puttied.
As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels and others.

Conclusion

Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of plasterboard partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology of performing the work, advice from experts and prepared necessary tool, feel free to begin performing the specified work.

Useful video

How to make a partition from plasterboard with your own hands, step-by-step instruction on video:

In contact with

Not always in apartments or purchased houses, new owners like the standard layout of the rooms. So the question arises, how to build a plasterboard wall with your own hands?

Building a permanent wall is quite difficult, moreover, for apartment buildings approval will be required from the relevant authorities. In this case, the easiest way out is installation plasterboard partition, and the article will tell you how to do this.

Gypsocraton is a flexible, lightweight and easy-to-work material.

With its help, you can give any room an original and unique look. It could be:

A wall dividing a room.
A plasterboard partition of unimaginable shape.
Complex decorative design.

To build a plasterboard wall, you must follow the following sequence of work:

Make a wall frame. Typically, metal profiles or wooden slats are used for this.

Advice: Preference for the frame should be given to metal elements that have greater strength and less susceptibility to external factors, such as: mechanical stress, humidity. In addition, the price of the material is quite affordable, and the profile of the parts is made specifically for this material.

Sheathe the wall on both sides with sheets of plasterboard, which can be ordinary, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant, which depends on the purpose of the room where the plasterboard walls are being built.
Fill the space between the canvases. It can be glass wool or mineral wool.

The advantages and disadvantages of installing plasterboard walls are shown in the table:

Advantages

Flaws

Easy installation.
The ability to give the material any shape.

Tip: Before bending the sheets, they must first be moistened with water.

Expensive tools are not required when performing the work.
In the space between the sheets you can place air ducts, telephone cables and electrical wiring.
The partition wall made of plasterboard has a smooth surface.
The material can be painted (see How to paint drywall: choosing paint), wallpapered, or tiled.

From prolonged exposure to moisture, the canvas can “swell”, which will worsen its original appearance.
Due to low mechanical strength, it is difficult to hang curtain rods on the wall, lighting, paintings. This will require strengthening the fastening points with special embedded elements.
Heavy objects should not be installed on a plasterboard wall.

Frame materials

Before a wall is built from plasterboard, a durable frame of the selected configuration is made. For this purpose, a metal profile specially designed for panels is used, and whole line auxiliary devices used during its installation.

For this purpose, the following profile sizes are used:

D - to form the surface on which the drywall will be attached.
W- for the construction of a general wall frame.
C – reference.
U – guide. This is a simple U-shaped profile with smooth side walls; a support profile with special ribbing made by pressing is inserted into it at the end, which increases the bending rigidity of the element.

Main profile dimensions:

CD is a load-bearing frame element with dimensions of 60x27 millimeters.
UD – guide for fastening the CD profile, with dimensions 28x27 millimeters.
CW – profile for wall frame posts, with dimensions 50x50; 50x75; 50x100 millimeters.
UW – guide for CW profile, dimensions 50x40; 75x40; 100x40 millimeters.
UA profile is a variant of the CW profile, but more rigid.

The type of profiles and dimensions are shown in the photo.

To calculate the approximate amount of materials, a table is presented that shows consumption rates necessary materials for installation of a partition, the dimensions of which are:

Length – 3.5 meters.
Width – 2.5 meters.
Height excluding door openings.

When constructing a frame, it is necessary to keep in mind that:

For a plasterboard wall with a thickness of 5; 7.5 or 10 centimeters, W profile is used.
For a thicker partition, a D series profile is installed, and the guide elements are fixed in parallel, 2 at a time, instead of the standard one.
Any distance between the guides can be chosen, depending on the presence of insulation or installation of communications.

Preparing for wall installation

The instructions for installing a plasterboard wall suggest starting work with preparatory operations.

For this:

Markings are made on the floor, ceiling and walls where the partition is supposed to be installed.
The lines for installing the wall are drawn in relation to the window parallel to the other two walls.
A rigid guide profile is screwed along the intended perimeter with dowels, serving as a support for the structure being constructed.

When constructing a plasterboard wall, the following rule must be observed:

The profile for the racks turns with the stiffening rib to the side where the fastening of the sheets begins.
If installation is done from right to left, the ribs should be on the right.
For the partition in which the door is provided, a rigid rack profile must be installed. Detailed video This article will allow you to see the whole process with your own eyes and understand what appearance the prepared structure will have.

Rack profiles are distributed along the guides in increments of approximately 50 centimeters.

Tip: Joints between two sheets should only be made on the profile. This will increase the strength of the structure.

Additional profiles are inserted into the part of the wall located above the door to ensure rigid fixation of the sheets.

Wall paneling

Before you start attaching drywall, you need to choose the right material. The strength and durability of a plasterboard structure depends on the quality of the material, its compliance performance characteristics the room in which the wall will be installed.

The basis of plasterboard is a gypsum core, which is covered on both sides with multilayer cardboard.

Plasterboard sheets (GKL), depending on the constituent elements, are divided into:

GKL – standard sheets plasterboard used for “lining” rooms with normal humidity. It has low fire-retardant characteristics. The cost of such material is the lowest.
GKLO– fire-resistant plasterboard. In this case, the gypsum filler contains fiberglass reinforcement, and the cardboard is impregnated with fire retardants, which reduce the flammability of the material. Fiberglass retards the spread of flame.
GKLV– waterproof plasterboard, used for constructing partitions in wet rooms: bathrooms, balconies and lining walls. The ability of drywall to absorb moisture is maximally reduced by the cardboard layer of gypsum plasterboard impregnated with hydrophobic compounds.
GKLVO– a combined type of drywall that combines waterproof, fire-resistant properties. Its cost is the highest.

Depending on the purpose, the thickness of the plasterboard sheets is selected:

It is better to cover the walls with wall gypsum plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 millimeters.
The ceiling is sheathed with ceiling plasterboard - 9.5 millimeters thick (see Cladding the ceiling with plasterboard: doing it right).
To create a figure on a plasterboard wall, you will need an arched plasterboard, 7.5 - 8 millimeters thick.

Advice: When purchasing drywall, you must carefully inspect the sheets for defects on them, so that there is no damage to the cardboard or a beveled core.

Drywall cutting

Used for cutting material construction knife with a set of replaceable blades.

After that:

The sheet is placed on a flat, necessarily hard surface.
Use a pencil or marker to mark the cutting line.
Cuts with a knife top part cardboard
The sheet is shifted along the cut line onto the lump of support and neatly breaks.
The sheet returns to its original position, turns on its edge, and then bends.
The cardboard is cut from the second side, but not all the way through.
The canvas is turned over to the other side, shifted to the edge of the support and finally separated.

Tip: To ensure a gap, for high-quality sealing of the seams subsequently with putty, it is necessary to form a bevel on the edge of the sheet with an inclination of approximately 22.5° degrees using a special plane for drywall.

Fastening sheets

The plasterboard is attached to the metal frame with 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws.

Wherein:

The corners of the sheet are attached.
Fasteners are placed in increments of 10–25 centimeters along the edges of the sheet and along its center line.
The self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the caps of the elements are slightly recessed into the gypsum board, and do not protrude above the level of the wall.

Tip: The sheets should be fixed higher from the floor at a distance of 15 millimeters to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

After attaching the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding section of plasterboard is prepared.
A chamfer is cut on it to improve the joining of the panels to the top or bottom sheet and to the ceiling.

All subsequent sheets are attached entirely without chamfers, in a checkerboard pattern: after installing the first row, a whole sheet of plasterboard is placed under the ceiling, and the missing part is placed below.

Installation of wiring, sockets, switches:

Sound insulation and wall finishing

Mineral wool is used for sound insulation. In this case, a plasterboard wall reduces the penetration of sound from one room to another.

For this:

The cotton wool fits tightly between the frame posts without gaps, without additional fastening.
The reliability of laying the material can be improved by horizontal jumpers made of wooden beam, the length of which is selected according to the width of the wall, and pieces of mineral wool will be shorter.

After laying the sound insulation, the second side of the wall is sheathed.
All end surfaces are filled.
Serpyanka mounting mesh is glued to the joints.
Starting putty is applied.
The entire surface is treated with finishing putty.
The surface is finally leveled using an abrasive mesh and a float.
The wall is ready to apply any suitable coating.

Design solutions

A beautifully designed plasterboard wall creates original look any premises, and its owner good mood. The video will show you how to do this. How can you decorate a plasterboard wall?

A few examples are presented below:

The walls can be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint.

Cover with natural or artificial stone.

Make a mosaic or tile finish.

You can make a drawing on a plasterboard wall.

You can make a niche indoors from plasterboard with LED lighting.

A fireplace made of plasterboard in the wall looks great.

The color scheme can be very different and match color scheme the entire room.

In order to do everything correctly and avoid mistakes when installing the structure, before installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands, it is better to watch the video. In it, all stages are accompanied by visual instructions.

Sometimes, to bring the walls into proper shape, damp plaster turns out to be useless. The condition of the surface may be so poor that other materials will be needed for repairs. Or is ideal evenness of vertical structures required for subsequent finishing.

This can only be achieved by covering the walls with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) over an installed metal frame.

High demand for this construction material caused by many pronounced advantages that clearly emerge as a result of its use.

In this regard, it is worth noting that the capabilities of drywall are not limited to straightening walls. It is often used for redevelopment of premises and internal zoning.

Walls and partitions made of gypsum plasterboard differ from other structures during installation an undeniable advantage. They can be easily installed independently without the involvement of professional teams.

Their installation, like leveling walls with plasterboard, does not require the purchase of expensive equipment. The technology is quite simple and if certain nuances associated with the processing of plasterboard sheets are observed, the work can be completed quickly and efficiently.

Drywall capabilities

Interest in plasterboard is caused not only by its use as dry plaster, leveling walls or as a material for installation interior walls. It mainly attracts with its capabilities, thanks to which, when working with it, you can make any configuration of wall structures.

Most often, gypsum boards are used to create beautiful arches, original figured partitions and other space-delimiting structures.

The ease with which the material can be processed allows you to arrange any wall design and change the layout according to a pre-developed project of any type, from simple to the most complex.

To decide to change something in a house or apartment, you need an appropriate reason or a visual example of what you would like to see in the end. As a rule, visual images of various structures made of gypsum board and presented in advertising catalogs become motivators for such actions.

Having seen photos of plasterboard walls, many are eager to install something similar in their home. All the more attractive is the fact that such a thing (wall, partition) can be built independently.

Installation of plasterboard walls

Before you start building the wall, you need to thoroughly prepare. In this case, we are talking not only about the purchase of material and tools.

The internal wall is the main element dividing the space into certain zones. Therefore, it must be properly planned. All requirements must be taken into account. Decide on the need for insulation or ignore it. Decide which material is more suitable for a particular room, regular gypsum board or moisture resistant.

In addition, you have to worry about the design of the product. A drawing made in a horizontal plane, with plotted parameters and a detailed appearance in several projections (central and lateral).

The main components when constructing gypsum plasterboard walls

The base of wall structures is usually a metal frame made of galvanized profiles. They are distributed by standard sizes. Some types of profiles are installed as guides, others as elements of vertical posts. They are also designated according to their purpose.

For example, the PS profile is a stand, and the PN profile is a guide. The choice of section depends, first of all, on the purpose of the structure. If you need to split large room for two different uses (children’s and bedroom), which means a wide frame is required for installing insulation boards inside.

For sheathing, of course, you will need sheets of drywall. So that the wall is strong and has increased level sound insulation, it is better to carry out the cladding in two layers on both sides of the installed frame.

Based on this, the material is calculated by calculating the wall area minus the opening and multiplying the resulting number by four by the total number of layers. Small holes, such as a niche in the wall or holes for pipe routing, are not taken into account in the calculations.

It must be remembered that the frame racks are installed in increments of 0.6 meters. This is in accordance with the normative data.

Parameters of a gypsum board sheet 1.2x2.5 m. The sheets are mounted in such a way that the dividing seams run along the center line of the wide shelf, and a whole rack is located in the middle of the sheet.

Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Their length should exceed the thickness of the side layer of two sheets. In order for the self-tapping screws to hold tightly in the body of the structure and have a rigid adhesion to the metal frame, they are screwed in with a screwdriver or drill.

Finishing work

When the wall is mounted and all technological methods are taken into account, finishing work begins. First of all, the seams are processed. To do this, use a primer, putty and serpyanka (painting tape).

The seams are primed, tape is applied and smoothed with putty. The result should be a continuous, flat surface.

If painting is intended, the entire surface is puttied to avoid gaps.

Wall finishing is considered the final stage, but is nevertheless very important. The final appearance, which as a result will attract the main attention. Therefore, you should carefully consider the associated work before applying the finishing coat.

Especially if it's painting or wallpapering. In this case, you need to make sure that there are no putty residues, cracks or scratches anywhere in the area of the seams. The surface is polished with a special mesh, and then proceed to finishing. A gypsum board wall can be considered complete.

Photo of plasterboard walls

Making plasterboard walls with your own hands in a residential apartment or house is not at all difficult. It is enough to study the technology and the main nuances of such installation work to complete them without much difficulty.

Profiles for obtaining a durable frame - the basis of gypsum plasterboard walls

Furnishing your home often requires the construction of new interior walls and various partitions. This need usually arises during large-scale redevelopment of houses and apartments and when purchasing living space without interior decoration and division of space in a new building. This problem can be solved by installing walls made of gypsum plasterboard - plasterboard sheets, on metal profiles.

Installing drywall with your own hands does not require special construction knowledge, and you have the opportunity to build truly durable and reliable structures.

Installation of gypsum plasterboard walls is carried out on a frame made from the already mentioned metal profiles. The latter have the following letters in their markings:

W – used for the construction of the general “skeleton” of the wall surface;
D – to create a wall plane;
U – guide profiles;
C – support profiles (mounted in products marked U, characterized by high bending strength due to special ribs provided in their design).

The frame is constructed from metal profiles with the following full markings:

CD is a key component of the “skeleton” of the future wall, standard size such profiles are 60x27 mm.
CW - products for racks that the frame has, they are characterized by sizes from 50x50 mm to 50x100 mm. Their more reinforced and thick-walled analogue is the UA profile.
UD – guide element 28x27 mm (needed for attaching the CD profile).
UW – guide strip 50, 75 or 100x40 mm for fastening CW products.

The frame for walls of large width, for example, for those in which it is planned to install various communications, is usually made from UD and CD profiles. And the installation of partitions is most often made from products marked UW and CW. Please note that installing a plasterboard wall requires the use of two guides. They are installed at the required distance on both sides of the wall surface parallel to each other.

We are building the frame of the future wall - the beginning of work

Let's see how to make a metal “skeleton” for a wall in a home from CW and UW profiles. The frame is made in rooms with walls ready for finishing with finishing materials and floors with screed.

The first step of construction is to mark the wall that we plan to make on the floor surface. Performing this operation requires taking into account the following important points:

In old buildings (and often in new houses) there are practically no rooms with absolutely right angles between the walls. At different ends of the room, the difference between the angles can reach 2–4 cm. In this regard, when marking a wall structure, it is necessary to link to two opposite sides of the room at once, average the calculation results and focus specifically on the average indicators.
When marking the very first line, remember that it serves to align not the final wall, but only the guide metal profile. That is, the thickness will subsequently have to be added to the applied mark. plasterboard sheet, as well as the putty and immediate finishing layer of the wall.

Having marked the first line on the floor, transfer it to the walls and ceiling surface using a laser level. If this is not available, use a regular plumb line. Then attach the UW profile guides to the ceiling and floor, securing them with impact screws and dowels.

To make the frame reliable, hardware should be installed along the edges metal strip and at a distance of 40–50 cm from each other. After this, the guides are mounted on the existing walls. Experts recommend installing all profiles using tape that acts as a seal. It is placed between the supporting surface and the guides.

Next, we install and fix the racks (support) from CW products along the edges of the guides. Additionally, we install support posts in places where a window or door opening will be created. It’s faster and easier to make a frame if you fix the profiles first on the bottom rail. After this, you can install them in the upper guide. Don't forget to leave some space for the drywall sheets and finishing layer.

Some useful tips from the pros:

It is best to fasten guides and racks with flea screws.
The profiles are mounted inside the opening with the front part.
Racks for window and doorways requires further strengthening. Wood blocks are usually used for these purposes. They are installed inside the profile. Bars are almost never used if they are being built plasterboard walls from AU profiles.

The final stage of work on creating the metal “skeleton” of the wall

Then you can begin installing vertically supporting CW products along the entire length of the resulting “skeleton”. The very first profile is placed at a distance of 55 cm from the adjacent wall, and a distance of 60 cm is maintained between the remaining supports. At this stage, it is important to constantly monitor the strictly vertical position of the profiles.

Increased attention should be paid to the edges (horizontal) of window and upper parts of doorways. To form them, the UW profile is used. Its length should be 30 cm greater than the width of the opening. Marks are made on the side bends of the front part of the UW profiles at a distance of 15 cm from the edges. The distance between them should correspond to the width of the planned opening.

This is followed by:

trim the sidewalls of the profiles at a 45-degree angle (down to the base of the metal product);
bend the edge of the UW profile to obtain a U-shaped workpiece;
the structure in the shape of the letter U is stretched with bent edges along the sides of the opening onto the racks, and then installed to the required height and fixed with self-tapping screws.

After completing all the described operations, oblique “ears” will appear on the horizontal section of the completed workpiece. They also need to be screwed.

As a result of simple steps, we have received a reliable frame that can easily support the weight of plasterboard sheets. The geometric parameters of the latter are standard - 120 by 200, 250 or 300 cm. In the next section we will figure out how to mount gypsum boards on a frame we have made.

Installation of plasterboard sheets - subtleties of the procedure

You will most likely have to cut the gypsum board when creating the wall. This is not difficult to do if you use a standard construction knife equipped with several blades that can be changed if necessary. Drywall cutting is carried out as follows:

place a sheet of material on a hard, flat surface;
Use a pencil to mark the line along which you want to cut the plasterboard;
carefully cut the top covering of the product, slide it along the intended line to the edge of the surface;
very carefully break the gypsum board.

After this, you should return the product to its place (it will stand on its edge and bend), turn it over, carefully cut it, and place it on the edge again supporting surface and finally separate the “extra” part from it.

The cut end of the plasterboard sheet is usually additionally chamfered, beveled at an angle of about 22.5°. It must be performed on the edge of the gypsum board adjacent to the strip of drywall located either below or above the sheet. Such a bevel is made using a plane, which is intended specifically for working with gypsum boards. The need for this strip arises when the height of the ceilings in the room is greater than the length of the sheet.

It is necessary to remove the side chamfer from the first sheet of drywall mounted flush against the edge of the supporting surface. This is done by cutting a strip about 5 cm wide on one side (along the entire length) of the product.

Compound metal frame with gypsum plasterboard it is produced 3.5x35 mm. First, fix the edges of the sheet, then install the fasteners along its middle line. The distance between adjacent hardware is selected from 100 to 250 mm. It is not recommended to take a larger distance, as the strength of the structure will greatly decrease.

The gypsum board should be mounted at a distance of 1–1.5 cm from the floor surface. This way you will ensure the integrity of the constructed wall during its operation. More important point. When screwed into the sheet, the heads of the screws should not protrude beyond the level of the wall; they should be slightly deepened into the drywall.

After the installation and fixation of the first sheet is completed, you will need to cut the plasterboard strip to cover the distance from the gypsum board to ceiling surface. Don’t forget to chamfer the strip (on the sides that will connect to the drywall and directly to the ceiling).

Next, installing drywall on the walls is completely simple. All subsequent products do not need to be trimmed. Mount them in a checkerboard pattern - a whole gypsum board after the first row is placed under the ceiling, and the missing strip is added below. One side of our new wall covered with plasterboard.

Before you begin covering the other side, you need to lay the electrical cables in the wall (if you decide to “hide” the wires). At the required height, make 3.5 cm holes in the middle of the metal profile. You will then pass the electrical cables through them. Be sure to bend the edges of the holes, otherwise their sharp parts may damage the communications. Note that it is recommended to place the wires in the wall in a corrugated pipe.

I think you can complete the cladding on the other side without much difficulty. After all, now you clearly know how to install drywall. After this, you will need to fill all the gaps of the structure made. Joints between sheets and internal corners first glued with serpyanka (a special mesh used in finishing works), and then leveled (we recommend taking starting lineups).

Finishing putty is used to seal areas where fasteners are located. It must also be used before you wallpaper a wall or paint its surface.