The SV-1 juicer from the Kharkov Elektrotyazhmash plant has long become a rarity. But thanks to the high quality of extraction, it can still compete with the most modern juicers, so it is still very popular in many families. Unfortunately, time does not spare either people or things. So the SV-1 once failed. What to do?
The signs of a malfunction were simple and obvious even to juicer owners far from electrical engineering - when turning on the juicer buzzed, but did not move. Naturally, repair shops household appliances they didn't get down to business. I had to turn to the craftsmen, that is, to me.
The juicer brought in for repair turned out to be in the most original configuration. All parts of the juicer itself were in place, original cardboard box, instruction manual and even a passport. By the way, the passport indicates the release date of this juicer - May 31, 1971. It turns out that she wasted the forty-third year of her existence. The age, needless to say, is quite respectable for a juicer.
The characteristics of the SV-1 juicer are not impressive at first glance. The juicer is centrifugal, the electric motor power is 350 W, the drum rotation speed is only 3000 rpm, there is no automatic pulp ejection. This means that every 3-5 minutes the juicer needs to be stopped and the pulp removed manually. Modern juicers have automatic pulp ejection, power from 300 to 1000 W and drum rotation speed up to 12000-15000 rpm and more.
It would seem, why revive junk? But let's take a closer look. Under the lid of the juicer there is a grater disc and a mesh drum. Unlike most modern juicers, SV-1 has vertical wall drum.
On the one hand, this does not allow the use of automatic pulp removal. On the other hand, the cylindrical drum allows you to squeeze up to 95% juice contained in vegetables and fruits. The best juicers with conical drums and automatic pulp removal, squeezes no more than 60-70% juice, the rest goes with waste into pulp. You can find many reviews about this online a large number of juice in the waste of juicers with conical drums, to the point that the pulp is easily squeezed out by hand. Juicer SV-1 will squeeze everything dry!
Therefore, we proceed to autopsy the patient. To do this, you need to open the clamping levers, remove the lid, unscrew the clamping nut, remove the drum, grater disc and juice collector. In front of us is the motor block.
If you remove the rubber shock absorbers marked in the figure, you will find the motor mounting screws. After unscrewing them, the housing is easily removed and access to the motor opens. Unfortunately, now the juicer has already been repaired, so there is no desire to disassemble it again for photographs. But inside everything is simple and clear.
The SV-1 juicer uses a motor original design. This is single phase shaded pole electric motor. It has two windings located at the stator poles. Typically a capacitor is used to start a single-phase motor. Here, for starting, additional short-circuited windings are used from one turn of a thick copper busbar, covering part of the pole piece. The rotor is an ordinary squirrel-cage rotor, rotating in real Soviet bearings. When worn out, the bearings can be easily replaced with new ones, but even after 40 years of operation there is no need for this.
The advantages of the engine are simplicity of design and high reliability. There is practically nothing to break here. Therefore, they immediately came under suspicion stator windings. On the face turn-to-turn short circuit, one winding creates a stronger magnetic field, and the weak field of additional windings is not enough to move the rotor.
Several times were enough to restore functionality. press firmly on the windings from all possible sides. The wires in the winding were positioned differently, and the interturn short circuit disappeared. The repair is completed, the juicer works like new!
In more severe cases, it would be necessary to rewind the motor windings. This is also quite real challenge, the windings can be removed from the stator. But this is much more labor-intensive work and a completely different story.
D. Lepaev
Drinking a glass of fruit or vegetable juice is pleasant at any time of the year. but preparing it using a grater and then squeezing it out is not so easy. A considerable investment of effort and time is required. And an electric juicer handles this task almost instantly.
This compact device is easy to use and consumes negligible electricity. An hour of continuous operation of a juicer costs a few pennies.
Electric juicers are designed to extract juice from fresh fruits and vegetables by grinding the product and centrifuging. In addition, they are used for chopping and cutting fruits and vegetables into slices.
The following classification of electric juicers has been adopted in Russia (Table 1).
Electric juicers, depending on additional operations performed and structural elements, are manufactured in four levels of comfort (highest, first, second, third). Comfort elements include the following:
devices for grating raw vegetables, chopping and cutting vegetables, mixing liquids, chopping vegetables and fruits;
electric brake;
device for storing the connecting cord;
speed controller;
additional filter for better cleaning juice Juicers have a non-removable connecting cord 1.5 m long. Sound level for the device highest category quality should be no more than 72 dBA and for a device of the first quality category - no more than 74 dBA.
Technical characteristics of domestic electric juicers are given in table. 2.
Electric juicer “Juice”
type SVMR consists of an electric drive housing 1 (Fig. 1), in which an asynchronous electric motor 2 is secured with four screws. A platform 8 is mounted on the electric motor shaft and secured with fonts, on which, using
The mesh basket 4 and the grating disk 5 are installed and fixed with plastic nuts. A plastic perforated tape 7 is placed in the mesh basket along its walls.
The housing 3 of the juicer is installed on the housing 1 of the electric drive. To fix it on the electric drive housing there is a special protrusion. The juicer body is closed with a lid 6, which has a loading window for storing products. The lid is latched using a carrying handle set to a vertical position. Using switch 9, the electric motor rotates the mesh basket and the grating disk.
Products loaded through the loading window are fed by a pusher to the knives of the grating disc. The crushed products are thrown onto the walls of the basket under the influence of centrifugal force. The juice enters tray 3 through the holes in the belt and basket and flows into the prepared dishes.
When preparing the juicer for operation, it is necessary to install housing 3 so that the flats on the holes of the basket and disk coincide with the flats on the platform shaft. The grating disc and mesh basket are secured with a nut.
Disassembling the juicer
comes down to disassembling the electric drive. To do this, place the drive on the table, unscrew the four screws securing the bottom and remove it. Place a support under the output shaft of the drive (so as not to bend the shaft) and, using a bit or tube, knock out the pin securing the platform hub 8 to the shaft. Remove the platform. Unscrew the screw of the clamp securing the power cord to the drive housing. Remove the two screws securing the switch. Remove the four screws securing the electric motor to the housing. Remove the electric motor from the housing along with the switch and cord. To disassemble the engine, unscrew the four nuts that secure the front shield, stator package and rear shield using studs. Disconnect the switch and connecting cord. Replace the faulty part or assembly.Assembly should be carried out in reverse order. While doing this, lubricate the bearings by placing a few drops of mineral oil into each bearing.
If the juicer does not turn on, check the serviceability of the cord, switch, and electric motor windings.
If the electric motor hums, but the shaft does not rotate, check to see if the rotor is stuck. If necessary, ensure free rotation of the rotor by loosening the tie of the stator package and then securing it. Check the condition of the bearings and add grease. If there is strong vibration, check the quality of assembly of all parts, as well as the reliability of fastening the grating disk and basket to the platform shaft.
Electric squeezer "Zhuravushka-2" SVSP-301.
The juice is obtained by grinding the product with a grating disk and centrifugation. The pulp is periodically removed by bringing the blades of the ejector mechanism to the inner surface of the rotating centrifuge.The electric juicer consists of an electric motor 25 (Fig. 2), a sieve 3 for centrifugal filtration, housings 13 and 16 with a loading hopper, a fan 18, a grating disk 2, a tray 5 and an ejector 12.
Disassembling the juicer for repair.
Remove pusher 4, tray 5, cover 9, nozzle 7, unscrew clamp 11 and screw 10. Remove ejector 12, spring washer 8 and handle 6. Unscrew clamp 1. Remove grating disk 2, sieve 3, housing 13. Unscrew screw 19, remove fan 18, unscrew screws 17, remove housing 16. Unscrew nut 23 and screw 20, remove cage 22 with spring 21. Unsolder the wires from the terminals of switch 24 and remove the switch. Unsolder the wires from the capacitor terminals. Unscrew the screw and remove the capacitor. Unscrew screw 15, remove electric motor 25. Unscrew the screw on the block, remove connecting cord 14 and wires.Replacing the electric motor.
Unsolder the wires from the terminals of switch 24 and from the terminals of the capacitor. Unscrew screw 15 and remove electric motor 25. Install a new electric motor and assemble the device in the reverse order.
Replacing the connecting cord.
Unscrew the block screw, remove connecting cord 14 and wires. Install a new connecting cord.
Replacing the capacitor.
Unsolder the wires from the capacitor terminals. Unscrew the screw and remove the capacitor. Install a new capacitor and solder the wires.
Assembly. Remove traces of dirt from the body parts of the juicer. Reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly.
Adjustment after assembly. After assembling the lid of the electric juicer, it is necessary that the handle 6 of the ejector 12 rotates with little effort. Adjust the rotation of the handle with screw 10. The gap between the grating disk 2 and the lid hopper should be 0.5 mm. The gap is adjusted using screw 26 located on the lower shield of the electric motor. After adjustment, the screw must be secured with a nut and painted with enamel.
Inspection and testing. Visual inspection done visually. At the same time, the integrity of the assembly units is checked, appearance, completeness.
Functional testing is carried out by briefly plugging it into the electrical network. The insulation of the juicer must withstand a sinusoidal voltage of 4500 V for 1 minute.
The test voltage is applied to the interconnected pins of the cord plug and the body of the electric juicer. To check the insulation strength, a breakdown device UPU-1M or similar is used. To check the circuits of an electrical circuit, an avometer is used.
Repaired juicers must comply with the requirements of GOST R 50938-96 "Repair and Maintenance electrical household machines and appliances."
REPAIR&SERVICE-11 2000
The basis of the juicer is the engine. Today, asynchronous, commutator electric motors are used. Nothing surprising - the technology doesn’t know any others. Actually, repairing juicers with your own hands is faced with the situation of a failed engine. It is almost impossible to replace the mechanical part; devices that operate on the basis of meat grinders break the couplings if they get into a bone, plastic bushings, hydraulic presses have a lot of fuss with the oil system. Let's consider the questions, don't wait detailed guide, but we will consider the main types of faults in sufficient detail.
Juicer device
We hope that reading the review will help readers repair their chosen type of juicer themselves. Nothing complicated inside. Don't let the upcoming repair of the Scarlet juicer scare you.
Types of Electric Juicer Motors
Repair of the Rossoshanka, Santos juice extractor - the difference in the price of the product is 30 times - there is a motor inside. Rossoshanka's doesn't work long, it's noisy, the essence is the same. The properties of the juicer are determined by the design of the mechanical part.
The advantages of asynchronous motors are considered to be simplicity of design, maintenance, and high efficiency. Less noisy than collector ones, however, when powered with a voltage of 50 Hz, it is difficult to obtain speeds above 3000 per minute. Juicers consider this a serious limitation; Santos has enough large diameter centrifuges. We will similarly describe Rossoshanka, Neptune, and other domestic juicers with high productivity.
Collectors are devoid of restrictions and are obtained smaller in size. They lose out in other important ways for professional juicers:
- Noise level.
- Short period of continuous operation.
On the shaft of electric motors we see impellers that blow air over the stator coils. This is done to cool the windings during operation. If, when disassembling the juicer, it turns out that there are no elements inside, it is possible to supplement the design by wisely choosing the shape of the blades. Will soften thermal conditions functioning of the electric motor. From the above it follows: asynchronous motors are preferable for the manufacture of high-quality juicers; the problem of speed remains to be solved.
In the case of centrifuge models, the issue is mitigated by an increase in the diameter of the working chamber. As a result, with increasing distance from the axis, the centrifugal force increases. It is permissible to reduce the speed of the juicer engine without losing quality.
Each device is equipped with a set of speeds. In asynchronous motors, this is achieved by properly separating the stator coils. Not everyone works at the same time; there is a variation in speed. The scheme is often implemented and consists of correct switching electrical circuit buttons. Technical solution has great reliability, durability, and fault tolerance. On a positive note. As for the speed, you can increase it by using an inverter in the circuit. It is clear that this will lead to a significant increase in the price of the device. Smooth speed control can be achieved.
As for asynchronous motors, it will be easy to do. Can be adjusted, avoiding complex circuits. Losses are reduced if the windings are powered DC. Inductive reactances have little effect. The downside is small: you will need a complex power supply, which reduces the efficiency of the juicer. Listed key points It is necessary to clearly understand if there is a desire to replace the engine. Readers can insure themselves against winding burnout by taking the trouble to include a 135 degree Celsius thermal fuse in the circuit. The element must fit tightly to the winding. Ideally, the thermal fuse is recessed between the turns of wire. Provides heat exchange.
Forced cooling wouldn't hurt. How to do it in the case of juicers, any devices, has already been described. You can borrow a start-up relay asynchronous motor from the refrigerator, along with the motor. There are two subtleties here:
- In juicers, a starting winding is rarely used; a circuit with dividing stator coils is used.
- The motor type must match the relay; overheating protection will not work.
Issues regarding the use of engines in juicers
There is a weak point of cheap juicer models: they are not protected against engine burnout. Why not install a relay similar to that accompanying refrigerators? Complex issue, we let readers decide for themselves. Cost of other freezers an order of magnitude (!) lower than top-end juicers. The refrigerator runs day and night, avoiding begging for the required break, and does not turn off in the summer. The power of the device is considerable.
For our reasons reliable technology closer to nature, figuratively speaking. This is directly confirmed by the design of the Norwalk juicer. So in a refrigerator, often all the sensors have nothing to do with electricity, much less electronics. We need more bimetallic plates, thermocouples and other reliable and simple equipment. By the way, geysers That’s what they do, even ignition on a piezoelectric element. In this case, the equipment works for a long time, is reliable and productive. Overheating of the windings can be easily assessed by the temperature of the magnetic core. Why isn't this done in juicers? Unable to answer this question.
What about Norwalk? Do-it-yourself repair of juicers in this case is closely related to hydraulics, as was already mentioned at the beginning. Design:
- There is a high-speed engine inside.
- An auger is attached to the shaft according to the principle of operation of a meat grinder.
- The ground cake is placed in a bag and placed on the table of a hydraulic press.
- The oil cylinder is driven through a belt drive, as in washing machines Oh.
Thanks to a well-thought-out solution, the compressor is free of electrical parts. Steel block equipped with gaskets. The motor, on the contrary, is made in the best traditions of the machine. One glance is enough to understand: after 5 minutes he will not ask for rest, imitating Zelmer. In light of the above, we believe that it is enough to find a nozzle auger juicer Norwalk instead of a meat grinder, having received an excellent device for long-term operation. According to domestic GOST, this means that the equipment can withstand merciless use during a work shift (8 hours).
The hydraulic unit will need to be refilled with new oil periodically. First, the old one merges. Having removed the cylinder cover, it is necessary to remove internal mechanism With return spring, scoop out the oil. Maintaining the position, the compressor drive starts. Gradually the oil will end up in the cylinder. The new one is poured three-quarters of an inch below the cap. Not prevent air gap work? The masters say: it is powerless to damage. You will need to monitor leaks in fittings, compressor, and cylinder. Let us add that the table is returned to its original position by a spring after pressing the release valve handle.
Juicer repair: what breaks
When it comes to attachments for meat grinders, you will have to change the plastic gears and couplings. They come in quantities of 2-8 per set, sometimes you have to buy new ones. Steel gears of meat grinders and juicers are rare, and there is a risk of failure of the precious engine. You are surprised how industrial units work...
It is clear to readers that the main types of malfunctions relate to the engine. First check the power, then the continuity of the windings begins. Having localized the fault, they attempt to wind the coils again. In the case of a commutator motor, this is feasible; the stator is a dull inductor strung on a magnetic circuit. The commutator motors ring for each section position until the drum completes a full revolution. The rotor of a squirrel-cage asynchronous motor is unable to burn out. The current is small, the copper wire is often inseparable from the base of the “squirrel cage” by insulation. The design of the juicer is so primitive that the mechanics (bearings, seals, gears) and drive break down.
We have talked about repairing power supplies more than once. Pulse sources are found in expensive models equipped with the rudiments of intelligence.
A healthy lifestyle is an integral part of existence for many people. High quality and proper nutrition plays a decisive role in this matter. Therefore, for such people, buying a juicer is a pressing matter. But during operation problems may arise.
Types of juicers
On modern market kitchen appliances There are 4 types of juicers available:
- centrifugal;
- screw;
- combined;
- for citrus fruits.
They squeeze juice out of vegetables and fruits with high quality, and each model has different operating features. But, like any other equipment, a juicer can break.
Malfunctions and their elimination
There are basic malfunctions of any type of juicer:
- If the device does not turn on, then most likely there are problems with the integrity and serviceability of the cord, switch or motor winding.
- If the shaft does not rotate and the engine hums, you should loosen and secure the starter pack ties. You also need to check the bearings and add grease to them if necessary.
- If the juicer vibrates strongly, check the reliability of fastening of the grating disk and basket on the platform shaft, as well as the assembly of parts.
The engine is the basis of the juicer. There are asynchronous and commutator electric motors. Often repairs are associated precisely with a failed motor. Any type of engine is equipped with impellers, which are used to blow the stator coil. If during a breakdown it is discovered that these parts are missing, then you can buy them and install them yourself.
In addition, the performance of the electric motor can be increased. A juicer often has multiple speeds.
Juicers often do not have a starting winding, but use a coil-dividing circuit. In order for the motor protection to work, it must fully comply with the installed relay.
A wide range of juicers allows you to choose comfortable model high-quality workmanship, which will serve for a long time and if it breaks, it will not happen soon.
In order to find out the cause of the malfunction and subsequently eliminate it, it is necessary to disconnect the device from the electrical network. Then the windings are called. Next, the coil is wound onto the stator again. It should be noted that the rotor will not burn out, since the current that passes through it is quite small. The mechanism of any type of juicer is so simple that only the seals, bearings and gears are subject to damage.
Installation and repair of electric juicers
Depending on additional functions and design elements, electric juicers are divided into four categories: highest, first, second and third. Additional elements that expand the capabilities of electric juicers are:
– devices for grating raw vegetables, chopping and cutting vegetables, mixing liquids, chopping vegetables and fruits;
– electric brake;
– a device for storing the connecting cord;
– speed controller;
– additional filter for better juice purification.
Electric juicers have a non-removable connecting cord 1.5 m long. The noise level emitted by a category 1 device is no more than 74 dBA, and by a device of the highest category - no more than 72 dBA.
Let us dwell on the design of common electric juicers of the SVMR type. Its main element is the electric motor housing, in which the asynchronous electric motor is secured with four screws. A platform is secured to the electric motor shaft on pins. A mesh basket and a grating disk are screwed to the surface of the platform with a plastic nut. A plastic perforated tape is laid along the walls of the mesh basket. The body of the electric juicer is installed and fixed onto the housing with the motor, in which there is a window for loading products. On the electric drive housing there is a switch for the electric motor that rotates the mesh basket and the grating disk.
The electric juicer works as follows. Products are loaded through the loading window and fed by a pusher to the knives of the grating disc. The device turns on and grinding of products begins. Under the influence of centrifugal force, the crushed products are thrown onto the walls of the basket, the juice enters the tray through holes in the perforated tape and flows into the prepared dishes.
During operation of the electric juicer, malfunctions may occur. Some of them can be eliminated yourself (see table 22).
Table 22
Some malfunctions of the electric juicer
Installation and repair of small-sized washing machines
In small-sized washing machines of the SM type, laundry is washed under the influence of intensive circulation soap solution, which penetrates between the layers and pores of matter without mechanical impact on it. The circulation of the soap solution is created by a vortex movement, which is excited by the activator. When working, the machine is placed on a chair or stool. If you know the structure of a washing machine of this type, then you can repair it yourself and there will be no need to call a technician and spend money.
Let's consider the design of the two most common washing machines of the SM type - “Malyutka-2” and “MiniVyatka” (see Fig. 14, 15). The Malyutka-2 machine consists of a tank, a tank lid with a seal and two halves of a casing with rubber gaskets. The casing halves are fastened together with bushing screws. To prevent the screws from corroding, their heads are closed with rubber plugs. The housing contains an electric motor, relay, capacitor and switch. The switch is attached to the housing with a nut, washer and rubber nut.
Rice. 14. Diagram of a small-sized washing machine “Malyutka”
Rice. 15. Diagram of a small-sized washing machine “Mini-Vyatka”
The connecting cord passes into the housing through a rubber safety tube. The casing has a threaded flange onto which the activator body is screwed. The flange has a cuff that prevents water from leaking out. An activator is screwed onto the motor shaft. In cars produced before 1985, an activator with a left-hand thread is installed, and since 1986 - with a right-hand thread. The flange is attached to the engine using screws. The drain hole sleeve can be closed with a plastic plug or, if necessary, a drain tube with a nozzle for attaching to the machine tank is put on it. A tip is attached to the other end of the drain tube. The threaded bushing is attached to the tank with a plastic nut and a rubber ring. A sealing gasket is installed on this sleeve before installation. As for the activator assembly, its support consists of a plastic housing, a steel bushing, a rubber cuff, a steel spring and a rubber gasket. A ring is installed between the activator body and the flange. The washing machine is equipped with a hose and tongs. During operation of the machine, its plastic parts must be protected from damage. The surface of these parts should not be allowed to come into contact with active solvents (acetone, dichloroethane, etc.), as well as hot objects with temperatures above 80 °C. SM-type washing machines consist of a washing tank, an electric drive, a tank lid, an activator and a connecting cord. In this washing machine, the activator is installed in the bottom of the machine. The activator is driven by an electric motor through a belt drive. The washing machine drive is started and stopped using the time relay knob located on the control panel. The time relay allows you to adjust the washing time from 0 to 6 minutes. The operating cycle of the machine is as follows: 50 s – rotation in one direction, 10 s – break, 50 s – rotation in the other direction, 10 s – break, etc. The procedure for replacing some machine parts during repairs is given in Table 23. Table 23. The procedure for replacing some parts of SM type washing machines 
Connecting powerful three-phase motors to a single-phase network
The capacitor circuit for connecting three-phase motors to a single-phase network makes it possible to obtain no more than 60% of the rated power from the motor, while the power limit of the electrified device is limited to 1.2 kW. This is clearly not enough to operate an electric planer or electric saw, which should have a power of 1.5–2 kW. The problem in this case can be solved by using a higher power electric motor, for example, with a power of 3–4 kW. Motors of this type are designed for a voltage of 380 V, their windings are star-connected and the terminal box contains only 3 terminals. Connecting such a motor to a 220 V network leads to a reduction in the rated power of the motor by 3 times and by 40% when operating in single-phase network. Reduced power makes the engine unsuitable for work, but can be used to spin the rotor idle or with minimal load. Practice shows that most electric motors confidently accelerate to rated speed, and in this case, starting currents do not exceed 20 A.
Table 24
Values of the capacitances of the working and starting capacitors of a three-phase electric motor depending on its power when connected to a 220 V network
Rice. 16. Schematic diagram of connecting a three-phase electric motor to a 220 V network: Cp - working capacitor, Sp - starting capacitor
It is possible to transfer a powerful three-phase electric motor into operating mode by converting it to a single-phase operating mode, while receiving 50% of the rated power. Switching the motor to single-phase mode requires slight modification. Open the terminal box and determine which side of the motor housing cover the winding terminals fit on. Unscrew the bolts securing the cover and remove it from the engine housing. Find the place where the three windings are connected to a common point and solder to common point additional conductor with a cross-section corresponding to the cross-section of the winding wire. The twist with a soldered conductor is insulated with electrical tape or PVC tube, and the additional terminal is pulled into the terminal box. After this, the housing cover is replaced. During engine acceleration, a star connection of the windings is used with the connection of a phase-shifting capacitor Sp. In operating mode, only one winding remains connected to the network, and the rotation of the rotor is supported by a pulsating magnetic field. After switching the windings, the capacitor Cn is discharged through the resistor Rp. The operation of the presented circuit was tested with an AHP-100S2Y3 type engine (4 kW, 2800 rpm) installed on a homemade woodworking machine and showed its effectiveness.
Comfort and safety at home
Warm floor in the bathroom
A bathroom floor heating system is needed, perhaps, more than in any other room in the house. Together with a heated towel rail, it maintains the most comfortable microclimate in the wettest zone of the home. The temperature on the floor surface is +26 °C, and at head level +22 – +24 °C. According to experts, such a temperature distribution over the height of the room is optimal and is very difficult to achieve when using other heating devices.
In a bathroom with a heating system, even in very cold winter there are no drafts. Splashes that hit the floor dry quickly, so it always remains dry and warm and is difficult to slip on. In addition, it makes cleaning the room easier and practically eliminates the possibility of fungus appearing on the surfaces of walls and floors, which is often found in damp places in the house.
Types of floor heating systems
Today, electric and water underfloor heating systems are the most popular. They are installed both in city high-rise buildings and in country houses - if there was enough electricity and funds to pay for utilities. A small bathroom with an area of 2–4 m2 requires separate wiring with its own automatic circuit breaker and RCD with a power of about 0.2–0.5 kW. In residential buildings that were built more than 10 years ago and where substations and supply lines are designed according to old standards (approximately 2.5 kW per apartment), floor heating can only be considered as additional heating. And even then it should be used carefully, since there is a possibility of overloading the power cable (if all neighbors turn on numerous household electrical appliances at the same time). But even when the power necessary to connect electric heating is available (in modern apartments this is 7 kW), it is necessary to check whether the existing wiring allows the connection of a heated floor according to the current load. If not, we can recommend installing a system with a power of more than 2 kW through separate wiring and a separate machine.
As for the water system, this type of floor heating requires a source of hot water: a boiler running on gas, diesel fuel, coal, electricity (in regions with a warm climate, solar collectors and heat pumps can be added to this list). Therefore, it is more often used in cottages with autonomous system water heating, where in addition to the bathroom, floor heating is provided in other rooms. To install underfloor heating with water heating in a typical city apartment, you must obtain permission to connect to the hot water supply network or install a small electric boiler specifically to feed the heating system, which is unnecessarily expensive.
Electric heating
The heat source in a bathroom electric heating system is a heating cable laid in the solid floor, which turns the surface into a large heating panel that evenly radiates heat. The cable is connected to an automatic thermostat, due to which the system is controlled. The thermostat is mounted on the wall (if it has a moisture-proof design, then right in the bathroom, if not, then outside it, for example, on the light switch panel) and is the only visible part of the system. Temperature readings come to it from a temperature sensor installed, as a rule, in a special corrugated tube in the plane of the cable termination (so that it can be changed if it breaks).
All necessary equipment for an electric floor heating system is sold as a kit, consisting of a heating cable, thermostat, temperature sensor and corrugated pipe. Kits are available for installation in thick or thin screeds. When choosing equipment, you need to take into account the level to which the bathroom floor can be raised, how urgently the system needs to be put into operation, and how burdensome the economic aspect of its use is for the customer. You can install a heated floor during a bathroom renovation yourself or use the services of specialists (the equipment salesperson will tell you who to contact). In this case, it is necessary to strictly follow the manufacturer’s technological recommendations. But the system should only be connected to the power supply and grounding with the help of a qualified electrician.
The thickness of the concrete screed depends on the expected mechanical loads. To ensure uniform temperature distribution over the floor surface, it is recommended to use a screed with a thickness of at least 65 mm. As flooring in the bathroom, you should use ceramic tiles, marble or other material with a thermal resistance index of R = 0.02 m2 k/W.
Installation in a thick screed
When there are no significant restrictions on the ceiling height in the room, you can resort to traditional scheme, which involves the most efficient energy-saving conversion of electricity into heat for the bathroom, - installation of a heating system in a thick screed. If the floor in the bathroom is earthen (in cottages it is often located in the basement), then a cushion of carefully compacted gravel and waterproofing are laid on it. Naturally, gravel is not used on a ready-made concrete base; in this case, a well-cleaned and leveled floor slab serves as the “backing” for the system. A layer of rigid thermal insulation material 50–100 mm thick is placed on top, on which the first screed is made. On a not yet completely frozen concrete surface pieces of mounting tape or a reinforcing structure made of wire are attached, which greatly facilitate the laying of the cable (along a pre-planned route). Next comes the second concrete screed, its thickness with direct heating ranges from 30 to 50–70 mm. Along the perimeter of the room, in the lower part of the walls, shock absorbers are installed - strips of thermal insulation that prevent deformation of the floor when heated as a result of thermal expansion of concrete. A floor constructed using cement mixtures takes at least 28 days to dry; a floor constructed using self-leveling mixtures takes 2–3 days. Finally, a finishing coating, such as ceramic tiles, is laid on the screed.
When purchasing a set of equipment for installing an electric heating system in a thick screed, you need to keep in mind some features base element– heating cable. There are no restrictions on the diameter and linear power of the cable (that is, on its ability to transfer this or that amount of heat to the surrounding space, expressed in watts per meter of length). For installation in a thick screed, cables with a diameter of 5-10 mm with a linear power of 17 to 21 W/m, as well as “thin” 2-3 mm cables with a power of 5-12 W/m can be used. Cable turns with lower linear power are arranged closer to each other, in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. It is important that the power of the entire cable is sufficient for comfortable heating of a particular room (you can approximately determine the required power by multiplying the footage of the room by 100 W).
It also doesn’t matter which cable is included in the kit – one- or two-core (the difference between them is that two-core ones practically do not create an electromagnetic background and cost 10–20% more). The presence of an electromagnetic background in single-core systems, which in any case is no more than that of a hair dryer or hidden electrical wiring, is not dangerous, besides, a person enters the bathroom several times a day, and even then not for long.
When choosing a heating cable for a “wet” zone, you must pay attention to the fact that it must have a screen made of steel or copper wire, aluminum foil or lead, which primarily serves safety purposes. If the cable is damaged or water gets on it, the screen plays the role of a “lightning rod”; in addition, it significantly reduces the electromagnetic radiation generated by the cable. In some systems with a shielded single-core cable, the shield is also used as a supply (return) wire, but only located coaxially with the heating core, due to which the resulting electromagnetic radiation is significantly reduced.
It is characteristic that the cable included in the floor heating system is presented not as a piece of wire, but in the form of a finished product - a section with a certain length of the heating core and thermal power. For ease of installation and to increase the service life of the entire structure, the so-called cold ends - copper power conductors - are attached to a section of the heating cable in the factory, which, unlike the cable itself, can be lengthened or shortened if necessary. A section of single-core cable contains two couplings and two cold ends, while a section of two-core cable is reinforced at one end with an end cap, and at the other with a coupling and two cold ends for connection to the network (thanks to this device, laying sections of twin-core cable is easier ).
The quality of the coupling is one of the most important criteria for successful system selection. The coupling must provide reliable electrical contact for many years of cable operation and the tightness of the connecting unit. Different companies use different connection options (soldering, welding, crimping) and sealing (use of heat-shrinkable plastic, filling with polymerizing compounds). Reliability and durability are determined by both the perfection of technology and the quality of the assembly, so the best indicator here is the manufacturer’s long experience in the underfloor heating market and the period of free warranty service.
Dozens of companies are engaged in the production of heating sections based on single- and double-core cables, including CEILHIT (Spain), ALCATEL (Norway), KIMA (Sweden), DEVI (Denmark), SIEMENS (Germany), ENSTO (Finland).
Installation in a thin screed
Recently, to heat the floor in the bathroom, it has been practiced to install the cable in a thin screed (0.5–1.5 cm) - directly on top of the old tile or concrete floor. In this case, as a rule, the use of thermal insulation is abandoned. Without it, heating the bathroom will not be as economical as with a thick screed, but you will not need to sacrifice 5-10 cm of room height, which is especially important for a larger number of city apartments. And the system launch time is reduced several times. The cable is laid out in a snake or spiral and secured to the previous tile cladding. Instead of a screed, a layer of glue is applied on top, which (depending on the technology offered by the cable manufacturer) is allowed to dry for 1–2 days, and then the finishing coating is installed. Or they lay a new tile immediately, on the newly applied adhesive.
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