With the help of a walk-behind tractor, a wide variety of agricultural work is carried out, such as: plowing, mowing, planting various crops, hilling, transporting goods, etc. But for each type of work you will need a special one. In this material, we will talk about a plow, and the question arises of what to do: buy a plow, or make a plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands.
Plows are divided into several types, differing from each other in design. Today, single-body, reversible, and rotary plows are used for walk-behind tractors.
Single body plow
This plow is structurally very simple, and finding its drawings and diagrams is not a problem. Because of this simplicity, making such a plow yourself will be optimal, especially for those owners of walk-behind tractors who do not have special skills.
Making a homemade single-body plow for a walk-behind tractor will not be difficult. After all, almost everyone in their household has unnecessary pieces of metal and improvised tools.
Drawings of a plow for a walk-behind tractor
Using the experience of craftsmen who made a plow for a walk-behind tractor with their own hands and left drawings, the ploughshare should be made in such a way that it can be removed, this will make it easier to sharpen it before plowing.
Alloy steel 9ХС, from which I make blades for hand saws, is considered ideal material, for the cutting part of the plow.
Suitable steel grade 45, when hardened, brought to a hardness of HRC 50-55. If you only have ordinary steel at hand, say carbon St5ps, which cannot be heat treatment, then having beaten the cutting edge on an anvil and sharpened it, it is quite suitable for cultivating the soil.
Plow blade for walk-behind tractor
The moldboard of the plow is the part that takes the earth to the side.
The first method of making a blade:
The working surface of the blade must be given a curved shape. If you have a metal bending machine or sheet bending rollers, then giving the workpiece the desired shape will not be difficult.
A metal blank with a thickness of 3-5 mm is required, the rollers are directed at an angle of 20-22 degrees, as shown in the drawing, and the desired bend is given.
Second way:
Here, prepared. A pipe with a diameter of 600-650 mm can serve (this is the diameter that will require less labor, since the bend of the pipe will maximally repeat the desired bend of the future dump) and a thickness of 3-5 mm. We make a template from cardboard and apply it to the pipe, not forgetting the angle of 20-22 degrees, as shown in the drawing below.
We outline the template with a pencil or chalk and cut it out using gas. welding, if necessary, grind the workpiece and bring it to the desired condition.
Third way:
Probably the most difficult method of making a moldboard is when the workpiece is heated and, using a matrix, given the desired shape, which can be a moldboard from another plow.
The plow body material is steel sheet grades St3 - St10 with a thickness of 3 mm.
Drawing of plow parts for walk-behind tractor
a - alloy steel ploughshare;
b - side shield of the rack, St3;
c - spacer plate, St3;
g - plow base plate, St3;
d - field board, corner 30x30 mm;
e - stand, pipe with a diameter of 42 mm
We advise you to first make the plow parts from cardboard and attach them to each other at the required angles. Thus, the values of the angle α on different parts of the plow body will be from 25° to 130°, the values of the angle γ - from 42° to 50°. If homemade model plow made of cardboard satisfied you in all respects, you can move on to working with metal.
When the metal parts of the plow are ready, you need to find an additional sheet of steel 3 mm thick, 600x600 mm in size, it will be needed to assemble the plow, and welding machine(preferably an inverter). On this sheet we retreat 40 mm from the edges and measure the angle γ0.
Plow assembly
2 - side shield of the rack;
3 - additional sheet 2-3 mm
Using wedges with an angle α0=25 degrees and an angle γ0=42 degrees, a ploughshare is installed on the additional sheet and tacked to the sheet by welding, pointwise on both sides.
The side shield of the rack is connected to the ploughshare vertically so that its edge extends beyond the ploughshare by 4-7 mm, while the raised shield should be higher than the blade of the ploughshare (that is, higher than the additional sheet) by 6-8 mm, so as not to interfere with the ploughshare, cut the ground. The shield is also attached to the ploughshare and to the additional sheet.
Mounting the plow share
Countersunk head screw M8;
Base plate;
Corner 30x30x90 mm;
Nut M8
If it is found that the corners and/or surfaces do not correspond, the blade is adjusted using a hammer. After fitting the blade to the ploughshare, it is welded from the back to the ploughshare and to the side shield. Then the side shield is welded to the spacer bar and the base plate; the thrust corners for the ploughshare are attached to the latter by welding.
Homemade rotary plow for walk-behind tractor
The rotary plow is versatile. As you know, when plowing the soil with a single-furrow plow, in one pass the soil layer is turned over by the ploughshare in one direction. To turn the earth in the same direction during a second pass, you have to return to the beginning of the previous row and start from the same side of the site.
A rotating plow will allow you to plow much faster - at the end of the row, after turning the walk-behind tractor, simply turn the ploughshare in the other direction and continue cultivating the soil.
How to install a plow on a walk-behind tractor
Before you begin setting up and installing the plow, you need to prepare the walk-behind tractor itself. The installation begins with the installation of the walk-behind tractor at the work site, the wheels are dismantled and the lugs are installed. (Cm. ). The lugs give the walk-behind tractor better grip on the soil, eliminating slipping.
Next, we begin the installation; it is recommended not to tighten the nuts too much, for further adjustment if necessary. Then he fixes the hitch to the mounting system of the walk-behind tractor with two steel pins. After completing these manipulations, you can begin adjusting the plow.
Adjusting the plow on a walk-behind tractor
Adjustment of the plow on the walk-behind tractor is carried out with maximum adherence to the instructions, because the quality of further work depends on this. This is done in stages:
To balance, place the walk-behind tractor on wheels on a flat surface. Adjusting the stands determines the depth of penetration of the plow into the ground, so you need to plow frozen soil no deeper than 15-20 mm, and spring soil, 20-23 mm.
After adjusting and securing the plow, the walk-behind tractor is removed from the platform and placed on the ground.
To check the correct adjustment of the plow, test plowing is carried out, measuring the depth of the furrows and the correctness of the soil dump to the side; if necessary, adjustments are made.
Video of plow adjustment on a walk-behind tractor
Tips for setting up your plow for use
Do-it-yourself Zykov plow
Below are photos of Zykov’s hand-made plow. The plow has an angle of attack, like on tractors, i.e. very big. In principle, the drawings of Zykov’s plow are those that are presented in the paragraph about the single-hull plow.
Video: do-it-yourself plow for a walk-behind tractor
The video talks about converting a plow into a walk-behind tractor.
Making a homemade plow is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. Despite the appearance simple design, For proper operation it is necessary to maintain the geometry of the plow correctly, otherwise all efforts will be in vain.
Preparing tools and materials for work
Designing a plow with your own hands requires a clear plan of action and selection the right tools and materials. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with the finished product drawings in advance. Besides, homemade product for cultivating land should be simple in design and efficient in use.
For the manufacture of standard version For your own plow you will need the following:
- ploughshare or steel billet;
- perforator;
- steel material for the manufacture of blades and field boards;
- welding inverter;
- angle grinder;
- fasteners, in the form of a set of bolts and nuts;
- metal stand for making a plow base.
When gripping a layer of soil over 25 cm, the surface and material of the plow are subjected to heavy loads, which can result in rapid wear of the product. It is best to choose carbon steel 9ХС or hardened steel 45 with a thickness of 4-5 mm as the workpiece material.
The plow (shown in the photo below) is one of the main parts of the plow. For ease of use, it is better to make it removable; it will be easier to sharpen.
Next, we begin manufacturing the working part of the plow body, which is responsible for lifting the soil and turning it into the furrow. There are several ways to make the dump part. The contact surface of the dump side has the shape of a cylinder. Using bending equipment, producing such a workpiece will not be very difficult.
If you don’t have the equipment, metal shears or electric gas welding devices will do. On bending machine The workpiece is fed onto the shafts at an angle of 20-23 degrees, and a selected punch is used to give the desired radius.
Another option involves the availability of a finished pipe with a diameter of 0.55-0.6 m and a wall thickness of 3-5 mm. A template is made from ordinary cardboard to cover the required area of the pipe, along the contour of which the required shape is cut out using electric gas welding equipment.
To eliminate bulges and burrs, use a hammer and file. The most difficult method of manufacturing a plow is considered to be the production of a blank in a metallurgical furnace, followed by straightening with the finished matrix (sometimes a tractor plow blade is used).
The blank for the product body is a sheet of steel with a carbon content of 0.03 to 0.1%, with a thickness of at least 3 mm. To maintain the dimensions, it is recommended to first assemble the model from cardboard, and then take on the metal base.
Assembling a homemade product
After all the elements of the future plow are ready, to complete the work you will need a 0.5 x 0.5 m metal sheet and a welding inverter. They are welded to the workpiece with certain angular dimensions plow parts: plow and side shield. The moldboard part is applied to the surface of the ploughshare.
If the angles are calculated incorrectly, the plow blade is brought to correct form using a hammer, then by welding it is attached to the back of the ploughshare and to the side shield. Afterwards, a spreading bar and a base in the form of a plate are installed on the shield, on which the corners for the ploughshare are attached.
The assembled home-made product for tillage is carefully inspected for all welded joints and, if there are no defects, all seams are finally welded.
Upon completion of assembly and welding work The auxiliary sheet is removed using an angle grinder or available metalworking tools. Places welded joints require mandatory cleaning, and the blade and plowshare are treated with sandpaper for standard roughness.
To set the product in motion, it must be attached to a walk-behind tractor. A similar design can be used when constructing a plow for mini tractors. The only difference will be in the dimensions and geometric dimensions, depending on what type of mini tractor the product is designed for.
Plow construction with my own hands in addition to acquiring certain skills, it will significantly help reduce the labor intensity when working on your site.
DIY plow photo
“I made a walk-behind tractor paired with a transport trolley (thanks to M-K!). And now, as they say, taking or delivering something around the house is not a problem for me. But I still haven’t acquired a good plow. I’m waiting for detailed material to appear on the pages of the magazine I love so much about how to calculate and make such a plow yourself.” The editorial office receives many similar requests and wishes. Apparently, from those subscribers who were unable to familiarize themselves with the magazine’s previous publications on topics of interest to them (see, for example, “M-K” 1’88, 3’89, 9’90, 5’91, 10’91). And therefore - a new publication dedicated to the ancient and, as life itself testifies, the ageless tool of the farmer.
Historians date the invention of the plow to the end of the fourth millennium BC. It was then that they thought of using a sharp, strong branch to loosen the soil. Hence the word “plow”, which translated from Sumerian means nothing more than “ploughman’s tree”. And the metal tip for this weapon was invented in Ancient Egypt, having received, in fact, a subsoiler with a sole formed by a horizontally placed ploughshare, but without a blade. The latter appeared in the design of the plow only during the times of the Roman Empire and is clearly in no hurry to give up its gained positions (see illustrations).
With all the diversity contained in it technical solutions a modern plow consists mainly of working parts, auxiliary units and mechanisms. A knife (disk, as shown in the figure, or a handle, reproduced earlier in the magazine - see, for example, “M-K” 5’91) cuts off a layer of soil equal to the working width of the body. Skimmer removes upper layer, covered with plant debris, weeds and their seeds, lays it at the bottom of the furrow formed during the previous pass. The body cuts a layer from below equal to the width of its grip, tears it off from the unplowed field, wraps it and crumbles it, moves it to the side and throws it into the furrow. The subsoiler at the rear of the body loosens the plowed layer of soil without throwing it to the surface. Well, auxiliary components and mechanisms provide all technological process plowing performed by the working parts (in this case, three) of the implement.
In small-sized agricultural machinery (mini-tractors, walk-behind tractors), from the set of working parts discussed above, sometimes only the body is used. And the number of auxiliary components and mechanisms in order to simplify and reduce the cost of the plow is often reduced to a minimum. How this was done, for example, in the design published in No. 4 of the magazine in 1984.
The ploughshare and the moldboard of the body form its common ploughshare-mouldboard surface of a certain geometric shape. As practice shows, an important task is to choose it best option, based technological requirements soil cultivation, kinematic and energy conditions, as well as the real capabilities available to the designer and manufacturer of the plow. Right down to construction materials, the availability of machine tools, gas-electric welding, mini-forges, etc.
1 – knife, 2 – skimmer, 3 – body, 4 – subsoiler.
1 – cylindrical. 2 - cultural (transitional), 3 - half-screw, 4 - helical surface, 5 - body with replaceable chest. 6 - cut-out, 7 - disk, 8 - roller, 9 - with a rotor.
1 - trapezoidal, 2 - chisel-shaped, 3 - with a welded cheek in the front part, 4 - toothed, 5 - with a retractable chisel.
1 - cylindrical, 2 - screw, 3 - cylindrical types.
1 - trapezoidal, 2 - chisel-shaped.
1 - base (“demolished” factory-made ploughshare), 2 - welded toe tooth (a piece of spring leaf from a ZIL-150 car), 3 - welded tooth of a straight section of the ploughshare (from a discarded spring from a GAZ-51 car, 2 pcs.).
1 - worn blade (from a rejected PP-40 or other plow), 2 - defective part, 3 - development of the moldboard of a homemade plow.
Many people choose the plow general purpose. Moreover, they try to use bodies with a cylindrical (see figure), or even a cultivated plowshare-mouldboard surface. When plowing, such plows crumble well, but do not cover the layer completely enough. That is why they are used mainly for cultivating old-arable soils, which middle lane Russia, as you know, is not deprived.
Housings with a semi-helical plowshare-mouldboard surface are better at wrapping, but they loosen the formation worse. They are used to treat soddy old plowed, drained peat and swamp soils. Bodies with screw plowshare-mouldboard surfaces plow virgin, fallow, meadow and other heavy soils, as they wrap the formation well. Much less often they turn to cases with a replaceable chest, cut-out, disk, with a rotor, etc.
Each of the above designs has its own advantages. And accordingly - their shortcomings. For example, a roller blade reduces friction losses, but it is complex in design. And the high-speed dumps of other buildings, widely advertised in a number of places, turn out to crumble the soil more intensively and lay it more densely on the field surface, which, in turn, leads to a significant increase in energy costs.
Or take plowshares. The most widespread, as statistics show, are trapezoidal and chisel-shaped structures (see illustrations). Working in difficult conditions, cutting off a layer of soil and directing it to a dump, they quickly wear out and break. Toothed shares are more difficult to manufacture. But they reduce the traction resistance of the body, since tearing off a layer requires significantly less force than cutting off the soil. For work in particularly difficult conditions, plowshares with a welded cheek in the front part are used. And when cultivating particularly dense soils or deep plowing, plowshares with a retractable chisel show good results. Naturally, all this cannot be ignored. As, indeed, there are differences in the designs of field boards and housing racks, due to certain requirements or operating conditions.
And further. It is easy to notice that the basis of the plow body is (see illustrations) a triangular wedge ABCO, the parameters of which are largely decisive in the design of a specific structure, giving it certain operational and technological properties.
In particular, angle a, located in the longitudinal-vertical plane, promotes bending and crumbling of the soil layer. With the help of angle B, which lies in the transverse-vertical plane, the formation is wrapped. And the angle y, located in the horizontal plane, helps to move the latter to the side. In this case, the layer bends and crumbles accordingly. The indicated parameters of a trihedral wedge are interconnected by a trigonometric relationship:
Consequently, here you can arbitrarily change only two angles, and the third is determined from the values of the first two. The conclusion for the designer is important. As well as the fact that the triangular wedge in question, depending on a change in one or another of its parameters, can acquire a plow-mouldboard surface of a plow body of a certain type (see illustrations): cylindrical with the development of angle a, helical with a corresponding change in angle B and cylindrical - with the development of angles a and y of standard plow bodies. Their geometric parameters, developed for serial walk-behind tractors and mini-tractors, we strongly recommend that you adhere to when designing homemade walk-behind tractors:
Several are known practical ways construction of plowshare-mouldboard surfaces of plow bodies. The simplest of them involves the movement of the horizontal generatrix AB along two guide parabolas 1-1′ and 2-2′, which are located respectively in the plane of the furrow wall and in a plane parallel to it at a distance of the working width of the body. To select the parameters of the guides, it is necessary to specify some values and determine others by calculation or experiment.
In particular, it was established: some parameters of the plow body depend on the width of the processed layer, resistivity and soil density, movement speed and a number of other factors. Based on this, the length of the share with sufficient accuracy for practice is determined by the ratio:
When calculating a plow, another equally valuable, according to experts, ratio will be useful, according to which the working width of the designed body should exceed the possible plowing depth by 1.5 times. This is necessary for normal formation turnover. The use of a skimmer in the design leads to a reduction in the fraction just mentioned. But on small-sized tillage implements, skimmers, as already noted, are usually not used. And this should, naturally, be taken into account.
Armed with the above premises and mathematical formulas, it is possible to develop plows that best meet modern agricultural requirements, characteristic features specific small-sized equipment, one or another soil-climatic zone. Beginners are advised to focus on the geometric parameters of the serial prototype, as well as on samples of structures produced for industrial mini-tractors and walk-behind tractors.
Of course, blind copying of a plow you like for one reason or another is not prohibited. Including taking advantage of ready-made developments from those successful designs that different time appeared on the pages of M-K. But it’s better to approach the matter creatively, adopting the ideas of the most interesting technical solutions. For example, the shape of the handle knife, field board and plowshare-mouldboard surface with the corresponding tabular data, as well as the principle of operation of the rotary mechanism, published in the fifth issue of the magazine for the year 199).
A lot of valuable things can be gleaned, say, from the design of a homemade plow, the body of which is made from an old skimmer discarded as unnecessary with welded steel plates (see “M-K” 3/B9). And how many interesting things a beginning DIYer (and not only) will find for himself in the material published in No. 1 of the magazine for 1988, where the method of making a ploughshare, blade and blade support from a piece of... 550 mm pipe is described with sufficient completeness!
Anyone who is well acquainted with blacksmithing will be quite capable of making an excellent, it must be said, ploughshare from a worn-out ploughshare, but with a reserve of metal on the back side. The required dimensions and configuration are achieved here by hot cutting (dimensions L and L1 - see illustrations - calculated) and a forge pull. To do this, the discarded ploughshare is placed flat in the forge and its blade is slowly heated to a width of 70-80 mm to a temperature of 500-600 ° C (until a glow appears), after which the heating rate is gradually increased. Bring it to 1100-1200°C (light yellow heat color). Moreover, in order not to expose the metal to the danger of burning, to prevent the bond between the grains of steel from being disrupted and its fragility to increase, usually only that section of the ploughshare, which is in this moment subject to cutting or bracing. The remaining surface is covered with fresh coal (to reduce heat loss and at the same time to prevent carbon from burning out from the surface layer of the metal and, consequently, reducing its hardness).
The pulling of the ploughshare is stopped as soon as the temperature drops to 800″C (light-cherry heat color). Otherwise, cracks may appear. Therefore, in order to prevent repeated heating that is harmful to the metal, they try to pull the ploughshare “without delays.” Then the work of fine-tuning each section of the future product can be done with one heating.
During the pull, the curvature of the surface of the share changes. Sometimes the mounting holes in it also shift. Therefore, the product needs to be adjusted in shape, which is usually done on a concave mandrel with a shank mounted in an anvil. The mandrel is made using a new ploughshare. The curvature of the surface is determined by the clearance between the blade and the plate: for a chisel-shaped product, the clearance should be about 3-5 mm. As for the displacement of the mounting holes, it is eliminated by settling at the end and corresponding straightening of the back of the share.
The ploughshare, which has been pulled out but has not yet cooled down, is clamped in a vice and its blade is filed down. And when it has cooled down, it is sharpened using sandpaper from the front (working) surface. The width of the ribbon (chamfer) should reach 5-6 mm, while the thickness of the blade should be 0.5-1.0 mm. Moreover, there is no need to sharpen it finer. Otherwise, the blade may warp during hardening, and during operation, chipping may occur.
To harden, the ploughshare is first heated to B00-840°C (light cherry color of heat) along the entire length of the blade by 1/3 of the width. Then they are lowered back down into salted (1-1.5 kg/l) water heated to 30-40’C. And the chisel-shaped ploughshare, before immersion in brine It also needs additional cooling. This is done to avoid cracks, for which a wet rag is applied for 2-3 seconds at the transition point from the blade to the toe.
And one more feature, this time common to both types of ploughshare. To reduce the fragility of the product after hardening, tempering is carried out at a temperature of 350°C, followed by cooling in air. The degree of heating here is judged by the color of the tarnish.
The quality of hardening is determined with a file: it should not leave visible marks on the blade of the ploughshare. This corresponds to 444-653 Brinell units. After checking the hardness of the blade, use a ruler to check the straightness of the ploughshare.
The design of the toothed ploughshare seems very promising. After all, it works 7-10 times longer than standard ones when plowing dry soils. Moreover, the teeth are made from discarded automobile springs and welded to the base (its front side) at the same distance from each other (see figure). The angle of inclination of the front edge of the teeth to the cutting edge of the blade is 4B°. The teeth are sharpened at the top, at an angle of 45°.
Cutting teeth from spring leaves is facilitated by heating the latter in blacksmith's forge up to temperature B50-1000°C ( Orange color heat). Heat treatment also helps when a homemaker implements another equally valuable idea: making a moldboard from a thoroughly worn-out body of a serial plow (see illustration). As practice shows, other knowledge and skills will not be superfluous or unclaimed. So go for it, and your hard work and perseverance in achieving your goal will be rewarded handsomely.
V. MONTAKOV, Candidate of Technical Sciences, Associate Professor pedagogical institute, Armavir, Krasnodar region
A motor cultivator belongs to the category of garden machines that mechanize soil cultivation. The main executive element of the product is a set of rotating cutters that loosen the soil layer and move the cultivator around the site.
Cultivator as a traction unit for a plow
The main condition for such a combination of mechanisms is the creation of sufficient traction force for the operation of the plow share.
- Lightweight garden cultivators with engine power up to 3 HP. With. and weighing 15-40 kg can easily cope with loosening a garden area of up to 60 acres, but will not provide effective work trailed implements.
- Medium and heavy cultivators with weight parameters from 40 kg and a power unit from 4.5 liters. With. power will successfully process up to 2 hectares of dense soil land plot.
On such machines it is advisable to install additional trailed equipment to expand their functionality.
What should you consider?
For correct selection materials, manufacturing of the plow itself, elements of its attachment to the cultivator, it is necessary to understand the operating principles of the devices and know their basic parameters.
Plow
When applied to a landmass, it turns over the top layer of soil. Plowing removes weeds from the soil and damages them root system. The soil is loosened, making sowing cultivated plants effective and increasing germination.
Mover
The motor cultivator moves around the area due to the rotation of circular cutters. This method is not suitable for towing a plow. The cutters are replaced with metal wheels with lugs. To increase the traction of the wheels with the ground, additional weights can be placed inside the wheels.
Cultivator transmission
It does not require any special modifications, but the unit was originally designed to work with a cutter. The feed speed may be excessive for the plow, and the wheels may spin (slip). In this case, it is useful to install a speed reducer - a pulley. larger diameter on the engine crankshaft. 
Mounting elements
The hitch is used to connect the cultivator platform with a plow, hiller, and potato digger. Products are standardized under different models one manufacturer.
To increase the stability of the machine and take into account the characteristics of the land, sometimes it is necessary to increase the lug track, which is solved by installing axle extensions.
Do-it-yourself plow for a cultivator
A home craftsman, possessing skills in working with metal-cutting and welding equipment, can independently make a plow and its suspension parts using used metal products.
How to make a plow?
Parameters of the manufactured unit:
- trailed type;
- plowing depth – 0.25 m;
- strip width 0.25 m;
- travel speed – up to 4 km/h;
- productivity – up to 0.06 ha per hour.
General diagram of the device
The ploughshare is made of removable steel 9ХС with a thickness of 3 mm. The fastening bolts are installed in a “concealed” manner. The blade blank is cut from steel 3 with a thickness of 3 mm. The part is fed onto the rollers of the sheet bending machine at an angle of 20°.
The stand, heel, and other elements are made of steel strip and corner profile. The dimensions are specified during the trial assembly, the joining angles of the elements are shown in the sketch: 
After full adjustment components The seams of the product are finally connected by electric welding, cleaned and polished with a grinder.
Figure 3 shows an option for installing a second plow on a stand, which makes it possible to eliminate idle runs of the unit to the beginning of the strip when plowing in parallel rows.
How to install a plow?
The procedure for installing the plow on the cultivator is as follows:
- The cutters on the shaft of the executive body are dismantled.
- Wheel lugs are installed, and if necessary, extensions are mounted on the shaft.
- Plow assembly:
- align the hole in the hitch with the middle hole in the plow stand and connect with a bolt;
- install the adjustment device assembly on the rack and hitch;
- connect the hitch and the cultivator platform with pins.
- Plow adjustment:
- install the cultivator and plow on stands;
- Rotate the adjusting screw to set the angle of inclination from the heel to the toe of the ploughshare. Raising the heel up increases the plowing depth, lowering it decreases it;
- the distance from the heel to the ground is regulated by rearranging the bolt securing the hitch to the plow stand - it should not be more than 3–5 cm, otherwise the plow will “burrow”;
- We finally fix the fastening connections.
A motor cultivator and a homemade plow are ready for work.
To cultivate even a small plot of land requires significant physical effort. You can, of course, use an ordinary shovel, but it is much more effective to use a walk-behind tractor. With this technique you can quickly perform different types tillage. Naturally, the main element here is a plow, which you can buy or make yourself. When purchasing a walk-behind tractor, it is often impossible to buy attachments for it at once. The cost of a mounted plow is 800−6000 rubles. This difference in prices is explained by the type, quality and degree of complexity of the plows. A homemade plow for a walk-behind tractor costs much less. Let's see how to make a plow yourself.
Advantages
There are certain advantages to making your own plow for a walk-behind tractor. The parameters of the blade and plowshare will meet the requirements for processing specific soil. These parameters include:
- blade angle;
- depth and quality of plowing;
- efficiency;
- capture area.
Taking into account the power of the walk-behind tractor, it is possible to make a plow that will not put excessive load on the engine and will not cause slipping, but its grip will be maximum. We only need quality materials, which can significantly increase the service life of the tool. It is useful to provide the possibility of attaching attachments that significantly expand functionality.
Plow design
If we talk about the Neva walk-behind tractor, several types of plows are installed on it, each of which has its own design features.
Now the ground is on personal plots processed with plows of the following designs:
- single-hull;
- negotiable;
- rotary.
The most popular are single-hull guns. In addition, such a plow is considered the most optimal for plowmen without skills.
At the top of the reversible plow there is a curved feather, which allows you to immediately turn over the layer of earth during the plowing process. This feature makes the design An excellent option for cultivating hard soils. Since the design of such a plow is quite complex, only an experienced person can make it.
The rotary plow is the most difficult to manufacture. In design, it is more reminiscent of a cultivator, since there are several shares on one axis. When cultivating the soil, the axis rotates, due to which the soil layer turns over. The advantage of the design is that the soil can be cultivated to a depth of up to 30 cm with little effort. With the help of a rotary plow, plowing of the site can be done along different trajectories.
So, the single-hull plow is the most widely used, and anyone can work with it, even those not familiar with mechanized plowing. The advantage is that this tool is quite easy to make with your own hands.
Rotary plow
This is a stand to which two plowshares are welded: cutting and turning and folding soil. For greater rigidity of the ploughshare tipping the earth, a corner is welded at the top, which rests against the upper edge of the tipper.
If you make it yourself, you can make a simpler unit for rearranging the plowing depth. The crossbar connected to the stand with bolts is welded to the plow and made longer. No boxes needed. At the front, a bracket is attached to the cross member, into which additional vertical stand, the size of which is sufficient to leave the zone of turning over soil.
In the vertical small square rack at the front, several holes are drilled for bolts, through which the rod coming from the walk-behind tractor at an angle of 90° is secured at the required height. The rod is attached to this front strut by two welded plates with eyes. The two inserted bolts are secured with nuts. They connect the rack and traction. This connection is simpler and more efficient. Plowing depth can be adjusted.
To prevent the soil from getting stuck in the gap, a thin sheet of tin is welded between the lower and upper plowshare, which will help the soil move smoothly and quickly along an arc and turn over in a layer.
Rotary plow Zykov
The reinforcement of the plowshares in this case is made with strips of steel on bolts. Below and above - at an angle. Economical and simple. A rod with a welded fixture holds two shares with racks that are inserted into the fixture. The bundle assembly is held in place by two locking bolts. For stability, a wheel is attached to the chassis.
Plow structural elements
Making your own manual plow is not a problem today. Moreover, there are many drawings of a wide variety of designs on the Internet.
So, to make a tool for plowing the land you will need the following:
The main thing to follow when making a plow is to strictly follow the instructions and adhere to the parameters of the selected drawing. Even a small detail that seems at first glance can have a significant impact on the characteristics of the weapon or subsequently negatively affect its operating parameters.
Assembly
The first thing to make is the frame, which can be made from metal pipe with a cross section of 40×52 mm and a wall thickness of about 7 mm. To form the fork, the wide walls of the frame are cut off, which are located opposite each other. Then the middle is marked on the frame, where the transverse beam will be installed and the lug posts to which the drawbar is attached will be welded. At the beginning of the fork (in the front of the frame) there is a hole that is welded tightly to prevent dirt from entering.
Rack Mount
To secure the plow stand in the wide part of the pipe used to create the frame, 16x31 mm holes are drilled or cut out on both sides. Through holes Ø10.2 mm are also made in the narrow walls of the frame for attaching the handle using M 10 bolts. The handles are made separately from pipe approximately half an inch in diameter. You can use an old one for this purpose. water pipe, which is flattened on both sides with a sledgehammer. Holes Ø10.2 mm are drilled in the resulting planes and bolted to the frame. For greater rigidity, a crossbar is welded between the handles.
Plow hitch
Hitch - important element , which provides reliable fastening of the mounted plow to the Neva. The most popular is the U-shaped channel mount, installed under the steering wheel of a walk-behind tractor. When creating the hitch, holes are drilled to attach the mounting pin and bracket. The mounting bracket is located at the top or bottom so that it does not interfere with hanging.
Manufacturing and fastening of working elements
The main elements of a single-hull design are a plowshare and a blade. To make them, you need durable sheet steel 3-5 mm thick. The ploughshare is made first, what is it used for? old disk from circular saw, made of high strength steel. For sharpening cutting edge it is beaten with a ploughshare on an anvil. Next, a dump is made from a metal pipe Ø50−60 cm and a wall thickness of about 5 mm. A template is made from cardboard or thick paper, which is applied to the metal and outlined with chalk. Along the resulting lines, a workpiece is cut out using gas welding, which is brought to required sizes“grinder” or hammer and emery.
Final stage
After creating all metal parts plow for final assembly requires a metal sheet of 50×50 cm, as well as electric welding machine. The elements of the future plow are lightly welded to the sheet, with strict adherence to the angles: the side shield and the ploughshare, to which the blade is fitted. If there are inconsistencies , the blade is brought to the required condition using a hammer and is welded to the back of the share.
If no defects are noticed during inspection, you can proceed to major welding. A metal sheet, on which the assembly was carried out, is disconnected from the structure with a “grinder” or a hammer and chisel. Next, the weld seams are carefully cleaned, sandpaper The ploughshare and blade are polished. When the structure is assembled and almost ready for use, it is painted, especially the welded joints. This will add aesthetics and protect the metal from corrosion, which means it will significantly extend the service life of the product.
How to make a plow with your own hands for a walk-behind tractor is not very easy; at least minimal experience with plumbing tools is required. During manufacturing, it is imperative to adhere to the working drawing and all prescribed instructions. Let's add that self-production A plow will save money because most of the materials can be found on the farm.