How to make a folding round table. We make a table from solid wood with our own hands: from choosing the material to final assembly. Table with X-shaped legs

If you dream of having a good time on your personal plot, then you just need big table, which can accommodate a group of your friends and family. Moreover, you can do it with your own hands, spending very little time on it. In some cases you may need a helper, sometimes an extra pair of hands won't hurt.

This article provides detailed step-by-step instructions for making a wooden table for a summer house.

So that you have a choice, we offer you four options for country table designs - two ordinary picnic tables, a table with benches, which are a single structural whole, and, finally, a round table. You should think through all the details in advance and choose the type and size of table that would suit your needs and the style of your garden plot.

Folding picnic tables - mobility comes first

Folding tables are very convenient, and most importantly practical and simple. They don't take up much space. At any moment, such a table can be neatly folded into the garage, and, if necessary, again moved outside. The mobility of furniture is especially appreciated in small areas.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands

A dacha is the place where a craftsman, a carpenter, a carpenter, a gardener, in general, a master, awakens in a person. Buying furniture for a country plot is a simple matter, but not everyone can make a wooden table for their dacha with their own hands. You should immediately be prepared for the fact that it will take you several days to make a garden table with your own hands. But the tips listed below will help you make a good-quality table yourself.

Today we will build a fairly simple country table with our own hands in the Provencal style. These tables not only look great, but also have a fairly reliable design. It's worth paying attention to the boards. They must be even, since the appearance of our country table will directly depend on this.

When designing a table for a summer house, it is necessary to prepare lumber in three dimensions:

• Supporting frame - section 38 x 90 mm.
• Tabletop - section 38 X 140 mm.
• Supporting strips - section 19 X 64 mm.

1. Drawing

Before starting work, the most important thing is to find it on the Internet, or make your own drawings of a table for a summer house with your own hands. An accurate schematic designation will allow you to select lumber that will be most suitable in cross-section to the dimensions indicated on the diagram. It doesn’t matter if the dimensions don’t exactly match each other, because you can always make an adjustment using an electric planer.

1. Preparation of material

When deciding how to make a garden wooden table, approach the issue responsibly, since the life of the furniture will depend on this:

• purchase of blanks. Professionals advise purchasing lumber from coniferous trees that has been well dried beforehand. Its main advantages are:
  • price;
  • simplicity and ease of manual processing;
  • beautiful structure;
• furniture glue;
• 4 X 65 mm screws;
• 3 mm drill;
• drill;
• tape measure, pencil, sandpaper.

1. Further actions

We will need:

• two upper transverse beams, dimensions 38 X 90 X 978 mm;
• four legs for a country table with your own hands, size 38 X 90 X 695 mm;
• two bowstrings - 38 X 90 X 921 mm;
• one longitudinal lower and one upper beam - 38 X 90 X 1575 mm and 38 X 90 X 1473 mm, respectively;
• two pieces of braces 38 X 90 X 772 mm;
• blanks for the tabletop - seven pieces, measuring 38 x 90 x 2337 mm;
• six support strips - 19 X 64 X 432 mm.

Advice: start work on a flat surface. It is extremely necessary to observe the joining angles of the parts. The blanks, which will later become the legs of our country table, should be cut on both sides at an angle of 10°. The cuts must be parallel. But the bowstring blanks, which are similarly cut at the same angle, should be cut one towards the other.

Stage 2. The legs of our country table should be attached to the cross beams and this entire structure should be fastened with screws. There are two screws for each connection.

We screw the string diagonally to the leg from the inside, in the same way fastening the structure with two screws.

The lower beam must be used to connect both strings to each other. As mentioned above, using screws.

Next, holes are first made in the upper longitudinal and transverse beams for a fastener called a dowel, after which we again diagonally connect the blanks of our country wooden table with existing screws.

Tip: when connecting all the elements, use glue for additional strength. Remove excess immediately.

We place the braces on the screws.

Tip: blanks intended for braces should first be cut at an angle of 45 degrees

We fasten the blanks for the table top with screws to the cross beams with our own hands.

How to make a rectangular table for a garden

After developing a work plan and approving the drawings of the garden table, purchase all the materials needed for this project. Choose wood intended for use on outdoors- pine, cedar, redwood or pressed wood. When purchasing, check each board: they must be completely smooth and without any visible defects. Do not skimp on the quality of lumber, because your structure will have to withstand all weather adversity.

There are a few important points, which you must take into account if you want the result to be high professional level. We must not forget about the accuracy of measurement and the use of professional tools when cutting boards and bars and drilling holes. To increase the reliability of the structure, you can additionally use waterproof glue to fasten the parts. Round open edges using a router or sandpaper.

Attention! Dimensions are converted from the inch system and may not correspond to the metric measurement system. Choose lumber that is as close in size as possible. Or just customize it yourself.

Tools required to implement the project:

• hacksaw, jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• drill and drill bits;
• chalk cord, tape measure, spirit level, pencil;
• safety glasses and gloves.

Time:

• From one day to a week depending on the chosen project. If you have power tools at your disposal, you can finish the job even faster - in just a few hours.

Adviсe:

• A router will help smooth the edges of wooden blocks and boards.
• Before screwing in screws and self-tapping screws, drill into wooden elements design guide holes.
• The heads of the screws that are screwed in should not protrude above the wooden surface, and for this, the entrance parts of the holes must be countersunk.
• Do not use cracked or warped lumber.
• Do not use excessive force when tightening the screws, otherwise the wood may crack.

DIY picnic table. Step-by-step instruction

Materials:

• A - Legs: 5x10 cm bars, 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) and 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
• B - Frame: bars 5x10 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.);
• C - Tabletop: boards 5×15 cm, length 180 cm (6 pcs.);
• D - Tabletop base: boards 5x15 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.), bars 5x10 cm, length 62 cm (2 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is making the table legs. Saw off the bars of the required size. To speed up the process, you can use a circular saw. Smooth the edges of the bars and cut lines sandpaper.

Connect the bars to form an X-shaped structure and fasten them with 60 mm self-tapping screws, not forgetting to pre-drill the guide holes. Lubricate the joints with glue. Make sure there are no cracks or gaps.

Fasten each pair of legs with a horizontal block, using 60 mm self-tapping screws for this purpose. Cut off the ends of the bars as shown in the figure.

Place the boards intended for making the tabletop on a flat surface. We advise you to place pieces of 6 mm plywood between them, this will create uniform gaps. Place the assembled table sides on the tabletop and secure them by screwing in self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 mm. Before fixing, make sure the legs and table top are perpendicular using a spirit level.

Place sawn pieces of 5x15 cm boards on the underside of the tabletop and secure them with 60 mm self-tapping screws.

Saw off the ends of the bars, which will serve as supports reinforcing the structure, at an angle of 45º. Place the supports in their place and secure with 90 mm self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle.

And finally, last but not least: check that the heads of the screws do not protrude above the wooden surface, and fill all cracks and holes with wood putty.

Tip: To protect wood surfaces from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, cover them with several layers of exterior paint or stain.

Table with benches. Instructions with drawings

Materials:

• A - Legs: bars 5x10 cm, length 95 cm (4 pcs.);
• B - Crossbars: bars 5×10 cm, length 160 cm (2 pcs.);
• C - Fastening the tabletop: 5×10 cm bars, 75 cm long (5 pcs.);
• D - Inclined supports: bars 5x10 cm, length 84 cm (2 pcs.);
• E - Tabletop: boards 5x10 cm, length 180 cm (14 pcs.).

You should start by making the legs. Since the legs of this table will be inclined, the ends of the 100 cm long bars should be cut at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements with 90 mm bolts.

Make sure the surface you are working on is fairly level. The mounted sides of the table must be identical, only in this case can you hope for an excellent final result.

When the sides of the table are ready, you can begin making the wooden tabletop. We recommend that you knock it together on the ground (floor), and then attach it to the legs using self-tapping screws.

Tip: Don't forget to make sure the side walls of the table are vertical using a spirit level, otherwise the end result of your work is unlikely to satisfy you.

Rigidly fix the entire structure using inclined supports. Their ends should first be cut at an angle of 26º.

Now all that remains is to build the benches. Saw off the boards of the required size, place them on both sides of the table and, having previously drilled several guide holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, secure them with self-tapping screws.

Tip: To ensure that the seat boards are evenly distributed, place nails or pieces of plywood between them before attaching them. Thanks to this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.

At the end of the work, pay attention to small but very important touches. Fill all cracks and holes with wood putty. After the putty has dried, sand the wood surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper.

Tip: Be sure to apply several coats of paint or stain to protect wood surfaces from exposure to water and sunlight.

Round table. We do it at the dacha on our own

Materials:

• A - Base: 5×10 cm block 102.5 cm long (1 piece) and 47 cm long (2 pieces), 2.5×10 cm block 9 cm long (4 pieces);
• B - Stands: bars 10×10 cm, length 60 cm (4 pcs.);
• C - Tabletop base: 5x10 cm bars 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) and 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5x10 cm bars 47.5 cm long (4 pcs.) and 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
• D - Tabletop: boards 2.5×15 cm, length 195 cm (9 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is to create the table base. To connect its constituent elements, use waterproof glue and self-tapping screws. Make sure that the corners formed by the bars being connected are straight. To protect assembled base table from rotting under the influence of rainwater, place it on small stands made from scraps of 2.5x10 cm boards.

Now you need to attach four posts made from square bars to the base. Before fixing, make sure they are vertical using a spirit level. The height of the legs may differ from what we propose; in this case, you should, first of all, be guided by your own needs.

The most difficult stage of the project is making the countertop. Place the boards on a flat surface and mark the center of the square. Secure one end of a 60 cm strip at this point. Rotate the other end of the staff to mark the outline of the circle. A jigsaw with a sharp blade will allow you to make circular cuts at a high professional level.

After cutting the boards of the future tabletop, we recommend that you fasten them together waterproof glue and additionally secure with several clamps. Attach the bars that serve as the base of the tabletop, as shown in the picture (yellow elements should be made from 5x10 cm bars, green ones from 2.5x10 cm bars).

Tip: To attach the bars to the tabletop, use waterproof glue and galvanized screws (30 mm self-tapping screws for fastening 2.5x10 cm bars and 50 mm for fastening 5x10 cm bars).

After the glue has dried, you should attach the legs to the base of the tabletop using 90 mm self-tapping screws, having previously drilled pilot holes. Use a spirit level to check the perpendicularity of the legs and tabletop.

To ensure that the result of your work corresponds to a high professional level, make sure that the heads of the screws are recessed deep enough. Cover all cracks and holes with wood putty, and after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Tip: Apply several coats of exterior paint or stain to protect the table from moisture damage. To ensure that the base stands are also untouched by water, place the table on concrete surface and seal them hermetically.

Now you know how to make a picnic table yourself. You just have to put in a little effort, which will subsequently be rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations from friends and pleasant summer evenings spent with your family at a large table.

Types of tables

Everyone has different tastes, as well as ideas about beauty and comfort. But every landowner has the right to develop his summer cottage plot at his own discretion. You can start with exactly how to make a table in the country.

Round picnic tables

Round tables look very neat on a summer cottage and fit very harmoniously into the surrounding landscape. Their only disadvantage is that they take up quite a lot of space.

Rectangular tables for the garden

A rectangular table can easily be placed either on the lawn of a suburban area or, if necessary, in a gazebo or on a small veranda. Classic rectangular shapes have always been and will be in fashion, so tables will fit well into any interior and will not irritate with their dimensions. In addition, such a table will perfectly support the entire range of dishes that constantly do not have enough space on round tables.

Enough space for everyone, or polygonal garden tables

Although polygonal garden tables take up quite a lot of space, they are indispensable when a large group of people gathers at the dacha. There is enough space for everyone, and your neighbor’s elbow won’t fit into your plate.

How to decorate a table in the country. Proper serving

When decorating a festive table in a country house, it is not necessary to focus on the smallest details and take into account all the subtleties of serving, as, for example, at social events and pretentious parties. It is enough just to catch the mood of the invited guests. And, nevertheless, there are certain rules for preparing the table at the dacha for the event.

The event is best held outdoors, so the table should be installed on fresh air, for example, in a gazebo, of course, if it is available. It would be a good idea to prepare two baskets; we will subsequently place them on our table. Cutlery should be carefully placed in the first, and fruits, vegetables and herbs - the main food at country festivities - in the second. Your invited guests will be able to serve the food they like on their own, and then sit down in a cozy place and enjoy the meal.

To decorate a garden table with your own hands before the holiday, you need to use more bright colors. A colorful tablecloth and bright napkins, which should be harmoniously combined with each other, will make the atmosphere even more relaxed and friendly, and will perfectly replace porcelain dishes disposable plates and mugs.

When organizing parties in a country house, the table setting should be complemented by items such as flowers in vases and candlesticks with candles.

A table is the second item after a stool that a novice amateur furniture maker should take on. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; an unpretentious, comfortable table for the country house or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly refined can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative expression; it can be a significant and even key element of interior design; it is not for nothing that artisanal furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinet makers or nightstand makers. Having become proficient in carpentry, you will eventually be able to take on exclusive tables and other positions. right there.

This article discusses how to make tables from wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic advantages. In utilitarian products, it forgives beginners quite serious mistakes, but delicate woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate living rooms production area: woodworking is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means tinting and protecting wood, like stains, emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro varnishes too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better yet, with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and it will not be good for the car. Better to work in a barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and it will be useful for a lot of things on the farm.

An ordinary carpenter's tool, on the left in the figure, will be enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better, if you attract help from modern achievements, on the right there:

• Rotary miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly to size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with the complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. A miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also versatile manual jigsaw with tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, gives a beginner the opportunity in 5-15 minutes to obtain the surface of a wooden surface, which would take an experienced carpenter with sandpaper in hand at least an hour to achieve, and a tape one, pos. 5, also process ends quickly and efficiently; There are also belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders, i.e. They artificially age the wood, but this is delicate work.
• It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges and select holes and grooves.

In general, a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply – 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, a jointer, a wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just turn the table legs on it; the reach of the tailstock caliper is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe; it’s not difficult to lengthen it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and the long support are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Domestic ones include:

The breeds are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting of horse chestnut, plane tree and juniper is not carried out at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and juniper is endangered and is protected. Industrial harvests of elm are almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and rowan berries are used for weapon stocks; full-fledged plastic replacement they don't have one yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, and does not renew itself well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and its wood is expensive.

Note: Walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness, the most openwork carving It doesn't hurt the nut. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. The countertop will be pine or oak; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop it warps a lot from spills. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

For a pine tabletop made from boards, you can and even should use low-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted ones. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is there substandard quality on the countertop? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished using a circular saw and jointer? And after skillful processing, they turn out to be layers of remarkable beauty, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers don’t like this kind of wood: it takes too long production cycle, waste increases. But for yourself, doing it yourself is not so scary compared to the result.

Wooden pot

Commercial pine has a clearly defined wood zonation in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many deciduous species also have it. On the cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when joining the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with their humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the humps are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with their humps in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not crack or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free way to protect wood from rotting is used motor oil, but for what you eat, this is not the best option. Impregnation with water-polymer emulsion (WPE) twice, with a break of 3-5 days, would be optimal; it will provide protection to the table for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with EPE is suitable for furniture front panels: coated with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually going out of use: they are superior to acrylic varnishes in all respects water based; In addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 with alcohol are inferior to PVA; True, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them until they are tacky before joining and keeping them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production This is acceptable for yourself.

Wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC varnishes and acrylic water-based for the same varnish.

First, prepare the “painting”: take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it while continuously stirring thoroughly with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed bottle and added to the varnish to the desired tone; A test for it is made on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes based on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then a table made from pallets will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in Fig. If you have a pair in stock, you can make a wall-mounted work desk-rack out of them in literally half an hour, in the center and on the right. You can also weave chains for it yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, small tools are placed on the shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a prefabricated cutting table for the dacha is made from one pallet, allowing you to move the summer-autumn harvesting campaign outside without littering with husks and without trampling on stalks. For the winter, this table is assembled into a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; Place a bucket under the hatch in the countertop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country trestle table, in common parlance a goat. Its structure of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a country folding table based on the same principle. It has articulated joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it’s also suitable for going on a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the table top can be made longer.

Finally, a gazebo table also does not require any special tools or skills, see fig. below. The material is the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a table top, its supporting frame, possibly with niches and/or mechanisms, or simply a plate - a base - legs, and the nodes that hold everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because... their fastening is the most weakness table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled using quick-drying glue that does not require curing: wood glue, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, to connect thin boards, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off heads are used, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, use thin-layered wood that is stronger than both parts being connected, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table on birch legs can be connected with oak or beech dowels. There are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels on sale; Before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, eg. inserts in sliding tables.

The legs are attached to industrial tables with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. The item marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. Buyers of Shiroptrebov Soviet furniture are well aware of its shortcomings and complete lack of advantages, let it remain there. Reliable, holds well, except for the legs, and the boards of the underframe, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite labor-intensive, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. The drawbar with a shaped steel jib, at the top right in the figure, is even stronger; In this way, you can attach round-headed legs or any legs in general, but you will need purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel.

Note: The legs are attached to the round table as shown below in Fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to fit into the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be brought in/out through the window, so in such cases the strength and durability of a table with tightly secured legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in Fig. By the way, the drawers can also be one-piece: then the legs have dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the grain of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the legs.

Sufficiently high-quality tables with turned legs are simply assembled on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs from a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to put thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

Tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest, option is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is available in the form of so-called. postforming - 3.6x1.2 m slabs 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower edge has a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is completely environmentally friendly, no matter what those who don’t want to forget the furniture, which stank of phenol for months, gossip about.

Postforming is well purchased by small furniture enterprises. They always have his waste; They will gladly cut your tabletop to size for you at an affordable price if the company has a jig cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be edged, i.e. cover the end of the PVC with edging (edge). If you do the edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an absurd extra payment for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have different profiles, see on the left in Fig. Mix it up and there will always be a dirt edging on the table.
• The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the edging ridge must be selected using a manual disk cutter; No one seems to have done it properly with a saw yet.
• Before installing the edging, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also act as a lubricant, without which the edge ridge may simply become wrinkled.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop should lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag lightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are held together in plank frames with wedges and spacers - wedges. It’s quite possible to make the vamps yourself; You need 3-4 per tabletop. The boards (cheeks) of the weim are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In Fig. for example, the process of making a round tabletop; The rectangular one is put together in the same way, only cutting it to size is easier. The shield is attached to the tabletop using glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are tongue-and-groove, dowels are not needed. When rallying on PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue comes off before installing it in the clamp.

Often, countertops are assembled without bands on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic film. It will not be possible to assemble a good board panel on the plaza: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end when assembling it. But stacked tabletops from fragments are obtained in in capable hands simply wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. – tabletop made from sawing waste, tinted with stain. And at pos. 4-5 The base of the tabletop was the platform itself, made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout, the surface is varnished and the outline is outlined with a wooden strip edge.

Note: These examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making inlaid artistic tabletops with your own hands.

Underframe

Table base with fixed legs - simple wooden frame, left in Fig. Niches and parts of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/extendable, or large operating loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffening ribs in the center. If the legs are attached with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to create a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.

Without frame

Tables without an underframe are also known, in which the tabletop and legs work in a single supporting system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in the figure; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will be used in one piece for large sidewalls, and another 1 piece for smaller ones. The table on the right is quite possible to make with your own hands: the load-bearing frame is prefabricated; connections - in a tenon with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the tabletop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.

... and we find ourselves in the kitchen

Exactly. The kitchen table is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country tables. It should already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average size; the width of the place for 1 eater/rider is 60-80 cm depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. Aesthetic appearance very desirable, but not decisive: suddenly you messed up the decoration, that’s why the tablecloth. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of laminated chipboard on metal legs; They are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in Fig. Factory-made table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. A table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the leg sockets with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% less than a completely purchased one, and in appearance it will not be inferior to it, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands to it, you can make steel legs with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from rather fragile silumin, the fastenings weaken over time and need to be tightened. You can cut out the nests yourself from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.

In a larger kitchen, there may be room for a larger table. In such a case, follow up. rice. blueprints kitchen table in rustic style. This table is “rustic” not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail or metal fasteners at all. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing this, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will also have to assemble the panels for the sidewalls, but in this case the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, which is very complex and labor-intensive, and is susceptible to splitting. Composite countertops made from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; Unlike laminate roundels, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a finely-set countertop, but here the “broom law” comes into play. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion about it at home, but that broom that is used to sweep away trash. As you know, it is impossible to break it (the broom, not the senator) when tied, but even a child will break it twig by twig. So here, thanks to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a table top assembled from them works like a solid slab, and after assembly you can cut it even “Zu”.

Note: The idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, Broom, was brought to mind by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and I undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more imagination than a bull. But not the bull that moos in the pasture, but the one that supports the bridge.”

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in the figure; On the right there are the tabletop dimensions and assembly order. And in Fig. above right - small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; assembly with glue. Any round piece will fit on the tabletop, from a cut tree stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (two-hundred-piece board) or laminated chipboard.

Let's go further: to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should suit the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves costs on living space), the table should, for the time being, not be conspicuous and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most popular pieces of furniture these days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, despite all its transformations, remains a table and does not turn into a closet or bed - a table-bedside table; It is quite possible to make it yourself “from scratch”. There are 2 options that are most common here. On the left in Fig. – the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied space in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By lifting the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and when fully deployed (in the center), it will provide space for a fairly crowded banquet.

For a bachelor living in a small apartment, a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. It's basically 2 small round ones. folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch with one folded one, because, unlike the previous option, there is somewhere to put your legs. And when you turn it around, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or intimate gatherings with friends.

All the above qualities are combined in transforming coffee and dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they mainly come down to 2 types: elevator (pantograph) and book. How they both work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although a lot depends on the quality of execution. Book lovers are more popular because the book mechanism can still be made independently, and the elevator is outside production conditions hardly.

How the book-table unfolds is shown step by step in Fig. on right. To make it yourself, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. Quite expensive branded designs use very softly operating gas dampers (gas lifts), but for an amateur it is better to opt for a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, underframe and the dead weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened/loosened; as a last resort, replace it. In general, an unsuccessful homemade transforming table with gas lifts can rarely be “brought to fruition,” but a spring table almost always does. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in Fig. – drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the presence of drilling, turning and metal milling machines or access to them, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. Factory transformable coffee table Rarely does it cost less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transforming table is made to fit the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. Other pos. in Fig. show the structure and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, a normal family with children, friends and relatives cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the tabletop halves (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable when properly executed; in addition, you can make them yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic guides for full extension, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the table capacity by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with folding inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when moving apart/sliding the halves of the tabletop, the inserts lift, unfold and put in place or put back into the underframe, a very complex mechanism, but it manual options available for making at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular: by leaning forward (and how can this be avoided if the house has no servants?), we get the board back into the table and our portion of the treat - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Let us remember that the table is not always moved apart, and you can use an extension, but a solid table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of pictures below there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and see how it looks “alive” on the left in the picture. at first.

In addition

You often want to paint a table, or any furniture, in more than just stripes or paint it artistically. To protect the design from external influences and to ensure the possibility of refinishing the varnish if necessary, the paint should not be applied, but rather rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by rubbing paint in layers is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on glazing wood.

Video: master class on wood glazing

Make your own round dining table and you will not only add a new piece of furniture to your home, but also improve your relationships. Psychologists note that the absence of corners, together with the equidistant position of all those sitting, contributes to special confidentiality. comfortable atmosphere communication. Unfortunately, the round shape is not the most ergonomic for a small space filled with other objects. But if you make a table yourself, you have the opportunity to adjust the size to fit a specific area of ​​the room.

Today, traditional wood materials, metal, glass, plastic, etc. are widely used in the production of tables. Optimal choice for self-production are laminated chipboard(at least 25 mm thick), dense birch plywood (not thinner than 35 mm), wooden boards for the tabletop and wooden beams (at least 50 mm) or metal for the supporting structure.

The generally accepted height parameters for kitchen tables range from 750 to 800 mm.

When preparing a drawing, it is necessary to take into account all the vertical dimensions of the structure: the legs themselves, the connecting structure, the thickness of the tabletop. But the diameter of the tabletop itself depends on the tasks and conditions of the room where the product will be located.

What's most important on the table? A durable, smooth tabletop and a reliable base that can support its weight and all the objects placed on it. Although other characteristics also matter, for example, the quality of the coating. It must be resistant to abrasion, scratching, moisture and temperature, etc. The proposed round table model is designed taking into account all the necessary requirements.

To create a wooden table we will use the following tools:

• electric jigsaw;
• screwdriver or drill;
• a grinding machine (or a grinding attachment for a drill);
• wood screws and confirmations;
• multi-stage drill for holes for confirmations;
• edge tape if you are using chipboard;
• tinting for wood to match the color of chipboard;
• finishing varnish wooden parts.

We will make a round table from:

• sheet of laminated chipboard or birch plywood 150x150 cm - tabletop;
• sheet of laminated chipboard or birch plywood 128x128 cm - binding disk;
• 4 bars 12x5x75 cm, 2 planks measuring 111x12x2.5 - legs.

Without special mechanisms and experience, it is difficult to independently cut a tabletop and a disk for connection with a table leg from sheets of solid material. Therefore, it is better to contact a professional, providing him with the required measurements and drawings. The diameter of the large tabletop circle is 128 cm, and the diameter of the undertable circle is 104 cm.

Those who love strong and simple furniture, the reliability of which has been tested for many decades, will undoubtedly like a table in the Provence style. Also its advantage is the material of manufacture - natural wood. The tabletop diameter is 48 inches (121.92 cm), the table height is 30 inches (76.2 cm).

Before making a round table, be sure to prepare the necessary set of tools:

• roulette;
• grinder with nozzles of different grain sizes;
• electric drill;
• electric jigsaw;
• miter saw, can be replaced with a circular saw;
• if possible, use it modern device, which helps to fix connections, workpieces, and carry out the most complex fastenings with self-tapping screws;
• screws 7-8 cm;
• screws 6 cm;
• screws 3 cm;
• confirmations 6.3 cm;
• glue, finishing materials for wood.

If you have the opportunity and sufficient work experience, from lumber (plywood, wooden planks and timber) cut the blanks of the given parameters. Color drawings show the location of parts in the product, study them carefully.

• 1 piece central support 4x4x23.25 inches (10.16x10.16x59.055 cm);
• 1 piece of upper support cross 2x4x43 inches (5.08x10.16x109.22 cm);
• 2 parts of the upper support cross 2x4x19 inches (5.08x10.16x48.26 cm);
• 1 piece of lower support cross 2x6x18.5 inches (5.08x15.24x46.99 cm);
• 4 Base Base Pieces 1 x 6 x 6.5 inches (2.54 x 15.24 x 16.51 cm)

• 8 rafters 2x4x14 inches (5.08x10.16x35.56 cm);
• 2 tabletop mounting segments 2x6x6.5 inches (5.08x15.24x16.51 cm);

The dimensions of the tabletop blanks do not match the parameters of the diagram. After mounting on a plywood sheet, they will be trimmed to give the tabletop a round shape.

1. Assemble the base base. Attach the halves of the crosses to the central whole part of the leg, use glue and 3 Euroscrews for each connection. Also attach the lower segments of the base (red) with confirmations and glue.

1. You can purchase a ready-made tabletop or use a part from an old table. In this case, you can install the circle on the finished base and level the position. After this, proceed to attach the tabletop to the upper crosspiece with confirmations. Screw in 3 per connection. Don't forget to further strengthen the adhesion with glue.
2. The wooden table is assembled, you can begin finishing. First of all, fill the unevenness and depressions from the confirmations with a special filler.
3. After drying, carefully sand the entire product. Use a coarse-grit attachment first, then move on to finer grains.
4. Cover the round table with several coats of varnish. 1-2 applications will highlight the beauty and texture of wood, 3-4 will add a glossy shine to surfaces. Instead of varnish, at the request of the master, the table can be painted or decorated in any chosen way.

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: in parking lots and settlements primitive people large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, serving and dining tables; they contained remains of food and food. In this article we will look at how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only allow you to save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire initial skills carpentry work, which may turn out to be much more significant in the future. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather serious flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and tighten a screw.

A table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: much less skill is needed here than imagination, and failure will not ruin the entire interior. The samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for making with your own hands, but first you need to get a feel for the design and material at a basic level, which is what we will try to help the reader with.

There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table, including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, firstly, we will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows us to obtain the desired result with the least amount of labor, Money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than rectangular for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to him and must be served over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already falls into the category of parodies of the rules of good manners. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards you or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour on yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular table of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the dimensions of the kitchen table in plan, the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m each. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are spoiled much more than a slight deviation from these proportions by wedging dining area to the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove and pressed her seductive forms against her husband’s cheek just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, as long as it is comfortable for the eaters.

Minimum permissible dimensions family kitchen table in plan is considered to be 600x900 mm. For single people, let's say a table is 450x750 mm, like in railway cars. In this case, in a “micro-kitchen” or kitchen area of ​​a small-sized one-room apartment, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one, see below. But the optimal dimensions of a kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

Which one to do

Traditional kitchen table - on the base, pos. 1 in Fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the tabletop can be placed loosely on them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a table kitchen sizes It’s simpler in design and stronger, but it’s more difficult to bring in/take out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option is that the drawers are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. In this case, the tabletop needs to be durable and not made of anything suitable for use. case, the material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with bringing in/out. Both of these options for a classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.

The table on the base can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - can be easily obtained from commercially available railing balusters (see below). For a novice craftsman who knows how to use a jigsaw, a figured sawed-off drawer does not pose a problem. What remains is a molding - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For this, you can rent a manual milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like; with it, the work itself on setting up the molding takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of trim.

No less common in kitchens are tables of beam construction, pos. 3. Even in their simplest design (see 2 options below) they are more attractive than tables with a base. However, to complete them in a high-end design (item 4) requires well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills. Beam tables require more material, but they undeniable advantage– they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing tabletop without an underframe (item 5) are also very often found in kitchens. In a factory-made version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and assembly will take at most half an evening. But when completely self-production With such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are also tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially created a sensation due to its compactness when folded and the ability to be used in a half-fold version, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs feel uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the rotary support lock was the simplest, consisting of a pair of 50x20 bars, attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when unfolding the table. However, if you accidentally pry the tabletop with your knee, the lock is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge of cutlets and mashed potatoes on the trousers and the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complex and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, which will be the subject of a special section in this publication.

Wall-mounted folding tables (item 7) are rarely found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their bosses, because... have all the disadvantages of book-tables with virtually no room for improvement. Serving tables(pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to just mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made from wood species or materials that are little or not subject to shrinkage when dried: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in a kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air begins to warp and crack after 5-7 years, even if impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. This leads to some features of its manufacture, which ultimately make it possible to simplify the work.

Tabletop

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen best option– buy a ready-made postforming countertop; they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled laminated chipboard with rounded edges, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to a kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically for simplicity and speed of work. But countertops made from boards, the so-called, look much more solid. solid wood or furniture panels. Joining boards into an array is quite delicate and painstaking work; for this purpose, special devices are used - clamps. If you want to try your hand at making furniture from solid wood, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture panel with your own hands:

How to make a panel top for a kitchen table:

How to make a tabletop from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but you can achieve the look - cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; Just in case, let us remind you what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out along with the connected parts; The laminated chipboard, which practically does not dry out, is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are rarely used, because... often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, such as marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel connection; both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products using Euro-furniture screws - confirmed ones. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because... the confirmation hole in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.

Parts made of laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood, connected with confirmats, hold long years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture grades for wood, not plumbing grades for plastic. They differ at first glance: furniture slots have a hexagon slot, and plumbing slots have a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (as an extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck should correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The penetration of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
• Hole ( blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use only a twist drill for wood.
• The main drill must be inserted into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmations with a main drill of a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation by thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:

1. Based on the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on confirmatories on the Internet, from which you can, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open pictures for the request “furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions”;
3. Are looking for outlet, where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows them exactly;
4. We say: “I need so many of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them.” They may offer a solid drill just for this confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to place a detachable (freely applied) tabletop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a cap and different types grooves on the long recessed and short protruding parts, see fig. on right. Thick tabletops are attached first, approx. from 20 mm; the second ones are thinner.

Various tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) using tongue-and-groove joints, which is quite complex and labor-intensive. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters the heads are usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with plan dimensions of up to approx. 750x1500 mm can be made by connecting with wood screws at an angle, pos. 3. In any case, the outer sides of the drawers should be 1.5 cm away from the outer surfaces of the heads of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the kitchen table drawers is 120 mm; thickness – 30 mm.

It is highly advisable to reinforce the connection with oblique screws with diagonal ties in the corners (item 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the tabletop is not intended to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the labor-intensive installation of it on dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the bottom with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Countertops made from other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs, are not applicable here. Due to the large difference in thermal expansion modules between them and wood, the table will soon become loose.

Next, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations right through the end, on the left in the figure, with sizing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly using ordinary wood screws, because... they are without a neck to keep the joint from moving.

The next point is that jibs in the corners (also in the figure) are required, wooden mortise ones or ready-made steel overhead ones. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the table drawer are the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, and closet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, but the smooth movement of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension of great importance If they don’t, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which keyboard boards on computer desks run.

The structure of a furniture box is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray the old fashioned way on a box tenon (on the right in the figure); you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach it with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can overlap the front side of the table or fit flush into it, it doesn’t matter.

To install the drawer in the table, an opening is cut to size in the longitudinal front drawer cross section drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specifications for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to secure the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal frames from the inside using backing bars. There is no need to fasten it to the tabletop; it will become loose. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the supporting boards, respectively. the guide parts push the drawer into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A completely simple but good-looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of boards, see fig. on right. Its length, if the drawer section is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop – any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam table.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables with a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. An option for attaching it from the bottom without dowels to cranial bars shown in the inset center right.

In this product, a beginner may find the bottom bandage (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for the wedge to be a stumbling block. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or boards. How to make beamed kitchen tables of this type, you can watch the following video:

Video: DIY table by components

The table, drawings of which are shown below, has 2 features. First, all material is boards with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided for the tabletop, and it can be made of glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the board of the tabletop and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but removing the tabletop for cleaning is also easy. So whether it’s rustic or modern, whether it’s a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without table support

Factory-made kitchen tables without bases are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in Fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own for a wooden tabletop will encounter the following tricks.

First, you still need a table stand, made of wooden beams from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stress in boards always flows to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg frame must be tensioned approximately equally, otherwise the fastening will loosen on its own. Timber piping expands the fan of stress in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace continuous piping with corner pads; they will be of no use.

The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense, fine-grained wood. If the tabletop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having torn the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%

And the third is the leg clips themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without tabletops from “alternative” manufacturers, they are most often made of silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than assembling a kit for self-assembly at retail.

Books and Cheburashkas

The disadvantages of the table-book of the original design (see figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In Fig. Below is a drawing of the design of a table-book (conventionally, only one rotary support is shown without the wings of the tabletop), which eliminates them in an amateurish, but effective manner. Simply, the width of the rotary support is reduced by more than half compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, so you can sit comfortably as you wish. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than an oblique one, and in order to lift the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest clamp (see above), you need to raise your knees so that it will be very uncomfortable for yourself. Overall stability is provided by the legs of the cabinet section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was used in the wall-mounted folding table (items 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging corner of the support contributes to operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous one. case: there are no contraindications for performing that support in the form of a trapezoid converging downward.

A proprietary solution to the problems of a book-table is removable legs stored in the cabinet. Placing them is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the tabletop with a rotating support. Such a table-book is, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because it's simply not needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a larger cabinet and one leg on each wing of the tabletop. There are half as many legs, which means the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always in short supply in the kitchen).

Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: “Here, we built, built, and finally built it.” A folding kitchen table as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with a living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about a kitchen table; it’s better to replace it with a column. You can not only drink at the bar counter, you can also eat there. The point of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge itself into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It’s more convenient to work and dine in a 5-measure kitchenette with a bar counter, which separates the apartment’s zones, than in 8-9. meter kitchen Brezhnevka Don't believe it? Let's do the math.

The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To plant the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a 900x600 mm table requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of “living space”, and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick piece into a kitchen of normal size without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the kitchen side, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and the hostess is within easy reach of everything.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: “The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract.” Here, of course, he bent and overdid it. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomachs, although the kitchen is truly conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, at some point there comes a time that requires fundamental changes.

The interior of any home will be decorated with handmade crafts. Not the most difficult option for individual creativity is a home table made of wood. It's easy to create a design yourself. Here the flight of imagination is unlimited, but you need to start by choosing the design, purpose and design features that you plan to implement. At the very beginning, you need to create drawings and drawings from which you can assemble the finished table.

Drawings and diagrams

Initially, work out each element in detail, especially decorative additions, if they are planned. This is exactly the case when decoration will not be superfluous. It is best to draw the drawing in accordance with the actual dimensions by selecting the appropriate scale on paper.

The type of table can be very diverse, from a regular desk to a children's massage table. It is also possible to make a table for a bathhouse with your own hands. One of the easiest to make is a corner table.

It’s not so difficult to create a small transformer or a book-table. It takes up little space in the room and is functional in many situations. The sliding design will help save some space. A carpentry table is very suitable for home construction. And, of course, a table on the veranda, where you can gather the whole family for evening tea.

Decor

Decorating will greatly improve the appearance. Almost any table design can be decorated with carved legs, especially if you decide to implement the project in rustic style. The addition of tabletop decor with lighting from LED lamps will look elegant. A glowing table in the corner of the living room will add warmth to a cold winter night. There can be an endless number of options, but the main thing is not to overdo it and not overdo it with decorations.

Style and design

There are no restrictions or strict boundaries for your own creativity. The easiest way to do original item- perform it in the “antique” style. This is the most common and not too difficult craft to perform. Imitation of antiquity will decorate almost any interior.

The design of a homemade table should ideally fit organically into the interior of the room in which it is planned to be used. Various forms and artistic solutions are possible. Wood products allow you to experiment with geometry.

About how to do unusual table, watch in the next video.

Form

Such a table can have different angles and will not lose any functionality. Each side of such a structure can be secured permanent places for family members. Smaller sides are for children. Larger sides are for adults.

Material

Wood is convenient to use in any condition. Recycling wooden structures is also quite suitable. It's great to use old boards. Many breeds only get better over time.

It's no secret that floors made from valuable species that have lasted a century are sometimes used to make musical instruments. When reusing, be sure to remove upper layer, which will give the final product a cleaner look. Products made from such material, without exaggeration, will last forever.

Combination of dissimilar materials

Combinations of wood and metal look original. The massive surface of the table will be decorated with iron, and ideally cast iron, legs. The combination of oak and cast iron will achieve excellent results. Heavy cast iron goes perfectly with oak or ash.

The combination of hard African breeds and metal structures. The result will amaze anyone, even the most demanding connoisseur.

Glass and wood go together perfectly

An elegant wooden stand will be the best decoration for glass table. Modern fastening devices will ensure reliable jointing of these materials. The round shape of the final product with this combination is the most optimal solution.

You can combine different materials

It is quite possible to install a wooden or glass top on a lightweight concrete base coffee table. Quite modern solution, which will add a light industrial touch to your interior design. A combination of glass and concrete, as well as pine additions, will look great.

How can you use natural stone?

Quite an elegant combination if done in moderation. Do not overload the table structure with too heavy elements. Try to find a suitable base from natural stone. The design of the wooden top will be dictated by the stone itself. Place a solid wooden surface on it and you'll have a table like no other.

Beautiful examples and options

With your own hands it is quite possible to make very beautiful, original things that will look no worse than those made by famous masters. Homemade items will always be your pride and a topic of discussion among your friends.

What can you make yourself?

Almost any table can be used by each of us. This simple household item does not require special knowledge or special professional skills. We start making wood products at school, during labor lessons. Therefore, a simple wooden design of a laptop table will be quite feasible. You can also make both the chairs and the bench for your country house yourself.

You can come up with your own design for home crafts. Folding table will not constantly occupy living space. It can combine several functions. From a place for changing a baby, to a work surface for home crafts.

A wide field for creativity will be provided by a combination of wood and other materials. Don't be afraid to experiment. Connect dissimilar objects together and you will achieve amazing results. Even if you decide to combine rarely combined elements, don't be afraid to try. Any ideas can be realized.

How to make a table?

Home construction It’s worth starting with a small coffee table. The design can be quite simple. A work surface can be purchased at a hardware supermarket.

Glued pine is best. Glued solids are less susceptible to deformation due to changes in humidity and temperature changes. It’s most convenient to pick up the legs for your craft there.

Desk

It is better to assemble it from ready-made wooden panels - a completely reasonable start to home crafts. The easiest way to order finished elements or entire blocks with delivery is on a website that sells components for such work. Here you can find all the necessary accessories. All that remains is to spend a little time on assembly. Additional processing and adjustment will not be too difficult, the main thing is that you will gain the necessary experience for further creativity.

Kitchen table

It's not that difficult to make your own kitchen utensils. You can start with a small pine kitchen table. Legs are easiest to buy ready-made, pine is the most a budget option. It is easier to select the working surface to fit the planned dimensions. All that remains is, literally, to put the table on its feet.

Kitchen set

Assemble the kit kitchen furniture Anyone can make a wave according to their own drawings. You need certain skills to install opening doors, but this simple science can be learned by watching several videos on the Internet.

Required Tools

You can start with a small set. A hammer, a plane, a chisel, a wood saw, nails and screws can be found in every home. You will also need a ruler and a pencil. If you can purchase additional power tools, be sure to do so.

Electric planer in the house or a jigsaw will be useful for the following crafts. Such a tool must be of good quality. It will last for many years, even if you don't use it every day.

Special tool

To achieve high quality, it is better to use special equipment with an electric drive. The acquisition costs will not be significant, and you will have the opportunity to move on to more complex projects in the future.

What can you purchase in addition to your existing electric drill:

electric jigsaw - will allow you to make high-quality cuts of any materials;

electric planer - will make the surface of the wood perfectly smooth;

circular saw - will provide longitudinal or cross cutting of industrial quality;

mechanical device for milling work- will process the edges of your craft with an intricate design and help you cut it out decorative elements on a wooden surface;

a machine for sanding work - will make finishing a wooden surface a simple and enjoyable task that does not require much effort.

It is best to purchase a combined power tool that combines several in one device. various functions. This will reduce costs and allow you to implement many design ideas. By the way, a home electric drill can be supplemented with various attachments, which will expand its capabilities.

Accessories

If you decide to go to a craft store, stock up on everything you need right away. For your craft, you will need additional components to securely fasten the wooden parts together. The simplest steel corners will make the structure more reliable in operation. Don't skimp on additional decorative elements. They will not be superfluous, but will only decorate the appearance.

Ready-made kits that can be purchased in the store will add greater elegance to wooden crafts. A homemade desk for a child will look very nice if you use metal legs from any ready-made kit furniture. It’s easy to make a bedside table for it yourself from the same standard kits. Handles and fittings can be picked up in the same store.

Fastening wooden structures

The ancient technology of wood joints without iron nails and glue is almost lost. But there’s no harm in trying. Fit all wooden joints with minimal gaps, drill holes with a diameter of six to eight millimeters in the joints and drive a dried wooden tenon into it.

If all wooden parts are excessively dried before assembly, then over time they will gain the required amount of moisture and increase their size. The connection will become quite strong, and the swollen wooden tenon will give additional strength.

Traditional mounting options

The simplest and most reliable option is to drive a screw into the tree. Now they make special self-tapping screws for wooden joints, which, unlike a regular screw, do not require a precise hole to be screwed in. If the thickness of the connection is not very large, then you can do without additional holes. The wood screw will do everything on its own, especially if you use an electric screwdriver. This connection will last quite a long time without glue.

Why do you need glue?

To give a wooden structure additional strength, it is best to glue the articulated surfaces. You need a little glue, but the result will be excellent when combined with screws or nails; the glued wooden joint will remain strong for many years. It is best to use water-based glue. There are many varieties of reliable wood glue available.

How to make an original home table?

It’s not that difficult to create crafts of your own design. The material can be found in any forest.

It will come out of solid wood unique craft. But this will require a little work. The ideal option is the base of a large tree, the diameter of which is more than eighty centimeters in circumference. If you can use part of the root system, you will have a reliable base for the table and no additional legs will be needed.

You need to understand that it will not be easy to deliver such a workpiece from the forest, but the result will pay off all the work; such a table cannot be compared with anything.

Table for a summer cottage

Outdoor table For a suburban area you definitely need to do it yourself. The ideal material is the same log brought from the forest. It is convenient to make the base from birch logs of small diameter. They need to be dug into the ground about fifty centimeters.

Then level their tops by sawing off any excess wood. The working surface can be made from a log of large transverse diameter, sawing it lengthwise. The flat part will be the surface of the outdoor table.

All outdoor additional buildings are best made of wood. This one is natural natural material It tolerates moisture, heat and frost very well. A bench for summer cottage It is also better to make it yourself from the same wooden components. A homemade bench will look natural next to your handmade table.

Why is it better to use solid wood?

The structure of wood is such that its durability directly depends on how intact its integrity is. Therefore, since ancient times, solid logs have been used to build houses. With minimal processing, when the integral structure is preserved as much as possible, wooden structures can last hundreds of years without collapsing or changing their shape.

What can be made from solid wood?

First you need to be patient. Cutting down a tree and delivering it to your home is not the most difficult task. It is important to properly prepare the material for subsequent processing.

Preparing a wooden blank

It is imperative to rid the tree of excess moisture. If you can’t agree to do this at a woodworking plant that has special drying equipment, then it is quite possible to dry it at home.

Log harvesting is usually done in the spring, when the trunk has not begun to absorb moisture from the soil, that is, before the thaw. Usually this is the month of March. Natural drying lasts from several months to a year, depending on the type of wood.

Why is it important to use only dry material?

A raw tree will certainly crack as soon as the bark is removed, unless, of course, this is planned by your design idea. Some breeds change shape greatly if not dried properly.

Dry wood should be well cleaned and sanded; a light layer of textured varnish or stain would not hurt to give the product more texture. If the diameter of the circle is large enough, and part of the root system has become reliable support, then the table is almost ready. Upper part need to be sanded well and varnished. So the ideal design for a laptop is ready.

Dimensions

If you want to make a large dining table from a solid log, you will have to work a little and use a chainsaw to make a longitudinal cut in the middle of the trunk. You will get two almost identical halves. If the width of one part is a meter or more, and the length is at least one and a half meters, then the base for dining table has already. You can leave bottom part semicircular or straighten by cutting off the semicircular lower part.

All that remains is to build reliable legs and treat the table surface with any in a convenient way. It is not necessary to make the table absolutely flat, especially if valuable types of wood were used. Moderate irregularities will give the craft additional charm.

How to use the second half of the log?

A little extra effort, and a strong bench for the table is ready. If the width of the log is sufficient, you can get two strong benches on both sides of the table. It is best to connect them rigidly in general design, or make two separate strong seats for several people. The bench, of course, will have to be leveled and all irregularities removed. Ideally, sand it well and cover it with varnish or stain.

Colors

Do not be too zealous in painting wooden products. If you decide to enhance the natural color, then coffee tones are best for any breed. It is optimal to use water-based varnishes and paints. They are less toxic and interact well with wood.

It is perfectly acceptable to use undyed materials with natural colors. Cast iron without additional coating and wood of natural color will become an original decorative solution that does not require additional color shades.

Raw aluminum and dark woods combine very well. The natural silver color and dark oak texture look very original. Elements with natural colors are well suited for additional decoration.

But components made of iron, unless, of course, it is stainless steel, need to be painted in any case. Even if your table with iron legs will always be indoors, the metal must be coated with any coloring compound. Iron corrodes even in dry and warm rooms and requires painting.

Wood coloring

When using planed wood products outdoors, painting is required not only for decorative purposes. Good coverage will protect the tree and extend its service life. In this case, special compounds for external work are used. The color scheme can be any. The most acceptable are the same dark coffee shades.

Useful little things

• The wisest thing is to take your time. Any work requires thoughtfulness and precision in execution. Don't set yourself any deadlines. Do work when you are in the mood.
• If something doesn’t work out, put the craft aside and come back to it after a while. Such work will only be a joy, and you will achieve good results.
• Don't take on a complex project right away, start with simple work. It is necessary to gain some experience for subsequent more complex crafts. Using power tools will make your work easier. Be sure to follow all safety precautions when working with any tool used for wood processing.

• Even a small splinter can become a problem if you do not pay attention to it in time. Follow safety regulations. Always wear glasses when working with wood products, especially if machining is involved.
• If you have little experience, but have a desire to make at least a wooden table with your own hands own home, start by going to the building materials supermarket. There you will find everything you need for individual creativity. Design solutions will be suggested by the materials themselves.
• To begin with, use wooden blanks that require minimal post-processing.
• Carry out all work in spacious room. Small workshop in the country - perfect option. Painting should be carried out in a well-ventilated area, even if low-toxic compounds are used. Observe all required drying times for glued and painted parts.

Advantages and disadvantages

Handmade crafts do not always look perfect. But don't be upset about it. Minor flaws will be compensated by absolute satisfaction from the work done personally. Such disadvantages can be attributed rather to advantages. An industrial product will not retain the warmth of your hands.