How to make a plastic slope. Methods and technologies for installing plastic slopes. Step-by-step description of the process with photos and videos. Facing internal slopes

Hello!

Have you looked at my page again to learn something new in the field of construction finishing works?

We will talk about the process that is a consequence and an integral part of the work associated with the installation of plastic windows - finishing the internal slopes.

I hope that for those who decide to independently install and finish slopes, this article will become a practical guide for carrying out this type of construction work.

How to make internal window slopes

To learn how to design internal slopes yourself, you first need to decide what slopes you will make.

It is clear that:

• their plane should be smooth, without cracks;
• the side and top lines of the junction with the wall are straight;
• on all three sides the slope should cover the window frame with the same grip;
• the angles of dawn of the side slopes must be identical to each other.

These are common truths known to everyone. Well, we’ll talk about how to ensure that the slopes meet these requirements a little later - after we decide what building material will form their basis.

Meanwhile, choosing the material from which the slope in your house will be made is not such a simple question as it seems, so we will consider it in more detail.

What material

What is the further arrangement of the window opening after it has been installed in this opening? window unit? That's right, what follows is the finishing of the slopes of this opening with one of the building materials, the list of which begins with classic plaster and ends with wooden lining.

You need to choose the slope covering material based on the purpose of the room in which it is located. window hole.

Let's look at some of the options:

• the interior of the room is stylized with natural wood trim, and the owner wants to emphasize this direction in all details, even in the arrangement of the window opening. In this case, MDF panels, PVC panels, laminate, laminated fiberboard, and natural wooden lining can come to the rescue. Naturally, MDF, PVC, fiberboard and laminate must have a wood imitation. It is worth noting that in order to avoid sharp dissonance with the slopes, the plastic window must also be laminated to match the texture and color of the wood;
• the room has a style that corresponds to the concept of “minimalism”, where nothing should be conspicuous, including window openings. In this version best choice There will be classic plastered, puttied and painted slopes. If the window frame of a plastic window is standard white, then it is better to paint the slopes matte white;
• a window opening is located in a room where the window is constantly covered with a curtain or curtain. If the window is out of sight and its aesthetic component does not play a role in the decoration of the room, the slopes can quickly and easily be decorated with a plastic panel with a color similar to the color of the window frame;
• window installed in technical room or in the bathroom. As a rule, the decoration of the walls of these rooms is of a specific nature and, in most cases, it is finished with tiles, sometimes (in the bathroom) with mosaics. The same materials (only after plastering) can be transferred to window slopes - it will be both stylish and practical.

Besides, for finishing window openings you can use drywall, penoplex and even metal. In what cases these types of finishes are used, I will tell you when we get closer to specific cases of their installation on slopes.

As you can see, there is a choice of materials for constructing slopes, and you have to make it.

Main types of installation of internal window slopes for plastic windows

The problem of what slopes will be made after the plastic windows are installed must be solved even before installing these windows.

Very often, the organization that installs window blocks can also provide services for finishing slopes. If you want to see the slopes around the installed windows, then the easiest way would be to find out whether the organization has a similar service in its arsenal and what finishing options they can offer you.

Most often, installers of plastic windows offer to install slopes from PVC panels - it does not take much time and is quite economically feasible.

How to finish slopes, watch the video:

Made from PVC panels

If the distance from the frame to the plane of the inner wall is not very large (up to 37 cm), then it can be covered with one plastic panel. In houses with substantial wall thickness and, accordingly, a large window opening depth, two panels can be joined, which, of course, is not very good, because their joint is quite noticeable.

P The PVC panels from which the slope is made must be mounted on a pre-arranged frame. Often, installers neglect this condition, and the entire installation consists of inserting the panel into an outer F-shaped strip fixed along the edge of the slope and an initial profile fixed to the window frame.

Such negligence threatens that when pressing on the panel, it may simply fall under the slats, and then putting it in its place will not be so easy.

The appearance of slopes made of plastic is, as they say, “not for everyone.”

Some owners of plastic slopes are simply delighted - this finish does not require special care, no marks remain on it, it blends in with the window frame, moreover, perfectly even and smooth.

And some people notice that after installing the plastic on the slopes, when the sun's rays hit it, an unpleasant odor appears in the room. The plastic itself begins to turn yellow from exposure to the sun over time, and it looks too much like an artificial material.

For those who do not like PVC slopes, the main complaint expressed is the poor quality of the panels. This issue can be resolved by choosing certified products, technical specifications which states that it is intended for use in different weather conditions.

From plaster composition

I’ll say right away that plaster slopes are a bad solution for finishing openings in a wooden house.

In principle, they can be made on wooden slopes: install a plaster mesh and apply a plaster composition to it. But the whole question is how long will this slope last before it begins to become covered with cracks, because the tree begins to “play”? I'm sure it won't be long.

For this reason slopes made of plaster are a privilege of houses in which window openings are made of brick and concrete.

Finishing slopes with plaster is considered not so much labor-intensive as a lengthy process.

First you need to prime the base and let it dry. Then you should apply a spray (for better adhesion) of the plaster composition if we are dealing with a slope in a panel or monolithic house, and let the composition dry again.

Depending on the thickness of the layer that needs to be applied to the slope, the plaster has to be applied several times, and before each subsequent application the previous layer must be completely dry.

After the applied layers have completely dried, the slope is again primed and puttied, at least twice.

Then the dried putty is sanded with sandpaper to bring the treated surface to perfect condition, and primed again.

The last stage is applying two layers of paint.

Have you noticed how many times you need to stop before starting the next stage of finishing?

Many times, and all this takes time, which, as you know, is money for any builder. Therefore, do not be surprised when, in order to make a slope made of plaster, you are asked for an amount three to four times higher than the cost of installing a plastic slope on the same window.

If you are promised to make a slope of plaster in a day or two, then be prepared for the fact that its surface will soon be covered with a network of cracks, and this will not be the worst thing.

The main trouble that can happen to a surface that is plastered in violation of technology is its complete separation from the base. So think about what’s better: wait patiently until each plaster layer it will dry out and shrink, or do everything quickly and at one not at all wonderful moment you will see pieces of plaster falling off the upper slope on the windowsill.

By the way, since we remembered the upper slope, I can say that often experienced builders Instead of throwing plaster on the upper slope (due to the particular complexity of this work), they follow the path of least resistance and install a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall on it.

The result is a combined type of finishing: plaster on the vertical sides, and plasterboard on top.

This is how we smoothly approached the next popular material used for finishing slopes - dry plaster or sheet plasterboard.

Technology for finishing slopes of plastic windows in the video:

https://youtu.be/UQP_JozDJ1s

From plasterboard

There are two ways to fix drywall on the surface of a window opening:

• stick on a special adhesive composition;
• screw onto a metal or wooden frame.

Gluing is a simpler and more accessible method.

The first blank for the upper slope is cut from a sheet of moisture-resistant plasterboard (necessarily moisture-resistant, since the slope is a zone of high humidity). Its length should be equal to the distance between the side slopes, and its width should be a couple of centimeters greater than the distance from the window frame to the plane of the wall.

It is desirable that the side of the workpiece that touches the frame have a raw “factory” joint. It is easier to putty, and it is less susceptible to mechanical damage than the cut edge.

After making sure that the workpiece is suitable in size, you need to prepare one board slightly shorter than the length of the workpiece, and two more supports - equal in length to the distance from the window sill to the upper slope.

Several beads of adhesive are applied to the inside of the workpiece, after which it is fixed to the top of the opening using a board supported by supports.

Blanks for side slopes are cut according to the same pattern: length from the window sill to the upper slope; width from frame to wall with a margin of a couple of centimeters.

After mandatory fitting, it is necessary to apply the same adhesive composition to the inner surface and ensure contact with the side wall of the window opening.

It should be noted that immediately after contact with the surface of the opening, the workpiece must be adjusted to the level. To do this, you need to attach a strip level to their surfaces in two places - near the frame and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe junction with the wall of the room.

After the drywall is glued, you can cut off its protruding part along the plane of the wall and begin puttying and painting.

Installing drywall on a slope using a frame is a relatively difficult task. In this case, much depends on what space is allocated for installation and to what surface the frame should be attached.

Non-traditional materials

Interior slopes are not just the surface between the window frame and the wall of the room in which the window opening is located. Slopes are, first of all, a structural element of the entire building., which, like a window unit, is endowed with certain technical functions and is responsible for the atmosphere in a particular room, and, consequently, for the comfort of living.

If slopes in a house are not part of the decorative design, but only fully perform their heat and moisture protection functions, then, as a rule, no one notices them. But as soon as mold or mildew appears on the wall where the window opening is located, the search for the cause of this problem immediately begins.

Freezing of slopes, peeling of paint from their plastered surface, the appearance of condensation on a PVC slope, peeling of paper from the surface of drywall - these and other defects force builders to look for other, giving top scores approaches to finishing the internal surfaces of window openings.

Three-layer panels

Sandwich panels made of plastic and foam plastic are designed for finishing and insulating premises. We are accustomed to the fact that this material is used for the construction of insulated buildings, which it has big sizes and solid thickness.

But competition forces manufacturers of building materials to quickly satisfy all the needs of the rapidly growing construction market, so the market special sandwich panels appeared for finishing indoor slopes.

Externally, a slope made from a sandwich is difficult to distinguish from one made from a PVC panel - it is also white and has the same plastic surface in appearance. But there are significant differences in quality characteristics.

Sandwich panel is an excellent thermal insulation material.

A heat insulator (foam plastic) is glued between its two plastic sheets, which, in addition to preserving heat, also serves as a good barrier to sound waves.

Sandwich, unlike plastic, is a fairly hard material, and it is quite difficult to damage it.

The thickness of the sandwich panel is the same as that of plastic, so it is mounted according to the same principle - using an F-shaped initial and corner profile.

So the appearance of the slopes remains virtually unchanged and does not depend on whether a sandwich panel is installed on it or a PVC panel is fixed.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam - not really regular material for finishing slopes, however, it can also be used for these purposes by experienced finishers.

This material can be used in cases where it is required:

• make the slope as warm as possible;
• fill too long distance from the outer plane of the future slope to the plane of the opening;
• install sufficiently moisture-resistant material on the slope.

The thickness (from 20mm and above), as well as sufficient rigidity and moisture resistance of penoplex, make it easy to perform these three tasks.

Internal slopes made of penoplex are installed according to the same scheme as slopes made of plasterboard– can be glued or attached to the frame.

The only difference in the finishing of these two materials is that the surface of the drywall is puttied without additional conditions, and on the penoplex, due to the rigidity of its surface, before applying the putty, you need to glue the painting fiberglass - “cobweb”.

Algorithm for plastering PVC window slopes in the video:

Decorative rock

There are many ways to create the desired atmosphere in a single room. Finishing slopes is one of them.

For example, if, according to the designer’s idea, there is a wall or part of it inside the room, trimmed with decorative stone, then the appearance of this finishing option on the window slopes will be not only a logical, but also an original continuation of the interior solution.

For a bathroom, a natural solution would be to continue the wall pattern, transferred to the plane of the slopes. Often in bathrooms and technical rooms, instead of a plastic window sill on bottom part the opening is installed with the same finishing (tiles or mosaics) that is on the walls and slopes.

Moreover, nothing special needs to be done in preparing the surface for this type of finishing. Tiles, mosaics, and decorative stones can be glued to a plastered or plasterboard-covered surface.

Technical aspects of installing plastic slopes

The installation of a window block is necessarily followed by the finishing of the window opening, that is, the planes adjacent to the window of the upper and side slopes, as well as the installation of a window sill board.

Without these elements interior decoration indoors, the window will not fully cope with the functions that are included in its technical characteristics, and, in general, will not be able to look like a finished product.

For one very important point, preceding the installation of slopes, I would like to draw your attention separately.

Particular attention is paid to preparing the surface of the window opening for finishing.

Even if the slope itself, made, for example, from sandwich panels or polystyrene foam, is a heat insulator, then the connection of the window frame to the plane of the slope must still be made using a special technology.

The principle of this technology has long been formulated and confirmed by many years of experience. It consists of the following: the vapor permeability of all adjoining layers must have a certain order.

From the inside, the barrier should be the most gas-vapour-tight, and its density should gradually decrease as it approaches the outer part of the window opening. This is done so that even that minimal moisture, which in any case has the opportunity to penetrate under the slope, finds its way out.

If this rule is observed, a well-arranged connection of the window to the frame looks like this:

• on the room side, the first (most impervious) layer should consist of butyl rubber tape, for a greater reflective effect, coated with aluminum plating. Sometimes, instead of a special tape, the junction is coated with mastic or silicone, but an effect equal to that obtained when using butyl rubber tape can only be obtained if the mastic layer is at least 6 mm;
• the second layer is ordinary polyurethane foam, which is no longer a good gas-vapor-tight composition, but due to its qualities it can restrain moisture and (which it is especially good at) sound waves;
• the third, outer layer, is a pre-compressed self-expanding tape - PSUL - after gluing it to the frame. It protects the polyurethane foam from exposure sun rays, allows air to pass through well, but prevents the penetration of precipitation.

If the connection is made according to all the rules, then you can start constructing the frame. To do this, you need to stock up on a 60x27 metal wall profile, which is usually used to construct a supporting frame for drywall.

First, a piece of profile is cut out in length equal to the distance from the frame to the edge of the slope. Then a cutout is made on one side of it, which is bent and, using short self-tapping screws with a press washer, attached to the very edge of the window frame so that it is subsequently completely covered by the initial strip.

The opposite side of the profile, after bending the shelves, is nailed to the outer edge of the opening with dowel nails.

All profiles placed on the same plane (they must be installed at a distance of 30 cm from each other and without fail directly above the window sill and in the corners at the joints of the panels) should be aligned along a stretched cord.

Another technical point you can use it if you have to do the finishing of the slopes yourself. And also, knowledge of this nuance will not be superfluous when you have to supervise the work of finishers.

I want to tell you how to properly make an abutment at the junction of the slope and the window frame. For slopes made of plastic panels, penoplex and sandwich panels, what I will say is irrelevant, but plastered or plasterboard surfaces must have this structural element.

Many people have noticed that when the sash hits the window frame sharply, the putty or even pieces of plaster in the place where the slope covers the frame gradually begin to crack and fall off.

Vibration plays the main negative role in the appearance of this defect. plastic surface frame profile. No matter how well the plaster or drywall holds up, the putty covering the joint will inevitably crumble due to mechanical stress.

You can avoid this kind of trouble before puttying, for which you need to clean the joint and fill it with silicone - it will dampen vibration and also reliably close the junction from the passage of moisture and air.

If you want the silicone gasket to be unobtrusive and the same color as the slope, then acrylic silicone is best suited for these purposes, which may have different colors, and even, if necessary, its surface can be painted in any desired shade.

Slopes as an element of interior decoration

According to one dictionary, the word “slope” means a sloping slope or inclined surface.

It is this definition that is most suitable for those planes that we call window slopes. If the plane of the slopes (no matter the side or top) is in a strictly perpendicular position to the window frame, then such a slope is considered to be installed in violation of standard requirements.

One of the standards considered mandatory in the construction of window slopes states that each slope plane must have a certain rotation relative to the window frame, called the “dawn angle.”

The angle of rise of the slope plane must be greater than 90 0 relative to the plane of the window block installed in the opening.

All slopes, both side and top, as a rule, should have the same dawn angle, but in practice this rule cannot always be implemented. More often you can find an option when the upper slope is turned in relation to the frame, but differs in the angle of dawn from the side slopes, which should have exactly the same dawn among themselves.

There are no clearly defined parameters limiting the required dawn angle. It all depends on how much the opening will allow the slope to unfold, and on how the slopes appear to the owner of the house in which they are settling.

Check the angle of dawn on already established slope or, if necessary, calculating it yourself is not difficult. For this procedure you do not need special protractors; a regular ruler and a regular square are enough.

You need to place a square on the edge of the window frame along the edge itself so that you can use a ruler to measure the distance to the junction of the slope with the wall of the room on which the window opening is located.

The resulting distance must be transferred to the opposite slope by placing the square at a point symmetrical to the one used to measure on the previous side.

In the same way, you can make the same angle of dawn for the upper slope by installing a square on the edge of the upper crossbar of the frame and transferring the resulting distance to the junction of the upper slope with the wall of the room.

Watch the video about the advantages of slopes made of sandwich panels:

Disadvantages and advantages of PVC slopes

First of all, it is worth noting that all the disadvantages of plastic slopes lie in the quality of the PVC panels themselves and in poor quality preparation of the junction of the window and the walls of the opening.

Only the quality of the plastic influences whether the plastic will change color during use. Sometimes plastic, being completely white when installed, loses its color over time or, when the temperature increases (for example, under the influence of ultraviolet rays), it emits an unpleasant odor.

I think many will figure out on their own how to deal with this drawback without me - need to check quality characteristics PVC panels before they are installed in the window opening.

As for poor-quality preparation, then, if you decide to install the slopes yourself, you must comply with the conditions that I have already written about in this article.

And if the slopes in your house are being made by a construction team, then careful and total control is necessary during the work.

Only after a control check of the arrangement of the junctions of the frame and the slope can the builders be given the go-ahead to proceed with the work.

We talked about the disadvantages, now let's move on to the advantages.

Let's start with the main advantage: the slope, made of plastic, is a collapsible structure.

Disassembling a structure based on a frame made of a metal profile or wooden blocks is not particularly difficult.

And if the builders took the path of least resistance (to put it simply, they cheated) and, simply, inserted plastic into the fixed planks, then by simply pressing on the panel, you can easily see everything that is under it, and, if necessary, correct the shortcomings made during the construction junction of frame and window.

The next thing to note is ease of care for the plastic surface. It is difficult to get dirty, but even if such a nuisance occurs, cleaning the plastic is as easy as shelling pears.

It can be said that a plastic slope is the most suitable continuation of the finishing surrounding the plastic window. And even for slopes wooden house or rooms with a wood-like finish can be quite easily selected plastic panels, in color and texture matching the material with which the room is decorated.

PVC panels have another clear advantage over other materials used for constructing window slopes - minimum time for their installation.

In addition, when installing plastic slopes in the room where work is carried out, there is much less noise and dust. This is very important in cases where the owners do not plan to do complete renovation rooms, but they are just going to replace the window and install slopes.

Some people who have installed PVC slopes in their apartment note one drawback that, in their opinion, is striking.

We are talking about an F-shaped strip, or more precisely, about that part of it that covers the edge of the plastic at the junction with the wall. It is noted that this part of the bar is too wide (from 3 to 6 cm) and looks interior wall The premises are not very aesthetically pleasing.

I can tell you how to get rid of this, so to speak, shortcoming.

It is enough to just lightly treat the protruding surface of the plank with fine sandpaper, then prime it, and then you can apply anything to it - from wallpaper to acrylic paints.

Speaking about the technical and quality aspects of plastic slopes, I forgot to say that for many, the decisive argument in their favor is the cost of materials and installation work. Here, of course, there are no competitors to plastic.

The material for slopes made of plaster is also not expensive in itself, but the installation work will require considerable investment (I have already considered this issue).

Materials

So, the window block took its place in window opening, the polyurethane foam has dried, the window junctions are hydro- and gas-insulated, which means you can begin installing the slopes. What will it take? Let's start with the materials.

If future slopes will be made of plastic panels, then you need to prepare:

• PVC panels, their usual length is 3m.p. Since the panels on the slopes do not meet along the length, this means that a whole piece is needed for each slope. A standard 1400x1300mm window will require two panels. It is better if there are several windows. In this case, it is possible to organize waste-free production. Yes, and don’t forget to find panels that fit the width of the slope;
• the strips that will serve as the edging and will hold the panel are F-shaped, starting and connecting the inner corner of the profile. These profiles do not have to be installed in whole pieces over long sections; with careful trimming, their joints are almost invisible;
• for the frame construction it is advisable to use ordinary metallic profile 60x27mm, which is used when installing drywall;
• self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2x13. The head of these screws is very flat and will not interfere with the plastic. For a standard window you need about 50-70 such screws;
• dowel-nails 6x60 for nailing a metal profile to the wall;
• a silicone balloon, preferably white.

We have collected a set of materials necessary for constructing a slope. This means that it’s time to take care of the availability of tools, without which it is impossible to assemble the frame and install plastic on it.

Tools required for installing plastic slopes

From construction tools we will need:

• tape measure, the length of which is at least 2 m;
• strip level from 60 to 120 cm long;
• screwdriver for tightening screws;
• hammer drill for installing dowel-nails;
• drill 6x100mm;
• a set of attachments for tightening screws;
• hammer;
• a hacksaw with a fine tooth or a construction knife for cutting plastic panels;
• metal scissors;
• silicone gun.

When everything necessary for installing slopes lies next to the window opening, you can begin to work. I have already described the installation process in detail in this article.

Let me just remind you that the initial profile is placed at the junction of the panel with the window frame and at the place where the panel rests on the window sill.

The internal corner profile connects the PVC panels to each other at their corner joints.

The F-shaped profile is used to fasten the outer side of the PVC panel, as well as to hide its connection to the interior wall.

Some builders foam the space under the plastic for better thermal insulation of the slope. It seems to me that such insulation only gives moral satisfaction to those who use this method, and has no practical benefit.

I'll explain why.

In order for the polyurethane foam to fulfill its function, it must fill a space that is closed on at least two sides. A simple, unrestricted application of foam to the wall will be uneven and, therefore, useless. If you try to apply foam between the panel installed on the slope and the wall, the result will be disastrous, since the foam will inevitably squeeze out the plastic.

If, in addition to a properly arranged junction, you want to additionally insulate the space under the panel, then you can go the other way. To do this you will need polystyrene foam and glue to fix it.

The foam is selected in thickness so as not to interfere with the plastic panel, applied to the wall of the opening and glued.

This internal insulation slope and reliably, and does not cause any trouble during the work.

You can take note of one more nuance. Before installing the plastic panel, it is advisable to cut off its mounting tenon, then the front part will go deeper into the initial profile and, therefore, will be more securely fixed to it.

Technology for leveling plastic slopes in the video:

Which material is better for slopes?

This formulation of the question is not entirely correct; it is better to reformulate it differently: in which room is it best to install a certain type of slopes. In this case, you can give the most correct answer.

If the room is decorated with wood

For a room in which the main finishing element is natural wood or imitation wood, slopes can also be made from either natural wood- linings, either from plastic laminated to look like wood, or from fibreboard also covered with lamination.

What's good this type slope finishing? First of all, a modest expenditure of money if a plastic panel is taken as the basis for the finishing material.

The only thing I would like to note is that wood and laminated fiberboard are still afraid of high humidity.

Therefore, if the only question is that the appearance of the slopes continues the wooden theme of the room, then it is still better to install plastic under the tree. This is all the more simple because the choice of options for plastic panels on the construction market today, as they say, is for every taste and color.

Standard solution to the problem of installing slopes

Slopes made of plaster, puttied and painted are pure classics, and like any classics, they can suit any interior design, except for wood finishes.

The advantage of plastered slopes is their solidity and reliability, as well as their ability to absorb and release moisture. In other words, they can breathe.

However, plaster has many more disadvantages:

• Before plastering, you need to thoroughly insulate the walls of the openings. If this is not done with special care, the plaster can freeze through, since it itself is not a heat-protective composition;
• On the plastered slope, the final finishing layer is usually acrylic paint, which has to be renewed periodically;
• the process of installing slopes takes a lot of time (of course, if all operations are carried out according to technology);
• the cost of installing a plastered slope is significantly higher than the cost of installation using methods using other materials.

Non-standard approach

A new type of finishing of slopes is the installation of a cork covering on their surface.

Although cork is a material that imitates a wooden surface, in my opinion, on slopes it looks like a completely independent finishing element.

The basis for cork can be anything that has a smooth and even surface: plaster, drywall. The cork can be glued to the plastic using a special adhesive composition.

Every home has rooms that can be described as special or intended for specific purposes. These include a swimming pool, boiler room, bathroom, laundry.

Since the premises are defined as “special”, the approach to finishing their slopes can be highly specialized.

What are the requirements for finishing window openings in such premises? They must be reliable, not absorb moisture, repairable and not lose their appearance due to frequent washing.

Only suits the required conditions ceramic tile, glued to a plastered base. You can, of course, glue the tiles onto plasterboard fixed to the frame, but then this slope will not fit the definition of “repairable”, because broken or cracked tiles can only be removed together with the base - plasterboard.

Finishing the slopes using plasterboard installed on the frame, puttied and painted is also one of the ways to improve the appearance of the window opening.

Why do I classify drywall installation as a non-standard method of finishing slopes? Because this method should be used only when the slopes are not located in an area of ​​high humidity.

And you need to remember that only moisture-resistant drywall can be used for finishing slopes.

Although its use does not guarantee complete moisture protection, as, for example, in the case of finishing slopes with PVC panels.

Popular method

The logic that guides those who decide to decorate the window openings of their apartment with plastic is quite simple: if the window is made of PVC, then why not make the slopes from the same material?

And the correctness of this logic begins to be confirmed from the very first moment when builders begin work on constructing slopes.

In the event that the finishing of the slopes takes place in a living room, where no other repair work is being carried out other than replacing a window, this method is indeed the least traumatic for the psyche of the owners of this room, since it does not take much time and leaves virtually no traces.

The next plus: if the need arises, the plastic can be easily dismantled and checked, what state the space underneath is in.

Maybe, given dignity someone will think unnecessary thing, but, based on my experience, I can say that this is not so.

I'll tell you why I think so.

It sometimes happens that after installing a hermetically sealed window in a poorly ventilated room, dark spots appear on the walls, especially in the area of ​​the window opening and in the corners - this problem is called “the formation of moldy fungi.”

The fight against this phenomenon, long and difficult, begins with identifying the causes of mold, and they (the causes) can be of a wide variety of properties. We will consider them all in detail if you receive a question on this topic.

For now, I’ll focus on one of them, which directly relates to our conversation today. This reason is that the initial place for mold to appear can be the window opening, that is, the area around the window covered by slopes.

Mold formation is possible anywhere, but this requires compliance with several mandatory conditions: high humidity, lack of access fresh air, variable temperature, lack of sunlight.

If the connection of the window block with the wall of the opening is made in violation of the rules that I have already told you about, then inevitably, whether under the plaster or under the plastic, mold will begin to appear.

True, mold in plaster travels a longer path before it comes out, but when it appears on the surface of the slope, it can only be completely destroyed by completely dismantling the plaster. Which, as you understand, is not an easy task at all.

When the reason for the appearance of mold is unclear, the only way to find out is to look at all the places where its victorious march through the apartment may have begun.

First of all, you probably want to look at what is being done under the plastic slope and make sure that the window connection is reliable. That’s when the beauty of the quick-dismountable frame for PVX panels, which you will install in your apartment, will be revealed.

Another point in the list of advantages of plastic slopes is their cost b. Even if we add the cost of materials to the cost of work, then plastic slopes are beyond competition.

Moreover, the installation of PVC slopes will be unrivaled if you do them yourself, guided by my recommendations and spending only:

• your personal time;
• a small amount of money for building materials;
• some money for construction tools, which will probably come in handy more than once.

I think we can add here a point about the mandatory presence of a protective tape on the window profile, which many are in a hurry to remove immediately after installing the window unit.

You should be aware that this protection element can only be immediately dismantled from the outside s, since there is a possibility of it being welded to plastic under the influence of high temperature and sunlight.

The protective tape on the inside of the window frame can only be removed after finishing the slopes.

Otherwise, the surface of the window profile may be damaged, especially during plastering work.

When starting to finish the slopes, you need to worry about maintaining the window sill in pre-repair condition. In terms of protection, you cannot place much hope on the film that is applied to its surface, because a tool that accidentally falls out of your hands can leave an “indelible” mark on the surface of the window sill. Therefore, while the slopes are being built, it is best to place a piece of thick cardboard on the windowsill.

If the finishing of slopes consists of applying a plaster composition, then prerequisite The further normal operation of the curtains of window sashes is their preservation from the ingress of sand from the solution. Some builders who did not pay attention to such a “trifle”, after a while, have to explain to the owners of the installed windows why the curtains suddenly began to creak and dangle.

Finally, I again want and must remind everyone who is going to replace the window units in their home and, of course, after this work, decorate the window slopes: the basis for the long-term service of any material used for finishing (even the most popular - plastic) is the high-quality arrangement of seats connection of the frame to the window opening.

About the angle of rotation of the slopes of plastic windows, see the video:

Photo from the site:

Every man who has done home renovations knows that you can lay tiles, install doors, or paint the ceiling yourself and save a decent amount of money on this, rather than giving it to workers as payment.

You may not be able to install a double-glazed window alone, but with slopes things are much simpler. If you do the math, your savings will be about 25%, which is quite a lot. Slopes are a necessary installation element after installing new windows. Even with professional work, traces of damage to the window opening remain, and they must be repaired in order to maintain an aesthetically pleasing appearance. Best season for their installation - summer, since installation work in most cases must be carried out from the street side.

Using plaster

The cheapest option to get rid of the untidy and sloppy appearance of windows is plaster. It should be immediately noted that it is best to use this method if you have undertaken a thorough renovation of the apartment and have not yet hung wallpaper in the room. Otherwise, traces of plaster or putty will remain on the wallpaper and you will have to re-glue it. Think over this moment in advance, save yourself from unnecessary work.

Photo from the site:

When choosing plastering materials, it is important whether the slopes for windows will be installed outside or inside. If the humidity in your home exceeds the norm of 30-60% (use a hygrometer to measure this indicator), then it is best for you to use cement base or special plaster for facades (sold in any construction stores). Use a gypsum, cement or lime-gypsum base if you are installing slopes from the inside.

If you use gypsum plaster, you can do without reinforcement of the upper slope. If you are using another poorly adhering base, it is better to do it on galvanized mesh, this way you will increase the likelihood that the applied layers will adhere tightly immediately after application.

When applying, use a small spatula. When aligning layers, use the trapezoid rule.

It is important to know

Plaster is not a durable material. Over time, traces of cracks and destruction appear on it, both on the top layer and in the internal ones. Therefore, in a couple of years you will need restoration again.

Tips for finishing slopes with plaster

• Pre-protect the window frame from contamination by covering it with some material
• Nail a couple of planks on different sides to guide you and apply the finished mixture evenly.
• Prepare the plaster according to the directions and recommendations on the package. Use a bucket partially filled with water room temperature, and a special attachment on the drill for kneading to obtain a homogeneous mass.
• Thoroughly clean the window surface from traces of dirt and level the rough surface.
• Apply the plaster in several layers, each of which must first be left until completely dry. In this regard, the finishing time varies from 2 to 3 days.
• The last movements should go in the direction of the light: from the window into the interior of the room.

Using drywall

This method is faster and less complicated than the previous one.

All work consists of several stages that follow one after another in sequence:

1. installation of the frame;
2. laying drywall;
3. priming before putty;
4. putty;
5. priming before painting;
6. painting.

At its core, this material is gypsum, which is enclosed on both sides between cardboard sheets.

Photo from the site:

How to make a plasterboard slope yourself:

1. Take the profile corner and cut it into pieces according to the width and height of the window. Then form a rectangle from these beams and attach it along the edge of the window profile using the required number of euroscrews or self-tapping screws. Don’t worry about the appearance, a little later we will hide them under drywall.
2. Pre-calculate all the same parameters we need, then cut out the plasterboard blank. Fill part of the slope with insulation (mineral wool is suitable). The inner edge of the panel with the cut corner will be attached close to the corner. We glue the other edge to the slope with special glue. Drywall is divided into three types: waterproof, fireproof and regular. Most the best option when choosing a material, moisture-resistant plasterboard from Knauf or Gyprok is used. When choosing thickness, note that the best range is from 9 to 12 millimeters.
3. Use sealant and attach a perforated corner at the junction of the side and top panels. Then seal the resulting joint near the window, and thoroughly putty the entire area of ​​the slope. After sanding, coat it with a deep penetration primer and paint it with waterproof PVA paint. Ready!

Use of plastic

The best option today is plastic slopes. Why this particular material? The one-piece design that results from the work fits into any interior and looks most harmonious in comparison with other types of slopes.

Photo from the site: vopros-remont.ru

Advantages of plastic slopes:

• Inexpensive cost;
• Long service life of the material;
• You can choose a color scheme that suits the decor of your room;
• Speed ​​of execution installation work. In 3-4 hours you can easily handle the installation;
• Plastic is easy to clean, so it is easy to care for and keep clean.

Photo from the site:

Plastic also has its disadvantages: if you have a hole or crack in it, you will need to completely replace the slope. You should also be aware that this material is very easily affected by temperature, so extremely high thermal exposure must be avoided.

After installing the double-glazed window, the polyurethane foam will harden completely within 36 hours. Once this time has passed, you can safely install window slopes.

When purchasing plastic slopes, pay special attention to thickness. The minimum thickness should be 8 millimeters. Next, correlate and calculate all the parameters of the plastic (length, width, height) based on the data of your window opening.

What we need:

• F-stripe equal to the length of the plastic panel.
• Plastic panel. The parameters are calculated from the height and latitude of the slopes
• Insulation. You can choose any, but mineral wool is most often used.
• Small wooden block. We will attach it to the sides and tops of the slopes.
• Dowel-nails and self-tapping screws. You will need them in order to attach wooden planks, as well as fix the starting profile
• Silicone. To make it look natural, it is best to choose it according to the color of the panels.

This is interesting

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is widely used in many industries: construction, toys, furniture, industrial products, etc. Its advantages compared to metal are that it is not subject to corrosion, and compared to wood - to rot. Compared to other materials, it is durable and, if handled with care, can last you for decades.

1. Calculate the parameters of your window and make blocks of wood of the appropriate length. Once you secure them on each side, use a drill to drill holes into which you will screw the screws.
2. Go out
3. Use a pencil to mark future holes into which we will then insert dowel nails. Using a level with two ampoules is the easiest way to level the block.
4. After marking, we make the necessary holes and insert the dowel plugs and secure the block, once again checking that everything is level with the spirit level.
5. Install an F-shaped (shaped like the Latin letter F) profile on the block. To do this, use a sawing object (knife, saw, grinder). Also cut out the profile parts for the side slopes. In order to get straight ends, use a tray for cutting boards, which is called a miter box. We will calculate the length we need using the formula: the length of the plastic slope + the width of the part of the profile that will line the slope + we leave 20-30 mm in reserve. Having measured the length that suits us, we cut what we need.
6. We measure from the lower profile the length corresponding to the distance from one edge of the slope to the other. From the part that remains with us, we cut off the strips intended for winding this profile. Next, we use a stapler (construction) and attach the strip to the block.
7. We measure the length of the top strip in exactly the same way as in point 4 and secure it again with construction brackets.
8. We need to accurately calculate the 45 degree angle and cut it off in order to later use it at the junction of vertical and horizontal stripes.
9. One of the last moments before installing the slopes is the installation of the starting profile. Install it using self-tapping screws to the window profile. Pre-mark to avoid unevenness. With a pencil we draw lines at the angle we need.
10. Using our drawn line, we again attach the strip to the profile using self-tapping screws and carefully trim the ends. As a result, you should end up with a structure whose joints fit almost perfectly together; you should not have any difficulty in connecting them.
11. We insulate the empty space between the F-shaped and starting profiles using mineral wool and also install the panels.
12. At the end of the work, be sure to go through all the joints and coat them with silicone. In this way, we will kill two birds with one stone: 1) the tightness will not allow air to pass through the holes, 2) the external attractiveness will be preserved and brought into proper shape.

note

If you have never installed a slope before, then for the first time try to find someone among your friends who will help you master this business. This way you will protect yourself as much as possible from failures, and besides, together you will get the job done much faster.

Video “How to install slopes on plastic windows yourself”

If you decide to go ahead and seal the slopes yourself with plasterboard, plastic or putty, then we advise you to watch this video, in which you can clearly see how to make slopes on a window using improvised means.

After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam, pieces of plaster stick out, and the wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closed in various ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which is plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic with polypropylene foam between them). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both come with step-by-step instructions and photos. Decide for yourself how to attach slopes to plastic windows. Both methods give good results.

Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a starting profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually from the hinge side - completely impossible.

After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.

The installation of slopes for plastic windows begins with preparing the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a stationery knife. It is easy to cut, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold up well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - the foam will slide less.

Then, around the perimeter of the window we nail (we place it on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin strip - 10*40 mm - with the wide side facing the slope.

Nailed around the perimeter of the rail

Usually they don’t level it, they nail it as is, but if you want, you can set it evenly by placing it in in the right places pieces of plywood, thin planks, etc.

Groove for plastic sandwich panel

Now you need to cut the plastic panels correctly. You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, crimp, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on the plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut it off than to cover it up later.

We cut it with a hacksaw and a metal blade, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up straight, without bending. We level it so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even; where necessary, we trim it with a file.

Inserted plastic slope top

Having removed the tried-on and adjusted strip, along the outer edge that will be nailed to the plank, we drill holes according to the thickness of the nails, retreating about 0.5 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to attach and will not damage the plastic.

We put it in place again, take a balloon with mounting foam and short “sprays” to fill the gap with foam. We try to get as deep as possible, but don’t pour too much: when it swells, it can distort the plastic.

Fill it out like this

There are several points to consider when working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not have a very good grip on it. To improve it, either treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, and/or prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it should be swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

Then we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Fixed top plastic panel on the window slope

Using the same technology - cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be sanded. To make the edge smooth it is easier, it is more convenient to process it with sandpaper attached to a smooth block, a file or a sharpening stone (half a circle, as in the photo).

Processing the edge of a plastic panel

We adjust it until it matches perfectly (as best as possible) at the top and bottom, and install it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge to the same level as the wall plaster. You can do this with a stationery knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.

Having removed it, we also drill holes for nails along the outer edge. We install the panel in place, take foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam is not good here either, as it can bend the plastic. Therefore, we fill it in short portions, trying to fill it as deeply as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: apply foam to the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which goes under the frame, before installation. The strip is made continuous or applied as a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut-out groove, positioned as needed, and the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to wet the wall before installation). Once filled, press, level, and secure with nails into the bar.

The upper and lower joints are fixed with masking tape until the foam polymerizes.

To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during the polymerization process, tape the joint at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard you try to adjust the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small ones, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in foam-type tubes and placed in the same mounting gun.

Squeeze the strip into the gap, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp soft cloth or sponge. This operation needs to be done in small areas and wiped carefully - clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from the top - right away - horizontal panel slopes, then joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to be sealed are the joints with the window sill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), acrylic may be drawn into the seam - this is if the cracks are large. Go through all these places a second time using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are any roughness or unevenness, they can be smoothed out with fine-grain sandpaper, folded in half. In general, it is better to carefully level it while it is still wet, otherwise you may scratch the plastic.

Installed plastic slopes

That's it, the plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveling with the surface of the walls. After this you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

Window with plastic slopes (sandwich panels)

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed propylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are pressed through quite easily, and if the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then the jumpers are visible in the light. In sandwich panels and plastic window sills there is no such. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and there are no jumpers even for clearance.

Installation of plastic windows is described here.

Photo report 2: installing plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes using this technology begins with the preparation of the window opening. We cut off the foam evenly, remove everything that does not adhere well, clean off the dust, and if necessary, go over the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Preparing the window opening

A wooden block is attached along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost fit the frame. One side of the block must be worked with a plane, making an inclination. The angle of inclination of this face is equal to the installation angle of the slope. You can saw it off, but it’s more difficult to make it straight unless you have a circular saw with an adjustable angle.

We make a slope on one of the faces of the block

We screw the treated block to the walls around the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try using self-tapping screws; in a concrete wall, you need to install dowels.

Screwing the block

You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the block, and fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler; if you don’t have one, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

We attach the starting profile

When choosing a starting profile, choose a dense one. It’s more expensive, but you only need three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, a soft one will bend and the appearance will be ugly. One more point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them exactly at an angle of 45°. If there are small gaps, they can be sealed with acrylic.

Installed starting profile

Using this technology, it is more convenient to start installing reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you install cheap ones (ceiling), then the front wall is thin, and in bright light the jumpers will be visible. In addition, such plastic can be pressed even with your finger.

We insert a plastic panel into the profile

The width of the plastic panel should be larger than the slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then at the junction you will need an additional vertical strip to which the first strip will be attached.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut along the marked line.

Cut to size

We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make this happen, we start from the far bottom corner - draw from bottom to top near the nailed bar. By the time we reached the top, the foam below had expanded a little. Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should stand. Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part and then the upper part are installed in the same way. It can also be cut out using a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match using sandpaper.

Installed plastic window slopes

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued onto liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly in the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue to both shelves of the corner, press it, moving your hand along it, hold it for a couple of minutes. This is how they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

Installed corners along the perimeter of the slope

After a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

This is what a window with installed plastic slopes looks like

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it with it.

Read how to adjust plastic windows here.

Video

For an option for installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame, see this video.

Video version of installing plastic slopes without a starting profile.

And another way in this video. Here pay attention to the finishing of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.

As a rule, replacing any windows leads to the destruction of the adjacent section of the wall. The question arises: what should be done to make the window structure look beautiful and reliably protect from noise, wind and other troubles of the street? The answer is simple: in this case, repair work cannot be avoided. There are various options for sealing slopes, but to choose the right option, you need to consider them in more detail.

1. About slopes
2. Preparing the window opening
3. Plastering slopes
4. Covering slopes with plastic panels
5. Sandwich paneling
6. Covering slopes with plasterboard

About slopes

The sections of the wall adjacent to the window block are called slopes. They are internal and external. Strict requirements apply to internal areas.

The following functions are assigned to the slopes:

• giving the window structure an aesthetic and attractive appearance. Can you imagine quality window, which is docked with a broken wall;

• improvement of sound and thermal insulation. Window structures that do not have high-quality slopes do not have sufficient tightness;

• protection of installation elements and seams from environmental influences. A high-quality slope not only protects fasteners from corrosion, but also reduces the likelihood of windows fogging and freezing.

Thus, slope repair is a list of works aimed not only at restoring damaged sections of the wall, but also at creating additional insulation.

Basically, one of the following repair options is selected:

1. Plastering the surface followed by painting. Widespread and inexpensive option finishing.
2. Plastic sheathing. Plastic panels are combined with the window profile material; in addition, such repairs do not take much time;
3. Installation of drywall. The option is labor-intensive, as subsequent finishing is required. The material is convenient to use for windows of complex configurations.

For any repair of slopes, first of all, high-quality surface preparation is necessary.

Preparing the window opening

Restoration of slopes begins after their surface has been prepared. Preparation is performed in the following sequence:

1. Use a chisel to knock down damaged and protruding areas.

In order not to destroy the restored slopes, the window sill is installed before the repair begins.

To protect against dirt and broken elements, the window and window sill are protected with paper or polyethylene. It also wouldn’t hurt to protect the window handle and battery under the windowsill.

1. Excess foam is cut off to seal the window structure. The dried foam is cut off with a knife. To do this, you need to pierce the protruding excess from the top of the window, and then remove it with a downward movement. The foam glued to the wall is also removed.

The protective film on the window is removed only after all work is completed.

1. The surfaces of the slopes are thoroughly cleaned. Large dangling fragments are attached to the mortar.

1. To improve adhesion, the surface is primed. Usually, a deep penetration primer is used before plastering; in other options, antiseptics are used.

Plastering slopes

This option for repairing slopes is low cost. To seal, all you need is a finishing mixture, a set of simple tools and water-based paint.

This option also has disadvantages:

• To obtain a very smooth surface, you need to put in a lot of effort and spend a lot of time. An experienced installer performs this work much faster;

• Cracks often appear after plastering. This may be due to a single-layer surface coating, when a thick layer slides down. In addition, cracks appear due to changes in humidity or poor quality of the mixture;

• low thermal insulation window designs;

• lack of adhesion to the plastic from which the window is made.

It is believed that plaster looks more aesthetically pleasing for internal slopes than plastic and drywall.

Plastering begins with the correct selection and preparation of the mixture. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the location of the slope.

• External slopes - located in special conditions: precipitation, wind, temperature fluctuations. It is recommended to use cement and heat-insulating mixtures with a water-repellent effect. This may be a product from Knauf or regular mixture cement and sand.

• Internal slopes must have an aesthetic appearance. To ensure a smooth surface, gypsum mixtures are suitable. Starting and finishing putties from Ceresit are very common.

In any option, the drying time of the solution is taken into account, since further decorating work continues after it has dried.

1. Do not dilute a large amount of solution. This is due to savings - the unused solution dries quickly.

2. The solution is applied in several layers. The next layer is laid after the previous one has dried.

The repair sequence is as follows:

1. The dry mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package.
2. The location of the corner is determined. By using building regulations and level on the wall there is a lighthouse. Determining the starting point of the cornerUsing a beacon and slats

   View from above

3. The solution is applied by spreading or throwing. The plaster starts at the bottom and moves up the slope.
4. Using a spatula, remove excess mortar from bottom to top and create an angle.
5. Decoration can be done in any way. The easiest way is to paint. It is performed after applying a two-layer primer.

Covering slopes with plastic

As noted earlier, plastic is in demand due to easy installation and low cost. Besides this, there are other advantages:

• The material goes well with the window profile. The slope and profile have the same expansion, so there is no tension between them;
• performance characteristics are maintained for up to 20 years;
• withstands temperature changes;
• there is a protective layer that does not burn or melt;
• easy care. Dust and dirt are removed with a damp cloth.

The following sequence is selected for work:

1. A wooden block is attached to the slope so that the window space is not covered.
2. Using a stapler, we attach the starting strip to the block.
3. We cut strips of plastic to size. They are inserted into the starting strip fastener.
4. After everything is inserted, carefully move the panel away from the wall and fill it with foam from the far corner.
5. We fix the panels with mounting tape to the wall.
6. After the foam has dried, the ends of the panels are closed with special corners.

   It is possible to install the corners immediately

Sandwich paneling

When choosing this option, it must be taken into account that the minimum panel thickness is 20 mm.

Without auxiliary profiles, the slope is sewn up within a few hours. The order of plating is as follows:

1. The panels are cut to fit the dimensions of the slope.

1. “Liquid nails” are applied to the panel and it is pressed tightly against the surface of the slope.

1. The gaps between the frame and the panels are sealed.

1. The corners are installed on the outside with glue.

Lining and sandwich panels cannot be repaired. As a rule, they change when damaged. In this case great importance has a choice of shade, as it differs in different batches of material.

Drywall installation

A sheet of plasterboard is a building material in which gypsum is placed between layers of cardboard. The material is indispensable for hiding various wall defects, so it is recommended for slopes.

Its advantages include:

• wide range of uses. Suitable for all types of windows;
• can be used to finish slopes of any size;
• low price;
• quick installation;
• environmental Safety;
• painted in different colors.

There are also disadvantages:

• low strength. Any mechanical impact leaves traces;
• destruction at high humidity;
• rapid wear, requiring additional painting;
• inconvenient installation. When cutting you must use protective equipment, since gypsum dust is harmful to health.

1. Drywall is the base that requires finishing.

2. It is better to choose a moisture-resistant version of the material that is not afraid of condensation on the windows.

There are several ways to cover slopes with plasterboard, but the simplest is considered to be the following installation using putty.

1. The slope is measured from the wall to the frame. If the wall is uneven, then it is necessary to take measurements in several places.
2. The measurements are transferred to the drywall. For convenience, a pattern is made.
3. The future slope is cut out of the sheet. The material is cut with a knife or sawn.
4. Putty is applied along the edges and in the center of the workpiece.
5. The workpiece is pressed tightly against the slope, and a spacer is installed. It takes a day for good adhesion.
6. Very often, aluminum corners are installed to align corners.
7. The surface of the slope is puttied and, after drying, treated with sandpaper.
8. The cladding is completed with two layers of painting. In this case, the window profile and window sill are protected with masking tape.

In general, everyone independently chooses the method of repairing slopes. If the technology of the work is not violated, then it will be beautiful and reliable.

The installation of plastic windows is not always accompanied by finishing of the slopes by representatives of the window company. However, this is understandable - if you do it wisely, the process may take several days. So it will be much better if you do this work yourself. Don't know how to properly make slopes on windows? No problem, let's learn together.

How to choose material for window slopes - looking for options

The functions of window slopes are reduced to protecting the window opening from moisture, as well as providing insulation and noise reduction. Without slopes, even the best windows will not be able to perform their functions efficiently; their absence can lead to serious problems in the future. Therefore, when choosing windows, think in advance about how to properly make slopes and what material to choose for this.

The general requirements are:

• Durability and reliability;
• Resistance to weather conditions typical for your region;
• Sealing and environmental friendliness;
• Thermal insulation and sound insulation of premises;
• Ease of cleaning.

Plaster slopes are one of the most common options, which are suitable for both external and internal slopes. The option, by the way, is very budget-friendly, and the result is long-lasting. A smooth surface and high strength are the undoubted advantages of plaster; moreover, it can be repainted. It should be taken into account that at low temperatures there is a danger of freezing of the slope due to weak thermal insulation properties. Mold formation and moisture condensation are other unpleasant consequences of using plaster. In addition, you must be confident in your abilities - working with plaster requires certain skills or at least a clear understanding of the process.

Drywall for slopes is a middle option between plaster and plastic, both in price and durability. On the one hand, it soundproofs and insulates very well, but if it gets wet for a long time, it collapses. To avoid exposure to moisture, it is recommended to prime and paint slopes with protective compounds that repel water. But drywall is very easy to work with, and even a beginner will have a smooth surface.

Wood finishing is a very effective way that goes well with wooden windows. However, such products require considerable costs and very careful care. The question of how to properly make slopes on wooden windows should only be dealt with by specialists, but it’s worth it - this is an elite slope covering.

Plastic slopes have become widespread along with plastic windows. In many respects, this is the best option: you get a neat, clean surface that is quickly installed, easy to clean and retains heat very well. Even at frosty temperatures outside the window, with proper installation of the slopes, condensation on the elements themselves and on the adjacent section of the wall is eliminated. However, the impact of moisture on the plastic slopes themselves does not threaten them. Over time, plastic parts may turn yellow - this is perhaps the only drawback of the material.

Plastering slopes - how is it done?

It is worth using this method of finishing a window opening only during overhaul when the wall covering changes. During the process of cosmetic repairs, it is better to change the plaster to something less easily soiled - you will definitely ruin the wallpaper. It should be noted that this method is the most time-consuming.

Before making slopes on the windows, it is necessary to clean the surface of the old coating and install beacons - wooden or metal. There are also ready-made plaster beacons that are ideal for beginners. So, the first mark is placed in close proximity to the window block, indicating a layer of plaster of at least 5 cm. Then the beacons are placed at the corners of the opening frame and leveled using a level.

For internal window slopes, dry cement-gypsum plaster is best suited. This solution dries faster, which is important for saving time; moreover, it can be applied in a thicker layer than the same cement-sand composition. It is necessary to mix the solution construction mixer, or use a hammer drill or drill with a special attachment at low speeds.

For external slopes, it is necessary to use a cement mixture or a special façade putty - both materials adequately withstand the effects of moisture and other atmospheric phenomena. Before plastering, it would not hurt to carry out thermal insulation, especially if the windows are plastic - this will avoid fogging of the windows in cold seasons.

The plaster is applied in several passes - each layer requires drying. The first step is to spray - dilute the plaster with a large amount of water and spray the area to be finished with an ordinary broom soaked in the solution. This allows you to get good adhesion between the base and the plaster layer. The second layer should rid the surface of minor irregularities, no more - it is strictly forbidden to apply a thick layer of plaster.

The next layer is applied after the first has dried and primed. The final layer is applied with finishing putty, which is sanded after drying. The gaps remaining at the junction of the window block and the putty should be sealed with a special sealant that can be painted. For high-quality sealing, the joint is cut at an angle of 45° by 2-3 mm, the resulting recess is primed and after a few hours is filled with a sealing compound.

The finished surface should be primed to prevent the appearance of small cracks and prepare it for painting. Usually enamel or acrylic paint, which are applied in two layers. In total, it will take about a week to complete this set of works from the beginning until the last layer of paint dries.

How to make window slopes from plasterboard - instructions for beginners

Drywall has one significant advantage over the same plastic - it can be repaired with minor damage and return a clean, aesthetic appearance. No special skills are required to create a slope from plasterboard. First, you need to create a frame from a galvanized profile - some window companies supply these complete with their products. In any case, a special groove must be provided in the window block, and the profile can be purchased separately.

The installation of slopes should begin no earlier than one day after installing the windows - during this time the polyurethane foam will completely polymerize, and its excess can be cut off and the spacers removed. The guide profile is screwed along the line where the drywall joins the window block using self-tapping screws.

Insulation is laid between the profiles, and then drywall is mounted to the frame. When it is installed, it is sanded and the gaps and irregularities are smoothed out with putty, and only after that they begin to treat with primer. The corners of the drywall should be protected with a galvanized metal profile, which will protect them from delamination. As in the case of plastering, the junction of the window frame and the finished slope is sealed with acrylic putty. It will harden in no less than 12 hours, and only after that the slopes can be painted.

How to make slopes on windows in 2 hours - PVC panels

You already know how to make slopes on windows using plaster and drywall. Now let's figure out how to properly use PVC panels. Finishing slopes with PVC panels will take no more than two to three hours. Not every material is suitable for the job, but only panels that are invulnerable to ultraviolet radiation.

In the case of PVC, nothing needs to be primed or painted - the resulting surface only needs to be wiped with a damp cloth.

First, strips of PVC are cut to the width of the slopes. Then a special profile with a snap-in corner is attached to the slope, which will fix the panels in the desired position. In addition, you should fix the panels to the cleaned surface using liquid nails.

If you don’t have the required profile at hand, you can do it in a slightly different way - attach the panels to wooden slats. The slats are pre-leveled and secured using self-tapping screws and dowels. Then the PVC panels are attached to the bars using a stapler along the edges, and the fastening area is closed with special plastic corners. These corners also protect the wallpaper near the window, which is often torn off by the edges by children or animals.

Installation of slopes is not included in the scope of services of most companies that install plastic double-glazed windows. And if they do, they often charge exorbitantly high fees for their arrangement. However, if you have the appropriate materials and equipment, as well as basic knowledge, this task can be completed without the involvement of specialists. This article will discuss how to make slopes for plastic windows with your own hands. There are 3 main ways to install slopes: installing PVC or gypsum sheets, plastering. Thanks to the slopes, hydro- and thermal insulation is provided.

Plastering the slopes will take time. This method of finishing slopes is usually performed during major repairs. At the same time, in the process of in-line cosmetic repairs, as a rule, other methods of finishing slopes are chosen. This is due to the fact that during the process of plastering and puttying, the wallpaper around the opening will certainly be damaged, which will lead to the need to replace it. If during dismantling old surface If the edge of the slope has crumbled, then you need to install a metal corner.

The first beacon should be installed near the window block so that the plaster rests at least 50 mm on the frame. In this case, it is installed strictly horizontally. The second beacon should be installed at the corners of the slope. Along the entire perimeter, the distance between the beacons should be the same.

Dry gypsum plaster is quite suitable for finishing window slopes from the inside of a room. The easiest way is to mix it with a construction mixer. If you need to fill up deep potholes in old slopes, then this type of plaster will suit you better than a sand-cement mixture.

So, add sand to the mixture at the rate of ½. This is the case if you have to make a layer more than 3 cm. In this case, the sand must be sifted. As for external window slopes, they need to be treated cement mixture or starting façade putty. At the same time, it must contain a water-repellent composition.

To prevent the glass of plastic windows from sweating during the cold season of the year, the slopes should be insulated before plastering. It is worth considering that single-chamber double-glazed windows will definitely “sweat”, and if the slopes are not insulated, then condensation will also collect on them and then bloom will appear.

Plaster should be applied in several layers. Moreover, each of them requires preliminary drying. First, spray, then apply primer in 1-2 layers and finishing layer. To completely level the surface, the slopes should be puttied. In this case, the putty layer should be small. After drying, the finishing putty is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper or a sander. The gaps at the junction of the putty and the door block should be sealed with sealant, which can later be painted. The joint should be trimmed with a stationery knife by 2–3 mm at an angle of 45º. Then the recess is primed. The resulting groove should be sealed. In this case, the strip should be as even as possible, which masking tape will help you with. The sealant is leveled with a rubber spatula. Then you can remove the tape.

Before painting the slope, it must be primed. The paint on the slope is applied in two layers. The next layer is applied after the previous one has dried. Completing all stages of plastering the slope will take you about a week.

Drywall slopes are more practical, unlike their plastic counterparts. If such a slope made of gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard) is damaged, it can be repaired. To do this, you will need to putty the gypsum board slope, sand it and paint it. Installing slopes from gypsum plasterboard does not require special skills, but their installation will require a lot of time.

All work consists of several successive stages:

• frame installation;
• laying gypsum board;
• primer before putty;
• putty;
• primer before painting;
• painting.

A significant disadvantage of such slopes is that they absorb moisture. Because of this, they cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity and for exterior finishing.

High-quality metal-plastic windows are equipped with a profile for installing slopes made of moisture-resistant gypsum board. The presence/absence of a profile can be checked with the manufacturer before purchasing windows.

Immediately before installing the window, the profile is installed in a specially prepared groove. If there is no groove, then use a galvanized L-shaped profile. This profile is screwed to the edge of the frame. You can insert cut strips of gypsum board into it. Drywall must have the most accurate dimensions. Apply acrylic sealant to the profile, and then insert drywall into it. Fill the distance from the side of the window to the slope with mineral wool. To finish, press the drywall gently and evenly onto the wall.

If you have to install slopes of expensive wooden double-glazed windows, then the algorithm of actions will be slightly different:

• Drywall is installed on the edge of the window profile. To ensure that there is an equal gap around the perimeter of the window, you can make a template.
• The fragment adjacent to the window must be filled with foam. For a tight connection to the wall, glue is used.
• On the window profile, which is located closer to the edge, adjacent to the gypsum board, tape should be glued so that the indentation along the entire perimeter is 2-3 mm.
• Then apply acrylic sealant with a gun. Use a damp finger to smooth the sealant, and then remove any excess from the surface of the window. Then you should remove the masking tape.

Installing gypsum board without a frame is usually used when finishing old slopes. At the beginning of work, completely clean the surface of the old finish. Prime the prepared surface.

The drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws and the Perfilix adhesive mixture is applied pointwise. Considering that this mixture hardens very quickly, drywall should be measured and cut in advance.

In order for the gypsum board to be fixed and the glue to be evenly distributed, it should be pressed with a block and gently tapped rubber mallet. To fix the upper slope, install a spacer to the window sill. The upper slope is fixed with spacers to the window sill. In order for the surface to fix, it must be kept in this position for at least an hour. For the glue to dry completely, it is enough to wait up to three days.

During this time, the joint between the drywall and the wall should not be sealed; this will allow the adhesive mixture to dry faster. As for the edges of the slope, they can be sealed with sealant. Finally, the surface is puttied with finishing putty, sanded and painted.

Plastic slopes are the easiest to install. Their advantage is durability and resistance to moisture; they also do not need to be looked after in any special way. The tone of the plastic can be selected depending on the color of the window, as well as the style of the room. To carry out heat and sound insulation, you need to purchase foam insulation/mineral wool in advance. Plastic slopes can also be installed on an old base or installed from scratch.

The peculiarity of plastic slopes is that they can be used for finishing window openings inside and outside. They can be installed even on the day the glass unit is installed. So, there are several types of them:

• Made from foam plastic.
• Made from gypsum board with plastic coating.

Increasingly, sandwich panels are being used to finish slopes. This is due to the low cost of the material, with high moisture resistance. Thus, sandwich panels can be glossy, matte, or with a texture that imitates wood. Their structure is similar to a sponge. This in turn improves the thermal insulation properties of the slopes. In this case, panels 1 cm thick are used.

Along the outer edge of the opening, a wooden strip is fastened with self-tapping screws strictly according to the level. In this case, the load of the slope will be taken by the rail, which means that it needs to be thoroughly secured.

The starting profile is installed in the groove. The slope is subsequently fixed to it and then insulated. In this case, the insulation is placed under the plastic. The outer edge of the slopes should be secured to the wall with screws or dowels.

If the slopes are installed on brackets, then the algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• The first bracket is attached to the wall. A double-sided mounting tape will help you with this, and the second one to the slope.
• The brackets must be connected to each other with self-tapping screws.
• The side slopes need to be fixed to the window sill with glue, and then connected to the neighboring ones.
• Then the seams are sealed.

Slopes made of foamed PVC have a relatively smooth surface. They can be cut with a grinder. If you need to bend PVC, make cuts at the bend points. The semicircle shape for finishing the slope is easiest to make from foamed PVC. In this case, the furrows should not exceed one third of the thickness of the slope.

The cuts must be treated with an adhesive composition.

Glue is applied into the grooves in the mounting foam, and then the panel is installed. As described above, in the subsection on installing gypsum slopes, you need to install a metal profile in the box. You can then secure the PVC foam into it. The space between the wall and the plastic must be sealed with foam, leaving small gaps, as the foam will swell.

Then you need to secure the profile to the outer corner. Treat the joints with silicone. It is important to smooth its surface. This can be done with a damp cloth/rubber spatula. Installation of slopes made of gypsum board with plastic coating is carried out in a similar way.

Installing slopes yourself is an opportunity to acquire new useful skills and save a lot of money at the same time. In addition, if the installation of slopes is carried out correctly, you will be able to hide defects in construction and repair work and some shortcomings that were made during the installation of PVC windows.

Video

To better understand the progress of this work, we suggest you watch the video.

If the apartment is not undergoing cosmetic renovation, but a full one - with replacement of windows, interior doors, purchasing expensive wallpaper, the issue of saving the family budget becomes very relevant. You can save money by doing some of the work yourself. Such simple work even for a beginner, but nevertheless very expensive when performed by hired specialists, includes the installation of window slopes. Try making slopes on plastic windows with your own hands - it’s easy and fun.

Materials for decorating window slopes

The materials used for finishing window openings are as follows:

• Plaster;
• Drywall;
• Plastic.

slopes on plastic windows

Each of them has its own pros and cons; before choosing a material, it is better to familiarize yourself with them in advance.

Material	pros	Minuses
Plaster	Cheap consumables Minimum tools required (but maximum patience)	Production time – from 10 to 14 days During the next repair, part of the plaster may crumble - the slope will need to be restored After drying, small cracks always form in the joints with the window due to the different expansion of the window materials and the slope when the temperature changes. Subsequently, they may expand and the window will lose its neat appearance.
Drywall	The top layer of drywall can be easily repaired - the surface is puttyed again, primed and painted	Installation duration Drywall is unstable to moisture - cannot be installed in rooms with excessively humid air, such as the kitchen
Plastic	Durable Easy to clean Does not require painting Easy to install Resistant to moisture	Over time, the surface of the plastic may become scratched and lose its original whiteness.

When choosing plastic, you should pay attention that the panel must be resistant to mechanical damage and ultraviolet radiation (otherwise it will quickly lose color, turning into a yellowish something!). Sandwich panels that best meet these requirements have a stable outer layer, an inner layer consisting of insulation (usually expanded polystyrene), and a moisture-resistant PVC sheet.

plastic panels for slopes on PVC windows

We plaster ourselves

If the openings on the windows have a fairly flat and strong base, you can choose this type of finishing. To work you will need:

• building level;
• dry gypsum plaster (or cement and sand, when plastering slopes with a sand-cement mixture);
• sealant;
• a spatula (many people use two - a small and a large one, the first to take the solution from the container and apply it to the second - a wider one - along the entire length);
• putty;
• primer;
• grinding machine or fine sandpaper;
• dye desired color(you can use both solvent-based enamels and acrylic paints).

Attention! Important! When plastering window openings, part of the wall around the window is affected, so if you don’t want to damage the existing wallpaper, it’s better to choose a different finishing material!

plastering slopes after installing plastic windows

The first stage consists of preparing the surface for applying plaster. The rule here is one and simple - the surface must be clean and strong (all crumbling and falling out parts must be removed). Before starting work, it must be brushed with a paint brush and primed.

Preparation of the solution and plastering itself

Dry gypsum plaster is diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations written on the packaging. You should not experiment so that after some time you do not have to do all the work again, and perhaps after the finishing of the room this will hardly be possible.

If cement mortar is used, it is better to adhere to classic recipe: The ratio of water, cement and sand should be 1:2:1. In this case, the layer thickness should not exceed 3 cm. It is better to sift the sand before work.

preparing a solution for plastering slopes

Advice: You should not prepare a lot of solution at once - when prepared from a gypsum mixture, they dry out quickly, which makes their further use difficult.

After applying the first layer of plaster, it is necessary to insulate the window opening around the entire perimeter. Otherwise, due to temperature changes, PVC windows may fog up. Foamed polystyrene can be used as insulation, which is glued in a layer about 5 mm thick. Then, it is also covered with plaster.

Outside the window, the walls are affected - about 5-10 cm are also plastered. The corners are leveled with a spatula.

Little trick: If the corners of the opening are severely damaged during dismantling/installation of the window, you can straighten it using a perforated aluminum corner. A piece of the required size is simply pressed into the still damp plaster, and then allowed to dry and putty. The corner comes out like new!

The evenness of the resulting surface is periodically checked using a building level.

After application, each layer is thoroughly dried, and then primed 1 or 2 times.

After applying the plaster, the entire surface is sanded with sandpaper (the work is done only after complete drying).

The final step is simple:

1. The resulting surface is primed
2. Then they putty (the layer should not exceed 3 mm; if it is necessary to make more than one, each one is dried and primed separately)
3. Sand with fine sandpaper
4. The joints are coated with sealant
5. Paint the resulting slopes in the desired color

Drywall wisdom

The main thing is not to forget when working with drywall: measure seven times, then cut! Therefore, take in advance all the necessary dimensions for the preparation of future slopes - height and width. It’s better to double-check everything at this stage ten times than to buy the missing sheet later. Drywall is a favorable material for cutting - you can redraw the mock-ups of blanks several times, making maximum use of the surface.

finishing window slopes with plasterboard sheets

Recommendation: you need to cut drywall in three stages - first, use a sharp knife to cut the first layer of cardboard along the markings, then break the gypsum core with a gentle blow from the other side, and lastly, cut the second layer of cardboard.

Quite often, the workpieces are cut out a little with a margin, so that it is possible to adjust the dimensions during the work. However, if the wall is uneven, cut out the most accurate dimensions - all unevenness can later be plastered.

Installing plasterboard slopes with your own hands is possible in two ways - with the construction of a frame and without it.

The frame is not used when there is a sufficiently strong base. In this case, the drywall is attached to it with self-tapping screws; for additional fixation, construction adhesives (special for drywall) are used. The drying time with this method is about 3 days.

Attention! Construction adhesives dry very quickly, so prepare everything before starting work. necessary materials!

All voids between the sheets and the wall must be either foamed or insulated with any other material.

During installation frameless method It is imperative to use spacers so that the resulting structure does not move in different directions during the drying process.

A guide profile is used to make the frame. You can ask a window manufacturing company - very often they sell the necessary materials, or you can buy an L-profile at any hardware store.

Places for attaching the guide profile - the perimeter of the window and the joints of the drywall. Before fixing the slopes, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation - the best option in this case is mineral wool. After which you can start fastening the cut blanks to the profile with self-tapping screws.

finishing slopes using the frame method

After assembling the main structure, all cracks and joints are carefully puttied, then the surface is sanded. The joints of window blocks and slopes are covered with masking tape, onto which a special acrylic putty is applied.

Painting of the manufactured slopes can be carried out after the putty and putty have completely dried - no earlier than after 12-14 hours.

To make the finished window look neat, cover the junction of the slope and the wall with a plastic corner.

Plastic perfection

The most logical thing for plastic windows is to trim the slopes with plastic. You can use either thin plastic or sandwich panels. The only difference during installation is that thin plastic is attached directly to the base, otherwise it will easily bend and ruin the appearance of the window.

To work you will need:

1. PVC panels (optimal size – length 6 meters, thickness 7 mm)
2. U-shaped starting bar
3. F-bar
4. Wooden slats 1-1.5 cm thick and 3-6 cm wide
5. Special construction stapler (staple size 6-8 mm)
6. Construction adhesive, sealant
7. Self-tapping screws, fleas, small dowels

The advantage of installation from PVC sheets– there is no need to somehow additionally prepare the surface for work. Except, perhaps, to make additional vapor and heat insulation. The materials are still the same - mineral wool, any insulation, polyurethane foam.

You can additionally treat the wall with a special antiseptic solution, then even in the most favorable conditions mold will not develop. It is under plastic slopes that it settles most quickly, especially if, during installation, cracks into which moisture gets in were left unsealed.

The work plan will be as follows:

Installation of the initial profile - U-shaped strip. It is secured around the perimeter of the window opening with self-tapping screws.

Then a sheathing is made of wooden slats over the entire surface, secured with dowels.

The gap between the top rail and the side rails should be 8-10 mm. This is where the panel will be inserted.

Work starts from the top panel. A piece of the required length and width is cut out of PVC panels. One end of the cut piece is inserted into the profile, and the other is screwed to wooden slats with flea screws or a construction stapler. All work is carried out level, if necessary, wooden dies are placed.

After this, they proceed to the side slopes, PVC panels to which are attached according to the same principle.

The edges are closed with an F-shaped strip, which also forms the platband. It is attached to construction glue. To prevent the plank from falling off while the glue dries, it is secured for 2-3 hours with construction tape.

In order for the platband to look beautiful, the F-shaped strip is cut as follows: measure the height of the window (for the side trim), and then cut off the narrow part of the strip by a few centimeters. From the place where they started to cut, cut an angle of 45 0 (this place will stick to the wall. The same is done with the upper casing (for it, measure the width of the window and make cuts in both directions).

After assembling all the slopes, the joints are sealed. To do this, use a sealant, which is carefully leveled with a small rubber spatula.

The last secret

The disadvantages of this method of installing plastic slopes with your own hands include the fact that the P-profile is very noticeable. It is rarely possible to perfectly match the color of the panel and profile.

However, there is an installation option without using the initial profile.

For the most painstaking, we can suggest the following sequence of work:

1. A gap is made in the foam around the window frame. Suitable for this sharp knife. The width of the gap should be about 1 mm, the depth - about 10 mm.
2. The crate is made in the same way as in the previous version.
3. But the slope blank is inserted with a tenon into the nest you cut out. Its opposite end is also fixed with screws.

Then everything is carried out according to the previously proposed plan. After all the work on improving the window opening has been completed, you can remove the protective film from the windows (don’t forget, it’s still on them). Installing slopes of plastic windows with your own hands is quite simple, you just have to want it and everything will work out!

Replacing old frames with modern plastic windows is half the task. The next stage, which is often forgotten, is the installation of window slopes. Proper execution and the finishing of slopes plays no less important role in insulating an apartment than. You can invite a craftsman to carry out the work or save a little on builders and make the slopes yourself.

In contact with

Classmates

Types of slopes

The complexity of finishing the slopes depends on the quality of the walls, the accuracy of the craftsmen when working with windows and the chosen material for finishing. There are only three basic methods:

• followed by decoration (painting or wallpapering);
• plastic framing;
• covering .

Slopes are also made of wood - coniferous (most often pine) or valuable species (beech, oak, mahogany). This is a rather labor-intensive method that requires professional work with wood. Wooden slopes look stylish in expensive interiors, where the rest of the furnishings are also made using wood. You can complete the repair yourself if you choose a simpler material for the slopes of plastic windows.

Plastic slopes

Plastering and painting slopes

This method of processing slopes is the most economical and simple. The finished dry mixture, which is based on gypsum or cement, is mixed with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer, after which the material is ready for use.

Note!

Before applying plaster, the surface around the window is cleaned of dust, dirt, sagging or foam.

The seams of corners and slopes are widened so that the plaster adheres better to the base - the brick wall. The wall is plastered first, and only then the slopes are started.

Installation of slopes

Sealing cracks

When making slopes, additionally check the tightness of the joints of the wall and window. The detected cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam, or you can use tow or felt. Fabric materials are treated with a gypsum solution and fixed around the perimeter of the frame.

There should be 2-3 cm left to the side parts of the window opening - this gap will be filled with plaster. When the material has dried, work can continue. Window slopes Do it yourself, although it’s not very fast, but you can be sure of the quality of each stage of the work.

Plastering slopes - the final stage

A little solution is placed in the groove of the slope, leveled, wait until it dries and move on to the next layer. In one go, you can apply 5-7 mm of the solution, then you need to wait for the material to dry completely. Level the layers from bottom to top.

Before applying plaster top part The slope is fixed with a horizontal plank of wood - its edge must be perfectly smooth. Fix the lath to the plaster or with nails, aligning the guide along.

Slopes on the windows

Advantages of plastic slopes

Installing plastic slopes will take much less time than working with plaster. This option for finishing windows will not cost much more, but there will be less dust and dirt after completing the slopes, and the process will go faster.

Plastic panels are made of the same material as the window frames. When temperature changes, slopes and frames expand equally, no excess stress is created. There is no need to paint or additionally prepare PVC panels for installation. To eliminate the “consequences” of the repair, a damp cloth is enough, and the entire installation process will take no more than 2 hours.

For slopes, plastics are suitable that are not exposed to the harmful effects of solar radiation and are quite durable, resistant to scratches and impacts. Typically, sandwich panels are selected with a top layer of plastic, an intermediate layer of insulating material, and a bottom layer of moisture-resistant PVC.

How to make slopes on windows with your own hands video:

Installation of plastic slopes

First, fragments are cut out of the panels according to the size of the slopes. The panels are fixed to the cleaned surface using “liquid nails”. A rail with a snap-on corner secures the plastic in the selected position. Instead of this design, you can use simple wooden slats, fixing them at the top and sides of the window opening. The panels are secured to the guides with a stapler.

The joints of the walls and slopes are decorated with plastic corners. Their purpose is to keep the wallpaper on the walls adjacent to the window intact. These are the parts that are most often damaged by children and pets.

When making slopes on windows with your own hands, it is worth observing technological nuances. It is better to select plastic panels to match the shade of the window, since they do not have to be painted. Before using the panels, the mounting tenon is cut off from them. The panels should be cut with a special knife or jigsaw.

Polyurethane foam may become deformed when it hardens. To prevent this from happening and to ensure that the slopes remain level, foam with a minimum expansion coefficient is selected. The slopes need to be fixed for an additional 5-10 minutes until the foam “sets”.

Drywall slopes

Do-it-yourself slopes for plastic windows are quite easy to make from plasterboard. For work, choose a moisture-resistant material that will not be damaged by random drops of rain and condensation accumulating on the glass. Alternative option- the use of ordinary drywall, which will additionally be coated with several layers of primer or a special protective composition.

When making slopes from plasterboard, sometimes a window block with profiles on the sides is installed - it will be the basis of the entire structure. Before installing the block, the profile must be fixed in the window grooves. Then the system will be more reliable and rigid, and installation will be easier.

Installation of plasterboard slopes without a window block

You can do without ready-made frames by doing everything preparatory work on one's own. In this case, you will need a profile in the shape of the letter “L” and fix it along the edges of the frame, creating a base for attaching sheets of drywall. The material is cut exactly to size; inconsistencies can later be masked and corrected with plaster. Sealant is applied to the profile acrylic base, then insert a sheet of drywall. The distance between the window and the slope is laid with a layer of mineral wool, a layer of glue is applied to the near edges, and using a level, the sheet of drywall is carefully pressed against the wall.

Alternative methods for installing plasterboard slopes

It is not necessary to use a profile when designing slopes. You can secure drywall:

• on polyurethane foam;
• on glue.

Use metal frames convenient in cases where the surface under the slopes was severely damaged during the installation of windows. Fastening plasterboard panels with glue or foam is similar to fastening to a profile. In this case, the sheets are installed end-to-end or behind the frame, the seams are filled with sealant. After completing the work, the surface is primed, covered with putty and two layers of paint.

Note!

The corners of the slopes can be covered with decorative corners.

Drywall slopes are not only profitable and easy to install. The surface of the material can be further decorated, which allows you to decorate the windows in the style of the entire room. The slopes will not contrast with the design of the room and spoil the impression of the interior.

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