How to make a gun from wood, elastic arrows. A simple gun that shoots rubber bands. Scheme of manufacturing and assembly of a rubber arrow


Have a nice day, Gentlemen! In this article I will tell you and show you how I made such a miracle weapon from wood. I still haven’t decided on the name, whether it’s a machine gun or a miniga, but that’s not the point. His main task is shooting with rubber bands, which he copes with with a bang. This homemade product does not pose any danger to people and animals, because it is a rubber arrow. I spent almost a month creating it, sawing, assembling, and gluing this unit in the evenings. I practically didn’t make any drawings, there were only small pencil sketches on A4 sheet. Everything was in my head and was done “by eye” (may the engineers forgive me). I loaded 130 rubber bands on this machine gun, but you can load 3 times more if you load it not in one row, but in 3. Well, okay, it’s time to start showing and telling, because the article will turn out to be quite large.

I will tell you the necessary materials and tools along the way.

Testing and manufacturing of a rubber arrow can be seen in my video:

Step 1: I decided to make a rubber arrow from the butt. All parts will be made from 20 mm thick boards. I repeat, there are no drawings, everything is “by eye”. After we have cut out all the necessary parts, we begin assembly. I connected the parts with wood glue and self-tapping screws.






This is the butt I came up with, it looks pretty nice :)




Step 2: Next, cut out 2 of these overlays from the board. This will be the handle. Using a chisel we make grooves, as in the photo, they are needed so that the trigger can be pressed and have a “stroke”. We glue them together with wood glue and tighten them with a clamp.






Step 3: From the same board we cut out such a part as in the photo. It will be the “base”, since all the parts will be attached to it. Next we make a small groove for the trigger. I cut the trigger from a piece of laminate. And then we glue the previously made handle and screw in 4 screws for reliability.








Step 4: Then we cut out two of these pieces. And glue them to the base, and also glue the butt.






Step 5: We make this holder for a weapon bipod. Nuts are glued inside, and the bipods themselves will be connected with bolts.






Step 6: To make it convenient to hold our machine gun, we cut out 5 of these U-shaped parts and glue them in place.






Step 7: Next I made 11 sticks like this. Their length is slightly longer than the length of the elastic band. Then I cut out two stars like this from the laminate. I glued all the sticks onto the star with wood glue, and this is how I got the drum. The sticks need to be made as even and “round” as possible so that they fit tightly to the star. Then, having made the markings, I drilled holes for the nails, then glued them in and shortened them to the required length - 8-10 mm.














Step 8: Cold welding I glued one bearing on each side. Then I installed the drum in its place. The drum is mounted on two axes, the axes being two bolts that are tightly inserted into bearings.








Step 9: Then we make a stand like this for the motor. I took the 12 V motor and installed it in its place. To hide the motor, I made this decorative protection.








Step 10: We glue a small bearing into one end of the cylindrical block, and on the other side we glue the cartridge that came with the motor. Then we install the cartridge on the motor shaft, and a bolt is inserted into the bearing.






Step 11: Glue on decorative little things: a sight, various small parts, trigger protection, etc.








Step 12: Let's start assembling the electrics. I took a button like this and glued it to its place with thermal glue, so that when pressed with a finger, the trigger would press this button. Several rubber bands return the trigger to its original position. A block glued on top prevents the trigger from rising up. Then we assemble a simple circuit that includes a motor, a button, a box for 18650 batteries and a step-down module. I ordered all the components from a well-known Chinese store. Since the motor is 12V, and four batteries are almost 15V, a step-down module is definitely needed, especially since they can regulate the speed of the motor, and therefore the firing speed of the rubber bands.

In the laboratory of the Secret of the Master, another sample of a weapon was built - a rubber-shooter pistol. The toy compares favorably with other previously built models due to its multiple charges and the presence of a shot sound.

How to make a rubber gun with your own hands

The basis was taken as a ready-made model of the Parabellum pistol. Repeating the pistol in comparison with the previous one (see for everyone who is making a rubber gun for the first time) turned out to be not very difficult, although one detail had to be redone by clarifying the drawing. The construction material is simple - scraps of planed boards 15-20 mm thick, pieces of five-layer and three-layer plywood. You will also need: a piece of metal rod or nails with a diameter of 3-3.5 mm, six small screws or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head, PVA glue and a spring from a fountain pen. Tools for work - a jigsaw, a drill with a set of drills, a clamp, medium-grain sandpaper, a screwdriver, a metal saw or wire cutters.

Scheme of manufacturing and assembly of a rubber arrow

  1. Download and print the template. Link at the end of the instructions. We cut out the part templates not along the contour and, guided by the wood fibers (see photo), paste the part patterns F1 (handle), F2 (barrel), F3 (stop), M2 (trigger) onto a piece of board. We glue templates P1 (box wall), M1 (shutter) onto a piece of five-layer plywood. Template P2 (overlay) is glued onto a piece of three-layer plywood. The number of cut parts P1 and P2 is two pieces each.
Rubber gun
  1. Using a jigsaw, we cut out the parts of the rubber thrower according to the templates. We must be patient. The pistol requires precision, especially in the manufacture of moving parts of the slide and trigger (M1 and M2). Assembly experience has shown that it is better to lengthen the trigger at the top by 2-3 mm. Make this mark immediately after gluing the template (see photo). When assembling and adjusting, it is better to sharpen the part than to redo it again. Be careful not to damage the template paper with hole marks.
  2. We prepare two metal axles; with a board thickness of 18 mm, the axles will be 32 mm long. The axes must be straight and the ends free of burrs and irregularities.

    You should also be careful when drilling holes. Be sure to mark the centers of the holes with your own hands before drilling - with a core, an awl, or a nail. Holes for mounting screws in the walls of the box (part P1) can be drilled with a 3 mm drill and the edges for the conical head can be selected with a drill bigger size. Holes for metal axles (see drawing and photo) should be 0.1-0.2 mm larger diameter axes. That is, the axis should move in the hole, but not dangle.

Modification of the trigger Part for the axle
  1. We drill a hole in the rubber release bolt (M1), the diameter of the hole should be 0.1-0.2 mm less than the diameter of the axis. You must drill strictly vertically!
  2. Drill a hole in the trigger (M2) along the diameter of the axis. You must also drill strictly vertically! If there drilling machine, then this will help a lot.

    We clean all the details sandpaper, the pistol handle and trigger hook can be given an anatomical shape, all protruding edges of the parts can also be rounded. Thoroughly clean the areas where the rubber bands of the barrel and bolt touch. Attention! The tops of the shutter (M1) should not be rounded! Do not round the upper edges of the trigger! If you are making a masterpiece, you should sequentially process the external parts with sandpaper with a lower grit number.

    The trigger part (M2) must rotate freely in future box, therefore it is necessary to reduce its thickness by 1-1.5 mm. This is done by grinding down the side surface with sandpaper.

    We insert the axle into the trigger of the crossbow and, with light blows of a hammer, insert the axle into the bolt (M1)

    We place one pad on a flat surface and place the parts of the handle, barrel and gun stop and check the operation of the mechanism (watch the video). The handle should take its position and not interfere with the operation of the shutter and act as a stop for the trigger in the extreme position of the shutter release. The barrel should also limit the movement of the trigger when releasing the bolt. When the bolt is cocked, it should rest on the trigger pad. Understand and understand the operation of the mechanism so that actions can be taken further work were conscious. If necessary, sharpen the bolt support pad on the trigger.

    Use a pencil to mark the position of the handle, barrel and stop on the wall of the box. We cover the parts to be glued with PVA glue and, using overlays, glue the handle of the rubber shooter, the wall of the box, the barrel and the stop together in the designated places. The parts are tightened with a clamp until the glue dries completely. Make no mistake about it correct location details!

    Marks on the wall Gluing parts
    1. After gluing, we reinsert the moving parts and check the operation of the mechanism. To return the trigger, a spring must be installed. To do this, drill a hole in the trigger with a depth of 4-5 mm. We insert the trigger with the spring into place))). If necessary, shorten the spring a little. Tests have shown that the spring from the handle constantly wants to jump out; for this, a small depression was made manually on the barrel stop (see photo), which solved the problem.
    2. We install the second wall of the crossbow cover. After installation, the shutter should be positioned without distortion and rotate without special effort, and the trigger freely returns to its original position after pressing. If this does not happen, eliminate the cause; you may have to cut it out new wall, if the holes are made inaccurately. Holding the wall with your hands, check the operation of the mechanism for all four shutter positions. Remember the position of the wall.

      Secure the second wall with screws. To avoid cracking of parts, you can drill the parts thin drill 1.5-2 mm. Fire four control shots. Is the rubber gun shooting? Hooray. We install screws on the first wall.

      Apply pads to cover the bolt and trigger axes.

    Parts are glued together Checking operation Hole for spring Spring installed

A gun that shoots rubber bands made of wood - a weapon or an office toy.

As a child, every boy would dream of such weapons. However, at that time it was necessary to launch rubber bands using your fingers or make special crossbows from boards, nails and clothespins. Now you can solve the problem of weapons quite simply - buy a wooden pistol that shoots rubber bands.

Buying a gun that shoots rubber bands will make every little boy’s dream come true.

Undoubtedly, even a child can use this weapon, since contact with a soft rubber band will not harm even indoor plants. The only limitation imposed almost by the manufacturer itself relates to office workers, who are strictly prohibited from aiming and shooting at their superiors. Otherwise, instant disarmament and capitulation of the employee is possible.

The operating principle of a wooden rubber band gun is very simple. The rubber band is stretched onto the barrel of the gun at one end, and the other clings to a special drum. The trigger releases the end of the rubber band, grabbed by the drum, and the rubber band flies right to the target. If you are particularly bothered opposing side, you can load several rubber bands at once, which will allow you to fire like buckshot. You can buy a gun for shooting rubber bands for students, schoolchildren and adults with higher education for a pleasant lunchtime.

Features of the wooden rubber band gun:

  • Material: natural wood;
  • Shoots with rubber bands;
  • Suitable for both children and adults;
  • Gun dimensions: 20 * 10 * 2 cm;
  • Gun weight: 92 g;
  • The product is targeted at markets: Europe, Russia.

As a child, did you like to shoot with rubber bands? Well, who didn’t love it? Yes, we had a difficult childhood. Because we didn't have such a wonderful gun that shoots rubber bands.

Do you want to remember your youth, or maybe you want to give a cool gift to your son, brother, nephew or offspring of your friends? Then buy Wooden pistol shooting rubber bands.

This miracle of engineering will allow you to accurately and very effectively fire at pets, friends or even colleagues in the office. In this case, shooting will be completely safe, no matter where you end up. The exception is if you hit the boss, although there are options here too.

A gun that shoots rubber bands will appeal to both children and adults. It is positioned as a toy for boys and men, but you know, many ladies will not refuse such a gift either. Think about it and under no circumstances buy this gun for them - you will constantly be under fire. Although... it’s better to buy two pistols and start a real war. Moreover, the cost of ammunition is just a pittance. And the ammunition itself is reusable.

Characteristics

  • body material: wood;
  • shells: ordinary “rubber bands for money”;
  • size: 22.5*10.9*2.1 cm;
  • weight: 85 g;
  • age limit: for children from 5 years old.

Select a piece of wood that fits the body of the gun (barrel and butt). The wood should be soft enough that you can cut grooves into the barrel of the gun. Ordinary wood is the cheapest and available material, although bamboo or other materials can also be used for the body of the gun.

  • The length of the butt should be about 60 centimeters.
  • Suitable wood for the body can be cut from some fairly hard branch, strip or board.
  • Perfect also wooden handles for tools sold in hardware stores.

Assemble the remaining parts needed for the gun. In addition to the barrel and stock, you will need a trigger mechanism and something to attach it to the body of the gun. So you will need:

  • Clothespin (as a trigger)
  • Pencil
  • Glue (for wood, superglue, etc.)
  • Rubber
  • Attach a clothespin to the body - this will be the trigger mechanism. The best place for the clothespin is determined by the type of gun you want to make. To make the gun more powerful, you should attach the clothespin closer to the rear edge of the body. For a regular shotgun, attach a clothespin ⅔ from the front edge of the barrel. Do it like this:

    • Mark the future location of the clothespin with a pencil or knife.
    • Glue the clothespin to the body using wood glue, superglue, or hot glue.
    • Wait until the glue is completely dry.
    • Note: The farther from the front edge of the barrel you place the clothespin, the tighter the elastic will be. If you stick the clothespin too far, it may not be able to hold the elastic and it will slip out of it.
  • Make a cut on the front of the trunk. Using a knife or other cutting tool(such as a small wood carving saw), cut a groove at the front end of the barrel. This is the groove you will insert the elastic into.

  • Load your gun. Take the rubber ring and insert one end into the groove you cut in the front of the barrel. After this, pull the free end of the elastic back all the way to the clothespin. Open the clothespin and:

    • Pull the elastic a little more until the end is behind the front teeth of the clothespin.
    • Snap the clothespin into place by holding the rubber band in it.
  • Check that the elastic is well stretched and securely fastened. Pull the rubber band back slightly with your fingers to make sure the cutout in the barrel is deep enough to prevent the rubber band from slipping out. Then check the clothespin to make sure it is held securely in place.

    • If the rubber easily slides out of the groove in the barrel, deepen it a little.
    • If the clothespin moves under the action of a stretched elastic band, secure it more securely with glue or tape.