Household compressors for painting are available in large quantities in networks retail. Although it is worth saying that their price is quite high and depends on the manufacturer and its power.
Today we will tell you how to make a compressor for painting at home with your own hands. In this case, its price will not be significant, and instructions will also be provided in which you can look at photos and videos and do everything quickly and correctly.
We make it at home
First you need to make the right choice of compressor for painting. This will depend on the amount of work being done. If you use it in commercial purposes and make money from it, then it’s worth making it more powerful.
Attention: The higher the power of the compressor, the higher its price. But if you are painting cars or other non large structures, then it’s worth stopping at the middle power range.
What is needed and how it works
We will assemble an air compressor for painting, using a regular camera from vehicle/auto.
For assembly homemade compressor we will need:
- Vehicle/auto camera. It will play the role of a receiver in our unit.
- A pump, it is better to use it with a device - a pressure gauge. His role will be to pump things up.
- Repair kit.
- Awl for comfortable work.
Now after preparing all the parts, we can start assembling the station:
- The first step is to check whether the chamber allows air to pass through, whether there are any holes or pores in it. We pump it up. If during the process we discovered depressurization of our facility, then we can stick patches on the right places, or treat the raw condition with rubber.
- The next step is to make a hole in the receiver. For these manipulations we will need an awl. Next, we put the nipple from the camera there, it will act as an outlet for the air stream when our device is operating.
- We attach and glue the optional fitting. It was precisely for this purpose that we initially prepared our repair complex. Then we attach the fitting itself. To make sure that the air leaves the container normally, you just need to unscrew the nipple.
- However, we will not touch the nipple itself installed on the chamber; its role will be to perform the function of a valve, as well as maintain the required level of pressure flow. To know the pressure volume, we have to spray the paint material onto the surface. If the enamel is applied to the metal in even layers, then our work is done correctly and at a high level.
- A pressure gauge can also help us determine the pressure level. Even after turning on the airbrush, the pressure should also be uniform.
The process of assembling a homemade compressor for painting is relatively simple and does not require special knowledge and skills, but its comfort and convenience begins to be felt immediately. It is much easier to carry out paint work using an airbrush than using a balloon.
Attention: K latest advice You can add that you need to carefully ensure that no streams of dust or liquid enter the vehicle chamber.
If these elements still make their way there, you will have to prepare the paint for the job again. At proper operation The compressor will serve for a long period of time, however, if possible and desired, the air should be pumped in automatic mode, it is much more convenient and simpler.
We assemble the compressor with our own hands at a semi-professional level
It is possible to assemble such a unit, which in its properties will in no way be inferior to special compressors from leading developers. We will take a regular refrigerator as a basis.
To complete the work, you will need a number of spare parts and units, namely: a receiver, a filter, various adapters, oil, switches and other parts, which we will get acquainted with later. Let's consider the operating principle of this unit.
- To make the process much simpler, the engine of our unit will be a compressor from a conventional refrigerator, which was produced in the Soviet Union. An undoubted advantage is the presence of an injection unit relay. Domestic refrigerators have a higher pressure level than their foreign counterparts, which is important advantage. After the block has been removed, it must be prepared for use; the corrosion layer must be cleaned.
- For such work we use a corrosion converter so that oxidation reactions stop taking place. This is how we produced preparatory work motor.
Having done everything necessary preparatory activities, we can start changing the oil. After all, if you don’t lie too much, then there’s almost no refrigeration unit behind long years continuous operation has never undergone an oil change. This solution justifies itself, since during these works our mechanism is fully protected from external air.
- To change the oil, we use semi-synthetic material. Its properties are no different from compressor oil and contains the additives we need.
- The second step is to find three tubes on our compressor, two of them will be located in open state, the second is sealed. In the operation of our installation, the first two tubes will serve to pump air in different directions (it will enter and exit). To determine the movement of air masses, we need to turn on our injection unit into the network. Next, we carefully look at where the air is sucked in, and at what point it leaves our unit.
- The tube, which is sealed, will act as an oil changer. From here we have to get rid of the closed part of it. For such work, we can take a regular needle file and make a cut around the circumference of the tube. Please ensure that pieces of chips and metal dust do not end up inside the injection unit.
- Next, we break off the back part of the tube and drain the oil into a special container. This is done in order to determine the subsequent volume of the next pour. Using a syringe, we inject a small amount of new semi-synthetic oil.
- When new oil is introduced, it is important to turn off the entire engine lubrication mechanism. We must pick up the screw, having previously wrapped it with tape, and screw it into a tube. It must be remembered that there will sometimes be some leakage from the back of this tube. a large number of semi-synthetic oil. To avoid this, we need a special oil separator for work.
- Once we have successfully completed the previous assembly steps, we can proceed to the next steps in creating our blower setup. The work begins with mounting the engine with the relay on a wooden bed. This must be done in such a way that it is like on the frame.
- Such measures must be carried out, since the injection unit relay is very sensitive to its position in space. Actions must be precise, since correct settings the correct functioning of the compressor operating modes will depend in the future.
Air capacity
Where can I get the air container? For such purposes, we need a canister that is used in fire extinguishers. All this depends on the fact that they have high strength to the pressure exerted on them; they are ideal as a canopy.
So:
- As a basis, we take a fire extinguisher under the brand name OU-10. It has a ten-liter air volume and high level strength to the tested pressure. We unscrew the locking mechanism, then install the transition device.
- If you come across traces of rust, you need to get rid of it promptly. using a corrosion converter. We place the above liquid inside the can and begin to shake it.
- After the rust has been removed and there are almost no traces left, we attach the crosspiece. During this work, we created two important spare parts for the future injection unit.
We carry out the assembly
To ensure that the parts do not interfere with each other, they must be immediately installed on the base. To make it, we take a board; the engine of the future injection unit and parts of the fire extinguisher will be attached there.
- We use special threaded pins to install the engine on a wooden base. We insert the pins into the pre-made holes. Nuts will come in handy more than ever. You also need to drill a hole to mount the fire extinguisher. Other sheets are attached using self-tapping screws to our wooden base.
- We place the receiver on a vertical level; we will need three sheets of plywood for such purposes. Makes a hole in one plywood for attaching a spray can. We attach other sheets with self-tapping screws. We glue them to the receiver sheet.
- In advance, we hollow out a hole in the wood base for the receiver and its bottom part. In the end, so that the installation can move, we will assemble ordinary wheels from ordinary furniture, which are attached to the base.
- Once we have completed the above collection work, we need to ensure protective functions our installation from dust flow. For these purposes, you will need a gasoline filter, which usually plays the role of coarse filtration. Its task is to become an air intake in our blower installation.
- Next we take the rubber hose and compressor tube. At the compressor inlet low level, it is important to remember this, i.e. We will not need to increase the contacting properties with the help of clamps.
- Those. We have already made an inlet filtration system for our compressor. At the outlet of the installation we attach an oil separator, which will protect the device from the penetration of parts of the dust flow. We will also need a power filtration mechanism. Since the pressure level at the output of the system is high, here we will need vehicle clamps.
- Now we have smoothly approached the oil separator filter. We put it into operation by connecting it to the input part of the gearbox. The gearbox serves for decoupling and the output part of the compressor, i.e. We screw the cross into the outlet part on the left, and on the right side we attach a pressure gauge (this is how we will monitor the pressure level). We attach a control relay to the top of the cross.
- The control relay allows you to adjust the level of discharge pressure height, as well as, if necessary, turn off the power supply to the compressor.
- With the help of these spare parts, we will turn on our injection unit if the pressure level is low and, on the contrary, turn it off if the parameters rise sharply.
- To adjust the level of recommended compressor pressure, you need to use relay springs, there are two of them. The spring, the largest size, serves to create pressure at a low level, the small spring for maximum pressure, and it also serves to adjust the shutdown of the installation.
- PM5 were originally assembled for water supply; they are simple switches of two contacts. One contact in our version is designed to work in a network where the voltage is at a level of two hundred and twenty volts, while the other contact works to communicate with the injection unit.
- We provide power through a toggle switch to connect to the second input with the injection unit. If our circuit already has a toggle switch, we have the right to quickly turn off the system.
It goes without saying that all contacts must be properly sealed and insulated. Now we can paint our compressor with peace of mind and start trying to paint with it.
We monitor the system pressure
Now that our installation is ready, it's time to check how it works or run some tests. We connect an airbrush or spray gun. Without touching the toggle switch itself, we connect our system to electrical energy.
- We set the relay to the lowest possible pressure level and connect the injection unit to electricity. We look at the indicators and characteristics on the pressure gauge, monitor the level of supplied pressure. After we have found out that the relay turns off the compressor engine, we look at the contacts and their sealing properties.
- To determine the tightness, use a regular soap solution. If the entire installation has successfully passed all tests, then we must necessarily remove air below the level to start the entire blower mechanism. If the pressure level reaches the required limits, the relay starts the compressor system itself. If everything works as expected, we can begin the colorful work.
- To paint metal surfaces and foundations, initially there is no need to prepare the very foundation for the work. All we need to do is set the required pressure level on our injection unit.
- Such tests give us a chance to measure the necessary technical characteristics that will allow layers of paint to be applied evenly. It is also necessary to remember that such painting work was carried out with a minimum of operation of the injection unit.
Instead of output
After completing all the above work and putting our injection unit into operation, we can sum up the first results. Thus, the process of assembling the compressor itself does not constitute special labor For all vehicle owners, special knowledge and skills are not needed here.
- It would be foolish not to say that the second type of compressor is much more complicated in terms of its assembly and the availability of the necessary spare parts and materials. However, due to the pressure in automatic mode and the special starting system of the entire injection unit, such a compressor is the most convenient and pleasant to use.
- Also, you will not need to monitor the receiver. This installation can also be used for painting indoor gates or other surfaces.
Attention: It’s not difficult to make a compressor for painting yourself, it’s also important to make it regular maintenance. Especially often they fail due to failure to change the oil. Therefore, monitor its quality first.
You now know how to choose a compressor for painting and can do everything yourself. Pay attention to the tightness of the joints and then the compressor will serve you for a long time.
Or a workshop.
For assembly we need:
1. Compressor from the refrigerator.
If you remove it from the refrigerator, cut off 30 centimeters copper tube We will need it later.
2. Receiver.
This is a durable container for compressed air. You can make it from an empty freon cylinder, which is used to refill air conditioners. The easiest way to find it is to contact any car service center that provides refueling services. car air conditioners. They throw away empty cylinders.
A red 50 liter propane cylinder is also suitable as a receiver. You can buy it on Avito for 500 rubles.
Next, we will need spare parts from a purchased compressor. You can find them in any large hardware store, in the power tools department.
3. Pressure switch.
4. Pressure regulator.
5. Rapid adapter.
6. Safety valve 10 bar.
7. Pressure gauge from 10 to 12 bar.
8. Moisture separator.
9. Four small wheels.
10. Small things. To make it easier to find parts, we go to any plumbing store and purchase everything from the list.
All parts will need to be connected according to the diagram.
For reliability and tightness of threaded connections, it is advisable to use a special adhesive sealant.
An important detail Our compressor is an air filter.
Very a good decision will use a classic gasoline filter.
We also buy a vacuum hose at the auto store.
The platform on which the compressor and receiver will be mounted will be made of plywood or chipboard.
We secure the receiver using steel tape.
Let's start assembling.
Drill three holes with a diameter of 10 mm in the receiver.
Sandpaper After cleaning the welding area, weld the nipple to the holes.
Let's attach the purchased wheels to the plywood.
We will fix the receiver onto the resulting trolley.
The compressor from the refrigerator is fixed with self-tapping screws.
We put our gasoline filter on the compressor inlet.
We will make the connection through a piece of vacuum hose.
We put a flexible hose on the suction end of the compressor.
The hose should be bitten off in place. The connection to the pipe is made using a worm clamp.
Now we assemble the automation unit.
Screw the pressure switch into the hole, safety valve, pressure gauge, pressure regulator.
We connect the rapid adapter to the pressure regulator.
The final step is to connect the plumbing elements.
And we attach a pre-assembled automation unit to them.
A piece of copper pipe. Its function is to relieve pressure.
After the compressor pumps air into the receiver, the pressure switch opens the valve through which the pressure in the discharge system is released.
This is done to make it easier to start the compressor, since it will not start under pressure.
We attach the tube at the very end. To do this, you need to expand one end of the tube as in the figure. This can be done using a steel ball and a hammer.
And connect the extended end to the pressure switch.
We connect the second end to the fitting through a vacuum hose.
Our compressor is ready, but in order for it to be enough for work performed in the garage, a connection option was provided additional receiver through the oxygen hose.
To do this, in addition to the above, you need to purchase:
Two 50 liter propane tanks.
15 meters of oxygen hose.
Quick-release adapter for hose for connecting pneumatic tools.
Tee for combining cylinders.
Two ball valves for 1/2, 3 fittings for 1/2, tee for 1/2, clamps worm type.
Putting everything together, you get a real, big compressor.
Like any mechanism, such a compressor has pros and cons.
Pros.
First, the assembly cost is 5,500 rubles. Approximately 2 times cheaper than a compressor of the same volume.
The second is the noise from operation, because it is no louder than a refrigerator.
Third, and perhaps most important, is reliability. Since the reliability of Soviet refrigerators is beyond doubt, which means they will last a very long time.
As for compressor automation, it all depends on your choice. After all, the price of the same pressure switch starts from 500 and ends at 3000 rubles.
4. High maintainability. After all, in the event of a breakdown, there will be no problems with spare parts.
Now about the cons.
Good afternoon In this article, using the example of my own compressor assembly, I want to show the method of building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.
Main elements
The first step is to register technical requirements to our fruit of goblin engineering.
Since I purchased a new dual action airbrush, I needed a compressor with a receiver. The fact is that, unlike a single action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, lock it, and open the air duct. In European countries, many people use such an airbrush together with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable; let’s leave the economic side of this aside. Air container - receiver- allows you to collect air like a cylinder. If air is continuously pumped into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may fail and the hose will fly out. Getting hit by a flying hose on any part of the body is extremely painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double-action airbrush involves the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.
The main thing is, in fact, yourself compressor. We will use a compressor from a refrigerator. Like a “pot” - because you can no longer find compressors of the “cylinder” type during the day, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of compressor using various sales sites refrigeration equipment. Probably the main criterion will be their price, since their air injection parameters are approximately equal. Some are stronger, some are weaker. Upon purchase, you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and only work on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the compressor model and write down the name of the company that produces it, using ctrl+c, or on a piece of paper. And we go to the manufacturer’s website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I found is Danfoss, on their website you can download a pdf file from technical description compressor. Be sure to download it, we will need it!
Let's return to the receiver. The receiver should be a container designed to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meets the requirements of GOST. Let me make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and canisters do NOT belong to such things. Their use is a blatant violation of safety regulations! Let's consider the containers:
Option one - carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide selection of capacities - 3,5,10 l. - it’s easy enough to get (you can buy it, you can get it “exhausted”). However, it has one significant drawback - a metric thread at the inlet. That's what I used. 
Option two- hydraulic accumulator. Decent choice of capacity, but has a small operating pressure. The inlet has a convenient 1 inch thread. It requires fine-tuning before use, since the inside is divided into a membrane containing carbon dioxide, which holds water under pressure. She needs to be pulled out. To get it, simply buy it at a construction hypermarket or construction market. 
Option three- oxygen balloon. Some samples may hold great amount atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity or heavy, massive ones are available for welding work, and it’s extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get some medical equipment (I’m afraid it’s very expensive), you can set up an oxygen bar before assembly!!! =))) 
Option four- cylinders for various gases (propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, it is written on them that use for compressed air is not recommended. 
Connecting links between the gearbox and the receiver, air preparation unit
Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver have been determined, it is necessary to think about how they will be connected, and how the compressed air will flow to the airbrush.
The first is the unit that is attached directly to the receiver and ensures air distribution between the lines (it is necessary to mention that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver; I will mention screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor turns off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turns it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch - best option- relay RDM-5 for water supply systems. It is very easy to find and is sold in most plumbing supply stores. Please note that the RDM-5 connecting element is designed for 1-inch external thread. 
Third, an indication of the pressure in the receiver is necessary. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have connection size 1. Important - you need a static device. 
Fourth is the air preparation unit. A certain pressure must be applied to the hose leading to the airbrush. Therefore, a gearbox is needed. The reducer must have a pressure control limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. It is also necessary that a pressure gauge be attached to it in order to see the value of the regulated pressure, as well as an oil separator filter. Because even from the receiver, particles of compressor oil can fly. Attention - do not buy a lubricator filter under any circumstances - it performs a diametrically opposite function.
Fifth - Consumables, fittings, turns, tees. The main size of fittings is 1 inch; in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inches, external and internal.
Having looked at all the parts and components, we’ll make a drawing of how it will all look assembled, for example, like this: 
Now let's think about the placement of the entire structure. As an option - ordinary chipboards. In order to avoid dragging the entire structure around the apartment and workshop, we will provide roller legs that are easy to find in any furniture store. To avoid the installation taking up a lot of space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, let’s draw the following diagram: 
You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. As well as nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, let's write a list of required materials.
- Compressor - 1 pc.
- Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
- Pressure switch - 1 pc.
- Pressure gauge - 1 pc.
- Filter reducer - 1 piece.
- Emergency valve - 1 piece.
- Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
- Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
- Cables, switch, plug + various small items for laying and connecting them.
- A flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant), with a diameter that matches the outer diameter of the air outlet fitting of the compressor.
- Chipboard board for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.
Let's start assembling!
Compressor assembly
So, the shopping run is over, the diagram has been drawn, let's start the show =). The first difficulty I encountered was the assembly at the fire extinguisher outlet. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly and find a welder to weld the required adapter fitting. Due to my haste, I didn’t want to look for someone, so I did a simple thing - I unscrewed part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element). An adapter with internal thread by 1 inch, into the other with a creaking screw the adapter from 1 to 38 was screwed in. Hand on heart, this (and, in fact, like the entire receiver) was made in violation of the rules for the operation of pressure vessels. It’s better to weld the new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not entirely according to the rules...).
The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a plumbing adjustable wrench, fum tape, sealant (attention, it subsequently hardens - if you want to make it for centuries - do not regret it!), and twist the adapters according to the plan outlined in advance. An important note - in order to ensure a tight connection, it is not necessary to tighten everything “to the point of creaking” - according to the law of meanness - the tees and turns will never be at the desired angle. We install a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, and an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must certainly be accompanied by fitting to the fire extinguisher receiver.
Carpenter versus joiner
“The viper with wheels is here!”
KF "Kin-dza-dza"
The second stage of assembly is carpentry. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stock” and screwed furniture wheels onto them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled the seats for them with a thin drill (this way they are screwed exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you need to check it out! =)) - you will be guaranteed the attention and interested reaction of your family (from the category of bad advice, it would be worth leaving a note “never repeat this yourself”). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. I screwed the nuts approximately to the middle of each stud, measured out the perforated tape with a reserve (so that it would be a “bed” for the fire extinguisher) and hoisted the latter to the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all bitten off areas of the punched paper tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or treat it so that there are no sharp edges or burrs left. 
After positioning the fire extinguisher, I placed two more perforated tapes on top and secured them with nuts.
If you use a prepared hydraulic accumulator as a receiver, then most small (5, 6, 8 liters) “horizontal” type models have wonderful claw brackets at the bottom and top. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and a compressor can be placed on the upper ones. 
In my case, which I use as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The “second floor” of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the legs of the compressor (there are many of them), and, maintaining the geometry, mark and drill them on the “second floor”. It’s okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever needed I used wide washers. We mount the “second floor” plate, looking at the diagram that we talked about in the first part.
We install the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I used ordinary plumbing silicone gaskets as them, making a kind of shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put washers. 
We try on the air distribution module to the receiver. If something sticks out, or is simply poorly positioned, the design can be changed. After fitting, we screw it on. Using a flexible hose, fum tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a tight fit of the hose - otherwise oil may leak and splash on the compressor side, and air may leak from the air distribution module side. 
I sing the electric body. The finishing touches and...
“Mahmoud, set it on fire!”
KF "White Sun of the Desert"
First, a little theory about the motor used by the compressor. The compressor we are considering as an example uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, to run it, you need different auxiliary devices. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Carefully read the instructions for the compressor! The types of devices that provide drive starting can vary greatly between different models.
Now the most important thing is that you need to work with the installation’s connection diagram. There are several pitfalls here:
- The compressor is taken out of the usual connection diagram. For it to work, you need to install a jumper.
- It is advisable to provide protective elements (circuit breaker) - the issue is controversial; in principle, in case of any excesses, the circuit breaker should operate on the group of sockets to which the compressor is connected - installing another circuit breaker, in my opinion, is not necessary.
- The connection line must go through the relay and switch.
- Sometimes, it is necessary to connect a capacitor to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.
The connection must be made according to the following scheme:
From the plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains intact, if there is a ground wire, but if there is no ground wire, we connect the neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay (a protective ground is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the compressor drive starting device (the box is like this it on the body), and according to the diagram we connect it to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:
General view of the connection diagram. Connection diagram for relay RDM-5. Please note - we use terminal L1 to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, under no circumstances connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.
From a regular plug (2.5 mm2 cable), through the switch, to the pressure switch (it is marked there where to connect what) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with ground, phase and neutral, if your house is new, or simply with phase and neutral, if the house is old. In principle, you can stop worrying and connect the ground to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now for the system to work, we’ll install a jumper. It is installed directly on the terminal block starting device. It is best to connect by soldering, but you can use crimp contacts of a suitable type (they are indicated in the description of the compressor). The jumper is shown in blue:
Jumper connection diagram in the starter.
This jumper is very important, as it ensures the connection of the windings to the phase.
Finally, carefully arrange the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Carefully inspect the cables for insulation integrity, and also check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully for possible short circuits - each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.
Now we check everything, launch it, and start painting the models! =)
In contact with
I have been dreaming of buying a compressor for two years now. Very useful device for a wide variety of work in the garage: inflating wheels, painting with a gun, blowing out engine parts, and so on. On average, a simple compressor costs 10 thousand rubles, a homemade one cost 300 rubles, plus a bunch of rubbish that was lying around the house. An old compressor from a refrigerator, gas cylinder, pressure gauge 10 BAR, angles and tees made of brass, plugs for them, nipples with threads from metal moped inner tubes, clamps, washers.
For production I used a compressor from a cylindrical refrigerator installed horizontally. It has a capacity of 10 l/min, this is very little compared to industrial ones, but I don’t need anymore, say, for 5-10 seconds to bleed air at a low pressure of 3 Bar, when in the receiver (I’ll tell you about it later) the pressure is 8-9 Bar.
For the receiver, I take a 50L gas cylinder. I drained all the gasoline from it ahead of time. I tried to unscrew the tap, but no matter what methods I used, the tap would not budge.
Since the cylinder tap has a left-hand thread, I decided to make a 3/4-inch adapter with a right-hand thread. Took the hose high pressure and two adapters from 3\4 to 10mm with left and right threads. The result is such an adapter
I assembled a simple splitter from tees and angles and made a test switch.
In 45 minutes the cylinder gained a pressure of almost 9 bar, with a receiver volume of 50L this is approximately 430L of air
I filled it a couple of times, and then lowered the cylinder upside down to remove the remaining gas and gasoline, and then began a thorough assembly. The position of the cylinder is horizontal, I welded the compressor mount on top and installed all the wiring with a pressure gauge. I secured the circuit with clips mounted on nails welded to the cylinder. The compressor was connected to the circuit with a hose, secured with clamps
I drilled a hole in the plug, inserted a nipple into it and put a rubber gasket on top. The plug was clamped onto the tap, and there were two tees in a row to the tap: one outlet to the receiver, the other to the pressure gauge. Next I screwed on a corner, a coarse filter to the corner, a coupling to the filter and the same plug as on the other side.
A filter had to be installed so that the oil that is squeezed out by the compressor would settle and not get into the receiver and pipes.
All that's left to do is weld the legs and paint everything the same color. There was one leg at the front, two at the back. All legs are remains of a corner
I haven’t set the machine to turn off until I don’t have the money to buy it. For the same reason, I did not install a pressure regulator. As soon as I have the money, I’ll finish it, but for now it’s enough as it is.
Similar video from YouToBe
I won't paint it, I'm too lazy.
With uv. Admin check
Using available materials and a standard set of household tools, any householder can assemble a homemade air compressor from a refrigerator. The scope of application of such a device is quite wide and justifies the expenditure of effort and money on its manufacture:
- Air compressor for airbrushing and painting.
- Electric pump for inflating car tires.
- Power source for pneumatic tools.
- Air pump for purging complex mechanisms during their repair.
Homemade air compressor from a refrigerator
The range of capabilities, power, durability and reliability of a homemade compressed air generation system, assembled on the basis of a compressor from an old refrigerator, depends on correct design and installation of its elements.
Compressor selection problem
Compressor from an old refrigerator
Assembly of functional and reliable device begins with the selection of its main part - the compressor. It is found in any household refrigerator, performs the function of a pump for pumping refrigerant and is a single unit in a sealed metal shell, on the outside of which a relay is attached to start it. Any similar motor in good condition will be suitable for solving the problem. Further selection and configuration of all additional elements design is determined by the shape and characteristics of a particular device.
Compressor search
If you don’t have an old and unnecessary refrigerator at hand, then there is always the opportunity to purchase a dismantled unit on the used tools and spare parts market. There you can buy a workable option for 100-150 rubles.
Do-it-yourself dismantling of the compressor from the refrigerator
Do-it-yourself dismantling of the compressor from the refrigerator
You can remove the device from the refrigerator using ordinary wrenches and screwdrivers. It is better to cut the air supply and outlet tubes rather than saw them off, so as not to clog the mechanics of the device. The standard start relay is also removed.
Features of refrigerators and their compressors
The capabilities and characteristics of the compressor selected as the basis for the future compressed air supply mechanism should be taken into account. The following options exist:
- The simplest solution is motors operating in a linear circuit.
- Motors operating using an inverter circuit.
Both options are suitable for work, but their features should be taken into account. Linear devices are designed for constant operating speed. Therefore, they are better suited for creating a compressor apparatus. Converter options are designed for variable speed, which should decrease depending on the signal from the temperature sensor.
Functionality check
Checking the functionality of the compressor from the refrigerator
In order to check the functionality of the unit, you should first ring it using an electronic resistance meter and then connect it to the network:
- Each input contact is checked. Usually there are 3 of them on the block, configured for a standard relay connector.
- The contact with maximum resistance refers to the motor starting mechanism (approximately 20-40 ohms)
- A contact with a resistance of 10-15 Ohms refers to the winding that provides the operating mode (the wire on its winding is thicker).
- The third contact is phase.
To test the connection, voltage is applied to the working and phase contacts, after which the working and starting contacts are briefly closed. The device should create a stable sound timbre when turned on, and an air flow should come from the output tube.
Development of a compressor station diagram
Preparing equipment for a homemade compressor station
When developing a diagram of a compressor station and compiling a list of additional equipment for it, the planned scope of application should be taken into account. The larger the receiver and the pressure in it, the wider the homemade possibilities will be. Standard scheme includes the following parts and mechanisms:
- Electronic pressure sensor. It turns off the engine when the specified pressure parameters in the receiver are reached.
- Pressure gauge for measuring the degree of air compression.
- Safety valve.
- Air dryer at the outlet of the receiver.
- Air filter for installation on the inlet pipe of the compressor unit.
- Filter for removing oil from the air stream under pressure.
- Switch button.
- Wires, high pressure hoses and fittings with the required configuration.
- High pressure cylinder for receiver.
- A ball valve that shuts off the air supply to the consumer at the outlet of the system.
Methods for purchasing equipment
An old refrigerator compressor can be purchased inexpensively on the used tool market.
Most of the parts for the compressor station are easiest to buy at a plumbing store. There are specialized websites where all parts, without exception, can be ordered in a few clicks. Much cheaper necessary equipment can be purchased on the used instrument market. It is acceptable to use cheap fuel filters, but using a regular fitting and a metal dishwashing sponge, you can quickly make a more reliable filter for coarsely cleaning the air from oil, which is installed on the output tube of the engine block.
Receiver problem
Homemade welded receiver
Cylinders for homemade compressor equipment cannot be found on sale. For this purpose, cylinders of various purposes and capacities are converted into receivers:
- Propane and methane cylinders.
- Fire extinguishers.
- Compressed air storage cylinders, carbon dioxide, oxygen and others.
- Homemade welded structures.
Attention: When using homemade buildings under the receiver, it is necessary to take into account the degree of risk and explosion hazard of such a device.
The simplest option is steel pipe medium diameter with sealed plugs. The receiver body must contain at least 3 throughput units:
- Inlet for compressed air from the compressor.
- Outlet.
- The condensate drain unit from the cylinder, which should be located at the lowest point.
When using steel cylinders, the inlet and outlet tubes are welded together. The housing must withstand more than 10 atmospheres.
Preparing and connecting the compressor from the refrigerator for use in a compressor installation
When connecting the compressor unit, you can leave the same circuit as was originally provided - through the start relay. You can connect the wires of a pressure sensor to this relay, which will interrupt the circuit after the calculated pressure parameters are reached in the receiver. Additional conveniences include equipping the entire system with a push-button switch and an LED operation indicator. Before connecting, you can change the oil in the block. Old oil is designed to work with freon. Special compressor oil for operation in air environment will protect the electric motor from overheating and premature failure.
Installing the air filter on the air intake
Installing a fuel filter on the compressor inlet pipe from the refrigerator to clean the air flow
To fit onto the inlet tube of the air filter, the most simple option which is a plastic fuel filter, you can use either a soft rubber hose or a metal elbow fitting with a threaded connection. The easiest way to tighten a connecting soft tube stretched over the plastic tip of the filter and the copper inlet is to use a metal clamp.
Installation of oil purification device
The air stream coming from the block contains a significant amount of oil, which can be filtered out using a homemade cut-off device. A drainage hole with a tap should be provided in its body through which it can be cleaned. It is possible to install a cooling coil made of a metal tube between the oil cutter and the compressor unit.
Main line with measuring and control equipment
Preparation for assembling the pipeline with control and measuring equipment for the compressor station
All controls and measuring instruments The easiest way is to place it on one highway. To do this, you will need regular metal tees from a plumbing store. On a single platform there is a sensor for shutting off the system when operating pressure is reached, a pressure gauge, a device for cleaning air from condensate accumulating in the receiver and a safety valve with which you can quickly release excess air from the cylinder. At the outlet of the main line, a control ball valve can be placed. The main unit is connected to the storage cylinder either through its standard inlet, or using a homemade inlet on its body.
Instrumentation connection problem
If the diameters of the installation instrumentation do not correspond to the dimensions of the available fitting, then in this case all instruments can be mounted using plugs in which holes of the required size are drilled and threads are cut with the appropriate pitch. Threaded connections compacted using fum tape.
Problem with high pressure rubber tubes
Oxygen hoses with thick walls are one of the most affordable materials for connecting all parts of the compressor apparatus. But it should be borne in mind that the stream of air leaving the engine compartment will contain a large amount of oil, which destroys the rubber. For this reason, it is preferable to use metal (copper or steel) tubes.
Servicing a compressor from a DIY refrigerator
Maintenance of a homemade compressor station should be carried out taking into account the features of its configuration. The functionality and tightness of all components should be periodically checked. Violation of the tightness of locking devices is easy to identify if a pressure measuring device is installed, which will immediately show its rapid loss. The performance of the pressure sensor can be easily monitored using a pressure gauge, the readings of which can be recorded at the time of normal shutdown of the system after filling the air tank. You should also regularly drain condensate and oil from filters and cylinders.