To prevent the foundation of the house from collapsing due to the influence of moisture contained in the soil, it is imperative to make a drainage system. To save money, it is recommended to build drainage well for sewerage with your own hands or seek help from specialists.

What kind of drainage wells are there?

Drainage wells can be:

• rotary;
• examination rooms;
• collector;
• absorbent.

Features of rotary wells

As a rule, during the operation of the sewer system, contaminants arise, which often accumulate in perforated pipes. To clean them, you will need to install rotary wells. They are installed at pipe bends, with passage through one. This provides access to the inlet and outlet sections of the pipe.

Installation of a concrete drainage well

The size of such a structure will depend on whether human access to the well is required for the purpose of carrying out repairs. Thus, the approximate diameter of the well should be about one meter, only it will already be considered an inspection well.

Inspection type of wells

Drainage inspection structures are made to monitor the operation of the sewer system. This design is different large sizes shaft, that is, it must be of sufficient size for easy access by a person who will monitor the condition of the sewer. If necessary, repair and maintenance work will be carried out.

installation of a plastic drainage well

A structure of this type is designed to perform several actions at once; it can also be rotary, since it is also installed at the convergence of several pipes or at their turning point.

Absorption type of wells

These structures can also be called filtering structures, since they are most often installed in areas where there is a need to drain it, and there is no possibility of discharging currents into the general sewer system. In such cases, the depth of the wells will be approximately two meters.

To construct such a design, you must follow a certain technology:

• first, a hole of the required size is dug;
• a layer of crushed stone is placed on its bottom and a container is placed inside, it can be a pipe with a diameter of 50 cm;
• when this pipe is installed, broken brick, crushed stone, slag or small-sized gravel are poured into it;
• gravel is sprinkled around this filled structure;
• thus, a good and high-quality drainage tank is obtained. It should be covered with geotextile material on top and a layer of earth should be laid. As a result of these actions, a structure is obtained with the help of which the natural drainage of wastewater into the ground is carried out.

working principle of an absorption drainage well

Collector wells

Such structures can also be called water intake structures, since this is the last compartment of a closed drainage system. In this well, water is collected and accumulated, which will later be pumped into a pre-prepared recess, ditch or artificial reservoir.

installation and selection of a collector well

Typically, such containers are constructed from ready-made sealed plastic wells, which are equipped with a waterproof bottom.

What materials may be required to construct a drainage structure?

Like pipes, drainage wells may differ in material and size. Most often, plastic or concrete is used to produce such structures:

• To implement the second option, concrete rings are used, the height and diameter of which can be different. The structure is installed in a pre-prepared hole, and the rings are carefully lowered using special equipment. In this case, the main advantage will be the strength and durability of the structure, while the disadvantage is labor intensity installation work;
• now plastic analogues are successfully replacing concrete wells, since they are easier and faster to install. Also, the advantages include low cost, low weight and the presence of all required outlets. Plastic drainage wells are not subject to corrosion damage and can successfully serve for at least 50 years. For high-quality and reliable pipe supply, rubber seals are used, which maintain tightness for decades. Since the use of a corrugated pipe is envisaged, the device will be securely fixed in the ground due to its stiffeners.

How to build a drainage tank?

Drainage structures in finished form for the construction of a well, they are easy to install, reliable and of good quality. The main disadvantage of ready-made wells is their high cost, in particular this applies to products with a diameter of 800-1000 mm. In order to economize cash, you can build such a structure yourself.

construction of a drainage reservoir

To make a drainage structure, you need to acquire corrugated pipes of the appropriate diameter:

• for construction inspection wells a pipe diameter of 340 mm or 460 mm is suitable, this is quite enough to ensure manual cleaning of the sewer system using water pressure from a hose;
• to make a storage or filter tank, you will need pipes with a diameter of 575 or 695 mm;
• if there is a need to periodically penetrate the well to carry out repairs and preventative work, then you need to buy pipes with a diameter of 925 mm.

In addition to plastic corrugated pipes, you also need to buy rubber seals of a suitable diameter, a hatch and plastic for the bottom.

To save money, you can buy components separately.

During the assembly and installation of the storage structure, a certain sequence should be followed:

• holes are cut in the well for connecting pipes and installing rubber seals;
• The bottom of the well is installed. Experts recommend treating the bottom of the structure bitumen mastic, this will protect the bottom of the well from leaks;
• using crushed stone and sand, you need to make a base in a drainage ditch, after which it is filled with cement;
• The finished structure is installed on the prepared bottom. To prevent the risk of leakage of the structure, it is recommended to coat the connection points drainage pipes bitumen mastic;
• the tank is filled with crushed stone and sand, after which the base for the hatch is compacted and laid. The hatch is placed in a pre-prepared cement frame.

The presence of a hatch is prerequisite, as this is necessary to clean the drainage system. The service life of a structure directly depends on correct production and well installation.

Step-by-step construction of a well

When all the materials have already been purchased and prepared, you can begin installation work:

• First, the pipe must be cut to length, taking into account the depth of the drainage well.
• It is necessary to cut holes for connecting pipes, retreating 50 cm from the bottom edge of the pipe. Rubber cuffs are inserted into these holes.
• The bottom of the well is fixed, and the joint must be treated with a bitumen-based sealing compound.
• To install a well, you need to prepare a pit in advance, and pour cement mortar into the bottom.
• The structure can be installed only after the cement has completely hardened, after which drainage pipes are connected to it.
• The space formed between the walls of the pit and the structure must be filled with sand and gravel.
• Top on installed tank a hatch is installed.

Features of installation of plastic wells

As a rule, ready plastic structures They are not cheap, so you won’t be able to save much. The only thing you can do is buy individual elements required size and diameter yourself. So, you need to prepare:

• corrugated pipe of the appropriate diameter;
• plastic for bottom construction;
• rubber seals. To install a storage or filtration well, you will need a pipe with a diameter of 695 or 575 mm.

When installing a drainage well with your own hands, it is important to adhere to a certain algorithm:

• the corrugated pipe must be cut, taking into account the depth of the well. Next, you need to make holes in it for connecting perforated pipes, which are connected using rubber seals;
• A ditch is dug, at the bottom of which a layer of crushed stone and sand is laid. After this, the structure is poured cement mortar and covered with geotextile material;
• at the next stage, the bottom is installed, which is connected to the pipe, and the joining place must be treated with bitumen mastic;
• Now you can connect drainage pipes to the structure, and the joints should also be coated with a sealing compound;
• It is imperative to install a pump that will pump out the collected water;
• the resulting voids around the well must be filled with fine-grained crushed stone;
• At the last stage of work, the roof is installed.

Let's sum it up

A necessary part of the drainage system is the drainage tank. It is installed in order to monitor the operation of the entire system, and it is also necessary to carry out repair and preventative measures.

To simplify the process of installing the structure, you can buy a finished product, which will not be cheap, but if this is not possible, you can build it yourself. For this, plastic pipes or concrete rings of the required diameter are used.

In fact, building a drainage structure is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. It is enough to purchase necessary set details and adhere to a certain algorithm of actions.

Wells for sewerage are a necessary thing in every urban area. Without sewerage there would simply be nowhere to discharge wastewater. Today, the construction of sewer wells has been worked out to the smallest detail and is enshrined in SNiP. This document contains standards for arranging a container for water accumulation and carrying out installation work. The places where sewage pits can be placed are also documented. Regardless of where the structure is located, its arrangement must be carried out in accordance with established rules.

What does sewerage consist of?

The installation of a sewer well is a pressing issue when carrying out construction work or arrangement of a sewer system in a certain area of ​​the area. The structure of a sewer well requires the following parts:

1. Bottom of the container - Bottom part the entire device in direct contact with wastewater.
2. The shaft is a part of a structure almost two meters long, an internal cavity in which, as a rule, repair work is carried out.
3. The working chamber is part of the system in which repair work related to pipes is carried out.
4. The neck is the upper, visible part of the container with a hole at the top intended for the lid.
5. The hatch is the closing part of the structure, the cover of the waste pit, which prevents foreign objects, animals or people from entering the container.

This design is general and in some cases may differ slightly. The well cannot be designed according to individual plan, it must comply with the standards established in SNiP.

Types of sewage tanks

Types of sewer wells include several types of structural design of the container for water drainage. Depending on the principle of construction of sewer wells, structures can be divided into several types.

Variable

Differential sewer wells are structures that are installed in places where there is a need to change the flow intensity Wastewater. Drop wells can be installed in certain situations:

• if there is a risk of change in flow rate;
• if the sewer crosses the highway;
• when laying another pipeline;
• Also drop well can be installed if there is partial flooding of the place where the water exits.

The operating principle of a sewer differential well is based on a special design that redirects wastewater flows.

Observation

Inspection tanks are structures that are designed for inspecting the sewer system, as well as for carrying out sewer or water supply repair work. This design has no analogues today. Installation of inspection-type sewer wells is provided in the following cases:

• in places where there is a change in pipe size, slope and diameter. Such places are the weakest and are often subject to various breakdowns;
• in an area where there is a change in wastewater flow;
• at the point where the pipeline branches into several small pipes;
• in areas that, in the opinion of specialists, require special monitoring.

Inspection structures are usually placed in such a way that the distance between sewer wells is at least 15 meters. If the pit is installed on the territory of a private house, then the distance from the structure to the house should be at least 3 meters, but not more than 12.

Rotary

A rotary sewer well is a structure that is installed directly at the turning point of the main sewer system. The distance between sewer wells in this case is determined only by the location of the pipeline turns.

Nodal

Junction structures are structures that are installed in places where wide pipelines branch.

Direct flow

Direct-flow tanks are structures that are mainly intended for flushing sewer pipelines. Such structures are installed in different places, depending on which several types of direct-flow structures are distinguished:

• linear - structures necessary for periodic inspections and flushing of networks;
• flushing facilities - structures that are installed, as a rule, at the very beginning of the water supply system for flushing it;
• control structures - structures that are placed in places where streams of water that have undergone purification are discharged. Such structures are necessary to monitor the quality of passing water.

In various places, sewerage must be installed with inclusion in the system waste tanks. It is with the help of these structures that the entire system is monitored, flushed and repaired. Even if sewerage is installed in a private house, at least one well must be on the site. Otherwise, the owner of the site simply will not be able to control the operation of the sewer system and, if necessary, repair it.

How to correctly calculate the size of a sewer pit?

How to make a sewer well? This question is especially relevant if the owner of a private house and plot decides to make a sewer well with his own hands. Of course, it is quite difficult to make a well without the participation of specialists, however, it is still possible. The main thing here is to follow all established rules in order to sewer system subsequently it functioned normally and did not cause problems.

Before you begin installing a sewer well, you need to determine its location and carry out everything necessary calculations. The first parameter that must be taken into account is the volume of the waste pit. This indicator is calculated depending on the number of people living in the area and the approximate water consumption. For example, a standard family with two children uses up to 1000 liters of water per day.

According to accepted standards, a drain with a bottom area of ​​one square meter can provide water output in the amount of one cubic meter. It is important to take into account the fact that the working volume of the structure must correspond to at least triple the rate of water flow per day. Therefore, the volume of a well for a family with two children should be at least three cubic meters.

Knowing exactly how much structure is needed in a particular area, you can calculate the required diameter of the well. The average depth of the pit is 2.5-3 meters. When calculating the parameters of a well, it is important to calculate the distance from the well, or rather its working part, to drain pipe. This is quite simple to do; you need to subtract the length of the drain pipe, which is 70 centimeters, from the depth of the structure. Next, the volume of the well is directly calculated, which consists of multiplied data on the depth of the hole and the area of ​​​​its bottom.

Types of arrangement of the bottom of a well

If you are making a sewer well with your own hands, you must also first select the type of pit bottom. The most common and popular option is a pit with a round bottom, since it is the easiest to use and maintain, however, in addition to this option, there are other types of well bottom.

The most commonly used varieties are structures with round and quadrangular bottoms. Last option can be made in the form of a square or rectangle. Before you build a sewer well with your own hands, you need to calculate the diameter and depth of the hole, taking into account the walls that will be laid to strengthen the structure.

Installation protective structures the inside of the pit can be made of the following materials:

• bricks;
• reinforced concrete rings;
• concrete pouring.

The distance to the bottom is calculated solely taking into account all design features and strengthening attitudes.

How to install a sewer well yourself?

The main argument in favor of building a sewer system on the site with your own hands is the significant cost savings. If a container made of brick, concrete rings or rubble stone was chosen as a structure, the following sequence of actions must be followed:

• first of all, a hole is dug for the storage tank, as well as a trench for the pipeline;
• then the base of the pit is prepared. As a rule, for these purposes, crushed stone or other similar material is poured into the bottom of the pit;
• after this, the bottom is filled with concrete mortar;
• Next, the walls of the structure are strengthened. To do this, concrete rings are installed, brickwork or stone masonry is made. In this case, all joints must be covered with cement mortar. In the case of installing a brick wall, the walls are also additionally plastered;
• then the inlet for the drain pipe is installed and equipped. After installation, all holes must be sealed;
• the outer walls are insulated using tar or fatty clay;
• then the soil is returned to its place and compacted;
• a floor slab and a hatch are installed on top of the well;
• The last thing to do is install ventilation pipe. This part of the structure is necessary in order to remove the gases accumulated inside, resulting from the decomposition of organic substances, to the outside. The accumulation of such gases is dangerous due to the possibility of explosion.

The owner, as a rule, chooses the distance between sewer wells on a private plot independently depending on the area of ​​the territory, the location of the sewerage system and the volume of wastewater. However, when carrying out independent work Still, do not forget about work standards.

If you are building new house or decided to improve the old one, one of the main tasks will be the installation of communications that provide comfortable accommodation. Since it is impossible without a properly designed drainage system, the question will arise - how to make a sewer well with your own hands.

If you want to save money and do not plan to involve a contractor in this work, then before starting it you should study all the rules and regulations for installing a sewer system for a private home. They are contained in SNiPs, which are quite difficult to understand for people not involved in the construction business, so we suggest that you simply read this article carefully.

Rules for constructing sewer wells

Before you start doing anything, you need to decide on its volume and depth. To do this, you will need to draw at least a primitive sewer diagram from the exit from the house to the well, which will also help you calculate required amount required materials.

Sanitary requirements

When choosing a location for a sewer septic tank or cesspool, you should first take into account the location of the water intake points. And not only on your own site, but also on neighboring ones.

If contaminated wastewater leaks into an aquifer and from there into a well, it can cause serious illnesses. The type of soil also matters - how permeable it is.

The instructions require the following distances between sewer and water wells:

• For sandy soils– at least 50 meters;
• When clayey– at least 20 meters.

Having determined the places on your site that meet these requirements, you can decide which of them is more convenient to locate the structure, taking into account the distance to the house and the position of the outlet point of the internal sewer system.

Technical requirements

The first thing you should know is that the structure cannot be placed closer than three meters from the foundation of the house.

The ideal distance is 8-12 meters in a straight line. But it is not always possible to withstand it: the layout and topography of the site may not allow this.

In such cases, when building a sewer well with your own hands, you must follow the following rules:

• If the length of the sewer pipeline is very long, it must be installed. The first one is at a distance from 3 to 12 meters from the exit from the house, the subsequent ones are every 15 meters. They are necessary to control the operation of the system and facilitate its cleaning if necessary.

• If the pipeline has turns or is connected into one common pipeline of two or more outlets, it is installed at such nodes. It is also used as an observation room.

• If the terrain does not allow laying a pipe with minimum slope, a differential well is being built to ensure the permissible speed of wastewater movement.

It is important! It should be explained why the speed at which sewage moving through pipes. If it is very small, a plug may form in the pipe, which will clog the lumen. If it is too large, the liquid will drain quickly, not having time to carry the solid fractions with it, which again will lead to the formation of congestion.

Water flows by gravity, which is ensured by the slope of the pipe. With a diameter of 100 mm it should be 2 cm for each linear meter, if the diameter is 50 mm, the slope is one and a half times greater - 3 cm per linear meter.

That is, the further the well is located from the outlet, the deeper it should be, since the entrance to it will be lower. By drawing a sewer diagram to scale with the correct pipeline slope, you will get this mark, after which you can calculate the depth and volume of the tank.

For reference. The volume is calculated based on the number of people living in the house, each of whom receives about 150 liters of waste per day, the type of well and the frequency of its emptying.

Types of drain wells

It can be cumulative or filtering. In any case, it is a working container with the neck closed by a hatch; the difference lies in the design of the bottom.

So:

• Cumulative is designed to collect sewage, which, as it fills, is pumped out by a sewer truck (sludge pump) and removed. It must be completely sealed.
• In the filter the liquid seeps into the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually purified, passing through its layers, so it is made without a bottom and installed on a filter layer of gravel, broken bricks or crushed stone. It has to be pumped out less often.

Attention! At high level groundwater, the installation of a filter well without preliminary wastewater treatment is unacceptable.

There is also a more advanced design of sewer wells - a septic tank, in which stepwise wastewater treatment occurs, but it must be designed and installed by specialists.

How to build a sewer well yourself

Many private developers decide to do the sewer installation themselves, since this is not the most difficult task, and the cost savings are decent.

Stages of work

Since the average depth is 4-6 meters, to reduce labor costs and save time, it is better to dig a foundation pit using an excavator. The diameter of the pit must be greater than the outer diameter of the well (or its linear dimensions with a rectangular or square shape) at least 30-40 cm.

If you decide to make a storage tank from reinforced concrete rings, rubble stone or brick, the sequence of work is as follows:

• Digging a trench for a pipeline and constructing a foundation pit;
• Preparing the base by filling the bottom with a layer of crushed stone and compacting it;
• Filling the bottom with concrete;

For reference. You can do it easier and lay a finished reinforced concrete slab on the bottom of the pit.

• or laying brick walls. The seams between the rings are sealed with cement mortar, and brick walls are also plastered with it;

• Inlet device for inserting the drain pipe. After its installation, the entry point is also carefully sealed;

Note. The inlet pipe should protrude 5-8 cm into the well.

• Insulation of external walls with tar or a layer of oily clay;
• Backfilling of soil with its compaction;
• Laying a floor slab with a hatch;

• Installation of a ventilation pipe to prevent the accumulation in the well of explosive gases released during the decomposition of organic matter. It should rise above ground level by at least 60-70 cm.

It is built in exactly the same way, with the only difference that the bottom is not completely poured under it, but only under the walls, so that they rest not on the ground, but on concrete base. In addition, drainage holes are made in the lower part of the first ring, and a backfill of crushed stone is made on the outside.
In the case of brick construction, holes are left immediately in the lower rows of the masonry.

Plastic wells

It is much easier to use ready-made containers made of durable and frost-resistant plastic. Perhaps the price of the products themselves will be higher than the cost of reinforced concrete rings, but you can save effort and time, as well as money, without calling a manipulator to install heavy and bulky structures in the pit.

Plastic wells are lightweight, and you can handle it yourself. They are produced in different volumes and diameters, with ready-made inlet holes for pipes, so you will not have any difficulties with their selection and installation.

In addition to low weight and ease of installation, plastic wells have the following advantages:

• Absolutely sealed, so you don't have to work insulation works and not worry about possible leaks;
• Resistant to both very low and high temperatures;
• Resistance to aggressive environments;
• High strength and, as a result, durability. They will not require any repairs throughout their entire service life.

Final work

The finished well is completely covered with earth to prevent freezing. Only the hatch remains open. There should always be free access to it, and there should be access roads for the suction pump nearby.

All that remains is to think about how to fit this element, necessary for a comfortable life, but not too attractive, into the landscape of the site, especially if it is located in an open place. It's easy to do.

There are special ones on sale now decorative covers for well hatches in the form of a large boulder or a removable flower bed. Can be arranged around the hatch alpine slide or install lightweight wooden or wire frame for climbing plants. There are many options, just use your imagination.

Conclusion

From all that has been said, we can draw an unambiguous conclusion: our comfort is in our hands, and if desired, it can be achieved without spending extra money and physical effort. Speaking specifically about the device individual sewerage on the site, the easiest way is to assemble it from finished products – plastic pipes, connecting elements and different types wells. The video in this article will show you how to do this correctly.

Owners of private houses most often have to independently install local treatment facilities on their site. It is cheaper and easier to install sewer wells in the form of a regular cesspool or a sealed storage tank. A well-designed treatment or storage point will do the job perfectly. Do you agree?

Here you will learn what materials are used in the construction of treatment facilities and storage tanks for independent sewerage. We have described in detail the technologies for constructing typical sewer wells. Taking into account our recommendations, it will be easier for you to decide on the best option in terms of price and effort.

Often, there is simply no centralized sewer system in the private sector with low-rise buildings. And it is necessary to get rid of household waste, but not to pour it on the ground. For this purpose they are building autonomous system sewerage system, including internal and external parts.

The in-house sewer system collects wastewater from plumbing fixtures, and its outer part is intended for its disposal or accumulation for subsequent pumping by sewer trucks. The receiving wastewater on the street is the end point of the local treatment system.

If there is no general sewerage network in the village, then you cannot do without a cesspool or sewage storage tank near a private house

Fecal wastewater in the sewer well is clarified, resulting in the formation of partially purified water and suspended matter. In case of cesspool the first is drained into the ground, and the second is decomposed by microorganisms to the state of sludge that is safe from a biological point of view.

If the option with a storage tank is chosen, then the sewage is simply collected in a sealed container, and as it fills, it is pumped out using a sewer truck.

The distance between the drainage bottom of the cesspool and the groundwater layer must be at least a meter, otherwise the purified water will have nowhere to go

Requirements for the construction of such structures

All sewage systems must be installed according to a pre-developed plan, which indicates the layout of all elements of the system and the building materials used. Its outer part in the case under consideration consists of a pipe draining away from the house and treatment plant.

The design and installation of sewer wells is regulated in the following regulatory documents:

If you do not comply with the requirements specified in them, then the sewerage system after assembly may simply be inoperable.

When choosing a place on the site for treatment structure do not forget about the need to leave free access to it; even the drainage cesspool must be cleaned from accumulated sludge from time to time

Structurally, the sewer well consists of:

• necks with a lid or hatch;
• shafts in the middle part (working chamber);
• bottom (draining or sealed depending on the installation option chosen).

Even similar elements of this design can vary greatly in size and shape. Here, a lot depends on the material of manufacture and design features of the treatment plant, as well as the volume of the tank.

What can a sewer well be built from?

A well structure can be made from a variety of building materials.

When choosing optimal option must be taken into account:

1. Climatic conditions of the area (maximum possible and average temperatures, total amounts of rainwater and snow).
2. Soil characteristics (freezing depth, composition and groundwater level).
3. Features of the site's relief.

If the soils are very heaving, then the sewer well should be made of the most durable building materials. And for wet soils you will have to select the most moisture-resistant option.

The cheapest and fastest to install is a structure made of reinforced concrete rings, but to install them in a dug pit you will need to order a crane

You can easily make a sewer well with your own hands from:

• brick and stone;
• monolithic concrete;
• reinforced concrete rings;
• ready-made plastic structures
• old car tires.

The cheapest option for self-installation is either a septic tank assembled from factory-made or home-made concrete rings.

But in the first case you will have to tinker with the masonry, and in the second you will need lifting equipment. It is not recommended to lower heavy concrete products into the pit manually, in case of failure and strong impact they may collapse.

It will only be possible to make a sewer well with drainage from brick; ensuring complete tightness of brick walls is extremely difficult and expensive

The concrete monolithic option will require arrangement of formwork and preparation of mortar. If the latter is ordered already mixed in a concrete mixer, this will lead to a serious increase in the cost of work.

Structures made of plastic (polyethylene or PVC), fiberglass and polymer sand are quite expensive. But they are durable and extremely easy to install yourself. Such products weigh little, a couple of people are enough to install them.

Used tires will make a very cheap sewer well. They cost pennies at a tire shop, but you can collect tires at a landfill for free. But here the problem is the same as in the case of brick.

It is extremely problematic to make such a structure airtight, and it is almost impossible to repair it. You can make them out of them, but you can’t create a storage device.

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Selecting the location and volume of the tank

When installing a sewer well, you must observe whole line sanitary and construction requirements. Failure to do this increases the risk of biological contamination. The situation can lead to an outbreak of infections, which threatens the owner of the cottage with serious problems.

The installation of a sewer well should be done away from:

• fruit-bearing trees and beds 3 m;
• foundations of buildings on a personal plot of 4–5 m;
• roads and underground engineering communications(gas, water, electricity) 5 m;
• wells for drinking water and reservoirs at 30 m.

A slight deviation from these figures is possible only when installing a sealed storage tank or when constructing a cesspool with thick concrete walls with reliable external waterproofing.

In the case of an absorption well, water that has passed through a multi-layer filter of sand and gravel must enter the underlying layers of soil away from buildings, communications, drinking wells, all types of reservoirs and private pools.

Distances should be maintained so as not to change the composition groundwater for the worse, do not pollute water bodies with insufficient cleaning and do not wash out the underlying base from under building structures and engineering networks.

However, if the well structure for sewage drains is removed too far from the house, then the pipeline between them will have to be installed every 10–15 meters, which will lead to additional considerable expenses. But this will have to be done, otherwise if the pipe is clogged, you will have to open up the soil in order to simply clean it.

Being the owner of your own country plot and not having your own well is probably not the most successful option. Yes, of course, some holiday villages are equipped with a centralized water supply system, but it’s still better to be completely independent from the “whims” of public utilities. The well will become a source of clean drinking water, satisfy all household needs, and provide irrigation personal plot, but only if it will be arranged correctly.

— materials and tools for carrying out waterproofing work.

Most modern wells are made of reinforced concrete rings. It is best to purchase products that have a “quarter” locking part for centered and tight fit of the rings to each other. Standard size rings – 1000 mm – internal diameter, 1160 – external, wall thickness – 80 mm, maximum height – 900 mm. Such a product (KS-10-9) weighs 600 kg. If necessary, you can purchase rings of the same diameter, but of a smaller height - 300, 500 or 600 mm. On the walls of such rings there are holes for inserting slings when hanging and lowering them into the shaft.

You should immediately warn against purchasing low-quality, illicit rings that are damaged or have already been used. Such savings here are not only inappropriate, but can also be dangerous, since the practice of arranging wells knows many cases of rupture, distortion, and bursting of rings with all possible consequences.

How many rings are needed is a question for everyone specific place individual. It is worth finding out from your neighbors how deep their well is; this figure should not change much. At the same time, the structure of the well itself is taken into account - the height of the water-bearing part itself, the trunk and the head.

Digging a well and installing rings

• Work begins with markings on the soil surface. For these purposes, as well as to control compliance with the dimensions of future penetration, you need to build a simple device - a cross of two slats, with a length equal to the required diameter of the shaft.

Cross - a template for further work

If the ring has an outer diameter of 1160, then the shaft should be marked approximately 200 - 300 mm wider, i.e. Ø from 1350 to 1450 mm with the open method of constructing a well (more on this below). With the closed method, the minimum required gap is left - so that the ring fits into the shaft without distortion.

• Remove the top layer of soil from the turf and begin to delve into the dense layers of soil.

All selected soil must be located at a distance of at least 3 meters from the pit from the work site. You can even immediately take it away, for example, to a place where it is planned to build an “alpine slide”. When the clay layer begins, it is better to store the selected clay separately - it will be useful in the future for waterproofing the well.

• After going deep to the height of the first ring, install a tripod or other structure on which the lifting mechanisms, A further work can be planned in different ways:

1. You can install the first ring exactly and continue to dig under it - it will fall under its own weight.

As the settlement progresses, the next ring is installed on the first one, and they are fastened together with brackets - and so on until the aquifer. This method is called “closed”, and is more relevant on problematic, shifting soils, with quicksand, underground “rivers”, etc. Thus, the digger always works in concrete ring, which goes down with it as the soil is removed.

This method is not considered optimal, as it has many disadvantages. Thus, a big problem during excavation can be a large boulder caught under the wall of the ring - removing it will not be easy, and sometimes even impossible. But on the other hand, installation of subsequent rings does not require complex lifting equipment, since it is always carried out at the top.

2. The second method is called “open” and involves digging a shaft to the entire required depth and then installing rings. Disadvantages - a much larger volume of selected soil, difficulties with installing and fastening the rings (the work is carried out at a considerable depth), there is always a danger of shedding or even collapse of the mine walls, especially when unstable aquifers begin or quicksand breaks through the wall - the source of “overwater” .

3. Based on the above, the optimal one will probably be mixed method. At the beginning work in progress open method, but before the first sign of instability of the walls or the appearance of signs of perched water. Then they immediately descend to the dug depth reinforced concrete rings, and further excavation is carried out already after closed technology, with the deposition of the growing well trunk. This is the approach most often used in practice.

• The work becomes more complicated once the aquifer is reached - according to the rules, it is necessary to settle the trunk on at least one more, and better yet, two more rings. Often it is necessary to ensure constant pumping of incoming water. Before entering this layer, the joints of the lower rings must immediately be sealed with special cement-containing compositions.

• The well shaft is built up in such a way that the upper ring protrudes approximately 500 mm above ground level. In the future, this head can be formed by a frame or in another way; a crank mechanism is installed above it to lift the bucket.

Video: methods of digging wells from reinforced concrete rings

After completely tearing off the well along its entire depth, it is necessary to pump out all the water and silt from it in order to install a bottom filter.

Well bottom filter

Without this element, the water in the well will not have the purity that the owner probably expects. The springs gushing at the bottom of the well can raise turbidity, sand, and in the case of quicksand (extremely saturated with water flowing sand) it will simply become overgrown and shallow very quickly.

The choice of bottom filter depends on the condition of the bottom - what kind of soil forms it:

• If the bottom is dense clay, through which springs flow, then, as a rule, the water will be clean, and there is not even a need for a bottom filter. Moreover, its installation can even reduce the debit of the well. Light turbidity, if any, can be easily eliminated with a regular household filtration system.
• If the bottom is formed by soft clay, then it will be constantly eroded by streams of incoming water. The water becomes excessively cloudy, and it can only be taken from the top layer. To eliminate this drawback, you will need a direct bottom filter.

To do this, large stones or crushed stones are placed on the bottom, with maximum size, up to 150 — 200 mm. Then a layer of medium-sized gravel (fraction 20-30 mm), up to 150 mm thick, is poured. And a final layer of clean river pebbles, also up to 150 mm thick, is laid on top. The total thickness of the resulting filter reaches half a meter.

• The sandy bottom through which water seeps in poses another danger. Any impact on it (for example, a lowered bucket) causes a rise in the sand mass, which rises to the top along with the water. It is impossible to install in such a well pump equipment– sand will quickly disable it. However, everything can be solved by creating a reverse bottom filter that will prevent grains of sand from rising from the bottom.

In this case, the washed water is first poured onto the bottom. river sand. The second layer is river pebbles or gravel up to 10 mm in size (shungite can be used). And the top layer will be large gravel or pebbles ranging in size from 50 mm. The thickness of each layer is at least 150 mm.

• The bottom is a pronounced quicksand - which means you can’t do without a special wooden shield. It is made from aspen or oak boards and cut exactly to the size of the bottom of the well. A large number of holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled into the shield. It is then wrapped in geotextiles and placed on the bottom.

To prevent it from floating up, they press it down with large stones. At least a 200-300 mm layer of small pebbles or gravel is laid on top.

What safety measures are required when digging a well?

The work of digging a well is very specific and dangerous and requires special precautions.

• First of all, the area should be fenced off and strangers, and especially children, should not be allowed into the work area.
• You cannot store the selected soil closer than 3 meters from the mine, or even better - immediately take it away to safe distance. Within the same radius there should be no foreign objects or unused tools at all near the shaft.
• All lifting mechanisms - construction sites, tripods, winches installed on them, gates, hoists and etc.. must be checked daily before starting work. The condition of ropes, slings, and rigging hooks is also carefully monitored. All lifting devices must have a reliable brake and locking system.
• Buckets (tubs) for extracting soil must be tightly tied to ropes, and when working at a depth of more than 6 meters, they must also have a safety end.
• Working at depth may be accompanied by the accumulation of gases in the mine, which can cause suffocation for the excavator. Before lowering it into the mine, the air quality must be checked - a burning candle is lowered into it. If it goes out, forced ventilation must be carried out, and then the test is repeated.
• If there is a lack of oxygen during work, it is necessary to create conditions for forced ventilation. For these purposes, you can use a compressor, fan or other air blower (sometimes even a powerful vacuum cleaner), or install a metal furnace near the shaft, the vent of which is connected to a pipe lowered to the very bottom of the shaft.
• It is imperative to warn the excavator by voice about objects being lowered or raised. A worker in a mine must wear a safety helmet, and the possibility of emergency evacuation must be provided.
• When working using the ring deposition method, the upper unclosed edge of the shaft should not be more than 1 meter. If there are signs of instability of the shaft walls, work is immediately stopped until the cause is determined and the possibility of eliminating it is determined.

Typically, work on high-quality digging of wells is carried out by teams of experienced professionals who have their own specialized equipment. It is almost impossible for a beginner to cope with such a task - there are too many nuances familiar only to masters, and the work is fraught with too many dangers.

At this point, the construction of a well at suburban area are far from finished. There is still serious work to be done on waterproofing, insulation, construction of a clay castle, concrete blind area, water pipes, head equipment and other stages. They will be discussed in more detail in other publications on our portal.