The accumulation of melt or sediment water on the site leads to many unpleasant consequences. To solve this problem, drainage structures are used, the functionality of which is especially important for clay soil that does not conduct moisture well. Step by step guide For instructions on installing a drainage system with your own hands, read below.
Drainage for clay soil
Before organizing drainage in an area with clay soil, it is important to know the characteristics of such soil. A small test is carried out first. To do this, you need to dig a hole about 60 cm deep and pour 6-7 buckets of water into it. If after a day the moisture is absorbed into the soil without any residue, then the area does not need complex system drainage In this case, storm water or backfill drainage is sufficient. Clay soil will not completely absorb water and therefore the site requires more careful arrangement.
Due to the fact that clay does not conduct moisture well, upper layers accumulations of water and puddles form in the soil. Excessive humidity leads to the destruction of building foundations, the death of plants and the creation of an overly humid atmosphere in the area. Therefore, drainage is necessary and allows you to dry clay soil, preventing unpleasant consequences.
To organize drainage, factors such as:
- the amount of incoming moisture in the form of precipitation, melt water, automatic watering, etc.;
- area of territory in need of drainage;
- financial capabilities that determine the type and quality of materials used for drainage.
The combination of buried and surface drainage allows you to dry the soil, providing normal conditions for plants and save buildings. At the same time, the buried option involves digging deep ditches, using pipes, crushed stone, geotextiles, and constructing a well for drainage water. All this requires financial costs and requires careful calculation of parameters.
Surface drainage consists of shallow channels that are directed towards the well to collect water. The recesses are covered with gratings on top and are easy to use. The system of such ditches does not require the use of pipes, since special material is laid at the bottom of the trenches. Thanks to this, moisture is transported into the well rather than remaining on the clay soil.
The combination of surface and buried systems is optimal for clay soil. Each option requires the development of a diagram indicating the location of ditches, wells and other elements. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sequence of installation stages, because drainage must perform its function quickly and efficiently.
Drainage device
To drain clay soil, surface and buried drainage is used. The first option can be a tray type or with a sand cushion. In any case, trenches are dug towards the well to collect water. The width of the ditches can be about 30 cm, and the depth up to 50 cm. At the same time, a slight uniform slope towards the well is maintained. For areas with a natural slope this is not necessary.
For a tray surface system, special boxes or plastic trays are installed in the trenches, through which water will be transported to the well. In the case of a sand cushion, you need to pour a small layer of sand onto the bottom of the ditches, the size of which is slightly larger than with the tray method, then crushed stone almost to the edges of the recess. You can pour multi-colored gravel on top or lay a layer of turf.
Buried drainage involves the creation of ditches in which a layer of crushed stone, drainage pipes, and geotextiles are laid. In a designated area, a well is installed in a recess to collect water, pipes are laid in the trenches on a layer of sand and geotextile, and then crushed stone is poured and the edges of the sheet are wrapped. The well should be located at the extreme point of the site, and all ditches should be directed towards it.
Drainage scheme
Before starting work on creating drainage, you should mark the location of all elements of the system on the site plan. The well should be placed in the far corner, the ditches run along the perimeter of the house or other buildings, connect into one trench and lead to the well. When planning deep system It is worth considering that pipes cannot be laid in clayey soil where heavy equipment and cars are driven. As a result, the soil will sag and damage drainage. Therefore, the best option is surface drying, which promotes rapid removal of moisture.
The diagram indicates the direction of each trench, as well as the slope of the ditches. If the site is located on a slope, then it is enough to simply dig ditches of the same depth all the way to the well. On a flat surface, the slope is calculated taking into account the standards.
The slope of the pipes is indicated by fractions, which are difficult for an ignorant person to understand. For example, 0.007 or 0.02. In fact, these numbers mean the ratio of the desired slope of the pipe to its length, expressed in meters. If you need to set a slope of 0.007, this means that for 1 linear m of pipe the height difference should be 7 mm. And if the slope is 0.02, then on one meter the height difference will be 2 cm. This difference in slopes results from the fact that for pipes different diameters different minimum slopes are required. And what larger diameter, the smaller the slope. For example, pipes with a diameter of 9–11 cm are always used for drainage drains. Minimum slope for them is 0.02. This means that the slope of each meter of drain must be at least 2 cm.
After calculating all the parameters, materials are selected and the drying unit is installed. For surface drainage, plastic trays are used, which are installed taking into account required slope, directions.
Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils - step-by-step instructions for installing various systems
Surface drainage can be organized with your own hands using a diagram and selecting materials. Simple system, consisting of trays, a well and other elements, will ensure timely removal of moisture. Surface drainage complemented with deep or backfill, which enhances the efficiency of drainage.
Deep drainage: step-by-step instructions
To create deep drainage you will need pipes. For the main line, elements with a diameter of 110 mm are used, and for additional ditches, pipes with a diameter of 60 mm are optimal. The well is constructed from concrete rings or a special polymer container is inserted into the recess. Crushed stone of fraction 20–40, coarse sand, and geotextiles are also necessary to create a drainage complex.
The work package includes the following actions:
- For a well, you should dig a hole, the depth of which is 2–3 m. Concrete rings install from the very bottom. The finished container is mounted in the same way. Sand is poured at the bottom in a layer of 20 cm, and then crushed stone at a depth of 30 cm. There must be holes in the rings or walls of the finished container for incoming pipes. The height of their location is equal to the depth of the pipes in the ditches, that is, about 100 cm from the top edge.
- Next you need to dig trenches according to the diagram. Their width is 50 cm, and their depth is 120 cm in the main highway and 100 cm in the side ones. The main channels reach the well, and the slope is 5 cm per 1 linear meter pipe length. You need to pour sand in a layer of about 20 cm at the bottom of the ditches, and then lay geotextiles. The edges of the canvas should be higher than the edges of the pit. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 20 cm, perforated pipes are laid, observing the slope.
- The pipes are connected to each other using coupling or socket joints. In the area of turns and on straight sections, inspection wells must be installed every 25 cm. The height of such elements should ensure their elevation above the soil level. Inspection wells are necessary to monitor the condition and clean the system.
- Crushed stone must be poured onto the pipes so that the filter material completely covers them. Next, the geotextile is wrapped. The remaining space in the trench is filled with sand, and a layer of turf or decorative gravel is laid on top.
Installation of surface drainage
Deep drainage is designed to remove moisture from the soil, and the surface system prevents water from stagnating in the upper layer of clay soil. Rain moisture or melt water is immediately discharged into the well, transported through special gutters. This allows you to remove water from the roof of buildings and avoid the appearance of puddles in areas with clay soil.
For a surface system, you need to mark on the site plan the direction of the ditches that should lead to the well. The slope is the same as for deep drainage. The following steps are followed:
- According to the scheme, small trenches are dug, which are well compacted. It is necessary to observe the slope of the ditches towards the well or catch basins. If the site has a natural slope, then the depth of the channels may be the same. The depth of the trenches is up to 80 cm, and their width is 40 cm.
- Sand is poured into the bottom of the trenches in a layer of 10 cm, and then the same amount of crushed stone of fraction 20–40. Next, you need to pour onto the filter material concrete mortar and immediately install trays for removing water.
- Sand traps should be installed at the end of each line of gutters using the same installation method as for gutters. Storm water inlets under drainpipes buildings are installed using the same method. All parts are well connected to each other, forming a single system. Next, the trays need to be covered on top with special grilles.
Drainage operation
Proper organization of any type of drainage system is the key to comfort in an area with clay soils. Quick removal of moisture after rain avoids the formation of puddles, high humidity air and destruction of the foundation of buildings. And drainage is also practical in areas where there are plants that do not tolerate stagnant water. In this case, drainage ditches should be provided around these plants.
During the operation of deep and surface versions of the systems, it is necessary to regularly clean them of debris, leaves, grass and sand. This helps maintain efficient drainage. You also need to take into account the following operating features:
- inspection wells and sand traps must be regularly cleaned of contamination;
- damage to buried pipes requires their timely replacement;
- Before completing the installation of the structure, you need to check it by pouring several buckets of water into the pipes or trays. Moisture should quickly enter the main well;
- In clayey soil, pipes cannot be laid in areas subject to heavy loads.
To create drainage with your own hands, you should use only high-quality pipes and trays, durable geotextiles, medium-fraction crushed stone and coarse sand. It is important to carefully fix coupling and other connections to avoid moisture leakage in the wrong place.
Video: how to make a storm drain
For a site on clay soil, a drainage system is necessary, as it eliminates excess moisture. In this case, clayey soil can settle, which requires careful development of the pipe layout.
If the soil around the house consists of loam and clay, then in the spring and after rains the territory of the estate turns into a small swamp. It needs to be drained somehow and quickly, otherwise the plants will rot and the foundation will begin to fall apart. Let's figure out how to drain an area on clay soil in order to quickly remove excess water from it.
Excess moisture in the soil leads to oxygen starvation of plants. The roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen, which inevitably leads to the death of the greenery. This problem affects trees, shrubs and lawn grass. Without effective drainage, not a single plant will survive in a clay area; water will destroy everything.
Herringbone drainage system – best option for a small area
Earth with excess moisture is an ideal incubator for all kinds of slugs and snails. And which gardener needs these pests that feed on garden plantings? Plus, waterlogged soil is a direct threat to the foundation of the house. No waterproofing layer will save the foundation of a building under constant exposure to water.
Clay itself does not allow moisture to pass through, and if the site is also in a lowland, then a drainage system will have to be installed. Otherwise, not only the future harvest, but also the owner of the house risks drowning in the mud.
How to determine whether the soil is clay or not
It is possible to accurately assess the characteristics of the soil only after appropriate research, which should be carried out by a professional hydrogeologist. An option is possible when the clay does not protrude to the surface, but lies in a continuous layer at a shallow depth. The soil on top seems to be good, but literally after half a meter a clay layer begins, which does not want to drain moisture further into the soil.
Only the degree of permeability of the earth can be approximately determined. To do this, just dig a hole half a meter deep and pour water into it. If after a couple of days the recess turns out to be dry, then the area can do without additional drainage. Otherwise, it will definitely have to be drained.
Draining a clay area with your own hands
There are two main ways to make drainage in a clay area:
- Using a surface drainage system from trays.
- Through deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.
The first option will allow you to divert only melted and rainwater. Only a buried system can cope with the moisture that is already in the soil.
Scheme for draining an area with clay soil
Wells, trays and pipes can be made of concrete, asbestos cement or iron. But the most practical material– plastic. Nowadays you can purchase a whole set of various elements of a storm sewer system from cross-linked polyethylene; all that remains is to assemble them together.
Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and storm gutters are best purchased from cross-linked polyethylene. It tolerates frosts calmly and does not crack during frosts.
The choice of drainage type depends on:
- the owner’s financial capabilities;
- area and relief of the land plot;
- estimated precipitation volumes;
- soil structures at different depths.
In any case, you first need to prepare a project plan drainage system with reference to the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.
What is needed to build a water drainage system
To drain an area with clay soil, you will need the following tools:
- Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
- Garden wheelbarrow.
- A hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting pipes.
- Twine cord for marking.
- Construction bubble level
You should also stock up in advance:
- fine gravel with sand;
- pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
- geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
- pipe fittings;
- gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
- factory-assembled well structures.
Installation of surface drainage
Open drainage on clay soil is the easiest to do. If the groundwater lies deep enough, then it is quite enough for drainage local area. In terms of labor costs and finances, this option is optimal.
Scheme of surface storm drainage from individual elements
A system of collecting and discharging water trays for surface drainage is laid with a slope from the house to the lowest point of the site, where a septic tank or infiltrator is installed. From the septic tank, the clarified liquid is discharged into a roadside ditch, a nearby body of water or a street storm sewer.
The main thing when planning a drainage system is to make maximum use of the terrain of the site. If it has a slope, then this is just an ideal case. It will be enough to dig ditches along this slope and lay trays in them at an angle to the lowest point.
Open drainage can be made in the form of landscaped gutters made of stone
Installation of surface drainage in a clay area is carried out in five stages:
- Digging trenches according to the designed pattern up to half a meter deep.
- Filling the bottom of the ditches with a sand and gravel cushion 15–20 cm thick.
- Laying trays at a slope of 2–5 degrees to the water intake.
- Covering storm gutters from leaves and debris with metal gratings.
- Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or a storage tank with a pump.
After completing all the work, all that remains is to check the functionality of the storm drain by running water into it from a hose.
Deep drainage device
A buried drainage system is formed from a main pipeline and perforated pipes connected to it. The main line can be made alone - in the middle of the site, then the drains are connected to it in a herringbone pattern. Or it is laid along the fence along the border of the estate, and all drainage pipes are connected to this perimeter.
To lay pipelines, you need trenches 35–40 cm wide and up to one and a half meters deep (depending on the groundwater level and the freezing point of the soil). At their bottom, a 15-centimeter cushion of sand and crushed stone is made and geotextiles are spread to protect the perforation from clogging.
Then another 10–20 cm of gravel is poured onto the geotextile substrate and drains are laid on it, which are then sprinkled with crushed stone and covered with geofabric on top. As a result, the drainage pipe with perforation should end up in gravel on all sides and wrapped around it with geotextile.
Distance and depth of drains in various soils
Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on clay soils will quickly clog. Needle-punched geofabric is an essential element of deep drainage in a clayey area.
When arranging drainage in areas with clay buds, in addition to the usual non-woven fabric, you can use bulk shells made of coconut fiber to wrap the pipes. Drains with them are sold ready for installation.
Layout diagram of drainage perforated pipes
Inspection and storage wells can be made from:
- bricks;
- reinforced concrete;
- plastic.
If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then it is also better to use all wells and septic tanks from a similar material. It’s easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.
Video: drainage work in a difficult area
The combination of deep and surface drainage systems is guaranteed to drain even a wetland. Such drainage of clay soils has been tested over years of practice. Its installation is simple, and seasonal inspections and washings are sufficient as part of the maintenance. But it is better to entrust the design of the drainage system to an experienced specialist. There are many nuances and without specialized knowledge it is difficult to correctly calculate the laying depth, slope, and diameter of pipes.
Nature doesn't always arrange everything exactly the way we want. This is especially noticeable in our own plot of land. One of the problems may be periodic flooding of the ground after snow melts or heavy rainfalls. The solution is obvious - a drainage system is needed, especially if the soil is poorly permeable.
Do-it-yourself site drainage clay soils– the event is quite feasible, although labor-intensive. It is important to correctly perform some calculations and take into account a number of features of clay soils.
When planning a drainage system, first determine the type of soil on your site. In our case, the permeability of the soil layer is important. If its degree is high, then drainage may simply not be required.
On clay soils everything is different: they are heavy, do not allow moisture to pass through well, and therefore take a long time to dry. Which Negative consequences this gives?
Let's start with basic discomfort. If the region is famous for snowy winters, then in the spring the land on the site is almost like a swamp. Walking is almost impossible - dirty and slippery. Plus none gardening work: Is it possible to do anything on soggy soils?
Vegetation will also suffer. Soil oversaturated with moisture does not allow oxygen to reach the root systems very well. The result is oxygen starvation, oppression and even death of plantings. This is clearly noticeable if there is a lawn on the site: the soil there is dense in itself, since loosening is not carried out. Flooding is especially dangerous when the crops begin to ripen. The quality of clay soil in the beds and in the garden can be gradually improved, but this is very difficult to do over the entire site.
Wet soils are a real resort for some snails and slugs. These pests can significantly damage plantings, especially vegetable ones. Waterlogging of the soil can unpredictably damage the foundations of buildings. Even high-quality waterproofing can break down over time if the soil is subject to deep freezing. It's just not safe anymore.
Do groundwater flow relatively close to clay soils? This could be another problem. In this case, the soil has virtually no chance to dry properly. Any serious downpour and the ground literally turns to mush.
Conclusion: site drainage on clay soils is necessary. All problems are immediately resolved: the soil dries out much faster than before, you can make beautiful paths and not be afraid that they will “float”, the garden flourishes in every sense.
What kind of soil do you have?
Determining the degree of soil permeability is easy. Dig a hole of small diameter, 0.6 m deep, and fill it with water. Has the moisture gone deeper within 24 hours? This means that the soil has high permeability. Two days have passed, but the pit is not yet empty, which means the soil is definitely heavy. Draining the area with your own hands is definitely necessary.
How to make drainage on a site
How to make drainage of a site on clay soil with your own hands? The type of drainage system depends on several factors:
- land area;
- estimated amount of precipitation, groundwater and melt water;
- financial opportunities.
According to the method of installation, drainage on the site can be superficial or buried. In the first case, shallow trenches and special trays are required, which are covered with gratings. In the second, the trenches are much deeper. They are lined with geotextiles, then a layer of crushed stone is poured, and drainage pipes (drains) are laid.
On top and on both sides of the pipes there is another layer of crushed stone, over which the edges of the textile are folded overlapping and secured. Then - backfilling with soil.
On heavy soils it is recommended to combine both methods. Surface drainage will ensure rapid drainage of melt and sediment water. The inhabitants of the site will not have to wait until the moisture itself seeps into the soil. The recessed part of the drainage system will reliably direct water to Right place.
There are two more important points:
- In heavy soils, it is undesirable to lay drains where the car will drive (park). The earth in this place will quickly become denser, and this part of the system will simply become useless.
- At the stage of digging trenches, the ground in the places of installation drainage channels must be thoroughly loosened. This will temporarily increase its permeability and slightly slow down caking and compaction.
Design
On small area you can do without serious engineering calculations. It is enough to clearly imagine the entire system.
- Take a plan of your site, preferably to scale. All buildings must be marked on it. At the time of design, you should already know whether there is a natural slope on the site. Most often this can be seen without any instruments. If you have any doubts, invite a specialist with a level.
- Start drawing the future drainage system on the plan. The main thing is the main canal, the main drainage system. It runs from the highest point of the site to the lowest. If the site is flat, then the direction of the main drainage system can be chosen arbitrarily, and the slope can be formed artificially.
- Then you need to design where additional drainage ditches will go. On clay soils, the distance between them should be about ten meters. The finished drainage system resembles a Christmas tree in appearance on the plan.
If it is possible to make combined drainage, then at the end of each “branch” and at the beginning of the main line there should be areas for rapid collection of water from the surface.
Important question: where will it go excess water? There are three most popular options:
- Ditch along the road (it is advisable to coordinate with neighbors “downstream”).
- Decorative swamp on the site itself.
- Underground water intake well with drainage pump.
Performance
For buried drainage, trenches with a depth of 1 - 1.2 and a width of 0.35 meters will be required. The amount of geotextiles, crushed stone, pipes, connecting and other elements is calculated in advance based on the drainage diagram. Tools needed:
- bayonet and shovel shovels for earthworks;
- wheelbarrow or stretcher (remove soil, carry and pour out crushed stone);
- for the correct formation of the slope - a rod and a level;
- hacksaw to cut pipes.
It is important to remember: the slope is formed at the rate of approximately 1 cm per meter of pipe.
After the geofabric, crushed stone, pipes and drainage trays have been laid, it is important not to rush into the final filling of soil. Given the complexity of the soil, the drainage system needs testing. If possible, wait for a suitable downpour; if not, simulate precipitation using a hose and a stream of water.
If the flows correctly pass the entire system from beginning to end, the tests can be considered successfully completed. If the water stagnates, it is advisable to lay additional channels.
Installing drainage on clay soil will significantly improve the condition of the site, increase the comfort of staying there after snow melts or heavy rainfall, and make gardening easier.
If you wish, you can even register a plot according to latest fashion in area landscape design, after all excess moisture will stop preventing this.
The drainage system, if it is done correctly and with high quality, will work for decades without the need for repairs and will ensure optimal drainage of the site.
Not all owners of suburban plots are “lucky” with ideal hydrogeological conditions. It is often only during the process of cultivating the land or building that they realize that groundwater lies high and that during flood periods there are puddles for a long time. There is no need to worry, drainage will solve this problem. Agree, building it is much easier than looking for a perfect site.
The drainage system will remove excess moisture from the soil and plant layer, which will provide normal height cultural green spaces. It will divert underground water from the foundation in case of contact, protect the basement and inspection hole garage from flooding.
Those wishing to arrange drainage garden plot With your own hands or through the efforts of a team of landscape workers, you will find detailed answers to all sorts of questions. Our material describes in detail the options for drainage systems groundwater and methods of their construction.
A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:
- The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
- Groundwater is noted at a level close to the earth's surface.
- The site is located in a lowland, river valley or drained swamp area.
- The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
- The dacha was built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.
Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with underlying clay soils: sandy loam, loam. During periods of heavy rainfall and snow melting, this type of rock allows water to pass through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.
Stagnation of water at the level of soil development is associated with waterlogging. In humid environment the fungus actively multiplies, infections and pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases vegetable crops, rotting roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.
Due to stagnation of water, the soil-vegetative layer becomes waterlogged, as a result of which plants die in a water-saturated environment and the deterioration of appearance plot. The drainage system allows you to eliminate moisture instantly, preventing its long-term impact on the ground
If the problem of waterlogging of the soil is not addressed, erosion of the soil may occur over time. In frosty weather, soil layers containing water will swell, which can cause damage to the foundation, paved paths and other landscaping facilities.
To check whether drainage is necessary, you need to find out throughput soil layers on the site. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the maximum.
If the water is absorbed within a day, then the underlying soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not go away, it means that clay rocks lie under the soil and plant layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.
Due to the heaving of water-saturated rocks, the walls of residential structures may crack, as a result of which the building may become unsuitable for permanent residence
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Owners of land in a lowland or on a steep slope are faced with a problem when water stagnates in the lowest place, when the water intake may be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory it is necessary to build a storage well into which a drainage pump must be installed. With its help, water is pumped upward and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.
If for disposal collected water If it is planned to build a absorption well on the site, then the work on its construction is carried out in the following sequence:
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The inability to engage in gardening and gardening, deterioration of the landscape, erosion of the foundations of buildings - this is what is fraught with regular flooding of the territory with soil and. The most vulnerable areas are those on complex clay soils, which, due to their density, are difficult for water to pass through. How to cope with such a scourge? Only one option will help here - quality. You can’t do without it especially on clay soil with high level water, so if you happen to be the owner of just such a site, further instructions for organizing a drainage system with your own hands with a diagram and video are exactly for you. So, why is drainage so important and how to do it correctly? Let's figure it out.
Specifics of clayey areas
If you still doubt the need for mandatory drainage on clay soil with a high water level, becoming familiar with the specifics of this type of soil will free you from any hesitation. As already noted, clay does not allow moisture to pass through well, so the latter lingers in the upper layers of the soil for a long time, thereby causing a lot of problems.
Firstly, due to the fact that the clay is in a wet state almost all year round, drying out only in the hot summer, all plants planted directly on the ground suffer from an excess of water: their root system does not receive enough oxygen and begins to waste away.
Secondly, wet clay is almost impossible to dig up, which makes caring for planted crops very difficult.
In clay soils, drainage is essential.
Thirdly, since the water does not drain away for a long time, it violates the waterproofing of the foundations of the house and outbuildings of the site, which leads to flooding in the warm season, and to freezing in the cold season.
Do you want to protect yourself from all these problems? Then do not put off the issue of organizing a drainage system for a long time.
Preparing for drainage installation
The most important key to the successful arrangement of a drainage system on clay soil with increased level water – properly executed preparatory stage. Here we highlight three main steps.
Drafting. The drainage plan for the territory should include the following data:
- position of trenches taking into account bends and slopes;
- position of inspection and water intake wells;
- direction of water movement;
- dimensions of all system components.
Drainage selection. On clay soil, two types of drainage can be organized: 1) surface - open option a system that is installed with a relatively small depth into the ground; 2) deep – more complex closed version drainage, which involves deepening the mains by at least 50 cm.
Advice. Surface drainage system – great option For small plots with a natural slope of the terrain. If at your disposal large territory with several buildings, it is better to go with deep drainage.
Procurement of tools and working materials. To install the drainage system you will need:
- with a diameter from 75 to 110 mm - plastic with perforation;
- fittings and couplings;
- geotextiles for filtration;
- wells – inspection and receiving;
- sand and gravel;
Drainage scheme
- hacksaw;
- tamping;
- shovel;
- wheelbarrow for transporting building materials;
- level.
Organization of surface drainage
Surface drainage can be backfill or tray. In both cases, installation begins according to the general scheme:
- Mark the area for drainage and install a water intake well at the lowest point. Dig trenches along the perimeter of the marked working area with a slope of about 30 degrees towards the water intake. The optimal depth is 50 cm, width is 50-60 cm.
- Lead all trenches to a common ditch, which will go to the drainage basin.
- Pour a 10 cm layer of fine sand into the trench and compact it thoroughly.
Advice. To test the effectiveness of the trench system, carry out a simple experiment: pour water into the ditches one by one and watch whether it flows in the right direction - to the receiving well. If deviations in movement are observed, adjust the angle of the walls of the problem trenches.
- Place geotextiles in the ditches.
- Fill the trenches with crushed stone: fill 2/3 of the depth with large material, and the remaining 1/3 with small material.
- Cover the layer of fine crushed stone with turf.
Trench preparation
In turn, the installation of tray drainage continues according to the following scheme:
- Prepare trays, concrete or plastic, to suit the width of the trenches.
- Fill the trench with a 10 cm layer of fine crushed stone.
- Pour cement onto the crushed stone and immediately install trays on it.
- Attach sand traps at the end of the mounted trays.
- Cover the trays with durable decorative grilles.
Deep drainage device
Algorithm for organizing deep drainage on complex clay soil with a high water level:
- Mark the area and choose the most appropriate place for installing a water intake. On the designated working area, dig ditches: depth - 100-120 cm, width - 50 cm. Slope to the drainage basin - 30 degrees.
- Pour a 10 cm layer of fine sand into the trench and then compact it.
- Place geotextiles in the ditches - it should cover the walls of the ditches and extend onto their sides.
- Place a 15 cm layer of fine-grained crushed stone on the geofabric.
- Place on crushed stone plastic pipes- must be perforated downwards. Lay pipes in all trenches, connecting them with couplings and fittings. Install inspection wells at the turns of drainage lines - they should rise above the ground.
- Cover the pipes with fine crushed stone and wrap the free edges of the geotextile so that you get a kind of cocoon.
- Fill the remaining trench gaps with sand.
- Cover the trenches with soil. Wait until it settles and add another layer of soil on top, leveling the trenches to ground level. Place a layer of turf on top.
Drainage arrangement
When drainage pipes will be installed, start organizing the water intake. In its role it can be used as a ready-made plastic container, and a self-assembled well from reinforced concrete rings. The average diameter of the collector is 1-1.5 m. The water receiver must be installed in a shallow hole and secured there with supports.
As you can see, organizing drainage on clay soil with a high level of groundwater does not contain any super complex processes. The main thing in this matter is to decide on the drainage option and strictly follow the rules for its organization. And the reward for your efforts will not be long in coming - you will finally forget about constant flooding and will be able to enjoy a full life on your site.
Site drainage: video
Drainage on the site: photo
