How to make a sofa with your own hands: options, instructions and assembly diagrams. DIY upholstered furniture DIY corner sofa bed step by step instructions

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. In small apartments, a sofa can replace a bed, a wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, the sofa is a very complex product, one of the most complex in furniture production, therefore, the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take on them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, which are relatively low in functionality and are not particularly strong and durable. This publication is designed to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will be passed on to their grandchildren, unless they have to reupholster it. And designed for premises with the widest range of conditions of use: from garden gazebo to the kitchen and children's room.

This is not as difficult as it might seem and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for a summer house, a nursery, temporary use until you can get some money for furniture) is quite possible in a garage, barn and even on a balcony. This is how old-time furniture makers worked. High-tech “bells and whistles” make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the furniture design is very conservative. Operations requiring production conditions, in its manufacture it is almost always possible to replace it with even more labor-intensive ones that require skill and ingenuity more than that of a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor belt, but produced with hand tools.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is the corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially clearly manifested in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping-living room sofa corner, pos. And in the figure, when folded, it does not have any sleeping appearance and the most orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (according to the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded it turns into a double bed. These are also called bachelors’ sofas: I’m tired, I don’t have the time – I’ll fall asleep in the one-room apartment. And the next (or forever only) passion has arrived - there is enough room for two to settle down, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, there is nothing complicated: a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa, uniformly designed and put together, like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in a corner is not only a bad omen, but also inconvenient, so last years The corner seat is increasingly being replaced by a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. Diagram of such a device kitchen corner shown in Fig. below. You can dine on it alone if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and trunks (as sofa boxes are called) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of household goods, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam diagram (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections is according to the location in the room; other sizes are standard, see below. The sidewall material is 40 mm hardwood board or 36 mm chipboard. The bottom of the sofa is 12-16 mm chipboard on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a 30 mm board, 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm beams (shelf supports). Assembly - with self-tapping screws, dowels and half-timber inserts, all with PVA or “Moment” gluing. At current prices, no more than 3,000 rubles worth of materials is required.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (load-bearing) structure, most often including a drawer, a bed - a sofa, if there is a lifting drawer, a backrest and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a drawer are added to them. Typical sofa sizes:

• Length – 1200-1900 mm.
• The width of the sofa is 550-700 mm.
• The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
• Back height, without extras. pillows – 200-700 mm.
• Backrest tilt – 5-20 degrees.
• The height of the “sitting” surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

• Legs – 50-70 mm.
• Support frame – 50-100 mm.
• Box – 150-250 mm.
• The bottom of the sofa (with frame) is 55-75 mm.

This leaves up to 120 mm for soft padding with sheathing. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work of making a sofa is its stuffing, upholstery and upholstery. These are different manufacturing operations; each of them separately and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are actively promoting themselves on the RuNet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with non-woven materials (fleece, etc.), which in themselves are short-lived. Secondly, they are covered using a simplified system with the corners turned inside out, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the covering. And most importantly, with this method of work there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for reupholstery; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, you will need serious preparatory work. Its essential subtleties will be described below; Beginners are advised to upholster a sofa using the old amateur method with saddle stitch fitting. The pros don't do much work for them, because... it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of heyday?), when you had to sign up for furniture reupholstery a year in advance, and even give a bribe, it was successfully used by “complete dummies.” The sofa is covered step by step like this:

1. The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (possibly propylene);
2. Install soft padding, most often foam mats;
3. They cover the soft material, in order of preference, with spandbond, padding polyester, or batting;
4. On the cut decorative fabric sweep the curtains under the cords, if decorative scars/straps are provided, see below;
5. The decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown over the product with the wrong side out, pulled in as described below, and the corners are swept away with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with the scar facing out;
6. After a day, check to see if the pattern is wrinkled, sagging, or distorted, especially geometric ones, and if necessary, adjust the angles;
7. If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
8. Tighten the cords into the drawstrings for tightening, if necessary;
9. Throw on the cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
10. After another day, check the drawing and adjust the tension threads;;
11. Everything is OK – the lapels are secured;
12. Decorative ties are formed.

The procedure, as we see, is quite complicated and lengthy. This is explained by the fact that the properties of fabrics, incl. upholstery, vary noticeably within a piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience; now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional computer cutting programs. Homemade templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the fabric consumption. A rough estimate of the method: the length of a cut with a width of 150 cm is equal to 2 widths of the sofa + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the length of the cut using templates (allowance from 15 cm) saves lengths of up to 1 m (!); how much is it in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if you are reupholstering a sofa, it is undesirable to use old upholstery as a pattern. Under a microscope or magnifying glass, it is clearly visible that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same jacquard or tapestry from the same loom.

Paragraphs also require additional clarification. 1-3. If you stuff the skin hastily, wood-glue-sintepon-foam-rubber-decor, then after a while you will find that the skin is greasy, sticky to the touch, especially in summer, and the dearest parts of the body feel uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what kind of lifespan is this for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads on both the bottom and top to remove evaporation/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and drawer, if the design of the item does not include any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. Fabric folds at the joints in this case do not reduce the strength of the connection because vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads are supported by additional loads. fasteners, see below.

Note: The famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of ​​silent blocks in tracks came to his mind when he was renovating his sofa. It’s not surprising that the rich man tinkered with the furniture himself; Christie was an engineer of the second class. Ι genus rearranges pieces of paper at the table, and ΙΙth can do everything he comes up with with his hands.

A sofa and its lifting mechanism(in the simplest case - piano/card loops and a limiter cord). Perhaps the sofa will be hard with a loose mattress lying on it. In any case, the sofa is also covered separately in advance.

A special case is office sofas, etc., used in unfavorable conditions with the possibility of careless use. Their supporting system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for those who like to use the compounds shown there with confirmations obliquely. With special equipment and accessories, “oblique screws” are economical and technologically advanced and therefore widely used in industrial production furniture classes up to middle. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, drilling very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and in 2 mating parts at once is problematic, if not impossible. And self-tapping screws that move to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple beam sofa is shown in Fig. It is most suitable for a gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, the pillows are brought/taken away as they are used, and before assembly, the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (can be worked off) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion. Finish – acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

At the dacha, where rain still doesn’t pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a homemade sofa with a simplified beam system, its arrangement is on the left side of the trail. rice. Its basis is strong side armrests and a pair of cross beams. Completes the power circuit of the box-bridge; in this case, it is necessary to have 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

• Armrests - 20-24 mm plywood with board overlays on top (to make them wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen) 30-36 mm chipboard.
• Box – oak/beech board 30 mm; bottom – plywood from 6 mm.
• Beam legs - any commercial wood.
• The back is the same, shield, (300-400)x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled; this method will be useful to us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to the timber beams, but also to the sidewalls from the inside using a zigzag (snake) in increments of 120-150 mm, with a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the board. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a larger proportion of dynamic alternating signs, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to pile the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon become loose. According to this scheme, a children's sofa with drawers, shown on the right in Fig; The diagram for assembling the boxes is there at the bottom right. The material of all lengths is oak/beech 30 mm; the sides and bottom of the sofa are plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - with glue.

Note: It is not worth using laminated chipboard - for children's furniture only phenol class E0 is acceptable, but this material is quite fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to lift a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, you won’t be able to lift the sofa back: the back gets in the way. All that remains is to lift forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the owner is not two meters tall, how can she put/get something? Roll the whole thing into the box and squeak, kicking your slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly - does not require high precision execution; the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique diamond with 2 dead spots. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa-ottoman with it, is shown in Fig.

Note: The author is aware of the curious case of an oblique rhombus. A drinking, but skilled man, while making this ottoman, fenced off nooks behind the levers (they say, there are some kind of mechanics there too) and arranged hiding places in them for bottles with the required drink. I even brought out the tubes under the trim behind the back. And the better half was more than 10 years old, until he went into a deep hole and split up himself, and it was not clear why this faithful person was a loser every day, but did not run to the store for a bottle.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and also in the professional, world, innovative works appear here all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for folding out a classic sofa-book is quite capricious. Either it jams/seizes, then assembling/disassembling the sofa is difficult for ladies' hands, or it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the selected sample discovers that in a rough-looking piece of iron there are curved surfaces made with sufficient high accuracy, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, amateurs most often make sofa beds as roll-out/pull-out ones.

Here, the most common are 2 systems, with a free retractable half of the bed, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles heel is its legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravity ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break; the sofa sagging when pulled out will help.

The bridge circuit is more reliable, especially since its movable (on rollers) supports will also bedside tables. True, you will have to reach for them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep feet first.

The structure of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge circuit is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper pair of rollers (guides/stops) run in the grooves of the drawer. Pay attention to Det. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but simply a decorative overlay. The surfaces of sleeping halves A and B are, naturally, flush. The half-box A is often made to fold forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by the cover B. Then the small drawers D are opened. Lovers of “strawberries and cream” (erotomaniacs/nymphomaniacs, a surprisingly monotonous and primitive-minded public) consider them reliable hidden secret places and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems general disadvantage: To transform a sofa into a bed, some extra free space behind the back is required. This doesn’t happen in a small bedroom, and trash accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console design, now for some reason completely undeservedly relegated to the background, are deprived of this defect.

How the console sofa bed is arranged is shown in Fig. on right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional widening of the console and increasing the height of the backrest, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal two-bed bed). In this case, the excess width of the seat when assembled is compensated by pillows that, when extended, form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the utility room), they are stored in a box. Some tilt of the backrest is achieved due to the piano hinge, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood spacer under the lower hinge wing.

The main materials are 50x30 beams and 4-6 mm plywood. The armrests are based on solid waste construction timber. The console frame is of the same design as for the box. Connections - through tenons or met. corners, no matter. The height of the cushions is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, so for use in normal conditions It is advisable to increase the height of the console and put the box on legs.

About Eurobooks

The concept of the euro is no longer being discussed. Moldovans, for example (they have experience communicating with local guest workers) dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk with euros (to the point of death, to the point of a green serpent, blue devils and pink elephants), and go to the toilet with euros a lot (no constipation or diarrhea). And an ordinary folding sofa bed is now often on sale not just like that, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but a Euro-book sofa of the click-clack type (see picture) is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To create a double bed, the armrests and sides of the backrest also recline. It is not clear what to call them. It doesn't look like headrests. Podkonchniks, or something. When unfolded, triangular gaps form in the heads/legs, which are covered by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to unfold the click-clack into a bed, you need at least 0.7 m of free space along its contour. Where can I get it? Perhaps in a studio apartment, the occupant of which is embarrassed to show that he also sleeps here. However, such a state of mind is typical for today’s, and not only today’s, Europeans. You can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a sofa-book click-clack – well, that’s okay.

How to do?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill and saw? Well, let's get started. Just don’t forget that what is being tightened must be tightened in front general assembly. We’ll discuss how to cover something after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, and the making of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and drawer

In a professional, artisanal manner, so to speak, the supporting frame is assembled on blind tenons with wedging and gluing. They provide a completely hidden connection and furniture on these lasts for centuries, but to make them you need manual frezer woodworking skills, or mastery of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inserted legs, pos. 1 in Fig. This is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Beam cross-section from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 using glue.

The box is best assembled on triangular section bosses from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened to the box boards (oak/beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0)x45, 2-3 pieces each. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with sizing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you take the time to assemble the box on dowels, a pair per joint, before installing the bosses.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the staples of the stapler do not fit into it well, many bend and tear the casing; wallpaper nails too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile and delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet and may simply fall through, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to reupholster the sofa, the chipboard/fibreboard bottom will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material will be torn apart so that you can no longer attach the new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick, impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if you need a box without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood as wide as the length of the sofa are not produced. The pieces need to be connected so that the joint is supported by the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are scraps that are enough for the bottom.

In the industrial production of high-quality furniture, plywood sheets are connected with a shaped strip made of hard wood, at the top at pos. 3. You can make the “shape” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its internal width). The gusset is fastened from the inside to the frames (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-shaped beam made of 50-70 mm strips with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner no less thick than plywood. It will give rigidity to the beam, and without it, the sheets assembled end-to-end will begin to mutually delaminate each other under work loads. Everything is assembled on small nails and secured in a box like a gusset.

Connect the box to the frame (remember, after the lining, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough to prevent it from sliding to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to the dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle on the short sides and 2-3 evenly along the length on the long sides.

Note: if the drawer is without bulkheads, the back height should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back drawer drawer will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the back (item 1 in the figure) is spar A made of hard board (120-150) x 40 mm. Most often, to simplify the work, it is made of sections, but a solid one will be stronger. This one gets smashed into vertical racks flush and placed first on the dowels. It is also advisable to assemble the entire frame first on dowels, and then fasten it at the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. The bosses in this case can simply be scraps of timber, because The internal volume of the backrest is not used.

The height H1 is equal to the height of the support frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 – the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of the bottom slab made of oak, etc. – from 40 mm. It, together with the spar and rectangular parts of the racks, makes up the lower backrest belt. This is a very responsible node, because The normal operating load of people reclining tends to tear it away from the lower support.

The normal number of stands for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pieces. evenly along the length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. also covers the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners of the supporting structure, the outermost ones - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the backrest is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm. His “responsibility” is necessary when people stand on the back to reach something above or when the sofa is dragged by the back when moving furniture. Also here the upholstery is most likely to creep and wrinkle, so the top beam is planed into one plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can also be pine.

The production of the backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. This is necessary to give the entire module the necessary rigidity for a strong connection with the support, but there is no need to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare poses. 2 and 3. The last one is a gross mistake that simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously worsens the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this backrest to the support? Self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards? How long will a sofa like this last before the back comes off?

Connection to support

Assembling a backrest with a support is exactly the case when metal fasteners in furniture are necessary. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the back parts with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the drawer/frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads into the drawer/frame), 3 of each per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are still springs under the nuts; it won’t be possible to tighten them later!

You need 2 corners for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal in each section at the top, in the area of ​​greatest load (towards the spar), evenly along the length, and 1- 2 horizontally at the bottom. It’s better to have 2, in case the sofa is dragged by the back. For fastening to the spar, it is better to use unequal angles 60x40 with holes in a narrow flange, located in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued with foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely covered. It is impossible to leave the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work: it is unacceptable to insert the folds of the upholstery into the joint of the backrest and the support, and it will not be possible to cover it after installing the armrests.

Armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or framed like a backrest. They are also fully completed before installation. The load on them is less, so they are attached from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm with an envelope or a snake to the box, and 4-6 pieces to the support. in a row.

Armrests are most often made of frames complex shape. In fact, technologically they are not that complicated, pos. And in Fig. The decor on the inside reaches the bottom edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional. sheathing made of slats approximately 30x40 and liners made of boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The sheathing is cut into the backrest posts, and the inserts are fastened with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame made of 70x50 timber with at least 1 crossbar for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-timber insert and reinforced with self-tapping screws using glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars should be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see figure), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, in this case 50 mm of foam rubber disappears, but there is a significant advantage when covering it: staples/nails do not scratch the top of the drawer, and thanks to the extra bending, the covering of the sofa (the most loaded) lies more evenly and holds tighter.

Upholstery

The upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is done different ways, but they all have a common sore spot - corners. Form them with a fold, as in Fig. on the right is a common method, but therefore no better quality. According to GOST USSR, turned upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and sewing the corners of furniture fabrics is done in two ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second for those more susceptible to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But keep in mind that the numbers in Fig. approximate, fitting with sketch is required!

The covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (bends) of the scars are straightened special tool like a small shoehorn. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam; when sewing, it is folded back and left free.

Next comes tightening. If the corners have tongues, then the sheathing is leveled with them, and the tongues are secured. Then they pull the cover with a strong thread from the bottom along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, tightening the threads, achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is straightened with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as expected, fasten the edges with a distance of at least 5 cm from the edge of the fabric. If the type of product allows, fasten with a hem.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the drawer are upholstered as shown in Fig. The drawer is on 3 sides, the back remains open. This is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles with a height of approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press down the fabric. As a last resort, the sofa blank is placed on a couple of stools. It’s not possible to simply cover the back, because... it is already attached to the support. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of interface with the box, from under the bottom it is pulled on the trestles, like a sofa, and to tighten it from the sides, you will have to temporarily drive small nails into the support. Well, the armrests can be moved as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Individual cushions for a sofa are sewn in the same way as blocks of a frameless chair:

1. The foam mat is covered with technical fabric;
2. Sew the decorative cover inside out, leaving the final (lower back) seam unsewn;
3. 2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastened towards each other;
4. Insert the foam block into the decor and fasten the zippers.

Drawstrings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the seams between them. But a flat sofa does not harmonize with every design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with drawstrings, see fig. There are also 2 options available here, for lighter and denser fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn onto the edges of the cover under the drawstrings, and the drawstrings themselves are made when the cover is already secured. According to the 2nd option, the front scenes (tunnel sleeves) are sewn onto the workpiece under the cords and an even tension is achieved by alternately pulling the cords and the tension threads of the cover.

Beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is with decorative scars, see fig. You also need to sew wings under them, but it is better to fill them with flexible multi-core electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (can be vertical) wooden surface suitable size, even for the wall of a barn or doghouse.

The ends are stripped of 25-35 mm of insulation, twisted with British twist (British, shaved, see figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the inadvertently exposed wire core does not dig into a sensitive place, it is wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

A one-piece sofa cover is already the highest aerobatics in the wallpaper business. However, what if a shabby but strong sofa made of mahogany or Karelian birch appears in your grandmother’s attic? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect smart connoisseurs. If you talk to them knowledgeably, they will charge a moderate fee and will put their soul into the work.

In such a case, as they say in “1001 Nights”, know that the basis for tightening a one-piece cover is the lines where the sofa connects with the armrests and backrest. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. Cords are routed along bisectors flat angles(external) and triple (internal) trisectors along the grooves in wooden frame and, for triple angles, through holes in it. The cords are moderately stretched, their ends are secured and then the cover is straightened and pulled.

The drawstrings for the cords can be, depending on the design, front or back. The last case is the most difficult; the drawstring seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: generally a machine - the main problem when upholstering a sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check whether it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than No. 20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

What about simpler?

As you can see, making and upholstering a sofa is not a big deal. Isn’t it possible to do something quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, to a new apartment? To throw on any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called a sofa made of pallets. In general, a lot of things are made from construction pallets - pallets, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive, seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack from pallets can be made much more convenient by using the same principle garden chair Adirondack type, on the left in Fig. It’s a little more difficult to use them to build a rustic-style pull-out sofa bed in the center. And if you press harder (with a tool, not a glass), you can get a sofa that you can’t immediately tell is from a discarded container, on the right. For example, see what a sofa was made by a seemingly completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: DIY pallet sofa

This happens... with sofas...

Since we're talking about packaging, let's finish with a funny sofa. No comments are required, what is shown in Fig. speaks for itself. And it’s standing somewhere, they’re sitting on it, they’re lying...

The aesthetics of the furniture in the house determines the impression one gets of the entire room, so it is very important to keep it in good condition. refers to that functional part of it that is very often in use. In this regard, it quickly wears out and loses not only its attractiveness, but also performs its intended functions worse. However, in conditions of financial instability, which each of us faces from time to time, replacing it is not so easy.

But there is a way out! If you know how to work with certain tools, you can make anything yourself. This will not only save money, but also give you a truly unique and inimitable experience!

Kinds

Creating a sofa yourself is quite easy. But first of all, it’s worth deciding on its appearance and functionality. Depending on this, the design is selected. They are divided into non-folding and non-folding, but they are distinguished as follows:

• book;
• ;

• ;
• withdrawable;
• and others.

We offer you the most common and popular schemes. Also decide on the availability of storage space. Depending on how your structure will be laid out, it is worth purchasing special mechanisms.

Tools and materials

To make a sofa by hand, you will need certain tools. For work, it is best to use those devices that you have encountered not for the first time, or to practice. Before you start creating furniture, make sure you have the following tools with you:

• jigsaw;
• a hacksaw or grinder with a disk for wood;
• drill;

• ;
• construction stapler;
• and others.

The materials you will need to make such an important and large item depend on its type and functionality. But in any case, you need to purchase:

• ;
• cutting board;
• plywood of different thicknesses;
• upholstery fabric;
• foam;

• PVA glue;
• self-tapping screws;
• three-stage drill;
• Staples;
• and other.

The parameters and quantity depend directly on the model being manufactured. It is important that they are of high quality and environmentally friendly. When working with wood, pay attention to the quality of sanding. It's best to do it yourself. When choosing glue and varnish, do not buy materials containing toxic substances.

Fixed

The classic canapé is beautiful upholstered furniture that cannot be transformed. You can easily come up with its design yourself. The drawing and assembly diagram of the model can be viewed below. They consist of:

• legs;
• seats:
• soft back;
• armrests.

The legs are made of timber or purchased ready-made in the store - plastic, iron or other material. It is necessary to knock down a rectangle with a lid made of boards or chipboard, and then screw the legs as indicated in the diagram. At the back, attach a beam or board covered with fiberboard, or a sheet of chipboard.

To make the product soft, we attach the foam rubber with PVA glue. Next, which is secured with a stapler on the back side of the structure.

For the past, chipboard is best suited. In this case, it is enough to simply cut out a piece of the required size, which will be placed on the short sides. It is covered with foam rubber. It is important that the top of the sheet overlaps the bend of the sheet. The next layer is the upholstery fabric. It is fixed at the junction of the frame with the base.

If you want to make a more functional model, you should use a different scheme. A U-shaped fragment is assembled from boards or chipboard. Halves of moving mechanisms are attached inside, parts of which are attached to the separately assembled box, which allows it to function easily and correctly. The seating area is installed on top of the base. The rear part of the structure is also attached to it. Cover it all with foam rubber and fabric, as in the first case, or lay it down.

You decide for yourself whether to attach the armrest. True, it is worth noting that its presence can add functionality if it is rectangular in shape with a wide top and, unlike the side and end sides, is not covered with upholstery. In this case, the armrest can play the role of conveniently placing a book or a cup of tea on it.

Decoration methods

It is important that the furniture is not only functional, but also attractive. appearance. The main role in decoration is played by the choice of upholstery fabric. Today there is a wide variety of products on the market, among which the most common are.

A sofa is that piece of furniture without which it is impossible to imagine any home. There is a place for it in any apartment, even the smallest one. Choosing one in a store will not be difficult; the range of products offered by furniture manufacturers can satisfy everyone’s needs. But how to make a sofa with your own hands? This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, and the result will be excellent if you follow certain rules.

You can make such a piece of furniture based on information available on the Internet, for example, a master class with video instructions; this will be a great help for beginners. A homemade sofa will always be distinguished by creativity and originality. After all, you can make it yourself from scrap materials, and at the same time create a unique thing. But first, you need to decide which type of sofa is more convenient for a particular room, what sofas are made of, and what is needed to make it.

Sofas can be divided according to the following parameters:

1. By design
2. By transformation type
3. By purpose

• Design features

By design, sofas can be straight, corner and island.

Direct options are suitable for all rooms - these are classics. Corner ones are practical. A corner sofa will not take up much space, it can easily fit into small apartment. The island sofa has a rounded shape and is installed in large rooms where it will occupy a central place. Such mini sofas look especially advantageous near the windowsill, where they look like small islands of light and meditation.

• Types of transformation

Book. This is the most popular mechanism. A sofa book is usually used as sleeping place, as well as for daily relaxation. To turn it into a bed for sleeping, you need to raise the seat until it clicks and lower it.

Eurobook. It is very easy to unfold this type of sofa. You need to pull the seat towards you and lower the backrest into the empty space. Most often, the box under the sofa is used for bedding, which is important in small apartments.

Click-clack. This is a relatively new, improved type of transformation of a sofa-book. It allows you to choose different positions backrest, setting it at a certain degree. In some models, the side parts can also be modified and turned into headrests and armrests.

Accordion. One of the most simple options unfolding. It is enough to push the seat forward, after which the other two parts will fall, forming a flat surface. An accordion sofa will fit perfectly into a small apartment, because it does not require much space.

Dolphin. This type unfolds simply - you need to pull out the block under the seat, then move it up and pull out its second part. This type of sofa is universal, it is suitable for both cramped and spacious spaces.

Telescope. This method of transformation is also called roll-out. They called it that because when unfolded, all its parts slide out from one another, forming a comfortable sleeping place.

Puma. The principle of this mechanism is simple: the front part moves forward and is installed on a support, and the second part of the sofa rises to the free space. This type is very compact and saves space.

Cot. To unfold a sofa of this type you just need to pull a special loop, it will unfold like a scroll.

Lit. The lit mechanism is most often used for children's sofas. It turns into a regular bed with an easy movement. Its back remains in one position, and the seat serves as a berth. The armrests transform at different angles.

• Purpose of sofas

Sofas can be used in a wide variety of rooms and conditions, so they are grouped by purpose as follows:

1. Office - can be installed in the reception area, manager’s office, break room
2. For the living room - place it against the wall, in the middle of the room or at the windowsill so that natural light falls when reading a book
3. For cafes and restaurants
4. For a children's room (for relaxation, for sleeping)
5. Kitchen
6. For the hallway (compact, low)

Why such distinctions? In order to optimally select the mechanism and upholstery material. A child's room needs a practical, non-staining material and an easy way to transform it. Furniture that will act as a window sill does not require a backrest. The office can be equipped with inexpensive furniture with wear-resistant upholstery. To emphasize the status of the room, sofas are made to order from solid wood (the so-called Stalin sofa), with carved trim. Properly selected for its intended purpose, this piece of furniture will last much longer and will support general style premises.

Filling

Before you start making a sofa with your own hands, you need to know its components. It’s easy to guess what the sofa consists of:

• wooden frame
• foam rubber of various thicknesses
• springs (optional)
• special furniture fabric
• accessories (legs, fastenings, mechanisms)

What the sofa will be made of when assembling it yourself can be decided based on your budget. Valuable wood and carvings are not affordable for everyone, so it’s worth paying attention to more affordable options. For example, for the remains of various building materials, from which you can build new item furniture and get rid of the old sofa.

We do it ourselves

Having decided on the purpose of the future furniture and its mechanisms, you can begin to manufacture it. To assemble a sofa with your own hands, you need to adhere to the following plan:

Stage 1. Preparing tools. To work you will need:

• jigsaw or wood saw
• screwdriver
• furniture stapler
• sander or plane
• hammer
• sharp scissors and knife
• sewing machine
• roulette

In addition, you should stock up on basic materials:

• bars
• plywood, chipboard
• boards
• furniture foam rubber
• padding polyester or batting
• upholstery fabric
• wood glue
• self-tapping screws
• pencil

Stage 2. Frame assembly. The production of any furniture begins with its frame. The frame of the sofa can be of various shapes and sizes, but for production at home you should not choose too complex configurations.

Let's look at an example of how to make a sofa for a country house like a Eurobook, the simplest sofa with your own hands. The design of a sofa of this type will not cause any difficulties even for beginners in carpentry.

The frame is based on boards that will provide the necessary strength to the product. The rigidity of the structure will be given by thick plywood or chipboard sheets with which it is sheathed. The frame remains hollow inside, which makes the construction easier.

You can make a frame using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, which should first be coated with wood glue for greater strength. If you have leftover material from construction, you can make a sofa from timber. That is, as load-bearing structure timber will be used. A more original and durable frame - made of profile pipes, but working with this material requires additional tools and skills.

View all 11 episodes of making a sofa on our website

First we make the bottom drawer from boards. To do this, you will need two boards (1.9 m and 0.8 m), 2.5 cm thick and 20 cm wide, and 4 bars 20 cm long. Having knocked down the box, it is reinforced with transverse slats and the bottom is sheathed with a sheet of plywood or chipboard .

The frame of the seat and back are rectangles made of bars with a section of 40*60. Slats are attached to the finished parts, which will support the mattress.

You can make armrests for the sofa at your own discretion, or abandon them altogether. They are also made from bars and covered with plywood. Their shape depends only on the ability to handle the material and tools.

Stage 3. Assembly. When all the main frame elements are ready, you can begin assembling them. The Eurobook requires special mechanisms, which are sold in furniture fittings stores. They need to be fastened so that there is a gap of 1 cm between the seat and the backrest in the unfolded position. The sharp corners of the structure are sanded.

Stage 4. Laying foam rubber. At this stage, the structure needs to be laid out and the foam rubber cut to size, cutting out small corners on both sides at the junction of the backrest and the seat. Foam rubber is glued to the frame elements. To increase the level of comfort, you can use a foam layer that can consist of several parts of different thicknesses and densities. Too much soft sofa not very comfortable for sleeping, this also needs to be taken into account.

Stage 5. Upholstery. For it, you should choose durable material; it is sold in a wide variety in fabric stores. The side seams need to be stitched, the edges folded and secured to the frame with a furniture stapler. For complex structures You can order a cover from a furniture manufacturer.

Store-bought versions of sofas may not always be suitable for a specific interior; in this case, making one yourself is simple and affordable option. Thanks to him family budget will be saved and original design will surprise and delight friends and family. On a good-quality and spacious sofa, precious minutes of relaxation will become even more enjoyable.

The sofa is one of the most important elements interior of any apartment or house. It should be comfortable and beautiful, durable and resistant to stains, especially if there are small children in the family. What to do if the products presented in the store cannot satisfy all your wishes, and buying a sofa created according to your order does not fit into the family budget? For a real man who knows a lot about carpentry, the answer is obvious: create a sofa with your own hands. Drawings and diagrams of a homemade piece of furniture can be very diverse, as well as its shape, texture and color of the upholstery. We'll tell you how to make your dream come true and make a sofa yourself without spending any money.

Several arguments for motivation in favor of making a sofa with your own hands:

1. Not a bad cost savings. However, we urge you not to put savings at the expense of quality. In cases where you are not sure of the result, use the services of professionals.
2. The design of such a piece of furniture will be created specifically for your interior. According to your sizes and dimensions.
3. A sofa made by yourself will always be made with high quality, because... it is you who are responsible for this aspect.
4. Can be used for making quality wood, environmentally friendly and reliable upholstery materials. Modern fittings will give the sofa a “professional” feel.
5. Repair of such furniture is carried out at a time, because... it is much easier to do if you know where and how everything works. ​
6. By assembling a sofa yourself, you will enjoy the creative process, satisfaction from the result and, of course, increased self-esteem.
7. This is enough to get started.

If you already have a suitable project in mind, feel free to get to work. The first thing that will come in handy is a drawing of the sofa with all the necessary dimensions, as well as assembly diagrams. Drawings and diagrams can be found on the Internet or, if you have certain skills, you can create them yourself. Unfortunately, there are no ready-made programs for designing upholstered furniture, and this would greatly simplify the life of modern DIYers. We offer a number of common ideas and popular sofa shapes that can be slightly modified to suit your needs.

DIY corner sofa

The corner modular sofa is a very comfortable thing. It is large enough to seat all guests. In addition, it can transform depending on your mood. If you place a drawer or roll-out drawer on wheels in it, you can also get additional storage space.

Here's what you'll need to make this sofa:

• jigsaw;
• sander;
• electric drill;
• stapler for furniture;
• sewing machine (if you decide to sew a sofa cover yourself);
• screwdriver;
• Chipboard (thickness from 12 mm);
• wooden bars with a cross section of 30x50 mm;
• plywood (from 5 mm thick);
• cotton fabric for the back;
• metal corners, self-tapping screws;
• upholstery fabric;
• foam rubber or other filler for stuffing (holofiber, batting, coconut fiber);
• spring blocks;
• necessary fittings (for example, legs).

The list of materials depends on the result you would like to receive upon completion of the work.

Advice! Do not use nails to assemble parts. Such a connection will quickly become loose, and the sofa will creak and lose its shape.

The work order is as follows:

1. At the base of each module there is a frame made of chipboard (MDF or furniture board, at your discretion) and bars. The parts are fastened together with corners and self-tapping screws. It is preferable to pre-drill holes at the joints for screwing in self-tapping screws, which will protect the material from delamination. The bottom is covered with a sheet of thin material (plywood, fiberboard).

1. The finished box is covered with chipboard on top. There are options here. You can secure the stove completely, or you can use hinges to create a storage box. The sofa modules can, at your discretion, have hinged lids or be tightly closed.
2. The next step is to form the back. The ends of the back are fastened to the front part. Fiberboard is mounted at the back and covered with cotton fabric using a furniture stapler.

1. The back is covered with foam rubber or other filler, the ends of which are secured with a stapler. The same should be done with the outer side parts of the sofa. In the future, a cover will be pulled over the top. It can be made independently or to order.

1. The listed manipulations should be performed with all modules of the sofa.

Advice! Before assembling, make all the parts of the sofa, sand them with a grinder or sandpaper, and also treat special means to protect against mold and insects.

1. You can decorate such a sofa with pillows or other means at your discretion.

Sofa upholstery

To create soft parts, the main material, as a rule, is foam rubber (density 35 kg/m3) in two layers. Foam rubber must be covered with non-woven material in order to avoid possible friction between the decorative covering and the base, as well as sticking, sliding and the formation of folds on the final covering of the sofa.

The upholstery of the sofa deserves special consideration. You can simplify the work and cover it with folds of fabric at the corners.

However, this is unreliable and short-lived. You should make a cover with sewn corners. This is one of the reasons in favor of a custom case. If you are not sure that you will succeed, trust the professionals, this will save time and money.

Use foam mats to make pillows. Covers for them are traditionally sewn inside out. A zipper (hidden) is sewn into the last unsewn seam for easy removal and washing of the cover.

Pallet sofa

In order not to waste time making the frame of the sofa, you can use it for these purposes. wooden pallets. They make simply designer things and, it should be noted, not only sofas.

DIY sofa from a used bathtub

Not only wooden pallets can serve as a semi-finished product for a sofa. The main thing is your inspiration and creativity. For example, an excellent sofa can be made from outdated cast iron bath(you can also use steel). Don’t rush to throw it away, let’s see what it’s good for.

If you have an old bathtub, remove the legs and clean the surface of the paint. Cut one of the walls figuratively with a grinder. The cuts will need to be carefully sanded. Cover what comes out with the dye of the required shade. The legs, which have been cleaned, sanded and painted separately, are attached at the very end. All that remains is to build a soft seat from available materials and decorate the sofa.

How do you like this turn of events? This is what it looks like.

If you think that a sofa can be extremely complex and pretentious, then we hasten to dissuade you. Even the most simple design will amaze with its sophistication and, most importantly, individuality. In any case, you will amaze your guests and household members.

Thus, it is possible to make a sofa with your own hands, and in some cases, even necessary. If you have at least minimal skills as a carpenter and joiner, designer and seamstress, then you definitely have no reason to refuse to realize your dream. We hope we've done everything we need to get inspired. It's up to you!

Have you ever wondered whether it is possible to make an ordinary sofa at home, i.e. on our own? At first glance, such a question will seem unusual to us, since in any furniture store You can choose a suitable sofa for every taste and color. But if you think a little about, for example, what you will have to put from furniture for sitting in the same rest room in the bathhouse or on the country veranda, then the original question about a homemade sofa in country house won't seem so strange. In this article we will tell you how to make a sofa with your own hands from auxiliary materials.

Sofa made of timber

One of the options self-made The construction of a sofa in the country involves the use of timber for its construction, small trimmings of which are often left after the completion of the construction of utility rooms. In addition to these blanks, you may also need the following material for work:

• sheets of foam rubber, sold today in any specialized store;
• zip fastener 210 cm long, used to make the cover;
• three zippers of 70 cm each, used for making pillows;
• any material like tapestry;
• metal corner;
• metal mesh.

The main work on assembling a sofa at home should begin with the construction of the base (supporting frame) of the structure, for the assembly of which we use the timber mentioned above. A block measuring 70x210 cm can be very convenient for making a frame; in this case, the supporting legs for our frame can also be made from four small sections of this timber.

The second step towards achieving our goal is to make a reliable sofa backrest. Since initially this design option involves avoiding unnecessary design complications (not trying to make something like a folding system), we make the backrest according to the same scheme in which the frame base of the sofa was made. Such a frame back must be sufficiently rigidly fixed to the base using thick-walled metal corners. Optimal angle You will choose the tilt of the resulting backrest to your own taste, but the main thing is that it does not turn out to be very steep (to avoid a feeling of discomfort).

At the next stage of our work, we will try to mount a support grid on the frame of the sofa, which would hold the seat cushions. For these purposes, the armored mesh from the metal beds that our grandfathers used is quite suitable (I was convinced from my own experience that if you want, it is quite possible to find such a mesh even today). After securely attaching such a mesh to a wooden base (using ordinary metal staples), you get exactly what you need. Just remember to embed the mesh into longitudinal beams the frame has four transverse bars (the insertion is best done using the groove-to-tenon method with a special glue).

Let's now move on to manufacturing soft upholstery for our design.

After this, we stuff three large pillows with foam rubber scraps, the covers for which are also made from pieces of tapestry sewn together with zippers.

Sofa made from ready-made panels

If you are not skilled enough in handling wood and other materials, you are offered another way to make a sofa on your own. To make it you will need:

• two old door leaves;
• metal staples;
• tree stumps;
• foam;
• textile.

As the base and back of the proposed simplified design, two out-of-date sashes are taken wooden doors. All you need to do with them is just to clean them from dirt and process them using grinding.

Then you should cover them with several layers of paint, the color and texture of which are chosen arbitrarily (or to match the interior of the room where your sofa will be located). It is possible to finish the surface of the doors with wood-like veneer.

Firmly fix one of the sashes to the wooden stumps of a suitable size and attach the back (second door) to it using metal brackets.

Then you can start making a mattress, for which the foam rubber cut to fit the seat should be covered with some strong and rough fabric (calico or matting, for example). The top of such a seat can be covered with high-quality fabric with an unusual color. Then lay the finished mattress on the base of the structure and place several small pillows on it.

An improvised sofa of this type can fit well not only into the interior of your country veranda, but can also decorate any other country corner.

You probably noticed that the basis for independent arrangement of the sofa product options we have considered is the production of a reliable and strong load-bearing base (frame). This fact allows us to conclude that any other material that satisfies the specified basic conditions can be chosen as a base.