How to assemble a sliding wardrobe yourself from ready-made fittings. Self-assembly of a cabinet How to assemble a 4-door cabinet

The closet plays an important role in any interior. It is not surprising that strict requirements are imposed on it: not to take up too much space, to be spacious, to have a sufficient number of shelves and drawers. The models on the market do not always fully satisfy individual wishes.

For owners of apartments with non-standard layouts, it can be even more difficult to choose an option that fits into the room. In this case, you can order a cabinet from specialists who will take into account all your wishes regarding the design and internal contents.

Unfortunately, this option is not affordable for everyone. Then the best solution the problem will be the use own hands and ingenuity, because assembling a cabinet yourself is not at all difficult!

Preparatory stage

Each room has its own type of construction, so it’s worth familiarizing yourself with the main ones.

A cabinet with a closed front is a straight model with hinged doors. To open them, you need to provide additional space; do not forget about this if you are making a closet for the hallway.

A cabinet with an open front has no doors, and its contents are in plain sight. It makes certain demands on order.

The wardrobe doors are mounted on a rail mechanism and open, moving to the sides. There are designs with top and bottom rails; which one to choose is a matter of taste.

Ideal design for built-in wardrobes

A corner cabinet fills a corner. Suitable for any size room, as long as it is square or similar in shape.

Having chosen a suitable design, you can begin to create a project for the future cabinet. Since this piece of furniture lasts for many years, it is worth considering what functionality may be required from it. It is better to build a drawing on whatman paper, recording all measurements there.

Decide on the location and dimensions of the cabinet. If there is a niche in the room - ideal, but if it is not possible to build it in, choose a place where nothing will interfere with it.

Think it over internal filling: location and number of shelves and drawers, their sizes, additional elements like mezzanines or interior lighting.

Do not forget about the choice of external decoration and decorations. The colors “oak”, “alder”, “beech” are the most popular today. Or you can choose wood with an interesting pattern and leave the original pattern. Get creative and decorate the doors with a carved pattern.

Materials

The material can be natural wood, plywood, MDF or chipboard - all of them are used by furniture manufacturers.

Wood is environmentally friendly, does not require additional decorations, and is convenient to work with. Wooden cabinet will last for many years and will look solid and impressive. Ideal choice for interior in classic style.

Plywood consists of glued veneer sheets (birch or trees are used coniferous species). This cheap, practical material is suitable for making almost any furniture. It is best to choose laminated plywood (FOF brand).

Chipboard (chipboard) is the cheapest and most common option. When assembling your own closet, this is usually what you use. Short-lived.

Self-adhesive melamine film is also useful for processing the side edges.

The diameter of the rod must be at least 22 mm. The easiest way is to buy it in a specialized store. You can also buy pens there.

Tools

Ruler, tape measure, pencil and others for taking measurements and drawing.
Level.
Jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting.
Screwdriver or drill and screwdriver.
Glue.
Ratchet key.
Iron for gluing the edging film.
Accessories. Each door opening mechanism has its own kit.
Confirmations for the cabinet from Chipboard is better buy 7 cm long with a diameter of 0.5 cm.

Progress

First of all, measurements are taken and a drawing of the future cabinet is constructed. The final result depends on a correctly drawn up drawing, so approach it with all seriousness.

It’s not difficult to make cabinet doors with your own hands, the main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions. If its vertical height is less than the height of the opening, the door will not completely close it, and if it is more, it will not fit. When finding the horizontal dimension, we must not forget about the fastening elements: they will add a few millimeters to it. The width of the doors should be ~3 mm less than the opening.

Now you need to mark the placement of the fastening bolts on the sawn parts and drill all the holes.

Assembly begins with installing the bottom and attaching the walls to it. Make sure that the assembled cabinet fits into the allocated space and that other furniture will not interfere with the opening of the doors. If you are making a wardrobe, the guides are installed at this stage.

The location of drawers and shelves is outlined, shelf supports and guides are installed. They must be strictly parallel to avoid distortion.

It's time to install the top shelves and roof. A gap of ~7 cm is left between the ceiling and roof for the installation of confirmations. Fastening is done manually and finally tightened with a ratchet wrench.

The side shelves are attached to 4 confirmata (two on each side); in some cases, dowels (small wooden cylinders) are used. One end of the dowel is inserted into the cabinet wall, and a shelf is put on the other.

The last step is to install the doors. Before installation, attach the handles with the curve outward. For sliding doors, proper installation of the mechanism is especially important. Take your time, act carefully.

It's time to start finishing touches. Treat the sections with decorative film and decorate the facade. Install mirrors, interior lighting and other elements.

Tricks and nuances

Rely on existing cabinet designs when designing yours.

A corner cabinet requires more care in design and assembly than a straight cabinet, so it may be too complicated for an inexperienced person.

If you lack experience, it is better to entrust cutting out the parts to a master. His hand will not tremble, and the cuts will be smooth and neat.

To avoid getting a part smaller than needed, consider the thickness of the saw. The wall thickness must be at least 18 mm. Otherwise, the strength of the structure will be insufficient.

While working on the drawing, pay attention to the curvature of the floor. If the floor is not level, gaps may appear between the doors. To avoid this, adjust the installation awnings for a swing mechanism, and change the height of the wheels for a sliding mechanism.

Guides for sliding doors should be parallel. Be extremely careful when marking and installing guides for drawers and shelves.

Drill holes for confirmations symmetrically. Use the correct size drill bit. The exact number of confirmations depends on the number of parts. The confirmations are covered with plugs matching the color of the structure.

Installing a mirror begins with installing a seal around the perimeter. The film is glued to the chipboard slices using an iron. Iron it with a cloth, pressing it as tightly as possible. The edges can be trimmed with a regular knife.

Study photos of handmade cabinets: you will get a charge of inspiration and note interesting ideas for yourself.

We hope our tips helped answer the question of how to make a cabinet with your own hands.

Photos of do-it-yourself cabinets

Modern interior designs most often include the use of built-in appliances and furniture (cabinets, beds, tables, etc.). This solution helps to significantly save space even in the smallest apartment or house. Built-in wardrobes of various models, made from natural and artificial materials(plastic with metal frame, real tree). If you are renovating an apartment/house yourself, then you just need to know how to properly assemble a wardrobe yourself, without involving specialists. After reading the article, you will learn how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands (video and written step-by-step instructions), the advantages of this type of furniture, as well as some of the features of placing cabinets in a room.

Advantages of sliding wardrobes

The characteristics of such furniture, which are undoubtedly its advantages, can be depicted in a table:

Advantage	Description
Compact and spacious	In such a closet you will place twice as much clothes without the expense of the enormity of the furniture itself.
Possibility of conveniently placing a closet in the room different sizes and shapes	Some models of wardrobes can be transformed to suit the features of the room: the presence of a corridor, recesses in the wall where the wardrobe can be placed.
Room zoning	With the help of a wardrobe you will visually divide different zones in a room, for example, a working room from a recreation area.
Sliding door mechanism	To open the closet, you don't need to remove chairs or move other furniture
Convenient assembly and disassembly of the cabinet with your own hands	Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands is quite easy and anyone can do it simply by following the instructions.
Beautiful design	Compared to conventional furniture, built-in compartments are distinguished by a variety of shapes and a palette of colors. A huge selection of shades and color combinations, various designs and thematic images will give the room in which the compartment is located a special character and mood.

Why do you need knowledge and skills on how to assemble a wardrobe yourself?

You can easily assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own hands if you follow the step-by-step instructions. This will not only save you money and time, but you will also learn how to assemble a sliding wardrobe yourself and disassemble it whenever necessary. Also, if you have started remodeling an apartment/house, knowing how to assemble a wardrobe yourself will help you easily and quickly resolve the issue of moving this furniture. You will be able to help your family and friends with the assembly and disassembly of wardrobes, which will do them a huge service. The main “steps” for assembling sliding wardrobes with your own hands are indicated in the instructions, and clear example You can watch this process in the video.

What tools will you need to assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own hands?

To assemble/disassemble a wardrobe with your own hands at any time, you need the following set of tools:

level: regular or laser (to avoid problems with measurements)
angle - for the correct placement of parts in relation to each other, strictly perpendicular
hammers: regular (driving dowels into walls) and rubber (to align cabinet parts “standing” next to each other)
screwdrivers with a flat and Phillips nose for screwing in self-tapping screws
tape measure, marker and pencil for markings
hex wrench (for working with confermates)
sandpaper for sanding
iron to glue melamine edges to the open surfaces of the ends of the panels
electric drill with wide functionality
To screw in screws, you will need different attachments for a “bit” type drill to save time and not screw in screws with screwdrivers
35mm wood drill and counterbore
special drills for working on metal (for 2-10 mm)
Victory drill bit 1 cm to make holes in walls
jigsaw (preferably powered by electricity) 600 kW, for quickly filing coupe parts)

Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The optimal option for assembling cabinets different models There is not just one method, since the difference in design requires different approaches to assembling and disassembling built-in furniture. How to assemble a classic type coupe is indicated in the following instructions.

Preparatory stage.

You need to familiarize yourself with all the details of the product (so as not to confuse anything during the assembly process and not have to start all over again), prepare the tools and the place where the assembly and installation will take place. Any furniture is assembled in a horizontal position.

The first stage is assembling the podium (base and legs).

On the part that is the bottom of the cabinet, we make markings at right angles (confirmations) so as to ensure optimal emphasis over the entire area. We mount the base with dowels and minifixes, then hammer in the support nails. If there is a baseboard, it will need to be trimmed as the podium needs to fit very tightly against the back wall.

The second stage is to install the side parts of the cabinet (if this model has them).

Initially, it is necessary to trim the sides so that they fit smoothly and tightly against the back wall (it is advisable to even sand the back walls of the ends). To place the side parts perfectly vertically, use a level.

If the coupe model does not have side parts and is designed to be placed between walls, then at this stage you need to make a marking under which the shelves will be attached, also using a level. Using a hammer drill, we make holes in the walls (below the level markings), insert fasteners into them and secure the corners. We place shelves on the corners and also secure them. Next, we install the rear racks at the level of the shelves.

The third stage is the installation of drawers and rods.

We install guides on the drawers, retreating from the edge by 10-15 cm, since in most models of sliding wardrobes the drawers are made with inset facades. We attach the response mechanism to the side panels. We install facades. We fix the bar on which clothes will be hung on hangers until the installation of the drawers is completed.

The fourth stage is installing the door.

We take measurements of the cabinet from the inside and mark the levels of fastening of the guides on the floor (podium) and the top panel. Before fixing the floor guide, we also insert a stopper into the holes of the marks to secure the door when closing.

We begin installing the door by fixing the guides - the top one needs to be raised a little and lowered onto the bottom. We adjust the rollers at the bottom through the end holes. That's it, the door is installed.

The final stage.

Attaching hooks to the outside on the side panels, if this is included in the cabinet design, as well as cleaning the furniture collection area. After this, you can safely place all the necessary clothes in the compartment without fear that something will fall off the furniture or clothing will be damaged - if you followed the instructions, such cases are not expected.

For each wardrobe model, the manufacturer provides an assembly diagram, so if you are not sure that you are performing the assembly steps correctly, check the diagram periodically. In addition, there are many demonstration lessons on how to assemble a wardrobe: videos, audio materials, etc. You can also consult an experienced specialist if you have problems with measurements and the right choice product placement locations.

High-quality built-in furniture always fits well into the interior, so before you start collecting, decide on the place in the apartment where it (the furniture) will stand. Take advantage of the knowledge you acquired after reading this article, additional information materials, and the services of specialist consultants and easily assemble or disassemble cabinets of any model with your own hands.

Today, you can easily use professional furniture assembly services. But some people want to do everything themselves, and the point here is not even the cost, but curiosity and interest. We'll tell you how to assemble a cabinet yourself in our article.

How to assemble a cabinet with your own hands

Young families often have to solve problems related to the furnishings of their “nest”. Sometimes the situation is further complicated by the lack of funds to purchase new furniture. In addition, the small size of the living space forces you to think through the placement of all interior elements in advance.

You can cope with this problem if you assemble a closet with your own hands - this way you will get a place to store existing things that will suit you in size.

If you prepare for the process (buy tools and materials in advance), you can easily assemble the cabinet yourself. You don't need professional skills for this.

It is easier to assemble a cabinet if you divide the entire production activity into several stages. The work consists of a set of sequential activities:

Circuit design.

Preparation necessary tools.

Buying parts and giving them the desired shape and size.

Assembly of the structure.

Before assembling the cabinet, you should prepare tools that may be useful during the process:

electric drill - for tightening screws and drilling holes;

hammer - you will use it to hammer in dowels;

building level;

a simple pencil - for taking measurements and making marks;

glue – useful for gluing pile;

a hacksaw for wood, which will allow you to fit all the parts to required sizes;

a lot of screws and dowels.

Initially, it is necessary to check the quality of every detail of the future design. The surfaces must be free of blisters, cracks, scratches and other defects. Please take precautions when transporting cabinet parts. All components should be securely fastened to the car body.

Before assembling the cabinet, you need to draw up a sketch and decide on the location of the structure. Here you need to focus on personal preferences and the availability of free space. In most cases, cabinets are located in a closet, in the corner of a room, or near a wall.

The standard height to length ratio is 1.62. That is, if the ceiling height is 3 m, the optimal cabinet length is 185 cm (300/1.62 = 185.1). Cabinet parts can have a depth of 40, 50 or 60 cm. Of course, you can assemble a cabinet of completely different depths, but it is worth considering that too great importance This parameter makes the use of furniture not very convenient.

Having chosen a suitable location, you can begin to draw up a sketch, which is detailed diagram with a picture of all the elements of the future cabinet. It can be prepared manually on paper or using computer programs Excel and Basis. The advantage of the latest program is the ability to calculate the size and quantity of all parts that will need to be cut.

Example of filling a cabinet

Chipboard is most often used to make shelves. The shelves are fastened using self-tapping screws and corners.

Before starting the assembly process, you need to prepare the necessary materials. You can order cutting and edge processing of parts at the place where you will purchase them.

In order to assemble a structure measuring 1.5x2.4 m, you will need:

three horizontal parts 1.5×0.6 m;

two vertical parts 2×0.6 m (cabinet walls);

one partition 1.35×0.6 m;

three partitions for shelves measuring 0.325 × 0.6 m, which will be installed vertically;

one sheet for a shelf with dimensions 1.5 × 0.3 m;

three partitions for a shelf 0.3×0.4 m.

The main task at this stage is to calculate the number of parts and their sizes without errors. If the sketch is not drawn up accurately, there is a risk of buying the wrong amount of materials that will be needed.

How to assemble a cabinet: sequence of actions

First you need to install a 1.5x0.6 m board on the floor and attach two side elements to it. If there is a plinth on the floor, it is better to remove it so that the side parts do not need to be adjusted to fit it. It is better to use dowels to fasten parts. They allow you to securely attach elements to the cabinet wall.

To attach the remaining elements to the bottom board, screws and metal corners are useful. In some cases, shelves are installed using plastic corners, but fasteners made of such material are less reliable.

The next step is to assemble the shelves inside the cabinet: to vertical part and the three transverse compartments are joined by two boards, which are placed in a horizontal position.
The compartments are secured in a similar way - using self-tapping screws and metal corners. If it is possible to get close to the walls, which are located on the side, then the fastening elements can be Euroscrews.
The upper outer shelves are attached. Three vertical partitions of the structure are attached to a horizontal board with dimensions of 1.5 × 3 m. The frequency of fastening the partitions is 0.5 m.

If you want to assemble a floor-to-ceiling cabinet yourself, you may have difficulty securing the top cover.

You need to leave some space at the top to insert the hexagon. Alternative option consists of attaching the cabinet lid to metal corners from the inside.

This way you can get two hanger compartments in which you can place outerwear, dresses and shirts. On one side of the cabinet there will be a shelf, and the other side will be divided into three small compartments.

How to assemble a wardrobe

Is it possible to assemble a wardrobe yourself? To do this it is necessary to determine correct order actions. The first step is to check the integrity of the package - whether all cabinet parts have been delivered. You should have at your disposal several boxes of chipboard (at least two), doors and packaging with hardware.

Please note that hardware and other additional parts may be packaged with chipboard. When accepting cabinet parts, carefully check the contents of the boxes and inventory, since there are often cases when suppliers “forget” to include some items.

In order to assemble a wardrobe, you will need a set of the following tools:

Phillips screwdriver PH2;

hex wrench with edge width 5 mm (L-shaped);

tape measures (or rulers);

level (optional);

drills and drill bits with a diameter of 5 mm.

A screwdriver with bits (hexagonal and Phillips) will help to significantly speed up the work, but, of course, you can assemble the cabinet without it.

It is quite difficult to assemble a cabinet alone, so before starting work we recommend finding an assistant so that you have someone to ask to hold the part or hand over the tool. Before you start assembling the cabinet, you should remove all the parts from the packaging material and arrange the boards according to size. This way you can immediately determine the purpose of each element.

Each panel has characteristic holes, so it is almost impossible to assemble the parts incorrectly.

There are three chipboard connection schemes:

using confirmed screws;

using eccentric couplers (minifixes);

with the addition of wooden dowels (chops) to one of the above methods.

The connections differ from each other by characteristic holes that can be found on the plane and at the ends of the boards. The use of confirmations requires the presence of two types of holes:

In one part - through, in a plane with a diameter of 7 mm.

In the second part there is a blind part, with a diameter of 4.5 or 5 mm.

The same number of holes is made for eccentric couplers:

In one part there is a blind part, in a plane with a diameter of 5 mm, into which the minifix rod is screwed.

The second part has a hole at the end (8 mm), connected to a recess in the plane with a diameter of 15 mm for the clamping cylinder.

For dowels, blind holes are made both at the end and in the plane with the same diameter of 8–10 mm.

Pay attention to the set of hardware from your cabinet; by their presence, you can determine the type of connections and the sequence of assembly of parts.

Remember also that the front side (end) of the boards is edge-glued, while the back side (where the fiberboard is nailed) remains bare. This will help you assemble the cabinet correctly, including the correct placement of shelves, lintels and sides.

Determining the purpose of the panels

Carry out a thorough inspection of all parts so as not to miss blind holes and additional markings. Initially, you need to install the bottom - the bottom of the wardrobe.

There are two types of bottom: with adjustable legs and without them. If legs are attached to the bottom, then the bottom can be easily determined by the presence of blind or through holes with a diameter of about 10 mm into which they are inserted. Sometimes the legs are not inserted into the holes, but are installed using screws (in this case, the bottom of the cabinet will have corresponding markings).

The cabinet bottom without legs has a different design. It is based on side panels and special strips (plinths) 50–100 mm wide, which are located along the perimeter of the surface and prevent it from collapsing under the weight of the cabinet elements. A design feature of this bottom is additional holes for dowels for attaching the base.

Having set aside the bottom of the cabinet, you can also immediately remove the roof (top panel). Its size will be similar to the parameters of the bottom, only with fewer holes.

Finding the side frames is also usually not difficult - these are the longest parts with holes for attaching shelves on one side. The internal vertical jumpers are shorter than the side walls and have characteristic holes at the ends, which are intended for confirmations or dowels.

In order to separate the shelves from the rest of the cabinet, you just need to select boards of the same (small) size, which are glued only on one (front) side. Sliding wardrobes are almost never equipped with overhead shelves, so they must have at least two holes at the ends on both sides.

The design of a wardrobe often includes two additional large shelves. One is installed below as a stand for shoes, and the other at the top is used as a mezzanine. The dimensions of both elements are identical.

If the closet has drawers, then their components are quite easy to find - these are boards with the smallest dimensions (the width of the boards is about 120 mm).

Rules for installing various hardware

Those who want to assemble a cabinet with their own hands often have a question: do they need to glue the wooden dowels? It should be understood that if you glue them, you won’t be able to disassemble the cabinet if necessary (during moving or renovation) without damaging the fasteners. The use of glue does not make the structure more rigid or durable, so gluing is advisable in cases where the connection is made only with dowels, without the use of screws or minifixes.

How to install dowels correctly? They are hammered exclusively into holes on the plane and in no case chipboard end, since the board may crack when connected. It is recommended to insert dowels by hand or using rubber mallet. It is also possible to use a metal hammer, but you need to work very carefully so as not to pierce the panel through the dowel.

The minifix rods are screwed in with a Phillips screwdriver. A screwdriver is not very suitable for these purposes, since you can easily turn it in the hole and fixing the connections will be unreliable. Once the panels are connected and the rods are in the holes, the eccentric discs can be inserted. This makes it easier to assemble the cabinet, because if the disk is not centered correctly in advance, the minifix rod will not go all the way into the hole.

When tightening a furniture screw (confirm), you should not use much force to prevent it from turning in the hole. But if this does happen, try sealing the hole with three regular matches.

How to assemble a wardrobe: procedure

It is easier to assemble the cabinet if you place it face down on the floor. At the beginning of the process, be sure to measure the diagonal of the side panel (not the length, but the diagonal). This parameter should be 5 cm less than the ceiling height so that the assembled cabinet can then be raised. Otherwise, you can assemble the cabinet while standing, but you will need help holding the side panels in place.

If you want to assemble a wardrobe yourself, it is better to start from the bottom. Install the legs (or plinths) on the bottom of the cabinet and insert all the fixed hardware into the holes: dowels and minifix rods. After this, you need to insert all the hardware into one of the sides and connect it to the bottom. If the wardrobe is wide with vertical jumpers, you should install the closest panel to the already standing side part. Then you can install the shelves between them in order from bottom to top. Next, in a similar way, assemble the next jumper and secure it with shelves.

Before installing the second side piece, look at how the top should fit. If the “roof” is installed on top of the entire structure, then you first need to secure the side frame. And if the top panel must be located between the side panels, before the last of them is attached, then you must first fix the top.

Nailing the back wall

Once you have assembled the frame, you can begin to secure the fiberboard on the back side. Most often, the back panel consists of several parts, so to avoid errors, you should determine the location of each of them before installation. Long-term storage of chipboard leads to slight deformation (especially the side elements). An arc (“belly”) appears on the panel, which can be eliminated if the fiberboard is nailed correctly.

That is, having attached the board to the cabinet, you first need to find and nail the flat side. Then, straightening out the curvature, you should nail the second side. Fiberboard is cut on sawing machines and has a rectangular shape, which is close to ideal. The described method allows you to level the cabinet, correcting the diagonal curvature. You can check the quality of the work performed using a tape measure ( tolerance is 5 mm per 1 m).

Some cabinets include radius additions on the sides of the structure. These are independent elements that can be easily assembled and attached to the cabinet using special furniture ties. The same applies to the decorative figured roof (“canopy”) into which the lighting is mounted.

Installing additional items

These include box blocks, a pipe for trempels, hooks, a pantograph, and lighting. These parts are standard purchased products, each of which has its own instructions with a detailed description of dimensions and installation work.

The exception is a pipe for hangers. The width is fixed exactly in the middle of the cabinet, and the height can be any. Most often, the pipe is installed below 50–100 mm from top shelf.

Door system installation

If you managed to assemble the wardrobe yourself and install everything necessary elements, then you can begin installing its doors.

We propose to consider the most popular system, which is used most often due to its low cost. The set consists of two guides: high (which is installed on top) and low (with slots for wheels) - mounted on the bottom panel of the cabinet. In most cases, there are no holes in the guides, so before assembling the cabinet doors, you need to prepare a drill with a diameter of 5 mm. The recesses in the bottom strip should be drilled between the grooves in one row: two at the edges and the rest between them at intervals of 300 mm. Holes are drilled in the top bar in a similar way, only in two rows (separately for each groove). Fastening is carried out using furniture screws 12–16 mm long with a countersunk or flat head.

Important. Before installing the bottom strip, do not forget to insert special door stoppers into the bottom slots - each has a separate parking stop, which is set after adjusting it.

Installation of guides

The top guide is installed flush with the end of the roof. First, you should secure one side of the plank, then align it with the end, and then install the second. Next you need to screw in the remaining intermediate screws. If you assemble the doors in the described sequence, then the skewing of the strip can be eliminated.

Important. The lower guide is not fixed flush, but with a distance of 15 mm from the end into the depth of the cabinet. This distance ensures that the doors will stand in a strictly vertical position without tilting.

Door installation

The next step is to install the doors, but first you need to figure out the pattern on them (if there is one). The first step is to install the door on the rear slots. To do this you need to carefully insert top part into the rear upper groove, squeeze out the spring-loaded lower wheels and place them on the lower rear slot. If the cabinet design includes more than two doors, it is necessary to install the second door on the rear rails in the same way. Exterior door is placed last.

Door adjustment

Now your task is to adjust the doors correctly. For these purposes, there are holes and adjusting screws for a 5-point hexagon at the bottom of the doors on both sides.

Using an L-shaped wrench, turn the bolt clockwise or counterclockwise. Pay attention to how the gap between the door and the sidewall changes - the smaller its width, the better.

After adjusting the doors, you need to set the stoppers correctly. They are designed to keep the doors stationary when closed. Align them so that the wheel fits exactly onto the stopper, and the end of the door does not reach the wall by about a millimeter. When there is more than one door, the outer latches are adjusted first, and then the rest relative to them.

Buffer fleece tape must be applied to the side ends of the adjusted doors (on both sides). This tape helps prevent doors from colliding with each other, as well as preventing damage to the chipboard. Sometimes, after filling the closet with things, the structure becomes slightly deformed, after which the doors need to be re-adjusted.

First you need to make sure that all work on leveling the walls, floors, finishing (including installing the apron), electrical wiring, connecting sockets and water supply is completed. It will be very difficult to complete the listed types of work with an already installed kitchen cabinet.

Before you collect Kitchen Cabinet, take care to prepare the necessary tools:

a hammer drill, a drill with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm, a drill (and an adapter for it) and corresponding drills;

screwdriver (required!);

a jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal (to saw off the tabletop);

hex wrench;

tools: square and level, tape measure, hammer, pliers and cutter knife.

Advice!You can borrow the missing items from someone, but it is better to purchase these tools yourself so that you can use them if necessary. A screwdriver and a hammer drill are useful in every home.

In order to assemble a kitchen cabinet, you should also prepare various fasteners:

furniture nails;

euroscrews;

fastening strip (rail) for hanging;

silicone based sealant;

ties that fasten the sections together;

self-tapping screws: 15–16 mm for fittings and 70 mm for hanging cabinets;

corners, dowels, anchor bolts(usually included with the headset);

conductor for dowels (preferably).

If you have instructions that tell you how to assemble the cabinet, study it carefully. It should describe (or draw) and number the parts of the headset, and also define the assembly sequence. Then you need to check the integrity of the package and arrange all the available elements. Because today almost everything kitchen sets consist of modules, the process of assembling a cabinet is reminiscent of working with a construction set.

Usually they start assembling a kitchen cabinet from the bottom: first they install the lower cabinets, then the countertop, then they form and hang the upper modules, draw markings on the wall, and then install and hang the modules.

What is the algorithm for installing kitchen cabinet parts? Do you need to assemble the lower sections first or, conversely, the upper ones? You can install in these two ways. There are craftsmen who begin the installation process from the upper modules so that the lower cabinets do not interfere with work.

Please note that the upper cabinets are installed without fronts, so their installation will be easier. Plus, in this way you can identify the gaps between the facades directly on the wall.

If you decide to assemble the kitchen yourself, it is better to start from the bottom tier. Standard cabinets are divided depending on the type of construction, each of which has its own characteristics.

So, the decision was made to assemble the kitchen, starting with the lower modules.

First of all, we connect the bottom to the side walls using Euroscrews, which are included in the kit.

We are installing the top strips, on which we will then lay the tabletop. Then we measure the diagonals of the cabinet using a tape measure. If their length differs by no more than 1.5–3 mm, we continue the work process.

We secure the back wall made of fairly thin fiberboard using small nails or a construction stapler. To ensure reliable fastening, monitor the step frequency (it should not exceed 8–10 mm).

We install the legs on the lower part of the cabinet, securing them with self-tapping screws.

We install hinges in pre-made nests and secure them with self-tapping screws, then attach the lower facades to the hinges.

After installing the cabinet in a vertical position, you need to align the doors using the adjusting screws on the hinges.

If you managed to assemble the set, at the end you need to install the handles.

Drawers are easier to assemble using a slightly different technology.

First, you need to make markings on the side walls to install metal guides.

In accordance with the markings, we secure the guides, and then connect the side walls with the bottom and upper slats.

We assemble the retractable elements by installing the mechanisms on their side surfaces.

Note! The bottom of such boxes is the most weakness. It is best to fasten it using a construction stapler with a step frequency of 5–8 mm.

We equip the front parts of the drawers with handles.

This element is the easiest to assemble.

First you need to assemble the “cabinet box” by connecting the bottom, top and side walls using Euroscrews.

We install the hinges in the sockets and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Advice! Do not rush to hang the doors, this will make it difficult to install the cabinets on the wall.

Last step– fastening of suspensions. If everything worked out, feel free to proceed with installing the kitchen cabinet.

We begin the installation process by installing the upper part of the structure, since the assembled lower cabinet with the already installed countertop can make it difficult to install wall-mounted modules.

We apply markings to the wall to secure the wall cabinets.

We measure the height of the tabletop and add from 50 to 60 cm to the resulting value, depending on our height. This way we get the height of the bottom edge of the wall cabinets.

From this line we measure the distance to the attachment point wall cabinet and draw another line. This is where we will fix the fasteners.

Advice! If your headset has corner cupboard, you should start assembling the upper part with it, and after installing it, begin installing the remaining elements.

After applying the markings, you can begin installing the fasteners.

If we hang cabinets on hinge fastenings, we need to drill holes in the wall with a diameter of 8 mm and hammer plastic dowels into them.

Then we install locking screws with hooks at the ends into the dowels and then hang the cabinets.

Another way is to hang the elements on a metal rail. To do this, specially shaped fasteners are attached to the modules themselves, which cling to the wall-mounted metallic profile(as in the photo).

This method is considered more reliable, so it is better to use it if possible; besides, the cost of the tire cannot be called high.

After installing the modules, you can hang the fronts and align them using the adjustment screws.

The floor part is a little easier to assemble than the rest.

First, using a jigsaw or a hacksaw with a thin blade, we cut holes in the back walls of the cabinets for communications. We treat the edges of the cuts with silicone-based sealant to protect the cabinet from getting wet and deforming.

We attach the cabinet to the place intended for it, level it, then connect it with the neighboring cabinets using furniture ties.

After installing all the cabinets, we install the tabletop.

If the tabletop does not fit, we cut its panel and install a protective end cap.

Note! The countertop must be installed in such a way that the gap between it and the kitchen wall is at least 5 mm (to avoid deformation).

How to assemble the tabletop:

We lower the tabletop onto the cabinets and make markings on its lower surface where the sink is installed.

We remove the countertop and, placing it on a table or workbench, cut out a hole for the sink. This can be done by drilling several holes using a drill and connecting them with a jigsaw.

We install and secure the sink on the countertop, then treat the joint with silicone sealant.

We install a countertop with a fixed sink on kitchen cabinets, after which we align it horizontally and plane, and then fix it on the kitchen modules. To do this you can take special fasteners or simply drive the spikes on the tabletop into sockets drilled in the walls of the modules.

The joint between the countertop and the wall can be disguised using a special plinth.

So we managed to assemble the kitchen cabinet. Now you can connect the sink to the water supply and sewerage system, place household appliances and use the kitchen as normal.

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The wardrobe is one of the most functional pieces of furniture. It can be used not only to store personal items, but also as an element, allowing you to hide visually “unfavorable” interior details present in any living space.

Tools: Drill (screwdriver), caliper, awl, screwdriver, Forstner drill (35 mm), pencil, set of wood drills
Consumables: Dowels, euroscrews, PVA glue, silicone adhesive sealant

Next, we will look at the process of self-assembly of a small hanging cabinet, which is used to “aesthetically transform” the distribution box - functional, but not very elegant in appearance.

IMPORTANT: Applying this method You can achieve the best result if the door (facade) of the cabinet is made in the same color or style with the facades of the furniture sets in the hallway, kitchen, or living room.

Taking measurements

The first step is to take measurements. Using , determine the exact width and height of the distribution box.

Creating a sketch and diagram of the cabinet

Before making an exact diagram of the future cabinet, it is recommended to draw a simplified sketch of it by hand. This will help you determine the optimal configuration of elements and their location. It is better to make several sketches, and then choose the most suitable one.

Determine the number and location of shelves, the direction the door opens, and the location of fastening ( corner elements It is best to fasten on both sides of the corner - i.e. on two adjacent walls). In order to correctly determine the height of the shelves, imagine what items will be placed on them. If these are toiletries (bottles, cans, vials, etc.) - make the height of the shelves correspond to the longest of the intended items (Fig. 1). Determine how much the dimensions of your cabinet will exceed the dimensions of the distribution box - it is advisable to make the width of the cabinet a little larger for ease of attaching the hinges.

After the approximate sketch of the cabinet is ready, make a more accurate assembly diagram using the box dimensions determined earlier (Fig. 2). Such a diagram can be created using one of the many free design programs, in any graphics editor, or simply by drawing it by hand. When drawing up a diagram, do not forget to correctly design the places of the ties, determine which element will be located at the end and which plane.

Don't forget about the fasteners. It is extremely undesirable to place fastener caps on the front side of the product, even if decorated afterwards with plugs. To tie elements together on the front side, it is recommended to use furniture dowels (spikes). In invisible places, you can use ordinary furniture corners, confirmats (euro screws) or classic self-tapping screws.

Cutting the material

The material for the cabinet is chipboard. It is the most accessible, easy to process and quite durable. You can purchase ready-made panels and cut them yourself using a miter saw or a regular hacksaw. However, it is much more convenient to have all the elements cut by professionals. The cut edges will be smoother and more aesthetically pleasing, and you will not have to laminate the ends yourself, which is also quite difficult to do without equipment and certain skills.

Based on the diagram you completed earlier, create an order sheet (Fig. 3), indicating the size and required quantity of each element, as well as the lamination locations (front sides). And, of course, do not forget to determine the color of your future cabinet.

Preparing cabinet elements for assembly

Making holes for tie rods

In our example, the elements are tied together using dowels (on the front side) and euroscrews on the opposite (support) side. The holes for fastenings, in turn, are located on the internal planes of the side walls and the ends of the ceilings (Fig. 1).

In order for the marking to be accurate, axial lines should be drawn on which the centers of future holes will be. Set the caliper to a size that corresponds to half the thickness of the sheet. As a rule, in the production of furniture, chipboard sheets with a thickness of 16 mm are used, so in our example, the size should be set to 8 mm on the scale.

IMPORTANT: To make markings on laminated chipboard (especially on light-colored surfaces), a simple pencil is best suited. It is chemically inert and can be easily removed from elements using a regular eraser.

Place the tool against the end edge of the element and mark the distance to the central axis. Do the same on the opposite edge of the end. Then draw a center line along the marked points.

Using a caliper, mark the same distance (8 mm) on the plane of the element on both sides. Use a ruler or draw a center line along the marks you made.

Center lines must be applied to all ends and edges of elements that will subsequently be tightened with fasteners.

After all the axes are drawn, mark the location of the mounting holes on each of them. To do this, set a size of 10-15 mm on the caliper, step back and mark this distance on the ends and planes of all elements.

IMPORTANT: The distance for all elements must be the same.

Using an awl, make shallow punctures at the marked points.

Using an electric drill or drill the mounting holes thin drill(2 mm) to a depth equal to half the length of the dowel or the length of the euro screw, reduced by the thickness of the chipboard (depending on what type of fastener is used for the screed). Try to hold the drill tightly, positioning the drill strictly perpendicular to the plane with the future hole.

IMPORTANT: To avoid making a mistake with the depth of the hole, use a strip of masking tape or insulating tape and wrap it around the drill bit at the required distance.

The full diameter of the holes is determined in accordance with the fasteners you use. In our example, the diameter of the dowels is 8 mm, the diameter of the Euroscrews is 6 mm, so for the final drilling of the holes, drills with a diameter of 8 and 6 mm are used, respectively. To work with confirmations, there are specialized drills that allow you to drill holes of a fixed depth in accordance with the diameter of the fastener. It is recommended to use such equipment for regular work.

Drill the preliminary holes to the desired diameter, deepening them slightly. It is enough to make the holes 1-2 mm deeper - this way you can tighten the elements better. A slight increase in depth is also necessary when using adhesive composition as an additional fixing factor.

When using Euroscrews to tighten, it is necessary to make through holes on the surface of one of the mating elements (in our example, on the side wall of the cabinet).

In order for the Euroscrew head to be in the same plane with the surface of the element (deeper into the material), the holes on the screw side of the Euroscrews must be countersunk to a depth of about 2-3 mm. For this, a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the Euroscrew head is used (in our example, the drill diameter is 10 mm).

Drilling holes to secure cabinet shelves

To fix the cabinet shelves, you can use special stops (shelf holders), or, as in our case, small furniture corners. Shelf holders allow you to easily rearrange shelves, thus changing the height of their location, furniture corners provide additional strength to the cabinet frame.

To determine the location of the corners, draw center lines corresponding to the lower boundaries of the shelves.

IMPORTANT: When marking, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the chipboard, as well as the location of the hinges and ease of installation. If your shelves are low enough, make sure you can fix them (Fig. 4). Do not place shelves too low and avoid placing fasteners too close to each other.

In our example, the bottom shelf is located exactly in the middle between the bottom screed and the top shelf of the cabinet (Fig. 6). To determine the height of the lower shelf (the position of its upper edge), you should divide the distance between the lower edge of the upper shelf and the upper edge of the lower screed in half, and then add half the thickness of the chipboard sheet (8 mm) to the resulting value. Measure this distance from the bottom edge of the top shelf and draw a center line (Fig. 5).

Attach a furniture corner to the drawn line and mark the centers for fastening the shelves at each of the support points (at the rate of two corners on each side of the shelf). The distance from the front edge of the shelf to the corner is chosen arbitrarily, but it should be taken into account that the fastenings should not be too noticeable when looking at the shelf from above.

In order for the marking to be more accurate, combine and fix all symmetrical elements of the cabinet (in our example, the side supporting walls), using a long rule or . After this, carry out axial marking of all elements at once (Fig. 5). If you mark elements separately, errors are inevitable.

If the size of your cabinet is not too large, carefully assemble it on the floor (Fig. 6). The elements do not need to be fastened together with fasteners—it is enough to place them next to each other. This way you can check in advance that the cabinet is assembled correctly and, if necessary, correct any mistakes.

Drill the holes for the corners to a shallow depth (3-4 mm) with a thin drill.

Drilling holes for fixing the cabinet to the wall

The cabinet is fixed on both sides of the corner. At the side, fastening is done using two self-tapping screws, at the back - using one furniture corner (Fig. 2). The side holes are made in such a way that the fasteners move freely in them. In our example, their diameter is 4 mm. The location for placing the fasteners is chosen arbitrarily.

The rear support corner is located in the least noticeable place - under the middle shelf (Fig. 2). By attaching the corner to the side wall of the cabinet in in the right place, mark the mounting hole, then pierce and drill it with a thin drill to a depth of about 2-3 mm (Fig. 7).

Hanging cabinet hinges

Installing hinge cups on cabinet doors

If the facade you are using already has holes for hinges, you can skip this step. In our example there are no holes, so they should be marked and drilled.

IMPORTANT: When marking the places where the hinges are attached, take into account the cabinet configuration and the location of the metal distribution box. Don’t forget - about 20-25 mm is needed to place the hinge strikes free space. Also, you should not place the hinges in places that are difficult to access for installation, for example, close to shelves.

To drill the loop holes, a Forstner drill with a diameter of 35 mm is used. The holes should be located at a distance of 5-6 mm from the side edge of the facade and at a distance of 50-100 mm from its lower and upper edges (Fig. 8).

Using a caliper, measure the required distances from the edges of the facade and mark the centers of the hinge holes.

Indentation values:

35 mm / 2 + 5.5 mm = 23 mm- from the side edge;

99.5 mm + 35 mm / 2 = 117 mm– from the bottom (top) edge.

Since in our example a ready-made façade was used and assembly was carried out based on its size, the upper hinge was placed slightly lower due to the inconvenient location of the electrical box (Fig. 2).

Having marked the holes, pierce them with an awl strictly perpendicular to the surface of the facade.

Install a Forstner drill bit into the electric drill chuck and securely fix it. Drill the hinge hole to the desired depth. The hinge cup must fit completely inside the hole.

Never try to do this work in one stage. After drilling the hole to a depth of 5-7 mm, continue drilling gradually. When removing small layers of material 1-2 mm thick, apply a loop and check its position. Do not forget - the drill has a sharp protrusion at the end, which can damage the front side of the facade if drilled too deeply. Some craftsmen grind off this protrusion or even use two types of equipment, first cutting through the outline with a regular drill, and then using a drill bit without a lip, drilling the holes all the way out. However, when correct use tool - the work can be easily done with a regular (sharp) drill, since the laminated chipboard sheet has sufficient thickness.

IMPORTANT: Drilling holes large diameter, do not forget to place hard material under the facade to avoid tearing its front side.

Once the holes are made, clean them thoroughly. Install the hinge cups and level the hinges using a block, rule, or building level. Then mark the centers of the hinge mounting holes with a pencil

Remove the hinges. Pierce with an awl and drill the mounting holes with a thin drill to a depth of 3-4 mm.

Reinstall the hinges and secure them with the supplied self-tapping screws.

Marking holes for hinge strikes

Align the door and supporting side using the rule. Using a caliper, set a small technological gap (2-3 mm) along the entire length of the door edge (Fig. 8). The top and bottom edges of the elements must match.

Don’t be afraid to make a mistake when setting the gap; it can later be adjusted by 2-3 mm by adjusting the hinge strikers.

Mark the centers of the mounting holes for the hinge strikes on the side wall of the cabinet using a pencil. Remove the door with hinges, pierce it with an awl and drill holes to a depth of 2-3 mm using a thin drill.

Assembling and securing the cabinet

It is advisable to assemble wall-mounted furniture not only in accordance with the principles of fixing the elements, but also taking into account the method of fixing the entire structure to the wall. This will give you a more comfortable working environment (especially if assembly and fastening is done alone).

In our case optimal solution is the combination of assembly and fastening of the cabinet. Thus, the two parts of the cabinet are assembled in advance, and then pulled together at the place of fastening. This method will allow you to fix the top side of the cabinet to the wall of the electrical box using adhesive.

Assembling the first half of the cabinet

Assemble and tighten the first half of the cabinet (Fig. 9) using Euroscrews. The fasteners are threaded into the through holes of the first mating element (right side wall), and then screwed into the end holes of the second (bottom tie) using a hex key or a screwdriver with a hex bit. The confirmations are tightened until their caps are flush with the plane of the material.

Assembling the second half of the cabinet

To assemble the second half of the cabinet, PVA glue is used as an additional fastener. Add a little glue to the mounting holes on the plane of the first mating element (left side wall) (3-4 drops in each), then tightly hammer the dowels into them using a plastic hammer. Lock the rear mounting bracket on the side of the cabinet

Similarly, add glue to the end holes of the second mating element (top tie). Align the elements tightly and, if necessary, secure them with masking tape or supports.

Preparation for installation

First, install the first half of the cabinet close to the metal box and mark the side mounting holes. Since the marking is done through the side wall, it is not advisable to use a pencil or marker. It is more convenient to do it using a nail or a drill with a small drill directly through the holes in the side wall of the cabinet.

Install the second half of the cabinet also close to the box. Mark the center of the mounting hole of the rear metal corner with a simple pencil.

Drill the mounting holes using drills corresponding to the diameter of the plastic dowels (most often, dowels with a diameter of 6 mm are used to fix small wall modules).

IMPORTANT: Be extremely careful when making holes in walls. The power supply lines connected to the distribution box and located near it must not be damaged by the drill. If you are not sure where the supply lines are located, use

A sliding wardrobe is one of the most convenient and compact ways to store things. It has small shelves for light items of clothing, and large ones for bulkier items, there are compartments for storing skis, a compartment equipped with a rod for placing outerwear, etc.

Makes the closet compact sliding doors, which do not require space to swing open, they move on special rollers located inside the structure of the door itself. Even a person inexperienced in such matters can assemble such a cabinet, since the assembly principle is quite simple and does not require the use of special tools.

Read the instructions and sort the parts

First you need to carefully read the instructions and understand individual parts- find the lower and upper elements, side posts, internal partitions.

If you mix up even one part, you are guaranteed to have to disassemble it just now. assembled structure and install everything again. Therefore, it is so important at the initial stage to correctly determine the location of all parts of the cabinet.

Assembling the frame

First we install the base (bottom element).

As a rule, this plate is attached to stands located along the long side using confirmations (these are so-called Euroscrews that have a recess in the head for a special hex key).

Installing internal partitions

At the lower end of the partitions there are holes into which dowels must be inserted before installation.

A dowel (chopik) is a small piece of rod round section, used to strengthen wooden joints.

There are blind holes in the bottom plate, which are intended for such dowels. Having aligned the dowels and holes, we install the vertical partitions in their place (an assistant will be needed here).

We fix the shelves

Now, in order to prevent the structure from becoming loose, we install shelves, which in this case act as stiffeners.

We secure them with confirmations.

At this stage, fasteners must be screwed in completely, leaving no free play.

We install the side racks and the top cover

Now the final part of assembling the frame is the installation of the side posts and the top cover. All three elements must be installed simultaneously.

Although this action depends on design features and the location of fastening points on these parts. First, we install the sidewalls, fastening them at the bottom with the base with confirmations.

Then we put the lid on top, align the holes in all the parts and also tighten the fasteners. Here you need to leave a little free play, since you will need to level the entire frame.

Aligning the structure

The alignment process involves next steps. It is necessary to use a tape measure to first measure one diagonal, then the second, and by the difference in values determine in which direction you need to “press” (move) the top of the cabinet so that its corners are perfectly straight.

Now you can wrap the confirmations to the end with force.

We nail chipboard sheets

The next assembly step is to nail the fiberboard sheets to the back of the cabinet.

These sheets will not only serve as a back wall, but will also reliably keep the structure from loosening throughout the entire period of operation.

As a rule, the canvases have a decorative treatment on the front side in the form of a laminated colored surface. The sheets are fastened using small nails, which must be driven into the ends of all cabinet elements (racks, partitions, shelves).

Here it is important to guess the place of nailing, because the cabinet parts are not visible from the back side, and damage resulting from wrong choice, negatively affect the appearance of the product.

We place the rails - guides

Now the most crucial moment is the installation of the lower and upper rails for the doors. The bottom rail has two grooves for the movement of rollers:

And the top is divided into two sections:

In both, you must first drill holes for screws to attach them to the base and cover.

The holes must be chamfered to allow the screw to be screwed in flush.

It is enough to make 4 holes in each plank. We fasten the bottom rail first, marking the corresponding fastening points.

The distance from the edge of the base to the leading edge of the rail should be 2.5 cm.

To ensure that the doors do not jam and they move evenly, it is necessary to install the cabinet strictly horizontally, which can be done using a regular building level.

The longer the level, the more accurate the horizontal indicators will be.

The top rail is attached in a similar way with the only difference being that you need to drill holes in a checkerboard pattern in both compartments.

Screws from the set supplied with the cabinet are used as fasteners.

From the front end of the top cover to the beginning of the edge of the rail, the distance should be 2 mm.

We install rods and fittings

The final construction stage will be the installation of a bar to accommodate outerwear.

First you need to mark the attachment points for one holder (it is secured with 3 screws), drill holes and tighten the screws.

Then install the second holder on the rod, pressing it with a screw.

The assembled structure must first be tried on, aligned horizontally, and then outlined and attached with the same screws.

We hang the doors

Before this stage, you need to check the gutters in the lower bar for the absence of debris that will interfere with the movement of the rollers, once again make sure that the planes are horizontal and check all connections for rigidity.

The door is first inserted into the top rail.

And then the end rollers need to be placed in the groove of the lower rail.

All 4 doors are installed in this way (the main thing is not to confuse the picture).

In principle, there is nothing complicated in installing a wardrobe. You just need to take a responsible approach to all stages of its assembly, and then you will not only receive advanced training as home handyman, but also certainly gratitude for preserving the family budget.