This is our first idea that started it all. Design solution, when turned upside down, it is attached to the tabletop and then fixed between the bearings - this is not a new idea. It is presented in numerous versions on the Internet, but we wanted to go further and bring something new and unique to this solution. So our carpentry workbench, which can be purchased in our workshop, is presented below.
Our idea
Most of the designs described on the Internet are stationary solutions, that is, they are mounted on some kind of large surface, and transportation or the ability to fold and remove the machine is not expected. There are many options when one worker is equipped with various hand-held power tools, for example, a milling cutter, etc. In this case, the versatility of such a comprehensive solution takes place, but mobility and transformation are also not provided for in this case.
There are solutions when the machine is not large and can be easily moved and removed. But it is not designed to be easily disassembled and folded into a compact form. An example of such a machine is described in the article "".
Our idea is to make a set of devices that would easily integrate with each other and complement each other, while expanding functionality. In addition to integration during operation, our tools must be able to integrate during storage. For example, be some components one case that can easily find its place on a closet or mezzanine.
Thus, our developments will be most useful to those who have limited storage space and space for work. When you have a spacious workshop or a large, warm garage, there is plenty of space (although it varies), but if you want to tinker in an apartment, this option is simply necessary.
"Two in one"
The sketches and drawings immediately outlined quite a few options for such devices and machines, but we decided to start with the most basic thing that a master might need in the first place, namely a workbench. It all starts with him, because it is the workbench that forms workplace, which should be convenient to work with. In parallel with the workbench, a machine was developed using, since the sawing operation is the most common and in demand. We talked about the choice and files for it in articles. This is how the case turned out, one half of which is a workbench, and the other is a sawing machine made of . Both halves can be used both together and separately.
We can offer drawings of our devices.
To receive them you need:
— Pay a nominal fee (200 rub.)
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— Write a review (comment) under this article.
In order to use our devices you need a table that is as stable as possible. Fastening to the table is carried out using clamps. This type of mount was chosen specifically because installation is quite quick and simple. The base shape is square (edge length – 500mm). This is also obvious - for versatility. The attachment is made to the edge of the table, and the design is designed in such a way that it can be installed on both the left and right sides of the table.
All elements are made of polished 15 mm thick.
Crafting table
The main purpose of a workbench is to create a comfortable workspace for work. Since many operations with workpieces involve their rigid fastening, we have developed a design that allows you to fasten workpieces different forms and sizes. The resulting design allows you to fasten the workpiece in the following ways:
- Emphasis.
- Clamps. The tabletop has special slots into which clamps are installed, and the workpiece is fastened in seconds and quite reliably.
- Vise. If you attach any board to the tabletop with clamps, then a vice (not included) can be easily installed on this board.
- Side clamp. In another way, it can be called a side vice, since it is a persistent board that is pressed with clamps, which are also installed in special slots.
If the thrust board is turned over, its top edge will be higher than the plane of the base of the workbench. This option is used when it is necessary to clamp a wide workpiece, one of the sides of which will rest against the installed stops.
Since the workbench is made of, you don’t have to worry about the table on which it will be installed - if you don’t overtighten the clamps, then even a varnished table won’t be in any danger. Due to the fact that the space between the working surface of the workbench and the table itself is closed, shavings and sawdust, getting inside through the holes of the stops, do not scatter throughout the room, but accumulate inside - the result is an improvised dust collector.
Sawing machine
As already mentioned above, the fundamental design of such a homemade wall is not original, there are analogues. However, it is necessary to note some features of our option:
- it is fixed not by two (as in many samples), but by three rollers (bearings), where one is transverse, against which it rests. If you use only two bearings, then during prolonged sawing, firstly, it will overheat faster due to one more friction plane (accordingly, the file may become deformed; it will fail faster; the quality of the saw deteriorates), and secondly, the metal plate, which the file presses on will sooner or later wear out and have to be replaced.
- The fixation bracket can be installed in two positions - on the left or the edge of the base farthest from the master. This allows you to turn it over if necessary. In the position when the bracket is installed on the left edge of the tabletop, it is possible to saw workpieces that are not limited in length, but not wider than 300 mm (the distance from the saw to the vertical part of the bracket).
Accordingly, everything is the other way around, when when the bracket is installed on the edge of the tabletop farthest from the master, it is possible to saw workpieces that are not limited in width, but not longer than 300 mm (the distance from the vertical part of the bracket). The photo below shows the design elements of the bracket.
- The bar with fixing rollers is height adjustable. This allows you to optimally select the fixing distance (from the tabletop level to the bottom edge of the plank). The lower the bar, the better the fixation. It can even be very convenient to saw when the longitudinal roller (on which it rests) rolls along the workpiece. In any case, the important thing is the length, which will allow you to install the bar with fixing rollers as high as possible. The sizes and parameters of jigsaw files are described in detail in another article.
- Implemented inside the base electrical part– socket and switch, the wire is laid in the cable channel. If you simply plug the jigsaw's wire into a socket, then to turn it on you will need to look under the table, find the power button, turn on the jigsaw and lock the button in the pressed position. In our version with the electrical part, all these operations are performed not under the table, where it is dark and uncomfortable, but at the time the jigsaw is installed. In this case, turning the jigsaw on and off occurs by simply pressing the switch, which is located in a convenient place.
- The base is rigidly fixed to the work table with two clamps, preventing it from moving during operation.
Sharing
As was said at the very beginning, our idea is to make a certain set of devices and machines that would allow them to be used together, while expanding the functionality, so our workbench and jigsaw can be used together.
Working on a workbench
When working on a workbench, a sawing machine can be installed nearby (on the left or right). This allows you to double the working surface of the workbench, which makes it possible to work with longer workpieces.
Working on the machine
As in the previous case, when adding a machine to the workbench, we get an expansion of the work table, which allows you to work with larger workpieces. But in this case, the position of the bracket is uniquely determined - on the side farthest from the master.
Assembling the case for transportation and storage
If necessary, the workbench and machine can be folded as two halves, resulting in one case (suitcase). It should be noted that all components are placed inside, nothing unnecessary will remain outside the case. Everything inside is securely fastened, so nothing is loose. Even the fasteners have their own box inside so as not to be lost. In the internal space there is a special place for the jigsaw itself, as well as clamps, so the set is complete and complete.
The case has a removable handle, which is installed in special slots and is simply removed during operation so that it does not interfere.
The case is assembled and disassembled in a matter of seconds. Special hooks are installed on one side (they are removed in the working position), and two “suitcase” latches are installed on the front side.
Quality
Each product contains a piece of the master, so we approach each of our work with soul and try to do it conscientiously. We try to avoid backlash and unnecessary gaps; all components are carefully processed (sanded, for example), sharp edges are filled to prevent chips, etc. Of course, you need to understand what this is handmade and it’s not 100% ideal - you can find fault if you really want to, but we are improving our developments in the direction of technology and quality. Take, for example, a screwed-in foot - it should not stick out or be recessed.
Conclusion
We hope that you will like our idea and even if you do not purchase it from us, but simply the presented material will be interesting and useful to you, then our efforts were not in vain. We will be grateful for your feedback and suggestions.
A compact and relatively mobile sawing tool, it has earned a reputation as a practical device used all over the world. A universal jigsaw, capable of making straight and curved cuts, including at an angle. Possessing impressive capabilities this device could become a leader in multi-purpose applications. Unfortunately, certain features designs, made it more of a narrowly focused tool, but with good potential.
One of the disadvantages of working with a jigsaw is that it is quite inconvenient to carry out an accurate, straight cut. The main reason for this drawback is the thin saw blade, which easily changes its direction during sawing. The second reason lies in the structure itself, which becomes loose over time and noticeably reduces the evenness of the cut. Fortunately, these flaws can be ignored if you have special jigsaw tools that you can make yourself. Next, we will tell you how to make a special table and stop for maximum precision sawing with your tool.
Jigsaw table
To make working with a jigsaw more comfortable and the cutting line to be smoother, numerous craftsmen combine it with a small stand, turning this symbiosis into a convenient mini-workbench. The jigsaw is installed in the table from the bottom side, so that the file is directed upward, passing through a specially prepared hole. The start button of the tool is fixed, and the operator calmly cuts the workpiece, controlling it with both hands. This device allows you to cut more accurately and is ideal for comfortable work with large volumes of material.
Making a basic table for a jigsaw with your own hands is quite simple, as for experienced craftsman, and for a beginner. Any more or less suitable for assembly suitable materials, with whom you can work. If you only have a saw and a screwdriver, make it from chipboard or thick plywood. Owners of grinders and welding machines, can afford to make a mini-workbench from metal sheets and tubes. Such a device can even be made from plastic, if there is a way to securely fix this material. As clear example, we will provide a guide on how to assemble a small table from thick plywood.
To assemble a simple jigsaw table with your own hands, drawings are generally not required, since the dimensions similar product everyone chooses for themselves individually. As a visual example, we will give a photo of a fairly miniature box indicating the dimensions of all its sides. Based on this data, you can estimate and select optimal ratio parties for their future product.
The parts are connected using ordinary self-tapping screws, screwed into the edges of the walls of the tabletop. If the material used does not have a varnished coating, PVA glue can be used to enhance fixation. This design will be stronger, but it will no longer be possible to disassemble it.
Advice. Before screwing finished surface to the base, you should mark in advance and drill a hole in it for the file. Next, with opposite side attach the sole of the jigsaw, make marks in its grooves for fixation, and then drill. It is more convenient to carry out such manipulations on a clean surface, which will only need to be screwed to the walls.
As a base, you can use a workbench or another, more or less suitable piece of furniture. The author of the following video made a table for working with a jigsaw from an old bedside table, installing a switch and a dust extractor in it.
Jigsaw attachment
Installing a jigsaw in a table greatly simplifies the process of sawing thin materials, but the cutting accuracy drops when it comes to thick bars. Due to the flexible structure of the saw blade, when it turns in a large mass of wood, the end of the file bends and lags behind the central part. In this case, it will not be possible to obtain an exact 90-degree angle. At least without special device for a jigsaw holding the file strictly perpendicular to the surface.
To cut material more than 3 cm thick without fear of beveled edges, you just need to adapt a simple device to your mini-machine. The essence of the element’s operation is to fix the end of the file between two freely rotating rollers. To make such a device for a jigsaw with your own hands, you will need following materials:
- Mounting bracket metal structures(as in the photo)
- Pair of bearings: 11mm radius
- Bar: 600x40x40
- Square of thick plywood or chipboard: 100x100
- Mounting bracket: 2 pcs
- Bolts with washers and nuts for fastening to the table and installing the bracket: 5 pcs.
- Screws with washers and nuts for fixing bearings: 2 pcs.
- Wood glue
- Drill with a set of drills for wood and metal
We measure and drill 2 holes for the bearing screws. Their location should be equidistant from each other, at a distance equal to the thickness of the jigsaw file.
Having finished constructing the stop, we move on to assembling and installing the lever. To do this, we make 2 pieces of timber of the required length, and connect them at an angle of 90° using PVA glue and metal corners. We combine the resulting structure with a bearing guide and press it against the side wall of the table with a plate with 4 screws. This fastening technique allows you to change the height of the lever to work with massive materials.
At this point, the guide to assembling a jigsaw table with a file holder is considered complete. The assembled device is a neat and very compact mini-workbench for convenient cutting of materials of various thicknesses. We hope that the author’s product will become a visual example for you or at least give you a couple of ideas for assembling your own table.
Table for cutting with a jigsaw
Such a multifaceted tool as a forehead has several varieties, the simplest of which is the manual type of device. This elementary tool, not burdened with an electric drive and complex components, is intended for accurate figured cutting of workpieces of small thickness. The speed of work depends on physical indicators and the convenience of the workplace. To facilitate the cutting process, it is recommended to build a special cutting table for a jigsaw, the drawing of which is located below. This simple device will save energy and significantly increase work efficiency.
You can assemble a jigsaw table from the most different materials: plywood, chipboard, wood, laminate, metal and even plastic. If there is absolutely nothing suitable in stock, and the required piece needs to be purchased, then in this case, plywood will be the most easily accessible and convenient to process. To make a complete product you will need the following components:
- Plywood (or something similar): 260x200x10
- Clamp
- Self-tapping screws with countersunk head: 4 pcs
- Saw (hacksaw or jigsaw)
- Drill or screwdriver with a set of drills
- Ruler
- Sandpaper or file
Manual power tool very popular both among amateurs and among professionals due to its obvious advantages, namely:
- comparative cheapness and availability;
- compactness;
- mobility.
Reverse side of these unconditional advantages is the presence of such shortcomings, How:
- relatively small continuous operation time;
- small achievable accuracy;
- insufficient quality of processing.
Obviously, these shortcomings are free professional stationary solutions - machines and machines on massive frames. As a result, they are quite not cheap, but the main thing is that they need to be placed somewhere. What to do if it is not possible to equip workshop, but I want to improve quality works? This question is asked by many of those who are passionate about a serious hobby, and even just beginners. masters
In our article we will talk about decision, allowing to eliminate known shortcomings manual jigsaw.
Advantages of a tabletop jigsaw
The general ones discussed above flaws hand power tools fully inherent and jigsaw.
Its main advantage is mobility – involves exclusively manual movements and fixation tool. That is, in reality it turns out that:
- Very difficult to do smooth, a clear cut: the slightest extra movement - and a visible flaw appears in the cutting line. Those included in the kit guides do not save due to their insufficient rigidity;
- Corner tilt The saw blade in relation to the workpiece is actually not controlled in any way. And even in the simplest case straight cut when the canvas perpendicular jigsaw sole, the result may disappoint. There are at least two reasons:
- Saw blade – elastic and can bend during the cutting process, the free edge of the file is not limited by anything;
- On affordable (read: cheap) models, it’s quite often ideal direct the angle between the file and the sole is difficult reach due to the very design of the cheap stamped grounds.
Interesting Mark, what, say, American craftsmen use manual jigsaw is quite rare. For example, when you need cut opening in the kitchen countertop for installation sinks In other cases, they prefer to use stationary band saws of various sizes. Such saws are completely devoid of some disadvantages (mentioned above), and are fully endowed with others: dimensions, weight and... price.
To summarize above, we can confidently conclude that, in some way securing jigsaw on the workbench, it is possible to a certain extent win some of its shortcomings. And if you provide guides rollers for free edge canvases files, you can get a completely even cut. And clean - at correct selection the file itself.
Therefore, special jigsaw table will significantly improve the quality of work with this tool.
Of course, you shouldn’t think that in this way you can get “cheaply” full-fledged tape saw. But more on that a little later, now – briefly about what will be needed for production.
Materials and tools
Materials can be used from those available at hand. I would just like to note that the working surface(“countertop”) must be level and sufficiently tough, Therefore, when choosing a material, you need to keep the following points in mind:
- Can be used plywood, however, thin (less than 12 mm) plywood is susceptible to warping, and it’s not a fact that the existing piece will be quite even.
Waterproof would be preferable laminated(“formwork”) plywood thickness from 12 mm. - If we talk about (chipboards), then in general case the thicker they are, the better - the more rigid. Ideally - a piece quality laminated kitchen table tops or "post-forming".
Disadvantages: less reliability fastenings tool, you need to take a more responsible approach to the choice of fasteners.
From advantages, perhaps the main thing is accessibility and simplicity: you can order all set parts according to their dimensions in any furniture workshop. Thickness It’s better to take not the standard 16 mm, but a larger one (for example, 22 mm). - Metal its properties are almost perfect, but in everyday life it is quite difficult to find a piece of suitable size, polished and smooth. Besides, do in it required holes somewhat more labor intensive, then it is wise to use drilling machine.
Set of necessary tool will depend on the selected materials, but in general it is approximate scroll something like this:
- pencil, roulette or a ruler, a carpenter's square - for marking;
- square will also be useful at the stage final assembly and settings;
- screwdrivers and nuts keys according to the selected fastener;
- screwdriver or drill, drills for fasteners, self-tapping screws (screws).
In addition, you will need rectangular metal bracket, two identical bearing and fasteners. Actually myself jigsaw will also come in handy.
Manufacturing stages
Regardless of the chosen material necessary:
- manufacture base and connect to the working surface with holes for attaching the sole of the tool;
- make a system brackets for the upper saw blade guide;
- collect and adjust table.
Base and work surface
Dimensions grounds are selected based on dimensions available jigsaw and are indicated approximately.
The dimensions of the working surface are also indicated approximately, from the bracket mounting side it mounted flush with the base, on the other three sides made small projection for ease of fastening rigging(clamps, stops, etc.).
Device bracket with guide bearings is clear from the figure.
Sizes can be chosen individually, but some Necessarily need to be kept in mind.
which limit the movement of the file to the side, you need pick up based on the size of the files you plan to use. Width the bearing itself (in reference books it is indicated by the letter IN) must not be larger than the width files, so as not to dull its teeth.
So, for example, if width metal file blades (T123X, T118A) usually more than 5 mm, then they will be suitable bearings with size B 4–5 mm, for example:
Wherein prefer follows the model with the letters ZZ, 2RS as the most protected from exposure to dust, which will certainly occur during the cutting process.
Saw blades tree, on the contrary, they can be narrow (T244D about 3.5 mm) and very narrow (T119BO about 3 mm, which can be used in our case). As an option - bearing 100093 (aka 693, 3 x 8 x 3 mm).
Selected bearing fastener: M3 or M4 screws, nuts (preferably “self-locking” with nylon insert that prevents spontaneous unscrewing).
Distance between axes bearings are also calculated based on the size of the files, thickness canvases may be within from 0.9 to 1.7 mm.
For example, thickness blade T244D is 1.25 mm, and T123X, T118A - 1 mm. It is better to round in big side.
Assembly and adjustment
Bracket can be secure in the following way
This method of fastening will make it possible adjust and the height of the guide bearings in accordance with the length of the saw, and (using a square) perpendicularity the saw itself relative to the work table.
As mentioned above, you shouldn’t delude yourself - even though it’s no longer easy jigsaw, but still not a band saw. Here are some tips:
- In a band saw movement saw blade occurs only in one direction – top down, due to which the workpiece is pressed against the table by cutting forces.
It is not possible for the workpiece to explode upward, since the pendulum of the jigsaw moves and returnable movement.
Therefore, the workpiece needs to be well press to the working surface of the table and the most important thing is to feed (move) the workpiece as much as possible slower.
- In a band saw movement saw blade occurs only in one direction – top down, due to which the workpiece is pressed against the table by cutting forces.
Note! More revs and less feed are much better than the other way around.
- When working with a jigsaw (with or without a table) it is useful to remember that move jigsaw files are usually about 15–20 mm, You need to read this value for your instrument in the instructions or determine it yourself. Material thicker than this size should only be sawed with divorce teeth Otherwise shavings will not be completely removed, which can lead to overheating and jamming of the canvas.
- Between the working surface of the table and sole jigsaw can lay a sheet of dense rubber, Having previously made a cut for the file. Assemble the table and let the canvas work a little idle, so that the canvas “grinds” to the slot in the rubber. This will protect moving units of an inverted jigsaw from a large number sawdust, for which it is not designed, because in normal mode the tool designers clearly did not count on such a number of them.
- Protective glasses - necessary. You also need to organize the device to be turned on via pedal or provide another way instant turning off the tool. But this is a topic for another article.
- Do not be afraid creatively think and improve your tools, because any idea - just a starting point for creativity, and universal there are no solutions.
For more information on making a jigsaw table, see video:
An electric jigsaw is an extremely useful tool, without which many operations on processing wood and wood-based materials are simply impossible to imagine today. Possessing a relatively small weight and compactness, manual jigsaw allows you to cut out products of rather complex configurations from workpieces, but still, sometimes it would be more convenient to use a stationary tool. It is often more convenient for them to work, and the machine also provides more accurate cutting. True, such a machine costs several times more. manual jigsaw. Those who don’t want to spend extra money on this equipment can make a jigsaw table with their own hands and get an inexpensive and effective hybrid as a result hand tools and the machine.
Figure 1. Diagram of a jigsaw table.
The simplest device
Some kind of table for a jigsaw can be made in a few minutes. The advantage of this design is its simplicity. It is easily mounted on a workbench or tabletop and can be easily disassembled if necessary. The disadvantage can be considered its small area.
The working surface of the machine will be laminated plywood, in which holes are drilled for sawing and for installing fasteners. The thickness of the plywood should not be less than 10 mm. You may also need to prepare holes in the base of the power tool for mounting screws. The structure is attached to the workbench with clamps. The heads of the mounting screws must be flush with the plane of the sheet. Such a machine can easily cope with cutting small workpieces up to 30 mm thick. What the device looks like is shown in Figure 1.
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Second option
Another stationary device for working with wood consists of more parts, but it is also not difficult to make. The table frame consists of 2 sidewalls and a back wall made of chipboard. The machine does not have a front wall to make it easy to reach the button. IN back wall holes are drilled for the cord and tube of the vacuum cleaner. The machine cover is made of laminated 10 mm plywood. The entire structure is tightened with confirmations. The jigsaw is attached in the same way as in the first case.
Figure 2. Diagram of a frame-support for a jigsaw.
Using a homemade machine, you can cut larger workpieces, but when working with thick wood, the jigsaw blade may tilt back and in both directions. This degrades cutting accuracy. The disadvantage is eliminated by installing homemade machine support bracket (Figure No. 2). The jigsaw blade will move between 2 11mm bearings, which are screwed to the L-shaped steel strip with screws. The back of the file will rest on the wall of the bracket. This design will not allow the jigsaw working blade to deviate from the specified plane.
The bracket is attached to a frame made of birch bars 50 x 50 mm. It can be raised or lowered depending on the thickness of the material being processed and the length of the file. To do this, the frame with the stop is not tightly attached to the side of the machine, but is pressed against it with a steel, hardboard or textolite plate. Vertical stand The birch frame is located between the frame and the hardboard, into which 4 clamping bolts are inserted.
The area of the countertop depends on the size of the workpieces you are going to work with.
The machine can be made more perfect by installing a limit bar on it, which will help cut wood into pieces of the same thickness.
The limiter can be attached to the machine with clamps. It is made from wooden block, steel or aluminum corner. If desired, the bar can be installed on a slide attached to the bottom or sides of the tabletop. You can make 2 parallel slots in the tabletop along which the slats will move. Holes are drilled in it. Studs or screws with wing nuts are passed through them and the slots. Tape measures are attached to the ends of the tabletop.
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Table made of bars and chipboard
Figure 3. Diagram of a tabletop for a jigsaw.
The manufacture of this table requires certain carpentry skills, since the connections between its frame and legs are made in a tongue and groove manner. However, you can use dowels, wood glue and screws instead. The machine cover will be liftable to provide easier access to the tool when dismantling it. Figure 3 shows what the countertop looks like. If desired, you can provide space for installing a manual milling machine, then the machine will become multifunctional.
The table is made from:
- bars 80 x 80 mm;
- bars 40 x 80 mm;
- Laminated chipboard or laminated plywood 900 x 900 mm.
The distance between the legs can be from 600 to 700 mm. The bars for the drawers and legs are obtained after longitudinal sawing of the 80 x 80 bars. You can choose the height of the legs yourself, based on how convenient it will be to work on the machine. At each end of the frame and legs, 2 holes are drilled for dowels. Corresponding holes are made on the sides of the legs. The dowels are coated with glue half their length and inserted into the ends. After this, the frame is assembled in rough form. After correcting possible shortcomings, it is finally tightened. All contact surfaces are lubricated with glue before assembly. Additional strength of the structure will be given by self-tapping screws, which are screwed through holes prepared in advance for them.
The lid is attached to one of the drawers on hinges; for this purpose, a slot is made in it to facilitate installation and removal of the jigsaw. 2 strips with a selected quarter are screwed to the back of the tabletop, which will include the sole of the power tool. Holes are made in the strips into which clamping screws or bolts will be installed. A jigsaw mounted under the tabletop will be able to process thicker workpieces if a recess is made in the lid for its sole. The easiest way to make it is with a milling machine. The table turned out to be quite spacious, so a large thickness of plywood or chipboard can provide sufficient strength to its lid. Use 20mm or thicker sheets.
A jigsaw is an electromechanical tool that is used for cutting materials made of wood, fiberboard, chipboard, plastic and even thin metal. Work using a jigsaw is carried out by holding it in the hand; it is used to make a cut according to a drawing previously outlined on the workpiece. Who has ever done this work, knows what's perfect smooth cut It is almost impossible to do this this way. It’s more convenient and efficient to do this work with a jigsaw on a special table, which you can easily make with your own hands.
Making your own jigsaw table
You can buy a stand for an electric jigsaw in hardware stores or order online, but making it yourself will be much cheaper, and this table will definitely be more practical, since you will make it taking into account the dimensions you need.
The dimensions of the future table largely depend on the size of the parts that will be manufactured, and on usable area premises where it will be installed.
First you need to draw a sketch of the future table. You can do this yourself or download the drawing from a website on the Internet. The finished drawing will indicate the dimensions and materials used in the manufacture of the equipment.
We present one of the options for drawing a table for working on it electric jigsaw
Having a drawing, you need to prepare tools and consumables to begin work on making a jigsaw table.
Attention! For more accurate production of parts of the same size, we add two perpendicular cuts to the frame in relation to the 25 cm long blade and strengthen the guide stop.
Tool and material
Let's prepare the following tool:
- screwdriver or drill;
- electric jigsaw;
- wood drills (3.5, 6, 8, 10 mm);
- hammer;
- chisel;
- roulette;
- level;
- sanding paper.
Material for making the model:
- USB plate (18 mm);
- wooden beam (120 x 25 x 400 and 60 x 40 x 1400);
- wood screws (4 x 45) 35 pcs.;
- bolts 8 x 30 (for attaching the jigsaw to the frame), 8 x 60 (for attaching the bracket to the frame), 8 x 80 (for attaching the guide hacksaw blade), 8 x 30 (for mounting bearings);
- nuts – 10 pcs.;
- washers – 10 pcs.;
- bearings – 2 pcs.;
- aluminum corners 25 x 25 x 80 – 2 pcs.
Work on manufacturing table parts and assembling it
- Making a table frame for those who are a little familiar with carpentry will not be special labor. From a USB sheet using an electric jigsaw, according to the sketch drawn on the sheet, cut out the parts for making the frame. We assemble the box according to the drawing.
- Holes are drilled for mounting the jigsaw and the output of the hacksaw blade. An electric jigsaw is installed.
- The center is measured along the canvas, and the bracket guide is attached to the side of the box.
- The bracket rod, as shown in the figure, does not have holes for fastening, but slots for changing its height in accordance with the length of the blade used.
Let's take a closer look at the manufacture of a bracket for a guide cutting hacksaw:
- We make an elbow (vertical lever), which is attached to a guide with slots for moving the bracket in height and removing the upper part to connect the second part of the part.
- The horizontal arm consists of a bar with a tenon at one end to connect to the vertical arm and guide block for centering the hacksaw blade.
- We connect all the parts into a block and make a precise adjustment of the equipment so that movement cutting blade had a free easy movement.
Important! We do not neglect the installation of a protective block with plexiglass, since it serves as a barrier in case of unauthorized falling out of the blade during operation of the mechanism and prevents injury.
The assembled workbench for working with a jigsaw is checked while working with various materials. If any design flaws are identified, they are eliminated.
To cut materials with different densities and viscosities, specific blades are used for each type. In addition, the optimal speed of the tool is selected to prevent overheating of the blade.