For outdoor recreation, you need lightweight things that can be compactly folded for transportation and instantly returned to their original position. And the first piece of such furniture is a table where you can place prepared food and drinks. The compact product can be easily placed in the trunk to be taken with you to the country house, outdoors, etc.
A table where you can place prepared food and drinks.
The folding design has its own characteristics. Do convenient option making a picnic is quite simple if you have the skills to work wood and assemble the parts at home.
The compact product can be easily placed in the trunk to take with you to the country house, nature, etc.
To be able to set up a picnic area, you don’t have to resort to buying special furniture. It is much cheaper to make a folding structure with your own hands. Besides, table, assembled independently, is usually thought out to the smallest detail and has the design that you like best.
The folding design has its own characteristics.
Wooden blocks and plywood can be purchased in the specialized department of any hardware store.
If you make it small folding table with your own hands, you can give it an original look - paint it in any color or varnish it. The legs are attached to the main fabric using elements that are found in any home.
Making a convenient picnic option is quite easy if you have the skills to work wood and assemble the parts at home.
To be able to set up a picnic area, you don’t have to resort to buying special furniture.
Deciding on design and construction
A folding picnic table is made in different styles and from various materials. Hence there are many design and construction options. You can make furniture entirely from wood (solid, chipboard or slats), light aluminum, plastic, combine plywood (tabletop) and metal (legs), etc.
It is much cheaper to make a folding structure with your own hands.
The shape of the tabletop can be round, square or rectangular. The picnic table is made on frames that can be easily folded or brought into the desired position during use.
In order to make a folding table for equipping a picnic area, you need to adjust all the parts to size.
The legs in this design play main role. Correct calculation of the length and installation of fasteners will ensure the convenience of folding the table into a compact position and stability when unfolding.
In addition, a table that you assemble yourself is usually thought out to the smallest detail and has the design that you like best.
Necessary materials
To make the simplest version of the table, you will need:
- thick plywood board 550 x 300 mm (1 pc.);
- bars for legs 700 mm long (4 pcs.);
- bars for crossbars 450 mm long (2 pcs.);
- cross bars for securing legs 500 mm long (4 pcs.);
- sandpaper;
- bolts;
- nuts;
- washers;
- nails.
During manufacturing, you can give the product any tabletop shape, but it is more convenient to use a traditional rectangular one.
With the help of a drawing it will be easier to follow the planned project.
If you make a small folding table with your own hands, you can give it an original look - paint it in any color or varnish it.
Required Tools
Assembling the future table is easy if you have all the necessary tools at hand:
- hacksaw;
- jigsaw;
- screwdriver or screwdriver.
The legs are attached to the main fabric using elements that are found in any home.
Using a screwdriver you can make a model much faster and without much effort.
Tabletop size at self-production You can choose your own, designed for 2, 4 or 6 people.
How to make: step-by-step instructions
Before starting work, do detailed drawing the whole table and its parts indicating the length, height, width. Try to make the parameters of the product proportionate. With the help of a drawing it will be easier to follow the planned project.
In order to make a folding table for equipping a picnic area, you need to adjust all the parts to size. Wooden blocks and plywood can be purchased in the specialized department of any hardware store.
The legs play a major role in this design.
At home, check the length and proportionality of the elements again. Let the workpieces be a little larger; the difference can be eliminated at home using a hacksaw and a jigsaw. After trimming, process all parts sandpaper. It is advisable to slightly round the corners of the tabletop using a jigsaw.
- Connect the legs with crossbars at a distance of approximately 25-30 cm from each other using bolts or ordinary nails.
- Screw the crossbars to the back of the tabletop.
- Secure the finished frame legs crosswise using bolts and connect one at the top to the crossbars, leaving the other free.
Try to make the parameters of the product proportionate.
To make the table more stable, make the supports slightly beveled at the bottom and top.
The picnic table is made on frames that can be easily folded or brought into the desired position during use.
The height of the table can be made smaller or larger, depending on your preferences. To do this, measure the length of the bars for the support frames of the appropriate length. Try to make sure that the aspect ratio of the tabletop and
To make a structure from other materials, self-tapping screws may be needed.
The finished structure can be painted or coated with a double layer of varnish, transparent or with a wood tint to choose from.
The shape of the tabletop can be round, square or rectangular.
To prevent dishes and other accessories from rolling off the table when tilted, you can add edges to the surface. To do this, take thin, low bars and secure them to the tabletop with nails.
Using a screwdriver you can make a model much faster and without much effort
The edges of the upper part can be decorated in relief. Using a jigsaw will help you with this, then clean the edges with sandpaper.
Hence there are many design and construction options.
Similar to wood, can be made plastic construction or combined, where the supports will be made of light metal.
Before starting work, make a detailed drawing of the whole table and its parts, indicating the length, height, width.
To create a picnic set in the same style, it is recommended to assemble several folding chairs to the table. These compact products will greatly reduce space and will be convenient for transportation if you are going with your family or a group of friends to spend a day off in nature. During the off-season, they can be put away in the pantry until next spring or summer.
Folding picnic tables come in a variety of styles and materials.
VIDEO: DIY plywood picnic table. Part 1.
Do-it-yourself wooden folding table, drawings, diagrams, detailed description of the product, the peculiarity of which is the rim at the bottom of the tabletop, where the assembled legs are hidden.
Let's look at the table design in section, which shows the assembly units of the product:
1.
Table cover (table top).
2.
Side (supporting frame).
3.
Legs.
Table drawing and its main dimensions shown in the figure.
TABLE COVER
The tabletop is made of glued wooden planks connected to each other by a rail. A “U” shaped aluminum furniture profile measuring 2 x 20 x 20 (mm) is fixed around the perimeter of the lid.
Reference:
When connected wooden parts furniture board on the rail, the following dimensions should be adhered to:
A– width of a wooden furniture panel
S– thickness of a wooden furniture panel
So– thickness of the shield after machining
Sp– allowance for machining
Sh– edge thickness
Si– thickness of the groove and rack
L– rail width
Li– groove depth
A = 12…150(mm)
So = S – 2 Sp = A…⅓ A = 12…60(mm)
Sp = 2…3(mm)
Sh = Si = ⅓ So
L = So
Li = ½ L + 1..2mm
BEARING FRAME
Comprises:
1.
Transverse tsar.
2.
Longitudinal king.
3.
Confirmat 7 x 50 (mm).
The inner surface of the transverse drawer along its entire length is planed at an angle of 10°. On the inside of the longitudinal drawer, two recesses are milled for attaching metal corners. We connect the longitudinal and transverse drawers to each other with euroscrews (confirmats).
LEGS
Consist of:
1.
Leg.
2.
Crossbars.
The crossbars are made of wooden cuttings Ø 16 (mm), which are inserted with a slight interference fit into the holes of the legs; a thin layer of glue is first applied to the contact surface of the parts.
DIY wooden folding table or assembly procedure according to drawings:
1.
Let's prepare the necessary material.
2.
Let's make assembly parts.
3.
Let's assemble the assembly units.
4.
We will carry out finishing processing of the assembly units and apply a decorative paint coating.
5.
Using countersunk wood screws 3.5 x 16 (mm), we attach four metal corners 26 x 26 x 30 (mm) to the supporting frame.
6.
We attach the legs to the supporting frame, with a slight tension, using furniture bolts with a semicircular head and a square headrest 10 x 50...60 (mm) according to the “bolt – washer – nut” pattern.
The figure shows the design of the supporting frame with folded legs.
The figure shows the design of the supporting frame with legs unfolded.
7. We screw the tabletop to the metal corners using countersunk wood screws 3.5 x 12 (mm).
The wooden folding table is assembled. And yet, in this design it is possible to provide leg clamps. Send us your thoughts, all ideas will be published on the pages of our website in compliance with copyright.
How to make folding legs for a table.
Folding tables, or tables with folding legs
usually used in special cases. Main
the purpose of using such tables is saving
places. The table can be made folding, in the form
table "book" or with folding legs.
If the folded “book” table remains indoors,
then a table with folding legs is usually put away in the pantry.
Therefore, the appearance and design of such tables can be noticeably
differ.
You may be wondering why the table in the photo has such a strange shape.
countertops? The fact is that this table has a rather narrow specialization.
It serves as an additional insert between two round tables, see
article round table on one leg.
When all three tables are moved together
the resulting tabletop surface is 950 mm wide. and a length of almost 3000 mm. .
When making folding legs, the shape of the tabletop does not play a special role,
therefore, you can make legs for a regular table in the same way
with a rectangular tabletop.
The total length of the tabletop is 2000 mm. , width 950 mm. . If we exclude acute
"tails" the length of the table will be 1050 mm.
DIY wooden folding table drawings
Table height 760 mm.
Of course, you can make a tabletop of any size you need.
When calculating the legs you need to look at two positions, this is the total height of the table
and tabletop overhangs. Here the table is wide, so the overhangs are 100 mm long. .
And yet, the distance between the legs cannot be less than the length of the legs, otherwise
the legs just won't fit into place.
How to make a small table with folding legs, Look
article coffee table.
Table legs.
The legs are made in the form of frames assembled on spikes, the material is birch.
Frames made of bars 60 mm wide. and 30 mm thick. . It turns out
classic assembly, upper horizontal jumper - drawer,
the bottom one is a prong.
To attach the legs, I installed two transverse ones on the bottom of the tabletop.
bar.
The width of the bars should not be less than the width of the legs, i.e. 30 mm. .
The thickness of one bar is 20 mm. , another 50 mm. . The difference in thickness is 30 mm.
necessary so that the folded legs do not interfere with each other.
For this table, one pair of legs is 750 mm wide.
and height 720 mm. .
The other leg is 750 mm wide. and height 690 mm. . This is based on thickness
table tops 20 mm. , let me remind you that the total height of the table is 760 mm. .
The legs are attached to the cross bars with piano hinges. Loops are needed
drown so that the legs, when unfolded, rest against the entire edge
into the edges of the bars. If the legs hang on hinges, then the table will turn out to be
very unstable.
In order for the table to be stable, the legs must be unfastened.
Shown here
the simplest option. Birch board 100 mm wide. with cuts on
the thickness of the legs and the depth of the cut are 50 mm. . The legs are made the same way
cuts in the middle of the top edge with a depth of 10 mm. .
A table assembled in this way stands rigidly under lateral loads,
but when longitudinal, it walks slightly due to the flexibility of the legs.
For the little one
table, one transverse leg may be enough for a large
It is better to strengthen the table fastening.
As a matter of fact, when installing this table, it is clamped at the ends with two
quite massive round tables, and therefore it’s easy for him to walk
nowhere. Actually, I wanted to make a more complex and rigid structure.
Not only tables and chairs can be folding, see how to do it
flower shelves from a stepladder.
In another version, another transverse frame is glued. This frame is also
installed on hinges from the bottom of the tabletop and when unfolding the table
falls out between the legs. In this case, the thickness of the transverse bars on which
legs are attached, it is necessary to increase it so that the central frame
fit under the frames of the legs. In this case, the legs must be installed
retainers.
The simplest fastener is a self-tapping screw or confirmat which
twists from the outside, through the leg into the end of the central frame.
Another option, instead of one large longitudinal central frame, make
two drawers that fall out, here you also need to think about fixing the drawer
to the legs.
Instead of all this, you can install two slopes, from below from the middle
tabletops are again attached to the legs, the slopes are also attached
to the tabletop on hinges.
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How to make chipboards with chipboards with your own hands
At the beginning we had a “small” factory computer desk, which was adopted in Prague.
But over time, we realize that this table in our small room takes up too much space (more than a meter from the wall). I had to cut it into pieces and make a night table for it.
And at this point, for gathering here, there is such a simple little folding table that can be folded on demand, freeing up space in the room. I don't mind bad calendars, I covered them (during a photography session) with a hole in the wall that had a permanent CRT monitor on it.
This is actually the size of our counters for clarity only and these sizes and shapes are strictly not followed.
The sheet was purchased at OBI, I don’t know, but, in my opinion, it was originally 90x60 cm. And after the blade rounded the edges and cut a small niche behind the back of the chairs, the table dimensions became 90x56 cm.
Then, with sandpaper, wrap the stick around the sanded ends of this sheet. After this, the red back is painted, except for the back side, as it will be attached to it.
The table was attached to the wall with a 45x45 mm stick because the wall is very soft (chalk) and not entirely level.
There are four self-locking screws on the wall, approximately 8-10 cm long. The screws are screwed into the base so that the self-tapping screws do not stick. After the iron is pulled to the wall, the steaks are held together by gluing glue. Before having a CRT monitor, this column served as a small window frame, which was parked in an upright position, in special pockets for the heater, mouse and keyboard.
The hanging loop was attached to the counter and then to a stick on the wall.
The counter edge of the counter is supported by two pieces of such chains at the edges.
The length of these segments is selected by hooks on the wall and corners on the table. This means that the table is built strictly horizontally (flat), and then we measure the length of the chains.
Some such 3.5mm thick hooks were wrapped into the wall through the feet.
Why the hooks did not impress me with their appearance, to secure the chain on the table, I decided to use a regular railway angle located under the table.
The first was drilled with a 2-3 meter drill with a series of holes in the table, then with the same drill, a diagonal bridge was selected between the holes. Upon return, the holes with the exposed file were trimmed slightly. Thus, we received two longitudinal holes for the corners in the dsp. Before fixing the corners under the table, the turnips rounded the file (the one that is always in the front) at the corners.
Then remove one link from the chain and place it on the corner.
The massage does not touch the back of the head (if you are sitting with your back to it).
The tin here is curved, there is no twisted roll. Why is the stand held vertically and at the same time at a certain distance from the wall, which is parallel to the wall. It works great and is quite reliable.
After purchasing this LCD screen (by the way, there is a photo with the old monitor in aperture), the table stopped to be folded because the new monitor was gigantic and did not hang in the wall.
Thus, this new Bank has always settled on this table. They also had to cut a small wall to make the monitor wall move a little longer than it was installed.
If you decide to draw the same or similar folding table, think about the expected loading in advance.
For example, if you want to jump or sit on it, then it is better to take the chain right away, so it is advisable that the links on it are sealed.
DIY transformer table
The same applies to the rest of the structure, hooks, corners, loops and table, which can be cut thicker and stronger.
Overall the table is very attractive and doesn't bother with legs because it has no legs.
If the so-called window threshold (bar) runs a little larger, you can switch it in front of this LCD screen as well. Also at the bottom of the table (bottom) you can adhere or anchor an image or poster, preferably following the contours of the table (so to speak, for harmony). After lifting the table, you don't have to admire the clean and boring surface of the chipboard. Thus, like the button, it is possible that two birds with one stone, in the composite state, the image is displayed, and in the disassembled state the grass of the table is straight for its immediate purpose.
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We make a camp table with our own hands - and off to nature
When someone starts talking about the “approaching” of the tourist or fishing season, it only makes us smile.
Avid tourists and fishermen do not recognize any seasons - any weather is good. The main desire. You can sit with a fishing rod, even over a hole in the ice, or on the green shore of a lake, laying out snacks and strong drinks nearby - not on the ground, of course, and not on the ice. A table is definitely needed, and it’s compact and light. And it’s best to make such a camp table with your own hands.
We suggest making a camp table like this
They are sold in many, but we need:
- True to size, not standard.
- Inexpensive.
- Multipurpose.
The optimal size when unfolded seemed to us to be: length 1000 mm, width 580 mm and height 530 mm.
When folded, it looks like a suitcase with dimensions, respectively: 580x500x80 mm. The pictures show a rough, unprocessed version, but we will now figure out how to make it.
Folded camp table
List of required materials
Everything here is extremely simple, because we are making a camp table, not a formal one.
Therefore, we take plywood 10 mm thick and a birch block with a section of 30x30 mm. We cut two 500x580 mm tabletops from plywood, and cut the block as follows:
- 500 mm – 8 pieces, table legs and overhead parts of the frame for the tabletop.
- 520 mm – 4 pieces, internal parts of the frame for the tabletop.
Open table
Since we have the bare minimum of fittings and fasteners, we’ll buy them at the same time so we don’t have to go to the store twice:
- Self-tapping screws 4x25 mm
- Self-tapping screws 4x50 mm.
- The hinges are butterfly, with a span of 60x60 mm.
- Furniture padded hooves, not angular, plastic - 4 pieces.
- Furniture iron handle.
If you have a handle from an old bag that folds, you can use it.
- Suitcase latches. They are not sold in furniture fittings, and in the leather goods accessories department. You can also use locks removed from any used suitcase or old sewing machine. We took it from a compact film projector.
- Furniture screws (or bolts, if you already have them in your household) 8x70 mm – 4 pieces.
- Nuts are wing nuts, respectively M8 – 4 pieces.
Use of fittings and fasteners
To make a camp table with your own hands in a rough version, you need the bare minimum of tools.
We won’t highlight it as separate items – we’ll take it out of the closet as needed.
Rough assembly of a camp table
We assemble the frames by tightening them with 4x50 mm screws, one for each corner.
In the outer parts of the frame, it is advisable to drill through holes with a diameter of 5 millimeters for them, so as not to split the block. Such fasteners for frames are quite enough - the main load will be taken by the plywood tabletop.
We screw it to the frames with 4x25 mm self-tapping screws, also having previously drilled the plane with a five-point drill and countersunk it.
For screws (bolts) we drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm in the overhead parts of the frame, retreating along inner corner 15x15 mm. They should coincide with similar holes in the legs.
Before installing the butterfly loops, we stuff the legs as seen in the picture.
They should not overlap each other when the tabletop is unfolded - why the additional thickness? We also fasten the hinges with 4x25 mm self-tapping screws, simply putting the table halves together. We drill for the handle - and the table in the rough version is ready, but!
Stuffed legs should not touch each other
Processing a camp table
It’s wonderful that everything has coincided with us and is developing and unfolding so wonderfully.
For now, this process can only be enjoyed at home, in a dry, well-ventilated area. In this form, our table will withstand two, maximum three excursions into nature.
Afterwards you will have to make a new one, which is quite a shame.
The camp table is ready, but it still needs to be processed
Water is present everywhere and is friendly with wood only as long as the tree clings to the ground with its roots.
Swelling, blackening, etc. – it’s disgusting to even place a can of worms on a deformed table. Therefore, we will process it and at the same time strengthen it slightly.
There is no need to grind the parts until they are perfectly smooth; the main thing is to get rid of potential splinters.
But it should be coated and painted with exemplary care - so that it serves for a long time and properly.
For anti-putrefactive and antiseptic treatment, we recommend Pinotex and any of its derivatives.
With it you will not only protect wood and plywood, but also tint the table in the chosen color - there are a lot of options.
We recommend soaking the ends of all bars and plywood countertops with drying oil before final varnishing. To do this, you need to heat the drying oil in a water bath to maximum fluidity (do not try to do this over an open fire or boil it!), and literally rub it with a hard brush into all water-absorbing edges.
After this, dry all the parts thoroughly and proceed to varnishing.
There is no need to “drench” the surface with varnish – it also needs to be rubbed in.
How to make a folding table with your own hands: 2 master classes
It is better to cover two or three times. You have already understood how to make a camping table, all you have to do is realize that this necessary and convenient item will actually go with you on multi-day hikes. And no one will offer him vodka with pepper or tea with raspberries when he gets sick - the table must be dressed in an impenetrable “space suit” in advance.
Properly decorated and treated, it will serve you for many years.
And by the way: Not only legs fit inside it. And the wife will never go looking for a stash in something so unglamorous.
A do-it-yourself round sliding door solves the problem of lack of space in the kitchen or living room.
Of course, such furniture can be purchased at finished form, choosing from a wide range. However, this is expensive and does not always fit perfectly into tight spaces.
Make a table different sizes you can do it yourself. Moreover, depending on your existing carpentry skills, you can select a drawing of varying degrees of design complexity.
For small spaces where a dining table is installed (kitchen, living room or separate dining room), The round design looks practical and attractive. It takes up less space and allows you to comfortably fit around.
Problems begin when a significant number of family members and guests gather around the dinner table. Oversized furniture simply does not fit in a cramped room.
Sliding design eliminates the problem. Its essence is as follows. In its normal state it looks like a small round table for 3-4 people. It is easy to move and install in a new location.
If necessary, transformation is carried out - it moves apart, acquiring the shape of an oval. Inserts help create a significantly larger surface area.
Reference: This table can already accommodate 8-10 people.
The simplest system has a tabletop divided in half, the halves of which can move along guide elements in opposite sides.
The gap in the area where the halves diverge is filled with special inserts to preserve the integrity of the tabletop. When assembled, the inserts are located inside and are invisible to others.
Important: The final capacity of an extended table depends on the distance that the elements can be moved without compromising its stability.
In order for the design in question to work reliably, the following must be met: requirements:
- sufficient strength of the tabletop with maximum expansion;
- ensuring the required capacity and ease of use;
- assembly and disassembly without unnecessary effort by one person;
- opportunity practical use the entire surface of the extended tabletop;
- mobility;
- ease of making with your own hands;
- low cost;
- external attractiveness.
Wood or plastic?
Selection of materials for homemade table due to their availability and appearance. Particular attention is paid to the tabletop. It can be made from the following materials:
In addition to the tabletop, the table must stand securely on. For their manufacture, wooden beams are most often used.
Advice: can also be used for them metallic profile In particular, an aluminum flat pipe, corner or U-shaped profile looks modern.
Drawings and assembly diagram
Work on making a table begins with the development or selection of a project. Required Assembly drawing and detailing.
Schematic diagram sliding table 
General drawing of an extendable table Unlike a regular table, sliding design the base of the table top is firmly fixed to the legs, and the main tabletop is mounted movably on it and consists of two halves. The base is made in the form of a frame connecting the legs together with collets.
To ensure the movement of the tabletop, guides are permanently installed on it. It is recommended to use standard guide strips for full rollout drawers. Additional elements that slide along guides are attached to the main tabletop below. Depending on the length of the maximum rollout the number of additional elements is 1-3 pieces.
Important: the length of the slats must be at least 35 cm.
After fixing the tabletop halves in the extreme position, the resulting gap is filled with rectangular inserts. In the simplest design, they are simply removed from storage and installed manually. To prevent displacement, furniture pins are used. In more complex structures lifting mechanisms are installed that automatically lift the inserts to the level of the countertop surface.
Tools
When making a wooden table with your own hands, you should prepare the following tool:
If using plywood you will need electric jigsaw . Grinding and emery cloth are used to treat surfaces. Measurements and quality control are provided with a tape measure, metal ruler, caliper, plumb line and building level.
How to make and assemble?
The dimensions of the finished table are determined by the number of people planned to be accommodated. Standard height is 72-75 cm.
Assembly diagram The size of the tabletop is selected based on the condition - 60-65 cm per “eater”. Manufacturing and assembly is carried out in the following order:
Final assembly involves inserting the tabletop guides into the grooves of the base guides. Next, if necessary, extension limiters are installed.
Finishing
The table should have an attractive appearance, which is ensured by the finishing. First of all, the end is processed. To avoid scratching on a sharp edge, it is recommended to remove a small chamfer.
The end itself is ground to eliminate the risk of splinters. The entire surface of the tabletop is also processed. It should be perfectly flat, horizontal and smooth.
Important: most common methods finishing– painting and varnishing.
After sanding the surface, the wood can be impregnated with tinting compounds that will create a specific shade and emphasize the wood structure. A layer of varnish will seal the finish. With the help of alkyd paints, you can provide almost any color of furniture for combination with other interior elements.
Another common option is self-adhesive film. It is often used to finish chipboard countertops. With its help you can simulate various natural materials- wood, a natural stone, marble, metal, etc. Inlay or veneering adds special sophistication to the table.
Photo
Depending on the materials used and imagination, you can get completely different results:
Useful video
The main stages of manufacturing with a detailed description sliding mechanism can be seen in the following video:
Conclusion
A round extendable table is well suited for small kitchens. When assembled, it does not take up much space, and when extended, it allows you to accommodate all family members and guests. With little carpentry skills, you can make such furniture yourself. This will avoid significant costs and optimally fit the table into a cramped space.
In contact with
In everyday life, a small table fully meets the needs of a family of 3-4 people. This table is successfully used both as a kitchen and as a dining table. The situation changes dramatically when guests arrive. Many people have a desire to make an extendable table with their own hands.
Any table is not a very simple structure, which must withstand significant loads and frequent movements around the apartment. Despite certain difficulties, anyone who is familiar with carpentry can make an extendable table with their own hands. There are many designs of sliding and folding tables. You just need to realistically evaluate which of them you can do yourself.
Step-by-step instructions: design basics
Any table consists of a tabletop, legs and fasteners. Sliding (folding) structures additionally contain removable or movable tabletop inserts and a sliding mechanism. The shape of the tabletops can be round (oval when extended) or square (rectangular).
The main requirements for the design are the strength of the tabletop and the reliability of the legs, which should allow it to withstand loads (including shock) and be stable when used while cooking or dining. In addition, the surface should be comfortable and practical.
The size of the table is determined mainly by the dimensions of the room and the number of guests who can sit down at the same time. Height dining table usually 73 cm. Dimensions when extended can be calculated based on the condition that the optimal distance for one person at the table is 60-70 cm.
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Selection of base materials
If you decide to make a table with your own hands, you should decide on the material for the main elements. The aesthetic impression of the table design is mainly provided by the tabletop. In addition, it may be exposed to moisture, fat and other active substances used during cooking; may be affected by increased temperature from hot foods; Significant mechanical loads may be applied. Wooden countertops are quite reliable, environmentally friendly, practical and aesthetically pleasing, but they are also expensive and difficult to manufacture.
The most widely used wood for countertops is pine, oak and walnut. When using wood, it should be thoroughly dried and treated with moisture-proofing compounds. If applied to a surface natural wood, then it must be periodically polished and also coated with varnish or wax.
A simple, cheap, but fairly reliable tabletop is made from laminated chipboard with a thickness of at least 20 mm. The ends of the slabs are rounded and coated protective material, for example, silicone or polyvinyl chloride film. Such plates can be additionally coated with plastic. The big disadvantage of this material is swelling when moisture gets into the thickness of the material. In other respects, this material is quite capable of competing with wood.
You can make table legs yourself, or you can purchase ready-made ones. The most common option is wooden block legs. Minimum dimensions the bars are 40x40 mm. For large tables, timber should be used bigger size. So, for a table with a length (when extended) of about 2 m, a beam with a cross-section of 85x85 mm is recommended. The legs can be square, round or carved depending on the wishes and capabilities of the manufacturer.
In addition to wooden legs, metal legs are also used. For example, you can purchase ready-made metal legs in the form of a pipe with a diameter of 70-90 mm. You can make steel or aluminum legs yourself from pipes and various profiles.
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Extensible table design
One of the simplest designs of an extendable table is based on increasing the size by expanding the surface and laying additional elements. The main tabletop consists of two parts that are not connected to the legs and have the ability to move longitudinally in opposite directions from each other.
The sliding structure consists of the following main parts: base; main tabletop, consisting of two identical parts; full roll-out guides; additional panels. The base is made in the form of a frame that connects the legs to each other using jumpers (collets), and a top panel that resembles a tabletop in appearance, but is fixed to the legs.
Each part of the main tabletop consists of the surface itself and three sidewalls attached to it. It is recommended to make the drawer mechanism from standard full rollout guides for drawers. It is necessary to purchase two sets of guides with a length of at least 30 cm. Additional elements of the tabletop are made similarly to the main surface and have a length equal to the width of the tabletop, and their width is determined by the length of the extension. The number of elements can be from 1 to 3 at the discretion of the manufacturer.
The operating principle of the design is very simple: both parts of the main tabletop are mixed in guides fixed to the table base until they stop. In this case, the tabletop slides over the surface of the base. In the resulting space between the two parts, additional elements are installed, which, together with the main parts, create the appearance of a continuous tabletop.
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Making the base
The main function of the table base is to securely connect the table legs to each other and provide support for installing the table top. Tying the wooden legs into a single frame is done using wooden jumpers - collets. Collets are made of plywood or boards 10-12 cm wide and 18-20 mm thick. The length of the collets is determined by the selected table size when not extended.
To secure the collets, grooves are made in the upper part of the legs on two adjacent sides with a size corresponding to the cross-section of the collet, up to 20 mm deep. The ends of the collets are secured in the grooves. The joint is glued and secured with screws. To strengthen the connection of legs in heavy tables, it is recommended to additionally install wooden gussets at the connection points.
A sheet of plywood 10-12 mm thick is fixed on top of the frame. The size of the sheet is determined by the dimensions of the frame. The sheet is secured with screws. In its final form, the base is a table with a rough top. The top plywood sheet is not a necessary element, since the structure will work without it.
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Making the main table top
First, cutting and cutting out two parts of the tabletop of the selected sizes is carried out. If necessary, the surface is covered and the ends are sealed. At the inner end (which coincides with the end of the second part) of each part of the tabletop, two holes are drilled for the dowels of removable elements to fit into them. Hole diameter 8-10 mm.
A U-shaped box is made from the sidewalls, which is a strip of chipboard or a board 100-120 mm wide and 18-20 mm thick. The length of the sides corresponds to the dimensions of the table base, measured along the legs. The corners of the box are reinforced with aluminum corners on the inside.
On inside The narrow (reverse) parts of the guides are fixed to the side parts of the body so that the box can move at a height of about 2 mm above the plywood sheet of the table base (or the surface of the collets in the absence of a sheet).
A tabletop is installed on top of the box so that the cut of the tabletop coincides with the free ends of the box. Using aluminum corners, the tabletop and the frame are connected to each other.
Since the times of the USSR, such a piece of furniture as a table-book has been an integral part of everyday life in small apartments.
Over time, the product has undergone a number of changes, transforming into a mechanism with varying degrees of complexity of transformation.
Folding ones are presented on the furniture market in a variety of configurations, but their design is simple enough to make such a piece of furniture with your own hands.
The only difficulty may be the selection and fastening of the hinges.
When choosing a particular table configuration, the first thing to ask is: what will it be used for? The size of the product, materials, weight and type of folding structure depend on this. According to their purpose, folding tables can be divided into the following subtypes: 
- folding table-book for small apartments. If the apartment or small a private house does not provide for a dining area, this type of table will solve the problem of a large number of invited guests during holidays or family gatherings. It can be stored in any accessible place or serve as a wall cabinet for placing decorative elements;
- folding hiking tables for trips out of town, picnics, country events. The main features of these configurations are ease of assembly, light weight and portability. The basis for such tables is a durable but light base (for example, aluminum) and plywood;
- folding magazine tables located in the living room. Thanks to this type of table, it is easy to combine the dining and living areas while maintaining the functionality of the room. The disadvantages of such a table can be considered large weight and high cost. Typically, the folding system uses a mechanism that exceeds total cost materials several times;
- folding tables placed on small balconies or in small kitchens. Using special piano hinges, the tabletop is attached to the wall, thereby significantly saving space when folded.
Important! The classification of folding tables is quite extensive, but the above varieties are the most popular due to their versatility of use.
In addition, folding tables can be various shapes– round, oval, with rounded edges. Thanks to German and Austrian fittings, tables can be folded up, with pull-out parts. The power of the mechanism allows you to increase the structure by more than 5 times!
A folding table can be easily purchased in a store or ordered from a furniture company, but it will be much more interesting and profitable to make a table with your own hands.
For what?
The answer to this question is quite simple - you can choose the product model yourself.
IN furniture stores Only standard tables with fixed dimensions and colors are offered.
The most typical models may not be suitable in size for a particular home or may not fit into an existing furniture set based on the wood shade.
When contacting an organization where furniture is manufactured according to individual orders, you can count on developing a project that meets the customer’s wishes, but you should be prepared to pay quite a large amount for it.
Important! The price of the product will include not only the price of the material, but also a significant premium for manufacturing.
So, if there are a number of restrictions on choosing a table configuration, it is recommended to refer to the following instructions on how to make a folding table with your own hands.
How to make a folding one with your own hands?
Before you start making a book-table, you need to decide on its dimensions. The standard table height is 75 cm, which complies with ergonomic standards. However, this parameter can be adjusted to suit your needs, for example, if family members are very tall, or vice versa. In addition, portable country tables can be low-slung.
Next are the length and width. Standard table is 60 cm wide and a meter long. These dimensions are sometimes not enough to accept a large number of guests and arrange the dishes, so it is better to choose dimensions of 80 cm by 2 meters.
Making tool
- tape measure, measuring ruler, angle or protractor;
- pencil or marker;
- screwdriver with drills and attachments for confirmations;
- electric saw and cutting table;
- sandpaper;
- iron and hairdryer.
Materials and accessories
The most inexpensive material for making a book table is laminated chipboard . It can be sold in sheets or in parts, the cutting of which is offered as a service directly at the furniture factory.
You can also use blocks of wood, but they must be carefully processed. But plywood is not suitable for this model, since the table must be strong enough.
This article discusses a variant of a table made of chipboard. The material must be supplied with a PVC edge. Today, paper edging is no longer used due to its fragility.
In addition, the melamine self-adhesive edge withstands any load during operation.
IMPORTANT! Every millimeter of detail affects the stability of the table. So, chipboard is 18 and 16 mm thick, and the edge is 1 or 2 mm thick. You should pay attention to this when purchasing materials.
The color of the table is selected based on color range interior of an apartment or house. If the shade does not matter, it is better to stick to neutral tones of light wood. On dark pieces of furniture, chips, scratches, and blemishes stand out much more clearly.
As for accessories, you will need: 
- packaging of confirmations 5*70;
- packing of self-tapping screws 4*16;
- piano hinges 60 cm long – 2 pcs.;
- packaging of furniture corners;
- special thrust bearings that are attached to the table legs. They serve to better cushion the product and also protect the floor from scratches. The thickness of the thrust bearing can be adjusted from 0.5 mm to 1.5 cm;
- loops for attaching the legs to the base of the table, otherwise they are called “butterfly loops”. It is better to select loops with a span of at least 90 degrees.
Important! Laminated chipboard sheets, as a rule, have a size of 2.8 by 1.83 m. Such a sheet is enough to make two tables. If this amount of material is not required, you can find a factory or supplier that sells ½ sheets. Most often, this service is provided for the most popular chipboard colors - walnut, alder, birch or oak.
Also, when cutting the material, errors are always taken into account. The calculated area of material is multiplied by 1.3 percent to provide a margin in case of damage to parts or improper cutting.
Drawing and marking of parts
Before you start making a folding table yourself, you need to study (and, perhaps, make it yourself) the drawings of all the components. For the manufacture of a table of this type, laminated chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm and a melamine edge with a thickness of 0.5 mm were selected. The table consists of the following parts:
- tabletop for attaching legs and “wings” 20*80 cm;
- table sides (“wings”) 70*80 cm – 2 pcs. If the cut is made in a home workshop, the direction of the wood pattern is taken into account. It is desirable that the texture on all parts coincide as much as possible in the horizontal or vertical direction, then aesthetically the product will look more advantageous;
- table sides 73.3*20 cm – 2 pcs;
- table drawer (gives stability to the structure and is attached horizontally under the base) 72.7*15 cm – 2 pcs.;
- stands for legs 72.7 * 7 cm. For stability of the table, if there is a need to increase the dimensions, it is better to make the legs 10 cm each, but then the size of the tabletop also increases as a percentage;
- drawers for legs (prevent the legs from becoming loose during use) 50*7 cm – 4 pcs.
Important! The width of the tabletop is determined by calculating the thickness of the base legs and the thickness of the chipboard. If the size of the tabletop is smaller than necessary, the table will not fold.
After cutting, you need to make sure that the paired parts are the same size.
It is better to reduce the overall size of the table than to use legs of different heights or asymmetrical “wings”.
The shaky design and untidy appearance will make the product practically unusable.
Each part must be edge-glued as follows:
- The edge is applied to the end of the part with the adhesive side and ironed with a heated iron.
- While the edge is still warm, smooth the edge with a dry cloth. Due to this, the gluing will be uniform.
- The protruding edges of the edge are removed with a knife, and the edges are smoothed with sandpaper.
- For better adhesion of the edge and chipboard, it is recommended to blow the gluing with a hairdryer.
Assembly
After preparatory stage First, the table base is assembled, and then the larger parts.
The sizes of drillings for confirmations are as follows:
- through on a plane - 8 mm drill;
- at the ends 6 cm deep - a 5 mm drill.
The assembly process itself includes the following steps:
- In the central part of each sidewall, a vertical marking is made, which serves as the axis of fastening the drawers. The drawers are located perpendicular to the floor and tighten the sides of the table. The upper drawer is attached flush with the top of the structure, and the lower one is at a height of 5 cm from the floor. The tabletop is screwed on top of the furniture corners. The edges protruding beyond the sides should be the same.
- Piano hinges are screwed to the tabletop with a distance of 10 cm from the edge.
- The legs are twisted in the same way as the table base, but the drawers should be parallel to the floor. Using butterfly hinges, the table legs are attached to the base frame. The legs are screwed in such a way that they completely “go” under the base of the table. Approximately 6 cm should be removed from the edge.
- Then you need to turn the resulting structure over and screw on the “wings” of the table.
After assembling all parts, it is recommended to check the table for stability, on the mobility of the table legs and, if necessary, tighten the confirms more tightly or, conversely, loosen them. Dry the structure on the balcony or in the garage for one day.
Folding tables are easy to care for; just check the piano hinges and, if necessary, lubricate them with special oil.
Important! Chipboard surface wipe with soap or alcohol solutions.
If scratches form on the table, they can be easily removed by burning (even the most ordinary lighter will do) or furniture polish.
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Conclusion
The folding book table has been an excellent replacement for large kitchen tables for many decades. Unlike bulky structures, it is easy to rearrange and can be placed in an inconspicuous place in the apartment or taken out of town. Making a folding table with your own hands will help you save costs; you can choose the dimensions of the product yourself and choose the desired wood shade.
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