How to cut ceiling plinth. How to cut ceiling plinths with and without a miter box, photos, videos How to cut ceiling corners correctly

The quality of the ceiling finish greatly influences appearance premises. That’s why they try to do everything perfectly, or very close to it. The finishing touch to the design is the ceiling plinth. They give the finish a finished and holistic look. The planks themselves are easy to install on flat surfaces: using special glue white, but problems arise with the design of corners. Without knowing how to make the corner of a ceiling plinth correctly, a lot of material is spoiled. We’ll tell you how and with what to cut it in the corners.

What is it made of and what is it called?

The very first plinths on the ceiling were made of plaster. They were cast in special molds, then installed on the ceiling using mortar. Such figured decorations were called fillets. Today you can rarely see them: they are expensive, but in appearance they are almost no different from cheaper options. And this name is almost lost.

The most popular ceiling plinths today are made of polyurethane or polystyrene. They are inexpensive, look great, are easy to install, and have a wide range of profiles and designs. The width can be from 5 mm to 250 mm. They are used in almost any room, decorated in any style. Exception - Most often used here wooden crafts— style dictates its conditions.

There is also a similar plastic finish. It is mainly installed in bathrooms. But even in damp rooms you can safely install polyurethane strips - they are not afraid of dampness.

You need to cut ceiling plinths in corners from any material using one of the methods described below. The only exception is plastic skirting boards: You can create such a corner only using ready-made corners.

What and how to cut

Working with skirting boards from different materials involves the use of different cutting tools. When working with wooden ceiling plinths, it is more convenient to use a wood saw. All others, including plastic, foam and other polymers, are better cut with a metal blade. This results in a smoother cut and less burr. Saws are usually used when working with a miter box.

When working with foam baseboards without special devices cut them with a good stationery knife. Its blade is quite thin and even, the cut is smooth and not wrinkled. If you work with polyurethane or polystyrene with a saw, do not press hard: you can dent it.

In general, to get a little used to the tool and material, take a piece and practice on it: cutting, sawing, trimming. This way there will be fewer problems during work.

How to get the right angle

The most problems when working with ceiling skirting boards arise when decorating the corners. Since the surface of the products is complex, simply cutting at the desired angle will not work: it is also necessary to trim so that they fit together and, preferably, without large gaps. In fact, there are several ways to make the corner of the ceiling plinth ideal (or almost).

Using a miter box

If the corners and walls in the room are smooth, you can use a special carpentry tool- miter box. This is a gutter in the shape of an inverted letter “P”, in which lines are marked for cutting at an angle of 90° and 45°. The part to be cut is placed inside, and a saw is inserted into the guides. The part is held in place and cut at the required angle.

In the case of baseboards, not everything is so simple: they must simultaneously adhere to two surfaces, so they need to be pressed against one or the other wall of the miter box. When working with ceiling ones, they are pressed against the side closest to you.

Sequence of finishing actions external corner you need to make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Place the miter box in front of you. You try on how the plinth will be positioned, determining which part of it will be attached to the ceiling. In order not to get confused and to cut the ceiling plinth correctly, place the plank that will be located on the right on the right, and the one on the left on the left.

Press the part that ends up on the ceiling to the bottom of the miter box. The second side is closer to you and raised. You rest it on the wall of the device so that it does not wobble when cutting. That is, the front part of the plinth turns away from you. Make the cutting direction as shown in the photo below. By putting the two cut pieces together, you get a protruding corner - an outer or outer corner.

How to make an outer corner of a ceiling plinth using a chair

First place the sawn parts in place “dry”, without applying glue. If the geometry of the corner turns out to be not so ideal, you can correct it a little with a knife. It is easier to cover up small errors with special putty.

The situation with the inner corner of the ceiling plinth is very similar. First, try on which side will be on the ceiling, press this part to the bottom of the miter box, rest the second part on the wall closest to you and make cuts as shown in the photo below.

And again, first try it on without applying glue, and if necessary, adjust it slightly. Then apply a thin bead of glue to both surfaces that will be attached to the wall or ceiling.

Your version of how to use a miter box correctly is shown in the video.

How to make a corner of a ceiling plinth without a miter box

Few apartments or houses have angles exactly 90°. Small deviations can be easily corrected after trying on. But not always. Then you have to mark everything “in place” - under the ceiling.

You will need a finely outlined pencil (hard - it is not so visible on the ceiling, but leaves fairly clear marks close up), a small piece of plinth, a ruler and a good stationery knife if you are working with polyurethane (polystyrene) baguettes or a metal saw for working with other materials.

Place the plinth against the corner and draw along the outer edge with a pencil. Apply to the other side of the corner and also mark. You have a cross on the ceiling, the center of which marks the place where the ceiling plinth strips should meet (look at the photo). Having placed a piece of plinth in the corner that will be glued there and resting its end against the wall, transfer the mark to it.

How to make corners on ceiling plinths without using special tools

Now take a ruler and connect the edge of the baseboard with the marked mark. If you simply put the plinth on the table and cut it along the line, the two parts in the corner will still not fit together: the inner part will get in the way. It can be trimmed later by trying it on the ceiling. The second way is to install the piece that needs to be cut on the table with the part that will be on the ceiling. And cut along the line, but holding the knife at an angle of about 45°. You will still need to make adjustments, but much less (and less likely to make mistakes).

Repeat the same operation with the second bar. You attach it to the right wall, rest the end against the adjacent wall, mark the place where the cross is drawn, draw a line and then cut it off. Adjustment is carried out “dry” without applying glue.

You repeat exactly the same steps for the outer (protruding) corner. Now you know another way to make a corner of a ceiling plinth, without a chisel or other special devices.

Using decorative corners

There is another, easiest way. For skirting boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene, use ready-made, factory-made decorative corners. They are installed in a corner, and the strips are glued tightly to them. Trimming them if necessary is very simple: a few millimeters with an ordinary stationery knife.

How to join in corners

If the installation of the first corner is completed, you can assume that you have already learned how to do almost everything. “Almost”, because you still need to learn how to connect the corners and cut the planks to length. When some part has already been glued and there is a small distance left to the corner, how can you not make a mistake with the length? The answer is simple: leave a reserve.

At first, you can cut a piece 10-15 cm longer: you will have the opportunity to redo it several times if something doesn’t work out right away. Then you make an angle in the manner described above, try it on dry, adjust everything so that the result suits you. Only after this can you place the already cut strip in the corner and mark the place to which it can be shortened. You need to cut exactly 90°. It is not necessary to use a miter box. Just try to place the knife (hacksaw) perpendicular to the surface.

Installing baguettes and skirting boards gives the renovation a finished and neat look, but only if the trimming is done correctly and all joints meet perfectly evenly. Used for pruning different instruments and methods that make work easier, but it is also important to take into account many nuances, which we will talk about today.

Types of ceiling and floor skirting boards, selection of tools

Installation of baguettes and baseboards is no less important stage of repair than any other. And cutting the corners is the most difficult part here. It is important to choose the right tool for the job and the most suitable cutting method.

Ceiling plinth

Ceiling molding, also known as molding, fillet, border or simply plinth, is most often used to finish the joint between the wall and the ceiling. Although sometimes they cover internal corners, make decorative frames or panels, decorate niches and architectural elements. There are several most popular materials for making ceiling moldings:

Plastic (polyvinyl chloride). It is more convenient to cut wide and rigid moldings with a hacksaw. If you need a more gentle tool, use a jigsaw.

Foam plastic (expanded polystyrene). A very light and porous material that is best cut with a sharp construction or stationery knife.

Wooden baguettes. Saws with helical sharpening, specially designed for baguettes, are suitable for cutting. You can also use hand or jigsaws.

Floor plinth

A modern floor plinth can hardly be called a plank that closes a gap. This is a structural component that complements the design and emphasizes the overall design. Skirting boards are made from several materials:

Wooden can be made of solid wood or veneer. For pruning use flat or circular saws, jigsaws.

Plastic skirting boards- “dangerous” competitors to traditional wood. Easy to install and cut with a regular hacksaw.

Aluminum skirting boards- the last word in interior design. Usually cut with an electric saw or hand saw on metal.

Only on wooden baseboards will you have to make corner trims. The rest are cut straight and connected using special corners.

Types of angles

Corner joining and trimming of the plinth differs depending on the type of corner; they are distinguished: internal, external and non-standard.

An internal angle, in other words, an angle of a room less than 180°, is usually 90°. When trimming an internal corner Bottom part The ceiling plinth always protrudes above the top. The first step is to measure the angle between the walls; if it is standard and equal to 90°, then the planks are cut at an angle of 45°. The baguette that is glued on the right side should be cut on the left, and the left strip on the right.

The external or external angle is less common, it is more than 180°, usually around 270°. When working with such angles, everything is exactly the opposite. The edge of the plinth that will press against the ceiling should be larger than the bottom.

Non-standard angles. These most often mean angles with a degree greater or less than the standard of 90° and 270°, as well as various types of rounding. In this case, pruning is carried out “by eye” or with markings in place. Areas with curves are assembled from several small elements, each of which is adjusted in turn.

Methods for cutting skirting boards

If the corners are standard, it is most convenient to cut the baseboards using a miter box or stencil. In other cases, they resort to the method of marking in place.

Cutting a baguette using a miter box

A miter box is a carpentry tool that is designed specifically for cutting baguettes. It can be made of plastic, wood or metal. The shape resembles a tray with slits (grooves) on the walls. The miter box helps to correctly determine the angle of inclination and evenly cut the bar at 45, 60 or 90 degrees. Some models may have more graduation guides.

When working with a miter box, it is important to place the baguette correctly:

  1. The end cut of the baguette has the shape of an irregular triangle, so the side that will be glued to the ceiling is pressed against the bottom of the miter box, and the wall side against the wall of the instrument.
  2. The cut is made through opposite grooves. If you need to cut a baguette at an internal angle, then it is cut at an acute angle, and if it is an external angle, at an obtuse angle.
  3. Ceiling plinths are always laid against the nearest wall. The left part is placed on the left side, and the right part, respectively, on the right.
  4. Floor plinths are applied to the far wall of the miter box, “away from you.” Corners are cut using the same principle.

A stencil is nothing more than a flat imitation of a miter box. It's not difficult to make. To begin with, you should arm yourself with a ruler, pencil and protractor.

Two parallel lines are drawn on a flat surface, the width between which should not be less than the width of the baguette. A perpendicular is drawn in the middle of the segments. All angles must be 90°. Next, this segment connecting the two parallels is divided in half and two more lines are drawn through the point at an angle of 45° from the perpendicular. Place a baguette on the stencil, just like in a miter box.

Cutting with pencil marks

This is another way to cut a baguette evenly without a miter box.

For the inside corner. The plinth is applied to the ceiling as it will stand, to the left of the corner, and a line is drawn on the ceiling. Then the segment is applied to the other side, to the right of the corner, and a line is also drawn on the ceiling. The two lines should form an intersection point. Again, apply the plinth pieces one by one and lower a straight line from the intersection point to the bottom edge of the plinth; it will be the cut line.

For outside corner. Place the plinth to the right of the corner and draw a line on the ceiling with a pencil beyond the corner of the wall connection. After this, apply the plinth on the left side of the corner and draw a second line to the intersection with the first. The intersection point is transferred to the upper edge of the baguette. The point where the corner of the walls and the inner bottom edge of the baguette meet will be the second mark. The two points are connected and the baguette is cut along the line.

Cutting wide molding with a pattern

If a large pattern on the surface of the border falls exactly at the junction of the internal corner, it will have to be adjusted, otherwise general form will be spoiled.

A section with a pattern is cut out of the ceiling molding, leaving a 5 cm margin on the sides. The resulting area is divided in half, that is, an even cut is made in the middle of the pattern. After this, the baguette is cut alternately in a miter box or by eye.

Some useful tips that will help you in your work:

  1. Before you start making final cuts, it is worth practicing on a small section.
  2. The baguette should be cut from the front side, then the unevenness of the cut will remain on the back side.
  3. The cut can be carefully trimmed with a knife or sandpaper.
  4. The plinth should be cut on a hard, flat surface.
  5. If you use a miter box, for convenience it can be secured to the work surface with self-tapping screws.
  6. If the result is unsatisfactory and gaps at the joints are still visible, they can be carefully puttied.

If the corners in the room being renovated are even, you can buy ready-made corners for the chosen type of baguette and completely avoid the stage of cutting corners.

May 17, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

The question of how to cut plastic skirting boards can be answered quite concisely and unambiguously, pointing to a hacksaw for metal, but this will still not be entirely accurate information. After all, by and large, in this question there is a subtext that points to the full action, and not to the tool itself, so that without a full familiarization with the process, the purpose of a particular tool is difficult to understand. That's why I want to tell you about own experience, developed over years of practice, and in addition you can watch the video in this article.

Cutting corners of floor and ceiling skirting boards

In Russian, plinth means a decorative strip that covers the junction of the wall and the floor (ceiling).
This name comes from the Greek πλίνθος and Latin plintus.

Tools and accessories

Let's start with the fact that cutting plinths at an angle of 45⁰, 90⁰ and others can be done by anyone cutting tool, but here, as elsewhere, there are preferences:

  • the most convenient tool, which leaves behind the highest quality cut, can be called a hacksaw, and this applies not only to plastic fillets, but also to fillets;
  • due to the fact that the blade has fairly fine teeth, the cut is clear and, most importantly, accurate, which is important for joining profiles - the more precise its processing, the better the joint, since there will be no gaps there;

  • Of course, as we have already said, the instructions do not necessarily indicate one or another tool, so for plastic you can also use a construction knife;
  • there are options here, since these knives are similar in that they have a removable blade, but at the same time it can be different thicknesses and length (for wallpaper, as in the top photo or for drywall);
  • but in these cases such a tool is only suitable for thin-walled profiles– Polyurethane, for example, cannot be cut with it.

For accuracy in fitting joints, they often use carpenter's miter box for cutting skirting boards, which can be different:

  • the difference in the design of such a tool lies in the complete or incomplete presence of all grooves for corner cutting;
  • a tool with a full set has grooves at a slope of 45⁰, 60⁰, 67.5⁰ and 90⁰ (its price is not much more), while for a simplified tool everything comes down to 45⁰ and 90⁰;
  • In addition, a full-set miter box, as in the top photo, has grooves for cutting boards, that is, here you can easily cut a profile in the form of a flat strip.

What it looks like in practice - method one

So, cutting the corners of a ceiling plinth (or floor) first of all comes down to the correct direction of the slope, since the joint can be internal or external, depending on the configuration of the corner. Let's figure this out using the image above - there, on the left and right, two opposite options are indicated - the redundant (deleted) parts of the profile are shown in red.

If we are decorating a ceiling, then the option on the left is suitable for the outer corner, and the one on the right is suitable for the inner corner. For floor decoration, everything will be identical, but exactly the opposite - there will be an internal corner on the left, and an external one on the right. The correct position of the processed profile is shown in the middle between the options.

If you use a carpenter's miter box, then cutting corners should be done at the side of the tool closest to you!

Method two

But, as you have seen, the number of grooves for cutting corners is limited even in a miter box with a full set, which makes such a tool in some cases simply useless. The fact is that in houses you often have to deal with the fact that rooms do not have right angles, therefore, a slope of 45⁰ for joining will not suit you, since after such a connection there will be a gap.

But there is a way out, and it’s quite simple - you can mark the profiles with your own hands.

Let's look at how to fit a joint in the inner corner without using a miter box and to do this, install the profile close to the adjacent wall, and draw a line along the ceiling, as shown in the top photo. We perform exactly the same operation on the other side, as a result of which we get two crossed control lines, where the intersection will be the starting point for the cut.

The lower point will correspond to the angle at which the two walls meet - the cut line is highlighted in red in the image.

If the corner is external, then the intersection of the marking lines will naturally be further, and for this you will need not to rest the profile against the adjacent wall, but to push it beyond it in order to extend the line. You will need to perform similar markup steps for floor plinth, only all this will look like a mirror image, on the contrary.

When cutting ceiling plinths (floor) without a miter box, manually, the hacksaw should be directed to the center of the corner, that is, its slope will be approximately 45⁰.

Method three

In the same way, with a slope, you need to cut the profile to build it up on straight sections of the ceiling or floor, and if you cut the strip at 90⁰ or even 45⁰ for this, a gap will be visible. Therefore, in such cases, you can use a miter box with grooves of 60⁰ and 67.5⁰, that is, the length of the cut should be at least twice as large as its cross-section.

This method minimizes the appearance of a gap at the connection as much as possible; in any case, it is almost invisible unless you look closely at this place.

But no matter how hard you try when marking and cutting skirting boards, the human factor can always come into play - even the best masters and an error of a fraction of a degree is possible, which will cause a small gap. If you are dealing with plastics, then in such cases this error can be very easily repaired with silicone, and for other materials - with wood putty or plaster, respectively. In some cases, even a coat of paint is enough to seal.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to say that the cutting tool itself will be of paramount importance, but how you do it, that is, how correctly you mark the cut and how accurately you adhere to the approximate lines. But if something remains unclear to you, ask your questions.

May 17, 2016

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Foam plastic ceiling plinths are a great way to decorate the joints of walls and ceilings, regardless of choice finishing materials. How to properly cut ceiling skirting boards in the corners of a room? How and what to glue it to the walls and ceiling? Let's figure it out.

Joining corners is the main problem in gluing skirting boards.

How the baseboard fits in the corners

In general, there are only two main scenarios.

Decorative corners

Special decorative corners are used - external and internal.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of the method?

  • This method of docking is as simple as possible. The corner is glued to the wall; to him and to to the neighboring plot walls are glued to adjacent skirting boards. No hassle with fitting.

Yes, the plinth is cut to length here too; however, cutting at right angles does not present any difficulties. It is enough to place the plinth on the corner of the table and cut it exactly along its edge (see).

Tip: The best tool for cutting baseboards is a utility knife. It, unlike all types of hacksaws, does not crumble material.

  • However, alas, it is often very difficult to find corners that are suitable in width and design. Simply due to the limited range of products from one manufacturer at a particular seller (see).
  • In addition, the corners allow you to join the plinth only at right angles. Indoors complex shape angles are often not equal to 90 degrees.

Decorative corners are the simplest solution. But it won't always help.

Trimming planks

This docking method is more universal: no Additional materials, in addition to the baseboard; docking is possible at any angle. The essence of the method comes down to trimming the plinth strips in the corners so that there is no gap between them or at least minimal.

With a knife in his hands

So, how to cut ceiling skirting boards correctly?

Scenario 1: Right Angle

Let's start with a simpler case. How to cut ceiling skirting boards so that they meet at right angles?

Obviously, the joint will look best if the seam splits the corner exactly in half. Thus, we need to cut each of the planks that we connect at an angle of strictly 45 degrees (see).

Best tool for this operation - a miter box. This simple carpentry device is a tray, the walls of which are cut at several fixed angles. Including under the one we need.

  • We place the plinth in the miter box so that the areas for the sticker are flat against its bottom and wall.
  • We cut it off using the slot we need as a guide.

If you don’t have a miter box at hand, it’s easy to make it yourself, using smooth boards or strips of thick plywood as the material. The slots in the walls are marked with a square or protractor.

A miter box is a tool that is easy to make yourself.

Scenario 2: arbitrary angle or right angle in the absence of a miter box

How to cut the baseboard correctly in this case? A miter box will not help in case of an oblique or obtuse angle; and often there is no point in buying or making this instrument for the sake of a small room.

Let's take the fit of an internal corner as an example. The only tools we need are a pencil and the same stationery knife. The edge of the table will serve as a support for us when cutting the edge of the baseboard.

Then again we alternately apply both plinth strips to the ceiling and mark the intersection point on them.

All that remains to be done is to correctly draw a line from the outer lower corner to the inner upper corner and cut the plinth along it. The easiest way to do this is to place the plinth on the edge of the table and align both points connected by the cut with its edge. Then we cut the plank strictly vertically along the edge of the table.

Sticker

The operation itself is extremely simple; however, as elsewhere, there are a number of subtleties.


Tip: acrylic putty will also hide the gaps between the baseboard strips and the wall, gaps in the corners and other flaws.

  • It is optimal to glue the plinth not on top of the wallpaper, but on a plastered surface. The plaster is primed with a primer: this way the baseboard will hold on much more reliably.
  • When using synthetic universal glue, the main problem is that before the glue hardens, the baseboard slips or falls.

The solution could be very simple. After applying glue to the edges of the baseboard, press it into place and immediately tear it off. After waiting about a minute, press again, this time completely. The thickened glue will hold the foam securely.

  • Be sure to glue the baseboard strips together.
  • Ceiling plinth can be used with suspended ceiling; however, in this case it is glued only to the wall. There is a minimal gap between the top edge and the canvas. In this case, the joints of the plinth in the corners should be additionally reinforced with dowels made of matches.

  • Displacement of the plinth from the ceiling surface by ten centimeters will allow you to lay it in LED strips, providing the ceiling with hidden lighting.

Conclusion

If some aspects of how to cut a ceiling plinth remain unclear to you, the useful video at the end of the article may be able to answer your questions. Good luck with the renovation!

And the adjacent walls.

They are very convenient for masking joints on walls and ceilings, especially if they have a different structure and are not made very carefully.

Its presence makes the room design clearer and more complete.

People often wonder: how to properly and accurately decorate a room with ceiling plinths?

This is especially true for those cases when the home owner prefers repairs done with his own hands.

To do this correctly, it is important to strictly follow existing recommendations and rules finishing works. And then the result will please you.

There are no difficulties in attaching the fillet (this is the name of this element): virtually all types of products are attached with reliable glue.

They lend themselves well to processing with a special fine-toothed hacksaw. You can also use a reliable metal blade. So how to cut the ceiling plinth correctly?

Ready-made factory corners

Note that each master has the opportunity not to pore over precise cutting and fitting of corners.

In a hardware store you can buy a factory corner element, into which the prepared edges of the plinth are easily inserted.

It is enough to measure the required length of the workpiece and cut it at a right angle.

All defects and flaws will be hidden by this special element. But like this in a convenient way It’s not always possible to use it, because standard sizes Such factory corners may differ markedly from the size of the baseboard itself.

Such angles will stand out due to their disproportion, and it will not look very neat. But if the design of the room and the dimensions of the workpieces allow you to use this method, then you should not neglect it.

For those who have to use one of the methods for cutting ceiling plinths, the following tips will be useful.

Trimming fillets

Trimming using a miter box

How to evenly trim the corner of a ceiling plinth using it?


A miter box is a simple tool used by carpenters. With its help, you can cut any workpiece at the desired angle.

It is usually a wooden, metal or plastic tray on which special vertical slots are made for cutting at an angle of 45° and 90°.

There are complicated designs, which, in addition to the mentioned angles, also have a hole for making a 60-degree cut.

A special miter box is produced for professional work. Its swivel mechanism allows you to fix cutting blade in relation to the workpiece at any given angle.

Internal corner


The prepared one is applied to the ceiling, the required length is set aside.

Then this same bar is inserted into the miter box exactly as it will be located on the ceiling. It must be pressed against the far wall of the device. In this position, the plinth is held with your left hand.

The hacksaw blade should be in such a position that its angle is 45 degrees, and the handle is as close to the hand as possible. Trying to avoid pressing on the saw, we carefully cut the workpiece.

The position of the hacksaw is similar to the previous procedure - its handle approaches the hand at an angle of 45 degrees. The baseboard is cut.

Then the finished, already cut planks are joined - the accuracy of the fit is checked. It is believed that for better orientation, when making an internal corner, it is better to start cutting from the front part of the product. The cut locations usually have to be adjusted with a file.

External corner

The most correct thing to do, in order to keep the dimensions more accurately, is to first start marking the inner corner, and only after that move on to the outer one.

Otherwise, it may happen that the entire length of the bar is not enough.

The plank is applied to the ceiling, and marks are made according to the size. Holding with your left hand, the ceiling plinth is pressed against the nearest wall, the handle of the hacksaw moves closer to your hand. The workpiece is cut.

The strike plate is pressed against the nearest wall, while it holds right hand. The hacksaw blade should be at an angle of 45°, the handle of the tool should be close to the hand of the master. A piece of the workpiece is cut off, the corner is neatly joined.

This type of edge processing of parts using wort is good in cases where the angle between the walls is even and straight (90°).

If its performance leaves much to be desired, then it is worth using a different method.

How to cut a ceiling plinth without a miter box?

Markings on the ceiling

The method with markings on the ceiling allows you to cut the corner accurately and evenly. It has one drawback - it is quite inconvenient to hold the bar suspended while performing the procedure.

For everything else, with the help this method you will be able to mark the cutting angle even more accurately than others.

When the plinth is applied to the intended installation location, all dimensional deviations and inaccuracies are noticeable and immediately taken into account.

Corner cutting

First you need to take a couple of blanks, then cut them at a right angle. Pressing the end of the plank against the perpendicular wall, we apply one plank. We draw a line on the ceiling along the contour of the plinth. We remove the first plank, then, in the same way, resting the end against the wall, we apply a counter plank. We mark a line along the contour in the same way.

The point where the two separate lines intersect is the mark at which the workpiece is cut. Each strip is applied to the surface again, and the point of the future cut is marked on both. From the found point to the other edge of the plinth strip, draw a line. We cut the skirting boards according to the previously made outlines, carefully join them, and place them in the place where they will be installed.

This method allows you to more accurately process internal corners.

How to make a miter box template with your own hands


If you don't have a miter box, you don't have to buy a tool for one-time use. You can make a template with similar functions yourself.

To do this, the required cut angles are applied to wood, paper or cardboard.

Then you need to draw a pair of parallel lines, find the center, and then use a protractor to measure angles of any given size.

This method is especially convenient because, using it, you can set an angle of any size, even larger than a straight line.

Method of processing plinth blanks using homemade instrument practically no different from working with the original. The plank is pressed against one of the parallels, after which the hacksaw is set at the required angle and cut off.

Remember that before cutting the corners of the workpiece, be sure to check the size of the angle between the walls! To do this, use a protractor and a corner.

How to cut ceiling plinth correctly. Important little things

The measurements required to cut the plinth for the ceiling should be done in a special way.
To determine and mark an internal corner, the length must be measured from the corner itself. To mark the outer corner, it is necessary to take into account that the plinth will protrude into the interior of the room at a distance equal to its width.


It is not advisable to fasten the skirting boards until their exact location has been measured and the counter plinth has been cut.

Only after the perfect convergence of both strikers in the corner can you begin their installation and fastening. If work is carried out with polyurethane or wooden skirting boards, defects and flaws can be corrected with a nail file or file. To customize a product from