PVA glue is one of the most popular in our country. He is appreciated not only for affordable price, but also for excellent adhesive properties, which are indispensable in everyday life and creativity.
It is difficult to find at least one adult who has never encountered PVA. It has become widespread both in industry and in everyday life.
PVA glue includes a polyvinyl acetate dispersion, which hardens in just a day, is easy to apply, as well as a filler, which is water.
In order to remove the composition, special means not required. Enough Dilute PVA glue with water. Water is used to soften the stagnant product, which can be used again for its intended purpose.
How to dilute PVA glue with water
It is possible to dilute PVA with water, but you should keep in mind how more water, the less durable the adhesive seam will be, and its elasticity will decrease after hardening. Adding water also reduces the water resistance of the adhesive.
- Household and office PVA glue can be diluted. You should not do this with universal glue and PVA super.
Mixing order:
- Prepare a container, add one part glue and two parts water. Carry out work only in a warm room.
- Mix the mixture thoroughly with a spatula or stick. Stir until the water is completely dissolved.
- You should end up with a runny mixture. white. It will be easily applied to the surface and will allow, for example, to prepare walls for painting.
Why is PVA afraid of water?
The main reason is that the glue loses its properties; it gets wet and dissolves. The more water there is, the worse the glue will connect the parts. 
In some cases, if the composition has thickened, water is added deliberately to dilute it. But if you violate the proportion of 2 parts glue to 1 part water, then you risk getting a completely useless liquid.
You can also make PVA glue from water using other available materials, for example, using a simple and inexpensive ingredient that every housewife has - ordinary starch.
- To do this, you also need to take potato flour or wheat flour and fill it with cold water.
- Next, the contents are mixed and the water begins to boil.
- A mixture of water and starch is poured into boiling water.
- The mixture is stirred for ten minutes, and when it is half ready, put on the stove and cook until the mixture reaches the consistency of jelly.
- The result will be a translucent glue, an analogue of PVA with good adhesive properties. This option is easier to make at home, but is slightly less effective than flour-based glue.
So, we need to glue something to something. What options do we have and how do some adhesives differ from others?
Let's try to consider the main types of adhesives, their disadvantages, areas of application and most importantly
- areas where they cannot be used.
General properties of all adhesives:
- thinner adhesive layer - higher strength
- Excess glue must be removed before the glue dries
- try on seven times, once place the parts to be glued together and press
- There are no universal adhesives; in any case, this is a compromise.
Moment.
A classic, so to speak: liquid, smelly and plastic - all about Moment glue. The recipe goes back to glue 88, developed according to legend specifically for the military, but the moment is its household version. Once upon a time, its recipe included toluene, which has a narcotic effect, but then it was banned and the recipe was changed, claiming that the properties had not changed. A very versatile adhesive with a wide range of applications.
The main method of application - as with almost all "old classic school" adhesives - is to apply a layer to both surfaces to be glued, dry, then apply a thin layer and press firmly. It dries completely in about a day. Good coarse glue.
Pros:
Good adhesion to many surfaces, that is, a truly universal adhesive.
After gluing, you can re-glue it if it doesn’t work out (with reservations, since sometimes it can “come apart” in the form of such an eerie “lunar landscape” that you just have to wash it off.
It is diluted well with solvents (I tried toluene) to a liquid form. Then it can be applied with a brush in a very thin layer. This trick is used to stick foil on surfaces.
It is completely removed from metals and glass without damaging the surface; it can also be removed from some plastics.
As a rule, it is used for gluing transparent plastics such as polycarbonate and acrylic, since the modern version does not harm these polymers (they can be used to glue protective plates onto optics).
Minuses:
Even when dried, it is slightly plastic, so rigid fixation cannot be achieved.
The adhesive seam is thick, which is due to the gluing principle. It is impossible to achieve precise instant gluing.
The gluing area should be relatively large.
PVA and derivative adhesives (mainly carpentry adhesives).
Excellent water-soluble (diluted with water if thickened) glue for paper and wood. Apply a thin layer to both surfaces, combine and fix. The glue seam when gluing wood is so strong that it can only burst again outside the seam (I personally checked it).
Pros:
Cheap.
Ideal for wood.
Minuses:
For other materials it is practically useless.
BF-2.
Glue Butyral Phenolic (will give little insight, but it sounds funny). This is an alcohol-soluble adhesive for gluing metals, rubber and other materials and their combinations. If it thickens, easily dilute it with alcohol to the desired consistency. Durable after drying. Can be used for impregnation of transformers and electric motor windings. Reacts well to "baking" - holding at high temperature after gluing, which improves the quality of the adhesive seam.
Thermal bonding is possible, when glue is applied to both surfaces, dried and ironed. In this way, it was possible to repair the sagging chipboard lamination in prehistoric Soviet times.
Can be easily "pumped" into paint by adding pigment. So, for example, paint is made for Kalashnikov assault rifles - it is a mixture of the alcohol-soluble pigment Nigrozin and BF-2.
Pros:
Cheap.
Glues metals well.
Minuses:
Low ductility of the adhesive seam.
BF-6.
A close relative of BF-2, but intended for gluing tissue and medical needs (glue a cut, stick a bandage on a wound, etc.). After drying it is plastic. Also alcohol soluble.
Pros:
Cheap.
Plastic glue seam.
It seals small cuts well - drop it, smear it around, wait.
Minuses:
For leather and fabrics only.
Epoxy adhesive.
A two-component adhesive that cures when chemical reaction epoxy resin and hardener, which must be mixed before using the adhesive.
The very high adhesion of the glue allows it to be used over a wide range. True, after drying it can sharply decrease and after using force we will tear the glued parts away from each other (aluminum loves this thing). Scratching the parts to be glued helps a little.
The seam is strong and solid. Recently, modifications have been made to epoxy adhesive with a plasticizer introduced into the composition. This gives a more flexible adhesive seam.
You can also add various fillers to the composition for different purposes to obtain putties. For example, the introduction of aluminum powder (silver) increases the strength of three-dimensional adhesive joints within certain limits.
Very good "fast" epoxy adhesives- Poxipol and Konakt. The contact hardens a little slower, making it more convenient to work. The time from mixing to noticeable thickening is about 5-10 minutes (you don’t have to hold small parts, they won’t move anywhere), it sets seriously in 30 minutes - 1 hour (you can already carefully handle excess glue), and completely hardens within a day.
Epoxy is not susceptible to the release of caustic fumes and solvents, so it can be used for gluing optics.
Pros:
Durable seam.
It hardens in any case, frost will only reduce the hardening time, whereas in the case of nitro adhesives this can increase the time by orders of magnitude.
The high strength of the dried glue allows it machining. It is even possible (to a limited extent) to cast parts using filled epoxy adhesive.
Suitable for working with optics.
Minuses:
Adhesion in liquid and solid forms differs, so tests must be carried out when gluing.
Super glue.
He is like a superhero - he can do anything, he cannot be stopped by ordinary means and he always comes to the aid of everyone. Or so they show us in the movies.
In terms of composition, it is an ester of cyanoacrylic acid, that is, in fact, it can be said to be a relative of acrylic glass. It is caustic and relatively volatile, so it would be good not to inhale it and protect your eyes.
Although the strangest thing about it is that it does not contain a solvent, that is, it cannot physically fizzle out, only evaporate (slowly, slowly). However, it has a very specific polymerization (hardening) mechanism. It does this upon contact with moisture, especially if the layer of glue is thin. Alkalies and some other substances also activate solidification. That's why he can glue his fingers together so well. If it dries out on its own, it is due to moisture in the air.
Has adhesion to a decent amount different materials, plus it polymerizes well only in a thin layer, so it is popular - I dropped it, pressed it, the glue spread over the area, met moisture and began to polymerize, and set. And all this in a second or two (if the layer is thin).
Tricks: to speed up polymerization, you can drop water on the seam, but this will lead to a deterioration in quality, since only a thin layer has good strength.
You can get three-dimensional structures using soda (it is alkali, so it starts polymerization): pour a layer, pour superglue on it - it sets instantly. We repeated it, sometimes laying it with fiberglass.
ATTENTION: It is absolutely not suitable for gluing transparent plastics and any modifications to optics. When drying, some of the glue likes to evaporate and settle anywhere, and also corrode the surfaces of plastics, especially polystyrene.
I had a case: I glued protection into a collimator. I took a suitable frame, cut out a round piece from a polycarbonate lens, glued it with superglue and left it to harden - and went to drink tea. When I returned I found a beautiful white raised fingerprint on the polycarbonate. It happened like this: the fingerprint left on the lens absorbed the evaporating cyanoacrylate and the latter set there. As a result, the entire fingerprint was “imprinted” from solidified cyanoacrylate. And how superglue makes polystyrene matte...
If you use some of this glue, it is better to buy it in model stores: they are sold there in large volumes and come in different strengths - low, medium and high. I use a medium-strength model. It is convenient to impregnate all sorts of reinforcements, connections, etc. For example, when installing connectors for reinforcement, I wrap them with strong thread and soak them with superglue.
Pros:
Quickly - I pressed it and in a second it stuck together.
Convenient - a hermetically sealed tube, if you squeeze out the air, is almost eternal.
When working with glue, during repairs or when making various crafts, many are faced with its thickening, which occurs due to improper or long-term storage. The glue may get on clothes or other objects and then it must be removed. You can get rid of these problems by knowing what you can use to dilute the glue or dissolve it. Let's look at the most popular types of glue and what solvents are used to dilute them.
PVA glue
PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue is one of the most common, used for gluing materials such as wood, ceramics, linoleum, chipboard, paper, glass, textiles, natural and artificial leather. PVA is widely used due to its excellent adhesive properties, good adhesion to surfaces, resistance to moisture, solubility in water and, last but not least, low cost.
There are several types of PVA glue:
- Stationery - used for gluing paper and cardboard;
- Household (wallpaper) – used for gluing paper products and wall surfaces (plaster or wood);
- Construction - used for gluing materials with a base made of fiberglass, vinyl or paper, added to primers in order to increase manufacturability and adhesion of subsequent materials (putties, plasters or dry mixes);
- Super M - used for vapor-permeable materials, ceramics, porcelain, fabrics, glass, leather, as well as for fixing floor coverings;
- Extra - used for gluing wood, plywood, construction mesh, wallpaper, sickle sheets or as an additive to increase strength characteristics;
- Universal – for gluing paper or decorative elements from paper or plastic to wood, glass or metal.
Let's try to answer the question, how to dilute PVA glue? Breed household and stationery adhesives PVA is recommended with warm water with vigorous stirring. The use of other solvents may affect the properties of the adhesive. In case of severe thickening - the formation of a crust on the surface or dry flakes, these crusts and flakes are removed. When diluting PVA, it must be remembered that a large number of water will reduce the bonding strength and also reduce ductility.
To dilute universal and office glues, when they thicken, use acetic acid or organic solvents such as acetone, methanol, ethyl acetate, benzene.
Glue 88
There are three types of glue 88: 88-CA; 88-NP; 88-N, each of which has its own area of application:
- Adhesive 88-CA – moisture resistant, used for products in contact with aquatic environment, both fresh and salty, withstands significant temperature changes well. Finds application in construction, footwear, aviation and automotive industries. Used for linoleum flooring. Contact of the adhesive with steel and aluminum surfaces does not cause corrosion, and there is no release of toxic compounds.
- Glue 88-NP - used for gluing rubber made on the basis of rubber to metal, wood, glass, leather, concrete and various surfaces, and for gluing rubber products. The advantages of the glue include moisture resistance, resistance to temperature and the absence of corrosion of steel and aluminum.
- Glue 88-N is used for gluing vulcanizing rubber to products made of metal, wood, plastic, glass and concrete. Recommended for gluing polyisobutylene to metal and concrete.
When it dries or thickens, the question arises - how to dilute glue 88. For dilution, it is recommended to use benzene, the amount of solvent is determined visually - to the state of liquid sour cream and so that the glue does not flow off the brush and does not drag on it (video).
Glue Titan
Titanium glue is a universal glue, which is explained by its high technological properties. Titanium can be used for gluing products made of foam plastic, wood, PVC, leatherette and others. Well proven for installing finishing elements on surfaces made of concrete, wood, plaster, including ceiling tiles. The adhesive can be used for exterior and interior work, the connection is characterized by elasticity, moisture resistance and frost resistance. Eco-friendly because does not contain solvents hazardous to health.
If Titanium has thickened, you can use alcohol, including salicylic acid or denatured alcohol, to dilute it. In its liquid state, Titanium does not bond well, but can be used as a primer. Craftsmen When advising on how to dilute Titan glue, they can point to nail remover. It should be borne in mind that the use of isopropanol-based nail remover may cause the glue to curdle (photo).
Glue Moment
The moment is also extremely popular when carrying out construction and renovation work.
The range of its application is large. To dilute Moment, acetone and dimethyl sulfoxide, freely available in pharmacies, can be used.
Tile adhesive
Anyone who is busy renovating an apartment needs to know how to choose tiles and adhesive for them, and how to glue the tiles efficiently and quickly.
There are three types of tile adhesive:
- based on cement, for its preparation it is necessary to carefully observe the proportions and follow the instructions;
- ready-made one-component glue, sold in the form of a ready-made paste, does not dry out for a long time;
- two-component glue. Prepared immediately before use. Its advantages include elasticity and manufacturability.
To properly prepare tile adhesive, you should know a few rules:
- the temperature of the components should be approximately equal, i.e. You cannot bring the mixture from the cold and fill it with hot water;
- add water to the mixture in small portions with thorough mixing;
- During operation, it is necessary to periodically stir the finished glue to prevent delamination.
It is necessary to dilute the tile adhesive with warm, clean water. Number of mixture components: 5 liters of water account for 20 kg of dry mixture.
PVA glue is widely used for gluing products made of various materials - ceramics, wood, linoleum, chipboard, paper, glass, fabrics, leather and many others. Its popularity is due to its affordable cost, high-quality grip, resistance to high humidity and at the same time good solubility in water. The purpose of PVA is determined by its type.
Main types of compositions
Depending on the purpose, PVA glue is divided into the following types:
- stationery - for paper and cardboard;
- household or wallpaper - mainly used for gluing paper materials to cement and wood surfaces;
- construction - for materials based on fiberglass, vinyl and paper, can serve as an additive to primer compositions, which increases the technological properties and adhesion of subsequently applied materials (putty, plaster and dry building mixtures);
- super M - for products made of vapor-permeable materials, ceramics, porcelain, fabric, glass, leather, also used when installing various floor materials;
- extra - wood, plywood, construction mesh, wallpaper (cork, vinyl, paper, fiberglass), serpyanka, can be used as an additive to increase strength;
- universal - for gluing paper and decorative laminated paper to products made of wood, glass, metal.
Is it possible to dilute PVA glue with water?
PVA should be diluted with warm water, since solvents have a negative effect on specifications and destroy its structure. Mixing is carried out as intensively as possible.
In case of strong thickening - a crust or dry flakes have formed on the surface - the impurities contained are removed from the solution. Clumps with a jelly consistency do not need to be removed - they will dissolve during stirring.
Dry mixtures are diluted in a ratio that should be indicated in the manufacturer's recommendations for the use of a particular solution.
Adhesive compositions that cannot be diluted with water are in most cases sold already diluted and in appropriate containers, since they have a strong and unpleasant smell, and also tend to harden quickly. Such substances may not be diluted at all or only with the use of special solvents.
For any type of wall finishing, be it putty, plaster, painting, or before wallpapering, you must first prepare the surface. Priming is one of the main stages that must be completed first, because with the help of soil you can achieve better adhesion finishing material with the surface. However, the materials presented on the construction market have quite high cost. But there is a great one economical solution– PVA primer. It is not difficult to make it yourself, and this solution is suitable for both wooden and concrete and brick surfaces.
PVA glue is a water emulsion of polyvinyl acetate. This Chemical substance solid granular substance without distinct color and odor. The material is used in construction, furniture production, carpentry. It is actively used by schoolchildren, students, and needlewomen. Polyvinyl acetate glue connects various materials: paper, cardboard, wood, rubber, ceramics.
To obtain a primer, PVA glue is diluted with water. On the surface, such a mixture forms a thin transparent film, which has many of the properties of specialized primer compositions.
A PVA-based primer can be used as an intermediate layer between the surface and the finishing coating, promoting good adhesion of materials and reducing the risk of them peeling off the wall as a result of moisture getting on it. In addition, the use of such a primer will reduce the consumption of putty or paint used.
Advantages and disadvantages
A primer made from PVA glue has its advantages and disadvantages. The undoubted advantages are:
- Increased adhesion. An additional layer is created to securely fix the finish to the surface.
- Reduced moisture absorption. The soil penetrates the surface structure, filling its pores and preventing moisture from entering them.
- Creation of a protective layer. A thin polymer barrier helps combat aggressive environmental influences.
- Decrease in quantity consumables (plaster, paint, glue).
In addition, a primer made from PVA ensures even application of paint and facilitates the process of wallpapering. Of course, all this is sufficiently ensured by commercial primer, which is available in a wide range. But often its high price forces us to look for more profitable solutions. Therefore, using PVA instead of a primer is a completely justified option.
Despite all the advantages, this composition still has disadvantages. These include:
- Ineffective– insufficient penetration into the material.
- Lack of antiseptic properties– the primer will not be able to resist the growth of microorganisms (mold, fungus).
- Education yellow spots and divorces– spoils appearance finishing.
- The material loses its properties in damp areas– not used to cover walls, ceilings in bathhouses, swimming pools.
Knowing some subtleties, you can turn disadvantages into advantages and improve the properties of an aqueous PVA solution for priming walls. So, for example, you can increase the ability to resist mold by adding a little whiteness to the composition in the proportion: 50 g of disinfectant per liter of ready solution. Add 3% of its volume to PVA soil liquid glass, it is possible to increase the permeability into the processed material, especially into wooden substrates.
In case of limitation financial resources glue primer is best used in utility or non-residential premises. In the living room and bedroom, combination with expensive wallpaper such a primer will not work, because there is a possibility of yellowing, which will significantly change the interior for the worse.
Prepare the primer yourself
How to make a mixture that has the properties of a primer? You need to take the following components:
- PVA glue – 1 part;
- water – 2 parts;
- cement - the amount is determined by the density.
The preparation technology does not cause any difficulties: the glue is diluted with water, mixed, added required amount cement. The finished solution should resemble liquid sour cream and fit well on the surface.
Important! Before you make a PVA primer with your own hands, decide on its quantity. The mixture should not be prepared for future use, since unspent excess will eventually lose its binding properties.
Diluted primer is an excellent, economical pre-treatment product for walls. wallpaper glue, but not enough for reliable finish. Is it possible to improve the quality of the primer composition? Repair experts advise adding crushed chalk and liquid resin to the mixture with PVA glue. Their mass should not exceed 5% of the total volume of the composition.
Important cooking conditions:
- Work on creating a primer should be carried out in a warm room, away from drafts and sources of fire.
- Use convenient containers: a large bucket, a basin, a canister with a wide neck.
- Water is added to the glue gradually, the classic ratio is 2:1.
- Constant stirring of the composition will prevent the formation of a surface water layer. To facilitate labor and obtain the greatest homogeneity, you can use a construction mixer.
Priming walls with glue is different in that it forms a film on the treated surface without filling small cracks and gaps. But considering relatively low cost components used, the result is excellent construction material, which is quickly done at home.
The finishing goals should be clearly defined. A universal primer that does not require increased water resistance is suitable for wallpaper. Elite finishing decorative plaster requires a more expensive adhesion coating.
On video: deep penetration primer made of PVA.
Correct application technique
Knowing the theoretical techniques of how to dilute PVA for primer, it is necessary to achieve the correct consistency. To begin with, you should try applying the mixture on small area wall intended for wallpaper. The liquid mass is applied to the surface with a paint roller or wide brush, leaving a white mark.
After drying, the resulting film should not be noticeable. This emphasizes the correctness of the chosen proportions. You should add a little water if the opposite occurs.
Primer application work is carried out in several stages:
1. First of all, the corners and hard to reach places. Next, the primer is applied to the main areas using a short-haired roller.
2. The roller must be dipped in the resulting solution and lightly squeezed against the ribbed part of the container. Convenient device is a special bath with an inclined ribbed surface. By rolling a roller over it, you can squeeze out excess liquid. As a result, wet spots and smudges do not form.
3. For best result You can apply another coat of primer. This ensures reliable adhesion of small dust particles and makes it possible to further apply the putty evenly (it will peel off less).
4. You must wait until the surface is completely dry. The wall should take on a whitish color.
The resulting two-layer polymer coating reliably protects the surface, increases adhesion, and allows you to proceed to applying decorative finishing.
Save on repairs
If not PVA, then what?
You can also use regular wallpaper glue as a primer. It has distinctive features:
- does not form yellowness;
- has better absorption;
- does not form a film;
- inexpensive;
- easy and quick to apply.
Another way to make a primer and save money is to use concentrates. The instructions for them indicate how to dilute such a composition. Sometimes it can be increased 10 times.
Before painting acrylic paints Using a self-primer is not advisable. It is enough to mix the coating composition with water in a 1:1 ratio. The paint itself will act as a primer. It should be applied evenly with a roller. Savings are achieved by reducing the applied layers.
Brush, roller or spray gun?
The selection of tools also plays a big role. Applying primer using a spray gun - fast work from a technical point of view, but in terms of aesthetics, this is not an acceptable option, since there are many traces and smudges that are difficult to wash off.
Using a brush is unprofitable from an economic point of view - it increases the consumption of material. Used for working in corners. On large areas It is better to use a roller with short or medium pile. But on walls that have unevenness in the form of protrusions and dimples, you cannot do without a brush.
PVA primer does not have the properties it has special compounds for repair. Despite this, it is an indispensable tool for preparatory work, allows you to significantly save material resources. Proper preparation, compliance technological process turns a homemade composition into a high-quality primer material.