How to simply make a wardrobe with your own hands, in which outerwear will be stored correctly. Homemade spacious cabinet made of chipboard How to make a sliding wardrobe from a built-in wardrobe

Modern factory furniture very often does not meet our requirements in terms of quality, size or design. For example, you need a small locker for the balcony, but nothing suitable furniture showroom No. You can find a small factory where such things are made to order, but the cost of the product often exceeds all acceptable limits and the purchase becomes extremely unprofitable. To make or another room with your own hands is good way out for those people who have a small set of tools, can make simple calculations and have imagination. This task is completely doable at home and our master class is a clear example of this.

How to make a cabinet with your own hands?

Every owner has several boards, chipboard or plywood scraps in their closet. If you do not have such “wealth,” then any furniture workshop will gladly give you similar materials at a reasonable price.

We will mark and assemble on a strong, level and stable table. In addition, you will need a pencil, a square, a tape measure, a screwdriver, a jigsaw and a couple more simple tools.

On the side wall we mark the locations of the fasteners.

It is better to use a metal corner for fastening. Its dimensions depend on the dimensions of the cabinet; the larger the product, the wider the corner should be selected.

We install the corner on self-tapping screws, having previously completed chipboard hole with a slightly smaller drill.

Having retreated 15 cm from the edge of the slab, we mark the place for attaching the base of the hinges.

How to make cabinet doors from chipboard with your own hands has its own cunning tricks. For example, holes for hinges are made using a special method. First, we drill from the end of the workpiece.

Then we drill a hole on the plane of the chipboard.

We clean the groove and fasten the hinges.

We carefully screw the bottom with self-tapping screws to the side blanks.

We attach the lid of our product in the same way.

We place the second side wall on top, fixing the workpiece with corners and self-tapping screws.

The back wall is traditionally made of fiberboard, nailing the cut sheet with small nails.

We install metal hinge parts on the doors.

We align the doors evenly and fix the hinges on the assembled frame.

We drill holes for the handles.

We screw on the handles and we can confidently say that our balcony cabinet is ready.

You see that the production of the simplest does not require complex and bulky carpentry equipment. Sawing this material can be done using a hand-held circular saw or even a jigsaw. It’s even better to calculate the dimensions of the workpieces and perform this operation in a workshop at good equipment. Accurate and high-quality cutting is inexpensive, and you will not need to manually perform the most difficult and critical step.

We hope that the question of how to do beautiful wardrobe with your own hands, everything is clear to you. The described operations are not difficult, and the quality of assembly largely depends on correctly performed calculations. Thoroughly inspect the installation site of the future cabinet, immediately calculate the optimal number of shelves and doors, and make adjustments to the design while it is possible. Then make good drawings, which can be done manually or using good computer programs (Bazis-furniture maker, Autocad or others). You will immediately receive the exact quantity of confirmation, handles, screws, guides, shelf holders, and edge length. All this will help save material and prevent possible errors.

A wardrobe is a bulky and fundamental thing that is necessary in every home. Often purchased furniture is not suitable for the price, since intermediaries greatly inflate prices, sometimes they do not match in size or design. In this case, you usually have to look for small company, ready to fulfill a personal order. However, as practice shows, workshops ask for a lot of money. The most profitable solution in this situation is to make your own cabinet at home.

Kinds

Before you start, you need to decide what kind of cabinet you need. Depending on the location, there are two main types:

Built-in models, the main advantage of which is the presence of a floor, ceiling and some walls. This condition significantly reduces the cost of the project. Such options are convenient, since they can be adjusted to any existing niche: recesses in the walls, under the stairs. Oddly enough, this is also a disadvantage of built-in models, since they are built for a specific location and changes are no longer implied. In addition, the curvature of the load-bearing surfaces greatly affects the quality of the cabinets, so they must be leveled before starting the project.
Hull free-standing cabinets are classic version. Models can be used in any type of premises. Can be disassembled and moved from place to place. In addition, crooked walls, floors or ceilings will not affect the installation. Among the disadvantages, one can note the high consumption of materials, compared to built-in modifications, and the associated increased cost. However, with proper selection of components, the cost can be reduced.
Partially built-in models are something between the first two options.

Depending on the type of doors, cabinets are classified as follows:

Sliding wardrobe with sliding doors and rigid frame. There are two subtypes: with a roller door movement mechanism and with a monorail. After appearing on the market, such options gained popularity due to the variety of models, designs, and internal contents. In addition, the advantages are multifunctionality and space saving in the room.
Models with hinged doors. Long service life is the main advantage of such options. As well as practicality and durability.
Options with lifting door leaves.
Open, doorless cabinets.

Designers also divide cabinets according to how they are assembled and style. The style is diverse: folklore, high-tech, baroque, empire, modern, rococo.

In terms of equipment, the following models can be distinguished:

Typical options are typical for large productions; they are manufactured according to standard sizes, no frills. Practical and functional furniture. Most often used for offices.

Standard cabinet

Serial cabinet

Modular cabinet

Serial production is a mass option. It is the release of products in one line, with certain characteristics within the framework of one concept.
Modular cabinets have always been popular. Their advantages are mobility and functionality. Such structures can be divided into separate sections, easily dismantled, rearranged, and combined with each other.

If we consider cabinets by shape, the most common options are:

Linear, in other words, straight.
Corner (depending on the shape of the corner, L or U shaped).
Round. Rounded side or front panels.
Rectangular.

Linear

Angular

Round

Rectangular

Depending on the number of doors, there are double-leaf, single-leaf, three-leaf or open doors without doors. Of course, combined options are also popular.

The most main characteristic cabinets – functional. Only after a decision has been made on the purpose of the structure, all of the above classifications are taken into account. According to the purpose of use, cabinets are:

For clothes. This includes dressing rooms, wardrobes, which are characterized by hangers for dresses, suits, ties, and trouser holders.
For storing things. Here you can note bedside tables and chests of drawers.
Book. Various modifications are used, from open to combined.
In the hallway. These models are characterized by shelves for shoes and hats, hangers-hooks, umbrella holders, a mirror, and built-in sections for outerwear.
For kitchen. Often such cabinets are equipped with specific mesh or pull-out shelves for kitchen utensils and dishes, hooks for towels and other small items.

Materials

The most common materials for making cabinet frames are as follows:

Drywall. If a complex configuration is expected, then it is better to choose this option. GCR can be bent into any shape, since it is not afraid of deformation.
MDF. Rigid frames that do not require bending are made from furniture panels that do not require cladding. The board is characterized by high density, unlike chipboard, which makes it more durable. The fittings fit better inside, and the likelihood of chipping when cutting slabs is low. Conditional disadvantage - large mass. The material is affordable, but more expensive than chipboard.
Chipboard or laminated chipboard. To cut sheets, it is better to use the services of a workshop. At home, the quality of cuts can be poor due to the lack of necessary woodworking tools. You can make various complex elements from chipboard if you have the skills and the necessary machines. Laminated chipboard is distinguished by a laminated layer that protects the sheet from external influences and the user from formaldehyde. In addition, laminate is good for decorative purposes, as it imitates various coatings.

Plywood. The material is low cost. The service life of plywood products depends on the thickness of the sheet, the quality of gluing, and the indoor climate. In any case for large structures large mass unsuitable because it will sag under its own weight.
Solid boards. When choosing, it is better to use wood that is easy to process. Cabinets made of wood species such as maple, ash, acacia, rowan, walnut, and oak will outlive their creators many times over. It should be taken into account that the cost of the project in this case increases significantly.
Old boards. Recently it has been gaining popularity vintage style. It allows you to give a second life to old things.

For example, having parsed old wardrobe, table, door made of boards, you can create an interior element such as a wardrobe, cabinet, chest of drawers with your own hands.

Boxes. The fashionable hobby of making furniture from packaging cardboard is widespread today throughout the world. Typically a thickness of one to three layers is used. Single-layer cardboard is usually used for interior walls and curved surfaces. To fill the volume, use material with greater thickness. Cabinets made from boxes are the cheapest, but most short-lived option.

Materials for making facades are of no small importance:

The film is convenient in every sense. For the facade, you can use the same materials as for the body, covered with a decorative coating. A wide range of films makes it possible to create bright images and decorate a closet in the style of an existing interior. In addition, it is easy to care for.

Photo wallpaper. An excellent and inexpensive solution for decorating the facade.

A mirror is the most popular option, but rarely implemented when making cabinets yourself.

It must be remembered that mirror surfaces are fragile and require certain tools for cutting and adjusting to the required dimensions.

Lining. There are two types of material: wood and plastic. The facade, made of lining of various widths, is suitable for an eco-style interior, for country houses, balconies. Most often released wooden slats 4 classes. Panels of type “C” are subject to the least degree of processing, so they may have knots and cracks. A, B and “Extra” are more attractive, and also different low level resin.

Where to start?

The initial stage of making a cabinet yourself is design.

You need to take it seriously, for this you need:

Determine the future location of the structure. The dimensions and quantity of required materials depend on this.
You should decide what shape the cabinet is planned to be built: straight, corner, built-in, and so on.

Draw sketches of the exterior and interior contents. Determine in advance how many sections, drawers, shelves there will be. Fix the desired number of doors, sliding and hanging elements. Determine the order of arrangement of hooks, hangers, holders. Even the need to install a decorative facade should be decided at this stage.
Select the material, determine the color of the product, comparing all the parameters with the style of the interior. If necessary, decide what texture the façade should have. Identify the company that produces furniture fittings, based on expert reviews.

After this, various measurements are performed and calculations are made. It is necessary to understand that calculating the dimensions does not mean measuring the width and length of the cabinet. At the same time, you need to measure the distances between the shelves and the width of the sections. All dimensions are transferred to the drawing for clarity.

When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account that the standard width of the sash should not exceed one meter. In addition, you should remember about the thickness of the sheet from which the body is made, so 1-2 centimeters are added to the width of the sash. In the same way, the allowance for the height of the door panels is calculated.

The diagram should be clear and take into account all the desired parameters. If it is difficult to complete such a drawing yourself, you will have to turn to specialists.

Features of fastenings

An important stage in building a cabinet with your own hands is the selection of fittings. Today the furniture industry offers great amount fastening and connecting elements. Their characteristics depend on functional features cabinet and operating conditions.

Often for wooden cabinets with doors swing type Four-hinged door hinges are used, which are divided into several types:

Invoices. The most common option for sashes.
Semi-overlay hinges are suitable when one section is closed by two doors.

Internal or hidden are installed on the inside of the door.
Corner models are necessary for furniture located in corners that require installation of the doors at an angle of 45 degrees.

Inverse awnings allow the door to be opened 180 degrees.
Piano mechanisms have a low degree of reliability, and therefore are rarely installed on cabinets.
Mezzanine hinges have a spring in their mechanism.

Glass sashes can be secured using the following elements:

mounting strips;
fastening loops;
O-rings;
stubs.

For short canvases, two fastenings are sufficient; when lengthening to 1.5 meters or more, the number of loops is increased. If desired, you can install a closer to protect your fingers from injury and increase the durability of the mechanism.

There are several types of shock absorbers, varying in technical parameters and installation method:

The damper is the simplest and cheapest. There are many options on the market, the simplest of which is the self-adhesive model. It is a disk made of soft material with a thickness of 1.5 to 5 mm, a diameter of 7 to 10 mm, which is glued to the end of the case. For one sash you need at least two pieces.
Hinge closer. It should be noted that such designs must be purchased immediately with a loop from one manufacturer. The model has the effect of smooth closing of the sash.

Damper

Hinge with closer

Overhead and mortise shock absorbers, unlike those described above, do not depend on the type of hinges. The advantage of invoices is that they are easy to replace, which does not happen often. However, when installing a closer of this type, additional space is required for the hole in the box on the end wall. The advantage of the mortise version is that no installation space is required; on the other hand, it is more difficult to replace.

Overhead (left) and mortise (right) shock absorber

Hinged doors are often equipped with mechanisms designed to open up, down, or in the form of an accordion.

The models are easy to install, their cost is low, and they are convenient to use:

Gas elevators and lifting mechanisms combine the functions of opening and closing up and down. The fundamental selection criterion is the weight of the sash, since the device has varying degrees of force.
Parallel, angled and accordion opening mechanisms. The advantage is greater access to the contents, improved ergonomics of cabinets. The disadvantage is the high cost.

Lifting mechanism

Parallel

At an angle

Accordion

Shelf mounts also have their own classification:

Stationary ones are mounted using several types of holders.
Overlays that are mounted to the wall, to the cabinet body or to the facade. In this case, the shelf is placed on top. Represent different kinds corners.

The mortise ones are built into the cabinet.
Brackets are used for heavy loads.

Retractable options consist of rollers and guide rails along which they move. In addition, the mechanisms are usually equipped with limiters and seals.
Rotating models. The main part is the axis of rotation, usually in the form of a pipe of the required height. Additional items– fasteners for the upper and lower parts of the axle, flanges for mounting the shelf.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

Before you start working on the project, you need to prepare everything necessary materials, components and tools.

The following may be required:

drill or hammer drill;
level;
ruler or measuring tape;
pencil;
hammer;

glue;
screws, mounting hardware;
screwdriver;

hacksaw or a circular saw(if you mean cutting out parts yourself);
iron;
construction knife.

The cabinet assembly scheme at home consists of several stages.

Preparation of parts:

Cabinet elements are cut out from sheets of the selected material: cabinet walls, doors, shelves, drawer elements. Maximum precision is achieved using a circular saw. Cutting can also be done with a hacksaw, but in this case, without skill and experience, chips are possible.

Edge processing. For edging, PVC tapes matching the color are used. Their cost is low, and it is very convenient to process the edges with it. Typically, the thickness of the tape varies from 0.4 to 2 mm. Typically, a thicker one is used to process the apron of visible ribs, and a thinner one is used for those hidden from view. The action plan in this case is as follows.
The iron is turned on at three-quarters of its maximum power.

The tape is applied to the end adhesive surface, iron several times.
Run along the edge with a soft, dry cloth, pressing firmly.
The remaining tape is cut with a knife.
Preparation of accessories. It is necessary to collect the required number of fasteners, hinges, handles, hangers and other important details.

Frame assembly:

If the cabinet is built-in or will be located under the stairs, then most likely it will be missing any frame elements: lower or upper strip, sidewalls. In this case, the walls should be prepared for installation of the structure, leveled, puttied, painted or pasted over.
If other cabinet options are planned, then drill holes in the places of future fastenings.
Connect the body parts together. First of all, the sidewalls are attached to the bottom, then the upper part must be attached to them. For work, it is better to use the simplest fasteners - confirmats.
Checking verticality using a level.
If necessary, secure the back wall.

Installation of shelves and cabinets:

To begin with, make markings for dividing the internal space into sections. Next, mark the location of the shelves and built-in cabinets.
Install sectional partitions. Depending on the plan, they can be from the floor to the ceiling of the cabinet, or below. In the latter case, the presence of a horizontal partition is implied.
Fastenings for internal filling are installed on the side and sectional panels of the frame. If stationary shelves are planned, then these can be ordinary corners. In the case of retractable shelves or drawers, guide gutters are installed.
Installation of other elements: hooks, holders, hanging rods.

Then the doors are fastened. In order to assemble cabinet doors, you must adhere to certain algorithms for different options door

Closet:

Installation of the upper and lower guides, monitoring their parallelism using a plumb line.
Installation of stoppers.
Installation roller elements on the door, if this type of mechanism is planned.
The doors are inserted into the grooves, starting from the top, until they click.
Check whether the sash moves freely.
Installation additional fittings if necessary.

Swing doors:

Hinges of the selected type are installed on the doors.
If necessary, shock absorbers are installed.
The handles are screwed in.
The verticality and closing mechanism are checked.

Tilt and lift doors:

For hinged doors, gas elevators are most often installed. Purchased mechanisms are always equipped with instructions. You should read it carefully before installation. First of all, fasteners for gas elevators are installed on the side parts of the cabinet body.
Such fasteners are installed on doors that will rise.
Next, the doors are mounted using canopies or hinges on the side that will be the future axis of rotation.
Then the elevators are installed. To do this, their head must be placed on the fastener until it clicks on both sides.
With the door closed, adjustments are made.
Professionals emphasize that at least 2 mechanisms must be installed on one façade to prevent warping.

Then the final processing of the cabinet is carried out. At the end of assembly, the appearance is completely sanded. All screws are closed with decorative plugs. Polishing with a soft cloth is necessary to clean the product from dust and drilling residues. The facades are designed depending on the designer’s ideas using mirrors and other decorative elements.

You can also see how to make a cabinet with your own hands in the video below.

Organization of internal space

The functional structure of the internal filling of cabinets consists of many elements that satisfy the owner’s requirements. A competent design should provide easy access to any things in the closet and prevent the formation of odors.

Pull-out and sliding drawers, rotating shelves are not only convenient to use, but also ergonomic in nature. They allow you to rationally use the internal space. For large wardrobes, lifting rods are often used for hangers and trouser holders, which can either rise or, if necessary, go deep into the closet. If the design is intended for a hallway, then it includes a box for storing shoes and shelves for hats.

Kitchen cabinets filled with a variety of elements from rotating bar counters to retractable cutting board. Due to the fact that it is necessary to store many different utensils in the kitchen, the functionality interior decoration cabinets have many faces and are determined only by the wishes of the owners.

How to post?

The wardrobe is the most bulky interior element in the room. There are options for their location that will allow you to “hide” and not clutter up the space.

In a niche

If the apartment has natural niches, this will greatly facilitate the task. The cabinet is simply built into them. Niches can be created artificially, which will allow not only to install structures for storing things in them, but also other interior elements: a fireplace, a TV.

Part of the room

If the space allows, then you can fence off a piece of the room and organize a wardrobe in it. At the same time, it is better to choose the darkest corner of the room so that the room remains light.

Pantry

Private houses are sure to have different storage rooms. Sometimes they are found in city apartments. If the owner wishes, the cabinet can be perfectly hidden in the pantry. At the same time, the effort for its design is minimal, since the functions of the body are performed by the walls of the room. Enough to organize internal filling.

Openings. Inter-door and inter-window distances can be used rationally using modular cabinets. The structures are mounted on both sides of the opening; mezzanines can be installed above the opening. The element connecting the cabinets under the window is often designed in the form of a bench or sofa.

What can you make from an old wardrobe?

If the old cabinet has lost its appearance, but the fastening elements are intact and not loose, the cabinet also does not have significant flaws, in this case you should pay attention to various techniques that allow you to remake or decorate outdated furniture.

There are many budget options to update your cabinets:

Repaint it yourself, for example, using stencils.
You can cover the doors with photo wallpaper or vinyl film.

If the panels are glass or mirrored, then you can use the services of private workshops for matting or sandblasting.
Decoupage using vintage paper or wallpaper.
Can be used in the kitchen tiles for decoration of facades.

If the fastenings do become loose and fall out, it is impossible to keep the cabinet in its original form. In this case, elements for another design can be cut from its parts. Craftsmen create benches, shelves, poufs and other interior items.

Interior layout ideas

Large built-in wardrobes are popular. They are installed both in hallways and living rooms. Usually they occupy all the space provided from floor to ceiling. Internal content is organized depending on the wishes of the owner. Advantages - functionality, the ability to integrate various elements for storing things, including vacuum cleaners, ironing boards, washing and dishwashers. Such structures can be installed in any places inaccessible to cabinet furniture, in attics, niches, corners.

A built-in wardrobe with your own hands can be modeled in online programs that are available in the resources of large furniture manufacturers. The most popular materials for self-production of built-in furniture are:

drywall - a budget option, facilitated creation of curved wall surfaces, easy integration into the interior;
solid wood is an elite option that requires the basics of mastering a variety of tools and having them available to a home craftsman;
wood-containing boards - economical option, a wide range of colors, textures, additional materials, consumables, fittings, and individual parts.

The built-in wardrobe is very spacious and visually expands the space of the room.

The cabinet is often built from furniture panels that do not require cladding, OSB covered with kraft paper. For the complex architecture of the cabinet configuration, only plasterboard is suitable, which is bent according to templates to any shape (Fig. 1).

Example of calculation of a wardrobe

Figure 1. Drywall for the cabinet is bent to any shape using templates.

Internet resources will not only tell you how to make a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, but will also help you calculate the quantity and cost of materials, fittings, and consumables. For example, for furniture of this type with a depth of 0.6 m, a width of 1.9 m, built into the corner of a standard apartment (ceiling 2.5 m), you will need:

doors - taking into account the height adjustment gap of 45 mm, the overlap of the panels for the wardrobe is 20 mm, the thickness of the materials is 16 mm, we get the size of the plates 2439x952 mm;
two-way guides - a set of two pieces, 95 cm each;
side panel - sheet 2484x600 mm;
partition - part 2484x500 mm;
shelves - dimensions 934x500 mm;
roof - slab 1900x600 mm.

The design of the built-in wardrobe allows you to accommodate a sufficient number of things.

The front edge of all parts is treated with decorative PVC tape. In addition, you will need a hanger rod of 934 mm, a shoe net of the same length, and fasteners (32 corners, 64 hardware).

After assembly, positioners and anti-dust brushes are installed. If ready-made parts are used, the cabinet costs half as much. When designing original designs sizes are customized, so purchase sheet material- furniture board, chipboard, OSB, plywood, cutting waste is present.

Furniture requires decoration, but even in this case it turns out to be much cheaper than ready-made analogues.

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Cabinet making operations

Figure 2. Diagram of furniture panel dimensions.

The peculiarity of built-in furniture is the rationalization of space. Savings and increased strength are achieved by replacing several cabinet parts with planes load-bearing structures building:

bottom - floor covering;
roof - floor slab;
side wall - wall;
back wall - the plane of the wall.

A wardrobe without two side walls is rare, since niches are not present in all apartments. However, the savings are already significant, and in addition, the absence of these parts frees up additional work space.

The technology for self-manufacturing built-in structures consists of the following sequence of operations:

sketching/designing - a drawing, sketch, outline or a full-fledged project with visualization of the cabinet allows you to avoid errors in cutting, installation, defects, and waste of materials;
transferring the drawing to the wall is the most important stage on which the resource and cost of the furniture depend;
installation of side walls, partitions: if the cabinet has a height from slab to slab, the panels are attached to the floor, ceiling, back wall if the structure is lower, the upper part is fastened with a roof;
shelves, drawers, rods: shelves are usually mounted on special fittings(removable option) or corners (rigid fixation, adding rigidity to the structure);
doors - traditional swing designs and sliding modifications of sliding wardrobes are used.

Example 1. Drawing of a sliding wardrobe.

Self-installation swing doors into built-in furniture is much more difficult than hanging sliding panels on the guides:

if a wall is used as the side wall of the cabinet, it is impossible or very difficult to make a selection for fittings for furniture hinges;
not every House master has in its arsenal a milling cutter for making a blind hole of large diameter;
guides sliding doors They are attached with self-tapping screws, rollers are screwed to the canvases, the structure is easy to assemble.

When designing, it is important to consider the type of construction material, as most require cladding. For example, gypsum board will have to be treated with putty, painted or covered with kraft paper or self-adhesive. For furniture panels, it is sufficient to treat the front ends of the parts with PVC tape, OSB boards in most cases they are decorated completely or covered with colorless varnish (Fig. 2).

In most cases, a jigsaw is used for cutting materials, since the tool is universal for gypsum boards, wood-containing boards, and natural wood with the usual replacement of attachments.

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Wood panel product

A traditional closet has solid vertical partitions that add rigidity to the structure. In modern modifications, these partitions are replaced by profile racks, adding work space. To support the shelves, brackets are used that are fixed to the racks. The manufacturing technology of a traditional cabinet is as follows:

transferring the drawing to the walls - the thickness of the slabs used is taken into account;
profile fastening - the industry produces galvanized profiles, which ideally include furniture panels(each size has its own profile), so all that remains is to fix it according to the markings, measuring the horizontal and vertical;
assembly of the load-bearing frame - the parts are inserted into the profile, attached to it, to each other;
door installation - when installing doors, a pair of guides (aluminum or steel) and side decorative strips into which the panels fit are used;
decoration - if untreated materials are used, after assembly they are covered with roll cladding, painted, and varnished.

The built-in closet may have its own panel floor or use an existing one. flooring. In the first case, aesthetics improve, the second option is more practical, since there is more work space behind the ennobled doors.

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Installation of the structure

When choosing an oval, semicircular cabinet, the structure is difficult to make from rigid, inflexible sheets of wood-containing boards. For this purpose, gypsum board is optimally suited; it is enough to roll it on one side with a needle roller, saturate it with water through a rag, and place it in the template until completely dry. The frame of the structure is a load-bearing galvanized profile, to which sheets of plasterboard are attached on both sides.

The profile is easily attached to the surfaces of walls, ceilings, floors, and connected into rigid spatial designs, leaning only on the floor.

Figure 3. The thickness of the drywall results in a massive built-in closet structure.

It easily takes on curved shapes, so the cabinet will always be exclusive. The price of plasterboard is significantly lower than wood-containing analogues, but high-quality finishing is required, strengthening the interfaces of planes with perforated corners.

Unlike wood-containing boards, gypsum board is not a self-supporting material, therefore, after marking the walls, a metal frame for racks, shelves, and ceilings is installed. After this, it is sheathed with 12 mm plasterboard - sheets and pieces are fastened with self-tapping screws every 15-30 cm in a checkerboard pattern. In large rooms, the length of the sheets is not sufficient in height. When installing gypsum boards on a metal frame, the horizontal seams are necessarily displaced. Guides sliding doors are attached where the profile passes through the drywall. If the profile in these places is not used when creating the structure, it is additionally laid under the gypsum board sheets.

Each seam requires a technological gap; a new chamfer is made at the edges of the cut sheets. After installation, all seams are covered with sickle tape, putty, and the heads of the screws are covered with putty. Then the entire structure is covered with the finishing composition; after drying, you can glue wallpaper, textiles, craft paper, self-adhesive film, tiles, stretch PVC film. Due to the thickness of the profile, combined with the thickness of the double-sided sheathing with sheets of plasterboard, the structures turn out to be massive. However, their artistic value compensates for this shortcoming (Fig. 3).

Are there many things and pieces of furniture in your home that you can easily discard? Surely enough. However, they do not include such a piece of furniture as a wardrobe.

After all, this is where you store most of your clothes, towels and bed linen. And therefore it is almost impossible to do without it.

Of course, it is possible to replace it with cabinets and chests of drawers. But their number will be so large that the space of the room will be completely cluttered. Not everyone can afford this.

Many people live in quite small apartments ah, in which every centimeter free space must be used rationally, so do not forget that you can order modern wardrobes with delivery and assembly from our partners.

But often the cost of such important products is unreasonably high. And therefore, some people are forced to refuse to buy cabinets.

But experts are confident that a way out of this situation can be found. For example, make this product yourself.

If you are wondering how to make a cabinet with your own hands, then we recommend that you read this article. In it we will look in detail at the simplest example of assembly, which even a novice carpenter without experience can handle.

Cabinet detailing

To make the cabinet we will use a material such as chipboard. The thickness of one of its boards is 18 mm. In addition to the main material, a self-adhesive melamine edge with a thickness of about 0.5 mm will also be used. The product will be equipped with a standard sliding system for facades.

You can purchase the edge at a furniture store. It is worth noting that to construct a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, you may need a special sliding mechanism.

Most often, it is not easy to find something similar in a regular store. Then you will need to order it. However, even in this case, facade system will cost you much less than if you purchased ready product.

The cabinet that will be considered as an example has a height of 2288 mm and its width is 1166 mm.

Required tools and materials

Before you start making a cabinet, you should make sure that you have all the necessary materials and tools on hand. You can find out the number of boards and parts if you carefully examine the cabinet drawing, which is presented to your attention below.

A standard set of tools required for cabinet carpentry includes: drill, level, hammer drill, measuring tape, hammer, glue, hacksaw and fasteners.

Self-tapping screws and dowels act as connecting elements. Please note that you should select a hacksaw that is suitable for both wood and metal.

The rods that will be used for hangers must be sawn off from a single structure. Their diameter should not exceed 22 mm for the declared dimensions of the product.

If you are not confident that you can make them correctly yourself, then the best option will become purchase. You can buy them in a store that specializes in selling furniture fittings.

You can also buy pens in the store. When purchasing them, pay attention to the design. It must correspond not only to the product being manufactured, but also to the overall interior design.

Note!

Manufacturing stages

At the first stage, you need to prepare all the details. Pay attention to the photo of a do-it-yourself cabinet, which is presented below. A circular saw was used to create it, as it made it possible to cut the boards most accurately and accurately.

The second step is to prepare the edges. To glue them you need to use a regular iron and follow the instructions.

At the third stage, grinding is performed. With its help, you will get rid of any roughness that exists after cutting. To do this, you can use regular sandpaper with fine grains.

At the fourth stage, you should begin collecting boxes. An example of assembly is shown in the figure.

At the fifth stage, the entire structure is assembled.

Note!

It is worth noting that assembling the cabinet itself is no different from assembling the drawers. After all, the cabinet itself differs from the drawers only in its size.

In order to make a confirmatory tie, you will need to use a hex bit. If you don’t have one on hand, you can use an ordinary hand key. However, this will require more time to work.

Fastening the guides under the doors should be done using self-tapping screws, which have a size of 4 by 16 mm. The distance between the front edge of the bottom and the sides of the product should also be measured locally.

Be sure to make sure that the product is equipped with a high-quality system that will eliminate the possibility of cracks. This is extremely important if you plan to do corner cupboard with your own hands, since any cracks will be noticeable.

Photo of a do-it-yourself cabinet

Note!

Furnishing the home is the final step that combines all renovation and design stages. IN modern furniture several must be combined the most important qualities: operational functionality, appearance as such, compliance with the general design idea.

Coupe systems or their elements are present in almost every home. The convenience and functionality of this furniture is undeniable, and for such design styles as minimalism, urban, hi-tech, it is completely irreplaceable. The article provides comprehensive recommendations for making your own wardrobe.

Advantages

Having considered the pros and cons of this class of furniture, we will get a complete picture of modern concept wardrobe with compartment door opening system.

Advantages
Ergonomics	Standard designs require “blind” areas for opening. In coupe systems, doors move in one plane along guides when opening and closing. Significantly saved space.
Capacity	The ability to arbitrarily configure the internal space (filling), which determines the capacity. The only requirement is ergonomic feasibility.
Versatility	Fits into any interior. Various ways design and finishing allow you to install a wardrobe in the bedroom, kitchen, living room, etc.
Functionality	Inside, unlike conventional cabinets, you can store large items, household appliances. Embed various devices- ironing board, workbench, tabletop, etc.
Ideal solution for narrow spaces	For narrow aisles and corridors, a sliding wardrobe is often the only solution. Only it can be placed in such places and used comfortably.
Zoning	Double functional purpose. Using such furniture, you can easily zone a room, that is, it can also serve as a partition.
Variety of designs	No restrictions on internal content. A large number of materials for the manufacture of facades, which allows you to realize any design idea.
Using a mirror	You can install a mirror on the facade. This will improve the functionality of the room and visually expand the space.
Reliability during operation	Doors that move along guides will last much longer than doors that open on hinges.

There are significantly fewer disadvantages, but they are there:

Flaws
Failure sliding system	This only happens if you purchase a low-quality sliding system.
Need for additional lighting	If the dimensions are large, additional lighting will be required; it significantly increases operational comfort.
The need to clean the guides	Over time, the lower guides become clogged, which can interfere with the movement of the roller. Therefore, sometimes you have to clean the grooves of the guides.
The mirror gets dirty quickly	If a mirror is used in the decoration, then it will have to be washed frequently to remove stains and hand marks.
No possibility of rearrangement	When designing, dimensions are related to specific place cabinet location. Not suitable for those who like frequent rearrangements.

Varieties by shape

There are several varieties, they have structural and external differences:

built-in;
free-standing;
corner;
diagonal-angular.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Built-in

When constructing such a cabinet, there is no top, back wall and base. Only partitions are manufactured. The entire structure is screwed directly to the ceiling, walls and floor. Metal corners are used for fixation.

This is a stationary structure, and it is an invariable part of the created interior.

Standing separately

Has sides, top, bottom, back and sliding doors. This is a complete separate piece of furniture. It can be moved and is not tied to any design elements.

Angular

An excellent solution for small apartments where every meter is valuable. Repeats the shape of the corner and allows you to rationally use the space of the room.

Diagonal corner

This is a type of corner, but the facade does not follow the shape of the corner, but is made diagonal. The increased capacity of this design determines its frequent use as a dressing room.

Material used

Furniture with sliding door systems is made from a variety of materials. The table shows the main ones:

Material
	The most common and frequently used. Chipboard board, having a low price, is characterized by sufficient strength. A huge selection of textures, colors, patterns allows you to produce a façade for any design solutions. There is one, but significant, drawback - it is difficult to finely process. For this reason, mostly simple structures are made from chipboard or laminated chipboard.
	Eco-friendly material, easy to process. The variety of facade coatings is no less than that of chipboard. Practical and affordable material.
	Expensive option, but natural wood will last a long time. A magnificent decoration in any interior.

Types by design

Classification by design differences next:

built-in;
case.

Built-in . There is no need for top, bottom or sides. Their function is performed by the walls, floor and ceiling of the niche. For manufacturing, you can use plasterboard, which will reduce total costs on the product.

Corpus . The main difference from a regular cabinet is the method of opening the doors. If necessary, you can move it. Transportation (moving) without disassembly is possible. The downside is the increased consumption of materials, since the side, bottom and top walls, and the rear part are made.

Now let's take a closer look at the organization of the internal volume of the cabinet.

Design features

When designing, ergonomic and operational specifics should be taken into account.

Let's look at the main structural elements wardrobe

Door width

The choice of door size depends on factors:

Manufacturers of sliding systems are limited to certain sizes. Some systems make it possible to produce a sash up to 120 cm wide;
The width is affected by the number of internal sections. Each section must be freely accessible;
The choice is influenced by personal preferences. There are no special rules, unless it goes beyond the restrictions listed above.

The optimal width, worked out in practice, is from 600 to 900 mm. This size provides the most comfortable conditions of use.

Sliding systems

Sliding systems are classified according to two main criteria:

profile material;
principle of extension.

To manufacture the profile of the moving system, aluminum or steel is used. The material of the sliding system is selected, as a rule, the same as that used for the door frame. Steel structures cheaper, but in most cases preference is given to aluminum.

Structurally, two types of systems are produced - bottom-mounted and top-hung. In the lower-support type, the door with rollers moves along a rail. In the top-hung system, its rollers move along the upper guides.

Height

The height is arbitrary. The only limitation may be the ceilings or the small stature of the owners of the apartment/house. Structures are made from ceiling to floor, as well as smaller heights.

The standard length of the material used for the walls is 270 cm. A standard apartment has a ceiling height of 260–270 cm. Almost identical dimensions make it possible not to cut or extend structural elements.

For ceilings higher than 270 mm (if you want to have a floor-to-ceiling closet) there are two solutions. First, the sheets of material are joined to the required length. Secondly, the mezzanine is assembled. Sheets can be joined using high-precision equipment from companies specializing in such services.

Shelf depth

The depth of the shelves determines the everyday usability of the cabinet. The optimal and recommended figure is 60–70 cm. Usually in the closet there is a rod for hangers, the width of which is about 48 cm. A depth of 60 cm will completely eliminate contact between the inner surface of the door and clothes hung on hangers. Most furniture accessories (boxes, trays, etc.) have a width of 50 cm. The shelves should not be made deeper, since it will be inconvenient to get “under the wall” when placing things.

The dimensions of the premises do not always allow the installation of furniture with the maximum recommended shelf depth. But there are also restrictions on the minimum depth. The best option may be 40 cm deep. Considering that 10 cm goes under the sliding door mechanism, you can purchase small hangers 30 cm wide. As an option, installation hanging rod(bars), perpendicular to the doors and the rear wall, in this case, the width of the hangers placed is not limited.

This solution is much better than completely abandoning the installation of a cabinet, especially since even such a “narrow” design for small apartments- the ideal solution.

Length

When designing, the length of the cabinet is selected in accordance with the location of its further installation.

Height of shelves and rods

The height between shelves is 250–350 mm. The selection rule is simple: greater depth of shelves means greater distance between them, less depth means less distance. This dependence is associated with ease of access to stacks of linen located deep in the shelf (near the back wall).

When designing a mezzanine, you should take into account the size of the things intended to be stored on it. If these are suitcases, then the height of the mezzanine should be equal to the height of the suitcase, plus a small margin.

The mounting height of the hanger bar is determined by the length of the clothing placed on it. The maximum height will be equal to the longest item. Average length of typical wardrobe items:

shirts - up to 100 cm;
jackets - up to 110 cm;
long clothes - up to 130 cm;
raincoats and fur coats - up to 150 cm.

These calculations are approximate, since the length of clothing depends on height, style and other parameters.

Video:

Schemes and drawings

The diagrams show various options furniture assembly projects and technologies:

Device inside

When designing the filling of a sliding wardrobe, first of all, zoning of the internal space is done. The figure shows a universal diagram of the breakdown into storage areas for various things:

When purchasing a finished product, you will have to agree with the filling configuration proposed by the manufacturer. Self-production will allow maximum consideration of dimensions, functionality, location of various zones and much more, which will ultimately ensure maximum operational comfort.

Below is a table with examples of frequently used elements of internal filling and zoning of a sliding wardrobe with their help.

*Zoning*
	Shelves are one of the main filling elements. They can be stationary and retractable, solid and ventilated, half and full depth, etc.
	Drawers are the second most important element of the cabinet.
	Hanging rod - necessary for clothes on hangers. The material used varies, most often metal.
	Convenient storage baskets. All things are clearly visible in them, which creates a certain convenience.
	This device is called a trouser. Pants are always ironed and ready to wear.
	A bar (hanger) for storing ties is convenient to choose, does not wrinkle, and proper suspension prevents them from changing shape.
	Convenient placement of belts, as an alternative - storage on a shelf in rolls.
	Compact and convenient storage underwear.
	Placing bed linen, towels, and some clothes in piles on shelves.
	A significant part of the internal volume is allocated for storing blouses, light blazers, and short sundresses. A pipe with hangers is installed in the opening. You can make several such sections - for short and long things.
	Department for accessories - bracelets, watches, glasses, etc. It is recommended to store these items in drawers. Inside, the space can be divided into separate cells.
	Shelves for storing shoes. In the upper (mezzanine) part you can place shoes in boxes.
	Hooks, hangers, carabiners, rings and other accessories for bags.
Travel suitcases	Place rarely used (once a year during vacation) suitcases on the far (top) shelves or mezzanine.
	One of the options for bed linen. Shelf width up to 80 cm, height up to 60 cm.

Characteristics of the main filling elements:

retractable and stationary shelves. For convenient use, the distance between them is from 350 to 450 mm;
drawers. Two types - fully retractable (100%), partially retractable (80%). They can be equipped with closers that provide smooth semi-automatic closing of the drawer;
mezzanines, known as hard-to-reach shelves. Located at the top. Rarely used and bulky items are stored on them;
Barbells are needed for hangers. Mounted along the width of the cabinet;
pantographs or special “furniture elevators”. Thanks to them, clothes are stored at the required level and can be easily pulled out using a special rod. They can be electrical or mechanical;
Baskets are convenient for storing small items. Equipped with rollers and guides.

Facades

The interior content, thought out to the smallest detail, will be in sharp dissonance with poorly chosen facades. It is the facades that give the entire cabinet a special finished look. Let's consider several options for their implementation.

Mirror

A mirror visually enlarges the space and makes the room brighter. Can be whole or divided into several parts. The large weight of the mirror determines the need to select high-quality and reliable rollers. Such a facade creates additional maintenance troubles - the mirror quickly gets dirty. It will have to be wiped and washed regularly, especially if the family has small children.

A variety of finishes are used for facade mirrors - sandblasting patterns and designs, spraying of various shades (silver, emerald, gold, etc.) for glass, printing color images and much more. For safety reasons, a mirror with inside covered with shockproof (armor) film. If the mirror breaks, the pieces will not fly away.

Glass

Glass is no less popular than mirrors; facades are equipped with unbreakable ones. Mainly used frosted glass with an image. Vertical and horizontal stripes that divide the canvas into separate squares look original.

MDF and chipboard

These materials are laminated with film. The facades look massive and heavy. To install them you will need reliable roller systems. One of the advantages is a huge selection of colors, shades and patterns, texture - from matte to bright glossy.

On MDF and Chipboard facades You can apply photo printing.

These are the main types of facades used in the manufacture of sliding wardrobes. You can combine them with each other. This article contains photographs with a considerable number of original ideas for making facades.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Gluing the edge tape

After cutting all the elements, the edge tape is glued to the ends of the slab. Sequence of operations performed:

*Instructions for gluing the edge to the end of the workpieces*
	If you don’t have an assistant, you can use a simple trick. You will need a small box and a quick-release clamp. The clamp presses the board to the box, ensuring the stability of the workpiece and the convenience of gluing the edge tape.
	One side of the edge tape has an adhesive surface. Warm up to high temperature it is easy to glue to the workpiece.
	Cut the edge to the required length. Leave a margin of 1 cm at the edges. After gluing, you can cut it with ordinary scissors.
	For gluing, set the position of the iron temperature sensor to “2”.
	For safety reasons, wear left hand two gloves. There should be no pellets on the palm.
	Use the iron to move along the edge tape, and hold it with your left hand (flat).
	We move the iron in the opposite direction, at the same time using a gloved hand we firmly press (smooth) the edge tape.
	Use your hand to smooth the edge a few more times.
	Using a special roller. Iron on the edge tape and then roll it with a roller. Very comfortably.
	Cooled tape sharp knife Carefully cut off the remains from the end.
	We get a cut like this.
	We repeat the procedure for all ends of the workpiece. We measure the tape with a margin of 1 centimeter, from each edge.
	Glue it with an iron and smooth it out.
	Cut off the cooled edge. The edge on the adjacent edge has already been glued; we make the cut very carefully.
	We cut off the longitudinal remains of the protruding edge on all sides.
	Result. We glue the edges of the remaining blanks with edge tape.
	All cuts are sanded with a special whetstone. The inside of it is filled with foam rubber, the outside is filled with fine-grained abrasive.
	Grinding of cuts is done only with longitudinal movements.

The processing of the main elements is carried out similarly.

Assembly

According to the project, the details are cut out. It is better to do this operation in a workshop on a special formatting machine. After cutting and gluing the edges, we assemble the cabinet:

*Frame assembly instructions*
	To work, you will need to assemble an additional device consisting of a metal strip and two pieces of board connected at an angle. It turns out a corner with a metal guide. You will also need two quick-release clamps. Using this device it is very convenient to connect workpieces at right angles.
	We check with a square - it should be 90˚.
	Set aside 70 mm from the top edge.
	In the example, a 16 mm slab is used, therefore, it is necessary to retreat 9 mm from the edge. Why not 8 mm? Because the plate protrudes 1 mm beyond the edge, forming a small side. The middle of the end of the adjacent plate is at a distance of 9 mm.
	Drilling mark.
	A similar mark is placed below.
	Using a drill, we make holes for the fasteners.
	A special drill replaces three at once. It allows you to make the main hole, the collar and chamfer in one operation.
	Drilling.
	We tighten the confirmation with a screwdriver.
	Having secured the sidewall, we mark the installation locations for the shelves according to the design.
	Next, using a square, place marks on both sides under the holes for attaching the shelves.
	Markings along which holes for confirmations will be drilled.
	The device assembled at the beginning of work is convenient to use for fastening shelves. Using a tape measure, measure 1/2 the thickness of the slab. The thickness of the plate is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the mark.
	At this level we install the shelf using quick-release clamps.
	Here you can clearly see that the mark is in the middle of the end of the workpiece. Everything is ready for drilling.
	Let's drill.
	We tighten the confirmations.
	We install the remaining shelves in the same way.
	We install the cross member. And we fasten each shelf with confirmations.
	Having fixed the cross member quick clamp, we twist it with confirmations from above and below, then we secure each shelf.
	So it's going Bottom part wardrobe We clamp the strip from the slab with a clamp and secure it at the end with a confirmat.
	We drill shallow holes from below for installing furniture legs.
	We tighten the metal sleeve with external and internal threads.
	Using a hexagon, tighten (recess) to the required position.
	We screw the leg with the plastic support into the sleeve. Thanks to this, the furniture can be moved and leveled.
	Two parts support leg assembly.
	After assembling the cabinet, a fiberboard sheet is attached to its back side with ordinary nails.
	We start fixing the fiberboard from the top. By tilting the cabinet from side to side, we achieve a 90˚ angle between the side panel and the top bar. We nail the sides and bottom of the fiberboard sheet.
	During assembly, no such plastic furniture corners were used. Why? The use of confirmat is much more practical, since it is screwed into the slab a few centimeters and reliably connects the structure, giving it additional rigidity.
	We close the confirmation hats with a decorative cap.

Using the same operating sequence, you can assemble a wardrobe of any configuration.

Video:

Making doors

The door consists of a frame, metal guides and a roller system. You should order it from a company that professionally deals similar systems. Specialized software will calculate all elements based on given dimensions and issue a complete specification for assembly. Mirrors or slabs from other materials are cut to the size of the doors for mounting in frames.

Elements for sliding system




	Vertical posts/handles for the side parts of the door.
	Sealing rubber for the mirror.
	Self-adhesive brush to soften the impact of doors when opening/closing.


	Brackets for fixing doors in extreme positions.

The main parts for assembling the doors are made of aluminum. All metal components must be coated protective film, protecting them from scratches during transportation.

Assembling the sliding system

Let's consider step by step assembly door leaf. In our example there will be two mirror doors.

Ready wardrobe

*Door assembly instructions*
	The door is located in a horizontal position and provides free access from all sides.
	At the top vertical stand, which also serves as a door handle, drill two mounting holes.
	The lower one has a diameter of 6.5 mm.
	The top hole is 10 mm. The upper door profile and the roller will be attached through it.
	The lower part of the same vertical profile. The upper hole is 10 mm, the lower one is 6.5 mm. The distance from the edge of the first hole is 7 mm, the second is 43 mm. The lower roller will be attached closer to the edge. The second hole is for the screw connecting to the profile.
*Profile installation*	We fix the rubber seal on top with a profile, carefully inserting it.
	We perform the procedure sequentially on all faces. We do not cut off the rubber seal at the corner, but continuously lay it along the entire perimeter.
Do not tighten it all the way	This screw does not tighten completely. Later the upper rollers will be installed into it.
	Install the upper rollers and tighten the screw until it stops.
	Rubber seal installed at the bottom of the door.
*The screw with the top roller is also tightened*	At the top we attach the second pair of rollers.
	Install the lower roller. We press the spring on the roller and carefully insert it into the hole, securing it with a screw.
	The screw is tightened with a hexagon.	Wardrobe with first door installed.
	We assemble and install the second door in the same sequence.