How to extend the life of headphones. Four ways to save your lightning cable How to protect your iPhone charging with a spring

Briefly: Accuracy is the sister of talent.

Official Lightning cables fray and break - they break. We recommend that you accept it. But with desire and patience, extend the life of each. Use editorial experience website, which was multiplied by Internet opinion.

1. Scotch tape, electrical tape, etc.

To protect the wire more, instead of having two areas of potential wear, wrap the cable from end to end. And as a replacement for adhesive tape or electrical tape, use thread and other similar materials.

2. Heat shrink tube will help

To make the first method aesthetically pleasing, use heat shrink tubing. Such devices are sold in a number of sizes in hardware stores. The price is minimal - a couple of tens of rubles per set.

Place the heat shrink tube over the potential break on top. And heat with a lighter, hair dryer or iron. The polymer will shrink in size and wrap around the cable. Pick up the phone white to increase aesthetics.

3. Ballpoint pen spring and more

The silver metal spring made from a ballpoint pen looks aesthetically pleasing on the official Apple Lightning cable. But not every one will do. I advise you to visit a stationery store and take apart a couple of things to look for them.

Sugru is recommended as a replacement for this method on forms. It's like plasticine for fixing things around. Use it to seal potential cable breaks. And after drying, the substance will turn into a polymer a la rubber.

4. Careful use/carrying

Editorial members website have been using Apple devices for years. And they agree on one opinion - to prevent Lightning cables from breaking for months, carefully use and carry each one in your pocket, bag, and so on.

5. Using Apple Substitutes

I have personally used Lightning cables from third-party MFi manufacturers. I tried the “noodle” type and similar official ones in leather, fabric and metal. They didn’t wear out, but they stopped working after 5-9 months for no apparent reason.

On the forums they recommend buying a microUSB (female) to Lightning (male) adapter. And use it together with a thicker microUSB cable. This wire is cheaper and breaks less often. We haven't tried it, but we believe it.

Headphones have many vulnerable spots, since all elements of the headset are subject to mechanical stress during use. It’s not a shame to throw away an inexpensive product after it breaks down. Branded headphones will have to be repaired after a breakdown. However, it is better not to let the headset fall into disrepair. There are many ways to protect your headphones and wire from bending, and you need to use them.

Wire exit from the plug

The most vulnerable spot is the wire coming out of the plug casing. This element is also called a jack. The plug and the wire coming out of it are constantly exposed to mechanical stress, even when the headset is not working, but is simply inserted into the phone jack.

Recommendations: How to fix headphones yourself if one stops working
, How to connect broken headphone wires
, DIY headphone repair

Let's look at a few of the most common reasons:

When listening to music mobile phone usually put in a pocket. The option is not bad, but you need to place it with the plug facing up. If the jack is on the bottom, the entire weight of the phone presses on it. L-shaped plugs suffer less from this position, since the wire exits the casing from the side. For an even jack, pressing it to the bottom of a clothing pocket is detrimental. The wire at the entrance to the casing is sharply bent at an acute angle, resulting in a fracture of the copper core.
While listening to music from your phone while traveling, the headset cable is secured to your clothing with a plastic clip. In the event of a sharp turn of the head, the clamp will weaken the force of the wire jerking at the point of attachment to the plug.
Music lovers have a habit of putting the phone in their pocket after listening to music without removing the headset plug from the jack. This option is detrimental to both devices. The phone's plug and socket gradually become loose. Poor contact will cause crackling noise in the speakers and loss of sound. Finding the location of the fault will become more difficult, since the wire breaks along with the connector and plug.
Headphones deteriorate even during storage. There is a killer combination - leave the plug in the socket and wrap the wire around the phone. Such storage will kill even the most expensive and high-quality headphones within six months. The plug and the entire wire before connecting to the speakers will fail due to sharp corners at the bend. The hard case provides safe storage of the headset. The wire is wound around three fingers. The coil is obtained without sharp bends and will be safely stored in the case.
The long service life of headphones is taken care of even at the purchase stage. A headset with a straight plug is the worst design. The wire near the jack will quickly break due to sharp bends. It is better to give preference to a plug with the letter “G” or at an angle of 45°. If your favorite headphones are sold only with a straight jack, additionally buy an L-shaped adapter - an adapter.
In addition to the adapter, there are female-male adapters. A piece of cable has a plug attached to it at one end, which is inserted into the phone jack. At the other end of the wire there is a socket - an analogue of a telephone connector, where the headset jack is connected.

If the wire near the plug is broken, it is cut off, after which the jack casing is cut off and the wires are soldered to the contacts.

Speaker wire output

The second weak point after the plug is the cable exit from the headphones. Most often, the wire here does not break, but comes off from the speakers. The user is to blame for pulling the earphone out of his ear by the cable. Even if the vacuum headset is deeply buried inside the ear, remove it by holding the body with your fingers.

A wire break from the speaker contact occurs in cheap Chinese models. The wire inside the case is not secured by anything and dangles freely. The branded headset is designed differently. The cable connected to the speakers is tied in a knot before exiting the headphone body.

This creates a kind of stop that prevents the wire from breaking off the contact. However, you still cannot pull such an earphone by the wire. The core will not come off the speaker, but the cable itself will begin to stretch. Over time, a gap forms in the thinned area.

Near the entrance to the headphones, the wire is constantly suspended. Even if you don’t pull on it, over time the cable will tear the wires away from the speaker under its weight. You can ease the load by placing the wire behind the ear. In this position, no force is applied to the cable section near the entrance to the headphones.

How to disassemble headphones: instructions with step-by-step photos of repairing all elements of the headset

Bifurcation section

The headset cable leading to the speakers splits into two. The separation point is secured with a plastic or rubber stopper. In this area, similarly, there is a threat of fracture of the veins, but this happens extremely rarely.

You can protect the split with a voltage reducer, but they are only installed on expensive branded headphones. For a cheap headset, the only salvation is the clip. The area where the bifurcation begins is secured to the clothing with a clothespin.

Basic rules for using headphones

The user can protect the headset from damage if they follow a number of important rules:

Do not wash dirty tips without removing them from the headphones. Water that gets inside the case will damage the speakers.
Do not clean the plug, connector or earphone mesh with a needle or other sharp metal object.
Avoid blow-drying your hair while wearing headphones. Sudden immersion in cold has a similar negative effect. Due to the temperature difference, condensation forms inside the case, destroying the speakers.
Do not remove the plug from the phone socket without stopping the playback of the music file.
To store the headset, use a hard case, and the plug is removed from the connector of the player or phone.
The earphone is removed from the ear by the housing, and the wire is secured to the clothing with a clip.

The rules for using the headset are simple and should be followed.

How to charge wireless headphones

Two ways to improve your headset

When you buy new headphones, don’t rush to use them right away. There are two simple ways improve the headset by increasing the cable's resistance to mechanical stress.

1. The first method is aimed at protecting the input to the plug. To prevent the wire from sharply bending into a break, you will need a bandage. A stiff spring is taken from a fountain pen or children's toy and wound in coils onto the cable. Next, the bandage is lowered along the wire to the connector, where a couple of turns are screwed onto the jack casing. The defense is ready. An elastic spring will never allow the wires to bend at an angle of 90°. A similar bandage can be screwed onto the area where the wire begins to bifurcate.

Almost every user of regular headphones is familiar with the unpleasant situation when, after a month/six months/year (or more depending on the quality and cost), the headphones die out. First, the sound in one of the “ears” begins to disappear for a second, then it completely stops working and shows weak signs of life in the form of wheezing if you move the wire in the place where it comes out of the plug. This happens only because in this place the wires are subject to frequent and strong kinks while in a pocket or bag. As a result, the insulation of the cores deteriorates, and the cores themselves break. The situation is aggravated by the design of the plug, as in the first photo in this post: a straight body and a wire just coming out of it.

How to postpone this unpleasant moment? First let's look at various designs plugs to understand what manufacturers do to soften the kinks of the wire immediately after leaving the plug. Let's look at the photo:

As you can see, our experimental plug number 1 is not protected by practically anything and the wires can freely bend in the pocket at least 180°. This is facilitated by the fairly solid body of the plug, which is very difficult to bend. With such kinks, the wire is unlikely to last long.

Plug number 2 is much better at protecting the wire from kinks thanks to its curved tip and perforations, which allow it to bend more freely, protecting the wire from extreme kinks.

Plug number 3 is sold at any radio parts store. Although it is straight, it protects the wire from sharp bends with the help of a soft spring. It was he who gave me the idea of how to protect the wire coming out of the first plug. You just need to equip it with the same spring!

To do this, we disassemble the old fountain pen, take out the spring and put it on the wire. We do this not according to the principle of a spring ring on a keychain, but through the middle of the spring. It's very simple, you'll figure it out on the spot. To protect the soft wire, we additionally strengthen it with electrical tape in the place where we will put the spring on, otherwise the tip of the spring, where the rings are pressed tightly, can dangerously crush it. After the operation, remove the tape.

All that remains is to bring the spring to the plug and put it on it. In the end, everything looks more than aesthetically pleasing, and the wiring is protected from dangerously sharp bends.

I have always considered myself a very neat person and was careful with cables and gadgets in general. Despite years of use, they looked like new. I handled the cable from the iPhone 5s even more carefully, since it was very expensive, and at that time I could not replace it with another: all other Apple devices in the house were charged from the old 30-pin cable.

However, this did not save me. Exactly a year later, the insulation at the ends of the cable cracked and began to fall off in pieces. At some point, I freaked out and tore off the remnants of the white eco-friendly coating, completely exposing the metal braid of the cable. But even after this, it regularly charged and synchronized the iPhone, only occasionally giving a slight shock. I couldn’t bear to throw it in the trash, so I decided to make new insulation for the cable. After all, he deserved it.

How to make a new braid

Nowadays, fabric-braided cables are considered the most reliable, and this is not without reason (remember the old Soviet irons). The fabric fibers give the cable elasticity and do not break down over time. Ordinary threads are not suitable: they are too thin and not very strong. Knitting threads and floss are ideal for our project. They are much stronger and due to their greater thickness you won’t have to wind them for ages.

What you will need

The beauty of this method is that everything you need can be found at home. If there is no heat-shrinkable tube at hand, then, in addition to the thread itself, we will at least need any glue and scissors or a knife (or strength to tear off a piece of thread).

Thread - 3–5 meters.

Scissors or knife.

Heat-shrinkable tube - 5–10 centimeters.

Lighter or matches.

Any glue.

Choosing a thread

I’ll say right away that any knitting thread will do, even very thick ones. The main thing is that it wrinkles and can be wrapped around the cable like a ribbon. If you are lucky and your wife, mother or grandmother offers you not one, but several options, then choose based on the following criteria:

Material. Yarn happens of various compositions: natural and synthetic. Give up your hipster habits and give preference to synthetics: they are stronger, less dirty and less frayed.

Thickness. It is better to choose a medium thread thickness. It will take longer to wind a thin one, but a thick one will lie in uneven turns.

Color. It's up to you, but keep in mind that the fabric braid attracts dirt even more than the original insulation (especially natural). The beautiful white Apple-style braid runs the risk of quickly turning gray.

Preparing the cable

Before putting a new braid on the cable, it needs to be prepared. If the old insulation has broken down in only one place, it can be left. If it falls off in pieces (as in my case), then it is better to remove it completely, otherwise the turns of the thread will not fit tightly and the braid will move. Also pay attention to the condition of the screen (metal braid and foil): it often breaks near the connectors. You can restore it by tightly winding a couple of layers of ordinary thread.

Let's rewind

The winding process is quite simple, but has its own subtleties. To prevent the ball of thread from dangling and disturbing you, it is better to immediately cut off about three meters and, for convenience, wrap it around something like a matchbox.

We start from either end, right from the plastic. We tie a knot and tightly wind the thread turn to turn with a slight overlap, so that each subsequent one slightly overlaps the previous one.

To protect against kinks, we form thickenings at the edges of the braid. We wind two or three layers, gradually increasing the thickness and making a smooth descent 3–4 centimeters long, so that it looks something like in the photo. Depending on the thickness of the thread, there may be more or fewer layers. If desired, you can make it thicker. This will not be very neat, but it will be reliable.

Further - easier. From the formed thickening we simply wrap the cable along its entire length to the very end. Take your time and try to pull the thread as tightly as possible: the quality of your cable will depend on this. Remember the overlap! The coils should lie on top of each other, turning into a continuous web. Press the braid with two fingers and pull along the cable. If the coils fall apart, it means the overlap is insufficient.

We finish winding the same way we started. We wrap it up to the plastic, go back 3-4 centimeters and repeat a couple of times to make a thickening that will protect the cable from breaking. Try to lay the turns more evenly - this way the transition will be neater and stronger. There is no need to tie the free end of the thread yet.

Fastening the edges

There are two options: heat shrink and glue. I tried both and I can say that you don’t have to bother with the tubes - the glue is quite enough. I'll tell you about both, choose for yourself.

The diameter of the heat-shrinkable tube must be selected based on the thickening at the end of the cable (and vice versa). 6 and 8 mm tubes work well. Cut two pieces a couple of centimeters long and put both on the side of the Lightning connector. One will remain on it, and the second needs to be pulled through the entire cable to the other end.

Now carefully heat the inserted pieces of heat-shrinkable tubing so that they tightly fit the thickenings of the braid and its ends do not unravel. This can be done with matches, a lighter or by bringing it to the stove, but it is better to ask your wife, mother or grandmother for a hair dryer. With it, you do not risk the pipe overheating or becoming smoked (especially if it is white).

Lazy people and those who do not have heat shrink can secure the ends of the braid with glue. A bottle of regular PVA or any other can be found in every home. Saturate the thickenings at the ends with it and fix it by pressing with two fingers (you will wash your hands later). When the glue dries, it will hold the turns of our braid no worse than heat shrink. The advantage of this method is that it is suitable not only for Lightning, but also for the old 30-pin connector, which will not fit any heat shrink.

If you are not lazy and you have heat shrink, you can first coat the ends with glue, and then put heat shrink on top.

Using the described method, I brought life back to four cables and gained some experience. You will do better if you don't repeat my mistakes. Here's what you need to pay special attention to:

Too big thickenings. Don't overwork the edges of the braid or they will end up rough and ugly.

Long pieces of heat shrink. Like the previous mistake, this one will also make the cable less flexible and untidy.

Small overlap. If you make a mistake here, you will end up with not a continuous coating, but a collapsing spring made of threads.

Natural thread. Eco-friendly yarn is more likely to get dirty and become shaggy over time.

Double thread. If you use two threads different colors, the braid will be not only durable, but also beautiful.

What's the result?

In two months, such a simple and uncomplicated cable upgrade proved to be just great. It is more flexible, it is not scary to pull it or throw it in a backpack. Appearance It's also far from the sloppiest.

I repaired my Lightning, my wife’s old 30-pin cable, and then my sister’s Lightning using this method. While writing the article, I also decided to make a braid on the Mac charger, even though it is still completely new and has a whole cable. It takes a minimum of time, but brings maximum benefits.

Take half an hour and make yourself eternal cable. It's worth it!

Almost every user of regular headphones is familiar with the unpleasant situation when, after a month/six months/year (or more depending on the quality and cost), the headphones die out. This happens mainly due to the fact that the wiring in a particular one is subject to frequent and strong kinks while in a pocket or bag. Usually this is the very beginning, near the plug. As a result, the insulation of the cores deteriorates, and the cores themselves break. The situation is aggravated by the design of the plug, as in the photo above. Actually, all the tricks outlined below apply to such headphones. For example, I have a Sennheiser CX-55, but before that there were 2 pairs from Nokia with the same design.

How to postpone this unpleasant moment? First, let's look at the different plug designs to understand what manufacturers do to soften the kinks in the wire as soon as it exits the plug. Let's look at the photo:

As you can see, our experimental plug number 1 is not protected by practically anything and the wires can freely bend in the pocket at least 180°. This is facilitated by the fairly solid body of the plug, which is very difficult to bend, so it is mainly the wire that bends. With such excesses, he is unlikely to live long.

Plug number 2 protects the wire from bending much better thanks to the curved tip and perforation of the body, which allows it to bend more freely, protecting the wire from extreme bends, taking part of the bend on itself. You're lucky if you have a plug like this: your headphones will live happily ever after.

Plug number 3 is dismountable, sold at any radio parts store and attached manually. Although it is straight, it protects the wire from sharp bends with the help of a soft spring. It was he who gave me the idea of how to protect the wire coming out of the first plug. You just need to equip it with the same spring!

All that remains is to bring the spring to the plug and put it on it. In the end, everything looks more than aesthetically pleasing, and the wiring is protected from dangerously sharp bends.