Any cutting attachments for a drill become dull during operation, which, in fact, does not require proof. However, do not rush to throw them away, since you can return the nozzle to its original functionality by sharpening it. Next we will describe in detail how to do this.

When is sharpening required?

While wood drills can be used for a long time and still remain sharp, metal tools become unusable very quickly. Certainly, experienced master identifies a dull drill by eye or by its first contact with the metal surface. If you are a beginner, you can determine the need for sharpening of a tool by the following criteria:

• during the drilling process, creaking and whistling occur;
• the tool heats up much faster than usual;
• the quality of the hole is low - there are jagged and burrs;
• chips come out of only one spiral groove (this sign may also indicate improper sharpening).

Keep in mind that if you use a blunt tip you are putting yourself in danger and it may break. In this case, its flying parts can cause serious injury. In addition, the drill can “bite”. In such a situation, if the drill is powerful or you are working on a machine, the part is torn out of your hands, which often also ends in injury. Therefore, under no circumstances should you delay sharpening or replacing the tip.

Main parameters of the part

So that you can properly sharpen the tip, first of all, let's look at its main elements, which include:

• cutting part (cutting edge), formed by the convergence of the groove surface and the rear surface;
• the front surface, which is located under the cutting edge;
• back surface, which is located behind the edge:
• a bridge located between two rear surfaces.

During operation of the nozzle, the cutting edge, bridge and rear surfaces suffer the most. Therefore, the restoration of the tool occurs by sharpening the rear surfaces to which the cutting edge and the bridge are adjacent. However, not everything is so simple: in order for the edge to become sharp again and a clear bridge to form, the sharpening angles must correspond to the values ​​​​from the table:

Compliance with these values ​​will allow the cutting edge to always be the first to contact the surface of the workpiece, which will ensure maximum efficiency tool. The length of the cutting edge depends on the apex angle. Compliance with this will allow the chips to fit well into the groove and come out. If you make the angle more acute, the width of the cut strip will increase, as a result of which the chips will clog the groove and will no longer be removed from the hole with all the ensuing consequences. An angle that is too obtuse will reduce the effectiveness of the drill.

Sharpening on a sharpening machine

At home it will not be difficult to use a regular sharpening machine. The only thing is that it is desirable that the machine be equipped with a tool rest, i.e. a small platform located in front of the working surface of the sharpening disc. The distance between the tool rest and the end of the circle should be no more than one millimeter.

The optimal rotation speed of the grinding wheel is one and a half thousand revolutions per minute.

If the nozzle is very dull, i.e. the cutting edges with the rear surfaces have become asymmetrical; in order to properly sharpen the tool, it is advisable to make a simple device by following these steps:

• Draw a straight line on the tool rest at an angle of 60 degrees relative to the working surface of the abrasive disc. The line should be located opposite the working surface;
• Attach a piece of metal corner to the tool rest, aligning it along the intended line, as shown in the photo below. Those. the corner should also be located at an angle of 60 degrees in relation to the working surface of the circle. You can use a clamp to secure the corner. If you sharpen frequently, you can drill holes and secure the angle with bolts.

Thanks to this device, you can attach a drill to the back of the corner with your own hands and thus ensure a back surface angle of 60 degrees. Now that everything is ready, you can get to work. First of all, you need to install the coarse abrasive disc and turn on the machine. Then you need to pick up the drill correctly. To do this, place two fingers of your right hand on the rest, and place the tool to be sharpened on them. As a result, the fingers will serve as a support. With your left hand, grasp the shank of the tool you are sharpening. Turn the drill itself so that the cutting edge that you will sharpen is strictly horizontal.

Now place the tool with its side plane against the back of the angle and bring it with your hands to the working surface of the sharpener. The right hand should remain motionless, and the left hand, which holds the tool by the shank, should move slightly in a vertical plane, rocking the drill. Thus, sharpening should occur from the cutting edge to the end of the flank surface.

During the sharpening process, a large number of sparks, so be sure to wear safety glasses when performing this operation.

Using this pattern, make several rocking movements with your left hand up/down. There is no need to strain your hands too much, as the drill will not be pulled out, so just be careful. Having sharpened one back surface, you should rotate the drill 180 degrees with your left hand and sharpen the second back surface in the same way. Upon completion of work, make sure that the angle drill sharpening and those. The apex angle is 120 degrees, which is optimal for a metal tool. Also, make sure that the edges and backrests are symmetrical. If the tool is far from ideal, it needs to be sharpened further.

It must be said that as a result of moving the shank in a vertical plane, the rear surface is rounded. Therefore, such sharpening is called conical. It is used for drills with a diameter of more than three millimeters. Correctly sharpening a thinner metal drill is even easier - its cutting part is pressed against the plane of the sharpener and sharpened without any rocking. As a result, the back surface acquires one flat plane. Therefore, such sharpening is called single-plane. The grip of the drill during this processing is shown in the photo below.

After sharpening is completed and the tool has acquired correct form, you need to do some fine-tuning. The fact is that the surface after sharpening with a coarse abrasive is far from ideal. Therefore, you need to install a disk with fine abrasive on the machine and remove all roughness. As a result, the surface should be perfectly smooth.

It is necessary to bring the tool to be sharpened to the working surface of the sharpener smoothly so that there is no impact.

To make sure that the job is done correctly, try drilling a hole, maybe not even a deep one, and make sure that the edge is smooth and even. This is the main indicator of a sharpened tool.

Drills for wood can also be sharpened in exactly the same way. The only thing is that their angle at the apex is made more acute - 140 degrees. Accordingly, the tool is brought to the sharpener at an angle of 70 degrees.

No sharpening machine - grinder for all occasions

If you don't have sharpening machine, but at the same time you urgently need to sharpen the drill, you can use a grinder (angle grinder). But keep in mind that a sander is one of the most dangerous hand power tools. Violation of safety precautions when working with it leads to serious injuries and sometimes death. Therefore, if you have no experience working with angle grinders, it is better not to try to save money, but to buy a new attachment.

If you nevertheless decide to sharpen drills with a grinder, use exclusively an end flap wheel for these purposes. In addition, it is desirable that the grinder itself be small, i.e. low-power. The sharpening process is as follows:

1. 1. The grinder is placed on a horizontal plane with the disc up so that the disc is also horizontal. The tool must be held firmly with your left hand, and the power button should also be controlled with the same hand.
2. 2. Then the drill must be brought to the disk and sharpened, trying to maintain the factory angles. The grinder should be turned on at minimum speed.

The disadvantage of this method is that sharpening is carried out “by eye”, so if you have not sharpened metal drills before, it is better to abandon this method. Inept actions can further damage the instrument.

We use the device - when theory is not needed

The easiest way to sharpen a drill for wood or metal, which does not require any skills or knowledge from you, is to use special devices for a drill or screwdriver. The device is a nozzle with holes of different diameters.

To sharpen, you need to put the attachment on the power tool, then insert the tool into the hole corresponding to its diameter and turn it until it stops. Special grooves will fix the drill in the working position. Keep in mind that it is extremely important to position the drill correctly in the hole, as only then will the back surface be machined at the correct angle. After installing the drill, you need to turn on the power tool and wait a while until one side is sharpened. Then the tool to be sharpened must be rotated 180 degrees and the procedure repeated.

The disadvantage of the device is that there is a limitation on the diameter. The minimum diameter of a drill that can be sharpened is 3–3.5 mm, and the maximum is 10 mm. As a rule, the diameter step is 5 mm. However, for domestic purposes this is quite enough. The cost of such a device ranges from 600 to 4000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer. The most expensive products are from German manufacturer Bosch.

A few words about repairing concrete drills

All of the sharpening methods described above apply to tools for metal and wood. However, a drill with a pobedit tip can also become dull. At the same time, it behaves in the same way as a metal tool - it drills poorly, quickly overheats and produces an unpleasant high-frequency sound during operation. It must be said that the principle of sharpening Pobedit drills is approximately the same as for metal tools, however, there are some important nuances.

First of all, you need to measure the height of the cutting part of the dull tool. It makes sense to sharpen drills if the height is at least 7-10 mm. If the height is less, it will not be possible to achieve a high-quality result, so it is more profitable to purchase a new nozzle. For sharpening we need a circle with diamond coating. Please note that the carbide tip does not tolerate high temperatures. Therefore, it is necessary to work at minimum speed.

To sharpen a carbide drill correctly, you first need to correct the edges of the tip, which are the first to “lick off” when working on concrete. The corners of the soldering edges must be even, i.e. at 90 degrees. Then the back surfaces are sharpened to the soldering point, as shown in the photo above. If the carbide tip has worn down to the steel, it is necessary to sharpen the front part. Otherwise, the soft steel will come to the surface of the cutting edge, and accordingly, in this case, no efficiency and quality of drilling will be achieved from the tool.

To sharpen a Pobedit drill without overheating it, use a coolant during work - water or machine oil.

As with any other drill, be sure to ensure symmetry. The cutting sides must be the same size. If the center of the axis moves, the effectiveness of the tool will decrease, in addition, the holes will be uneven. There is also one more important rule– the harder the tip, the sharper the apex angle should be. For pobedite soldering, this angle should be 170 degrees.

That, in fact, is all you need to know to sharpen drills yourself.

I admit, sharpening a tool has always caused me quiet horror. You need to think not only about the rotating sharpening stone, which is a source of potential danger, but also maintain the sharpening angle... I think the article will be useful for beginning brainiacs, and I kindly ask experienced comrades to supplement the information below or tell us about your method of maintaining the sharpening angle .

Materials

• Wooden block;
• Screw.

Tools

• Protractor;
• Malka (device) - carpentry and locksmith tool for marking and measuring angles, drawing parallel lines. Consists of two parts, fastened together with a clamping screw. The thicker part (block - base) is pressed against the workpiece, markings are made along the thin part (ruler). Sometimes a scale for measuring angles is applied between the two parts of the fish. Large fry can be used for construction work;
• Drill with wood drill;
• Screwdriver.

Step 1: 59 degrees

Draw two straight lines on paper at an angle of 59 degrees. The goal is to sharpen the drill at this angle.

Step 2: Mark the corner on the block

Using a small tool, transfer the angle of 59 degrees to wooden block. I used hardwood as a blank. The thickness of the bar is 15 mm. The guide will be a screw with a fine thread pitch for a slotted screwdriver, so the through hole should be slightly smaller in diameter than the diameter of the screw so that it is screwed tightly into the block. Drilling into wood with a drill is easier when you start drilling at an angle. We determine by eye the place where it is most convenient to place the screw.

Step 3: Screw in and check the angle

We screw the screw into the block. You should determine in advance the maximum diameter of the drill that will be sharpened. For this crafts the drill diameter will be greater than 15 mm. Therefore, you should choose a screw of sufficient length so that it passes through the block and protrudes halfway from its maximum length. larger diameter sharpened drill.

If the angle at which the screw exits the block does not match the reference line, drill another hole and try again.

Step 4: Use a reference

Turn the screw a few turns so that the end of the thread is above the center of the drill.

Once you have sharpened one side (using the threads of the screw as marks), turn the drill bit halfway and look at the marks on the screw. Repeat the operation for the other side of the drill.

Step 5: Sharpening

As for sharpening drills, the website provides a detailed article. In addition to the material presented in it, I suggest watching the video of the English-speaking Kulibin.

Thank you for your attention)

The fact that during operation a metal drill has the unpleasant property of becoming duller does not require special proof. Moreover, this happens the faster the more often the drill is in use and the greater the amount of work it performs.

A metal drill becomes dull after short use and requires sharpening.

Many people do not pay attention to this and continue working until the drill has completely become unusable, after which they throw it away and buy a new one. This happens because the owners simply do not know how to work with metal. Meanwhile, this can be done at home, using the devices and tools available in almost every home workshop.

Signs of a dull drill

If a sharp squeak is heard when the drill comes into contact with the metal, it means the drill is dull.

You can only drill into metal with a very sharp tool. If at the beginning of drilling you hear a sharp creak at the point of contact between the tool and the metal, then this is a sure sign that the drill is dull. If you hear such a nasty sound, it is better to stop working. Otherwise, the tool, as it rotates, will rub against the metal more strongly and, accordingly, generate more heat during the drilling process. The working edge of the drill will wear out faster due to friction and heat.

Home craftsmen mostly use small drills for their needs, Ø no more than 16 mm. To sharpen a dull tool, it is better to use special equipment. But it is quite expensive, so it is rarely purchased for home use. But in any home workshop you can construct a sharpening device from the tools at hand. Sharpening can be done using:

• a grinding machine with an abrasive wheel;
• grinding machine;
• electric drills with replaceable attachments.

You can use any other sharpening device that you can place a sharpening stone on and make it rotate. It is only necessary that such a device can provide a shaft rotation speed of up to 1500 rpm.

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Preparing for work

For your safety, when sharpening a drill, use protective gloves and glasses.

But before you start working, you need to put on safety glasses and gloves and prepare a container of water. These are mandatory protective devices, without which sharpening metal tools is very dangerous.

During operation, sparks and microscopic metal dust particles fly off from the sharpener and tool and scatter in different directions. If you do not protect your hands and face, these microscopic particles can cut quite sensitively on exposed skin. But they pose a particular danger to unprotected eyes. Once metal dust particles get into them, they cause serious problems with vision, up to its complete loss.

A container of water is needed to cool the tool being sharpened, because during sharpening it becomes very hot from friction against the rotating plane of the circle. If the drill is not cooled in time, it will inevitably overheat and will quickly break during operation.

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Sharpening technique and sequence

But prepared tools and protective equipment are only half the battle. You can't take on a job without knowing how. After all, this process, although simple, requires strict adherence to the sharpening sequence. It is also very important to initially correctly decide on the type of sharpening. The type is determined by the shape that needs to be given to the cutting edges (“feathers”) of the tool. There are single-plane, double-plane, conical, cylindrical and screw types of sharpening.

To determine whether a drill is sharpened correctly or incorrectly, you need to carefully examine it after sharpening. The factors for properly sharpening a drill are as follows: it must remain symmetrical about its axis. Its cutting edges must have the same length relative to the axis of the drill and the same sharpening angles.

Sharpening always starts from the back surface of the drill. The surface must be pressed tightly against the grinding wheel, maintaining the initially specified angle throughout the process. Without the skills, it is very difficult to do everything correctly the first time, so be prepared to have to do several approaches. After each approach, you should carefully inspect the surface being sharpened. Work continues until the back surface looks like a regular cone when viewed from the side, at eye level.

Only after achieving the desired result can you begin to sharpen the cutting part. When performing it, you need to strive to ensure that both “feathers” are sharpened absolutely identically. It is also very important to maintain correct angle sharpening.

With single-plane sharpening, the back surface is processed as one plane, maintaining an angle in the range of 28-30 °. This is one of the most simple ways, which is used for thin instruments with a diameter of up to 3 mm.

When performing work in this way, the drill is pressed at a given angle to the grinding wheel. While sharpening, the tool does not turn over and moves. This often leads to the fact that the cutting edges of the drill may crumble, especially if the metal is of low quality.

It is preferable to sharpen the cutting part of larger diameter drills conically. This is a more complex method, and if for some reason you value the sharpened tool, then first it is better to practice on some broken surface to “get” your hand.

The technique of this method is as follows: with the left hand the instrument is grasped working part, and with the right one - by the tail. You need to keep the working part as close to the intake cone as possible, otherwise high-quality sharpening will not work. In this position, the drill is pressed not only by the cutting edge, but also by the surface of the rear part against the end of the sharpener. Holding by the ponytail right hand the drill is rocked slowly and smoothly to form a conical surface on the back edge of the drill. After finishing sharpening one feather, the instrument is turned to the other sharpener, and everything is repeated all over again. Very important nuance for this method: the drill should never be removed from the sharpener while sharpening the pen.

There is another conical sharpening technique. The drill is also taken by the working part with the left hand, and by the tail with the right hand. But the drill is pressed to the end of the sharpener only by the cutting edge, and then during operation, without lifting it from the sharpener, the tool smoothly rotates around its axis, achieving uniform and high-quality sharpening of the back surface.

With this method of sharpening, a cone will be obtained on both sides on the back surface of the pen, but the drill will remain without a ground corner. Therefore, during operation, such a drill will rub more against the metal and, accordingly, heat up more.

Metal drills are always hardened, but the products may become dull over time. Naturally, this is not a reason to throw them away. If you wish, you can sharpen the drill yourself using professional equipment or homemade devices.

Main types of sharpening

Experienced craftsmen know that sharpening a drill for metal can be different. depending on diameter and application features.

• Single-plane sharpening is intended for drills with maximum diameter in 3 mm. During the work process, it is possible that the edges may “paint”, so you need to be very careful. To properly sharpen the product, it should be applied to the circle and moved parallel to the surface.
• The conical procedure is intended for larger metal cutting tools. In this case, the tool must be held with both hands, performing sequential sharpening.
• Finishing is carried out after finishing sharpening. Thanks to this procedure, it is possible to polish cutting edge and eliminate even the smallest nicks.

To sharpen a drill with your own hands correctly, you need to use the appropriate machines. Similar devices are divided into 2 groups.

If you are interested in the question of how to sharpen a drill for metal, then be sure to purchase the appropriate machine. Suitable for home use inexpensive model with average power. It will allow you to sharpen small drills for metal.

Naturally, when purchasing you need pay attention to the noise level, as well as the design of the model. The best option It will become a simple machine, because it will not be difficult to select the necessary parts for it.

It is necessary to buy such devices only in specialized places, since the kit includes technical passport. Moreover, you will be given a warranty card.

Using machines at home

As mentioned earlier, it is advisable to use household machines at home. With their help it is possible to sharpen different kinds drills It is important to remember that for some varieties you will have to purchase the appropriate circles.

To sharpen a drill yourself, you should give preference to a machine equipped with a universal chuck. It allows you to clamp elements of various diameters.

Often included are:

• keys;
• collets;
• spare parts;
• lamp for the work area.

The most popular equipment is from Drill Doctor and GS. Similar products are designed for sharpening drills with a diameter of 2–13 mm and 14–34 mm. Unfortunately, this equipment does not allow you to sharpen too much thin drills. For this purpose you will have to purchase a special machine.

All equipment designed for sharpening drills at home, has a number of advantages:

• possibility of working from the mains;
• high performance;
• ease of use;
• functionality;
• sharpening accuracy;
• affordable price;
• compact dimensions;
• light weight;
• convenient control system, thanks to which you can adjust the intensity of sharpening and its speed.

Homemade sharpening devices

If you do not have the appropriate machine, you can sharpen it using other devices. We are talking about an electric drill or homemade equipment, created according to the drawing. It's best to give preference to the second option, otherwise you may ruin a lot of drills before you master proper sharpening.

You can even create a suitable device with your own hands from wood. So, a beam with holes corresponding to drill diameter. The holes mentioned above are made at a slight angle to obtain the required sharpening angle.

Some craftsmen prefer an electric drill equipped with appropriate attachments. Naturally, the range of similar items is small, which makes it difficult to do the sharpening yourself. As a rule, a stone and a leash are included with the nozzles. If you plan to sharpen drill bits using a specific drill, you should immediately shorten the driver.

If you wish, you can make a similar attachment for a drill yourself, following the recommendations given in the corresponding video. Such devices must be equipped with fasteners for fixing the drill.

Features of the sharpening process

If this is your first time deciding to sharpen a part with your own hands, perform work in strict sequence.

1. The back surface is treated first. So, press the drill tightly and constantly make sure that the sharpening angle remains the same. As a result of processing, the tip of the drill will resemble a regular cone.
2. Next comes the turn of the cutting part.
3. The last stage involves finishing the back surface. In this case, you must make sure that the size of the jumper is no more than 0.4 mm. Naturally, for a large metal drill, this parameter should be slightly larger.

If something doesn't work out right the first time, don't despair. It's best to start practicing with tools that you're unlikely to need. The main thing is to learn how to apply pressure correctly and maintain the angle. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the side parts of the drill, and not the tip, are responsible for drilling. Accordingly, the edges must be sharpened.

It is important to remember that during the sharpening process small particles are formed. Due to heating, they fly away in the form of sparks. It is for this reason that safety precautions must be followed. We are talking about using safety glasses and gloves. Also, when sharpening, you should make sure that the drill is securely fixed. Otherwise, it may accidentally fall out of your hands.

If you decide to use an appropriate machine for sharpening, be sure to prepare workplace. In particular, we're talking about about good lighting. Also need wear protective gloves and goggles.

To properly sharpen a drill with your own hands, you need use suitable equipment. This can be a household or industrial machine, as well as an electric drill with special nozzle. If you haven't tried sharpening a drill before, check out the corresponding video first.

If you constantly deal with sharpening hard workpieces, the surface of the drill will very quickly become unusable. It will become dull, become very hot and eventually lose its former strength. All this is a consequence of “letting go” of the metal. That is why such a tool needs periodic sharpening using special devices.

How to make homemade devices for sharpening drills, what templates exist for this and what you need to prepare for work, you will learn from our article.

Features of sharpening drills

Drills are inexpensive devices, especially if we talk about those that are widely used for household needs. However, if possible, then after they become dull, it is better to sharpen the tools than to buy new ones.

There are factory-made devices designed for sharpening, but buying them will cost you a lot, and this will not make up for the savings from not purchasing new tools. That is why many craftsmen collect machines for sharpening with your own hands.

It is worth noting that dulling applies to metal drills, since wood tools are practically not susceptible to this, except when used at high speeds with resinous workpieces. Also cannot be sharpened pobedit tips for stone or concrete.

But many people sharpen drills for metal using all additional accessories with your own hands, but the accuracy of such work is far from always ideal, so it is advisable to use at least a minimum of mechanics.

How to properly make a tool for sharpening drills with your own hands: training video

To make such a device yourself, you will need a control tool (template). No matter how the drill is sharpened, the accuracy is checked with a special template.

Simple ferrous metal drills have an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If the metal is different, then the sharpening angles will also be different:

You can prepare immediately several templates depending on the listed values ​​and, in accordance with them, sharpen with your own hands. The same drill can be used for different types workpieces, you just need to change the angles of the top of the workplace.

A simple but very convenient pulling device is bushings different sizes , which are attached to the base. You can make them yourself, based on special drawings. Remember that the tool should not be loose in the sleeve, and the quality of drilling may deteriorate even if the error is only one degree.

You can make a large clip based on aluminum or copper tubes depending on the standard parameters of the drills, or take a block of soft material and make many holes in it. It is very important to place a convenient support in the sharpener, thanks to which you can move the sharpening device at the desired angle and hold the stop.

The listed sharpening devices have been manufactured for many decades in a row and are still in demand. To assemble the sharpening machine With your own hands, you can take an oak block instead of a corner.

The simplest sharpening machine can be assembled by simply installing a workbench or table opposite the side of the emery. Even such a simple device ensures high quality and accuracy of work.

Features of sharpening on a simple device

You can find it on the Internet ready-made drawings devices for sharpening drills, or sketch them yourself, but for this you need to understand the principle of working with a drill.

During work Absolutely forbidden allow the drill to move around its axis. If it turns at least a millimeter, it will be damaged, and you will have to grind off a small distance to re-process it.

After finishing the work, the drill should cool down, also take measurements using templates. The edges must be perfectly symmetrical down to tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important if the drill has a minimum diameter.

Sharpening may be accompanied by the following errors:

How to use improvised means with your own hands assemble a twist drill sharpening machine for metal?

For the base of the device, you can take any grinder, which is able to work properly, there is no axle runout, and it maintains speed under load.

The task looks like this:

• the tool rest must stand strictly horizontally on the same axis with the rotation of the emery;
• the design must be safe, reliable and durable;
• it should be possible to sharpen both manually and semi-automatically;
• the shape of the tool rest should facilitate the free lowering of the drill shank to the desired angle.

No specific parts are required to make this device; almost everyone has everything they need home handyman. Workpieces are processed Bulgarian, welding or sharpener.

For semi-automatic mode, a swing stop is assumed, so you need to make a loop connection. Choose exactly for no backlash bolt, bracket and tube holes.

The platform must move By vertical axis so that you can change the sharpening angle of the drill. This axis can be fixed, and the tool rest should swing, while resting on the horizontal axis, which, when sharpening, provides the necessary articulation.

Support plate made of metal 4 mm thick, and the main parts of the structure should have a thickness of 3 mm, respectively. This ensures its high strength. The tool rest is rigidly connected to the emery body. It cannot be attached to the protective casing, so screw the bracket using the metal “cheek”.

Then we screw the guide plate itself for drills with a thickness of 5 mm to the support plate. In it, to fix the drill during processing, sawing triangular groove.

The design has a rotation angle of 90 degrees, which allows for point using different methods. Starting from the Leontiev method and ending with pressing at a certain angle and creating an acute angle of the edge due to the curvature of the sandpaper.

During processing, the drill will not only stand firmly in the groove, it can also be fed along the groove to the abrasive, and the sharpening angle will not deviate. Due to the partial excess of the plane of the support plate above the axis of movement of the disk, it is possible to achieve the desired shape of sharpening the back of the edge.

Before performing work, the drill should press against the plate and align the cutting edge parallel to it. The adjustment is now complete and you can bring the tool to the sandpaper. Sharpening must be done slowly and carefully, carefully monitoring the angle.

Thanks to this homemade tool, it is possible to achieve high accuracy sharpening and practically no template is needed. True, it will take time to install the machine and adjust the angle, but then you quickly and easily sharpen drills in the right quantity.

But if you need to sharpen a drill equipped with a carbide attachment, you can attach a swinging plate to a fixed angle. To do this, place several washers under the axle nut.

Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

For universal sharpening work, white wheels based on electrocorundum are mainly used. They are used for sharpening shovels, axes, knives and metal workpieces.

For the purpose of processing carbide drills or high-speed metals, you need to take abrasive green wheels based on silicon carbide marked 64C. But under household needs A wheel grit of 25N is sufficient.

Sharpening drills requires a finer fraction in the area from 8H to 16H. Remember that silicon carbide-based abrasives get very hot during operation, so the drill cannot be kept in contact with such abrasive for a long time. Let the metal cool down after 2-3 approaches and cool it in soda water.

Edge quality depends on direction abrasive rotation. Its working surface must run over the cut (go from top to bottom).

Peripheral emery surface when processing it must be smooth. It can be adjusted with a CBN-based nozzle. If the disk has a small diameter, it is permissible to use pliers in which the CBN cutter will be held.

So, we looked at how at home you can assemble and use devices of varying complexity for sharpening drills and more. Choose suitable option you can depending on your household needs.